Misplaced Pages

#541458

126-454: Gabrielle Bonheur " Coco " Chanel ( / ʃ ə ˈ n ɛ l / shə- NEL , French: [ɡabʁijɛl bɔnœʁ kɔko ʃanɛl] ; 19 August 1883 – 10 January 1971) was a French fashion designer and businesswoman . The founder and namesake of the Chanel brand, she was credited in the post- World War I era with popularising a sporty, casual chic as the feminine standard of style. She

252-522: A revival in interest in traditional Han clothing has led to interest in haute couture clothing with historical Chinese details, particularly around Chinese New Year . Fashion in the Soviet Union largely followed general trends of the Western world. However, the state's socialist ideology consistently moderated and influenced these trends. In addition, shortages of consumer goods meant that

378-526: A Christian French businessman and industrialist. At war's end, Amiot returned Parfums Chanel to the hands of the Wertheimers. During the period directly following the end of World War II, the business world watched with interest and some apprehension the ongoing legal wrestle for control of Parfums Chanel . Interested parties in the proceedings were cognizant that Chanel's Nazi affiliations during wartime, if made public knowledge, would seriously threaten

504-482: A Nazi agent who defected to the British Secret Service in 1944, recalled a meeting he had with Dincklage in early 1943, in which the baron had suggested including Lombardi as a courier. Dincklage purportedly said, The Abwehr had first to bring to France a young Italian woman [Lombardi, who] Coco Chanel was attached to because of her lesbian vices Fashion design Fashion designers work in

630-630: A Nazi spy. After the liberation, she was known to have been interviewed in Paris by Malcolm Muggeridge , who at the time was an officer in British military intelligence, about her relationship with the Nazis during the occupation of France. In late 2014, French intelligence agencies declassified and released documents confirming Coco Chanel's role with Germany in World War II. Working as a spy, Chanel

756-483: A boutique in Deauville , financed by Arthur Capel, where she introduced deluxe casual clothing suitable for leisure and sport. The fashions were constructed from humble fabrics such as jersey and tricot , at the time primarily used for men's underwear. The location was a prime one, in the center of town on a fashionable street. Here Chanel sold hats, jackets, sweaters, and the marinière , the sailor blouse. Chanel had

882-470: A cohesive design. When a designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile (or muslin), they will consult a professional pattern maker who will then create the finished, working version of the pattern out of cardboard or using a computer program. Finally, a sample garment is made up and tested on a model to make sure it is an operational outfit. Fashion design is expressive, the designers create art that may be functional or non-functional. Technology

1008-538: A commune in the French Revolution in 1790 through the dismantling of the parish of Cornil but it lacked Vital records until 1 March 1792. Aubazines , formerly written Obazine , has its origin in the foundation of a monastery by Étienne de Vielzot in the 12th century. The monastery was affiliated shortly after to the Cistercian order. Very soon an associated convent of nuns was established in

1134-588: A competitor and to wreak vengeance on a woman. The queers want to be women—but they are lousy women. They are charming! Coinciding with her introduction to the duke was her introduction, again through Lombardi, to Lombardi's cousin, the Prince of Wales, Edward VIII. The prince allegedly was smitten with Chanel and pursued her in spite of her involvement with the Duke of Westminster . Gossip had it that he visited Chanel in her apartment and requested that she call him "David",

1260-405: A corporate entity, Parfums Chanel , and the Wertheimers agreed to provide full financing for the production, marketing, and distribution of Chanel No. 5. The Wertheimers would receive seventy per cent of the profits, and Théophile Bader twenty per cent. For ten per cent of the stock, Chanel licensed her name to Parfums Chanel and withdrew from involvement in business operations. Later, unhappy with

1386-631: A dance-opera; Orphée and Oedipe Roi . In 1922, at the Longchamps races, Théophile Bader , founder of the Paris Galeries Lafayette , introduced Chanel to businessman Pierre Wertheimer . Bader was interested in selling Chanel No. 5 in his department store. In 1924, Chanel made an agreement with the Wertheimer brothers, Pierre and Paul, directors since 1917 of the eminent perfume and cosmetics house Bourjois . They created

SECTION 10

#1732772770542

1512-401: A dislike for Hollywood's film business and a distaste for the film world's culture, which she called "infantile". Chanel's verdict was that "Hollywood is the capital of bad taste ... and it is vulgar." Ultimately, her design aesthetic did not translate well to film. The New Yorker speculated that Chanel left Hollywood because "they told her her dresses weren't sensational enough. She made

1638-596: A fashion boutique , featuring clothing, hats, and accessories, later expanded to offer jewellery and fragrances. By 1927, Chanel owned five properties on the rue Cambon, buildings numbered 23 to 31. In the spring of 1920, Chanel was introduced to the Russian composer Igor Stravinsky by Sergei Diaghilev , impresario of the Ballets Russes . During the summer, Chanel discovered that the Stravinsky family sought

1764-465: A friendship of shared interests and confidences. They also shared drug use. By 1935, Chanel had become a habitual drug user, injecting herself with morphine on a daily basis: a habit she maintained to the end of her life. According to Chandler Burr 's The Emperor of Scent , Luca Turin related an apocryphal story in circulation that Chanel was "called Coco because she threw the most fabulous cocaine parties in Paris". The writer Colette , who moved in

1890-416: A garment by creating visual interest for consumers. Fashion designers work in various ways, some start with a vision in their head and later move into drawing it on paper or on a computer, while others go directly into draping fabric onto a dress form, also known as a mannequin. The design process is unique to the designer and it is rather intriguing to see the various steps that go into the process. Designing

2016-433: A garment starts with patternmaking . The process begins with creating a sloper or base pattern. The sloper will fit the size of the model a designer is working with or a base can be made by utilizing standard size charting. Three major manipulations within patternmaking include dart manipulation, contouring, and added fullness. Dart manipulation allows for a dart to be moved on a garment in various places but does not change

2142-492: A home in London's prestigious Mayfair district. His affair with Chanel lasted ten years. The duke, an outspoken antisemite , intensified Chanel's inherent antipathy toward Jews. He shared with her an expressed homophobia . In 1946, Chanel was quoted by her friend and confidant, Paul Morand , Homosexuals? ... I have seen young women ruined by these awful queers: drugs, divorce, scandal. They will use any means to destroy

2268-461: A lady look like a lady. Hollywood wants a lady to look like two ladies." Chanel went on to design the costumes for several French films, including Jean Renoir 's 1939 film La Règle du jeu , in which she was credited as La Maison Chanel . Chanel introduced the left-wing Renoir to Luchino Visconti , aware that the shy Italian hoped to work in film. Renoir was favourably impressed by Visconti and brought him in to work on his next film project. Chanel

2394-496: A large percentage of luxury designers and brands. Fashion today is a global industry, and most major countries have a fashion industry. Seven countries have established an international reputation in fashion: the United States , France , Italy , United Kingdom , Japan , Germany and Belgium . The "big four" fashion capitals of the fashion industry are New York City , Paris , Milan , and London . The United States

2520-504: A more casual style, reflecting the athletic , health-conscious lifestyles of the suburban and urban middle classes. The annual Met Gala ceremony in Manhattan is widely regarded as the world's most prestigious haute couture fashion event and is a venue where fashion designers and their creations are celebrated. Social media is also a place where fashion is presented most often. Some influencers are paid huge amounts of money to promote

2646-407: A mutual accommodation, renegotiating the original 1924 contract. On 17 May 1947, Chanel received wartime profits from the sale of Chanel No. 5, an amount equivalent to some US$ 12 million in 2022 valuation. Her future share would be two per cent of all Chanel No. 5 sales worldwide (projected to gross her $ 34 million a year as of 2022), making her one of the richest women in the world at the time

SECTION 20

#1732772770542

2772-583: A one-room lodging in the town of Brive-la-Gaillarde . When Gabrielle was 11, Jeanne died at the age of 32. The children did not attend school. Her father sent his two sons to work as farm labourers and sent his three daughters to the convent of Aubazine , which ran an orphanage. Its religious order, the Congregation of the Sacred Heart of Mary, was "founded to care for the poor and rejected, including running homes for abandoned and orphaned girls". It

2898-670: A part of a design team. Freelance designers who work for themselves sell their designs to fashion houses, directly to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. There are quite a few fashion designers who choose to set up their labels, which offers them full control over their designs. Others are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-end fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-end fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men's, women's, and children's fashions for

3024-414: A period known as Fashion Week . This takes place on a citywide basis and occurs twice a year. The main seasons of Fashion Week include; spring/summer, fall/winter, resort, swim, and bridal. Half-way garments are an alternative to ready-to-wear, "off-the-peg", or prêt-à-porter fashion. Half-way garments are intentionally unfinished pieces of clothing that encourage co-design between the "primary designer" of

3150-497: A place to live, having left the Russian Soviet Republic after the war. She invited them to her new home, Bel Respiro , in the Paris suburb of Garches , until they could find a suitable residence. They arrived at Bel Respiro during the second week of September and remained until May 1921. She developed a romantic relationship with Igor Stravinsky during this time, but the affair was brief. Chanel also guaranteed

3276-599: A privilege reserved only for his closest friends and family. Years later, Diana Vreeland , editor of Vogue , would insist that "the passionate, focused and fiercely-independent Chanel, a virtual tour de force", and the Prince "had a great romantic moment together". In 1927, the Duke of Westminster gave Chanel a parcel of land he had purchased in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin on the French Riviera. Chanel built

3402-1226: A product or clothing item, where the business hopes many viewers will buy the product off the back of the advertisement. Instagram is the most popular platform for advertising, but Facebook, Snapchat, Twitter and other platforms are also used. In New York, the LGBT fashion design community contributes very significantly to promulgating fashion trends, and drag celebrities have developed a profound influence upon New York Fashion Week . Prominent American brands and designers include Calvin Klein , Ralph Lauren , Coach , Nike , Vans , Marc Jacobs , Tommy Hilfiger , DKNY , Tom Ford , Caswell-Massey , Michael Kors , Levi Strauss and Co. , Estée Lauder , Revlon , Kate Spade , Alexander Wang , Vera Wang , Victoria's Secret , Tiffany and Co. , Converse , Oscar de la Renta , John Varvatos , Anna Sui , Prabal Gurung , Bill Blass , Halston , Carhartt , Brooks Brothers , Stuart Weitzman , Diane von Furstenberg , J. Crew , American Eagle Outfitters , Steve Madden , Abercrombie and Fitch , Juicy Couture , Thom Browne , Guess , Supreme , and The Timberland Company . In

3528-543: A season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their versions of the original look. To save money and time, they use cheaper fabrics and simpler production techniques which can easily be done by machines. The end product can, therefore, be sold much more cheaply. There is a type of design called "kutch" originated from the German word kitschig , meaning "trashy" or "not aesthetically pleasing". Kitsch can also refer to "wearing or displaying something that

3654-554: A significant movement, as it informed the large cities, such as Mexico City, of European fashions. This encouraged the founding of department stores, changing the existent pace of fashion. With access to European fashion and dress, those with high social status relied on adopting those elements to distinguish themselves from the rest. Juana Catarina Romero was a successful entrepreneur and pioneer in this movement. Aubazine Aubazines ( French pronunciation: [obazin] ; Occitan : Obasina ), also spelled Aubazine ,

3780-486: A stigma on Chinese brands. Due to government censorship, Chinese citizens were only able to access fashion magazines in the 1990s. However, as more and more Chinese designers matriculate from the world's top fashion schools, Chinese designers such as Shushu/Tong and Rui Zhou have made their way into the world's top fashion weeks, and Shanghai has become a fashion hub in China. In the early 2020s, Gen Z shoppers pioneered

3906-402: A tantalising proposition. For the sum of a million dollars (approximately US$ 75 million today), he would bring her to Hollywood twice a year to design costumes for his stars. Chanel accepted the offer. Accompanying her on her first trip to Hollywood was her friend, Misia Sert. En route to California from New York, travelling in a white train carriage luxuriously outfitted for her use, Chanel

Coco Chanel - Misplaced Pages Continue

4032-479: A variety of ways when designing their pieces and accessories such as rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings. Due to the time required to put a garment out on the market, designers must anticipate changes to consumer desires . Fashion designers are responsible for creating looks for individual garments, involving shape, color, fabric, trimming, and more. Fashion designers attempt to design clothes that are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. They consider who

4158-435: A villa here, which she called La Pausa ('restful pause'), hiring the architect Robert Streitz. Streitz's concept for the staircase and patio contained design elements inspired by Aubazine , the orphanage where Chanel spent her youth. When asked why she did not marry the Duke of Westminster, she is supposed to have said: "There have been several Duchesses of Westminster. There is only one Chanel." During Chanel's affair with

4284-488: A weakness for unconventional schemes, devised a plan to get Britain to consider a separate peace to be negotiated by the SS. When interrogated by British intelligence at the war's end, Schellenberg maintained that Chanel was "a person who knew Churchill sufficiently to undertake political negotiations with him". For this mission, code-named Operation Modellhut , they also recruited Vera Bate Lombardi. Count Joseph von Ledebur-Wicheln,

4410-755: A year in February and September. Milan Fashion week puts fashion in the spotlight and celebrates it in the heart of Milan with fashion lovers, buyers and media. Most Japanese fashion houses are in Tokyo which is home to Tokyo Fashion Week , Asia's largest fashion week. The Japanese look is loose and unstructured (often resulting from complicated cutting), colors tend to the sombre and subtle, and richly textured fabrics. Famous Japanese designers include Kenzo Takada , Issey Miyake , Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo . Chinese clothing has historically been associated with lower quality both inside and outside China, leading to

4536-421: A young French ex-cavalry officer and textile heir, Étienne Balsan . At the age of twenty-three, Chanel became Balsan's mistress, supplanting the courtesan Émilienne d'Alençon as his new favourite. For the next three years, she lived with him in his château Royallieu near Compiègne , an area known for its wooded equestrian paths and the hunting life. It was a lifestyle of self-indulgence. Balsan's wealth allowed

4662-471: Is "the study and knowledge of the practical, especially industrial, use of scientific discoveries". Technology within fashion has broadened the industry and allowed for faster production processes. Over the years, there has been an increase in the use of technology within Fashion Design as it offers new platforms for creativity. Technology is constantly changing and there have been innovations within

4788-567: Is 7,820 based on employment. The lowest employment is within Apparel Knitting Mills at .46% of the industry employed, which averages to 30 workers within the specific specialty. In 2016, 23,800 people were counted as fashion designers in the United States. Geographically, the largest employment state of Fashion designers is New York with an employment of 7,930. New York is considered a hub for fashion designers due to

4914-657: Is a commune in the Corrèze department in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of central France . Aubazines is a commune in the Massif Central located some 10 km east by north-east of Brive-la-Gaillarde and 12 km south-west of Tulle . The D1089 highway passes through the north-west of the commune going from Malemort-sur-Corrèze to Tulle. However, access to the village is by the D130 branching off

5040-420: Is a new means of communication for designers and allows ideas to flow. Designers are provided with a space to also create more professional and industry standard specifications such as technical flats and tech packs. Software such as Browzwear, Clo3D, and Optitex aid designers in the product development stage. Virtual reality has allowed a new way to prototype clothing to originally see designers. This eliminates

5166-531: Is considered one of the premier fashion events in the country. Lakme Fashion Week in India takes place twice a year and is held in the populous city of Mumbai. The first show occurs during April featuring summer collections. The second show takes place in August to showcase the winter collection. Lakme , a cosmetic brand for Indian women, hosts the event. This fashion week started in 1999 and originally partnered with

Coco Chanel - Misplaced Pages Continue

5292-416: Is considered one of the top fashion schools in the world. There are numerous fashion magazines published in the United States and distributed to a global readership. Examples include Vogue , Harper's Bazaar , and Cosmopolitan . American fashion design is highly diverse, reflecting the enormous ethnic diversity of the population, but is largely dominated by a clean-cut, urban, hip aesthetic, and often favors

5418-643: Is home to the largest, wealthiest, and most multi-faceted fashion industry. Most fashion houses in the United States are based in New York City , with a high concentration centered in the Garment District neighborhood. On the US west coast, there is also to a lesser extent a significant number of fashion houses in Los Angeles , where a substantial percentage of high fashion clothing manufactured in

5544-409: Is likely to wear a garment and the situations in which it will be worn, and they work with a wide range of materials, colors, patterns , and styles. Though most clothing worn for everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual garments are usually sought for special occasions such as evening wear or party dresses . Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in

5670-626: Is mixed forest and farmland. The Corrèze river forms the north-western border of the commune as it flows south-west to join the Vézère west of Brive-la-Gaillarde. A number of streams rise in the commune to join the Corrèze including the Ruisseau de la Geinde, 2.7 km long, which rises near Quatre-Routes and flows north to join the Ruisseau de Brauze in Cornil commune which flows to the Corrèze,

5796-497: Is often considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first designer to have his label sewn into the garments that he created. Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris , clothing design and creation of the garments were handled largely by anonymous seamstresses. At the time high fashion descended from what was popularly worn at royal courts. Worth's success

5922-505: Is the capital of French fashion . Traditionally, French fashion is chic and stylish, defined by its sophistication, cut, and smart accessories. French fashion is internationally acclaimed. Madrid and Barcelona are the main fashion centers in Spain. Spanish fashion is often more conservative and traditional but also more 'timeless' than other fashion cultures. Spaniards are known not to take great risks when dressing. Nonetheless, many of

6048-652: Is the centre of fashion in Germany (prominently displayed at Berlin Fashion Week ), while Düsseldorf holds Europe's largest fashion trade fairs with Igedo . Other important centres of the scene are Munich , Hamburg , and Cologne . German fashion is known for its elegant lines as well as unconventional young designs and the great variety of styles. Most of the Indian fashion houses are in Mumbai, Lakme Fashion Week

6174-405: Is the only fashion designer listed on Time magazine's list of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century . A prolific fashion creator, Chanel extended her influence beyond couture clothing into jewellery, handbags, and fragrance. Her signature scent, Chanel No. 5 , has become an iconic product, and Chanel herself designed her famed interlocked-CC monogram, which has been in use since

6300-529: Is therefore no longer in fashion". The median annual wages for salaried fashion designers was $ 79,290 in May 2023, approximately $ 38.12 per hour. The middle 50 percent earned an average of 76,700. The lowest 10 percent earned $ 37,090 and the highest 10 percent earned $ 160,850. The highest number of employment lies within Apparel , Piece Goods , and Notions Merchant Wholesalers with a percentage of 5.4. The average

6426-566: The FDCI , Fashion Design Council of India then later  switched to a sponsorship with Lakme. Milan is Italy's fashion capital. Most of the older Italian couturiers are in Rome . However, Milan and Florence are the Italian fashion capitals, and it is the exhibition venue for their collections. Italian fashion features casual and glamorous elegance. In Italy, Milan Fashion Week takes place twice

SECTION 50

#1732772770542

6552-484: The Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia . They had a romantic interlude, and maintained a close association for many years afterward. By 1919, Chanel was registered as a couturière and established her maison de couture at 31 rue Cambon, Paris. In 1918, Chanel purchased the building at 31 rue Cambon, in one of the most fashionable districts of Paris. In 1921, she opened an early incarnation of

6678-504: The Hotel Ritz . It was noteworthy as the preferred place of residence for upper-echelon German military staff. During this time, she had a romantic liaison with Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage , a German aristocrat and member of Dincklage noble family . He served as diplomat in Paris and was a former Prussian Army officer and attorney general who had been an operative in military intelligence since 1920, who eased her arrangements at

6804-634: The Wayback Machine completed this action. The Tacot (Jalopy) had disappeared by 1932, replaced by a bus and the agglomeration of the Gare d'Aubazine retained its thriving business. New houses were built and a school with two classes was opened for the children. Their parents climbed to Dampniat to learn to read. In June 1944 maquisards destroyed the Claredent railway bridge, blocking a German armoured train and preventing convoys of equipment from

6930-422: The guochao ( Chinese : 国潮 ; pinyin : Guó cháo ) movement , a trend of preferring homegrown designers which incorporate aspects of Chinese history and culture. Hong Kong clothing brand Shanghai Tang 's design concept is inspired by Chinese clothing and set out to rejuvenate Chinese fashion of the 1920s and 30s, with a modern twist of the 21st century and its usage of bright colours. Additionally,

7056-435: The "fabric, shape and construction of a people's clothing". Textiles were created from plant fibers including cotton and agave. Class status differentiated what fabric was worn. Mexican dress was influenced by geometric shapes to create the silhouettes. Huipil a blouse characterized by a "loose, sleeveless tunic made of two or three joined webs of cloth sewn lengthwise" is an important historical garment, often seen today. After

7182-706: The 1920s. Her couture house closed in 1939, with the outbreak of World War II . Chanel stayed in France during the Nazi German occupation and collaborated with the occupiers and the Vichy puppet regime . Declassified documents revealed that she had collaborated directly with the Nazi intelligence service, the Sicherheitsdienst . One plan in late 1943 was for her to carry an SS peace overture to Churchill to end

7308-458: The 1950s, fashion clothing was predominately designed and manufactured on a made-to-measure or haute couture basis ( French for high-sewing), with each garment being created for a specific client. A couture garment is made to order for an individual customer, and is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric, sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Look and fit take priority over

7434-482: The Côte Basque, close to wealthy Spanish clients, was a playground for the moneyed set and those exiled from their native countries by the war. The Biarritz shop was installed not as a store-front, but in a villa opposite the casino. After one year of operation, the business proved to be so lucrative that in 1916 Chanel was able to reimburse Capel's original investment. In Biarritz Chanel met an expatriate aristocrat,

7560-568: The D1089, going south to the village, and continuing south to Beynat . The D48 also goes east from the village to Le Chastang with the D48E branching off it in the east of the commune to go north to Cornil . The D14E1 also goes south-west from the village to join the D14. A railway line passes through the commune parallel to the D1089 and the station for Aubazines is at Aubazine-Saint-Hilaire station in

7686-514: The Duke of Westminster in the 1930s, her style began to reflect her personal emotions. Her inability to reinvent the little black dress was a sign of such reality. She began to design a "less is more" aesthetic. In 1931, while in Monte Carlo Chanel became acquainted with Samuel Goldwyn . She was introduced through a mutual friend, the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich , cousin to the last tsar of Russia, Nicholas II . Goldwyn offered Chanel

SECTION 60

#1732772770542

7812-603: The French general labour strike of 1936. In closing her couture house, Chanel made a definitive statement of her political views. Her dislike of Jews, reportedly sharpened by her association with society elites, had solidified her beliefs. She shared with many of her circle a conviction that Jews were a threat to Europe because of the Bolshevik government in the Soviet Union. During the German occupation, Chanel resided at

7938-679: The German cause as early as 1941 and worked for General Walter Schellenberg , chief of the German intelligence agency Sicherheitsdienst (Security Service; SD) and the military intelligence spy network Abwehr (Counterintelligence) at the Reich Security Main Office ( Reichssicherheitshauptamt ; RSHA) in Berlin . At the end of the war, Schellenberg was tried by the Nuremberg Military Tribunal , and sentenced to six years' imprisonment for war crimes. He

8064-676: The Ritz. Sleeping with the Enemy, Coco Chanel and the Secret War written by Hal Vaughan further solidifies the consistencies of the French intelligence documents describing Chanel as a "vicious antisemite" who praised Hitler. World War II, specifically the Nazi seizure of all Jewish-owned property and business enterprises, provided Chanel with the opportunity to gain the full monetary fortune generated by Parfums Chanel and its most profitable product, Chanel No. 5. The directors of Parfums Chanel ,

8190-633: The Ruisseau Français, and the Canal des Moines which branches from the Coiroux. The lowest altitude of the commune is 126 metres in the west where the Corrèze leaves the commune. The highest points are 520 metres high on the Puy de Pauliac which dominates the area, and in the south-east next to Le Chastang near a place called la Jarouste . The village of Aubazines, which had a church, became

8316-741: The Spanish Conquest, traditional Mexican clothing shifted to take a Spanish resemblance. Mexican indigenous groups rely on specific embroidery and colors to differentiate themselves from each other. Mexican Pink is a significant color to the identity of Mexican art and design and general spirit. The term "Rosa Mexicano" as described by Ramón Valdiosera was established by prominent figures such as Dolores del Río and designer Ramón Val in New York. When newspapers and magazines such as El Imparcial and El Mundo Ilustrado circulated in Mexico, became

8442-560: The United States is actually made. Miami has also emerged as a new fashion hub, especially in regards to swimwear and other beach-oriented fashion. A semi-annual event held every February and September, New York Fashion Week is the oldest of the four major fashion weeks held throughout the world. Parsons The New School for Design , located in the Greenwich Village neighborhood of Lower Manhattan in New York City,

8568-418: The Wertheimers, were Jewish. Chanel used her position as an " Aryan " to petition German officials to legalise her claim to sole ownership. On 5 May 1941, she wrote to the government administrator charged with ruling on the disposition of Jewish financial assets. Her grounds for proprietary ownership were based on the claim that Parfums Chanel "is still the property of Jews" and had been legally "abandoned" by

8694-490: The actors looked like ambulant mummies or victims of some terrible accident." She was also involved in the costuming of Baccanale , a Ballets Russes de Monte Carlo production. The designs were made by Salvador Dalí. However, due to Britain's declaration of war on 3 September 1939, the ballet was forced to leave London. They left the costumes in Europe and were re-made, according to Dali's initial designs, by Karinska. In 1939, at

8820-576: The arrangement, Chanel worked for more than twenty years to gain full control of Parfums Chanel . She said that Pierre Wertheimer was "the bandit who screwed me". One of Chanel's longest enduring associations was with Misia Sert , a member of the bohemian elite in Paris and wife of Spanish painter José-Maria Sert . It is said that theirs was an immediate bond of kindred souls, and Misia was attracted to Chanel by "her genius, lethal wit, sarcasm and maniacal destructiveness, which intrigued and appalled everyone". Both women were convent-schooled, and maintained

8946-441: The beginning of World War II, Chanel closed her shops, maintaining her apartment situated above the couture house at 31 Rue de Cambon. She said that it was not a time for fashion; as a result of her action, 4,000 female employees lost their jobs. Her biographer Hal Vaughan suggests that Chanel used the outbreak of war as an opportunity to retaliate against those workers who had gone on strike for higher wages and shorter work hours in

9072-474: The capital of the United Kingdom fashion industry and has a wide range of foreign designs which have integrated with modern British styles. Typical British design is smart but innovative yet recently has become more and more unconventional, fusing traditional styles with modern techniques. Vintage styles play an important role in the British fashion and styling industry. Stylists regularly 'mix and match'

9198-413: The case of haute couture or bespoke tailoring . Today, most clothing is designed for the mass market , especially casual and everyday wear, which are commonly known as ready to wear or fast fashion . There are different lines of work for designers in the fashion industry. Fashion designers who work full-time for a fashion house, as 'in-house designers', own the designs and may either work alone or as

9324-401: The commune of Saint-Hilaire-Peyroux is an integral part of the history of Aubazines and of Dampniat than that of Saint-Hilaire. The railway station was established at a place called Confolens however, as the station was primarily to serve Aubazines even though it was on the territory of the neighbouring commune, the council demanded a composite name. The railway acceded to the demand and

9450-691: The conception of the Chanel look. The bottle design for Chanel No. 5 had two probable origins, both attributable to her association with Capel. It is believed Chanel adapted the rectangular, bevelled lines of the Charvet toiletry bottles he carried in his leather travelling case or she adapted the design of the whisky decanter Capel used. She so much admired it that she wished to reproduce it in "exquisite, expensive, delicate glass". The couple spent time together at fashionable resorts such as Deauville , but despite Chanel's hopes that they would settle together, Capel

9576-572: The contract was renegotiated. In addition, Pierre Wertheimer agreed to an unusual stipulation proposed by Chanel herself: Wertheimer agreed to pay all of Chanel's living expenses—from the trivial to the large—for the rest of her life. Declassified archival documents unearthed by journalist Hal Vaughan reveal that the French Préfecture de Police had a document on Chanel in which she was described as "Couturier and perfumer. Pseudonym: Westminster. Agent reference: F 7124. Signalled as suspect in

9702-580: The cost of materials and the time it takes to make. Due to the high cost of each garment, haute couture makes little direct profit for the fashion houses, but is important for prestige and publicity. Ready-to-wear, or prêt-à-porter, clothes are a cross between haute couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity, so they are rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during

9828-512: The cultivation of a social set that revelled in partying and the gratification of human appetites, with all the implied accompanying decadence. Balsan showered Chanel with the baubles of "the rich life"—diamonds, dresses, and pearls. Biographer Justine Picardie, in her 2010 study Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life , suggests that the fashion designer's nephew, André Palasse, supposedly the only child of her sister Julia-Berthe who had committed suicide,

9954-548: The dedicated support of two family members, her sister Antoinette, and her paternal aunt Adrienne, who was of a similar age. Adrienne and Antoinette were recruited to model Chanel's designs; on a daily basis the two women paraded through the town and on its boardwalks, advertising the Chanel creations. Chanel, determined to re-create the success she enjoyed in Deauville, opened an establishment in Biarritz in 1915. Biarritz, on

10080-528: The deluxe Hotel Ritz , which was also used as the headquarters of the German military. It was at the Hotel Ritz where she fell in love with Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage , working in the German embassy close to the Gestapo. When the Nazi occupation of France began, Chanel decided to close her store, claiming a patriotic motivation behind such decision. However, when she moved into the same Hotel Ritz that

10206-402: The designer Elsa Schiaparelli . Schiaparelli's innovative designs, replete with playful references to surrealism , were garnering critical acclaim and generating enthusiasm in the fashion world. Feeling she was losing her avant-garde edge, Chanel collaborated with Jean Cocteau on his theatre piece Oedipe Rex . The costumes she designed were mocked and critically lambasted: "Wrapped in bandages

10332-498: The era) in a Moulins pavilion, La Rotonde . She was a poseuse , a performer who entertained the crowd between star turns. The money earned was what they managed to accumulate when the plate was passed. It was at this time that Gabrielle acquired the name "Coco" when she spent her nights singing in the cabaret, often the song, "Who Has Seen Coco?" She often liked to say the nickname was given to her by her father. Others believe "Coco" came from Ko Ko Ri Ko , and Qui qu'a vu Coco , or it

10458-483: The fashion brands and designers coming from Spain. The most notable luxury houses are Loewe and Balenciaga . Famous designers include Manolo Blahnik , Elio Berhanyer , Cristóbal Balenciaga , Paco Rabanne , Adolfo Domínguez , Manuel Pertegaz , Jesús del Pozo , Felipe Varela and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada . Spain is also home to large fashion brands such as Zara , Massimo Dutti , Bershka , Pull&Bear , Mango , Desigual , Pepe Jeans and Camper . Berlin

10584-635: The file" ( Pseudonyme: Westminster. Indicatif d'agent: F 7124. Signalée comme suspecte au fichier ). For Vaughan, this was a piece of revelatory information linking Chanel to German intelligence operations. Anti-Nazi activist Serge Klarsfeld declared, "Just because Chanel had a spy number doesn't necessarily mean she was personally involved. Some informers had numbers without being aware of it." (" Ce n'est pas parce que Coco Chanel avait un numéro d'espion qu'elle était nécessairement impliquée personnellement. Certains indicateurs avaient des numéros sans le savoir "). Vaughan establishes that Chanel committed herself to

10710-495: The garment, and what would usually be considered, the passive "consumer". This differs from ready-to-wear fashion, as the consumer is able to participate in the process of making and co-designing their clothing. During the Make{able} workshop, Hirscher and Niinimaki found that personal involvement in the garment-making process created a meaningful "narrative" for the user, which established a person-product attachment and increased

10836-537: The general public did not have ready access to pre-made fashion. Most of the Swiss fashion houses are in Zürich . The Swiss look is casual elegant and luxurious with a slight touch of quirkiness. Additionally, it has been greatly influenced by the dance club scene. In the development of Mexican indigenous dress, the fabrication was determined by the materials and resources that are available in specific regions, impacting

10962-623: The illegitimate daughter of the Marquess of Cambridge , offered Chanel entry into the highest levels of British aristocracy. It was an elite group of associations revolving around such figures as politician Winston Churchill , aristocrats such as the Duke of Westminster and royals such as Edward, Prince of Wales . In Monte Carlo in 1923, at age forty, Chanel was introduced by Lombardi to the vastly wealthy Duke of Westminster, Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor , known to his intimates as "Bendor". The duke lavished Chanel with extravagant jewels, costly art and

11088-518: The images were shown to clients to gain approval, which saved time and money for the designer. If the client liked their design, the patrons commissioned the garment from the designer, and it was produced for the client in the fashion house. This designer-patron construct launched designers sketching their work rather than putting the completed designs on models. Garments produced by clothing manufacturers fall into three main categories, although these may be split up into additional, different types. Until

11214-503: The industry. 3D printing allows a larger area of personalized products and widening originality. Iris van Herpen , a Dutch designer, has showcased the incorporation of 3D printing as her Crystallization used 3D printing for the first time on a runway. The innovation has re-shaped the fashion industry and creates a new area of creativity. Apps and software have increasingly changed how designers can use technology to create. Adobe Creative Cloud , specifically Photoshop and Illustrator ,

11340-593: The late 1980s and early 1990s, Belgian fashion designers brought a new fashion image that mixed East and West, and brought a highly individualised, personal vision on fashion. Well known Belgian designers are the Antwerp Six : Ann Demeulemeester , Dries Van Noten , Dirk Bikkembergs , Dirk Van Saene , Walter Van Beirendonck and Marina Yee, as well as Martin Margiela , Raf Simons , Kris Van Assche , Bruno Pieters , Anthony Vaccarello . London has long been

11466-734: The manufacture of weapons at Tulle from being quickly transported to their destination on the front or the Rhine. Party per pale, at first Gules, a sun in his splendour of Or with two mullets the same all posed in pale; at second Azure a crescent moon of Argent with two mullets the same all posed in pale. List of Successive Mayors The inhabitants of the commune are known as Aubazinois or Aubazinoises in French. The commune has two structures that are registered as historical monuments: Other sites of interest are: Two religious buildings are registered as historical monuments and one more contains historical objects: A Postage stamp with

11592-430: The mass market. Large designer brands that have a 'name' as their brand such as Abercrombie & Fitch , Justice , or Juicy are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a design director. Garment design includes components of "color, texture, space, lines, pattern, silhouette, shape, proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm, and harmony". All of these elements come together to design

11718-432: The material of a garment. Material innovation creates a new way for fibers to be re-imagined or for new materials to be constructed. This overall aids in functional and aesthetic purposes for the designer. The material technology has been used with brands such as Werewool and Bananatex . These brands innovate the way designers can construct their garments and provide new materials to be used. Modern Western fashion design

11844-488: The mentorship of Reverdy—a collaborative effort. A review of her correspondence reveals a complete contradiction between the clumsiness of Chanel the letter writer and the talent of Chanel as a composer of maxims ... After correcting the handful of aphorisms that Chanel wrote about her métier , Reverdy added to this collection of "Chanelisms" a series of thoughts of a more general nature, some touching on life and taste, others on allure and love. Her involvement with Iribe

11970-403: The need for a live model and fittings, which shortens the production process. 3D modeling within software allows for initial sampling and development stages for partnerships with suppliers before the garments are produced. Mock-ups of designs in the 3D modeling allows for problems to be solved before a final sample is made and sent to a manufacturer. Technology can also be used and aid within

12096-589: The neighbouring commune Saint-Hilaire-Peyroux . The line is served by the TER Nouvelle-Aquitaine trains towards Brive-la-Gaillarde, Tulle, Ussel and Bordeaux . The village is in the south of the commune on a promontory overlooking the Coiroux at a height of over 150 metres. Apart from the village there are the hamlets of: Pauliac Bas, Pauliac Haut, Villieres, Vergonzac, Le Varachou, Rochesseux, Chastagnol, Quatre Routes, and Les Vayres. The commune

12222-523: The new (1920) Ballets Russes production of Stravinsky's Le Sacre du Printemps ('The Rite of Spring') against financial loss with an anonymous gift to Diaghilev, said to be 300,000 francs. In addition to turning out her couture collections, Chanel threw herself into designing dance costumes for the Ballets Russes. In the years 1923–1937, she collaborated on productions choreographed by Diaghilev and dancer Vaslav Nijinsky , notably Le Train bleu ,

12348-557: The old with the new, which gives British style a unique, bohemian aesthetic. Irish fashion (both design and styling) is also heavily influenced by fashion trends from Britain. Well-known British designers include Thomas Burberry , Alfred Dunhill , Paul Smith , Vivienne Westwood , Stella McCartney , Jimmy Choo , John Galliano , John Richmond , Alexander McQueen , Matthew Williamson , Gareth Pugh , Hussein Chalayan and Neil Barrett . Most French fashion houses are in Paris , which

12474-456: The overall fit of the garment. Contouring allows for areas of a garment to fit closer to areas of the torso such as the bust or shoulders. Added fullness increases the length or width of a pattern to change the frame as well as fit of the garment. The fullness can be added on one side, unequal, or equally to the pattern. A designer may choose to work with certain apps that can help connect all their ideas together and expand their thoughts to create

12600-495: The owners. She wrote: I have an indisputable right of priority ... the profits that I have received from my creations since the foundation of this business ... are disproportionate ... [and] you can help to repair in part the prejudices I have suffered in the course of these seventeen years. Chanel was not aware that the Wertheimers, anticipating the forthcoming Nazi mandates against Jews, had legally turned over control of Parfums Chanel in May 1940 to Félix Amiot ,

12726-484: The reputation and status of the Chanel brand. Forbes magazine summarised the dilemma faced by the Wertheimers: [it is Pierre Wertheimer's worry] how "a legal fight might illuminate Chanel's wartime activities and wreck her image—and his business." Chanel hired René de Chambrun , Vichy France prime minister Pierre Laval 's son-in-law, as her lawyer to sue Wertheimer. Ultimately, the Wertheimers and Chanel came to

12852-536: The same social circles as Chanel, provided a whimsical description of Chanel at work in her atelier, which appeared in Prisons et Paradis (1932): If every human face bears a resemblance to some animal, then Mademoiselle Chanel is a small black bull. That tuft of curly black hair, the attribute of bull-calves, falls over her brow all the way to the eyelids and dances with every maneuver of her head. In 1923, Vera Bate Lombardi , (born Sarah Gertrude Arkwright), reputedly

12978-415: The sentimental value of the final product. Otto von Busch also explores half-way garments and fashion co-design in his thesis, "Fashion-able, Hacktivism and engaged Fashion Design". Currently, the fashion industry relies more on mass-market sales. The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing ready-to-wear garments using trends set by the famous names in fashion. They often wait around

13104-790: The stop which was called Aubazine-Saint-Hilaire-Peyroux became Aubazine thereafter. Saint-Hilaire-Peyroux have their own stop at Pont Bonnel . Before 1840, the date of the opening of Route nationale N89 (later D1089), there was nothing at the bottom of this valley other than the worn-out mills of: Confolens in Dampniat commune, Claredent in Aubazines commune, and Jayle in Malemort-sur-Corrèze commune, which were accessible only on narrow, bumpy, and steep slopes by goods wagons. Horses, mules, and donkeys circulated more often than carts. The village, now called Gare d'Aubazine

13230-522: The village of Coyroux a few hundred metres away. The two monasteries existed until the Revolution. Formerly spelled Obazine the parish depended on Cornil . The site of the monastic institutions and their dependencies have been the object of archaeological excavations and extensive studies in the last third of the 20th century under the direction of Professor of medieval history Bernadette Barrière. The village of Gare d'Aubazine , although located in

13356-488: The war. Chanel began a liaison with a German diplomat/spy she had known before the war, Baron ( Freiherr ) Hans Günther von Dincklage . After the end of the war, Chanel was interrogated about her relationship with Dincklage, but she was not charged as a collaborator due to intervention by her friend—British prime minister Winston Churchill . When the war ended, Chanel moved to Switzerland before returning to Paris in 1954 to revive her fashion house. Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel

13482-540: Was Chanel's child by Balsan. In 1908, Chanel began an affair with one of Balsan's friends, Captain Arthur Edward 'Boy' Capel . In later years, Chanel reminisced of this time in her life: "two gentlemen were outbidding for my hot little body." Capel, a wealthy member of the English upper class, installed Chanel in an apartment in Paris, and financed her first shops. It is said that Capel's sartorial style influenced

13608-475: Was a deep one until his sudden death in 1935. Iribe and Chanel shared the same reactionary politics, Chanel financing Iribe's monthly, ultra-nationalist and anti-republican newsletter, Le Témoin , which encouraged a fear of foreigners and preached antisemitism. In 1936, one year after Le Témoin ceased publication, Chanel veered to the opposite end of the ideological continuum by financing Pierre Lestringuez's radical left-wing magazine Futur . The Chanel couture

13734-491: Was a lucrative business enterprise, employing 4,000 people by 1935. As the 1930s progressed, Chanel's place on the throne of haute couture was threatened. The boyish look and the short skirts of the 1920s flapper seemed to disappear overnight. Chanel's designs for film stars in Hollywood were not successful and had not enhanced her reputation as expected. More significantly, Chanel's star had been eclipsed by her premier rival,

13860-558: Was a stark, frugal life, demanding strict discipline. Placement in the orphanage may have contributed to Chanel's future career, as it was where she learned to sew. At age eighteen, Chanel, too old to remain at Aubazine, went to live in a boarding house for Catholic girls in the town of Moulins . Later in life, Chanel would retell the story of her childhood somewhat differently; she would often include more glamorous accounts, which were generally untrue. She said that when her mother died, her father sailed for America to seek his fortune, and she

13986-855: Was a terrible blow to me. In losing Capel, I lost everything. What followed was not a life of happiness, I have to say." Chanel had begun designing hats while living with Balsan, initially as a diversion that evolved into a commercial enterprise. She became a licensed milliner in 1910 and opened a boutique at 21 rue Cambon, Paris, named Chanel Modes . As this location already housed an established clothing business, Chanel sold only her millinery creations at this address. Chanel's millinery career bloomed once theatre actress Gabrielle Dorziat wore her hats in Fernand Nozière's play Bel Ami in 1912. Subsequently, Dorziat modelled Chanel's hats again in photographs published in Les Modes . In 1913, Chanel opened

14112-682: Was also known as "Sparrow" among his friends and colleagues. Dincklage was also a collaborator for the German SD; his superiors being Walter Schellenberg and Alexander Waag in Berlin. Chanel and Dincklage were to report to Schellenberg at the RSHA, with a plan that Chanel had proposed to Dincklage: she, Coco Chanel, was to meet Churchill and persuade him to negotiate with the Germans. In late 1943 or early 1944, Chanel and her SS superior, Schellenberg, who had

14238-443: Was an allusion to the French word for kept woman , cocotte . As an entertainer, Chanel radiated a juvenile allure that tantalised the military habitués of the cabaret. In 1906, Chanel worked in the spa resort town of Vichy . Vichy boasted a profusion of concert halls, theatres, and cafés where she hoped to achieve success as a performer. Chanel's youth and physical charms impressed those for whom she auditioned, but her singing voice

14364-753: Was born in 1883 to Eugénie Jeanne Devolle Chanel, known as Jeanne, a laundrywoman , in the charity hospital run by the Sisters of Providence (a poorhouse ) in Saumur , Maine-et-Loire. She was Jeanne's second child with Albert Chanel; the first, Julia, had been born less than a year earlier. Albert Chanel was an itinerant street vendor who peddled work clothes and undergarments, living a nomadic life, travelling to and from market towns. The family resided in run-down lodgings. In 1884, he married Jeanne Devolle, persuaded to legitimate his children by her family who had "united, effectively, to pay Albert". At birth, Chanel's name

14490-536: Was directly involved in a plan for the Third Reich to take control of Madrid. Such documents identify Chanel as an agent in the German military intelligence, the Abwehr. Chanel visited Madrid in 1943 to convince the British ambassador to Spain, Sir Samuel Hoare , a friend of Winston Churchill , about a possible German surrender once the war was leaning towards an Allied victory. One of the most prominent missions she

14616-495: Was entered into the official registry as "Chasnel". Jeanne was too unwell to attend the registration, and Albert was registered as "traveling". She went to her grave as Gabrielle Chasnel because to correct, legally, the misspelled name on her birth certificate would reveal that she was born in a poor house hospice. The couple had six children—Julia, Gabrielle, Alphonse (the first boy, born 1885), Antoinette (born 1887), Lucien, and Augustin (who died at six months)—and lived crowded into

14742-421: Was housing the German military, her motivations became clear to many. While many women in France were punished for " horizontal collaboration " with German officers, Chanel faced no such action. At the time of the French liberation in 1944, Chanel left a note in her store window explaining Chanel No. 5 to be free to all GIs. During this time, she fled to Switzerland to avoid criminal charges for her collaborations as

14868-586: Was interviewed by Collier's magazine in 1932. She said that she had agreed to go to Hollywood to "see what the pictures have to offer me and what I have to offer the pictures". Chanel designed the clothing worn on screen by Gloria Swanson , in Tonight or Never (1931), and for Ina Claire in The Greeks Had a Word for Them (1932). Both Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich became private clients. Her experience with American film making left Chanel with

14994-625: Was involved in was Operation Modellhut ("Operation Model Hat"). Her duty was to act as a messenger from Hitler's Foreign Intelligence to Churchill, to prove that some of the Third Reich attempted peace with the Allies. In 1943, Chanel travelled to the RSHA in Berlin—the "lion's den"—with her liaison and "old friend", the German Embassy in Paris press attaché Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage, a former Prussian Army officer and attorney general, who

15120-559: Was marginal and she failed to find stage work. Obliged to find employment, she took work at the Grande Grille , where as a donneuse d'eau she was one whose job was to dispense glasses of the purportedly curative mineral water for which Vichy was renowned. When the Vichy season ended, Chanel returned to Moulins, and her former haunt La Rotonde . She realised then that a serious stage career was not in her future. At Moulins, Chanel met

15246-504: Was never faithful to her. Their affair lasted nine years. Even after Capel married an English aristocrat, Lady Diana Wyndham in 1918, he did not completely break off with Chanel. He died in a car accident on 22 December 1919. A roadside memorial at the site of Capel's accident is said to have been commissioned by Chanel. Twenty-five years after the event, Chanel, then residing in Switzerland, confided to her friend, Paul Morand, "His death

15372-509: Was rather poorly named. The SNCF station is located on the right bank of the Corrèze in the territory of Saint-Hilaire-Peyroux while the left bank belongs largely to Dampniat with the nearest village located 2 km away. The Confolens bridge and paper mill added to progress together with the railway at the end of the 19th century and in 1912 the establishment of a railhead for the departmental tram line going to Turenne then Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne via Le Bosplos Archived 21 May 2014 at

15498-451: Was released in 1951 owing to incurable liver disease and took refuge in Italy. Chanel paid for Schellenberg's medical care and living expenses, financially supported his wife and family and paid for Schellenberg's funeral upon his death in 1952. Suspicions of Coco Chanel's involvement first began when German tanks entered Paris and began the Nazi occupation. Chanel immediately sought refuge in

15624-424: Was sent to live with two aunts. She also claimed to have been born a decade later than 1883 and that her mother had died when she was much younger than 11. Having learned to sew during her six years at Aubazine , Chanel found employment as a seamstress . When not sewing, she sang in a cabaret frequented by cavalry officers. Chanel made her stage debut singing at a cafe-concert (a popular entertainment venue of

15750-538: Was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term couturier was in fact first created in order to describe him. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design , only clothing created after 1858 is considered fashion design. It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. Rather than going straight into manufacturing,

15876-417: Was the mistress of some of the most influential men of her time, but she never married. She had significant relationships with the poet Pierre Reverdy and the illustrator and designer Paul Iribe . After her romance with Reverdy ended in 1926, they maintained a friendship that lasted some forty years. It is postulated that the legendary maxims attributed to Chanel and published in periodicals were crafted under

#541458