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34-658: Central Cordillera refers to the New Guinea Highlands . Cordillera Central , meaning central range in Spanish, may refer to the following mountain ranges: New Guinea Highlands The Central Cordillera, some peaks of which are capped with ice , consists of (from east to west): the Central Highlands and Eastern Highlands of Papua New Guinea including the Owen Stanley Range in

68-521: A cuscus possum, an antechinus , and Doria's tree-kangaroo ( Dendrolagus dorianus ). Four of these are endemic: the small marsupial black-tailed antechinus ( Murexechinus melanurus ), western shrew mouse , glacier rat , and alpine woolly rat . There are nearly 100 birds of which 28 are considered endemic or nearly so, including the vulnerable long-bearded honeyeater ( Melionyx princeps ), ribbon-tailed astrapia ( Astrapia mayeri ), and Macgregor's giant honeyeater , which although endangered generally

102-573: A transform fault that marked the boundary with the adjoining to the north Solomon Sea plate. When further oceanographic studies defined that there was a transform fault they also potentially enlarged the size of the Solomon Sea plate or created the need for a further current plate. It was also in this model contacting the South Bismarck plate to the northeast. Most of its originally assigned area and boundary activity are now assigned to

136-636: A combination of the Australian plate and other microplates. It is possible that if a still active Trobriand microplate exists, because active subduction is still taking place at the Trobriand Trough, all the western activity that some have assigned to an enlarged Solomon Sea plate will become assigned to the Trobriand microplate. The Trobriand microplate must have existed historically. These assignments are partially informed by GNS studies where

170-558: A large Leptomys , the eastern shrew mouse , and the lesser small-toothed rat . There are 55 bird species endemic to the mountains from a total of 348 birds found here. There are several endemic butterflies, particularly in the Weyland Mountains and the Wahgi Valley. Apart from the cultivated valleys, the montane forests are largely intact, although the logging industry is a constant threat as more and more access to

204-513: A mostly north and south directions across its center in an east–west orientation with the Australian plate being to the south. The spreading centers are offset by transform faults, creating five segments, which causes the spreading center to be uneven across the basin. There are two larger transform faults called respectively the Moresby transform in the middle of the basin and the Simbo transform at

238-559: Is a cultural icon of the Ketengban people of the Star Mountains and therefore protected in some areas. Almost half of these remote grasslands are protected in national parks and they are in good condition although in recent times more people are accessing the highlands as visitors or through involvement in mining. There are several protected areas in the highlands. They include: Woodlark Plate The Woodlark plate

272-588: Is a small almost triangular shaped tectonic plate located east of the island of New Guinea and situated mainly within the northern half of the Woodlark Basin . It is located in a very complex tectonic environment, that because of associated features, has been extensively studied since it was first proposed to exist. It is now known to be much smaller than originally proposed, mainly because of information from GPS stations on islands and sea floor studies that have fully defined its margins. The Woodlark plate

306-649: Is definitely the boundary with the Solomon Sea plate, and will also be the northern boundary with the Trobriand plate if this currently independently exists. The Woodlark plate's eastern side is being subducted northeast beneath the New Georgia Islands on the Solomon Sea/ Pacific plate but here the deformation front lacks a flexed outer rise and bathymetric trench, and is represented by the San Cristobal Trough extension to

340-637: Is no longer accepted to be the case, so that either the Solomon Sea plate , or a further plate called the Trobriand plate must assume this role based on new information such as that from GPS groundstations. In this previous model, the Maoke plate had converged on its west, the Australian plate converges on the south, and on the east there was an undefined compressive zone which might have been

374-520: The Australian Plate collides with the plates to the northeast, marking the southern boundaries of the Maoke and Woodlark plates. The width of the mountain range varies considerably, with a central thin segment near the borders of the two nations. The surface geology of the highlands is made up of metamorphic and intrusive igneous rocks. The metamorphic rocks were Cretaceous and Eocene ocean sediments that were uplifted and folded between

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408-531: The 90 mammals found on the island, 44 are endemic, a very high proportion. The birds and animals include many Australasian species such as tree-kangaroos , bowerbirds , Australasian robins , honeyeaters , and birds of paradise. Four of the endemic mammals are critically endangered: the Bulmer's fruit bat , with only tiny communities remaining in the Papua New Guinea end of the island, and three rodents;

442-458: The Australian mainland. The culture of inter-tribal warfare and animosity between the neighboring tribes have long been present in the Highlands. The New Guinea Highlands are home to a great variety of Australasian plant and animal communities, distinct from the surrounding lowlands to the north and south of the central ranges and varying up and along the mountain ranges. The habitats of

476-557: The Eocene and early Miocene periods. There are also Pleistocene stratovolcanoes in the highlands, including Mount Hagen and Mount Giluwe . The fertile Highlands have long been inhabited and artifacts uncovered in the Ivane Valley indicate that the Highlands were first settled about 50,000 years ago. The inhabitants were nomadic foragers but around 10,000 years ago began developing a fairly advanced agricultural society. Before

510-877: The Indonesian border including Telefomin and Strickland Gorge ; the Hunstein Range ; Mount Giluwe , a major birdwatching area for birds-of-paradise ; the volcanic limestone Kubor Range ; the Bismarck Range/Mount Wilhelm/ Schrader Range /Mount Gahavisuka , of which Mount Wilhelm is particularly rich in endemic species; and finally the Crater Mountain and Mount Michael in the Eastern Highlands. The montane rain forests (from 1,000 to 3,000m) can be further categorised into three broad vegetation zones on

544-556: The PNG Highlands include the Western Highlands capital and PNG's 3rd largest city Mount Hagen (near the extinct Mount Hagen (volcano) ), the Eastern Highlands capital and former colonial town of Goroka , and the mining town of Tabubil . The climate is humid as you would expect of the tropical rainforested island of New Guinea, but the higher mountain slopes are of course cooler than the lowlands. The Highlands are

578-601: The Wahgi Valley and Mount Hagen , and Richard Archbold in the 1930s. It was found that the highland valleys explored in the 1930s were inhabited by over a million people. During World War II , the eastern highlands saw the Kokoda Track campaign in which Australian and New Zealand soldiers, along with native guides who were pressed into service, fought and ultimately stopped the Japanese from advancing south towards Port Moresby and, ultimately, northern Queensland on

612-464: The Woodlark Basin region had distinctly different movements from a "Trobriand Block" and multiple eastern New Guinea land "Blocks" so that it was possible to define up to 5 distinct crustal blocks with possible independent movement that others later interpreted as components of differing microplates. Subduction at the Trobriand Trough was originally assumed to be the case when the existence of

646-623: The Woodlark plate was first modelled but later went out of favour due to the relatively low seismic activity along some of the Trobriand Trough and measurement of movement across the trough. Today because the Woodlark Basin has been well characterised by deep sea ocean basin standards it is understood to have a northern boundary where the Woodlark Rise is associated with the Nubara Transform Fault. This transform fault

680-494: The far eastern end of the spreading center. The rate of spreading in the eastern section of the basin at 6.7 cm/year (2.6 in/year) is significantly higher than the rate of spreading of 3.8 cm/year (1.5 in/year) on the western side of the Woodlark Basin. As the eastern side of the basin has opened up much faster than the western side with the separation at the Moresby Transform Fault there

714-450: The high mountain forest extends from 2,500 to 3,000 metres in elevation. Conifers ( Podocarpus , Dacrycarpus , Dacrydium , Papuacedrus , Araucaria , and Libocedrus ) and broadleaf trees of the myrtle family ( Myrtaceae ) form a thin canopy, with a prominent understory. The montane forests are home to a rich wildlife, a great deal of which is unique to these mountains including many plants, reptiles, and over 100 birds and animals. Of

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748-623: The introduction of the sweet potato , the Highlands had distinct forms of division of labor . In the Eastern Highlands the economy was mixed, with men hunting and cultivating, and women gathering and tending crops. Populations were small, dispersed, and focused on immediate consumption. In the Western Highlands , women were focused on producing large amounts of taro , while men abandoned hunting and were instead focused on animal husbandry and trading. The introduction of

782-450: The mountains have been separated into two ecoregions , depending on their elevation, the tropical montane forests and alpine grasslands, but within these broad bands there is a variety of wildlife along the island as some of the mountains stand quite a distance from others with some species of plant or animal existing on only one or two mountains. Particular centres of plant diversity are the Star Mountains area of western Papua New Guinea near

816-515: The mountains have traditional tribal village communities in the grassy mountain valleys. The PNG highland provinces are Eastern Highlands Province ; Simbu Province (or Chimbu) whose centre is the small coffee-growing town of Kundiawa on the Wahgi River near Mount Wilhelm; Jiwaka Province ; the Western Highlands ; the rugged Enga Province the home of the Enga people with its administration in

850-671: The mountains is achieved by road building. 20% of this ecoregion is contained within protected areas, mostly in the Indonesian half of the island, including the largest protected area in Southeast Asia , the huge Lorentz National Park in the highlands, a section of which is a montane forest ecosystem. Above 3,000 metres elevation, the high mountain forest transitions to remote sub-alpine habitats including alpine meadows, conifer forest, tree-fern ( Cyathea ) grasslands, bogs, and shrubby heaths of Rhododendron , Vaccinium , Coprosma , Rapanea , and Saurauia all quite different from

884-438: The mountains, distinguished by elevation. The lower montane forests extend from 1,000 to 1,500 metres elevation. They are dominated by broadleaf evergreen trees, including Castanopsis acuminatissima , Lithocarpus spp., elaeocarps , and laurels . Coniferous Araucarias may form thick stands. The upper montane forests, which extend from 1,500 to 2,500 metres in elevation, are dominated by moss-covered Nothofagus . Finally,

918-550: The north of the San Cristobal Trench. Where the Woodlark Basin is subducted northeast beneath the New Georgia Islands the relative light plate made of recent oceanic type basalt stays shallow and is presumably being melted on mantle contact and producing the many arc volcanoes of the western Solomon Islands. The southern boundary of the plate is defined by a mid oceanic ridge that is actively spreading tholeiitic basalt similar to mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB) in

952-705: The source of several important rivers including the Sepik River and Ramu River in the north and the Fly River in the south, and lakes including Lake Kutubu , near which oil has been extracted since 1992 by Chevron . Mining is also very active in the region to the detriment of indigenous groups, with frequent friction. List of highest peaks in New Guinea Highlands by elevation. List of rivers in New Guinea Highlands by length. This chain of mountains continues to rise (with corresponding quakes) as

986-893: The southeast, whose highest peak is Mount Victoria at 4,038 metres (13,248 feet), the Albert Victor Mountains, the Sir Arthur Gordon Range, and the Bismarck Range , whose highest peak is Mount Wilhelm at 4,509 metres (14,793 feet), which is an extinct volcano with a crater lake; the Star Mountains on the Papua New Guinea – Indonesia border; and the Maoke Mountains or Snow Range in Indonesia, where perpetual snow

1020-573: The sweet potato had a significant impact on animal husbandry in the area. As it could be used as pig fodder without the need for cooking, societies that adopted this new staple food were able to rapidly amass pigs. These pigs were then traded with surrounding societies, becoming the centerpiece of early economies in the area. The Highlands were not settled by the Western powers during the early colonial period and they were first visited by western zoologists and explorers, such as Mick Leahy , who opened

1054-432: The tropical rain forest that covers most of New Guinea. The alpine habitat above 4,000 metres consists of compact rosette plants and cushion herbs, such as Ranunculus , Potentilla , Gentiana , and Epilobium , grasses ( Poa and Deschampsia ), bryophytes , and lichens . While there are several endemic plants there are few animals on the higher slopes, with only nine mammals found here: four rodents, two bats,

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1088-508: The very small town of Wabag on the Lai River , and containing the large Porgera Gold Mine ; Hela Province ; Southern Highlands Province , with its centre in the small town and airport of Mendi , and containing the Huli wigmen area around the town of Tari ; and parts of West Sepik Province and Western Province . The Highlands Highway connects many of these towns. Larger urban areas in

1122-508: Was found by H. A. Lorentz in 1909 at 4,461 m (14,635 ft), and whose highest peaks are Puncak Jaya (Mt. Carstensz) at 4,884 m (16,024 feet), Puncak Mandala (Mt. Juliana) at 4,760 m (15,610 ft) and Puncak Trikora (Mt. Wilhelmina) at 4,750 m (15,580 ft). Although some valleys such as the Waghi Valley in the Western Highlands , Papua New Guinea are heavily cultivated and support urban settlements most of

1156-488: Was originally proposed to be somewhat larger than currently is believed to be the case. It is now suspected to have four active triple junctions, two of which are with the Australian plate to its south, based on areas of high seismic activity and other evidence. As originally modelled it extended to the west along the east coast of New Guinea and was subducting beneath the Caroline plate along its northern border. This

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