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80-791: The center was formally opened by the First Lady of the United States Michelle Obama on May 5, 2014. Guests included Sarah Jessica Parker , Diane Von Furstenberg , Tory Burch , Zac Posen , Ralph Lauren , and Donatella Versace . In 1902, wealthy philanthropists Irene and Alice Lewisohn began to volunteer at the Henry Street Settlement House in New York, a community center that provided social services and healthcare to immigrant families. Alice, who acted in plays herself, began working as

160-619: A U.S. senator for the seventeen-day overlap before Bill Clinton's term came to an end. Established in 1912, the First Ladies Collection has been one of the most popular attractions at the Smithsonian Institution . The original exhibition opened in 1914 and was one of the first at the Smithsonian to prominently feature women. Originally focused largely on fashion, the exhibition now delves deeper into

240-425: A ceremony on 29 June 2013. On the first day of the sale, Henri Matisse 's painting Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose broke the previous world record set in 2007 for a Matisse work and sold for 32 million euros. The record-breaking sale realized 342.5 million euros (£307 million). The subsequent auction, 17–20 November, included 1,185 items from the couple's Normandy villa. While not as impressive as

320-622: A contest by the International Wool Secretariat at the age of 17. This achievement led to his move to Paris at the age of 18. There, he enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture where his designs quickly gained notice. Michel De Brunhoff, the editor of Vogue France , introduced Saint Laurent to designer Christian Dior , a giant in the fashion world. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak in front of him. He taught me

400-512: A course of study at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the council which regulates the haute couture industry and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed the advice, left Oran for Paris after graduation, began his studies there and eventually graduated as a star pupil. Later that same year, he entered the International Wool Secretariat competition again and won, beating his friend Fernando Sánchez and young German student Karl Lagerfeld . Shortly after his win, he brought

480-605: A designer. His mother later said that she had been confused by the remark, as Dior was only 52 years old at the time. Both she and her son were surprised when Dior died at a health spa in northern Italy of a massive heart attack in October 1957. In 1957, Saint Laurent found himself at age 21 the head designer of the House of Dior . His spring 1958 collection almost certainly saved the enterprise from financial ruin. The simple, flaring lines of his first collection for Dior, called

560-604: A drama teacher, while Irene devoted herself to dance productions. In 1914, the sisters bought a lot on the corner of Grand and Pitt Streets and donated it to the Settlement for building a new theater. The Neighborhood Playhouse opened in 1915. By 1920, the theater employed professional actors, and it was known for its experimental productions and its revue "The Grand Street Follies." Theater designer Aline Bernstein served her apprenticeship there from 1915 to 1924 designing costumes and stage sets. The Playhouse closed in 1927, but

640-475: A few days prior, he and Bergé had been joined in a same-sex civil union known as a Pacte civil de solidarité (PACS) in France. When Saint Laurent was diagnosed as terminal, with only one or two weeks left to live, Bergé and the doctor mutually decided that it would be better for him not to know of his impending death. Bergé said, "I have the belief that Yves would not have been strong enough to accept that." He

720-885: A global fashion icon: her style was copied by commercial manufacturers and imitated by many young women, and she was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1965. Mamie Eisenhower was named one of the twelve best-dressed women in the country by the New York Dress Institute every year that she was First Lady. The "Mamie Look" involved a full-skirted dress, charm bracelets, pearls, little hats, and bobbed, banged hair. Michelle Obama also received significant attention for her fashion choices: style writer Robin Givhan praised her in The Daily Beast , arguing that

800-517: A major misstep. Soon after, Marc Bohan was hired to assist St. Laurent, and the spring 1959 Dior collection brought lengths back to the knee in a well-received collection inspired by the 1930s. Later collections for the House of Dior featuring hobble skirts (fall 1959) and beatnik fashions (fall 1960) were savaged by the press. In 1959, he was chosen by Farah Diba , who was a student in Paris, to design her wedding dress for her marriage to

880-432: A number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized close similarities to sketches he had been shown that morning by Christian Dior. Knowing that Dior had created the sketches that morning and that the young man could not have seen them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior, who hired him on the spot. Although Dior recognised his talent immediately, Saint Laurent spent his first year at the House of Dior on mundane tasks, decorating

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960-470: A staff to support these activities. Lady Bird Johnson pioneered environmental protection and beautification. Pat Nixon encouraged volunteerism and traveled extensively abroad; Betty Ford supported women's rights; Rosalynn Carter aided those with mental disabilities; Nancy Reagan founded the Just Say No drug awareness campaign; Barbara Bush promoted literacy; Hillary Clinton sought to reform

1040-460: Is also credited with having introduced the " Le Smoking " tuxedo suit for women and was known for his use of non-European cultural references and of diverse models. Historian Caroline Milbank wrote, "The most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture's rise from its 1960s ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable." Saint Laurent

1120-631: Is in the Brooklyn collection. On September 8, 2015, it was announced that Harold Koda would be stepping down from his position as Curator in Charge of the Costume Institute. Andrew Bolton, who had joined the Costume Institute in 2002 as associate curator and was made curator in 2006, was announced as his replacement. In May 2017, the Costume Institute featured an exhibition featuring the works of Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons . The exhibit

1200-696: Is now home to the Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library. Since 1946, with help from the fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert , the institute has hosted the annual Met Gala to raise money for operating expenses. In 2009, the American Costume Collection of the Brooklyn Museum was transferred to the Costume Institute, as The Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art . The high costs of maintaining and displaying

1280-477: The Le Smoking suit; Mounia, a model from Martinique who was the oft-used bride at his fashion shows; Lucie de la Falaise , a Welsh-French model and niece of Loulou, who was the bride in his fashion shows in 1990–1994; jewelry designer Paloma Picasso ; Dutch actress Talitha Getty ; American socialite Nan Kempner , who was named ambassador for the brand; Italian model Marina Schiano , who managed

1360-399: The Le Smoking women's tuxedo suit (1966), and safari jackets for men and women (1967). Many of his designs were inspired by women's lives in the sociopolitical climate of the time, particularly the trousers he showed in 1968 after witnessing the epochal French uprisings of that year. Saint Laurent is often said to have been the main designer responsible for making more widely acceptable

1440-546: The Nexis database, the abbreviation FLOTUS (pronounced / ˈ f l ə ʊ t ɪ s / ) was first used in 1983 by Donnie Radcliffe, writing in The Washington Post . Several women (at least thirteen) who were not presidents' wives have served as first lady, as when the president was a bachelor or widower, or when the wife of the president was unable to fulfill the duties of the first lady herself. In these cases,

1520-596: The Shah of Iran . In 1960, Saint Laurent found himself conscripted to serve in the French Army during the Algerian War . Neri Karra writes that there was speculation at the time that Marcel Boussac , the owner of the House of Dior and a powerful press baron, had put pressure on the government not to conscript Saint Laurent in 1958 and 1959, but after the disastrous Fall 1958 season, reversed course and asked that

1600-450: The War of 1812 . Madison set the standard for the ladyship and her actions were the model for nearly every first lady until Eleanor Roosevelt in the 1930s. Roosevelt traveled widely and spoke to many groups, often voicing personal opinions to the left of the president's. She authored a weekly newspaper column and hosted a radio show. Jacqueline Kennedy led an effort to redecorate and restore

1680-408: The big-shoulder-pad looks that would dominate the 1980s, he relied on a restricted set of styles based largely on big-shouldered jackets and narrow skirts and trousers that didn't vary much during the decade, resulting in some fashion writers bemoaning the loss of his former inventiveness and others welcoming the familiarity. He was one of the last designers to give up big shoulder pads at

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1760-408: The haute couture line. However, Saint Laurent, whose health had been precarious for years, became erratic under the pressure of designing two haute couture and two prêt-à-porter collections every year. He increasingly turned to alcohol and drugs. At some shows, he could barely walk down the runway at the end of the show, and he had to be supported by models. Following his 1978 introduction of

1840-496: The prêt-à-porter line, opened on the rue de Tournon in the 6th arrondissement of Paris , on 26 September 1966. The first customer was Catherine Deneuve . He ended up doing many costumes for her in films such as Heartbeat , Mississippi Mermaid , and Love to Eternity . During the 1970s, Saint Laurent came to be considered the most prominent designer in the world, adapting his designs to modern women's needs. Even in his sometimes lavish Russian peasant collections of

1920-470: The 45 presidents of the United States have been males, and all have either had their wives, or a female hostess, assume the role of first lady. Thus, a male equivalent of the title of first lady has never been needed; in 2016, as Hillary Clinton became the first woman to win a major party's presidential nomination, questions were raised as to what her husband Bill would be titled if she were to win

2000-553: The Democratic presidential nominee in the 2024 presidential election . Had Harris' presidential campaign been successful, Emhoff would presumably have been granted this title. However, Harris lost the election, again rendering this a moot point. The position of the first lady is not an elected one and carries only ceremonial duties. Nonetheless, first ladies have held a highly visible position in American society. The role of

2080-671: The First Lady is an entity of the White House Office, a branch of the Executive Office of the President . When First Lady Hillary Clinton decided to pursue a run for Senator of New York, she set aside her duties as first lady and moved to Chappaqua, New York , to establish state residency. She resumed her duties as first lady after winning her senatorial campaign, and retained her duties as both first lady and

2160-616: The First Lady's style had helped to enhance the public image of the office. Since the 1920s, many first ladies have become public speakers, adopting specific causes. It also became common for the First Lady to hire a staff to support her agenda. Recent causes of the First Lady are: Yves Saint Laurent (designer) Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008), better known as Yves Saint Laurent ( / ˌ iː v ˌ s æ̃ l ɔː ˈ r ɒ̃ / , also UK : /- l ɒ ˈ -/ , US : /- l oʊ ˈ -/ , French: [iv sɛ̃ lɔʁɑ̃] ) or YSL ,

2240-541: The Land , popularized the title further. By the 1930s, it was in wide use. Use of the title later spread from the United States to other nations. When Edith Wilson took control of her husband's schedule in 1919 after he had a debilitating stroke, one Republican senator labeled her "the Presidentress who had fulfilled the dream of the suffragettes by changing her title from First Lady to Acting First Man". According to

2320-473: The Land", referring to Mary Todd Lincoln . The title first gained nationwide recognition in 1877, when newspaper journalist Mary C. Ames referred to Lucy Webb Hayes as "the First Lady of the Land" while reporting on the inauguration of Rutherford B. Hayes . The frequent reporting on Lucy Hayes' activities helped spread use of the title outside Washington. A popular 1911 comedic play about Dolley Madison by playwright Charles Nirdlinger, titled The First Lady in

2400-525: The Ritz, and others. Many Dior staff joined him at his new enterprise. Saint Laurent and Bergé split romantically in 1976 but remained business partners. His debut collection, presented for spring 1962, included early examples of the cut-outs that would be popular in fashion in a few years,  but it received mixed reviews. His second collection, for fall 1962, was celebrated as his best since his 1958 Trapeze collection for Dior.  Fashion writers ranked

2480-490: The Trapeze line, a variation of Dior's 1955 A-Line, catapulted him to international stardom. Dresses in the collection featured a narrow shoulder that flared gently to a hem that just covered the knee. In his second collection for Dior, presented for fall 1958, he iconoclastically lowered hemlines by five inches and was not greeted with the same level of approval that his first collection received, with many considering it

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2560-410: The United States. In the early days of the republic, there was not a generally accepted title for the wife of the president. Many early first ladies expressed their own preference for how they were addressed, including the use of such titles as "Lady", "Mrs. President" and "Mrs. Presidentress"; Martha Washington was often referred to as "Lady Washington". One of the earliest uses of the term "First Lady"

2640-463: The White House, championship of social causes, and representation of the president at official and ceremonial occasions. Additionally, over the years individual first ladies have held influence in a range of sectors, from fashion to public opinion on policy, as well as advocacy for female empowerment . The use of the title First Lady to describe the spouse or hostess of an executive began in

2720-402: The White House. Many first ladies became significant fashion trendsetters. Some have exercised a degree of political influence by virtue of being an important adviser to the president. Over the course of the 20th century, it became increasingly common for first ladies to select specific causes to promote, usually ones that are not politically divisive. It is common for the first lady to hire

2800-596: The YSL boutiques in North America; French model Nicole Dorier, who became the director of his runway shows, and later, the "memory" of his house when it became a museum; and French model Laetitia Casta , who was the bride in his fashion shows in 1998–2001. In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living fashion designer to be honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a solo exhibition. In 2001, he

2880-530: The basis of my art. Whatever was to happen next, I never forgot the years I spent at his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's style continued to mature and gain even more notice. Dior hired him as an assistant and later named him his successor. In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a contest for young fashion designers organized by the International Wool Secretariat . Saint Laurent won first place. Subsequently, he

2960-702: The board of trustees of the National Cultural Center, the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts . Near the end of her husband's presidency , Hillary Clinton became the first first lady to seek political office, when she ran for United States Senate . During the campaign, her daughter Chelsea took over much of the first lady's role. Victorious, Clinton served as junior senator from New York from 2001 to 2009, when she resigned to become President Obama's secretary of state . Later, she

3040-552: The claim and the sculptures, heads of a rabbit and a rat, sold for €15,745,000. However, the anonymous buyer revealed himself to be Cai Mingchao, a representative of the PRC 's National Treasures Fund, and claimed that he would not pay for them on "moral and patriotic grounds". The heads remained in Bergé's possession until acquired by François Pinault , owner of many luxury brands including Yves Saint Laurent. He then donated them to China in

3120-487: The collection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art . Shaver believed that this would strengthen the American fashion industry and raised $ 350,000 from New York garment manufacturers to finance the transaction. The Costume Art museum became part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1946, becoming The Costume Institute but was independently run until 1959 when it became a curatorial department in the museum. The Met

3200-423: The collection was the main impetus for the move, which followed years of close collaboration between the two organizations. The collection of the Brooklyn museum is older, having been formed from private donations by former New York high society personalities, beginning with the donation in 1903 of an 1892 cream colored crepe dress worn by Kate Mallory Williams at her graduation from Brooklyn Heights Seminary. Prior to

3280-505: The collection with that of Givenchy as among the best in Paris.  It featured India-inspired evening dress, a mostly dark, rich color palette,  and a refinement of the bohemian influences seen in his fall 1960 Dior collection, evoking in many journalists' minds Paris's Left Bank . In the 1960s, Saint Laurent introduced or contributed to fashion trends such as the beatnik look (1962), pea coats (1962), thigh-high boots (1963, via his chosen shoe designer Roger Vivier ),

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3360-601: The company continued to produce plays on Broadway under the management of Helen F. Ingersoll. In 1928, with Rita Wallach Morganthau, the Lewisohns established the Neighborhood Playhouse School of the Theatre at East 54th Street, where it became an actor training school and students were offered a two-year program formal drama and dance training to become professionals. During their years of running

3440-478: The contributions of first ladies to the and American society. In 2008, "First Ladies at the Smithsonian" opened at the National Museum of American History as part of its reopening year celebration. That exhibition served as a bridge to the museum's expanded exhibition on first ladies' history that opened on November 19, 2011. "The First Ladies" explores the unofficial but important position of first lady and

3520-415: The daughter of a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish model, who became the jewelry designer for the brand; Betty Catroux , the half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat, who Saint Laurent considered his "twin sister"; French actress Catherine Deneuve ; French model Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain, who inspired the Le Smoking suit; American-French artist Niki de Saint Phalle , who also inspired

3600-669: The decision to sell the collection was taken because, without Saint Laurent, "it has lost the greater part of its significance", with the proceeds proposed for the creation of a new foundation for AIDS research . Before the sale commenced, the Chinese government tried to stop the sale of two of twelve bronze statue heads taken from the Old Summer Palace in China during the Second Opium War . A French judge dismissed

3680-402: The designer be conscripted so that he could be replaced. Saint Laurent was in the military for 20 days before the stress of hazing by fellow soldiers led to him being admitted to a military hospital, where he received news that he had been fired from Dior, to be replaced by Marc Bohan . This exacerbated his condition, and he was transferred to Val-de-Grâce military hospital , where he

3760-474: The election, rendering this a moot point. In 2021, Kamala Harris took office as vice president, making her husband Doug Emhoff the first male spouse of a nationally elected officeholder. Emhoff assumed the title of Second Gentleman of the United States ("gentleman" replacing "lady" in the title) making it likely that any future male spouse of a president will be given the title of first gentleman. Harris would later go on to replace President Joe Biden as

3840-657: The end of the eighties. After a disastrous 1987 prêt-à-porter show in New York City, which featured US$ 100,000 jeweled casual jackets only days after the "Black Monday" stock market crash , he turned over the responsibility of the prêt-à-porter line to his assistants. Although the line remained popular with his fans, it was soon dismissed as "boring" by the press. A favorite among his female clientele, Saint Laurent had numerous muses that inspired his work. Among them were: French model Victoire Doutreleau , who opened his first fashion show in 1962; Loulou de la Falaise ,

3920-562: The first auction, it featured the designer's last Mercedes-Benz car and his Hermès luggage. Forbes rated Saint Laurent the top-earning dead celebrity in 2009. In 2022, the "Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées" exhibition was held simultaneously at six Parisian cultural institutions, demonstrating the enduring legacy of his work and his lifelong fascination with art. This exhibition highlighted his connections to various art forms and his ability to blend fashion with artistic expression. His house in his hometown of Oran, where he lived until

4000-469: The first lady has evolved over the centuries. She is, first and foremost, the hostess of the White House. She organizes and attends official ceremonies and functions of state either along with, or in place of, the president. Lisa Burns identifies four successive main themes of the first ladyship: as public woman (1900–1929); as political celebrity (1932–1961); as political activist (1964–1977); and as political interloper (1980–2001). Martha Washington created

4080-577: The funeral service (in French): "But I also know that I will never forget what I owe you and that one day I will join you under the Moroccan palms." In February 2009, an auction of 733 items was held by Christie's at the Grand Palais , ranging from paintings by Picasso to ancient Egyptian sculptures. Saint Laurent and Bergé began collecting art in the 1950s. Before the sale, Bergé commented that

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4160-459: The healthcare system in the U.S.; Laura Bush supported women's rights groups, and encouraged childhood literacy. Michelle Obama became identified with supporting military families and tackling childhood obesity; and Melania Trump used her position to help children, including prevention of cyberbullying and support for those whose lives are affected by drugs. Since 1964, the incumbent and all living former first ladies are honorary members of

4240-494: The middle of the decade, the clothes themselves remained comfortable and wearable. He is credited with initiating in 1978 the prominently shoulder-padded styles that would characterize the 1980s. Many of his collections were positively received by both his fans and the press, such as the autumn 1966 collection, which introduced Le Smoking tailored tuxedo suit, and his 1965 Mondrian collection . Other collections raised controversy, such as his spring 1971 collection, which

4320-455: The move, 23,500 objects from the Brooklyn collection were digitized and these images are now shared by both organizations. At the time of the acquisition, the Met costume collection consisted of 31,000 objects from the 17th-century onwards. The opening exhibition in 2014 featured work by British-born designer Charles James , an important figure in New York fashion of the 1940s and 1950s and whose work

4400-464: The political and social life of the United States. The first lady of the United States is the hostess of the White House . Historically, when a president has been unmarried or a widower, he has usually asked a relative to act as White House hostess. While the household always had domestic staff, since the early 20th century, the first lady has been assisted by her event staff, which has grown over

4480-509: The position has been filled by a female relative of the president, such as Jefferson's daughter Martha Jefferson Randolph , Jackson's daughter-in-law Sarah Yorke Jackson and his wife's niece Emily Donelson , Taylor 's daughter Mary Elizabeth Bliss , Benjamin Harrison 's daughter Mary Harrison McKee , Buchanan's niece Harriet Lane , Chester A. Arthur 's sister Mary Arthur McElroy and Cleveland's sister Rose Cleveland . Each of

4560-482: The presidency. During the campaign, the title of First Gentleman of the United States was most frequently suggested for Bill Clinton, although as a former president himself, he might have been called "Mr. President". In addition, state governors' male spouses are typically called the first gentleman of their respective state (for example, Michael Haley was the first gentleman of South Carolina while his wife, Nikki , served as governor). Ultimately, Hillary Clinton lost

4640-686: The role and hosted many affairs of state at the national capital (New York and Philadelphia). This socializing became known as the Republican Court and provided elite women with opportunities to play backstage political roles. Both Martha Washington and Abigail Adams were treated as if they were "ladies" of the British royal court. Dolley Madison popularized the first ladyship by engaging in efforts to assist orphans and women, by dressing in elegant fashions and attracting newspaper coverage, and by risking her life to save iconic treasures during

4720-493: The school theatre and producing plays, a body of knowledge was formed about acting, theater production, and costume, set and stage design. In 1937, Irene Lewisohn opened a home for this library, the Museum of Costume Art, on Fifth Avenue. Aline Bernstein served as the first President and Polaire Weissman as its first executive director. After Irene Lewisohn's death in 1944, Lord & Taylor president Dorothy Shaver worked to bring

4800-603: The studio and designing accessories. Eventually he was allowed to submit sketches for the couture collection. With each passing season, more of his sketches were accepted by Dior. Some Dior collections from this period contain themes that would appear in Saint Laurent's independent work years later, such as the smock tops and safari jackets in Dior's 1957 "Libre" line. In August 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurent's mother to tell her that he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him as

4880-486: The study of the scriptures and devotion." According to popular belief, Dolley Madison was referred to as first lady in 1849 at her funeral in a eulogy delivered by President Zachary Taylor ; however, no written record of this eulogy exists, nor did any of the newspapers of her day refer to her by that title. Sometime after 1849, the title began being used in Washington, D.C., social circles. The first person to have

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4960-417: The title applied to her while she was actually holding the office was Harriet Lane , the niece of James Buchanan ; Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper used the phrase to describe her in an 1860 article about her duties as White House hostess. Another of the earliest known written examples comes from a November 3, 1863, diary entry of William Howard Russell , in which he referred to gossip about "the First Lady in

5040-399: The title was not in general use until much later, Martha Washington , the wife of George Washington , the first U.S. president (1789–1797), is the first First Lady of the United States. During her lifetime, she was often referred to as "Lady Washington". Since the 1900s, the role of first lady has changed considerably. It has come to include involvement in political campaigns, management of

5120-430: The unattractive utilitarianism of the time. The French newspaper France Soir called the spring 1971 collection "Une grande farce!" Criticism notwithstanding, Saint Laurent's influence was such that the collection did lead to some general fashion changes in shoulder and lapel shape and increased the popularity of tailored blazers. During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was considered one of Paris's " jet set ". He

5200-530: The ways that different women have shaped the role to make their own contributions to the presidential administrations and the nation. The exhibition features 26 dresses and more than 160 other objects, ranging from those of Martha Washington to Michelle Obama , and includes White House china , personal possessions and other objects from the Smithsonian's unique collection of first ladies' materials. Some first ladies have garnered attention for their dress and style. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis , for instance, became

5280-438: The wearing of pants by women. Yves Saint Laurent brought in new changes to the fashion industry in the 60s and the 70s. The French designer opened his prêt-à-porter house YSL Rive Gauche in 1967, where he was starting to shift his focus from haute couture to ready-to-wear. One of the purposes was to provide a wider range of fashionable styles being available to choose from in the market, as they were affordable and cheaper. He

5360-557: The years to include communications, personal, and program staff. Her office is now known as the Office of the First Lady and is headquartered in the East Wing of the White House . Jill Biden has served as the first lady of the United States since 2021, being the wife of the 46th president, Joe Biden . Jill Biden is also one of twelve second ladies to have gone on to become first ladies during their spouses' terms as president. While

5440-407: Was a French fashion designer who, in 1962, founded his eponymous fashion label . He is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designers of the twentieth century. He developed his style to accommodate the changes in fashion during that period. He approached his aesthetic from a different perspective by helping women find confidence by looking both comfortable and elegant at the same time. He

5520-466: Was a great admirer of Marcel Proust who had been a frequent guest of Gaston Gallimard , one of the previous owners of the villa. When they bought Château Gabriel , Saint Laurent and Bergé commissioned Jacques Grange to decorate it with themes inspired by Proust's Remembrance of Things Past . The prêt-à-porter line became extremely popular with the public if not with the critics and eventually earned many times more for Saint Laurent and Bergé than

5600-477: Was applied to her in an 1838 newspaper article that appeared in the St. Johnsbury Caledonian , the author, " Mrs. Sigourney ", discusses how Martha Washington had not changed, even after her husband George became president. She wrote that "The first lady of the nation still preserved the habits of early life. Indulging in no indolence, she left the pillow at dawn, and after breakfast, retired to her chamber for an hour for

5680-602: Was awarded the rank of Commander of the Légion d'Honneur by French President Jacques Chirac . Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and became increasingly reclusive. In 2007, he was awarded the rank of Grand officier de la Légion d'honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy . He also created a foundation with Bergé in Paris to trace the history of the house of YSL, complete with 15,000 objects and 5,000 pieces of clothing. Saint Laurent died on 1 June 2008 of brain cancer at his residence in Paris. According to The New York Times ,

5760-544: Was born on 1 August 1936, in Oran , Algeria , to French parents ( Pieds-Noirs ), Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. He grew up in a villa by the Mediterranean with his two younger sisters, Michèle and Brigitte. Saint Laurent liked to create intricate paper dolls , and by his early teen years, he was designing dresses for his mother and sisters. His talent was recognized when he won first place in

5840-609: Was given a Catholic funeral at Église Saint-Roch in Paris. The funeral attendees included the former Empress of Iran Farah Pahlavi , Bernadette Chirac , Catherine Deneuve , and President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife, Carla Bruni . His body was cremated , and his ashes were scattered in Marrakech , Morocco, in the Majorelle Garden , a residence and botanical garden that he owned with Bergé since 1980 and often visited to find inspiration and refuge. Bergé said at

5920-620: Was given large doses of sedatives and psychoactive drugs and subjected to electroshock therapy . Saint Laurent himself traced the origin of both his mental problems and his drug addictions to this time in hospital. After his release from the hospital in November 1960, Saint Laurent sued Dior for breach of contract and won. After a period of convalescence, he and his partner , industrialist Pierre Bergé , started their own fashion house, Yves Saint Laurent or YSL, with funds from American millionaire J. Mack Robinson , cosmetics company Charles of

6000-537: Was inspired by 1940s fashion. Though 1930s and '40s revival had been a trend among some London designers like Ossie Clark since the late sixties and although Saint Laurent had presented a few 1940s looks late in the previous year, for a designer of his stature to devote an entire couture collection to the 1940s raised some hackles. Some felt it romanticized the German occupation of France during World War II , which he did not experience, while others felt it brought back

6080-557: Was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in December. During his stay in Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff, editor-in-chief of the French edition of Vogue magazine and a connection to his father. Michel De Brunhoff, a considerate person who encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketches that Saint Laurent brought with him and suggested he should become a fashion designer. Saint Laurent eventually considered

6160-501: Was often seen at clubs in France and New York City, such as Regine's and Studio 54 , and was known to be both a heavy drinker and a frequent user of cocaine . When he was not actively supervising the preparation of a collection, he spent time at his villa in Marrakech , Morocco. In the late 1970s, he and Bergé bought a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer , near Deauville , France. Yves Saint Laurent

6240-549: Was the Democratic Party nominee for president in the 2016 election , but lost to Donald Trump . The Office of the First Lady of the United States is accountable to the first lady for her to carry out her duties as hostess of the White House, and is also in charge of all social and ceremonial events of the White House. The first lady has her own staff that includes a chief of staff, press secretary, White House social secretary , and chief floral designer . The Office of

6320-508: Was the Costume Institute's first exhibition focusing on a living designer since Yves Saint Laurent in 1983. First Lady of the United States The first lady of the United States ( FLOTUS ) is a title typically held by the wife of the president of the United States , concurrent with the president's term in office. Although the first lady's role has never been codified or officially defined, she figures prominently in

6400-412: Was the first French couturier to come out with a full prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) line; although Alicia Drake credits this move with Saint Laurent's wish to democratize fashion; others point out that other couture houses were preparing prêt-à-porter lines at the same time – the House of Yves Saint Laurent merely announced its line first. The first of the company's Rive Gauche stores, which sold

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