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114-538: Whithorn, an early trading centre, precedes the island of Iona by 150 years as a birthplace of Scottish Christianity. In 397, St Ninian established the first Christian mission north of Hadrian's Wall here, while the Roman legions still occupied Britain. He erected a small stone church known as the "Candida Casa", or White House, which was Scotland's first Christian building, and the first Christian settlement north of Hadrian's Wall. The church site quickly grew to prominence in

228-798: A century. In 1354, though in exile and without control of his ancestral lands, John, the MacDougall heir , quitclaimed any rights he had over Mull and Iona to the Lord of the Isles (though this had no meaningful effect at the time). When Robert's son, David II , became king, he spent some time in English captivity; following his release, in 1357, he restored MacDougall authority over Lorn. The 1354 quitclaim, which seems to have been an attempt to ensure peace in just such an eventuality, took automatic effect, splitting Mull and Iona from Lorn, and making it subject to

342-609: A church or other Christian place of worship in Scotland is a stub . You can help Misplaced Pages by expanding it . Iona Iona ( / aɪ ˈ oʊ n ə / ; Scottish Gaelic : Ì Chaluim Chille [ˈiː ˈxal̪ˠɪm ˈçiʎə] , sometimes simply Ì ) is an island in the Inner Hebrides , off the Ross of Mull on the western coast of Scotland . It is mainly known for Iona Abbey , though there are other buildings on

456-453: A more modern design and with the assistance of Highlands and Islands Enterprise many of the islands' populations have begun to increase after decades of decline. The discovery of substantial deposits of North Sea oil in 1965 and the renewables sector have contributed to a degree of economic stability in recent decades. For example, the Arnish yard has had a chequered history but has been

570-417: A number of 13th century ruins, including a church and cloister. By the 1760s little more of the nunnery remained standing than at present, though it is the most complete remnant of a medieval nunnery in Scotland. After a visit in 1773, the English writer Samuel Johnson remarked: He estimated the population of the village at 70 families or perhaps 350 inhabitants. In the 19th century, green-streaked marble

684-469: A permit under certain exemptions". Visitors will find the village, the shops, the post office, the cafe, the hotels and the abbey are all within walking distance. Bike hire is available at the pier, and on Mull. Taxi service is also available. Conde Nast Traveller recommends the island for its "peaceful atmosphere ... a popular place for spiritual retreats" but also recommends the "sandy beaches, cliffs, rocks, fields and bogs ... "wildflowers and birds such as

798-639: A result of his involvement in the Battle of Cul Dreimhne . Columba and twelve companions went into exile on Iona and founded a monastery there. The monastery was hugely successful and may have played a role in the conversion to Christianity of the Picts and Gaels of present-day Scotland in the late 6th century, and was certainly central to the conversion of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria in 635. Many satellite institutions were founded, and Iona became

912-575: A result of the 1266 Treaty of Perth . Although their contribution to the islands can still be found in personal and place names, the archaeological record of the Norse period is very limited. The best known find is the Lewis chessmen , which date from the mid 12th century. As the Norse era drew to a close, the Norse-speaking princes were gradually replaced by Gaelic-speaking clan chiefs including

1026-499: A significant employer in both the oil and renewables industries. The widespread immigration of mainlanders, particularly non-Gaelic speakers, has been a subject of controversy. Agriculture practised by crofters remained popular in the 21st century in the Hebrides; crofters own a small property but often share a large common grazing area. Various types of funding are available to crofters to help supplement their incomes, including

1140-517: A wealth of fine architectural detail and monuments of many periods. The enabling endowments, the core economic strength and life-blood of the Abbey came from successive Clan Donald Lords of the Isles and for 300 years were regularly confirmed, honoured, protected, increased and expanded. Endowments had "carta confirmations" and additional ones made by them during the 14th and 15th centuries as late as 1440 and 1485. Donald of Harlaw (1386-1421): "gave lands to

1254-537: Is "Columba".) This confusion would have arisen because ì , the original name of the island, would have been confused with the now-obsolete Gaelic noun ì , meaning "island", which was derived from the Old Norse word for island ( ey ). Eilean Idhe means "the isle of Iona", also known as Ì nam ban bòidheach ("the isle of beautiful women"). The modern English name comes from yet another variant, Ioua , which arose either from Adomnán 's 7th century attempt to make

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1368-510: Is 6 °C (44 °F) in January and 14 °C (57 °F) in the summer. The average annual rainfall in Lewis is 1,100 mm (43 in), and there are between 1,100 and 1,200 hours of sunshine per annum (13%). The summer days are relatively long, and May through August is the driest period. The earliest surviving written references to the islands were made circa 77 AD by Pliny

1482-524: Is not the only one." The Hebrides were settled during the Mesolithic era around 6500 BC or earlier, after the climatic conditions improved enough to sustain human settlement. Occupation at a site on Rùm is dated to 8590 ±95 uncorrected radiocarbon years BP , which is amongst the oldest evidence of occupation in Scotland. There are many examples of structures from the Neolithic period,

1596-647: Is set on the Isle of Skye, part of the Inner Hebrides. In some respects the Hebrides lack biodiversity in comparison to mainland Britain; for example, there are only half as many mammalian species. However, these islands provide breeding grounds for many important seabird species including the world's largest colony of northern gannets . Avian life includes the corncrake , red-throated diver , rock dove , kittiwake , tystie , Atlantic puffin , goldeneye , golden eagle and white-tailed sea eagle . The latter

1710-523: Is the largest island in Scotland and the third largest of the British Isles , after Great Britain and Ireland. It incorporates Lewis in the north and Harris in the south, both of which are frequently referred to as individual islands, although they are joined by a land border. The island does not have a single common name in either English or Gaelic and is referred to as "Lewis and Harris", "Lewis with Harris", "Harris with Lewis" etc. For this reason it

1824-597: Is the origin of the Gaelic for "Hirta", Hiort , Hirt , or Irt a name for the island that long pre-dates the name "St Kilda". Watson (1926) suggests that it may derive from the Old Irish word hirt ("death"), possibly a reference to the often lethally dangerous surrounding sea. Maclean (1977) notes that an Icelandic saga about an early 13th-century voyage to Ireland refers to "the islands of Hirtir ", which means "stags" in Norse, and suggests that

1938-814: Is treated as two separate islands below. The derivation of Lewis may be pre-Celtic (see above) and the origin of Harris is no less problematic. In the Ravenna Cosmography , Erimon may refer to Harris (or possibly the Outer Hebrides as a whole). This word may derive from the Ancient Greek : ἐρῆμος ( erimos "desert". The origin of Uist ( Old Norse : Ívist ) is similarly unclear. There are various examples of earlier names for Inner Hebridean islands that were Gaelic, but these names have since been completely replaced. For example, Adomnán records Sainea , Elena , Ommon and Oideacha in

2052-556: The Cenél Loairn (i.e. Lorn , as it was then). The island was the site of a highly important monastery (see Iona Abbey ) during the Early Middle Ages . The monastery was founded in 563 by the monk Columba , also known as Colm Cille, who sailed here from Ireland to live the monastic life. Much later legends (a thousand years later, and without any good evidence) said that he had been exiled from his native Ireland as

2166-573: The Crinan and Caledonian canals and other engineering works such as Clachan Bridge improved transport and access. However, in the mid-19th century, the inhabitants of many parts of the Hebrides were devastated by the Clearances , which destroyed communities throughout the Highlands and Islands as the human populations were evicted and replaced with sheep farms. The position was exacerbated by

2280-632: The Highland Clearances . Aonghas Phàdraig Caimbeul , raised on South Uist and described by MacLean as "one of the few really significant living poets in Scotland, writing in any language" ( West Highland Free Press , October 1992) wrote the Scottish Gaelic-language novel An Oidhche Mus do Sheòl Sinn which was voted in the Top Ten of the 100 Best-Ever Books from Scotland. Virginia Woolf's To The Lighthouse

2394-576: The Long Isle ( Scottish Gaelic : An t-Eilean Fada ). Today, they are also sometimes known as the Western Isles , although this phrase can also be used to refer to the Hebrides in general. The Hebrides have a cool, temperate climate that is remarkably mild and steady for such a northerly latitude , due to the influence of the Gulf Stream . In the Outer Hebrides, the average temperature

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2508-611: The MacLeods of Lewis and Harris, Clan Donald and MacNeil of Barra . This transition did little to relieve the islands of internecine strife although by the early 14th century the MacDonald Lords of the Isles , based on Islay, were in theory these chiefs' feudal superiors and managed to exert some control. The Lords of the Isles ruled the Inner Hebrides as well as part of the Western Highlands as subjects of

2622-504: The New Statistical Account and it may arise from a misunderstanding of the name Cladh nan Druineach , which means 'burial ground of the embroideresses or artificers' – a cemetery on the east shore of the island. He also repeats a Gaelic story (which he admits is apocryphal) that as Columba's coracle first drew close to the island one of his companions cried out "Chì mi i " meaning "I see her" and that Columba's response

2736-539: The Nunnery are here. The Abbey and MacLeod Centre are a short walk to the north. Port Bàn (white port) beach on the west side of the island is home to the Iona Beach Party. There are numerous offshore islets and skerries : Eilean Annraidh (island of storm) and Eilean Chalbha (calf island) to the north, Rèidh Eilean and Stac MhicMhurchaidh to the west and Eilean Mùsimul (mouse holm island) and Soa Island to

2850-466: The Small Isles . There are 36 inhabited islands in this group. The Outer Hebrides form a chain of more than 100 islands and small skerries located about 70 km (45 mi) west of mainland Scotland. Among them, 15 are inhabited. The main inhabited islands include Lewis and Harris , North Uist , Benbecula , South Uist , and Barra . A complication is that there are various descriptions of

2964-464: The druids nor the name of the island. The first written records of native life begin in the 6th century AD, when the founding of the kingdom of Dál Riata took place. This encompassed roughly what is now Argyll and Bute and Lochaber in Scotland and County Antrim in Ireland. The figure of Columba looms large in any history of Dál Riata, and his founding of a monastery on Iona ensured that

3078-716: The "Basic Payment Scheme, the suckler beef support scheme, the upland sheep support scheme and the Less Favoured Area support scheme". One reliable source discussed the Crofting Agricultural Grant Scheme (CAGS) in March 2020: the scheme "pays up to £25,000 per claim in any two-year period, covering 80% of investment costs for those who are under 41 and have had their croft less than five years. Older, more established crofters can get 60% grants". Many contemporary Gaelic musicians have roots in

3192-606: The 1800s, such as " Fear a' bhàta ", " Ailein duinn ", " Hùg air a' bhonaid mhòir " and " Alasdair mhic Cholla Ghasda ". Several of Runrig 's songs are inspired by the archipelago; Calum and Ruaraidh Dòmhnallach were raised on North Uist and Donnie Munro on Skye. The fiddle and violin company Skyinbow is named-after and based in Skye. Their instruments have been played by musicians such as Mairead Nesbitt , Cora Smyth and Eileen Ivers , and have been featured in productions such as Michael Flatley 's Lord of

3306-734: The 1870s and 1880s. This, and her powerful evocation of the Hebrides—she was from Skye—has made her among the most enduring Gaelic poets. Allan MacDonald (1859–1905), who spent his adult life on Eriskay and South Uist , composed hymns and verse in honour of the Blessed Virgin, the Christ Child, and the Eucharist. In his secular poetry, MacDonald praised the beauty of Eriskay and its people. In his verse drama , Parlamaid nan Cailleach ( The Old Wives' Parliament ), he lampooned

3420-533: The 1880s, the " Battle of the Braes " involved a demonstration against unfair land regulation and eviction, stimulating the calling of the Napier Commission . Disturbances continued until the passing of the 1886 Crofters' Act . The residents of the Hebrides have spoken a variety of different languages during the long period of human occupation. It is assumed that Pictish must once have predominated in

3534-544: The 8th century, and the Hebrides came under Norse control and settlement during the ensuing decades, especially following the success of Harald Fairhair at the Battle of Hafrsfjord in 872. In the Western Isles Ketill Flatnose may have been the dominant figure of the mid 9th century, by which time he had amassed a substantial island realm and made a variety of alliances with other Norse leaders. These princelings nominally owed allegiance to

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3648-545: The Abbey and other ecclesiastical properties and the marble quarry or to enjoy the nine beaches that are within walking distance of the main area. Not to be confused with the local island community, Iona (Abbey) Community is based within Iona Abbey. In 1938 George MacLeod founded the Iona Community, an ecumenical Christian community of men and women from different walks of life and different traditions in

3762-511: The Abbey, which still stands". Because the Hebrides have been successively occupied by speakers of several languages since the Iron Age , many of its islands' names have more than one possible meaning. Nonetheless, few, if any, have accumulated as many different names over the centuries as the island now known in English as "Iona". The place-name scholar William J. Watson has shown that

3876-616: The Augustinian nunnery, "the most complete nunnery complex to survive in Scotland". The nunnery was founded by Somerled's son, Reginald, as was Iona Abbey and Saddell Abbey. Reginald's sister, Beathag, was the first Prioress of the Iona Nunnery. The nunnery declined after the Scottish Reformation but was still used as a burial place for women. In front of the Abbey stands the 9th century St Martin's Cross, one of

3990-530: The Christian church committed to seeking new ways of living the Gospel of Jesus in today's world. This community is a leading force in the present Celtic Christian revival. The Iona Community runs three residential centres on the Isle of Iona and on Mull , where one can live together in community with people of every background from all over the world. Weeks at the centres often follow a programme related to

4104-504: The Dance , Feet of Flames , and Riverdance . The Gaelic poet Alasdair mac Mhaighstir Alasdair spent much of his life in the Hebrides and often referred to them in his poetry, including in An Airce and Birlinn Chlann Raghnaill . The best known Gaelic poet of her era, Màiri Mhòr nan Òran ( Mary MacPherson , 1821–98), embodied the spirit of the land agitation of

4218-578: The Duke of Argyll by Hugh Fraser in 1979 and donated to the National Trust for Scotland . In 2001 Iona's population was 125 and by the time of the 2011 census this had grown to 177 usual residents. During the same period Scottish island populations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702. The estimated permanent population in 2020 was 120. The island's tourism bureau estimated that roughly 130,000 visitors arrived each year. Many tourists come to visit

4332-627: The Elder in his Natural History : He states that there are 30 Hebudes , and makes a separate reference to Dumna , which Watson (1926) concluded refers unequivocally to the Outer Hebrides. About 80 years after Pliny the Elder, in 140–150 AD, Ptolemy (drawing on accounts of the naval expeditions of Agricola ) writes that there are five Ebudes (possibly meaning the Inner Hebrides) and Dumna . Later texts in classical Latin , by writers such as Solinus , use

4446-480: The Gaelic name fit Latin grammar, or spontaneously, as a derivative of Ivova ("yew place"). The change in the island's name from Ioua' to Iona , which is attested from c. 1274, resulted from a transcription error due to the similarity of "n" and "u" in Insular Minuscule script. Despite the continuity of forms in Gaelic from the pre-Norse to the post-Norse era, Haswell-Smith (2004) speculates that

4560-632: The Hebrides, including vocalist and multi-instrumentalist Julie Fowlis (North Uist), Catherine-Ann MacPhee (Barra), Kathleen MacInnes of the band Capercaillie (South Uist), and Ishbel MacAskill (Lewis). All of these singers have composed their own music in Scottish Gaelic, with much of their repertoire stemming from Hebridean vocal traditions, such as puirt à beul ("mouth music", similar to Irish lilting ) and òrain luaidh ( waulking songs ). This tradition includes many songs composed by little-known or anonymous poets, well-before

4674-429: The Inner Hebrides. These names presumably passed out of usage in the Norse era, and the locations of the islands they refer to are not clear. As an example of the complexity: Rona may originally have had a Celtic name, then later a similar-sounding Norse name, and then still later a name that was essentially Gaelic again, but with a Norse "øy" or "ey" ending. (See Rona , below.) The names of uninhabited islands follow

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4788-677: The King of Scots until John MacDonald , fourth Lord of the Isles, squandered the family's powerful position. A rebellion by his nephew, Alexander of Lochalsh provoked an exasperated James IV to forfeit the family's lands in 1493. In 1598, King James VI authorised some "Gentleman Adventurers" from Fife to civilise the "most barbarous Isle of Lewis". Initially successful, the colonists were driven out by local forces commanded by Murdoch and Neil MacLeod, who based their forces on Bearasaigh in Loch Ròg . The colonists tried again in 1605 with

4902-696: The Kings of Norway. This situation lasted until the partitioning of the Western Isles in 1156, at which time the Outer Hebrides remained under Norwegian control while the Inner Hebrides broke out under Somerled , the Norse-Gael kinsman of the Manx royal house. Following the ill-fated 1263 expedition of Haakon IV of Norway , the Outer Hebrides and the Isle of Man were yielded to the Kingdom of Scotland as

5016-567: The Lordship of the Isles. Iona remained part of the Lordship of the Isles for the next century and a half. Following the 1491 Raid on Ross , the Lordship of the Isles was dismantled, and Scotland gained full control of Iona for the second time. The monastery and nunnery continued to be active until the Reformation , when buildings were demolished and all but three of the 360 carved crosses destroyed. The Augustine nunnery now only survives as

5130-487: The Norse domination of the west coast of Scotland advanced, Iona became part of the Kingdom of the Isles . The Norse Rex plurimarum insularum Amlaíb Cuarán died in 980 or 981 whilst in "religious retirement" on Iona. Nonetheless, the island was sacked twice by his successors, on Christmas night 986 and again in 987. Although Iona was never again important to Ireland, it rose to prominence once more in Scotland following

5244-537: The Norwegian crown, although in practice the latter's control was fairly limited. Norse control of the Hebrides was formalised in 1098 when Edgar of Scotland formally signed the islands over to Magnus III of Norway . The Scottish acceptance of Magnus III as King of the Isles came after the Norwegian king had conquered Orkney , the Hebrides and the Isle of Man in a swift campaign earlier the same year, directed against

5358-564: The Ocean and Càrn Cùl ri Éirinn (the Hill/ Cairn of [turning the] Back to Ireland), said to be adjacent to the beach where St. Columba first landed. The main settlement, located at St. Ronan's Bay on the eastern side of the island, is called Baile Mòr and is also known locally as "The Village". The primary school, post office, the island's two hotels, the Bishop's House and the ruins of

5472-618: The Ross of Mull pluton cross the sound to the east. Numerous geological faults cross the island, many in an E-W or NW-SE alignment. Devonian aged micro diorite dykes are found in places and some of these are themselves cut by Palaeocene age camptonite and monchiquite dykes ascribed to the "Iona-Ross of Mull dyke swarm ". More recent sedimentary deposits of Quaternary age include both present day beach deposits and raised marine deposits around Iona as well as some restricted areas of blown sand. Iona lies about 2 kilometres (1 mile) from

5586-402: The archipelago's populations continued to dwindle throughout the late 19th century and for much of the 20th century. Lengthy periods of continuous occupation notwithstanding, many of the smaller islands were abandoned. There were, however, continuing gradual economic improvements, among the most visible of which was the replacement of the traditional thatched blackhouse with accommodation of

5700-518: The best-preserved Celtic crosses in the British Isles , and a replica of the 8th century St John's Cross (original fragments in the Abbey museum). The ancient burial ground, called the Rèilig Odhrain (Eng: Oran's "burial place" or "cemetery"), contains the 12th century chapel built by Somerled where the Lords of the Isles were buried and named after St Odhrán (said to be Columba 's uncle). It

5814-569: The centre of one of the most important monastic systems in Great Britain and Ireland. Iona became a renowned centre of learning, and its scriptorium produced highly important documents, probably including the original texts of the Iona Chronicle, thought to be the source for the early Irish annals . The monastery is often associated with the distinctive practices and traditions known as Celtic Christianity . In particular, Iona

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5928-495: The cloister arcade of the Abbey, and the Abbey museum (in the medieval infirmary). The ancient buildings of Iona Abbey are now cared for by Historic Environment Scotland (there is an entrance charge to visit them). The remains of a marble quarrying enterprise are present in a small bay on the south-east shore of Iona. The quarry is the source of "Iona Marble", a translucent green and white stone, much used in brooches and other jewellery. The stone has been known of for centuries and

6042-502: The coast of Mull . It is about 2 km (1 mi) wide and 6 km (4 mi) long with a resident population of 125. Like other places swept by ocean breezes, there are few trees; most of them are near the parish church. Iona's highest point is Dùn Ì, 101 m (331 ft), an Iron Age hill fort dating from 100 BC – A.D. 200. Iona's geographical features include the Bay at the Back of

6156-636: The concerns of the Iona Community. The 8 tonne Fallen Christ sculpture by Ronald Rae was permanently situated outside the MacLeod Centre in February 2008. Visitors can reach Iona by the 10 minute ferry trip across the Sound of Iona from Fionnphort on Mull . The most common route from the mainland is via Oban in Argyll and Bute , where regular ferries connect to Craignure on Mull, from where

6270-402: The decisive Battle of Culloden , which effectively ended Jacobite hopes of a Stuart restoration, was widely felt. The British government's strategy was to estrange the clan chiefs from their kinsmen and turn their descendants into English-speaking landlords whose main concern was the revenues their estates brought rather than the welfare of those who lived on them. This may have brought peace to

6384-440: The earliest recorded names of the island meant something like "yew-place". The element Ivo- , denoting " yew ", occurs in inscriptions in the ogham alphabet ( Iva-cattos [genitive], Iva-geni [genitive]) and in Gaulish names ( Ivo-rix , Ivo-magus ); it may also be the basis of early Gaelic names like Eógan (ogham: Ivo-genos ). The island's name may also be related to the name of a mythological figure, Fer hÍ mac Eogabail ,

6498-404: The early medieval period, becoming a cathedral and monastery , and remaining a centre for pilgrimage despite the unstable political situation in the region. At Whithorn, many monks were trained who later went into the missionary field to become famous apostles of Ireland and Alba, even as far north as the Orkney and Shetland islands. Saint Éogan , founder of the monastery of Ardstraw ,

6612-425: The early 8th century. Iona itself did not adopt the Roman system until 715, according to the Anglo-Saxon historian Bede . Iona's prominence was further diminished over the next centuries as a result of Viking raids and the rise of other powerful monasteries in the system, such as the Abbey of Kells . The Book of Kells may have been produced or begun on Iona towards the end of the 8th century. Around this time

6726-444: The eastern coast facing Mull are steeply dipping Neoproterozoic age metaconglomerates , metasandstones , meta mudstones and hornfelsed meta siltstones ascribed to the Iona Group , described traditionally as Torridonian . In the southwest and on parts of the west coast are pelites and semipelites of Archaean to Proterozoic age. There are small outcrops of Silurian age pink granite on southeastern beaches, similar to those of

6840-460: The economy of the islands is dependent on crofting , fishing, tourism , the oil industry, and renewable energy . The Hebrides have less biodiversity than mainland Scotland, but a significant number of seals and seabirds. The islands have a combined area of 7,285 km (2,813 sq mi), and, as of 2011 , a combined population of around 45,000. The Hebrides have a diverse geology , ranging in age from Precambrian strata that are amongst

6954-412: The end of the 19th century, there were significant populations of monolingual Gaelic speakers, and the Hebrides still contain the highest percentages of Gaelic speakers in Scotland. This is especially true of the Outer Hebrides, where a slim majority speak the language. The Scottish Gaelic college, Sabhal Mòr Ostaig , is based on Skye and Islay. Ironically, given the status of the Western Isles as

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7068-425: The establishment of the Kingdom of Scotland in the later 9th century; the ruling dynasty of Scotland traced its origin to Iona, and the island thus became an important spiritual centre for the new kingdom, with many of its early kings buried there. However, a campaign by Magnus Barelegs led to the formal acknowledgement of Norwegian control of Argyll, in 1098. Somerled , the brother-in-law of Norway's governor of

7182-461: The failure of the islands' kelp industry that thrived from the 18th century until the end of the Napoleonic Wars in 1815 and large scale emigration became endemic. As Iain Mac Fhearchair , a Gaelic poet from South Uist , wrote for his countrymen who were obliged to leave the Hebrides in the late 18th century, emigration was the only alternative to "sinking into slavery" as the Gaels had been unfairly dispossessed by rapacious landlords. In

7296-410: The finest example being the standing stones at Callanish , dating to the 3rd millennium BC. Cladh Hallan , a Bronze Age settlement on South Uist is the only site in the UK where prehistoric mummies have been found. In 55 BC, the Greek historian Diodorus Siculus wrote that there was an island called Hyperborea (which means "beyond the North Wind"), where a round temple stood from which

7410-435: The forms Hebudes and Hæbudes . The name Ebudes (used by Ptolemy) may be pre-Celtic. Ptolemy calls Islay " Epidion ", and the use of the letter "p" suggests a Brythonic or Pictish tribal name, Epidii , because the root is not Gaelic. Woolf (2012) has suggested that Ebudes may be "an Irish attempt to reproduce the word Epidii phonetically, rather than by translating it", and that

7524-556: The foster-son of Manannán , whose forename meaning "man of the yew". Coates (2006) disputes the "yew" interpretation due to a lack of archeological evidence for yew on the island. Coates instead compares the Punic term ’y ("island, isolated place"). Mac an Tàilleir (2003) has analyzed the more recent Gaelic names of Ì , Ì Chaluim Chille and Eilean Idhe . He notes that the name Ì was "generally lengthened to avoid confusion" to Ì Chaluim Chille , which means "Calum's Iona" or "island of Calum's monastery". ("Calum"'s latinized form

7638-404: The gossiping of his female parishioners and local marriage customs. In the 20th century, Murdo Macfarlane of Lewis wrote Cànan nan Gàidheal , a well-known poem about the Gaelic revival in the Outer Hebrides. Sorley MacLean , the most respected 20th-century Gaelic writer, was born and raised on Raasay , where he set his best known poem, Hallaig , about the devastating effect of

7752-402: The historical record is sparse. Hunter (2000) states that in relation to King Bridei I of the Picts in the sixth century: "As for Shetland, Orkney, Skye and the Western Isles, their inhabitants, most of whom appear to have been Pictish in culture and speech at this time, are likely to have regarded Bridei as a fairly distant presence." Viking raids began on Scottish shores towards the end of

7866-414: The island's exemplary high crosses were sculpted; these may be the first such crosses to contain the ring around the intersection that became characteristic of the " Celtic cross ". The series of Viking raids on Iona began in 794 and, after its treasures had been plundered many times, Columba's relics were removed and divided two ways between Scotland and Ireland in 849 as the monastery was abandoned. As

7980-428: The island's name may be connected with the Norse word Hiōe , meaning "island of the den of the brown bear". The medieval English-language version of the name was "Icolmkill" (and variants thereof). Murray (1966) claims that the "ancient" Gaelic name was Innis nan Druinich ("the isle of Druidic hermits"), but there is no evidence for the "ancient" use of such a name before the nineteenth century when it appears in

8094-400: The island. The C20, however, saw the greatest period of influence on landscape painting, in particular through the many paintings of the island produced by F. C. B. Cadell and S. J. Peploe , two of the " Scottish Colourists ". As with many artists, both professional and amateur, they were attracted by the unique quality of light, the white sandy beaches, the aquamarine colours of the sea and

8208-506: The island. Iona Abbey was a centre of Gaelic monasticism for three centuries and is today known for its relative tranquility and natural environment. It is a tourist destination and a place for spiritual retreats . Its modern Scottish Gaelic name means "Iona of (Saint) Columba " (formerly anglicised as "Icolmkill"). In 2019, Iona's estimated population was 120. In March 1980, the Hugh Fraser Foundation donated much of

8322-410: The islands, but in the following century it came at a terrible price. In the wake of the rebellion, the clan system was broken up and islands of the Hebrides became a series of landed estates. The early 19th century was a time of improvement and population growth. Roads and quays were built; the slate industry became a significant employer on Easdale and surrounding islands; and the construction of

8436-570: The kingdom would be of great importance in the spread of Christianity in northern Britain. However, Iona was far from unique. Lismore in the territory of the Cenél Loairn, was sufficiently important for the death of its abbots to be recorded with some frequency and many smaller sites, such as on Eigg , Hinba , and Tiree , are known from the annals. North of Dál Riata, the Inner and Outer Hebrides were nominally under Pictish control, although

8550-512: The landscape of rich greens and rocky outcrops. While Cadell and Peploe are perhaps best known, many major Scottish painters of the C20 worked on Iona and visited many times – for example George Houston , D. Y. Cameron , James Shearer , John Duncan and John Maclauchlan Milne, among many. Samuel Johnson wrote "That man is little to be envied whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plains of Marathon or whose piety would not grow warmer amid

8664-400: The last Gaelic-speaking stronghold in Scotland, the Gaelic language name for the islands – Innse Gall – means "isles of the foreigners"; from the time when they were under Norse colonisation. For those who remained, new economic opportunities emerged through the export of cattle, commercial fishing and tourism. Nonetheless, emigration and military service became the choice of many and

8778-502: The late 16th century. Haswell-Smith (2004) notes that the full name "St Kilda" first appears on a Dutch map dated 1666, and that it may derive from the Norse phrase sunt kelda ("sweet wellwater") or from a mistaken Dutch assumption that the spring Tobar Childa was dedicated to a saint. ( Tobar Childa is a tautological placename , consisting of the Gaelic and Norse words for well , i.e., "well well"). Similarly unclear

8892-492: The local Norwegian leaders of the various island petty kingdoms. By capturing the islands Magnus imposed a more direct royal control, although at a price. His skald Bjorn Cripplehand recorded that in Lewis "fire played high in the heaven" as "flame spouted from the houses" and that in the Uists "the king dyed his sword red in blood". The Hebrides were now part of the Kingdom of the Isles , whose rulers were themselves vassals of

9006-659: The local taxi. The island of Iona has played an important role in Scottish landscape painting, especially during the Twentieth Century. As travel to north and west Scotland became easier from the mid C18 on, artists' visits to the island steadily increased. The Abbey remains in particular became frequently recorded during this early period. Many of the artists are listed and illustrated in the valuable book, "Iona Portrayed – The Island through Artists' Eyes 1760–1960" , which lists over 170 artists known to have painted on

9120-472: The main island (and its off-lying islands) to the current owner, the National Trust for Scotland . The abbey and some church buildings are owned by the Iona Cathedral Trust. One publication, describing the religious significance of the island, says that the island is "known as the birthplace of Celtic Christianity in Scotland,” and notes that “St Columba came here in the year 563 to establish

9234-435: The main language of the entire Hebridean archipelago. Due to Scots and English being favoured in government and the educational system, the Hebrides have been in a state of diglossia since at least the 17th century. The Highland Clearances of the 19th century accelerated the language shift away from Scottish Gaelic, as did increased migration and the continuing lower status of Gaelic speakers . Nevertheless, as late as

9348-645: The mainland: the Inner and Outer Hebrides . These islands have a long history of occupation (dating back to the Mesolithic period), and the culture of the inhabitants has been successively influenced by the cultures of Celtic-speaking , Norse-speaking , and English-speaking peoples. This diversity is reflected in the various names given to the islands, which are derived from the different languages that have been spoken there at various points in their history. The Hebrides are where much of Scottish Gaelic literature and Gaelic music has historically originated. Today,

9462-501: The monastery of Iona, and every immunity which the monastery of Iona had from his ancestors before him" – MacVurich. It might be expressed that Iona Abbey had been acting as a "(holy owned) land trust" for Clan Donald from Somerled who built St. Oran's Chapel. The 8th Duke of Argyll presented the sacred buildings and sites of the island to the Iona Cathedral trust in 1899. Historic Environment Scotland also recommends visiting

9576-499: The monks may have come from France itself, bringing new technology and crafts with them. Whithorn and the surrounding area passed from Brythonic control to the Northumbrians . An Anglo-Saxon Diocese of Whithorn was established no later than c. 730. Later the area fell under Norse control before finally returning to celtic control by 1100, by which time the area was part of the Kingdom of Scots . The bishopric of Whithorn

9690-432: The moon appeared only a little distance above the earth every 19 years. This may have been a reference to the stone circle at Callanish. A traveller called Demetrius of Tarsus related to Plutarch the tale of an expedition to the west coast of Scotland in or shortly before 83 AD. He stated it was a gloomy journey amongst uninhabited islands, but he had visited one which was the retreat of holy men. He mentioned neither

9804-417: The name is not of Gaelic origin, and the Norse provenance is questionable. The earliest comprehensive written list of Hebridean island names was compiled by Donald Monro in 1549. This list also provides the earliest written reference to the names of some of the islands. The derivations of all the inhabited islands of the Hebrides and some of the larger uninhabited ones are listed below. Lewis and Harris

9918-474: The noblest work of God". Limited archaeological investigations commissioned by the National Trust for Scotland found some evidence for ancient burials in 2013. The excavations, conducted in the area of Martyrs Bay , revealed burials from the 6th–8th centuries, probably jumbled up and reburied in the 13–15th centuries. Other early Christian and medieval monuments have been removed for preservation to

10032-481: The northern Inner Hebrides and Outer Hebrides. The Scottish Gaelic language arrived from Ireland due to the growing influence of the kingdom of Dál Riata from the 6th century AD onwards, and became the dominant language of the southern Hebrides at that time. For a few centuries, the military might of the Gall-Ghàidheil meant that Old Norse was prevalent in the Hebrides. North of Ardnamurchan ,

10146-595: The old castle in Stornoway. With the implementation of the Treaty of Union in 1707, the Hebrides became part of the new Kingdom of Great Britain , but the clans' loyalties to a distant monarch were not strong. A considerable number of islesmen "came out" in support of the Jacobite Earl of Mar in the 1715 and again in the 1745 rising including Macleod of Dunvegan and MacLea of Lismore. The aftermath of

10260-781: The oldest rocks in Europe, to Paleogene igneous intrusions. Raised shore platforms in the Hebrides have been identified as strandflats , possibly formed during the Pliocene period and later modified by the Quaternary glaciations . The Hebrides can be divided into two main groups, separated from one another by the Minch to the north and the Sea of the Hebrides to the south. The Inner Hebrides lie closer to mainland Scotland and include Islay , Jura , Skye , Mull , Raasay , Staffa and

10374-399: The outline of the island of Hirta resembles the shape of a stag , speculating that therefore the name "Hirta" may be a reference to the island's shape. The etymology of the names of small islands may be no less complex and elusive. In relation to Dubh Artach , Robert Louis Stevenson believed that "black and dismal" was one translation of the name, noting that "as usual, in Gaelic, it

10488-507: The place names that existed prior to the 9th century have been all but obliterated. The Old Norse name for the Hebrides during the Viking occupation was Suðreyjar , which means "Southern Isles"; in contrast to the Norðreyjar , or " Northern Isles " of Orkney and Shetland . South of Ardnamurchan , Gaelic place names are more common, and after the 13th century, Gaelic became

10602-464: The quarry, with little quarrying after 1914 and the operation finally closed in 1919. A painting showing the quarry in operation, The Marble Quarry, Iona (1909) by David Young Cameron , is in the collection of Cartwright Hall art gallery in Bradford. The site has been designated as a Scheduled Ancient Monument. The island, other than the land owned by the Iona Cathedral Trust, was purchased from

10716-423: The rare corncrake and puffins" as well as the "abundance of sea life". The Iona Council advises visitors that they can find a campsite (at Cnoc Oran), a hostel (at Lagandorain), family run bed and breakfasts and two hotels on the island in addition to several self-catering houses. The agency also mentions that distances are short, with the Abbey a mere 10 minutes walk from the pier. Tourists can rent bikes or use

10830-547: The region (the King of the Isles ), launched a revolt and made the kingdom independent. A convent for Augustinian nuns was established in about 1208, with Bethóc , Somerled's daughter, as first prioress. The present buildings are of the Benedictine abbey , Iona Abbey , from about 1203, dissolved at the Reformation . On Somerled's death, nominal Norwegian overlordship of the Kingdom was re-established, but de facto control

10944-506: The roots of several other names for Hebrides islands may have a pre-Celtic origin. Adomnán , a 7th-century abbot of Iona, records Colonsay as Colosus and Tiree as Ethica , and both of these may be pre-Celtic names. The etymology of Skye is complex and may also include a pre-Celtic root. Lewis is Ljoðhús in Old Norse. Various suggestions have been made as to possible meanings of the name in Norse (for example, "song house"), but

11058-455: The ruins of Iona." Hebrides The Hebrides ( / ˈ h ɛ b r ɪ d iː z / HEB -rid-eez ; Scottish Gaelic : Innse Gall , pronounced [ˈĩːʃə ˈkaul̪ˠ] ; Old Norse : Suðreyjar , lit.   'Southern isles') are an archipelago off the west coast of the Scottish mainland. The islands fall into two main groups, based on their proximity to

11172-415: The same general patterns as the inhabited islands. (See the list, below, of the ten largest islands in the Hebrides and their outliers.) The etymology of the name "St Kilda" , a small archipelago west of the Outer Hebrides, and the name of its main island, " Hirta ," is very complex. No saint is known by the name of Kilda, so various other theories have been proposed for the word's origin, which dates from

11286-668: The same result, but a third attempt in 1607 was more successful and in due course Stornoway became a Burgh of Barony . By this time, Lewis was held by the Mackenzies of Kintail (later the Earls of Seaforth ), who pursued a more enlightened approach, investing in fishing in particular. The Seaforths' royalist inclinations led to Lewis becoming garrisoned during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms by Cromwell 's troops, who destroyed

11400-474: The scenic road runs 37 miles (60 kilometres) to Fionnphort. Tourist coaches and local bus services meet the ferries. Car ownership is lightly regulated, with no requirement for a MOT Certificate or payment of Road Tax for cars kept permanently on the island, but vehicular access is restricted to permanent residents and there are few cars. Visitors are not allowed to bring vehicles onto the island although "blue badge holders with restricted mobility ... may apply for

11514-430: The scope of the Hebrides. The Collins Encyclopedia of Scotland describes the Inner Hebrides as lying "east of the Minch". This definition would encompass all offshore islands, including those that lie in the sea lochs, such as Eilean Bàn and Eilean Donan , which might not ordinarily be described as "Hebridean". However, no formal definition exists. In the past, the Outer Hebrides were often referred to as

11628-399: The south are amongst the largest. The steamer Cathcart Park carrying a cargo of salt from Runcorn to Wick ran aground on Soa on 15 April 1912, the crew of 11 escaping in two boats. On a map of 1874, the following territorial subdivision is indicated (from north to south): In the early Historic Period Iona lay within the Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riata , in the region controlled by

11742-468: The tribe's name may come from the root epos , meaning "horse". Watson (1926) also notes a possible relationship between Ebudes and the ancient Irish Ulaid tribal name Ibdaig , and also the personal name of a king Iubdán (recorded in the Silva Gadelica ). The names of other individual islands reflect their complex linguistic history. The majority are Norse or Gaelic, but

11856-600: Was "Henceforth we shall call her Ì". The geology of Iona is quite complex given the island's size and quite distinct from that of nearby Mull. About half of the island's bedrock is Scourian gneiss assigned to the Lewisian complex and dating from the Archaean eon making it some of the oldest rock in Britain and indeed Europe. Closely associated with these gneisses are mylonite and meta-anorthosite and melagabbro. Along

11970-634: Was a major supporter of the "Celtic" system for calculating the date of Easter at the time of the Easter controversy , which pitted supporters of the Celtic system against those favoring the "Roman" system used elsewhere in Western Christianity. The controversy weakened Iona's ties to Northumbria, which adopted the Roman system at the Synod of Whitby in 664, and to Pictland, which followed suit in

12084-499: Was an Irishman who lived in the 6th century and was said to have been taken by pirates to Britain. On obtaining his freedom, he went to study at Candida Casa. Bishop Healy identifies the site with the great seminary of Rosnat , "...and undoubtedly was one of the chief sources from which Irish monasticism was derived." Pottery and glass from the Mediterranean and Western France reached this early Christian monastery and many of

12198-598: Was commercially mined in the south-east of Iona; the quarry and machinery survive, see "Marble Quarry remains" below. Iona Abbey, now an ecumenical church, is of particular historical and religious interest to pilgrims and visitors alike. It is the most elaborate and best-preserved ecclesiastical building surviving from the Middle Ages in the Western Isles of Scotland . Though modest in scale in comparison to medieval abbeys elsewhere in Western Europe , it has

12312-481: Was credited with healing and other powers. While the quarry had been used in a small way, it was not until around the end of the 18th century when it was opened up on a more industrial scale by the Duke of Argyle. The difficulties of extracting the hard stone and transporting it meant that the scheme was short lived. Another attempt was started in 1907, this time more successful with considerable quantities of stone extracted and indeed exported. The First World War impacted

12426-715: Was defeated by Bruce, the latter exiled the MacDougalls and transferred their island territories to the MacDonalds; by marrying the heir of the MacRorys , the heir of the MacDonalds re-unified most of Somerled's realm, creating the Lordship of the Isles , under nominal Scottish authority. Iona, which had been a MacDougall territory (together with the rest of Lorn), was given to the Campbells , where it remained for half

12540-559: Was re-established in 1128, and a new cathedral and adjoining priory were built on the site. The site fell into disrepair through the Scottish Reformation and beyond. "Whithorn Priory and Museum" encompasses the ruins and is maintained by Historic Environment Scotland . Adjoining this is "St Ninians's Priory", built in 1822 as the church of Whithorn Church of Scotland parish , and still in use As of 2017. 54°44′00″N 4°25′02″W  /  54.733391°N 4.417136°W  / 54.733391; -4.417136 This article about

12654-648: Was re-introduced to Rùm in 1975 and has successfully spread to various neighbouring islands, including Mull. There is a small population of red-billed chough concentrated on the islands of Islay and Colonsay . Red deer are common on the hills and the grey seal and common seal are present around the coasts of Scotland. Colonies of seals are found on Oronsay and the Treshnish Isles. The rich freshwater streams contain brown trout , Atlantic salmon and water shrew . Offshore, minke whales , orcas , basking sharks , porpoises and dolphins are among

12768-406: Was recorded. None of these graves are now identifiable (their inscriptions were reported to have worn away at the end of the 17th century). Saint Baithin and Saint Failbhe may also be buried on the island. The Abbey graveyard is also the final resting place of John Smith , the former Labour Party leader, who loved Iona. His grave is marked with an epitaph quoting Alexander Pope : "An honest man's

12882-409: Was restored at the same time as the Abbey itself. It contains a number of medieval grave monuments. The abbey graveyard is said to contain the graves of many early Scottish Kings , as well as Norse kings from Ireland and Norway. Iona became the burial site for the kings of Dál Riata and their successors. Notable burials there include: In 1549 an inventory of 48 Scottish, 8 Norwegian and 4 Irish kings

12996-533: Was split between Somerled's sons, and his brother-in-law. Following the 1266 Treaty of Perth the Hebrides were transferred from Norwegian to Scottish overlordship. At the end of the century, King John Balliol was challenged for the throne by Robert the Bruce . By this point, Somerled's descendants had split into three groups, the MacRory , MacDougalls , and MacDonalds . The MacDougalls backed Balliol, so when he

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