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140-512: Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1921. The scent formula for the fragrance was compounded by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux . The design of its bottle has been an important part of the product's branding. Coco Chanel was the first face of the fragrance, appearing in the advertisement published by Harper's Bazaar in 1937. Traditionally, fragrances worn by women fell into two basic categories. "Respectable women" favored

280-428: A " Nez " (French for nose ) due to their fine sense of smell and skill in smell composition. The composition of a perfume typically begins with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer. The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashion houses or large corporations of various industries. The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple perfume mixtures and sell

420-432: A $ 12 paper shopping bag—plain white with a red Campbell's soup can. His painting of a can of a Campbell's soup cost $ 1,500 while each autographed can sold for three for $ 18, $ 6.50 each. The exhibit was one of the first mass events that directly confronted the general public with both pop art and the perennial question of what art is. Warhol used assistants to increase his productivity and these collaborations would remain

560-538: A 1958 design for a book cover he submitted to Simon and Schuster for the Walter Ross pulp novel The Immortal , and later used others for his series of paintings. With the rapid expansion of the record industry , RCA Records hired Warhol, along with another freelance artist, Sid Maurer, to design album covers and promotional materials. As a commercial artist, Warhol worked with high-end advertising clients such as Tiffany & Co. In 1961 Warhol purchased

700-797: A 300-square-meter (3,230 sq ft) factory housing at least 60 stills, mixing bowls, funnels, and perfume bottles. In ancient times people used herbs and spices , such as almond , coriander , myrtle , conifer resin , and bergamot , as well as flowers . In May 2018, an ancient perfume "Rodo" (Rose) was recreated for the Greek National Archaeological Museum's anniversary show "Countless Aspects of Beauty", allowing visitors to approach antiquity through their olfaction receptors. Romans and Greek extracted perfumes from diverse sources such as flowers, woods, seeds, roots, saps, gums. A temple to Athena in Elis, near Olympia,

840-416: A Bachelor of Fine Arts in pictorial design in 1949. Later that year, he moved to New York City and began a career in magazine illustration and advertising. Warhol's early career was dedicated to commercial and advertising art, where his first commission had been to draw shoes for Glamour magazine in 1949. In the 1950s, Warhol worked as a designer for shoe manufacturer Israel Miller. While working in

980-521: A Brooks Brothers shirt and tie, DeNoyer blazer, and Levi jeans. As Warhol continued to forge into filmmaking, he had established himself as "one of the most celebrated and well-known pop art figures to emerge from the sixties." The Pasadena Art Museum in Pasadena organized a major retrospective of his work in 1970, which traveled in the United States and abroad. In 1971, the exhibition

1120-439: A brand signature, was created in 1924, when the bottle shape was changed. The 1950s gave the stopper a bevel cut and a larger, thicker silhouette. In the 1970s the stopper became even more prominent but, in 1986, it was re-proportioned so its size was more harmonious with the scale of the bottle. The "pocket flacon, " designed to be carried in a purse, was introduced in 1934. The price and container size were reduced to appeal to

1260-451: A broader customer base. The bottle, over the decades, has itself become an identifiable cultural artifact, so much so that Andy Warhol chose to commemorate its iconic status in the mid-1980s with his pop art , silk-screened, Ads: Chanel . A limited-edition, crimson red crystal glass bottle in the three editions of Chanel No. 5, namely Eau de Parfum , Parfum , and L'Eau , was launched for Christmas in 2018. In 1924, Chanel agreed with

1400-521: A dachshund, Archie (Bunker) Warhol, for Christmas in 1972. Warhol doted on Archie and took him everywhere: to the studio, parties, restaurants, and on trips to Europe. He created portraits of Archie, Johnson and Amos, a second dachshund they got a few years later. Warhol was visiting Europe more often in the early 1970s. He had a fondness for Paris, and by 1973 he had purchased an apartment on rue du Cherche-Midi on Paris' Left Bank . In 1974, Warhol and Johnson moved from his home on Lexington Avenue to

1540-558: A defining (and controversial) aspect of his working methods throughout his career. One of the most important collaborators during this period was Gerard Malanga . Malanga assisted the artist with the production of silkscreens, films, sculptures and other works at The Factory, Warhol's aluminum foil -and-silver-paint-lined studio on 47th Street. Other members of Warhol's Factory crowd included Freddie Herko , Ondine , Ronald Tavel , Mary Woronov , Billy Name , and Brigid Berlin . In November 1964, Warhol's first Flowers series exhibited at

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1680-670: A family of fresh, citrus-based fragrances distilled using extracts from citrus, floral, and woody ingredients. These "classical colognes" were supposedly first developed in Cologne, Germany , hence the name. This type of cologne, which is still in production, describes unisex compositions "which are basically citrus blends and do not have a perfume parent." Examples include Mäurer & Wirtz's 4711 (created in 1799), and Guerlain's Eau de Cologne Impériale (1830). "Toilet water," or eau de toilette, referred to wide range of scented waters not otherwise known as colognes, and were popular throughout

1820-539: A fragrance may have separate primary scents and supporting ingredients. The perfume's fragrance oils are then blended with ethyl alcohol and water, aged in tanks for several weeks and filtered through processing equipment to, respectively, allow the perfume ingredients in the mixture to stabilize and to remove any sediment and particles before the solution can be filled into the perfume bottles. Andy Warhol Andy Warhol ( / ˈ w ɔːr h ɒ l / ; born Andrew Warhola Jr. ; August 6, 1928 – February 22, 1987)

1960-403: A guide to the general consumer in description of the experience of a scent. Nonetheless, connoisseurs of perfume can become extremely skillful at identifying components and origins of scents in the same manner as wine experts. The most practical way to start describing a perfume is according to the elements of the fragrance notes of the scent or the "family" it belongs to, all of which affect

2100-629: A marginal figure in the Factory scene before to the shooting. She authored the SCUM Manifesto , a separatist feminist tract that advocated the elimination of men; and appeared in the Warhol film I, a Man (1967). Amaya received only minor injuries and was released from the hospital later the same day. Warhol was seriously wounded by the attack and barely survived and remained in the hospital for nearly two months. Solanas turned herself into

2240-429: A mix of water and ethanol. Various sources differ considerably in the definitions of perfume types. The intensity and longevity of a fragrance is based on the concentration, intensity, and longevity of the aromatic compounds, or perfume oils, used. As the percentage of aromatic compounds increases, so does the intensity and longevity of the scent. Specific terms are used to describe a fragrance's approximate concentration by

2380-497: A modern version of No. 5. [REDACTED] Media related to Chanel No. 5 at Wikimedia Commons Perfume Ancient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin , which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics. The word perfume

2520-411: A more concentrated product, typically a pure parfum, and is usually the lightest concentration from a line of fragrance products. The eau de parfum concentration and terminology is the most recent, being originally developed to offer the radiance of an EdT with the longevity of an extrait. Parfum de toilette and EdP began to appear in the 1970s and gained popularity in the 1980s. In the 21st century, EdP

2660-450: A new fragrance, "I present my dress collections on the fifth of May, the fifth month of the year and so we will let this sample number five keep the name it has already, it will bring good luck." Chanel envisioned a design that would be an antidote for the over-elaborate, precious fussiness of the crystal fragrance bottles then in fashion popularized by Lalique and Baccarat . Her bottle would be "pure transparency...an invisible bottle". It

2800-581: A new jasmine source, a commercial ingredient called Jasophore. The revamped, complex formula also increased the quantities of orris root , iris root, and natural musks. The key was Beaux's use of aldehydes . Aldehydes are organic compounds of carbon, oxygen and hydrogen. They are manipulated in the laboratory at crucial stages of chemical reaction whereby the process arrests and isolates the scent. When used creatively, aldehydes act as "seasonings", as aroma boosters. Beaux's student, Constantin Weriguine , said

2940-484: A perfume can be constructed from a concept. Although many ingredients do not contribute to the smell of a perfume, many perfumes include colorants and antioxidants to improve the marketability and shelf life of the perfume, respectively. Perfume oils usually contain tens to hundreds of ingredients and these are typically organized in a perfume for the specific role they will play. These ingredients can be roughly grouped into four groups: The top, middle, and base notes of

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3080-500: A profound effect on Warhol's life and art. He had physical effects for the rest of his life, including being required to wear a surgical corset . The Factory became more regulated and Warhol focused on making it a business enterprise. He credited his collaborator Paul Morrissey with transforming the Factory into a "regular office." In September 1968, Warhol hosted a party at the Factory for Nico 's album The Marble Index . Warhol and his superstars Viva and Ultra Violet appeared on

3220-500: A second advertising campaign for No. 5, this time starring Gisele Bündchen and Michiel Huisman . Throughout the film, singer Lo-Fang performs his rendition of You're the One That I Want . On 17 February 2020, French actress Marion Cotillard was announced as the new face of Chanel No. 5. Her first commercial for the fragrance was released on 29 October 2020. It was directed by Johan Renck and featured Cotillard dancing in

3360-588: A series of Elizabeth Taylor portraits, were shown at his second exhibition at the Ferus Gallery in Los Angeles. Later that year, Warhol relocated his studio to East 47th Street, which would turn into The Factory . The Factory became a popular gathering spot for a wide range of artists, writers, musicians and underground celebrities. Warhol had his second exhibition at the Stable Gallery in

3500-484: A sign in the window of her rue Cambon boutique, announcing that free bottles of Chanel No. 5 were available to American GIs. Soldiers waited in long lines to take a bottle of Paris luxe back home, and "would have been outraged if the French police had touched a hair on her head". In April 1952, American actress Marilyn Monroe appears for the first time on the cover of Life , and the article mentions her answer to

3640-425: A single aromatic material. The family classification is a starting point to describe a perfume, but does not fully characterize it. The traditional categories which emerged around 1900: Since 1945, new categories have emerged to describe modern scents, due to great advances in the technology of compound design and synthesis, as well as the natural development of styles and tastes: This newer classification method

3780-509: A solvent, though this is not always the case, and its necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume-oil dilution is alcohol, typically a mixture of ethanol and water or a rectified spirit . Perfume oil can also be diluted by means of neutral-smelling oils such as fractionated coconut oil , or liquid waxes such as jojoba oil and almond oil . The conventional application of pure perfume (parfum extrait) in Western cultures

3920-424: A source of essential oils and aroma compounds. These aromatics are usually secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores , infections, as well as to attract pollinators . Plants are by far the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery. The sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant. A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance

4060-616: A strong blend. Rose water was more delicate, and immediately became popular. Both the raw ingredients and the distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry . There is a controversy on whether perfumery was completely lost in Western Europe after the fall of the Western Roman Empire . That said, the art of perfumery in Western Europe

4200-466: A successful children's book illustrator. Warhol had an older sister, Maria, who died in infancy in Austria-Hungary. In third grade, Warhol had Sydenham's chorea (also known as St. Vitus' Dance), the nervous system disease that causes involuntary movements of the extremities, which is believed to be a complication of scarlet fever which causes skin pigmentation blotchiness. At times when he

4340-474: A temperament of its own, a sort of sly, Toulouse-Lautrec kind of sophistication, but the shape and the style came through accurately and the buckle was always in the right place. The kids in the apartment [which Andy shared in New York – note by Coplans] noticed that the vamps on Andy's shoe drawings kept getting longer and longer but [Israel] Miller didn't mind. Miller loved them." In 1952, Alexander Iolas

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4480-707: A townhouse at 1342 Lexington Avenue in Carnegie Hill , which he also used as his art studio. In 1962, Warhol was taught silkscreen printmaking techniques by Max Arthur Cohn at his graphic arts business in Manhattan. In his book Popism: The Warhol Sixties , Warhol writes: "When you do something exactly wrong, you always turn up something". In May 1962, Warhol was featured in an article in Time with his painting Big Campbell's Soup Can with Can Opener (Vegetable) (1962), which initiated his most sustained motif,

4620-690: A townhouse at 57 East 66th Street in Manhattan's Lenox Hill neighborhood. In May 1975, Warhol attended President Gerald Ford 's state dinner in honor of the Shah of Iran , Mohammad Reza Pahlavi , at the White House . In 1975, Warhol published The Philosophy of Andy Warhol (From A to B & Back Again) . In September 1975, he went on an eight-city U.S. book tour, followed by stops in Italy, France, and England. In 1976, Warhol and painter Jamie Wyeth were commissioned to paint each other's portraits by

4760-620: A wheel. In this scheme, Chanel No.5 , traditionally classified as an aldehydic floral, is placed under the Soft Floral sub-group, while amber scents are within the Oriental group. Chypre perfumes are more ambiguous, having affinities with both the Oriental and Woody families. For instance, Guerlain Mitsouko is under Mossy Woods, but Hermès Rouge , a more floral chypre, is under Floral Oriental. Plants have long been used in perfumery as

4900-440: A wider range of customers. As this process accelerated, perfume houses borrowed the term "cologne" to refer to an even more diluted interpretation of their fragrances than eau de toilette. Guerlain , for example, offered an eau de cologne version of its flagship perfume Shalimar and many of its other fragrances. In contrast to a classical eau de cologne, this type of modern cologne is a lighter, less concentrated interpretation of

5040-476: Is applied to those sold to men. The actual product worn by a woman may be an eau de parfum rather than an extrait, or by a man an eau de toilette rather than an eau de cologne. The reasons why the terms "perfume" and "cologne" are often used in a generic sense is related to the modern development of perfumery in Europe since the 18th century. The term "cologne" was first used in Europe in the 18th century to refer to

5180-405: Is behind the ears, at the nape of the neck, under the armpits and at the insides of wrists, elbows and knees, so that the pulse point will warm the perfume and release fragrance continuously. According to perfumer Sophia Grojsman behind the knees is the ideal point to apply perfume in order that the scent may rise. The modern perfume industry encourages the practice of layering fragrance so that it

5320-609: Is credited as discovering Andy Warhol, and he organized first solo show at the Hugo Gallery in New York. Although that show was not well received, by 1956 Warhol was included in his first group exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art , New York. In 1956, Warhol traveled around the world with his friend, production designer Charles Lisanby, studying art and culture in several countries. Warhol's "whimsical" ink drawings of shoe advertisements figured in some of his earliest showings at

5460-636: Is derived from the Latin perfumare , meaning "to smoke through". Perfumery, as the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia , Egypt , the Indus Valley civilization and possibly Ancient China . It was further refined by the Romans and the Muslims. One of the world's first-recorded chemists is considered to be a woman named Tapputi , a perfume maker mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from

5600-462: Is generally considered that the bottle design was inspired by the rectangular beveled lines of the Charvet toiletry bottles, which, outfitted in a leather traveling case, were favored by her lover, Arthur "Boy" Capel . Some say it was the whiskey decanter he used that she admired and wished to reproduce in "exquisite, expensive, delicate glass". The first bottle produced in 1922, differed from

5740-410: Is probably the most widespread strength concentration. It is often the first concentration offered when a new fragrance is launched, and usually referred to generically as "perfume." Historically, women's fragrances tended to have higher levels of aromatic compounds than men's fragrances. Fragrances marketed to men were typically sold as EdT or EdC, rarely as EdP or perfume extracts. This is changing in

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5880-490: Is released in different intensities depending upon the time of the day. Lightly scented products such as bath oil, shower gel, and body lotion are recommended for the morning; eau de toilette is suggested for the afternoon; and perfume applied to the pulse points for evening. Cologne fragrance is released rapidly, lasting around 2 hours. Eau de toilette lasts from 2 to 4 hours, while perfume may last up to six hours. A variety of factors can influence how fragrance interacts with

6020-442: Is to affect customers through their sense of smell and entice them into purchasing the perfume or perfumed product. As such there is significant interest in producing a perfume formulation that people will find aesthetically pleasing. The job of composing perfumes that will be sold is left up to an expert on perfume composition or known in the fragrance industry as the perfumer . They are also sometimes referred to affectionately as

6160-528: Is what I was waiting for. A perfume like nothing else. A woman's perfume, with the scent of a woman." According to Chanel, the formula used to produce No. 5 has changed little since its creation, except for the necessary exclusion of natural civet and certain nitro-musks . The Eau de Parfum, though, is a different fragrance from the Parfum and the Eau de Toilette, and was composed in the eighties by Jacques Polge as

6300-440: Is widely used in contemporary perfumes. Synthetic aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources. For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that can be inexpensively synthesized from terpenes . Orchid scents (typically salicylates ) are usually not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to match

6440-468: Is widely used in retail and the fragrance industry, created in 1983 by the perfume consultant Michael Edwards . The new scheme simplifies classification and naming, as well as showing the relationships among the classes. The five main families are Floral , Oriental , Woody , Aromatic Fougère , and Fresh , the first four from the classic terminology and the last from the modern oceanic category. Each of these are divided into subgroups and arranged around

6580-488: The Bodley Gallery in New York in 1957. Warhol habitually used the expedient of tracing photographs projected with an epidiascope . Using prints by Edward Wallowitch , his "first boyfriend", the photographs would undergo a subtle transformation during Warhol's often cursory tracing of contours and hatching of shadows. Warhol used Wallowitch's photograph Young Man Smoking a Cigarette ( c.  1956 ) for

6720-731: The Campbell's soup can. That painting became Warhol's first to be shown in a museum when it was exhibited at the Wadsworth Atheneum in Hartford in July 1962. On July 9, 1962, Warhol's exhibition opened at the Ferus Gallery in Los Angeles with Campbell's Soup Cans , marking his West Coast debut of pop art . In November 1962, Warhol had an exhibition at Eleanor Ward's Stable Gallery in New York. The exhibit included

6860-527: The Carnegie Institute of Technology in Pittsburgh, where he studied commercial art . During his time there, Warhol joined the campus Modern Dance Club and Beaux Arts Society. He also served as art director of the student art magazine, Cano , illustrating a cover in 1948 and a full-page interior illustration in 1949. These are believed to be his first two published artworks. Warhol earned

7000-530: The Leo Castelli Gallery in New York. In May 1965, his second Flowers series, which had more sizes and color variation that the previous, was shown at Galerie Ileana Sonnabend in Paris. During this trip Warhol announced that he was retiring from art to focus on film. From the 1960s to the 1970s, Warhol also groomed a retinue of bohemian and counterculture eccentrics upon whom he bestowed

7140-463: The alembic (which still bears its Arabic name. [from Greek ἄμβιξ, "cup", "beaker"] described by Synesius in the 4th century ). The Persian chemist Ibn Sina (also known as Avicenna ) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation , the procedure most commonly used today. He first experimented with the rose . Until his discovery, liquid perfumes consisted of mixtures of oil and crushed herbs or petals, which made

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7280-803: The experimental rock band the Velvet Underground . After surviving an assassination attempt by radical feminist Valerie Solanas in June 1968, Warhol focused on transforming The Factory into a business enterprise. He founded Interview magazine and authored numerous books, including The Philosophy of Andy Warhol (1975) and Popism: The Warhol Sixties (1980). He also hosted the television series Fashion (1979–80), Andy Warhol's TV (1980–83), and Andy Warhol's Fifteen Minutes (1985–87). Warhol died of cardiac arrhythmia , aged 58, after gallbladder surgery in February 1987. Warhol has been

7420-682: The most expensive paintings ever sold . In 2013, Silver Car Crash (Double Disaster) (1963) sold for $ 105 million, setting a record for the artist. In 2022, Shot Sage Blue Marilyn (1964) sold for $ 195 million, which is the highest price paid at auction for a work by an American artist. Warhol was born on August 6, 1928, in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. He was the fourth child of Ondrej Warhola (Americanized as Andrew Warhola Sr.; 1889–1942) and Julia Warhola ( née Zavacká, 1891–1972). His parents were working-class Rusyn emigrants from Mikó , Austria-Hungary (now called Miková, located in today's northeastern Slovakia ). Warhol's father emigrated to

7560-608: The silkscreen paintings Campbell's Soup Cans (1962) and Marilyn Diptych (1962), the experimental film Chelsea Girls (1966), and the multimedia events known as the Exploding Plastic Inevitable (1966–67). Born and raised in Pittsburgh , Warhol initially pursued a successful career as a commercial illustrator in the 1950s. After exhibiting his work in art galleries , he began to receive recognition as an influential and controversial artist in

7700-684: The 100th anniversary of the Battle of Borodino , a decisive battle in the Napoleonic Wars . Its success inspired Beaux to create a feminine counterpart, whose starting point was the chemical composition of aldehydic multiflores in Houbigant 's immensely popular fragrance, Quelques Fleurs (1912). His experiments with the aldehydes in Quelques Fleurs , resulted in a fragrance that he called Le Bouquet de Catherine . He intended to use

7840-410: The 14th century, grew into a major industry in the south of France. Between the 16th and 17th centuries, perfumes were used primarily by the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from infrequent bathing. In 1693, Italian barber Giovanni Paolo Feminis created a perfume water called Aqua Admirabilis, today best known as eau de cologne ; his nephew Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni Maria Farina) took over

7980-569: The 16th century the personal perfumer to Catherine de' Medici (1519–1589), René the Florentine (Renato il fiorentino), took Italian refinements to France. His laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret passageway, so that no formulae could be stolen en route. Thanks to Rene, France quickly became one of the European centers of perfume and cosmetics manufacture. Cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in

8120-408: The 1960s, revealing Warhol's connections to a diverse range of artistic scenes during this time. Less well known was his support and collaboration with several teenagers during this era, who would achieve prominence later in life, including writer David Dalton , photographer Stephen Shore and artist Bibbe Hansen (mother of pop musician Beck ). The experimental rock group The Velvet Underground

8260-467: The 1960s. His New York studio, The Factory , became a well-known gathering place that brought together distinguished intellectuals, drag queens , playwrights, bohemian street people, Hollywood celebrities and wealthy patrons. He directed and produced several underground films starring a collection of personalities known as Warhol superstars , and is credited with inspiring the widely used expression " 15 minutes of fame ." Warhol managed and produced

8400-440: The 19th century. The term "perfume" emerged in the late 19th century. The first fragrance labeled a "parfum" extract with a high concentration of aromatic compounds was Guerlain's Jicky in 1889. In the first half of the 20th century, fragrance companies began offering their products in more than one concentration, often pairing an extrait with a lighter eau de toilette suitable for day wear, which made their products available to

8540-708: The 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia. She distilled flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics , then filtered and put them back in the still several times. On the Indian subcontinent , perfume and perfumery existed in the Indus civilization (3300 BC – 1300 BC). In 2003, archaeologists uncovered what are believed to be the world's oldest surviving perfumes in Pyrgos , Cyprus . The perfumes dated back more than 4,000 years. They were discovered in an ancient perfumery,

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8680-519: The Chanel No. 5 bottle known today. The original container had small, delicate, rounded shoulders and was sold only in Chanel boutiques to select clients. In 1924, when "Parfums Chanel" incorporated, the glass proved too thin to survive shipping and distribution. The bottle was modified with square, faceted corners, its only significant design change. In a 1924 marketing brochure, Parfums Chanel described

8820-647: The Coe Kerr Gallery in Manhattan. In January 1977, Warhol traveled to Kuwait for the opening of his exhibition at the Dhaiat Abdulla Al Salem Gallery. In June 1977, Warhol was invited to a special reception honoring the "Inaugural Artists" who had contributed prints to the Jimmy Carter presidential campaign . In 1977, Warhol was commissioned by art collector Richard Weisman to create Athletes , ten portraits consisting of

8960-507: The EdT from the 1950s, and the EdP was not developed until the 1980s). In some cases, words such as extrême , intense , or concentrée that might indicate a higher aromatic concentration are actually completely different fragrances, related only because of a similar perfume accord . An example of this is Chanel's Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur concentrée . This complexity adds a layer of nuance to

9100-487: The Film as "a two-minute trailer ... for a film that has actually never been made, not about Chanel No. 5 but Chanel No. 5 is the touchstone". The eventual commercial, produced in two-minute and 30-second versions, cost £18 million, with Kidman paid US$ 3.7 million for her work. It has been estimated, as of 2011, that between US$ 20–25 million was spent annually marketing Chanel No. 5. In May 2012,

9240-551: The French town of Grasse , remained uninterrupted by war. Thomas was later promoted to position as president of Chanel US, a position he held for thirty-two years. Chanel escalated her game plan by instigating a lawsuit against Parfums Chanel and the Wertheimers. The legal battle garnered wide publicity. The New York Times reported on 3 June 1946: The suit asks that the French parent concern [Les Parfums Chanel] be ordered to cease manufacture and sale of all products bearing

9380-463: The Nazi seizure of all Jewish-owned property and businesses, providing Chanel with the opportunity to gain control of Parfums Chanel and its most profitable product, Chanel No. 5. The Wertheimers were Jewish, and Chanel used her position as an "Aryan" to petition German officials to legalize her right to sole ownership. On 5 May 1941, Chanel wrote to the government administrator charged with ruling on

9520-467: The United States in 1912 and worked in a coal mine. His wife joined him in Pittsburgh in 1921. The family lived at 55 Beelen Street and later at 3252 Dawson Street in the Oakland neighborhood of Pittsburgh. They were Ruthenian Catholic and attended St. John Chrysostom Byzantine Catholic Church . Warhol had two elder brothers—Paul (1922–2014) and John (1925–2010). Paul's son, James Warhola , became

9660-510: The Wertheimer brothers Pierre and Paul, directors of the perfume house Bourgeois , creating a new corporate entity , Parfums Chanel. The Wertheimers agreed to manage the production, marketing, and distribution of Chanel No. 5. The Wertheimers would receive a 70 percent share of the company, and Rheophile Bader , founder of the Paris department store Galeries Lafayette , would receive 20 percent. Bader had been instrumental in brokering

9800-414: The Wertheimers and Chanel came to an agreement, re-negotiating the original 1924 contract. On 17 May 1947, Chanel received her share of the wartime profits of Chanel No. 5. Post-war, her share was two percent of all Chanel No. 5 sales worldwide. Her earnings were in the vicinity of US$ 25 million a year, making her at the time one of the richest women in the world. The new arrangement also gave Chanel

9940-420: The Wertheimers had recruited H. Gregory Thomas as a European emissary for Parfums Chanel. Thomas' mission was to establish the mechanisms required to maintain the quality of Chanel products, particularly its most profitable fragrance, Chanel No. 5. Thomas worked to ensure that the supply of key components, the oils of jasmine and tuberose , obtained exclusively from the fields of the valley of Siagne above

10080-449: The ad, all the bottles were indistinguishable from each another, displaying all the Chanel perfumes available, Numbers 9, 11, 22, and the centerpiece of the line, No. 5. This was the extent of the advertising campaign in the 1920s and appeared only intermittently. In the US, the sale of Chanel No. 5 was promoted at perfume counters in high-end department stores. The Galeries Lafayette was

10220-435: The aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each other. Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petitgrain , neroli , and orange oils . Many modern perfumes contain synthesized odorants. Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature. For instance, Calone , a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine scent that

10360-457: The aldehyde Beaux used had the clean note of the Arctic, "a melting winter note". A laboratory assistant, mistaking a full strength mixture for a ten percent dilution, had jolted the compound with a quantity of aldehyde never before used. Beaux prepared ten glass vials for Chanel's assessment. Numbered 1–5 and 20–24, each group a variation of the compound. "Number five. Yes," Chanel said later, "that

10500-572: The aromatic compounds, which either change their odor character or renders them odorless. Although fragrant extracts are known to the general public as the generic term " essential oils ", a more specific language is used in the fragrance industry to describe the source, purity, and technique used to obtain a particular fragrant extract. Of these extracts, only absolutes , essential oils , and tinctures are directly used to formulate perfumes. Products from different extraction methods are known under different names even though their starting materials are

10640-569: The basis for his silkscreen portraits when he resumed painting in the 1970s. In late 1969, Warhol and British journalist John Wilcock founded Interview magazine. Compared to the success and scandal of Warhol's work in the 1960s, the early 1970s were much quieter years, as he became more entrepreneurial. He was generally regarded as quiet, shy and a meticulous observer. Art critic Robert Hughes called him "the white mole of Union Square ". His fashion evolved from what Warhol called his "leather look" to his " Brook Brothers look," which included

10780-423: The bottle as, "the perfection of the product forbids dressing it in the customary artifices. Why rely on the art of the glassmaker...Mademoiselle is proud to present simple bottles adorned only by...precious teardrops of perfume of incomparable quality, unique in composition, revealing the artistic personality of their creator." Others claim that the bottle's design was inspired by a whiskey bottle, while some say that

10920-513: The business connection by introducing Chanel to Pierre Wertheimer at the Longchamps races in 1922. For 10 percent of the stock, Chanel licensed her name to Parfums Chanel. She removed herself from involvement in all business operations. Later, unhappy with the arrangement, Chanel worked for more than twenty years to gain full control of Parfums Chanel. She said that Pierre Wertheimer was "the bandit who screwed me." World War II brought with it

11060-520: The business in 1732. By the 18th century the Grasse region of France, Sicily , and Calabria (in Italy) were growing aromatic plants to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, Italy and France remain the center of European perfume design and trade . Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typically ethanol or

11200-455: The case. Different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes. Therefore, although the oil concentration of a perfume in EdP dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in EdT from within a company's same range, the actual amount will vary among companies. An EdT from one house may have a higher concentration of aromatic compounds than an EdP from another. Furthermore, some fragrances with

11340-484: The cathedral for daily prayers were laid out in circular patterns repeating the number five. Her affinity for the number five commingled with the abbey gardens, and by extension the lush surrounding hillsides abounding with Cistus (rock roses). In 1920, when presented with small glass vials containing sample scents numbered 1 to 5 and 20 to 24 for her assessment, she chose the fifth vial. Chanel told her master perfumer, Ernest Beaux, whom she had commissioned to develop

11480-494: The company announced that Brad Pitt would be the first male to advertise Chanel No. 5. In 2013 Chanel ran an advertising campaign using a recorded interview with Marilyn Monroe in which she is asked about her use of Chanel No. 5. It featured Ed Feingersh 's photograph of the actress splashing herself with a bottle of the perfume. On her first cover of Life magazine in 1952, Marilyn Monroe famously said she wore only Chanel No. 5 to bed. A recording of her discussing

11620-654: The cover of the November 10, 1968, issue of The New York Times Magazine . In 1969, Warhol and his entourage traveled to Los Angeles to discuss a prospective movie deal with Columbia Pictures . Warhol, who has always had an interest in photography, used a Polaroid camera to document his recuperation after the shooting. In 1969, some of his photographs were published in Esquire magazine. He would become well known for always carrying his Polaroid camera to chronicle his encounters. Eventually, he used instant photography as

11760-471: The designation " superstars ", including Edie Sedgwick , Nico , International Velvet , Viva , Ultra Violet , Joe Dallesandro , Candy Darling , Holly Woodlawn , Jackie Curtis and Jane Forth . These people all participated in the Factory films, and some—like Berlin—remained friends with Warhol until his death. Important figures in the New York underground art/cinema world, such as writer John Giorno and filmmaker Jack Smith , also appear in Warhol films of

11900-402: The disposition of Jewish financial assets. Her grounds for proprietary ownership were based on the claim that Parfums Chanel "is still the property of Jews" and had been legally "abandoned" by the owners. I have an indisputable right of priority … the profits that I have received from my creations since the foundation of this business … are disproportionate … [and] you can help to repair in part

12040-442: The energy and quirky aesthetic of the youth culture. Two catch phrases alternated as ad copy: "Every woman alive wants Chanel No. 5" and "Every woman alive loves Chanel No. 5". In the 1970s, the brand needed revitalization. For the first time it ran the risk of being labeled as "mass market" and passé. The fragrance was removed from drug stores and similar outlets. Outside advertising agencies were dropped. The rebranding

12180-408: The essence of a single garden flower while sexually provocative indolic perfumes heavy with animal musk or jasmine were associated with women of the demi-monde , prostitutes , or courtesans . Chanel sought a new scent that would appeal to the flapper and celebrate the seemingly liberated feminine spirit of the 1920s . At the age of twelve, Chanel was handed over to the care of nuns, and for

12320-565: The film was too long, there were technical problems." In 1967, Warhol established Factory Additions for his printmaking and publishing enterprise. In February 1968, Warhol's first solo museum exhibition was mounted at the Moderna Museet in Stockholm. 1968 assassination attempt On June 3, 1968, radical feminist writer Valerie Solanas shot Warhol and Mario Amaya , art critic and curator, at The Factory. Solanas had been

12460-491: The first retailer of the fragrance in Paris. In France itself, Chanel No. 5 was not advertised until the 1940s. The first solo advertisement for Chanel No. 5 ran in The New York Times on 10 June 1934. In the early 1940s, when other perfume makers were increasing brand exposure, Parfums Chanel took a contrary track and decreased advertising. In 1939 and 1940, Chanel ads had been prominent. By 1941, there

12600-448: The formulation to the customer, often with modifications of the composition of the perfume. The perfume composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance ( shampoos , make-up , detergents , car interiors, etc.), or marketed and sold directly to the public as a fine fragrance . Although there is no single "correct" technique for the formulation of a perfume, there are general guidelines as to how

12740-412: The fragrance components presented as a fragrance pyramid , using imaginative and abstract terms for the components listed. The grouping of perfumes can never be completely objective or definitive. Many fragrances contain aspects of different families. Even a perfume designated as "single flower" will have subtle undertones of other aromatics. There are hardly any true unitary-scent perfumes consisting of

12880-532: The fragrant compounds found in various orchids. One of the most commonly used classes of synthetic aromatics by far are the white musks . These materials are found in all forms of commercial perfumes as a neutral background to the middle notes. These musks are added in large quantities to laundry detergents in order to give washed clothes a lasting "clean" scent. The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies . They include: Each of these companies patents several processes for

13020-529: The freedom to create new scents, which would be independent of Parfums Chanel, with the proviso that none would contain the number 5 in its name. She never acted on this opportunity. Chanel's initial marketing strategy was to generate buzz for her new fragrance by hosting a promotional event. She invited a group of elite friends to dine with her in an elegant restaurant in Grasse where she surprised and delighted her guests by spraying them with Chanel No. 5. The official launch place and date of Chanel No. 5

13160-592: The home. As a result, Andalusian women used perfumes for courtship. Recipes of perfumes from the monks of Santa Maria Delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella of Florence , Italy, were recorded from 1221. In the east, the Hungarians produced around 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution – best known as Hungary Water – at the behest of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary . The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in

13300-478: The immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume. The scents in the top and middle notes are influenced by the base notes; conversely, the scents of the base notes will be altered by the types of fragrance materials used as middle notes. Manufacturers who publish perfume notes typically do so with

13440-448: The inspiration was drawn from glass pharmaceutical vials. In choosing the design for her perfume's bottle, was looking for something simple, even clinical, to stand apart from the overstated designs customarily seen on the perfume counter. Unlike the bottle, which has remained the same since the 1924 redesign, the stopper has gone through numerous modifications. The original stopper was a small glass plug. The octagonal stopper, which became

13580-559: The leading athletes of the day. The opening of Studio 54 in 1977 ushered in a new era in New York City nightlife. Warhol would often socialize at Studio 54 and take note of the drug-fueled activities that his friends engaged in at parties. In 1977, Warhol began taking nude photographs of men in various poses and performing sexual acts—referred to as "landscapes"—for what became known as the Torsos and Sex Parts series. Most of

13720-421: The main house on the property in 1972. Lee Radziwill , Jackie Kennedy , The Rolling Stones , Elizabeth Taylor , Halston , and John Lennon were among the estate's notable guests. Although Warhol was considered to be apolitical, he participated in an exhibition with the poster Vote McGovern (1972) in effort to raise funds for George McGovern 's 1972 presidential campaign . In October 1972, his work

13860-423: The men were street hustlers and male prostitutes brought to the Factory by Halston's lover Victor Hugo . This caused tension in Warhol's relationship with Johnson who did not approve of his friendship with Hugo. "When Studio 54 opened things changed with Andy. That was New York when it was at the height of its most decadent period, and I didn't take part. I never liked that scene, I was never comfortable. ... Andy

14000-403: The modern fragrance world, especially as fragrances are becoming more unisex. Women's fragrances used to be common in all levels of concentration, but in the 21st century are mainly seen in EdP and EdT concentrations. Many modern perfumes are never offered in extrait or eau de cologne formulations, and EdP and EdT account for the vast majority of new launches. Perfume oils are often diluted with

14140-547: The moon with French ballet dancer Jérémie Bélingard while singing a cover of Lorde 's " Team ". Coco Chanel had wanted to develop a distinctly modern fragrance for some time prior to early-1920. At this time, Chanel's lover was Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich Romanov of Russia , the murderer of Rasputin . The duke introduced her to Ernest Beaux on the French Riviera . Beaux was the master perfumer at A. Rallet and Company, where he had been employed since 1898. The company

14280-432: The name and restore to her the ownership and sole rights over the products, formulas and manufacturing process [on grounds of] "inferior quality". The Wertheimers were aware of Chanel's collaboration during the Nazi occupation. Forbes magazine summarized the Wertheimers' dilemma: "[Pierre Wertheimer worries that] a legal fight might illuminate Chanel's wartime activities and wreck her image—and his business". Ultimately,

14420-503: The next six years spent a stark, disciplined existence in a convent orphanage, Aubazine , founded by 12th-century Cistercians in what is now the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of central France . From her earliest days there, the number five had potent associations for her. For Chanel, the number five was especially esteemed as signifying the pure embodiment of a thing, its spirit, its mystic meaning. The paths that led Chanel to

14560-409: The overall impression of a perfume from first application to the last lingering hint of scent. The trail of scent left behind by a person wearing perfume is called its sillage , after the French word for " wake ", as in the trail left by a boat in water. Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes , making the harmonious scent accord . The notes unfold over time, with

14700-403: The percent of perfume oil in the volume of the final product. The most widespread terms are: The wide range in the percentages of aromatic compounds that may be present in each concentration means that the terminology of extrait, EdP, EdT, and EdC is quite imprecise with regard to oil concentration. Although an EdP will often be more concentrated than an EdT and in turn an EdC, this is not always

14840-548: The perfume, as Rallet N°1 was unsuccessful, and the outbreak of World War I in 1914 effectively killed the product. Beaux, who had affiliated himself with the Allies and the White Russian army, had spent 1917–1919 as a lieutenant stationed far north, in the last Arctic outpost of the continent, Arkangelsk , at Mudyug Island Prison where he interrogated Bolshevik prisoners. The polar ice, frigid seascape, and whiteness of

14980-429: The pocket flaçon . The plan was now to grow the market by selling the perfume at military post exchanges . It was a risky move that might have damaged the allure of the brand. But it did not: instead, it became a souvenir soldiers coveted for their sweetheart back home. At the end of World War II, Coco Chanel's wartime collaboration threatened her with arrest and incarceration. In an attempt at damage control, she placed

15120-545: The police a few hours after the attack and said that Warhol "had too much control over my life." She was subsequently diagnosed with paranoid schizophrenia and eventually sentenced to three years in prison. Jed Johnson , one of the helpers at the Factory, had been a witness to the shooting. During Warhol's hospitalization, Johnson visited him regularly and they developed a deep relationship. Subsequently, Johnson moved in with Warhol to help him recuperate and care for his mother Julia Warhola. The assassination attempt had

15260-563: The prejudices I have suffered in the course of these seventeen years. Chanel was not aware that the Wertheimers, anticipating the forthcoming Nazi confiscations, had, in May 1940, legally turned control of Parfums Chanel over to a Christian, French businessman and industrialist Felix Amit . At the end of World War II, Amit returned Parfums Chanel to the Wertheimers. By the mid-1940s, the worldwide sales of Chanel No. 5 amounted to nine million dollars annually. The monetary stakes were high, and Chanel

15400-413: The production of aromatic synthetics annually. Natural and synthetics are used for their different odor characteristics in perfumery Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained. Synthetic odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purified. Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from

15540-556: The production, marketing, and distribution of the fragrance business. Chanel wanted to spread the sale of Chanel No. 5 from beyond her boutiques to the rest of the world. The first new market was New York City. The initial marketing was discreet and deliberately restricted. The first ad appeared in The New York Times on 16 December 1924. It was a small ad for Parfums Chanel announcing the Chanel line of fragrances available at Bonwit Teller , an upscale department store. In

15680-511: The question, "What do you wear to bed?" and her reply, "Chanel No. 5." In an unpublished photo shoot for an article by Sidney Skolsky in Modern Screen in 1953, a Chanel No. 5 bottle is seen on her nightstand. In the 1960s, the glossy fashion magazines such as Vogue and Bazaar presented Chanel No. 5 as a required accessory. Print advertising for Chanel No. 5 was staid and conservative in both visuals and text, eschewing

15820-423: The raw materials. The results of the extraction are either essential oils , absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product. All these techniques will, to a certain extent, distort the odor of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials. This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process which will denature

15960-504: The same product name but having a different concentration may not only differ in their dilutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether. For instance, in order to make the EdT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EdP, the EdT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or fewer base notes. Chanel No. 5 is a good example: its parfum, EdP, EdT, and now-discontinued EdC concentrations are in fact different compositions (the parfum dates to 1921,

16100-467: The same silhouette of the bottle." In the 1990s, more money was reportedly spent advertising Chanel No. 5 than was spent for the promotion of any other fragrance. Carole Bouquet was the face of Chanel No. 5 during this decade. In 2003, actress Nicole Kidman was enlisted to represent the fragrance. Film director Baz Luhrmann , brought in to conceive and direct a new advertising campaign featuring her, described his concept for what he titled No. 5

16240-459: The same. For instance, orange blossoms from Citrus aurantium that have undergone solvent extraction produces "orange blossom absolute" but that which have been steam distilled is known as "neroli oil". Perfume compositions are an important part of many industries ranging from the luxury goods sectors, food services industries, to manufacturers of various household chemicals. The purpose of using perfume or fragrance compositions in these industries

16380-531: The scent to celebrate, in 1913, the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty. The debut of this new perfume was ill-timed commercially. World War I was approaching, and the tsarina and the perfume's namesake, the Empress Catherine, had both been German-born. Timing and unfavorable associations, combined with Le Bouquet de Catherine' s hefty price tag, made it a commercial failure. An attempt to re-brand

16520-439: The shoe industry, Warhol developed his "blotted line" technique, applying ink to paper and then blotting the ink while still wet, which was akin to a printmaking process on the most rudimentary scale. His use of tracing paper and ink allowed him to repeat the basic image and also to create endless variations on the theme. American photographer John Coplans recalled that "nobody drew shoes the way Andy did. He somehow gave each shoe

16660-436: The size of the box. A pivotal event was The American Supermarket exhibition at Paul Bianchini's Upper East Side gallery in late 1964. The show was presented as a typical small supermarket environment, except that everything in it—from the produce, canned goods, meat, posters on the wall, etc.—was created by prominent pop artists of the time, among them sculptor Claes Oldenburg , Mary Inman and Bob Watts . Warhol designed

16800-495: The snowy terrain sparked his desire to capture the crisp fragrance of this landscape in a new perfume. Beaux perfected what was to become Chanel No. 5 over several months in the late summer and autumn of 1920. He worked from the rose and jasmine base of Rallet N°1 , altering it to make it cleaner, more daring, reminiscent of the polar freshness he had experienced during his war years. He experimented with modern synthetics, adding his own invention "Rose E.B." and notes derived from

16940-439: The spring of 1964, which featured sculptures of commercial boxes stacked and scattered throughout the space to resemble a warehouse. For the exhibition, Warhol custom ordered wooden boxes and silkscreened graphics onto them. The sculptures— Brillo Box , Del Monte Peach Box , Heinz Tomato Ketchup Box , Kellogg's Cornflakes Box , Campbell's Tomato Juice Box and Mott's Apple Juice Box —sold for $ 200 to $ 400 depending on

17080-411: The subject further with Georges Belmont for Marie Claire in 1960 has been found. She said people pose questions. "They ask me: 'What do you wear to bed? A pajama top? The bottoms of the pajamas? A nightgown?' So I said, 'Chanel No. 5', because it's the truth" she explained. "And yet, I don't want to say nude. But it's the truth!" In October 2014, Luhrmann again collaborated with Chanel, creating

17220-433: The subject of numerous retrospective exhibitions , books, and documentary films. The Andy Warhol Museum in his native city of Pittsburgh, which holds an extensive permanent collection of art and archives, is the largest museum in the United States dedicated to a single artist. Warhol has been described as the " bellwether of the art market". His artwork is regarded as extremely collectible and valuable. His work include

17360-550: The tone for his reception. In 1963, Warhol formed The Druds , a short-lived avant-garde noise band that included notable figures from the New York minimal art and proto- conceptual art scenes, including Larry Poons , La Monte Young , Walter De Maria , Jasper Johns , Claes Oldenberg , and Lucas Samaras . In January 1963, Warhol rented his first studio—an old firehouse at 159 East 87th Street—where he created his Elvis series, which included Eight Elvises (1963) and Triple Elvis (1963). These portraits, along with

17500-454: The understanding and appreciation of perfumery, where variations in concentration and formulation can significantly alter the olfactory ("the sense of smell") experience. The terms "perfume" and "cologne" lead to much confusion in English. "Perfume" is often used as a generic, overarching term to refer to fragrances marketed to women, regardless of their exact concentration. The term "cologne"

17640-577: The wearer's own physiology and affect the perception of the fragrance. Diet is one factor, as eating spicy and fatty foods can increase the intensity of a fragrance. The use of medications can also impact the character of a fragrance. The relative dryness of the wearer's skin is important, since dry skin will not hold fragrance as long as skin with more oil. The precise formulae of commercial perfumes are kept secret . Even if they were widely published, they would be dominated by such complex ingredients and odorants that they would be of little use in providing

17780-585: The works Gold Marilyn , eight of the classic Marilyn series also named Flavor Marilyns , Marilyn Diptych , 100 Soup Cans , 100 Coke Bottles , and 100 Dollar Bills . Gold Marilyn was bought by the architect Philip Johnson and donated to the Museum of Modern Art. In December 1962, New York City's Museum of Modern Art hosted a symposium on pop art, during which artists such as Warhol were attacked for "capitulating" to consumerism. Critics were appalled by Warhol's open acceptance of market culture, which set

17920-407: Was almost no Chanel print advertising. Fragrance sales flourished during World War II. Perfume sales in the United States from 1940 to 1945 increased tenfold; Chanel No. 5 prospered, even without advertising. During the war years the directors of Parfums Chanel came up with an innovative marketing idea. Expanding sales to the middle-class customer had been started in 1934 with the introduction of

18060-438: Was an American visual artist, film director and producer. A leading figure in the pop art movement, Warhol is considered one of the most important artists of the 20th century. His works explore the relationship between artistic expression, advertising, and celebrity culture that flourished by the 1960s, and span a variety of media, including painting, sculpture, photography, and filmmaking. Some of his best-known works include

18200-427: Was an inferior product that she could no longer endorse. Further, Chanel announced she would make available an authentic Chanel No. 5, to be named "Mademoiselle Chanel No. 5", offered to a group of select clients. Chanel may have been unaware that the Wertheimers, who had fled from France to New York in 1940, had instituted a process whereby the quality of Chanel No. 5 would not be compromised. In America,

18340-450: Was confined to bed, he drew, listened to the radio and collected pictures of movie stars around his bed. Warhol later described this period as very important in the development of his personality, skill-set and preferences. When Warhol was 13, his father died in an accident. As a teenager, Warhol graduated from Schenley High School in 1945, and also won a Scholastic Art and Writing Award . After graduating from high school, he enrolled at

18480-407: Was determined to wrest control of Parfums Chanel from the Wertheimers. Chanel planned to destroy customer confidence in the brand and tarnish its image, crippling its marketing and distribution. She stated that Chanel No. 5 was no longer the original fragrance created by "Mademoiselle Chanel," it was no longer being compounded according to her standards, and what was now being offered to the public

18620-446: Was in her rue Cambon  [ fr ] boutique in the fifth month of the year, on the fifth day of the month: 5 May 1921. She infused the shop's dressing rooms with the scent, and she gave bottles to a select few of her high society friends. The success of Chanel No. 5 was immediate. Chanel's friend Misia Sert exclaimed: "It was like a winning lottery ticket." Parfums Chanel was the corporate entity established in 1924 to run

18760-783: Was included in the inaugural show at the Art Museum of South Texas in Corpus Christi, Texas . Between 1972 and 1973, Warhol created a series of portraits of Chinese Communist leader Mao Zedong with funding from two New York galleries, Knoedler & Co. and the Leo Castelli Gallery, as well as art collector Peter Brant . In February 1974, some of the Mao portraits were installed at the Musée Galliera in Paris. Warhol and his longtime partner Jed Johnson got

18900-406: Was managed by Jacques Helleu, the artistic director for Parfums Chanel. Helleu chose French actress Catherine Deneuve as the new face of Chanel. Print ads showcased the iconic sculpture of the bottle. Television commercials were inventive mini-films with production values of surreal fantasy and seduction. Directed by Ridley Scott in the 1970s and 1980s, they "played on the same visual imagery, with

19040-940: Was mounted at the Tate Gallery in London and the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York. The Whitney show distinctly featured Warhol's Cow Wallpaper (1966) as the backdrop for his paintings. In May 1971, Warhol's first and only theater production, Andy Warhol's Pork , opened at the La MaMa Experimental Theatre in New York. In August 1971, it was brought to the Roundhouse in London. In 1971, Warhol and his business partner Paul Morrissey purchased Eothen, an oceanfront estate in Montauk, New York on Long Island . They began renting

19180-701: Was reinvigorated after the Islamic invasion of Spain and Southern Italy in 711 and 827. The Islamic controlled cities of Spain ( Al-Andalus ) became major producers of perfumes that were traded throughout the Old World . Like in the ancient world, Andalusians used fragrance in devotion to God. Perfumes added a layer of cleanliness that was needed for their devotion. Andalusian women were also offered greater freedoms than women in other Muslim controlled regions and were allowed to leave their homes and socialize outside. This freedom allowed courtship to occur outside of

19320-639: Was said to have saffron blended into its wall plaster, allowing the interior to remain fragrant for 500 years. In the 9th century the Arab chemist Al-Kindi (Alkindus) wrote the Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations , which contained more than a hundred recipes for fragrant oils , salves , aromatic waters, and substitutes or imitations of costly drugs. The book also described 107 methods and recipes for perfume-making and perfume-making equipment, such as

19460-448: Was taken on by Warhol around the end of 1965. In his capacity as their manager, he included them as a key component of his Exploding Plastic Inevitable multimedia performances in 1966 and 1967, and he funded their debut album, The Velvet Underground & Nico (1967). Warhol intended to present the film Chelsea Girls (1966) at the 1967 Cannes Film Festival , but it wasn't shown because "the festival authorities explained that

19600-583: Was the official perfumer to the Russian imperial family, and "the imperial palace at St. Petersburg was a famously perfumed court." The favorite scent of the Tsarina Alexandra, composed specifically for her by Rallet in Moscow, had been an eau de cologne opulent with rose and jasmine named Rallet O-De-Kolon N°1 Vesovoi . In 1912, Beaux created a men's cologne, Le Bouquet de Napoleon , to commemorate

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