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145-589: The sport of climbing evolved by climbers making first ascents of new types of climbing routes , using new climbing techniques , at ever-increasing grades of difficulty , with ever-improving pieces of climbing equipment . Guides and guidebooks were an important element in developing the popularity of the sport in the natural environment. Early pioneers included Walter Bonatti , Riccardo Cassin , Hermann Buhl , and Gaston Rébuffat , who were followed by and Reinhold Messner and Doug Scott , and later by Mick Fowler and Marko Prezelj , and Ueli Steck . Since

290-650: A German-speaking family in St. Peter, Villnöß , near Brixen in South Tyrol , which is part of Italy . According to his sister, his delivery was difficult as he was a large baby and the birth took place during an air raid. His mother Maria (1913–1995) was the daughter of a shop owner and 4 years older than her husband. His father Josef (1917–1985) was drafted to serve the German army and participated in World War II on

435-779: A Member of the European Parliament for the Italian Green Party ( Federazione dei Verdi ). He was also among the founders of Mountain Wilderness , an international NGO dedicated to the protection of mountains worldwide. In 2004 he completed a 2,000-kilometre (1,200 mi) expedition through the Gobi Desert . In 2006, he founded the Messner Mountain Museum . Messner was the first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in

580-575: A member of the European Parliament for north-east Italy , as a member of the Federation of the Greens . Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2010, he received the 2nd Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. In 2018, he received jointly with Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess of Asturias Award in the category of Sports. Messner was born to

725-1493: A 9c Dan Osman (1963–1998) US, rock climber, soloist, killed whilst attempting his new sport of rope jumping James Outram (1864–1925) Canada, first ascent of Mount Assiniboine P [ edit ] [REDACTED] Michel-Gabriel Paccard [REDACTED] Paul Preuss Michel-Gabriel Paccard (1757–1827) France, first ascent Mont Blanc (1786) Bachendri Pal (born 1954) first Indian female ascent (and fifth female ascent) Everest Tsewang Paljor (1968–1996) India, died on Everest in 1996 Mount Everest disaster Ines Papert (born 1974) German ice climber, apinist and author Marie Paradis (1757–1827) France, first female ascent Mont Blanc (1809) Young-seok Park (1963–2011) South Korea, first true Explorers Grand Slam (2005), died on Annapurna Elizabeth Parker (1856–1944) Canada, journalist and mountaineer Edurne Pasaban (born 1973) Basque, Spain, first woman to climb all eight-thousanders Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) first Nepali woman to summit Everest, died on descent (1993) Tom Patey (1932–1970) UK, first ascent Muztagh Tower (1956), Am Buachaille (1968), killed in abseiling accident, author of One Man's Mountains Krushnaa Patil (born 1989) India, second youngest Indian girl to climb Mount Everest Maciej Pawlikowski (born 1951) Poland, first winter ascent of Cho Oyu Ryszard Pawłowski Julius Payer (1841–1915) Czech-Austrian polar explorer who made many first ascents in

870-831: A bike from Sweden to Everest, soloed Everest without oxygen, and then cycled home (1996) Moriz von Kuffner (1854–1939) Austria, first ascents including Eiger north-east face and Mount Maudit's Kuffner Ridge Julius Kugy (1858–1944) Austria-Slovenia, father of modern mountaineering in the Julian Alps Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) Poland , the second man to climb all 8,000m peaks (9 new routes), four eight-thousanders in winter, only person to climb two eight-thousanders in one winter Colonel Narendra Kumar (1933–2020) India , Siachen Glacier and Himalayan veteran Jaan Künnap (born 1948) Estonia, mountaineer, and photographer Janusz Kurczab (1937–2015) Poland, led 1976 Polish unsuccessful expedition to tackle

1015-789: A boulder at the grade of V12  (8A+) with Trice . Alex Honnold (born 1985) US, prolific free soloist Tom Hornbein (born 1930) US, first ascent of Everest via the West Ridge (1963) Steve House (born 1970) US, solo ascent K7 (2004), first ascent of Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat (2005) Charles Houston (1913–2009) US, first ascent Mount Foraker (1934), leader of US American to K2 in 1950s Alexander Huber (born 1968) Germany, first ascents of hardest rock climbing grades Thomas Huber (born 1966) Germany, big wall ascents in Yosemite and Pakistan Charles Hudson (1828–1865) UK, first ascents of Monte Rosa (1855) and

1160-587: A direct helicopter flight from the Makalu base camp to the Lhotse base camp. Thus Messner became the first person to climb all eight-thousanders. Since this ascent, Messner has never climbed another eight-thousander. In 1989, Messner led a European expedition to the South Face of the mountain. The aim was to forge a path up the as-yet-unclimbed face. Messner himself did not want to climb any more. The expedition

1305-2537: A first ascent of a 5.15a Allison Vest (born 1995) Canada, two-time Canadian Bouldering Nationals champion Ed Viesturs (born 1959) US, first US climber to climb all eight-thousander (6th without supplemental oxygen) Sibusiso Vilane (born 1970) South Africa, first black African to summit Everest (2003) Ludwig Vörg (1911–1941) Germany, first ascent Eiger north face (1938) W [ edit ] [REDACTED] Edward Whymper [REDACTED] Krzysztof Wielicki Horace Walker (1838–1908) UK, first ascent Mount Elbrus , Grandes Jorasses , Barre des Ecrins , Obergabelhorn Lucy Walker (1836–1916) UK, first female ascent Matterhorn (1871) Barbara Washburn US, first ascent Mount Bertha , first female ascent Denali (1947) Bradford Washburn (1910–2007) US, third ascent Denali, pioneered west buttress route Ryan Waters (born 1973) US, first American to complete unsupported North and South Poles Don Whillans (1933–1985) UK, first ascent Annapurna south face (1970) Rick White (1946–2004) Australia, rock climber, developed Frog Buttress (1968) Jim Whittaker (born 1929) US, first US ascent Everest (1963) Lou Whittaker (1929–2024) US, Rainier guide Pete Whittaker (born 1991) UK, first free ascent of Century Crack 5.14b  (8c) Edward Whymper (1840–1911) UK, first ascent Matterhorn (1865), first ascent Chimborazo (1880) Jim Wickwire (born 1940) US, K2 (1978) (bivouacked near summit) Krzysztof Wielicki (born 1950) Poland, first winter ascent Everest; fifth person to climb all eight-thousanders Karl Wien (1906–1937) Germany, leader of unsuccessful Nanga Parbat expedition (1937) Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) US, born Dresden , emigrated to US; pioneer of free climbing ; K2 expedition (1939) Sydney Wignall (1922–2012) UK, Climbed Gurla Mandhata in 1955 Walter Wilcox (1869–1949) Canadian Rockies explorer Martyn S. Williams (born 1947) UK, first person to lead expeditions to South Pole (1989), North Pole (1992) and Mount Everest (1991) George Willig (born 1949) US, climbed South Tower of World Trade Center Fritz Wintersteller (1927–2018) Austria, first ascent Broad Peak (1957) and Skil Brum (1957) Ian Woodall (born 1956) UK, climbed Everest several times Daniel Woods (born 1989) USA, climbed world's hardest boulder problem, Flash (V15) in 2011 Fanny Bullock Workman (1859–1925) US, geographer, cartographer, and mountaineer, notably in

1450-666: A high altitude porter, he climbed 5xPakistani 8000ers and Everest, without supplementary oxygen Mostafa Salameh (born 1970) Jordan, first Jordanian to summit Everest, and Seven Summits John Salathé (1900–1993) Switzerland/US, pioneering Yosemite National Park , inventor of modern piton Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) France, third ascent Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria, first ascent Broad Peak , first ascent Skil Brum Peter Schoening (1927–2004) US, first ascent Gasherbrum I and Vinson Massif , saved five climbers on K2 (1953) Jakob Schubert (born 1990) Austria, one of

1595-493: A lead ice climbing discipline and a speed ice climbing discipline. Competition ice climbing is not as yet an Olympic Sport. Climbing has been the subject of both narrative and documentary films. Notable climbing films include Touching the Void (2003), Everest (2015), Meru (2015), The Dawn Wall (2015), Free Solo (2018), 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible (2021), and The Alpinist (2021). The Reel Rock Film Tour

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1740-642: A museum that unites within one museum the stories of the growth and decline of mountains, culture in the Himalayan region and the history of South Tyrol. The MMM consists of five or six locations: In 1999, Messner was elected Member of the European Parliament for the Federation of the Greens (FdV), the Italian green party , receiving more than 20,000 votes in the European election . He fully served his term until 2004, when he retired from politics. Messner

1885-419: A previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II traverse. In 1982, Messner scaled Broad Peak , his third eight-thousander. At the time, he was the only person with a permit to climb this mountain; he came across Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka , who had permits to climb K2, but used its geographic proximity to climb Broad Peak illegally. In early descriptions of

2030-521: A result, the time, place and exact cause of death is unknown. Messner said his brother had been swept away by an avalanche. In June 2005, after an unusual heat wave on the mountain, the body of his brother was recovered on the Diamir Face, which seems to support Messner's account of how Günther died. The drama was turned into a film Nanga Parbat (2010) by Joseph Vilsmaier , based on the memories of Reinhold Messner and without participation from

2175-1328: A series on Climbing Lists Climbers Piolet d'Or winners IFSC victories Equipment Knots Historical events Grade milestones Eight-thousanders Terminology Types of rock climbing Aid Big wall Multi-pitch Bouldering Highball Competition Speed Free Sport Traditional Solo Free solo Deep-water solo Rope solo Top roping Types of mountaineering Alpine Mixed Via ferrata Himalayan Alpine style Expedition style Ice Dry-tooling Scrambling Hillwalking Other types Buildering Canyoning Crane Grass Commercial Parkour Pole Rock hopping Rooftopping Roof hacking Rope Slide Tree Key actions Abseiling Belaying Leading Redpointing Jumaring Self rescuing Simul climbing Traversing Techniques Key terms Anchor First ascent FFA FFFA Grade Route Beta Guide Pitch Crack Face Overhang Slab v t e This

2320-453: A snow cave. Messner himself was no longer in a position to help the search. The following day, only Horst Fankhauser returned. Andi Schlick had left the snow cave during the night and disappeared. Thus, the expedition had to mourn the loss of two climbers. Messner was later criticised for having allowed Jäger go back down the mountain alone. Together with Peter Habeler , Messner made a second ascent of Gasherbrum I on 10 August 1975, becoming

2465-478: A speed record on The Nose of 2:36:45 (2012) James David Forbes (1809–1868) UK, first British ascent of the Jungfrau Charlie Fowler (1954–2006) US, free soloist and high-altitude mountaineer Mick Fowler (born 1956) UK, leading traditional climber , ice climber and alpinist ; winner of three Piolet d'Ors (2003, 2013, 2016) Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) UK, ascents in

2610-472: A tragic success. Both he and his brother Günther reached the summit but Günther died two days later on the descent of the Diamir face. Reinhold lost seven toes, which had become badly frostbitten during the climb and required amputation. Reinhold was severely criticized for persisting on this climb with the less experienced Günther. The 2010 movie Nanga Parbat by Joseph Vilsmaier is based on his account of

2755-1709: Is a list of climbers and mountaineers who are notable for their activities in mountaineering (including alpine climbing ), rock climbing (including aid climbing , free climbing , bouldering , speed climbing and competition climbing ) or in ice climbing (including mixed climbing ). Contents:  A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z References A [ edit ] Vitaly Abalakov (1906–1992) Russia, climbed Lenin Peak (1934) and Khan Tengri (1936) Yevgeniy Abalakov (1907–1948) Russia, climbed Communism Peak (1933) Premlata Agarwal (born 1963) India, first Indian woman to complete all Seven Summits H. P. S. Ahluwalia (fl. 1965) India, climbed Mount Everest in 1965 Pierre Allain (1904–2000) France, developed bouldering at Fontainebleau , and rubber rock-climbing shoes Rick Allen (1954–2021) UK, first ascent of Mazeno Ridge , Nanga Parbat Christian Almer (1826–1898) Switzerland, numerous first ascents, including Eiger Ashraf Aman (born 1943) Pakistan, first Pakistani ascent of K2 Luigi Amedeo, Duke of Abruzzi (1873–1933) Italy, first ascent of Mount Saint Elias , Rwenzori Mountains Pat Ament (born 1946) US, rock climber, and pioneer boulderer Melchior Anderegg (1827–1912) Switzerland, guide, with numerous first ascents, including on Mont Blanc Conrad Anker (born 1963) US, discovered Mallory 's body on Everest in 1999 Tyler Armstrong (born 2004) US, in 2013, at age 9,

2900-454: Is a traveling film festival that exclusively screens climbing and adventure films, and includes the Reel Rock climbing film series. List of climbers and mountaineers Mountaineers, rock climbers, and ice climbers [REDACTED] Reinhold Messner , the first mountaineer to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders Part of

3045-488: Is different from Wikidata Commons category link is on Wikidata Commons category link is locally defined Reinhold Messner Reinhold Andreas Messner ( German: [ˈʁaɪnhɔlt ˈmɛsnɐ] ; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian climber , explorer, and author from the German-speaking province of South Tyrol . He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler ,

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3190-622: Is recognized by the IOC and GAISF and is a member of the International World Games Association ( IWGA ). Competition climbing has three parts: Competition ice climbing is a regulated sport of 'competitive ice climbing' that originated in the early 2000s, and which is done on outdoor or indoor climbing on artificial ice climbing walls that consist of ice and dry surfaces. The UIAA is the governing body for competition ice climbing worldwide and their events include

3335-475: Is the highest category of any Guinness World Record, meaning the ownership of the title never expires. As of 2021, Messner is the second highest record holder of "World's Firsts" (after Icelandic oceanic rower Fiann Paul , who has 13). Messner's world firsts are: In 2003 Messner started work on a project for a mountaineering museum. On 11 June 2006, the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) opened,

3480-660: Is the more challenging one. Climbing Carstensz Pyramid has the character of an expedition, whereas the ascent of Kosciuszko is an easy hike. In May 1986 Pat Morrow became the first person to complete the Messner list, followed by Messner himself when he climbed Mount Vinson in December 1986 to become the second. Messner is listed nine times in the Guinness Book of Records . All of his achievements are classed as "World's Firsts" (or "Historical Firsts"). A "World's First"

3625-1218: The 1924 Everest expedition ; pioneer rock climber in Borrowdale George Irving Bell (1926–2000) US, physicist , biologist and mountaineer, first ascent Masherbrum (1960), rescued on K2 (1953) Gertrude Bell (1868–1926) UK, many ascents in the Alps; the Swiss peak Gertrudspitze was named in her honor Maciej Berbeka (1954–2013) Poland, first winter ascents of 3 eight-thousanders : Manaslu , Cho Oyu , and Broad Peak Josune Bereziartu (born 1972) Basque (Spain), first female to climb grade 8c  (5.14b), 8c+  (5.14c), and 9a  (5.14d) Patrick Berhault (1957–2004) France, several first free ascents of major sport climbing and alpine climbing routes Didier Berthod (born 1981) Switzerland, leading traditional climber who quit after failing on Cobra Crack 5.14a  (8b+) Adam Bielecki (born 1983) Poland, first winter ascents of 2 eight-thousanders: Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak John Biggar (born 1964) Scotland, several first ascents in

3770-598: The Steck-Salathé Route Maurice Herzog (1919–2012) France, leader of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition , and first ascent of Annapurna (1950) Tom Higgins (1944–2018) US, first and first free ascents in US, also in France outside Chamonix Lynn Hill (born 1961) US, first free ascent The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite (1993) Sandy Hill (born 1955) US, ascended Everest during

3915-955: The 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest expeditions, died on Everest at 8,150+ metres Sergio Martini (born 1949) Italy, seventh ascent of all eight-thousanders (1983–2000) Marie Marvingt (1875–1963) France, first woman to climb most major peaks in the French and Swiss Alps (1903–7) William Mathews (1828–1901) UK, founder of Alpine Club , first ascent Monte Viso , Grande Casse Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France, six 8,000m summits without supplementary oxygen, died on Dhaulagiri John Oakley Maund (died 1902) UK, first ascents in Mont Blanc massif Eylem Elif Maviş (born 1973) Turkey, first Turkish female ascent of Everest (2006) Pierre Mazeaud (born 1929) France, Walter Bonatti 's climbing partner, first French ascent of Everest (1978) Daniel Mazur (born 1960) US, numerous ascents in

4060-482: The 1924 British Everest expedition with George Mallory ; unlike Mallory, his body has not been found R. L. G. Irving (1877–1969) UK, early alpinist and climbing author; introduced George Mallory to climbing J [ edit ] [REDACTED] Margaret Jackson John Jackson (1921–2005) UK, member of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition ; head of Britain's Plas y Brenin centre Margaret Jackson (1843–1906) UK, pioneer female mountaineer in

4205-711: The 1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2 Kyra Condie (born 1996) US, member of the 2020 US Olympic climbing team Herb and Jan Conn (Herb: 1921–2012) US, early pioneers of climbing and caving in Carderock , Seneca Rocks , and the Black Hills William Martin Conway (1856–1937) UK, surveyor and explorer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps) Kenton Cool (born 1973) UK, several eight-thousanders ( Everest over seventeen times); ski descents of Cho Oyu and Manaslu W. A. B. Coolidge (1850–1926) US, over 1,700 expeditions in

4350-692: The 1955 British expedition Kinga Baranowska (born 1975) Poland, first Polish woman to climb Dhaulagiri , Manaslu and Kangchenjunga Anna Barańska (born 1976) Poland, first Polish woman to climb the North Face of Mount Everest Henry Barber (born 1953) US, leading US rock climber in the 1970s Andrzej Bargiel (born 1988) Poland, Snow Leopard record holder, several first ski mountaineering descents of eight-thousanders Lilliane and Maurice Barrard (1948–1986 and 1941?–1986) France, Nanga Parbat (1984, first female), both killed on K2 Charles Barrington (1834–1901) UK, first ascent of

4495-567: The 1955 French Makalu expedition Lucy Creamer (born 1971) UK, early British female competition climber , and alpine and ice climber. Peter Croft (born 1958) Canada, free soloing pioneer ( Astroman , Rostrum ); many first ascents in the Sierra Nevada Aleister Crowley (1875–1947) UK, occultist, writer, and rock climber, led early expeditions on K2 and on Kanchenjunga Michel Croz (1830–1865) France, mountain guide with numerous first ascents, died on

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4640-1799: The 1955 French Makalu expedition ; second ascent Eiger north face (1947) Vladislav Terzyul (1953–2004) Ukraine, disputed claim to have climbed all eight-thousanders Kevin Thaw (born 1967) UK, ascents in Himalayas and Yosemite Herbert Tichy (1912–1987) Austrian, first ascent Cho Oyu (1954) Bill Tilman (1898–1977) UK, explorer, climbed in Africa and Himalaya, first ascent Nanda Devi (1936) Luis Trenker (1892–1990) Italy, mountaineer, film director and writer Sonnie Trotter (born 1979) Canada, award-winning climber, known for hard trad climbing Francis Fox Tuckett (1834–1913) UK, first ascent Aletschhorn (1859) Julie Tullis (1939–1986) UK, Broad Peak (1984) and K2 (1986); died on descent from K2 Mark Twight (born 1962) US, advocate of "light and fast" style of mountaineering John Tyndall (1820–1893) UK, early attempts on Matterhorn , first ascent Weisshorn (1861) U [ edit ] [REDACTED] Karl Unterkircher Naomi Uemura (1941–1984) Japan, first solo winter ascent Mount McKinley , on which he died James Ramsey Ullman (1908–1971) US, author and mountaineer Ugur Uluocak (1962–2003) Turkey, mountaineer, photographer and editor, died on Mount Alarcha in Kyrgyzstan Um Hong-Gil (born 1960) South Korea, 9th person to climb all eight-thousanders, first to climb 16 highest peaks Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) US, first ascent Everest west ridge (1963), died on Mount Rainier (1979) Karl Unterkircher (1970–2008) Italy, Everest and K2 in

4785-767: The 1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition Charles Evans (1918–1995) UK, deputy leader of 1953 British Mount Everest expedition , and leader of 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition John Ewbank (1948–2013) Australia, pioneer of Australian rock climbing, invented Ewbank grading system F [ edit ] [REDACTED] Douglas Freshfield [REDACTED] Tom Frost Freda du Faur (1882–1935) Australia, first female ascent of Aoraki / Mount Cook Ron Fawcett (born 1955) UK, pioneer professional rock climber, first ascent of Master's Edge E7 6c Sue Fear (1963–2006) Australia, five eight-thousanders , killed in crevasse fall on Manaslu Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947) Germany, pioneer rock climber in

4930-525: The 1996 Mount Everest disaster ; completed the Seven Summits Edmund Hillary (1919–2008) New Zealand, first ascent of Everest with Norgay on the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition Alan Hinkes OBE (born 1954) UK, first Briton to climb all 14 eight-thousanders but his claim was disputed regarding Cho Oyu Andreas Hinterstoisser (1914–1936) Germany, killed in the 1936 Eiger climbing disaster , first to climb

5075-686: The 1996 Mount Everest disaster ; first Scandinavian female ascent of Everest João Garcia (born 1967) Portugal, 10th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen (1993–2010) Rolando Garibotti (born 1971) Argentina/US, first ascents on Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre including the Torre Traverse (2008) Janja Garnbret (born 1999) Slovenia, the most successful competition climber in history; first female to onsight 8c  (5.14b) Pierre Gaspard (1834–1915) France, first ascent La Meije with his son and Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau Chanda Gayen (1979–2014) India,

5220-1358: The 6 great north faces in one season; first female solo of Everest (1995) John Harlin (1934–1966) US, leading American alpinist of the 1960s, killed creating the Harlin Route on the Eiger north face Heinrich Harrer (1912–2006) Austria, first ascent of the Eiger north face (1938), and the Carstensz Pyramid (1962), author of The White Spider (1959) and Seven Years in Tibet (1952) Brette Harrington (born 1992) US, first free solo of big wall route, Chiaro di Luna , in Patagonia ; partner of Marc-André Leclerc Ginette Harrison (1958–1999) UK, Seven Summits, first female ascent Kangchenjunga (1998), killed on Dhaulagiri Dougal Haston (1940–1977) Scotland , first ascent Annapurna south face (1970) , killed in avalanche near Leysin Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed (1860–1934) UK, pioneer of mountaineering, mountain photographer, author Margo Hayes (born 1998) US, first female to climb 5.15a  (9a+); first female to complete

5365-1480: The Adamello and Ortler mountains in the 1860s Annie Smith Peck (1850–1935) US, mountaineer William Penhall (1858–1882) UK, first ascent Matterhorn west face Jim Perrin (born 1947) UK, over 200 first/free ascents in Britain Oliver Perry-Smith (1884–1969) US, a rock climber in Saxon Switzerland and the Dolomites Petrarch (1304–1374) Italy, climbed Mont Ventoux (1336) Elfrida Pigou (1911–1960) Canadian female climber, discovered crash site of Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810 , died on Mount Waddington Tadeusz Piotrowski mountaineer Burçak Özoğlu Poçan (born 1970) Turkey, first Turkish female over 8,000 m (2005) Klára Poláčková (born 1978) first Czech female to ascent Everest Dean Potter (1972–2015) US, speed soloed El Cap in 4:17; speed soloed El Cap and Half Dome in one day Paul Preuss (1886–1913) Austria, an early promoter of free climbing , climbed 1200 peaks in his short life Marko Prezelj , Slovenian mountaineer and winner of 4 Piolet d'Ors (1992, 2007, 2015, 2016) Paul Pritchard (born 1967) UK, rock climber Hristo Prodanov (1943–1984) Bulgaria, soloed Lhotse (1981) and Everest (1984), died on

5510-745: The Aiguille de Blaitière west face, and Kanchenjunga (1955) Katie Brown (born 1981) US, pioneer female competition climber and big wall climber Adriana Brownlee (born 2001) UK, youngest woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders . Geoffrey Bruce (1896–1972) UK, first to reach 8,300 metres (27,300 ft) on Mount Everest (1922). Hermann Buhl (1924–1957) Austria, first ascent Nanga Parbat (1953) and of Broad Peak (1957), died on Chogolisa Alexander Burgener (1845–1910) Switzerland, first ascent Zmuttgrat , Grands Charmoz , Aiguille du Grépon , Lenzspitze , and Grand Dru Jean Buridan (c. 1300–1358) France, climbed Mont Ventoux for

5655-581: The Alaska Range Lincoln Hall (1956–2012) Australia, rescued at 8,700m on descent from Everest (2006) Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand, Seven Summits in seven months, died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster Peter Harding (1924–2007) UK, leading British traditional climbing pioneer of the 1940s Warren J. Harding (1924–2002) US, first ascents of big wall aid climbing routes on El Capitan , first ascent The Nose (1958) Alison Hargreaves (1963–1995) UK, first solo of

5800-500: The Alpine Club Jack Borgenicht (1911–2005) US, garment manufacturer, philanthropist, the oldest person to climb Mount Rainier at age 81 Alastair Borthwick (1913–2003) Scotland, climber and author of Always a Little Further Christine Boskoff (1967–2006) US, 6 eight-thousanders , including Everest twice, died on Genyen Peak Sébastien Bouin (born 1993) France, first ascent of DNA (2022),

5945-506: The Alps and falling in love with the Dolomites . His father was strict and sometimes severe with him. He led Reinhold to his first summit at the age of five. When Messner was 13, he began climbing with his brother Günther , age 11. By the time Reinhold and Günther were in their early twenties, they were among Europe's best climbers. Since the 1960s, Messner, inspired by Hermann Buhl ,

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6090-760: The Andes Isabella Bird (1831–1904) UK, traveler, writer, and natural historian; first female fellow of the Royal Geographical Society Barry Blanchard (born 1959) Canada, mountain guide; first ascents in the Saint Elias range of Alaska Smoke Blanchard (1915–1989) US, developed The Buttermilks bouldering area in Bishop, California Karl Blodig (1859–1956) Austria, mountaineer, optician and journalist ; first to climb all 4,000 metre peaks in

6235-644: The Droites north face, the Philipp-Flamm intersection on the Civetta and the south face of Marmolada di Rocca. As a result, Messner won the reputation of being one of the best climbers in Europe. In 1970, Messner was invited to join a major Himalayan expedition that was going to attempt the unclimbed Rupal face of Nanga Parbat . The expedition, which was the major turning point in his life, turned out to be

6380-552: The Eiger (1858) Richard Bass (1929–2015) US, businessman and amateur mountaineer, first to complete the Seven Summits (1985) Robert Hicks Bates (1911–2007) US, first ascent of Mount Lucania (1937), part of US attempts on K2 in 1938 and 1953 Mark Beaufoy (1764–1827) UK, fourth ascent Mont Blanc (1787) Fred Beckey (Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey) (1923–2017) Germany/US, many first ascents of North American peaks Bentley Beetham (1886–1963) UK, member of

6525-685: The Elbe Sandstone Mountains Darby Field (1610–1649) UK, first European to climb Mount Washington (New Hampshire) (1642) George Ingle Finch (1888–1970) Australia, reached 8,300 m on 1922 British Everest expedition ; north face of Dent d'Hérens Hazel Findlay (born 1989) UK, first British female to ascend a traditional climbing route at grade E9 Scott Fischer (1955–1996) US, ascents of Lhotse (1990), K2 (1992), Everest (1994); died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster Hans Florine (born 1964) US, won first world speed championships in 1991, set

6670-800: The Hamta Pass region of Manali, Himachal Pradesh Chris Sharma (born 1981) US, first to climb consensus 9a+  (5.15a) with Realization/Biographie (2001), and 9b  (5.15b) with Jumbo Love (2008). John Sherman (born 1959) US, inventor of "V" grading system Apa Sherpa (born early 1960s) Nepal, record for most ascents of Everest (20 as of 2010) Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) Nepal, first Nepali woman to climb Everest, died during descent Pemba Doma Sherpa (1970–2007) Nepal, first Nepali female mountaineer to climb Everest north face, died on Lhotse Pemba Dorjie Sherpa Nepal, fastest ascent of Everest (2003) Eric Shipton (1907–1977) UK, first ascent Kamet , pioneered route across

6815-578: The Heiligkreuzkofel middle pillar and the direct south face of the Marmolada . In 1969, Messner joined an Andes expedition, during which he succeeded, together with Peter Habeler , in making the first ascent of the Yerupaja east face up to the summit ridge and, a few days later, the first ascent of the 6,121-metre-high (20,082 ft) Yerupaja Chico. He also made the first solo ascent of

6960-681: The Hinterstoisser Traverse Yuji Hirayama (born 1969) Japan, World Cup winner in lead (1998, 2000), first to onsight at 8c  (5.14b), and speed records on The Nose Marty Hoey (1951–1982) US, mountain guide and ski patroller, died on Everest attempting to become the first US woman to ascend it Charles F. Hoffmann (1838–1913) US, surveyor and mountaineer, several first ascents in Sierra Nevada Jim Holloway (born 1954) US, bouldering pioneer, and first to ascend

7105-472: The Matterhorn (1865) Tomaž Humar (1969–2009) Slovenia, solo ascent of Dhaulagiri south wall (1999), northwest face of Ama Dablam (1996) Alexander von Humboldt (1769–1859) Germany, set a European altitude record on Chimborazo (1802) John Hunt (1910–1998) UK, leader of successful 1953 British Mount Everest expedition I [ edit ] Marcel Ichac (1906–1994) France, filmed

7250-1814: The Mont Blanc massif Isabella Charlet-Straton (1838–1918) UK, first ascents in Alps , first winter ascent of Mont Blanc (1876) Maxime Chaya (born 1961) Lebanon, climbed Everest (2006), Seven Summits and Three Poles Challenge Chhurim (born 1984) Nepal, the first woman to summit Everest twice in a week Chang Yuan-Chih (1988 – 2024), Taiwanese first ascentionist , second from Taiwan to climb an eight-thousander Renata Chlumska (born 1973) Sweden, first Swedish female ascent of Everest (1999) Yvon Chouinard (born 1938) US, pioneer of big wall and aid climbing in Yosemite , founder of Chouinard Equipment and Patagonia Leszek Cichy (born 1951) Poland, first winter ascent of Everest with Krzysztof Wielicki John Clarke (1945–2003) Ireland-Canada, explorer with over 600 first ascents in Coast Range of British Columbia Vern Clevenger (born 1955) US, first ascent Cholatse (1982), numerous first routes ascents in Sierra Nevada Ian Clough (1939–1970) UK, first ascent Am Buachaille (1968), first UK ascent Eiger north face (1962), died on Annapurna Norman Clyde (1886–1972) US, pioneer of California's Sierra Nevada Johann Coaz (1822–1918) Switzerland, first ascent of Piz Bernina J. Norman Collie (1859–1942) UK, first ascent Ben Nevis Tower Ridge, Nanga Parbat expedition (1895) Emilio Comici (1901–1940) Italy, pioneer of big wall climbing and aid climbing ; first ascent Cima Grande north face (1933) Achille Compagnoni (1914–2009) Italy, first ascent of K2 with Lino Lacedelli on

7395-541: The Mont Blanc massif Oscar Eckenstein (1859–1921) UK, alpinist, rock climber, and pioneer of bouldering ; inventor of modern crampon Patrick Edlinger (1960–2012) France, first person to onsight 7c  (5.12d), and second-ever person to redpoint 7c+  (5.13a); prolific free soloist Angela Eiter (born 1986) Austria, first female to redpoint – and to make an FFA – at 9b  (5.15b); successful competition climber Albert R. Ellingwood (22 June 1887 – 12 May 1934) pioneer of climbing peaks in

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7540-534: The Nanga Parbat South Face expedition led by Karl Herrligkoffer , the objective of which was to climb the as yet unclimbed Rupal Face, the highest rock and ice face in the world. Messner's brother, Günther, was also a member of the team. On the morning of 27 June, Messner was of the view that the weather would deteriorate rapidly, and set off alone from the last high-altitude camp. Surprisingly his brother climbed after him and caught up to him before

7685-779: The Salathé Wall (2005) Johnny Dawes (born 1964) UK, the first free ascent of E9 ( Indian Face , 1986), and E8 ( Gaia , 1985) traditional climbing routes José Antonio Delgado (1965–2006) Venezuela, five eight-thousanders (1994–2006), died on Nanga Parbat Clinton Thomas Dent (1850–1912) UK, first ascent Lenzspitze (1870), Aiguille du Dru (1878); expeditions to the Caucasus Ardito Desio (1897–2001) Italy, geologist and leader of successful 1954 Italian Karakoram expedition to K2 Catherine Destivelle (born 1960) France, first female to climb 8a+  (5.13c), first female to winter solo of

7830-883: The Seven Summits , second European to climb Everest twice Lydia Bradey (born 1961) New Zealand, first woman to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen 1988 Samuel Brawand (1898–2001) Switzerland, politician, and mountain guide; first ascent of Mittellegigrat (1921) David Breashears (born 1956) US, Everest twice, directed IMAX film Everest Meta Brevoort (1825–1876) US, alpinist of Victorian period , aunt of W. A. B. Coolidge Russell Brice (born 1952) New Zealand, set record for fastest solo ascent without oxygen of Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam Jim Bridwell (1944–2018) US, first ascents of major aid routes on El Capitan ; first one-day ascent of The Nose (1975) David Brower (1912–2000) US, executive director of Sierra Club and Yosemite climber Joe Brown (1930–2020) UK, first ascent of Cenotaph Corner ,

7975-6201: The Wayback Machine External links [ edit ] Mountaineering Who's Who v t e Climbing Types Rock climbing Disciplines Aid Big wall Multi-pitch Bouldering Highball Competition Speed Free Sport Traditional Solo Free solo Deep-water solo Rope solo Top roping Route types Crack Face Overhang / Roof Slab Mountaineering Alpine Via ferrata Himalayan Alpine style Expedition style Ice Mixed Dry-tooling Scrambling Hillwalking Other Buildering Canyoning Crane Grass Commercial Parkour Pole Ropes course Rooftopping Roof and tunnel hacking Slide Tree Lists Alpine clubs Climbers Piolet d'Or winners IFSC World Cup winners IFSC World Championships winners IFSC victories Deaths Eight-thousanders Everest Equipment Brands Knots Historical events Grade milestones First ascents Technique Terminology Terminology Equipment Rock Aider Daisy chain Anchor Ascender Croll Belay device Auto belay Glasses Gloves Bolt Boulder mat Carabiner Maillon Climbing rope Cord Dynamic Static Chalk Descenders Figure-8 Harness Hooks Fifi Skyhook Hammer Hex Lanyard PAC Nut Copperhead Piton Portaledge Quickdraw SLDs Grigri Revo Sling SLCDs Camalot Shoes Tricam Ice and snow Alpenstock Abalakov thread Bottled oxygen Crampons Ice axe Ice tool Ice screw Mountaineering boot Rescue Avalanche cord RECCO Transeiver Snow anchor Snowshoe Action Abseiling Australian Dülfersitz Belaying Front pointing Glissading Jumaring Leading Flashing Onsighting Redpointing Rescue Crevasse Self Self-arrest Simul-climbing Rope team Spotting Traversing Tyrolean Other Ape index Approach shoe Clean Climbing route Beta Guidebook Climbing wall Chipping First ascent Pitch Topo Exposure Fall factor Grades Guides Training Bachar ladder Campus board Hangboard MoonBoard Media Magazines and journals Alpine Journal Alpinist American Alpine Journal Canadian Alpine Journal Climbing Desnivel Himalayan Journal Planinski Vestnik Rock & Ice Summit Non-fiction films The Alpinist El Capitan The Dawn Wall Free Solo Hard Grit Companies Black Diamond CAMP Cascade Designs Deuter Early Winters Eastern Mountain Sports Five Ten Frostline Kits GERRY Mountain Sports Grivel Holubar Mountaineering JanSport Sierra Designs Kelty La Sportiva Lowe Alpine Mammut Marmot Mountain Works Millet Mountain Equipment Co-op Mountain Safety Research Outdoor Research Patagonia Petzl Rab REI The North Face Therm-a-Rest Wild Country Organizations National Access Fund Alpine Club Alpine Club of Canada American Alpine Club Appalachian Mountain Club Austrian Alpine Club British Mountaineering Council Club Alpin Français Club Alpino Italiano Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade German Alpine Club South African Climbing Federation South Tyrol Alpine Club Swiss Alpine Club USA Climbing International International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes (UIAGM) Union of International Mountain Leader Associations (UIMLA) [REDACTED] Category [REDACTED] Commons [REDACTED] WikiProject v t e Exploration Exploration by environment Canopy Cave Cave diving Desert Ocean Deep-sea Exploration by region Chronology of European exploration of Asia History of European exploration in Tibet Africa European maritime exploration of Australia European land exploration of Australia Exploration of

8120-1156: The campus board Paul Güssfeldt (1840–1920) Germany, first ascent Peuterey ridge and Piz Scerscen , first European attempt on Aconcagua (1883) Veikka Gustafsson (born 1968) Finland, 9th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen (1993–2009) H [ edit ] [REDACTED] Artur Hajzer [REDACTED] Colin Haley [REDACTED] Heinrich Harrer [REDACTED] Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed [REDACTED] Lynn Hill [REDACTED] Edmund Hillary Peter Habeler (born 1942) Austria, first ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Reinhold Messner Douglas Robert Hadow (1846–1865) UK, died on first ascent Matterhorn (1865) Dave Hahn (born 1961) US, 11 Everest ascents, 26 Vinson Massif ascents, 19 Denali ascents Christoph Hainz (born 1962), South Tyrol, Italy, allrounder mountaineer, 40 first ascents Artur Hajzer (1962–2013) Poland, first winter ascent of Annapurna with Jerzy Kukuczka (1987) Colin Haley (born 1984) US, traverses and speed solo ascents in Patagonia and

8265-545: The world's second-ever 9c  (5.15d) route Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997) Russia, 7 eight-thousanders without oxygen, part of 1996 Everest disaster , died on Annapurna Loulou Boulaz (1908–1991) Switzerland, several first ascents and first female ascents in the Alps Tom Bourdillon (1924–1956) UK, Cho Oyu (1952), part of 1953 British Everest expedition , first to Everest South Summit (1953) Stipe Božić (born 1951) FPR Yugoslavia, completed

8410-573: The " north face trilogy " Kurt Diemberger (born 1932) Austria, first ascent of Broad Peak (1957) and Dhaulagiri (1960), climbed K2 ( 1986 K2 disaster ) Sasha DiGiulian (born 1992) US, the first female to free climb Magic Mushroom 7c+  (5.13a) on the Eiger north face Jan Długosz (1929–1962) Poland, numerous alpine ascents in the Tatras and Alps; first ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney Sarah Doherty (1959–2023) US,

8555-529: The "9a+ trilogy" Andreas Heckmair (1906–2005) Germany, first ascent of the Eiger north face (known as the 1938 Heckmair Route ) Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich (1937–1989) Poland, several first ascents of new routes (and some in winter) on eight-thousanders Gary Hemming (1934–1969) US, first ascent south face Aiguille du Fou Siegfried Herford (1891–1916) UK, first ascent Scafell Central Buttress (1914) Derek Hersey (1956–1993) UK, prominent free soloist in Britain and America; died unroped on

8700-838: The 14 eight-thousanders Enid Michael (1883–1966) US, known for ropeless climbing in Yosemite in the early 1900s John Middendorf (born 1959) US, big-wall rock climber, first ascent East Wall Great Trango Tower (1992) Thomas Middlemore (1842–1923) UK, first ascents in Mont Blanc and Bernina massifs, and Bernese Alps Gwen Moffat (born 1924) UK, author of Space Below My Feet (1961) Jerry Moffatt (born 1963) UK, sport climber and boulderer Silvio Mondinelli (born 1968) Italy, 13th to climb all eight-thousanders (sixth without supplementary oxygen) Ben Moon (born 1966) UK, sport climber, and boulderer, world's first 8c+  (5.14c) with Hubble A. W. Moore (1841–1887) UK, first ascent Fiescherhorn , Barre des Écrins , Piz Roseg , Ober Gabelhorn Tyrhee Moore US, member of

8845-438: The 1880s Mark Richey (born 1958) US, two-time winner of the Piolet d'Or in 2012 and 2020 Rick Ridgeway (born 1950) US, member of the first American team to summit K2 Leni Riefenstahl (1902–2003) Germany, filmmaker, actress, and mountaineer Ang Rita (1948–2020) Sherpa , climbed Everest ten times without supplemental oxygen Royal Robbins (1935–2017) US, rock climber, pioneer of modern Yosemite climbing in

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8990-423: The 1950s Alain Robert (born 1962) France, climber and builderer David Roberts (1943–2021) US, author, first ascents of Wickersham Wall ( Mount McKinley ) and other Alaskan peaks Paul Robinson (born 1987) US, rock climber and boulderer André Roch (1906–2002) Switzerland, Everest 1952 attempt, many first ascents in Alps and Asia Beth Rodden (born 1980) US, rock climber and first female to match

9135-481: The 1980s, the development of the safer format of bolted sport climbing , the wider availability of artificial climbing walls and climbing gyms, and the development of competition climbing , increased the popularity of rock climbing as a sport, and led to the emergence of professional rock climbers, such as Wolfgang Güllich , Alexander Huber , Chris Sharma , Adam Ondra , Lynn Hill , Catherine Destivelle , and Janja Garnbret . Climbing became an Olympic sport for

9280-684: The 2020 American Olympic climbing team Aron Ralston (born 1975) US, gained fame after amputating his right arm to free himself after a canyoneering incident Paul Ramsden (born 1969), England, first alpinist to win the Piolet d'Or five times Tom Randall UK, first free ascent of Century Crack 5.14b  (8c) Lisa Rands (born 1975) US, rock climber and boulderer Michael Reardon (1974–2007) US, prolific free solo climber and film producer Dave Rearick (born 1934) US, rock climber, first ascent of Diamond on Longs Peak (1960) Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985) France, 1950 Annapurna expedition , first to climb all six great north faces of

9425-839: The 7 summits, climbed Mt Everest on 21 May 2016 T [ edit ] [REDACTED] Sheikha Asma Al Thani [REDACTED] Bill Tilman [REDACTED] Francis Fox Tuckett Junko Tabei (1939–2016) Japan, first female ascent Everest; first completion of Bass and Messner's Seven Summits Kei Taniguchi (1972–2015) Japan, first female winner of the Piolet d'Or in 2009 Joe Tasker (1948–1982) UK, Dunagiri , Kanchenjunga , Changabang West Wall; died on Everest (May 1982) Asma Al Thani first Qatari woman to ascend Everest and Ama Dablam; first Arab to summit an eight-thousander without oxygen Vernon Tejas (born 1953) US, first solo winter ascent Denali , Seven Summits time world record Lionel Terray (1921–1965) France, first ascents Fitz Roy , Chakrarahu , Jannu and Makalu on

9570-853: The Alps Arlene Blum (born 1945) US, part of the first US female attempt on Everest , led the first all-woman ascent of Annapurna Peter Boardman (1950–1982) UK, Everest 1975, Changabang 1976, Kanchenjunga 1979, died on Everest with Joe Tasker Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau (1857–1923) France, first ascent La Meije with father and son Pierre Gaspard (1877) Jean-Marc Boivin (1951–1990) France, first ascents of extreme alpine routes , pioneer of extreme skiing and BASE jumping Walter Bonatti (1930–2011) Italy, mountaineer and writer, solo new routes on Aiguille du Dru and Matterhorn Sir Chris Bonington (born 1934) UK, first ascent of Freney Pillar (1961), Tower of Paine (1962–3); ascent of 3 eight-thousanders Thomas George Bonney (1833–1923) UK, geologist and mountaineer, president of

9715-951: The Alps Azim Gheychisaz (born 1981) Iran, 18th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen (2008–2017) John Gill (born 1937) US, "father" of modern bouldering, and first to climb 7B  (V8) and 7C  (V9); introduced chalk to climbing Stefan Glowacz (born 1965) Germany, second-ever onsight at 8b  (5.13d), and second-ever 8b+  (5.14a) multi-pitch ascent Alessandro Gogna (born 1946) Italy, several first winter (and solo) ascents of major Alpine north faces Dan Goodwin (born 1955) US, known for buildering ( World Trade Center , Sears Tower , John Hancock Center and CN Tower ) Alec and Peter Graham , New Zealand mountaineers, mountain guides and hotel operators Dave Graham (born 1981) US, leading boulderer of his generation, first ascent of The Story of Two Worlds V15  (8C) Tormod Granheim (born 1974) Norway, first ski mountaineering descent

9860-450: The Alps Nicolas Jaeger (1946–1980) France, first French ascent of Mount Everest, and one of the first ski descents of an eight-thousander Ray Jardine (born 1944) US, first to redpoint at 5.13a  (7c+); inventor of spring-loaded camming devices (or "friends") Narendra Dhar Jayal (1927–1958) India, founder and first director of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Ganesh Jena (born 1972) India, first male from

10005-402: The Alps , Alpine guide and author Ernst Reiss (1920–2010) Swiss, first ascent of Lhotse (1956) Monique Richard (born 1975) Canada, first woman to solo climb Mount Logan , first Canadian woman to summit Mt Makalu , Seven Summits in 32 months Dorothy Pilley Richards (1894–1986) UK, wrote Climbing Days (1935) Katharine Richardson (1854–1927) UK, a mountaineer in the Alps in

10150-518: The Alps with numerous first ascents, Alpine historian Janne Corax (born 1967) Sweden, cycled across the Tibetan plateau and claimed several first ascents of Tibetan mountains Henri Cordier (1856–1877) France, first ascents Aiguille du Plat de la Selle , Les Droites (east summit) (1876) Patrick Cordier (1947–1996) France, first and solo ascents in the Alps; French Direct Troll Wall (1967) and The Nose solo (1973) Jean Couzy (1923–1958) France, first ascent of Makalu with Terray on

10295-972: The Alps, Scotland , Himalayas , and Pyrenees ; president of Alpine Club Tom Frost US, first ascents of big wall routes on El Capitan including Salathé Wall (1961) and North American Wall (1964) Fritiof Fryxell (1900–1986) US, geologist, and park ranger, first ascents in the Teton Range Wang Fuzhou (1935–2015) China, first ascent of the north face of Everest , first ascent of Shishapangma G [ edit ] [REDACTED] Conrad Gessner [REDACTED] John Gill [REDACTED] Stefan Glowacz [REDACTED] Paul Güssfeldt Patrick Gabarrou (born 1951) France, first ascents of extreme alpine routes in Mont Blanc massif ( Hypercouloir , Supercouloir ) Will Gadd (born 1967) Canada, pioneer mixed climber ( first M9 and M12 ), and pioneer of Helmcken extreme ice routes Ryszard Gajewski (born 1954) Poland, first winter ascent of Manaslu Lene Gammelgaard Denmark, part of

10440-440: The Alps, Caucasus, and Africa Louis Ramond de Carbonnières (1755–1827) France, scientist and Pyrenean pioneer Kim Carrigan (born 1958) Australia, first ascents of the first Ewbank grade 26, 27, 28, 29 and 30, routes. Carlos Carsolio (born 1962) Mexico, the fourth person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders (1985–1996) Riccardo Cassin (1909–2009) Italy, equipment manufacturer and pioneer alpinist; first ascent of

10585-771: The Alps. Between 1960 and 1964, he led over 500 ascents, most of them in the Dolomites . In 1965, he climbed a new direttissima route on the north face of the Ortler . A year later, he climbed the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses and ascended the Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero. In 1967, he made the first ascent of the northeast face of the Agnér and the first winter ascents of the Agnér north face and Furchetta north face. In 1968, he achieved further firsts:

10730-1994: The Americas Settlement of the Americas Exploration of North America European colonization of the Americas Exploration of the Pacific Polynesian navigation Polar Arctic Antarctica Timelines Chinese exploration Timeline of European exploration Major explorations after the Age of Discovery Chronology of European exploration of Asia Timeline of maritime migration and exploration Timeline of space exploration Expeditions 1928 Great Barrier Reef expedition Austrian expedition to Brazil Challenger expedition Dana expeditions Norwegian Scientific Expedition to Tristan Da Cunha 1937-1938 Operation Sunshine (USS Nautilus) Whitney South Sea Expedition Lists of explorers By country of origin French Italian Portuguese Spanish Romanian Russian By environment Circumnavigators Climbers Polar explorers Underwater explorers Seafarers Space travelers Portal : [REDACTED] Climbing Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=List_of_climbers_and_mountaineers&oldid=1255027361 " Categories : Climbers Lists of sportspeople by sport Mountaineering Climbing and mountaineering-related lists Mountain climbers Hidden categories: Webarchive template wayback links Articles with short description Short description

10875-578: The Austrian, Robert Schauer; and Germans Michael Dacher , journalist, Jochen Hölzgen, and doctor Ursula Grether, who was injured during the approach and had to be carried to Askole by Messner and Mutschlechner. Because of avalanche danger on the original route and time lost on the approach, they decided to climb via the Abruzzi Spur . The route was equipped with fixed ropes and high-altitude camps, but no hauling equipment ( Hochträger ) or bottled oxygen

11020-1305: The Canadian Rockies including Mount Robson Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970) Austria, the first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen Bob Kamps (1931–2005) US, pioneer of the golden age of Yosemite climbing and 5.10 and 5.11 routes in America Harish Kapadia (born 1945) India, Himalayan veteran Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954) Austria, first ascent of Eiger north face Peter Kaufmann (1858–1924) Switzerland, guide in Alps and Canadian Rockies Ron Kauk (born 1957) US, rock climber, many first ascents in Yosemite , stunt work for climbing movies Robert Kayen (born 1959) US, rock climber, professor, scientist, first solo ascent of West Buttress of El Capitan Dora Keen (1871–1963) US, ascents in Alps, member of Royal Geographical Society , 1914 Alexander Kellas (1868–1921) UK, altitude record in 1911 on summit of Pauhunri (7,128 m) Pat Kelly (died 1922) UK, rock climber and founder of Pinnacle Club E. S. Kennedy (1817–1898) UK, first ascent Monte Disgrazia , Mont Blanc du Tacul Mikhail Khergiani (1932–1969) Svan mountaineer of Soviet Georgia , known as

11165-531: The Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, US K [ edit ] [REDACTED] Dora Keen [REDACTED] Jerzy Kukuczka [REDACTED] Jaan Künnap Meherban Karim (1979–2008) Pakistan, Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, and K2 (all three without supplementary oxygen), died on descent of K2 Conrad Kain (1883–1934) Austria/Canada, over 50 first ascents in

11310-468: The Diamir Face, thereby achieving the first traverse of Nanga Parbat and second traverse of an eight-thousander after Mount Everest in 1963. Reinhold arrived in the valley six days later with severe frostbite, but survived. His brother, Günther, however died on the Diamir Face—according to Reinhold Messner on the same descent, during which they became further and further separated from each other. As

11455-1198: The Eiger north face in winter (2003) Wilfrid Noyce (1917–1962) UK, on Everest expedition (1953), reaching South Col , killed in Pamirs (1962) Arne Næss (1912–2009) Norway, philosopher and mountaineer, leader of expedition on first ascent Tirich Mir (1950) Arne Næss jr. (1937–2004) Norway, leader, Norwegian Everest expedition (1985) O [ edit ] [REDACTED] Juanito Oiarzabal [REDACTED] Adam Ondra Vanessa O'Brien (born 1964) First British-American woman to summit K2 Cathy O'Dowd (born 1968) South Africa, first female ascent of Everest from both north and south (1999), fourth female ascent Lhotse (2000) Oh Eun-Sun (born 1966) South Korea, first Korean woman to climb Seven Summits, controversy over eight-thousanders claim Juanito Oiarzabal (born 1956) Basque (Spain), all eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen, record 24 ascents of eight-thousanders Clare O'Leary (born 1972) Ireland, first Irish woman to climb Mount Everest (2004) Adam Ondra (born 1993) Czech Republic, first to redpoint

11600-983: The Himalayas Y [ edit ] Santosh Yadav (born 1969) India, Indo-Tibetan Border Police woman, climbed Everest twice (1992 and 1993) Simon Yates (born 1963) UK, Joe Simpson 's partner on west face of Siula Grande (1985), subject of Touching the Void Michael J. Ybarra (1966–2012) US, climber and writer, extreme sports correspondent for The Wall Street Journal 2007–2012 Wang Yongfeng (born 1963) China, first Chinese couple to climb Seven Summits (with Li Zhixin ) Ichiro Yoshizawa (1903–1998) Japan, climber and writer; K2 (1977) Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876–1958) UK, first ascent Täschhorn south face, Weisshorn west ridge, Grandes Jorasses traverse Z [ edit ] [REDACTED] Andrzej Zawada Andrzej Zawada (1928–2000) Poland, pioneer of winter Himalayism Li Zhixin (born 1962) China, half of first Chinese couple to climb

11745-654: The Himalayas and America Steve McClure (born 1970) UK, first Briton to climb 9a twice Duncan McDuffie (1877–1951) US, summits in the Sierra Nevada Richard "Dick" McGowan (1933–2007) US, first US successful ascent of Everest, International Himalayan Expedition (1955) Ammon McNeely (born 1970) US, noteworthy first one-day ascents and speed records on El Capitan, Yosemite and Zion big walls Alex Megos (born 1993) first climber to on-sight 5.14d/9a route Willy Merkl (1900–1934) Germany, led two expeditions to Nanga Parbat (1932, 1934), died on

11890-571: The Indian Everest expedition (1965) Layton Kor (1938–2013) US, rock climber and mountaineer, author of Beyond the Vertical Dai Koyamada (born 1976) Japan, sport climber and boulderer Jon Krakauer (born 1954) US, author and mountaineer, Everest (1996) Hans Kraus (1905–1995) Austria, rock climber, sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation pioneer Göran Kropp (1966–2002) Sweden, cycled

12035-886: The Indian state of Odisha to climb Mount Everest Jimmy Jewell (1953–1987) UK, prolific free soloist of the 1970s and 1980s in Britain; died free soloing Konstanty Jodko-Narkiewicz (1901–1963) Polish, mountaineer who led the first 1933–34 Polish Andean Expedition Alex Johnson (born 1989) US, five-time American national bouldering champion and two-time Bouldering World Cup stage winner Raghav Joneja (born 1997) India, youngest Indian to climb Mount Everest Chris Jones (1939–2024) UK–US, first ascent of north face of North Twin Peak and other routes in Rockies and Andes Kevin Jorgeson (born 1984) US, first free climb of

12180-1375: The Khumbu Glacier Ashima Shiraishi (born 2001) US, first female to climb V15 (Horizon, Mount Hiei, Japan) William Shockley (1910–1989) US, Nobel Prize -winning physicist , proponent of eugenics , first ascent Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks (1953) Joe Simpson (born 1960) UK, survived a fall on Siula Grande , wrote Touching the Void Arunima Sinha India, first Indian amputee to climb Everest Todd Skinner (1958–2006) US, rock climber, first free ascent Salathe Wall, died on Leaning Tower Cecilie Skog (born 1974) Norway, first female to climb Seven Summits and both Poles, Everest and K2 Laurie Skreslet (born 1949) Canada, first Canadian to summit Everest (1982) William Cecil Slingsby (1849–1929) UK, first ascent Store Skagastølstind (1876), pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering Frank Smythe (1900–1949) UK, first ascent Kamet (1931) with Shipton , R. Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa, reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen Dermot Somers Ireland, climber, author and broadcaster Carlos Soria Fontán (born 1939) Spain,

12325-607: The Rocky Mountains and Colorado in particular Zsolt Erőss (1968–2013) Hungary, ten eight-thousanders , two with a prosthetic leg, died on descent from Kangchenjunga Susan Ershler (born 1956) US, climbed Seven Summits Leila Esfandyari (1970–2011) Iran, first Iranian woman to climb Nanga Parbat ; died on Gasherbrum II Jens Esmark (1763–1839) Norway, first ascent Snøhetta (1798) and Gaustatoppen , led first expedition to Bitihorn Nick Estcourt (1942–1978) UK, alpinist; killed on K2 by avalanche on

12470-466: The Russian front. After the war, he was an auxiliary teacher until 1957, when he became the director of the local school. Messner was the second of nine children – Helmut (born 1943), Günther (1946–1970), Erich (born 1948), Waltraud (born 1949), Siegfried (1950–1985), Hubert (born 1953), Hansjörg (born 1955) and Werner (born 1957), and grew up in modest means. Messner spent his early years climbing in

12615-1810: The Seven Summits with Wang Yongfeng Emil Zsigmondy (1861–1885) Austria, physician and mountain climber; died trying to force new route on the Meije Jerzy Żuławski (1874–1915) Polish literary figure, philosopher, translator and alpinist Juliusz Żuławski (1910–1999) Polish poet, prose writer, literary critic, translator and climber; son of Jerzy Żuławski Marek Żuławski (1908–1985) Polish painter, graphic artist, author and climber; son of Jerzy Żuławski Wawrzyniec Żuławski (1916–1957) Polish composer, music critic and teacher; died during Mont Blanc rescue mission; son of Jerzy Żuławski Matthias Zurbriggen (1856–1917) Switzerland, first ascent Aconcagua (1897) See also [ edit ] [REDACTED] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Mountaineers . [REDACTED] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Climbers . History of rock climbing List of grade milestones in rock climbing List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest References [ edit ] ^ "Fitz Roy - West face (Supercanaleta)" . pataclimb.com . Retrieved 2014-10-19 . ^ Jolly, Joanna ; Mulvey, Stephen (27 August 2010). "New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record" . BBC News . Retrieved 2010-08-29 . ^ American Alpine Journal , 1979, pp. 1–18 ^ "Jordan Romero, 13, 'becomes youngest to scale Everest' " . BBC. 22 May 2010 . Retrieved 22 May 2010 . ^ Douglas, Ed (4 October 2004). "Pete Schoening - Obituary" . The Guardian . Retrieved 2014-10-19 . ^ Ichiro Yoshizawa - Obituary Archived April 26, 2005, at

12760-491: The South Pillar D [ edit ] [REDACTED] Clinton Thomas Dent [REDACTED] Kurt Diemberger Kalpana Dash (born 1966) India, first from Odisha , India to climb Everest (2008) Sophia Danenberg (born 1972) US, first African American and first black woman to ascend Everest (2006) Steph Davis (born 1973) US, second female one-day free climb El Capitan and first female to free climb

12905-659: The Tiger of the Rocks Clarence King (1842–1901) US, geologist and climber , first director of USGS , first ascent Mount Tyndall Andy Kirkpatrick (born 1971) UK, rock and ice climber Colin Kirkus (1910–1942) UK, rock climber and alpinist Christian Klucker (1853–1928) Switzerland, guide, prolific first ascensionist in Bernina Range and Bregaglia M.S. Kohli (born 1931) India, leader of

13050-928: The Torre Egger in Patagonia and the Emperor Face of Mount Robson Pete Livesey (1943–1998) UK, influential rock climber in the 1970s John Long (born 1953) US, rock climber and writer; author of How to Rock Climb series Erhard Loretan (1959–2011) Switzerland, 14 8,000m-plus summits (1982–1995) Alex Lowe (1958–1999) US, climbed Great Trango Tower , Rakekniven in Antarctica and Sail Peak on Baffin Island ; died on Shishapangma George Lowe (1924–2013) New Zealand, member of 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition George Lowe (born 1944) US, alpinist and rock climber, notable for first ascents in

13195-841: The US and Canadian Rockies, Alps, Andes, and Himalayas Jeff Lowe (1950–2018) US, made over 1000 first ascents in the US and Canadian Rockies, Alps and Himalayas Fritz Luchsinger (1921–1983) Switzerland, first ascent of Lhotse , in 1956 M [ edit ] [REDACTED] Reinhold Messner [REDACTED] Thomas Middlemore [REDACTED] Albert F. Mummery Meherban Karim (1979–2008) Pakistan, Gasherbrum II, Nanga Parbat, K2 without supplementary oxygen Ashish Mane (born 1990) India, Everest (2012), Lhotse (2013), Makalu (2014), Manaslu (2017) Tim Macartney-Snape (born 1956) Australia, Everest (1984), first to climb Everest from sea level (1990) Tomasz Mackiewicz (1975–2018) Poland, died on winter alpine-style ascent of Nanga Parbat Dave MacLeod (born 1978) Scotland , made

13340-404: The ascent, Messner omitted this encounter, but he referred to it several years later. On 2 August, Messner was reunited with Nazir Sabir and Khan again on the summit. The three mountaineers had decamped and made for Broad Peak immediately after their ascent of Gasherbrum II. The climb was carried out with a variation from the normal route at the start. In the winter of 1982–83, Messner attempted

13485-465: The climb, if they could say; they could not. Messner became emotional on camera when he recalled having to tell his mother about his brother's death. It took a week for the two climbers to summit both peaks and return to camp, after which Herzog interviewed them again. His documentary, The Dark Glow of the Mountains , with some footage the two climbers shot during the expedition on portable cameras,

13630-912: The descent Bonnie Prudden (1914–2011) pioneering US rock climber and exercise advocate, 30 documented first ascents in the Gunks Karl Prusik (1896–1961) Austria, introduced widely used Prusik knot Ramón Julián Puigblanque (born 1981) Spain, rock climber Nirmal Purja (born 1982) Nepal, first to climb all fourteen 8000 meter mountains in one season (6 months, 6 days, with supplemental oxygen) Ludwig Purtscheller (1849–1900) first ascent Kilimanjaro (1889) Piotr Pustelnik (born 1951) Poland, 20th person to climb all 14 eight thousanders Boyan Petrov (born 1973) Bulgaria, climbed 10 out of 14 eight-thousanders , all without supplementary oxygen R [ edit ] [REDACTED] Monique Richard [REDACTED] Wanda Rutkiewicz Brooke Raboutou (born 2001) US, member of

13775-414: The descent. Although he was making slow progress, he appeared to be safe. The tea for his reception had already been boiled when Rüedi disappeared behind a snow ridge and did not reappear. He was found dead a short time later. Messner climbed his last normal route. Messner and Kammerlander had to contend with a strong wind in the summit area. To reach the summit that year and before winter broke, they took

13920-614: The difficulty of the climb forced the two mountaineers to use fixed ropes. Finally, on 6 May, Messner and Mutschlechner stood on the summit. There, Mutschlechner suffered frostbite to his hands, and later to his feet as well. While bivouacking during the descent, the tent tore away from Mutschlechner and Messner, and Messner also fell ill. He was suffering from amoebic liver abscess , making him very weak. He made it back to base camp only with Mutschlechner's help. After his ascent of Kangchenjunga, Mutschlechner flew back to Europe because his frostbite had to be treated and Messner needed rest. Thus

14065-517: The events. While Messner and Peter Habeler were noted for fast ascents in the Alps of the Eiger North Wall, standard route (10 hours) and Les Droites (8 hours), his 1975 Gasherbrum I first ascent of a new route took three days. This was unheard of at the time. In the 1970s, Messner championed the cause for ascending Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen, saying that he would do it "by fair means" or not at all. In 1978, he reached

14210-585: The first French expedition to the Karakoram (1936), and the successful 1950 French Annapurna expedition Dimitar Ilievski (1953–1989) Macedonia, the first Macedonian to climb Everest , died on the descent Ulrich Inderbinen (1900–2004) Switzerland, mountain guide with 371 ascents of the Matterhorn , the last at 90 years old Alberto Iñurrategi (born 1968) Basque, Spain, 10th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders (and 4th person to do so without oxygen) Andrew Irvine (1902–1924) UK, died on

14355-538: The first German to reach the summit, albeit with the aid of supplemental oxygen. Two years later, on 20 August 1980, Messner again stood atop the highest mountain in the world, without supplementary oxygen. For this solo climb, he chose the northeast ridge to the summit, where he crossed above the North Col in the North Face to the Norton Couloir and became the first man to climb through this steep gorge to

14500-446: The first Pakistani woman, to climb Mount Everest John Bachar (1957–2009) US, leading Yosemite-based rock climber and free soloist in the 1970s John Ball (1818–1889) Ireland , alpinist , climbing guidebook author, first president of Alpine Club (1857) Jacques Balmat (1762–1834) Duchy of Savoy , Chamonix-based guide, first ascent Mont Blanc (1786) George Band (1929–2011) UK, first ascent of Kangchenjunga on

14645-1686: The first all-African-American team to climb Denali Fritz Moravec (1922–1997) Austria, first ascent Gasherbrum II (1956) Piotr Morawski (1976–2009) Poland, many 8000m summits, died on Dhaulagiri/Manasu expedition Nea Morin (1905–1986) UK, rock climber and mountain climber Simone Moro (born 1967) Italy, first winter ascents of Shishapangma , Makalu , Gasherbrum II , and Nanga Parbat Don Morrison (1929–1977) UK, pioneer of Alpine Style , first ascents in Canada, England, and Himalayas Patrick Morrow (born 1952) Canada, first to complete both Bass and Messner Seven Summits lists (1986) Tomáš Mrázek (born 1982) Czechoslovakia, rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005, winner of World Cup 2004 John Muir (1838–1914) Scottish-born US conservationist and mountaineer, summits in California and Alaska Norrie Muir (1948–2019) Scotland, prolific winter first ascentionist in Scotland Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) UK, Alpine and Himalayan pioneer, killed on Nanga Parbat Don Munday (1890–1950) Canada, mountaineer and explorer, husband of Phyllis Munday , explored region around Mount Waddington Phyllis Munday (1894–1990) Canada, mountaineer and explorer, explored region around Mount Waddington Malli Mastan Babu (1974–2015) India, mountaineer and explorer, world record in completing seven summits in 172 days N [ edit ] [REDACTED] Tenzing Norgay Yasuko Namba (1949–1996) Japan, oldest woman at

14790-534: The first amputee to reach the summit of Denali without a prosthetic limb Jim Donini (born 1943) US, first ascent of Torre Egger (1976), president of the American Alpine Club (2006–2009) Hans Christian Doseth (1958–1984) Norway, first ascent of the East Face of Great Trango Tower (1984), died during the descent Lord Francis Douglas (1847–1865) Scotland, died on the descent after

14935-409: The first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders , doing so without supplementary oxygen. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds and also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. He is widely considered to be the greatest mountaineer of all time. From 1999 to 2004, Messner served as

15080-617: The first ascent of the Matterhorn John Cunningham (1927–1980) Scotland, pioneered new climbing techniques in ice climbing Bronisław Czech (1908–1944) Poland, a mountain rescue pioneer in the Tatra Mountains Anna Czerwińska (born 1949) Poland, first woman over age 50 to ascend Everest , first Polish female to climb Seven Summits Andrzej Czok (1948–1986) Poland, first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri , and first ascent of Everest via

15225-664: The first ascent of the Matterhorn (1965) Lonnie Dupre (born 1961) US, Arctic explorer, made a rare solo winter ascent of Denali Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) Germany, pioneer free climber, inventor of the Dülfersitz abseil technique; killed in World War I Hayatullah Khan Durrani (born 1962) Pakistan, mountaineer, and rock climber Günther Dyhrenfurth (1886–1975) German/Swiss, Himalayan explorer, led German expeditions to Kanchenjunga (1930, 1931) E [ edit ] James Eccles (1838–1915) UK, first ascents in

15370-536: The first free ascent of Cerro Torre Katie Lamb (born 1997) US, first female to climb an 8C+  (V16) boulder with Box Therapy (2023) Raymond Lambert (1914–1997) Switzerland, reached 8611m, highest altitude at that time, with 1952 Swiss Everest expedition Eric Langmuir (1931–2005), UK, climber, mountain educationalist and avalanche researcher Samantha Larson (born 1988) US, youngest person to complete Seven Summits, at 18 in 2007 Marc-André Leclerc (1992–2018) Canada, first winter solo ascents of

15515-666: The first free ascent of the world's first E11 traditional climbing route M. Magendran (born 1963) Malaysia, Everest (1997), first Malaysian/Tamil to reach the summit Nasuh Mahruki (born 1968) Turkey, Snow Leopard, first Turkish and Muslim climber of Everest Janusz Majer (born September 25, 1946) Poland Maki Yūkō (1894–1989) Japan, first ascents of Mittellegigrat (Eiger northeast ridge), Mount Alberta ; first winter ascent of Mount Yari ; led Manaslu first ascent Tashi and Nungshi Malik (born 1991) India, many world first female twins records George Mallory (1886–1924) UK, initial 1921 British Reconnaissance Expedition and

15660-444: The first man ever to climb more than two eight-thousanders. It was the first time a mountaineering expedition succeeded in scaling an eight-thousander using alpine style climbing. Until that point, all fourteen 8000-meter peaks had been summitted using the expedition style , though Hermann Buhl had earlier advocated "West Alpine Style" (similar to "capsule" style, with a smaller group relying on minimal fixed ropes). Messner reached

15805-626: The first time in the 2021 Olympic Games in Tokyo (see Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics ) in that format that included competition lead climbing , competition bouldering , and competition speed climbing disciplines; competition ice climbing is not yet an Olympic sport. Rock climbing can trace its origins to the late 19th-century , and has since developed into several main sub-disciplines. Single-pitch and multi-pitch (and big wall) climbing, can be performed in varying styles (including aid, sport, traditional, free solo, and top-roping), while

15950-419: The first to complete all fourteen eight-thousanders (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level). Messner has crossed Antarctica on skis, together with fellow explorer Arved Fuchs . He has written over 80 books about his experiences, a quarter of which have been translated. He was featured in the 1984 film The Dark Glow of the Mountains by Werner Herzog . From 1999 to 2004, he held political office as

16095-426: The first winter ascent of Cho Oyu . He reached an altitude of about 7,500 m (24,600 feet), when great masses of snow forced him to turn back. This expedition was his first with Hans Kammerlander. A few months later, on 5 May, he reached the summit via a partially new route together with Kammerlander and Michael Dacher. In 1985, Messner topped out on Annapurna . Using a new route on the northwest face, he reached

16240-477: The first woman from West Bengal to climb Everest ; killed on Kanchenjunga Lakpa Gelu (born 1967) Nepal, mountain guide who summitted Everest over 12 times; set one-day speed records on Everest Lester Germer (1896–1971) US, physicist , World War I fighter pilot and prominent rock climber in the Gunks Conrad Gessner (1516–1565) Switzerland, naturalist and early mountaineer in

16385-519: The former military officer of the Pakistan Army Nelly Attar (born 1990) Saudi/Lebanese, was the first Arab woman to summit K2 (2022). B [ edit ] [REDACTED] Jacques Balmat [REDACTED] Adam Bielecki [REDACTED] Arlene Blum [REDACTED] David Breashears [REDACTED] Bill Westbay, Jim Bridwell (center), and John Long Samina Baig (born 1990) Pakistan, third Pakistani, and

16530-512: The highest male grades in traditional climbing with Meltdown 5.14d  (9a) Jordan Romero (born 1996) US, became the youngest person to climb Everest on May 22, 2010, aged 13 years, 10 months, 10 days Steve Roper guidebook writer, editor of Ascent , first ascent of West Buttress of El Capitan. John Roskelley (born 1948) US, author, alpinist, Himalayan climber notable for technical first ascents of 7000 and 8000 m peaks Fred Rouhling (born 1970) France, rock climber, notable for

16675-468: The most successful competition climbers in history Doug Scott (1941–2020) UK, Seven Summits, first ascent Everest south-west face, Baintha Brakk (descent with broken ankles), Kangchenjunga, Nuptse Vittorio Sella (1859–1943) Italy, mountaineer and pioneer photographer Nalini Sengupta India, educationist and mountaineer, namesake of Mount Nalini, originally peak 5260 in the Himalayas , near

16820-636: The mountain Alain Mesili (born 1949) France, disputed ascent on Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela, pioneered routes in Bolivia Günther Messner (1946–1970) Italy, died on Nanga Parbat Reinhold Messner (born 1944) Italy, first to climb all eight-thousanders (1970–1986) and without supplementary oxygen, first ascent without supplementary oxygen of Everest with Peter Habeler (1978) first solo Everest (1980) Tracee Metcalfe US, only living American woman to have climbed 13 of

16965-529: The normal route along the northeast ridge. After only three days of climbing they stood on the summit in a heavy storm on 15 May. Messner tried climbing Makalu four times. He failed in 1974 and 1981 on the South Face of the south-east ridge. In winter 1985–1986 he attempted the first winter ascent of Makalu via the normal route. Even this venture did not succeed. Not until February 2009 was Makalu successfully climbed in winter by Denis Urubko and Simone Moro . In 1986, Messner returned and succeeded in reaching

17110-967: The north face of Everest (2006) Chloé Graftiaux (1987–2010) Belgium, rock climber (sport and bouldering) and alpinist ; bronze in 2010 World Cup for bouldering William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) New Zealand, ascents in the Selkirks , and Mount Green is named in his honor Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) Austria, numerous first ascents in the Eastern Alps in the 19th century Michael Groom (born 1959) Australia, ascents of Lhotse , Kangchenjunga , K2 , and Everest without bottled oxygen Bear Grylls (born 1974) in 1998, youngest Briton to summit Everest (age 23) Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992) Germany, first to redpoint grade 8b  (5.13d), 8b+  (5.14a), 8c  (5.14b), and 9a  (5.14d); first to free solo at 7c  (5.12d) (and to free solo Separate Reality ); co-inventor of

17255-475: The north face of Piz Badile (1937), and the north face of the Grandes Jorasses ( Walker Spur , 1938) Cristina Castagna (1977–2009) Italy, first Italian female ascent of Makalu , ascent of several other eight-thousanders Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz (1942–1978) Britain, first ascent of Gasherbrum III Ludwik Chałubiński (1860–1933) Poland, first ascent of Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki Armand Charlet (1900–1975) France, many first ascents in

17400-817: The northeast ridge of K2 Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) Poland, pioneer of alpine style in high mountains Toni Kurz (1913–1936) Germany, attempted Eiger north face in 1936, died during retreat L [ edit ] Constantin Lăcătușu (born 1961) Romania Lino Lacedelli (1925–2009) Italy, first ascent K2 (1954) with Achille Compagnoni Louis Lachenal (1921–1955) France, first ascent of Annapurna 1950 , with Maurice Herzog ; died skiing in Chamonix Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965–2006) France, 11 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen; died on Makalu David Lama (1990–2019) Austria, climber and alpinist, notable for

17545-1050: The only mountaineer to have ascended nine mountains of more than 8,000 meters after turning 60 years old Jaahnavi Sriperambuduru (born 2001) India. William Grant Stairs (1863–1892) Canada, first non-African to climb in the Ruwenzoris Allen Steck (1926–2023) US, mountaineer and rock climber Ueli Steck (1976–2017) Switzerland, soloed Eiger north face in 2:22:50 hours (2015) Leslie Stephen (1832–1904) UK, author and alpinist, first ascent Schreckhorn , Monte Disgrazia , Zinalrothorn Fritz Steuri (1879–1950) Switzerland, skier and mountain guide; first ascent of Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge of Eiger) (1921) Edward Lisle Strutt (1874–1948) UK, deputy leader on 1922 Everest expedition, outspoken Alpine Journal editor, 1927–37 Gottlieb Samuel Studer (1804–1890) Switzerland, first ascent Wildhorn (1843), founding member of Swiss Alpine Club Satyarup Siddhanta (born 1983) India, climbed Mont Blanc, climbed 6 of

17690-459: The other former members of the expedition. Released in January 2010 in cinemas, the film was criticised by the other members of the team for telling only one side of the story. Because of severe frostbite, especially on his feet—seven toes were amputated—Messner was not able to climb quite as well on rock after the 1970 expedition. He therefore turned his attention to higher mountains, where there

17835-613: The same year without oxygen, died on Nanga Parbat Denis Urubko (born 1973) Kazakhstan , 14x8000er; first winter ascents of Makalu and Gasherbrum II , Snow Leopard award winner V [ edit ] [REDACTED] Anak Verhoeven Arjun Vajpai (born 1993) India, climbed Everest 2010, Lhotse 2011 and Manaslu 2011 Ivan Vallejo (born 1959) Ecuador, 14th person to climb all eight-thousanders (7th without supplemental oxygen) Patrick Vallençant (1946–1989) France, alpinist/skier and ski mountaineering pioneer Anak Verhoeven (born 1996) Belgium, first woman to claim

17980-417: The standalone discipline of bouldering (or boulder climbing) is by definition performed in a free solo format. Competition climbing (sometimes confusingly called "sport climbing"), is a regulated sport of 'competitive rock climbing' that originated in the 1980s, and which is done as indoor climbing on artificial climbing walls . The IFSC is the governing body for competition rock-climbing worldwide and

18125-763: The summit (2018); died on Manaslu Fred Nicole Switzerland, numerous first ascents of sport routes and boulders Eleonore Noll-Hasenclever (1880–1925) Germany, first woman to climb eastern wall of Monte Rosa (1919); killed by avalanche on the Bishorn Jamling Tenzing Norgay (born 1965) Nepal, son of Tenzing Norgay, climbed Everest with Edmund Hillary's son, Peter Hillary (2003) Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986) Sherpa , first ascent Everest (1953) with Edmund Hillary Edward F. Norton (1884–1954) leader of 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition with Mallory and Irvine Sue Nott (1969–2006) US, ice climber and first American woman to climb

18270-484: The summit again in 1984, this time together with Hans Kammerlander . This was achieved as part of a double ascent where, for the first time, two eight-thousander peaks (Gasherbrum I and II) were climbed without returning to base camp. Again, this was done in alpine style, i.e. without the pre-location of stores. Filmmaker Werner Herzog accompanied the climbers along the 150-kilometre (93 mi) approach to base camp, interviewing them extensively about why they were making

18415-432: The summit in very bad weather; part of the climb involving ski mountaineering . In 1982, Messner wanted to become the first climber ever to scale three eight-thousanders in one year. He planned to climb Kangchenjunga , then Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak . Messner chose a new variation of the route up the north face. Because there was still a lot of snow, Messner and Mutschlechner made very slow progress. In addition,

18560-505: The summit of Everest with Habeler. This was the first time anyone had been that high without supplemental oxygen and Messner and Habeler achieved what certain doctors, specialists, and mountaineers thought impossible. He repeated the feat, without Habeler, from the Tibetan side in 1980, during the monsoon season. This was Everest's first solo summit. In 1978, he made a solo ascent of the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat . In 1986, Messner became

18705-402: The summit using the normal route with Kammerlander and Mutschlechner. Although they had turned back twice during this expedition, they made the summit on the third attempt on 26 September. During this expedition, Messner witnessed the death of Marcel Rüedi , for whom the Makalu was his 9th eight-thousander. Rüedi was on the way back from the summit and was seen by Messner and the other climbers on

18850-475: The summit with Kammerlander on 24 April. Also on the expedition were Reinhard Patscheider, Reinhard Schiestl and Swami Prem Darshano, who did not reach the summit. During Messner and Kammerlander's ascent, the weather was bad and they had to be assisted by the other three expedition members during the descent due to heavy snowfall. Messner had already attempted Dhaulagiri in 1977 and 1984, unsuccessfully. In 1985 he finally summited. He climbed with Kammerlander up

18995-467: The summit, the weather changed and heavy fog and snow descended. Initially Messner became lost on the way down, but later, heading into the storm, found his way back to the camp, where Horst Fankhauser and Andi Schlick were waiting for him and Jäger. Jäger did not return, although his cries were heard from the camp. Orientation had become too difficult. Fankhauser and Schlick began to search for him that evening, but lost their way and sought shelter at first in

19140-424: The summit. By late afternoon, both had reached the summit of the mountain and had to pitch an emergency bivouac shelter without tent, sleeping bags and stoves because darkness was closing in. The events that followed have been the subject of years of legal actions and disputes between former expedition members, and have still not been finally resolved. What is known now is that Reinhold and Günther Messner descended

19285-448: The summit. Messner decided spontaneously during the ascent to use this route to bypass the exposed northeast ridge. Before this solo ascent, he had not set up a camp on the mountain. For 1979, Messner was planning to climb K2 on a new direct route through the South Face, which he called the "Magic Line". Headed by Messner, the small expedition consisted of six climbers: Italians Alessandro Gogna, Friedl Mutschlechner and Renato Casarotto;

19430-399: The three mountains could not be climbed as planned. Messner was cured of his amoebic liver abscess and then travelled to Gasherbrum II , but could not use the new routes as planned. In any case, his climbing partners, Sher Khan and Nazir Sabir , would not have been strong enough. Nevertheless, all three reached the summit on 24 July in a storm. During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of

19575-472: The time to climb Everest at 47 (1996), died on descent Wasfia Nazreen (born 1982) Bangladesh, only Bengali person to climb K2 (2022) and first Bengali and Bangladeshi to finish the Seven Summits (2012). Vitor Negrete (1967–2006) Brazil, first Brazilian to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen Hilaree Nelson (1972–2022) United States, first female to summit two 8000-meter peaks in one 24 hour push (2012). First ski descent Lhotse Couloir from

19720-408: The view, before Petrarch C [ edit ] [REDACTED] Yvon Chouinard [REDACTED] Chhurim [REDACTED] Johann Coaz [REDACTED] Emilio Comici [REDACTED] Michel Croz Tommy Caldwell (born 1978) US, first free ascents of big wall routes on El Capitan , including Dawn Wall , first at 9a  (5.14d) Una Cameron (1904–1987) UK, ascents in

19865-420: The world and without supplemental oxygen. His climbs were also all amongst the first 20 ascents for each mountain individually. Specifically, these are: Reinhold Messner took a total of five expeditions to Nanga Parbat . In 1970 and 1978 he reached the summit (in 1978 solo); in 1971, 1973 and 1977, he did not. In 1971 he was primarily looking for his brother's remains. In May and June 1970, Messner took part in

20010-1082: The world's fourth 9a  (5.14d) rock climb (and first in France), and the controversy over Akira Alan Rouse (1951–1986) UK, soloed many of hardest routes of day, died on descent from K2 (1986) Galen Rowell (1940–2002) US, photographer and mountaineer, first one-day ascents of Denali and Kilimanjaro , first ascent Great Trango Tower Henry Russell (1834–1909) France/Ireland, prolific first ascensionist in Pyrenees Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943–1992) Poland, first woman on K2, 8,000m-peak veteran, died attempting Kanchenjunga S [ edit ] [REDACTED] John Salathé [REDACTED] Horace-Bénédict de Saussure [REDACTED] Ueli Steck [REDACTED] Gottlieb Samuel Studer Rosemary Saal (born 1990s), American mountaineer Nazir Sabir Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan, first Pakistani to climb Mount Everest Hassan Sadpara (born 1963) Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan, starting as

20155-583: The youngest to climb Aconcagua Melissa Arnot (born 1983) US, six ascents of Everest Bernd Arnold (born 1947) Germany, more than 900 first ascents in Saxon Switzerland Armando Aste (1926–2017) Italy, first Italian ascent of the Eiger north face Peter Athans (born 1957) US, seven ascents of Mount Everest Peter Aufschnaiter (1899–1973) Austria, mountaineer; friend of Heinrich Harrer (per Seven Years in Tibet ) Abdul Jabbar Bhatti , Pakistani mountaineer and

20300-436: Was much more ice. On 9 August 1978, after three unsuccessful expeditions, Messner reached the summit of Nanga Parbat again via the Diamir Face. In 1972, Messner succeeded in climbing Manaslu on what was then the unknown south face of the mountain, of which there were not even any pictures. From the last high-altitude camp he climbed with Frank Jäger, who turned back before reaching the summit. Shortly after Messner reached

20445-464: Was officially a member of South Tyrolean Greens , a regionalist and ecologist political party active only in South Tyrol , which de facto acts as a regional branch of the FdV. From 1972 until 1977, Messner was married to Uschi Demeter. With his partner, Canadian photographer Nena Holguin, he has a daughter, Làyla Messner, born in 1981. On 31 July 2009, he married his long time girlfriend Sabine Stehle,

20590-439: Was one of the first and most enthusiastic supporters of alpine style mountaineering in the Himalayas , which consisted of climbing with very light equipment and a minimum of external help. Messner considered the usual expedition style (which he dubbed "siege tactics") disrespectful toward nature and mountains. Before his first major Himalayan climb in 1970, Messner had made a name for himself mainly through his achievements in

20735-408: Was released the following year. On 8 May 1978, Messner and Habeler reached the summit of Mount Everest , becoming the first men to climb it without using supplemental oxygen. Before this ascent, it was disputed whether this was possible at all. Messner and Habeler were members of an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz along the southeast ridge to the summit. Also on this expedition was Reinhard Karl ,

20880-416: Was unsuccessful. In 1985 Richard Bass first postulated and achieved the mountaineering challenge Seven Summits , climbing the highest peaks of each of the seven continents. Messner suggested another list (the Messner or Carstensz list) replacing Mount Kosciuszko with Indonesia 's Puncak Jaya , or Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 m or 16,024 feet). From a mountaineering point of view the Messner list

21025-402: Was used. On 12 July, Messner and Dacher reached the summit; then the weather deteriorated and attempts by other members of the party failed. During his stay in Tibet as part of his Everest solo attempt, Messner explored Shishapangma . A year later, Messner, with Friedel Mutschlechner, Oswald Oelz, and Gerd Baur, set up a base camp on the north side. On 28 May, Messner and Mutschlechner reached

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