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40-403: A cuff is a layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment (shirt, coat, jacket, etc.) at the wrist, or at the ankle end of a trouser leg. The function of turned-back cuffs is to protect the cloth of the garment from fraying, and, when frayed, to allow the cuffs to be readily repaired or replaced, without changing the garment. Cuffs are made by turning back (folding) the material, or

80-596: A category of their specific craft. Knitted lace, therefore, is an example of knitting. This article considers both needle lace and bobbin lace. While some experts say both needle lace and bobbin lace began in Italy in the late 1500s, there are some questions regarding its origins. Originally linen , silk , gold , or silver threads were used. Now lace is often made with cotton thread, although linen and silk threads are still available. Manufactured lace may be made of synthetic fiber . A few modern artists make lace with

120-613: A fine copper or silver wire instead of thread. The word lace is from Middle English , from Old French las , noose, string, from Vulgar Latin * laceum , from Latin laqueus , noose; probably akin to lacere , to entice or ensnare. The Latin word from which "lace" is derived means "noose," and a noose describes an open space outlined with rope or thread. This description applies to many types of open fabric resulting from "looping, plaiting, twisting, or knotting...threads...by hand or machine." There are many types of lace, classified by how they are made. These include: The origin of lace

160-400: A hand or foot and still fit snugly, accomplishing the same purpose. Divided shirt cuffs are of three kinds, depending on how they fasten: Anatomy of the single or double cuff: The fabric is folded back onto itself, thus the inside of the shirt sleeve becomes the outside of the cuff and the outside of the shirt sleeve becomes the inside of the cuff. Most trouser legs are finished by hemming

200-467: A painting by the Dutch artist Johannes Vermeer (1632–1675), completed around 1669–1670. House of Sforza The first son of Muzio Attendolo Sforza , Francesco I Sforza , married Bianca Maria (1425–1468) in 1441. She was the daughter and only heir of the last Duke of Milan , Filippo Maria Visconti . He thus acquired the title of Duke of Milan (1450–1466), ruled Milan for 16 years, and made

240-468: A separate band of material can be sewn on, or worn separately, attached either by buttons or studs. A cuff may display an ornamental border or have lace or some other trimming. In US usage, the word trouser cuffs refers to the folded, finished bottoms of the legs of a pair of trousers. In the UK, while this usage is now sometimes followed, the traditional term for the turned up trouser hem is 'turnup'. Between

280-455: A trip to the region in 1789. Machines to make lace began to be smuggled into the country in the early 1800s, as England did not permit these machines to be exported. The first lacemaking factory opened in Medway, Massachusetts in 1818. Ipswich had its own in 1824. The women there moved from making bobbin lace to decorating the machine-made net lace with darning and tambour stitches, creating what

320-482: Is disputed by historians. An Italian claim is a will of 1493 by the Milanese Sforza family. A Flemish claim is lace on the alb of a worshiping priest in a painting about 1485 by Hans Memling . But since lace evolved from other techniques, it is impossible to say that it originated in any one place. The fragility of lace also means that few exceedingly old specimens are extant. Lace was used by clergy of

360-468: Is known as Limerick lace . Lace was still much in demand in the 19th century. Lace trimmings on dresses, at seams, pockets, and collars were very popular. The lace being made in the United States was based on European patterns. By the turn of the 20th century, needlework and other magazines included lace patterns of a range of types. In North America in the 19th century, missionaries spread

400-662: Is why he became the Patron Saint of lace making. Lace was made in Ireland from the 1730s onwards with several different lace-making schools founded across the country. Many regions acquired a name for high-quality work and others developed a distinctive style. Lace proved to be an important means of income for many poorer women. Several important schools of lace included: Carrickmacross lace, Kenmare lace, Limerick lace and Youghal lace. Some patron saints of lace include: The earliest portraits showing lace are those of

440-573: The Italian Wars , the army of Louis XII of France took Milan from Ludovico Sforza (known as Ludovico il Moro , famous for taking Leonardo da Vinci into his service). After Imperial German troops drove out the French , Maximilian Sforza , son of Ludovico, became Duke of Milan (1512–1515) until the French returned under Francis I of France and imprisoned him. In 1521 Charles V drove out

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480-627: The Papal States , and moved to Rome in 1674, taking the name of Sforza Cesarini. The Sforza became allied with the Borgia family through the arranged marriage (1493–1497) between Lucrezia Borgia and Giovanni (the illegitimate son of Costanzo I of Pesaro ). This alliance failed, as the Borgia family annulled the marriage once the Sforza family were no longer needed. In 1499, in the course of

520-501: The Punto in Aria of linen threads made with a needle, or gold and silver threads." In 1595, Morosina Morosini , another doge's wife, founded a lace workshop for 130 women. In the early 1500s, the production of lace became a paid activity, accomplished by young girls working in the houses of noblewomen, creating lace for household use, and in convents. Lace was a popular Venetian export in

560-518: The 1500s and 1600s, and the demand remained strong in Europe, even when the export of other items exported by Venice during this period slumped. The largest and most intricate pieces of Venetian lace became ruffs and collars for members of the nobility and for aristocrats. Lace was being made in Brussels in the 1400s, and samples of such lace survive. Belgium and Flanders became a major center for

600-494: The 15th and 18th centuries rich men often wore sleeve cuffs ornamented with fine lace. Still today, Catholic clergy have the cuffs of their choir dress ornamented with fine lace. Except on casual attire, shirt cuffs are generally divided down one edge and then fastened together, so they can let a hand through and then fit more snugly around the wrist. Some sweaters and athletic garments (both tops and pants) have cuffs that either contain elastic or are woven so as to stretch around

640-607: The Catholic Church as part of vestments in religious ceremonies. When they first started to use lace and through the 16th century, they primarily used cutwork. Much of their lace was made of gold, silver, and silk. Wealthy people began to use such expensive lace in clothing trimmings and furnishings, such as cushion covers. In the 1300s and 1400s in the Italian states, heavy duties were imposed on lace, and strict sumptuary laws were passed. This led to less demand for lace. In

680-728: The French and restored the younger son of Ludovico, Francesco II Sforza to the duchy. Francesco remained the ruler of Milan until his death in 1535 and as he was childless the Duchy reverted to the Emperor, who passed it to his son Philip II in 1540, thus beginning the period of Spanish rule in Milan. While the House of Sforza has died out over the last century, it is closely related to the Castellini Baldissera family , who inherited

720-591: The Sforzas the heirs of the house of Visconti. The family also held the seigniory of Pesaro , starting with Muzio Attendolo's second son, Alessandro (1409–1473). The Sforza held Pesaro until 1512, after the death of Costanzo II Sforza . Muzio's third son, Bosio (1411–1476), founded the branch of Santa Fiora , who held the title of count of Cotignola ; the Sforza ruled the small county of Santa Fiora in southern Tuscany until 1624. Members of this family also held important ecclesiastical and political positions in

760-419: The beauty of collars and cuffs, needle lace was embroidered with loops and picots. Sumptuary laws in many countries had a major impact on lace wearing and production throughout its early history, though in some countries they were often ignored or worked around. Bobbin and needle lace were both being made in Italy early in the 1400s. Documenting lace in Italy in the 15th century is a list of fine laces from

800-472: The bottom to prevent fraying. Trousers with turn-ups ("cuffs" in American English and elsewhere), after hemming, are rolled outward and sometimes pressed or stitched into place. The functional reason for the cuffs is to add weight to the bottom of the leg, to help the drape of the trousers. Parents may also use cuffs to extend the life of children's clothes by buying pants that are too long, cuffing

840-414: The creation of primarily bobbin lace starting in the 1500s, and some handmade lace is still being produced there today. Belgian-grown flax contributed to the lace industry in the country. It produced extremely fine linen threads that were a critical factor in the superior texture and quality of Belgian lace. Schools were founded to teach lacemaking to the young. The height of the production of lace there

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880-455: The early Florentine School . Later, in the 17th century, lace was very popular and painting styles were at the time realistic. This allows viewers to see the finery of lace. Painted portraits, primarily those of the wealthy or the nobility, depicted costly laces. This presented a challenge to the painters, who needed to represent not only their sitters accurately, but their intricate lace as well. The portrait of Nicolaes Hasselaer seen here

920-713: The economic issues connected to war, and the increased production and use of machine-made laces. American colonists of both British and Dutch origins strove to acquire lace accessories such as caps, ruffs, and other neckwear, and handkerchiefs. American women who afford lace textiles were also able to afford aprons and dresses trimmed with the technique or made only from lace. Because of sumptuary laws, such as one in Massachusetts in 1634, American citizens were not allowed to own or make their lace textiles. Sumptuary laws prevented spending on extravagance and luxury and classified who could own or make lace. This indicates that lace

960-707: The end of the 16th century. They continued to make pillow and other lace, as they had in their homeland, but Honiton lace never got the acclaim that lace from France, Italy, and Belgium did. While the lace in Devon stayed stable, in the lace-making areas of the South Midlands there were changes brought by different groups of émigrés : Flemings, French Huguenots, and later, French escaping the Revolution . Catherine of Aragon , while exiled in Ampthill, England,

1000-517: The fashions popular there, influenced the lace that started to be made in France. It was delicate and graceful, compared to the heavier needle or point-laces of Venice. Examples of French lace are Alençon , Argentan , and Chantilly . The 17th century court of King Louis the XIV of France was known for its extravagance, and during his reign lace, particularly the delicate Alençon and Argentan varieties,

1040-526: The gold lace from the sleeves of his coat "as it is fit [he] should", possibly in order to avoid charges of ostentatious living. In 1840, Britain's Queen Victoria was married in lace, influencing the wedding dress style until now. The decline of the lace industry in England began about 1780, as was happening elsewhere. Some of the reasons include the increased popularity of clothing in the Classical style,

1080-499: The inventory of Beatrice d'Este, Duchess of Milan , from 1493. In Venice, lace making was originally the province of leisured noblewomen, using it as a pastime. Some of the wives of doges also supported lacemaking in the Republic . One, Giovanna Malipiero Dandolo , showed support in 1457 for a law protecting lacemakers. In 1476, the lace trade was seriously affected by a law which disallowed "silver and embroidery on any fabric and

1120-577: The knowledge of lace making to the Native American tribes. Sibyl Carter , an Episcopalian missionary, began to teach lacemaking to Ojibwa women in Minnesota in 1890. Classes were being held for members of many tribes throughout the US by the first decade of the 1900s St. John Francis Regis guided many women out of prostitution by establishing them in the lace making and embroidery trade, which

1160-404: The leg and then unrolling it as the child grows. Originally, however, it started as men rolling up their trousers to avoid getting mud splashed on them when roads were still unpaved. In the late 1980s and early 1990s young people in some countries would tightly fold the pant leg longitudinally along the leg, then roll the bottom of the pant leg to "lock" the long pleat in place at the bottom. This

1200-582: The mid-1400s some lacemakers turned to using flax , which cost less, while others migrated, bringing the industry to other countries. However, lace did not come into widespread use until the 16th century in the northwestern part of the European continent. The popularity of lace increased rapidly and the cottage industry of lace making spread throughout Europe.The late 16th century marked the rapid development of lace, both needle lace and bobbin lace became dominant in both fashion as well as home décor. For enhancing

1240-532: The revocation of the Edict of Nantes in France in 1685, many Huguenot lacemakers moved to Hamburg and Berlin. The earliest known lace pattern book was printed in Cologne in 1527. The lace that was made in England prior to the introduction of bobbin lace in the mid 1500s was primarily cutwork or drawn thread work . There is a 1554 mention of Sir Thomas Wyatt wearing a ruff trimmed with bone lace (some bobbins at

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1280-556: The time were made of bone). The court of Queen Elizabeth of England maintained close ties with the French court, and so French lace began to be seen and appreciated in England. Lace was used on her court gowns, and became fashionable. There are two distinct areas of England where lacemaking was a significant industry: Devon and part of the South Midlands . Belgian lacemakers were encouraged to settle in Honiton in Devon at

1320-404: The wrist, and are traditionally associated with bespoke tailoring . Lace Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is split into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace , although there are other types of lace, such as knitted or crocheted lace. Other laces such as these are considered as

1360-705: Was being made in that colony at the time. Lacemaking was being taught in boarding schools by the mid 1700s, and newspaper advertisements starting in the early 1700s offered to teach the technique. Also in the 18th century, Ipswich , Massachusetts had become the only place in America known for producing handmade lace. By 1790, women in Ipswich, who were primarily from the British Midlands , were making 42,000 yards of silk bobbin lace intended for trimmings. George Washington reportedly purchased Ipswich Lace on

1400-558: Was done to slim the appearance of the legs. Reportedly, this "tight-rolled pants" or "pegged pants" fad made a comeback in the 2010s, beginning in London. This was followed by a trend in tailored trousers for younger wearers no longer being made long enough drape and 'break' over the wearer's instep, but to stop at the top of the shoe, avoiding a break. The buttons and buttonholes at the end of suit jacket sleeves are generally decorative and non-functional. "Surgeon’s cuffs" can be opened at

1440-461: Was extremely popular as court dress. The frontange , a tall lace headdress, became fashionable in France at this time. Louis XIV's finance minister, Jean Baptiste Colbert , strengthened the lace industry by establishing lace schools and workshops in the country. Lacemaking in Spain was established early, as by the 1600s its Point d'Espagne lace , made of gold and silver thread, was very popular. Lace

1480-454: Was in the 1700s. Brussels was known for Point d'Angleterre , Lierre and Bruges also were known for their own styles of lace. Belgian lacemakers either originated or developed laces such as Brussels or Brabant Lace, Lace of Flanders, Mechlin , Valenciennes and Binche . Lace arrived in France when Catherine de Medici , newly married to King Henry II in 1533, brought Venetian lace-makers to her new homeland. The French royal court and

1520-529: Was made for use in churches and for the mantilla . Lacemaking may have come to Spain from Italy in the 1500s, or from Flanders, its province at the time. This lace was much admired, and was made throughout the country. Barbara Uttmann learned how to make bobbin lace as a girl from a Protestant refugee. In 1561 she started a lace-making workshop in Annaberg . By the time of her death in 1575, there were over 30,000 lacemakers in that area of Germany. Following

1560-467: Was painted by Frans Hals in about 1627. It depicts a man dressed in a black garment with a lace collar. The collar is detailed enough that those who are expert in lace identification can tell what pattern it is. Hals created the lace effect with dabs of grey and white, using black paint to indicate the spaces between the threads. An image of an anonymous female artisan appears in The Lacemaker ,

1600-510: Was said to have supported the lace makers there by burning all her lace, and commissioning new pieces. This may be the origin of the lacemaker's holiday, Cattern's Day. On this day (25 or 26 November) lacemakers were given a day off from work, and Cattern cakes - small dough cakes made with caraway seeds , were used to celebrate. The English diarist Samuel Pepys often wrote about the lace used for his, his wife's, and his acquaintances' clothing, and on 10 May 1669, noted that he intended to remove

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