The afro is a hair style created by combing out natural growth of afro-textured hair , or specifically styled with chemical curling products by individuals with naturally curly or straight hair. The hairstyle can be created by combing the hair away from the scalp, dispersing a distinctive curl pattern, and forming the hair into a rounded shape, much like a cloud or puff ball.
123-476: For people with wavy or straight hair, the hair style is created with the help of permanent hair structure-changing creams or gels and/or other solidifying liquids to temporarily hold the hair in place. Particularly popular in the African community of the late 1960s and early 1970s, the hairstyle is often shaped and maintained with the assistance of a wide-toothed comb colloquially known as an Afro pick . "Afro"
246-405: A Czech hairdresser called Josef Mayer. In this method, the hair was fed through a small clamp which, after winding, would hold the two ends of a roller. The ends of the hair were held on the roller which was wound around a point until it reached the clamp into which it was inserted. For obvious reasons, this was called point-winding. Mayer attempted to claim a patent on this method of winding, which
369-463: A chewing stick and comb in the center. Variations of the afro have been worn by one or both sexes in the many disparate cultures of the African continent . Due to the hairstyle's links to members of the civil rights and Black Power movements, the afro was seen by several outside cultures as a dangerous symbol of political unrest, including Tanzania where the Afro was banned in the 1970s because it
492-413: A perm or permanent (sometimes called a "curly perm" to distinguish it from a " straight perm "), is a hairstyle consisting of waves or curls set into the hair. The curls may last a number of months, hence the name. Perms may be applied using thermal or chemical means. In the latter method, chemicals are applied to the hair, which is then wrapped around forms to produce waves and curls. The same process
615-561: A "major concern in the developing world". Widely treatable diseases in the developed countries of the First World, malaria and tuberculosis needlessly claim many lives in the developing countries of the Third World. Each year 900,000 people die from malaria and combating the disease accounts for 40% of health spending in many African countries. The International Corporation for Assigned Names and Numbers ( ICANN ) announced that
738-434: A 'Milk Wave' that used fresh milk as part of the lotion as well as a children's perm. Other types of perms included no-lotion perms that used specially treated end papers to produce the wave (PACE, SELF) and self-neutralizing perms that needed no neutralizer but had to set by drying the hair on the perm rods after rinsing out the wave solution. No-mix liquid neutralizers were introduced as many perms were air-neutralized or used
861-546: A (mostly U.S.) alternative to the Marxist and neo-Marxist strategies promoted by the " Second World states" like the Soviet Union. It was used to explain how developing Third World states would naturally evolve into developed First World States, and it was partially grounded in liberal economic theory and a form of Talcott Parsons' sociological theory. The United Nations 's ESCWA has written that globalization "is
984-546: A different curl effect. The wrapping method is either spiral or croquinole, and various types and the positioning of end papers can be used with any combination of the above. Generally, smaller rods will produce smaller, tighter curls and increase the appearance of shortening the hair. The chemical solution used in the perming process is determined by the client's hair type and the pH of the solution. Classic alkaline perms are used for stronger, coarser hair. They work at room temperature and usually contain ammonium thioglycolate in
1107-417: A dryer, after covering the wrapped head with a plastic cap. The reaction is endothermic and the additional heat causes the pH to rise from 6.9 to 7.2. Perms today use this method with sodium thioglycolate instead of ammonium thioglycolate, at a pH of 8 to 9.5. Perming hair with the sodium thioglycolate method takes only 15–30 minutes of exposure to the sodium thioglycolate solution before a neutralizer solution
1230-514: A few weeks before washing away, leaving hair in virtually the same condition as before. Other types included customized versions that let consumers adjust the curl level before making it permanent and spot perms that let certain parts of the hair be curled (bangs, crown, ends), leaving the rest of the hair untouched. Another brand that was a household name in Britain in the late 1960s and 1970s was Twink (home perm). First World The concept of
1353-415: A gas or alcohol flame and the correct temperature was achieved by testing the tongs on a newspaper; if the paper browned slightly it was about right. The waving itself was safe if care was taken to keep the tongs away from the scalp. The procedure was to comb a lock of hair towards the operator, moving the comb slowly with one hand to maintain some tension, while applying the tongs to the hair successively down
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#17327657485601476-443: A head of hair. There were also changes in the equipment. Icall pioneered the use of plastics in hairdressing equipment, specifically a thermosetting plastic, ( Bakelite ) which was used not only because of its electrical properties in the windings of motors and heaters, but in the outer coverings of the heaters. They were less affected by corrosion and were less likely to burn the fingers of the hairdresser. Icall also used Bakelite for
1599-514: A machine for home use that was sold for fifteen dollars. However, his machine made little impression in Europe and his first attempts were not even mentioned in the professional press, perhaps because they were too long-winded, cumbersome and dangerous. Eugene Suter was a Swiss immigrant who set up a fashionable ladies' salon in London's West End. He claimed to have come from Paris, which in those days
1722-484: A new Guinness World Record on 11 September 2022, for the largest female afro, which measures 165 cm (5.41 ft) in circumference, 25 cm (9.84 in) in height, and 26 cm (10.24 in) in width. She has broken the Guinness World Record for the largest afro three times, including in 2010 and 2021. Dugas says she began growing her afro in 1999 and learned how to style and cut it herself after an unsuccessful trip to
1845-426: A powder that was mixed with water or a powder/liquid combination. Other brands included Richard Hudnut, Ogilvie, Revlon and Nutri-Tonic. At the peak of the second wave of popularity in the 1970s and 1980s, a number of new brands and types of perms were introduced including no-ammonia perms and "soft" perms (Rave) which guaranteed no-frizz results even on bleached or tinted hair, as well as temporary perms that lasted only
1968-426: A powerful political symbol which reflected black pride and a rejection of notions of assimilation and integration—not unlike the long and untreated hair sported by the mainly White hippies . To some African Americans, the afro also represented a reconstitutive link to West Africa and Central Africa . However, some critics have suggested that the afro hairstyle is not particularly African: In his book Welcome to
2091-406: A preliminary preparation of the hair, such as washing, cutting or tapering, the hair was combed into up to about 22 sections or locks, a process known a sectioning or squaring off. Each lock of hair was then wound onto the curler (which was basically a rod standing perpendicular to the head), starting at the bottom using the hair nearest the scalp and proceeding spirally up the curler for the length of
2214-405: A professional hairstylist. She states that she broke the record to personally advocate for the beauty of natural hair and to encourage self-love. A "Jewfro" ( portmanteau of the words Jew and afro) or (rarely) "Isro" (portmanteau of the words Israel and afro) refers to an afro when worn by Jews. The term has its roots in the 1960s and 1970s when many prominent figures were described as sporting
2337-434: A set of twins to advertise their products; one with a salon perm and one with the home perm. They introduced a number of types and brands over the next four decades (Silkwave, UnCurly, Tonette, Silver Curl, Prom, Scatter Perm, Lightwaves, Epic Waves) and a formula to remove curl: Curl-Free. The other popular brand was LILT by soap manufacturer Procter & Gamble which included a foam perm in a can called "Push Button" Lilt and
2460-422: A structure from which to distribute the electricity to the heaters, as well as to keep all of them in the correct position and orientation, the chandelier helped minimize the weight of the entire system while also keeping things tidy. Because of expense, the early models only had a few tubular heaters, and permanent-waving process took place in more than one stage. As the process became more popular and competitive,
2583-431: A thicker winding and so heat takes longer to penetrate the core of the winding. Root winding is heated over a greater length and the thickness of the winding will depend on the overlap between turns. Bari-Woollss was probably instrumental in introducing a new factor-redox reduction. In chemistry, this is the opposite of oxidation and can mean the removal of oxygen or, in this case, the addition of hydrogen, which by breaking
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#17327657485602706-463: A variety of factors that developing countries must have if they are to participate in the global economy. Outsourcing , according to Grossman and Helpman, refers to the process of "subcontracting an ever expanding set of activities, ranging from product design to assembly, from research and development to marketing, distribution and after-sales service". Many companies have moved to outsourcing services in which they no longer specifically need or have
2829-453: A whole head of hair could be processed in one sitting, using up to 22 heaters, some of which might be croquignole. Although heat was required for perming, it was soon realized that if an improvement had to be made over the Marcel method, other means were necessary to avoid overheating and to speed up the waving process. The use of water on its own was an obvious choice, particularly as the hair
2952-510: A widely-used term that can be defined in a number of different ways". Joyce Osland from San Jose State University wrote: "Globalization has become an increasingly controversial topic, and the growing number of protests around the world has focused more attention on the basic assumptions of globalization and its effects." "Globalization is not new, though. For thousands of years, people—and, later, corporations—have been buying from and selling to each other in lands at great distances, such as through
3075-565: A willingness to play by market rules. If these conditions are in place, multinational corporations will transfer via their offshore subsidiaries or to their offshore suppliers, the specific production technologies and market linkages necessary to participate in the global economy. By themselves, developing countries, even if well-educated, cannot produce at the quality levels demanded in high-value-added industries and cannot market what they produce even in low-value-added industries such as textiles or shoes. Put bluntly, multinational companies possess
3198-520: Is a first cousin to the Afro, the style that is popular with blacks. In the case of the Jewish junior from Brooklyn , though, the bushy dark hair, that is piled high on his head has been called an "Isro"." Novelist Judith Rossner was described in a Chicago Tribune profile as the "grown-up Wunderkind with an open, oval face framed by a Jewish Afro." The Hadendoa Beja of northeastern Africa were nicknamed " Fuzzy-Wuzzies " by British troops during
3321-409: Is applied to bring the pH back to normal and re-bond the hair. The permanent relaxer straightens the hair instead of curling it. The same chemical methods can be used for this, but the hair is not wrapped around rods. Other types of modern perms include exothermic perms, which are self timing and self heating; and neutral, or low pH, thioglycolate free perms. Digital perms were introduced in
3444-400: Is considered to be countries with high-income economies. The high-income economies are equated to mean developed and industrialized countries. The terms "First World", "Second World", and "Third World" were originally used to divide the world's nations into three categories. The model did not emerge to its endstate all at once. The complete overthrow of the pre–World War II status quo, known as
3567-506: Is derived from the term " Afr-ican ". The hairstyle is also referred to by some as a "natural hairstyle". In most cases the hair is left untreated by relaxers or straightening chemicals and is instead allowed to express its natural curl or kinkiness. In the 1860s, a hairstyle similar to the afro was worn by the Circassian beauties . Sometimes known as "Moss-haired girls", they were a group of women exhibited in sideshow attractions in
3690-528: Is the European Union (EU). The European Union is an agreement in which countries voluntarily decide to build common governmental institutions to which they delegate some individual national sovereignty so that decisions can be made democratically on a higher level of common interest for Europe as a whole. The result is a union of 27 Member States covering 4,233,255.3 square kilometres (1,634,469.0 sq mi) with roughly 450 million people. In total,
3813-435: Is the "main contributor to the increasing populations of U.S. and Europe". While these emigrations have greatly contributed to globalization, they have also precipitated trends like brain drain and problems with repatriation . They have also created immigration and governmental burden problems for the countries (i.e., First World) that people emigrate to. Some have argued that the most important human population problem for
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3936-448: Is used for chemical straightening or relaxing, with the hair being flattened instead of curled during the chemical reaction. The first person to produce a practical thermal method was Marcel Grateau in 1872. He devised a pair of specially manufactured tongs, in which one of the arms had a circular cross-section and the other a concave one, so that one fitted inside the other when the tongs were closed. The tongs were generally heated over
4059-536: The Cold War , during which the term First World was often used because of its political, social, and economic relevance. The term itself was first introduced in the late 1940s by the United Nations . Today, the terms are slightly outdated and have no official definition. However, the "First World" is generally thought of as the capitalist, industrial, wealthy, and developed countries. This definition includes
4182-663: The Eastern Bloc . The circumstances of these two blocs were so different that they were essentially two worlds, however, they were not numbered first and second. The onset of the Cold War is marked by Winston Churchill 's famous "Iron Curtain" speech. In this speech, Churchill describes the division of the West and East to be so solid that it could be called an iron curtain. In 1952, the French demographer Alfred Sauvy coined
4305-625: The European American standard of beauty, and led to a negative view of kinky hair. As a result, the practice of straightening gained popularity among African Americans. The process of straightening the hair often involved applying caustic substances, such as relaxers containing lye , which needed to be applied by an experienced hairstylist so as to avoid burning the scalp and ears. Those who chose not to artificially treat their hair would often opt to style it into tight braids or cornrows . With all of these hairstyling methods, one ran
4428-962: The European Monetary Institute , and the opening of the European Central Bank . In 1993, at the Copenhagen European Council, the European Union took a decisive step towards expanding the EU, what they called the Fifth Enlargement, agreeing that "the associated countries in Central and Eastern Europe that so desire shall become members of the European Union". Thus, enlargement was no longer a question of if, but when and how. The European Council stated that accession could occur when
4551-712: The First World was originally one of the " Three Worlds " formed by the global political landscape of the Cold War , as it grouped together those countries that were aligned with the Western Bloc of the United States. This grouping was directly opposed to the Second World , which similarly grouped together those countries that were aligned with the Eastern Bloc of the Soviet Union . However, after
4674-539: The Mahdist War due to their large and mop-like hairstyles, which they shaped by applying butter or mutton fat . In Somalia, some young men of the nomadic and sedentary communities would grow their hair long and carefully comb it into rather large bushes, which they would then hold in place with ghee . This elaborate hairstyle was quite distinct from another coiffure found among other Somalis, who would instead grow long and fluff out their fine, straight hair and place
4797-715: The Rastafari movement. Not unlike the afro's significance among the members of the American Black Power movement, dreadlocks symbolized black pride and empowerment among the Rastafari of the Caribbean. The long, wide teeth of the "afro pick" or afro comb were designed to dig down to the scalp, allowing the hair to be stretched out from the roots into a desired style or shape using a picking motion. Perm (hairstyle) A permanent wave , commonly called
4920-849: The 2002 film Austin Powers in Goldmember . On July 3, 2019, California became the first U.S. state to prohibit discrimination over natural hair. Governor Gavin Newsom signed the CROWN Act into law, banning employers and schools from discriminating against hairstyles such as afros, braids, twists, and dreadlocks. Likewise, later in 2019 Assembly Bill 07797 became law in New York state; it "prohibits race discrimination based on natural hair or hairstyles." Aevin Dugas from Gonzales, Louisiana, USA, set
5043-468: The 21st century and in use especially in modern Asian cultures. The process was patented and invented by a Japanese company, Paimore Ltd. There are two parts to a perm: the physical action of wrapping the hair, and the chemical phase. Both of these can affect the result. Important physical variables involved are what type of rod is used, how the hair is wrapped and how end papers are used. The two most common types of rods are straight and concave; each giving
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5166-419: The Cold War ended with the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, the definition largely shifted to instead refer to any country with a well-functioning democratic system with little prospects of political risk , in addition to a strong rule of law , a capitalist economy with economic stability , and a relatively high mean standard of living . Various ways in which these metrics are assessed are through
5289-524: The Cold War, left two superpowers (the United States and the Soviet Union ) vying for ultimate global supremacy. They created two camps, known as blocs. These blocs formed the basis of the concepts of the First and Second Worlds. Early in the Cold War era, NATO and the Warsaw Pact were created by the United States and the Soviet Union, respectively. They were also referred to as the Western Bloc and
5412-567: The EU is linked to globalization...the EU has a crucial role to play in making globalization work properly...". In a 2014 speech at the European Parliament, the Italian PM Matteo Renzi stated, "We are the ones who can bring civilization to globalization". Just as the concept of the First World came about as a result of World War II, so did the European Union. In 1951 the beginnings of the EU were founded with
5535-518: The Earth Summit in Rio. It proposed to place the burden of protecting the climate on the United States and other First World countries. Countries that were considered to be developing, such as China and India, were not required to approve the treaty because they were more concerned that restricting emissions would further restrain their development. Until the recent past, little attention was paid to
5658-486: The European Union produces almost a third of the world's gross national product and the member states speak more than 23 languages. All of the European Union countries are joined together by a hope to promote and extend peace, democracy, cooperativeness, stability, prosperity, and the rule of law. In a 2007 speech, Benita Ferrero-Waldner, the European Commissioner for External Relations, said, "The future of
5781-777: The European Union. A majority of multinational corporations find their origins in First World countries. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, multinational corporations proliferated as more countries focused on global trade. The series of General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) and later the World Trade Organization (WTO) essentially ended the protectionist measures that were dissuading global trade. The eradication of these protectionist measures, while creating avenues for economic interconnection, mostly benefited developed countries, who by using their power at GATT summits, forced developing and underdeveloped countries to open their economies to Western goods. As
5904-612: The First World and the Second World, they were targets for recruitment. In the quest for expanding their sphere of influence, the United States (core of the First World) tried to establish pro-U.S. regimes in the Third World. In addition, because the Soviet Union (core of the Second World) also wanted to expand, the Third World often became a site for conflict. Some examples include Vietnam and Korea . Success lay with
6027-475: The First World if at the end of the war, the country became capitalistic and democratic, and with the Second World, if the country became communist. While Vietnam as a whole was eventually communized, only the northern half of Korea remained communist. The Domino Theory largely governed United States policy regarding the Third World and their rivalry with the Second World. In light of the Domino Theory,
6150-502: The First World. Information about the comparatively higher living standards of the First World comes through television, commercial advertisements and foreign visitors to their countries. This exposure causes two changes: a) living standards in some Third World countries rise and b) this exposure creates hopes and many from Third World countries emigrate—both legally and illegally—to these First World countries in hopes of attaining that living standard and prosperity. In fact, this emigration
6273-457: The First World; however, they follow the same idea. John D. Daniels, past president of the Academy of International Business, defines the First World to be consisting of "high-income industrial countries". Scholar and Professor George J. Bryjak defines the First World to be the "modern, industrial, capitalist countries of North America and Europe". L. Robert Kohls, former director of training for
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#17327657485606396-623: The Jungle: New Positions in Black Cultural Studies , cultural critic Kobena Mercer argued that the contemporary African society of the mid-20th century did not consider either hairstyle to denote any particular "Africanness"; conversely, some Africans felt that these styles signified " First-worldness ". Similarly, Brackette F. Williams stated in her book Stains on My Name, War in My Veins: Guyana and
6519-662: The Midwest Beauty Show in Chicago, Ralph L. Evans and Everett G. McDonough showed a heatless system for the first time. Their method used bi-sulfide solution and was often applied at the salon , left on while the client went home and removed the next day, leading it to be called the overnight wave. With the outbreak of World War II in 1939, all production of such equipment stopped in Europe and hardly recovered afterwards, being replaced either by home heater kits or cold-waving methods. In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented
6642-545: The Politics of Cultural Struggle that African nationalists were irritated by the afro's adoption by African Americans as a symbol of their African heritage; they saw this trend as an example of Western arrogance. The afro was adopted by both men and women and was a hairstyle that was easier to maintain by oneself, without requiring frequent and sometimes costly visits to the hairstylist as was often experienced by people who chose to braid, straighten or relax their hair. Due to
6765-509: The Third World. However, China leads the world in total emissions, but its large population skews its per-capita statistic lower than those of more developed nations. As large consumers of fossil fuels , First World countries drew attention to environmental pollution. The Kyoto Protocol is a treaty that is based on the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change , which was finalized in 1992 at
6888-643: The U.S. Information Agency and the Meridian International Center in Washington, D.C., uses First World and "fully developed" as synonyms. Varying definitions of the term First World and the uncertainty of the term in today's world leads to different indicators of First World status. In 1945, the United Nations used the terms first, second, third, and fourth worlds to define the relative wealth of nations (although popular use of
7011-545: The U.S. saw winning the proxy wars in the Third World as a measure of the "credibility of U.S. commitments all over the world". The movement of people and information largely characterizes the inter-world relationships in the present day. A majority of breakthroughs and innovation originate in Western Europe and the U.S. and later their effects permeate globally. As judged by the Wharton School of Business at
7134-592: The United States and the Soviet Union, respectively. The Cold War, as its name suggests, was a primarily ideological struggle between the First and Second Worlds, or more specifically, the U.S. and the Soviet Union. Multiple doctrines and plans dominated Cold War dynamics including the Truman Doctrine and Marshall Plan (from the U.S.) and the Molotov Plan (from the Soviet Union). The extent of
7257-669: The United States by P. T. Barnum and others. These women claimed to be descendants of the Circassian people in the North Caucasus region, and were marketed to White audiences captivated by the "exotic East" as pure examples of the Caucasian race who were kept as sexual slaves in Turkish harems. It has been argued that this portrayal of a Caucasian woman as a rescued slave during the American Civil War played on
7380-641: The University of Pennsylvania, most of the Top 30 Innovations of the Last 30 Years were from former First World countries (e.g., the U.S. and countries in Western Europe). The disparity between knowledge in the First World as compared to the Third World is evident in healthcare and medical advancements. Deaths from water-related illnesses have largely been eliminated in "wealthier nations", while they are still
7503-465: The bonds of the keratin in the hair, allowed waving to take place more easily. This resulted in addition of a sulfite, bisulfite or metabisulfite to Icall reagents, sulfur dioxide , a reducing agent, being evolved on heating. The only alternative to sulfites at the time would have been mercaptans which are unpleasant to use. However, later alternatives were found which led to the development of cold-waving. Bari-Woollss left Icall in about 1934 to take over
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#17327657485607626-401: The capability of handling themselves. This is due to considerations of what the companies can have more control over. Whatever companies tend to not have much control over or need to have control over will outsource activities to firms that they consider "less competing". According to SourcingMag.com, the process of outsourcing can take the following four phases. Outsourcing is among some of
7749-409: The chemistry of hair, and engaged a chemist by the name of Bari-Woollss, who specialized in the subject. He carried out controlled experiments on known factors such as the effect of heat, water/steam and alkalinity and experimented on variations of the winding process, such as the type of hair, the tension or tightness of winding, the flatness of winding, the overlap and pitch. His practical lectures on
7872-460: The cold wave, the precursor to the modern perm. It used no machines and no heat. The hair was wrapped on rods and a reduction lotion containing ammonium thioglycolate was applied. This chemical breaks open the disulfide linkages between the polypeptide bonds in the keratin; the protein structure in the hair. The disulfide bonds give hair its elasticity, and can be reformed with chemicals. Next, an oxidation lotion—hydrogen peroxide—was applied to close
7995-473: The countries of North America and Western Europe , Japan , South Korea , Australia , and New Zealand . In contemporary society, the First World is viewed as countries that have the most advanced economies, the greatest influence, the highest standards of living, and the greatest technology. After the Cold War, these countries of the First World included member states of NATO , U.S.-aligned states, neutral countries that were developed and industrialized, and
8118-460: The countries that were not in this Cold War division, i.e., the unaligned and uninvolved states in the "East-West Conflict". With the coining of the term Third World directly, the first two groups came to be known as the "First World" and "Second World" respectively. Here the three-world system emerged. With the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, the Eastern Bloc ceased to exist and with it,
8241-452: The creation of European Coal and Steel Community (ECSC). From the beginning of its inception, countries in the EU were judged by many standards, including economic ones. This is where the relation between globalization, the EU, and First World countries arises. Especially during the 1990s when the EU focused on economic policies such as the creation and circulation of the Euro , the creation of
8364-414: The disulfide bridges again, and the hair was reformed to the shape of the rod. The entire process took 6–8 hours at room temperature. In the 1970s, acid perms were invented. These ammonia-free acid perms, sometimes called buffered waves, use glyceryl monothioglycolate in the place of ammonia. Acid perms, or buffered wavers, are slower but gentler to the hair. Heat is usually added by placing the client under
8487-522: The early 1970s; the introduction of the afro to the mainstream and its adoption by people of non-African descent caused the afro to lose its radical , political edge. The 1970s saw an increase in the popularity of braided hairstyles such as cornrows among both sexes of African Americans. The afro saw some resurgence in both the 1990s and the 2000s. These afros would take varied forms, some incorporating elements such as braids, beads or twists, as well as various sizes, from close-cropped natural hairstyles all
8610-417: The editorship of an encyclopedic volume on women's hairdressing. By 1930, the process of permanent-waving was well established and its importance can be gauged if one considers that the majority of middle-class women, at a rough estimate, had their hair set once a week and permed perhaps once every three months as new hair replaced the waved hair. Meanwhile, hairdressers sought to improve the process and reduce
8733-408: The enslaved black woman in one curiosity. During the history of slavery in the United States , most African Americans styled their hair in an attempt to mimic the styles of the predominantly white society in which they lived. Afro-textured hair , characterized by its tight kinks, has been described as being kinky, coarse, cottony, nappy, or woolly. These characteristics represented the antithesis of
8856-479: The examination of a country's GDP , GNP , literacy rate , life expectancy , and Human Development Index . In colloquial usage, "First World" typically refers to "the highly developed industrialized nations often considered the Westernized countries of the world". After World War II , the world split into two large geopolitical blocs, separating into spheres of communism and capitalism . This led to
8979-538: The famed Silk Road across Central Asia that connected China and Europe during the Middle Ages. Likewise, for centuries, people and corporations have invested in enterprises in other countries. In fact, many of the features of the current wave of globalization are similar to those prevailing before the outbreak of the First World War in 1914." The most prominent example of globalization in the first world
9102-542: The first Internationalized Domain Names (IDNs) would be available in the summer of 2010. These include non-Latin domains such as Chinese, Arabic, and Russian. This is one way that the flow of information between the First and Third Worlds may become more even. The movement of information and technology from the First World to various Third World countries has created a general "aspir(ation) to First World living standards". The Third World has lower living standards as compared to
9225-453: The former British Colonies that were considered developed. According to Nations Online, the member countries of NATO during the Cold War included: The US Aligned States included: Former British Colonies included: Neutral and more or less industrialized capitalist countries included: Since the end of the Cold War , the original definition of the term "First World" is no longer necessarily applicable. There are varying definitions of
9348-418: The hair and heated, was not only due to the chemicals they contained, but also the effect of the water. Water not only played a part in "steaming" the hair, but there was better heat control, because while there was water, the temperature hardly passed 100 °C. However, this evaporated the water, and it was found that by wrapping the windings with aluminium foil, the hair stayed moist for longer, and also kept
9471-632: The hair structure. A number of brands of home permanent kits were available since the invention of the 'cold wave' in the 1940s, but their numbers have decreased as permanent waves are not as popular as they were in the 1980s. The first popular home permanent was the TONI brand produced by the Toni Home Permanent Company (founded by brothers Neison and Irving Harris ) at its facility in Forest Lake, Minnesota . The Toni company used
9594-579: The hair, a practice that can result in damage to the hair and scalp. In the mid-1960s, the afro hairstyle began in a fairly tightly coiffed form, such as the hairstyle that became popular among members of the Black Panther Party . As the 1960s progressed towards the 1970s, popular hairstyles, both within and outside of the African-American community, became longer and longer. As a result, the late 1960s/early 1970s saw an expansion in
9717-464: The hairdresser himself or sold commercially by the manufacturers of the machine. Two common ingredients were borax and ammonia , which are mildly alkaline (having a high pH ) but are relatively harmless. Until about 1930, most progress was empirical, that is, each hairdresser tended to use a method which he had found to be useful. By then, although some academic work had been done on the subject of hair, Calvete felt that more research should be done on
9840-544: The hairstyle. In 1970, the Los Angeles Times called college football star Scott Marcus a flower child with "golden brown hair ... in ringlets around his head in what he calls a Jewish afro style". The New York Times in a 1971 article on Harvard University 's "hairy" basketball team, wrote that Captain Brian Newmark "hasn't had a haircut since last May, and his friends have suggested his hairdo
9963-408: The heater was replaced by a cord that took the weight of the heater, and the heater was heated by plugging into a socket in the chandelier. Outwardly, the machine looked similar to the earlier model, but at no time was there an electric potential near the head. Also during this time, in the United States a machine-less method that applied preheated clamps over the wrapped rods was invented, In 1931, at
10086-490: The high temperature used, the process tended to degrade the hair. However, in spite of its drawbacks, forms of Marcel waving have persisted until today, when speedy results and low cost are important. In the Western world, long hair was standard for women until the 1920s, when flappers cut their hair short (into a " bob ") as a form of rebellion against tradition. As the demand for self-determination grew among women, hair
10209-604: The idea since 1896. Previously, wigs had been set with caustic chemicals to form curls, but these recipes were too harsh to use next to human skin. His method, called the spiral heat method, was only useful for long hair. The hair was wrapped in a spiral around rods connected to a machine with an electric heating device. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) was applied and the hair was heated to 212 °F (100 °C) or more for an extended period of time. The process used about twelve 2-pound (0.9 kg) brass rollers and took six hours to complete. These hot rollers were kept from touching
10332-508: The interests of Third World countries. This is because most international relations scholars have come from the industrialized, First World nations. As more countries have continued to become more developed, the interests of the world have slowly started to shift. However, First World nations still have many more universities, professors, journals, and conferences, which has made it very difficult for Third World countries to gain legitimacy and respect with their new ideas and methods of looking at
10455-472: The kinky pattern prominent in Afro-textured hair , as it grows longer it has a tendency to extend outward from the head, resulting in a domelike hairstyle which is easily molded and sculpted into the desired shape. While the afro was a much less invasive and time-consuming hairstyle choice for many African Americans, some chose to achieve a more voluminous version of the afro by backcombing or teasing
10578-440: The lock of hair towards the point. Each time the tongs were applied, they were moved slightly in a direction normal to the lock of hair, thus producing a continuous flat or two-dimensional wave. Skill using the wrist could produce slight variations of the wave. Thus, Marcel waving produced a two-dimensional wave, by thermal means only and the change was produced by plastic flow of the hair, rather than by any chemical means. Because of
10701-433: The lock. For this reason, the process was colloquially referred to as root winding. Considerable ingenuity was exercised in designing the curler to minimize the time, effort and difficulties entailed in winding. In early models, the heaters had a tendency to flop downward on to the head, but with improved designs, they tended to point outwards (see illustration). A second type of curler was invented later, allegedly in 1924 by
10824-450: The many reasons for increased competition within developing countries. Aside from being a reason for competition, many First World countries see outsourcing, in particular offshore outsourcing , as an opportunity for increased income. As a consequence, the skill level of production in foreign countries handling the outsourced services increases within the economy; and the skill level within the domestic developing countries can decrease. It
10947-514: The name Icall, Ltd. The simultaneous manufacture of two competing lines would inevitably result in conflict. Eugene company had a factory in Edgware Road , London. Its products included colour rinses, lustre-lending shampoos, setting lotions and patented steaming sachets as well as its curlers and electric dryer. At least two dozen of the steaming sachets were used for each perm. The company published its own magazine, The Eugène Waver , which
11070-415: The outer casings of hand-held hair-dryers and also for the large linings of pedestal hair-dryers. It can be imagined that at a time when electrical installations were not to today's standards and at one time were not even grounded, the application of electrical windings to wet hair resulted in enough accidents to worry women. Icall developed what was called the "wireless" system, in which the electric lead to
11193-516: The overall size of afros. Some of the entertainers and sociopolitical figures of the time known for wearing larger afros include political activist Angela Davis , actress Pam Grier , rock musician Jimi Hendrix , singer Miriam Makeba , and the members of the musical groups the Jackson 5 and the Supremes . In contrast, the afro's popularity among African Americans had already started to wane by
11316-420: The pH range of 9-10. Acid perms are used on more delicate or thinner hair. They require outside heat application and usually contain glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMT) in the pH range of 6.5-8.2. Glyceryl monothioglycolate is considered a recent innovation in perming technology due to its high curling power near the pH of hair. This allows hair cuticles to remain closed during the perming process, minimizing damage to
11439-520: The patent which he had taken out based on Calvete's design, and won his case. Nessler was to retaliate some years later suing Eugene in the United Kingdom, over some curlers designed by Calvete which were similar to the Nessler ones. The first heaters as described above were tubular, and were inserted over the hair which had been previously wound on to a form or curler. To facilitate this, after
11562-412: The perfect applicability of the term Second World. The definitions of the First World, Second World, and Third World changed slightly, yet generally describe the same concepts. During the Cold War era, the relationships between the First World, Second World and the Third World were very rigid. The First World and Second World were at constant odds with one another via the tensions between their two cores,
11685-480: The prospective country is able to assume the obligations of membership, that is that all the economic and political conditions required are attained. Furthermore, it defined the membership criteria, which are regarded as the Copenhagen criteria, as follows: It is clear that all these criteria are characteristics of developed countries. Therefore, there is a direct link between globalization, developed nations, and
11808-428: The racial connotations of slavery at the time so that the distinctive hairstyle affiliates the side-show white Circassian with African-American identity, and thus: ... resonates oddly yet resoundingly with the rest of her identifying significations: her racial purity, her sexual enslavement, her position as colonial subject; her beauty. The Circassian blended elements of white Victorian True Womanhood with traits of
11931-557: The rest of the world was deemed part of the third world , while the fourth world was considered to be those nations whose people were living on less than US$ 100 annually. If we use the term to mean high-income industrialized economies, then the World Bank classifies countries according to their GNI or gross national income per capita. The World Bank separates countries into four categories: high-income, upper-middle-income, lower-middle-income, and low-income economies. The First World
12054-582: The risk of damaging the hair shaft, sometimes resulting in hair loss . The effect of the Civil Rights Movement brought a renewed sense of identity to the African–American community, which also resulted in a redefinition of personal style that included an appreciation of black beauty and aesthetics, as embodied by the " Black is beautiful " movement. This cultural movement marked a return to more natural, untreated hairstyles. The afro became
12177-399: The scalp by a complex system of countering weights which were suspended from an overhead chandelier and mounted on a stand. Nessler conducted his first experiments on his wife, Katharina Laible. The first two attempts resulted in completely burning her hair off and some scalp burns, but the method was improved and his electric permanent wave machine was used in London in 1909 on the long hair of
12300-472: The small business and domestic level. As shorter hair was improved in appearance by waving even more than long hair, it was only a matter of time before an improved form of waving appeared. An early alternative method for curling hair that was suitable for use on people was invented in 1905 by German hairdresser Karl Nessler . He used a mixture of cow urine and water. The first public demonstration took place on 8 October 1905, but Nessler had been working on
12423-467: The subject proved highly popular among hairdressing professionals, and he wrote a book on the subject. Certain basic factors he pointed out are still relevant today. A point winding is almost two dimensional, rather like the spring of a watch spiral . A root winding is three-dimensional much like a spiral staircase or, more properly, a helix . Thus point winding tends to produce more of a curl, but both produce waved hair when pulled slightly. Point produces
12546-625: The tension between the two worlds was evident in Berlin -- which was then split into East and West. To stop citizens in East Berlin from having too much exposure to the capitalist West, the Soviet Union erected the Berlin Wall within the city. The relationship between the First World and the Third World is characterized by the very definition of the Third World. Because countries of the Third World were noncommittal and non-aligned with both
12669-402: The term Third World in reference to the three estates in pre-revolutionary France. The first two estates being the nobility and clergy and everybody else comprising the third estate. He compared the capitalist world (i.e., First World) to the nobility and the communist world (i.e., Second World) to the clergy. Just as the third estate comprised everybody else, Sauvy called the Third World all
12792-463: The term fourth world did not come about until later). There are some references towards culture in the definition. They were defined in terms of Gross National Product (GNP), measured in U.S. dollars, along with other socio-political factors. The first world included the large industrialized, democratic (free elections, etc.) nations. The second world included modern, wealthy, industrialized nations, but they were all under communist control. Most of
12915-433: The theorists were from the United States, and they were not interested in Third World countries achieving development by any model. They wanted those countries to develop through liberal processes of politics, economics, and socialization; that is to say, they wanted them to follow the liberal capitalist example of a so-called "First World state". Therefore, the modernization and development tradition consciously originated as
13038-404: The thicker hair nearer to the root became hotter than the thinner hair at the end. Suter patented the design in his own name and for the next 12 years ordered all his hairdressing equipment from Calvete but marketed under his commercial name, Eugene Ltd, which became synonymous with permanent waving throughout the world. At the same time, Calvete developed his own products which he manufactured under
13161-576: The time. Nessler had moved to London in 1901, and during World War I , the British jailed Nessler because he was German and forced him to surrender his assets. He escaped to New York City in 1915, buying passage on a steamship under an assumed name. In New York, he found that hundreds of copies of his machine were in use, but most did not work well and were unreliable. Nessler opened a shop on East 49th Street, and soon had salons in Chicago, Detroit, Palm Beach, Florida and Philadelphia. Nessler also developed
13284-435: The way to expansive afro wigs . Some African Americans who have been known for wearing afros or afro wigs during these two decades include NBA basketball players Ben Wallace , Kobe Bryant , and Michael Beasley , as well as musicians Lauryn Hill , Erykah Badu , Macy Gray , Ludacris , Questlove , Cindy Blackman , Wiz Khalifa , and Lenny Kravitz . Beyoncé also donned a large afro wig for her role as Foxxy Cleopatra in
13407-466: The windings upright, facilitating the addition of the heaters. A further advance was the use of so-called sachets: small absorbent pads containing certain chemicals, attached to foil or other waterproof material, such as vegetable parchment. The sachets were placed in water and then wound rapidly round the curlers. These were popular with hairdressers as a labour-saving device, and with manufacturers, as they were only used once and some 20 would be used for
13530-417: The work involved; this meant savings at the lower end of the market and yet more women getting their hair permed. This was also stimulated by pictures of the rich and famous, particularly film stars, who all had their hair permed. This resulted in many copies of the original equipment being made by reputable firms in some cases with innovations of their own: The manner in which reagents worked when applied to
13653-551: The world is not the high rate of population increase in certain Third World countries per se, but rather the "increase in total human impact". The per-capita footprint—the resources consumed and the waste created by each person—varies globally. The highest per-person impact occurs in the First World and the lowest in the Third World: each inhabitant of the United States, Western Europe and Japan consumes 32 times as many resources and puts out 32 times as much waste as each person in
13776-471: The world starts to globalize, it is accompanied by criticism of the current forms of globalization, which are feared to be overly corporate-led. As corporations become larger and multinational, their influence and interests go further accordingly. Being able to influence and own most media companies, it is hard to be able to publicly debate the notions and ideals that corporations pursue. Some choices that corporations take to make profits can affect people all over
13899-485: The world. During the Cold War, the modernization theory and development theory developed in Europe as a result of their economic, political, social, and cultural response to the management of former colonial territories. European scholars and practitioners of international politics hoped to theorize ideas and then create policies based on those ideas that would cause newly independent colonies to change into politically developed sovereign nation-states. However, most of
14022-489: The world. Sometimes fatally. The third industrial revolution is spreading from the developed world to some, but not all, parts of the developing world. To participate in this new global economy, developing countries must be seen as attractive offshore production bases for multinational corporations. To be such bases, developing countries must provide relatively well-educated workforces, good infrastructure (electricity, telecommunications, transportation), political stability, and
14145-408: Was a Spanish immigrant who set up a workshop for the repair and manufacture of electrical equipment in the same area of London in 1917. This equipment was just coming into use for the hairdressing and medical professions. Suter consulted him on the heater and Calvete designed a practical model consisting of two windings inserted into an aluminium tube. This ensured that when inserted over a root winding,
14268-406: Was already wet from washing, for no other reason than that it prevented overheating, and that steam seemed to improve the process (hence the expression "steaming time"). It was not long before experiments were carried out on the use of additives, and it was soon apparent that alkaline additives improved the results. Thus the profession started using what was called a "reagent", perhaps concocted by
14391-526: Was challenged in a Federal lawsuit by the National Hairdressers' and Cosmetologists' Association. Calvete designed a new type of heater for this called a croquignole heater which fitted over the winding, rather like a bulldog clip. The trend was to replace some of the tubular heaters on the sides of the head with croquignole ones, to allow greater scope of styling. Apart from portable models which became available later, some system of support
14514-408: Was necessary for the curlers. At first these were fixed to the ceiling, but these were soon replaced by a machine that was universally adopted. A vertical metal pipe held a circular unit, called a "chandelier" from which the heaters were suspended. The bottom of the pipe was mounted on a base with wheels which enabled the device to be moved easily between clients or to one side of the salon. By providing
14637-542: Was seen as a symbol of neocolonialism and as part of a " cultural invasion " from the United States . In the 1950s and 1960s, South African women were also known to wear their hair in an afro-type style. The afro did not rise to the same level of popularity among the Afro-Caribbean community as it did in the United States, in part because of the popularity of dreadlocks , which played an important role in
14760-466: Was sent to hairdressers across the country. It covered advice on using Eugène products, styling techniques and hairdressing trends. Readers were referred to as ‘Eugène wavers’. The National Art Library at the V&;A Museum holds volumes of the magazine covering the period 1928 to 1947. During the war, the company made millions of screws and rivets for airplanes and tanks in its factory. The company’s name
14883-401: Was shortened so that it did not pass the lower end of the neck. This was not only a political gesture but a practical one, as women began to take over men's work due to the great shortage of labour during the First World War. At the same time, electricity, which had been introduced mainly for lighting and industrial use, began to be used for heating and the application of the electric motor at
15006-470: Was so well known that a 1945 page advertisement in Good Housekeeping magazine consisted of a blank page with just the handwritten words: ‘What would you like for Christmas?' 'Oh, a Eugène wave, please!’ From the onset, Eugene had realised the importance of the United States market and made great inroads, challenging Nessler who had started up there. The former also sued the latter for infringing
15129-407: Was the center of fashion and style. He became aware of the possibilities of electrical permanent waving particularly when shorter hair allowed the design of smaller equipment. The system had two parts; one was the electric heater and the other was the system of winding and holding the hair on a form which was inserted into a heater. Suter tried to design a heater, but was unsuccessful. Isidoro Calvete
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