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68-549: The bowler hat , also known as a Coke hat , billycock , bob hat , bombín (Spanish) or derby (United States), is a hard felt hat with a rounded crown, originally created by the London hat-makers Thomas and William Bowler in 1849. It has traditionally been worn with semi-formal and informal attire . The bowler, a protective and durable hat style, was popular with the British , Irish , and American working classes during

136-549: A general and provincial governor during the Gallic Wars . It fell out of use during the early Empire . In English common law , an outlaw was a party who had defied the laws of the realm by such acts as ignoring a summons to court or fleeing instead of appearing to plead when charged with a crime . The earliest reference to outlawry in English legal texts appears in the 8th century. The term outlawry refers to

204-522: A bowler hat which had once belonged to Stan Laurel . The bowler is part of the Droog outfit that main character Alex wears in the film version of A Clockwork Orange to the extent that contemporary fancy dress costumes for this character refer to the bowler hat. There was a chain of restaurants in Los Angeles , California known as Brown Derby . The first and most famous of these was shaped like

272-414: A broad range of possibilities Outlaw An outlaw , in its original and legal meaning, is a person declared as outside the protection of the law . In pre-modern societies, all legal protection was withdrawn from the criminal, so anyone was legally empowered to persecute or kill them. Outlawry was thus one of the harshest penalties in the legal system. In early Germanic law , the death penalty

340-518: A broad range of sheep and other animal fibers have exploited knowledge of these different breeds to produce special effects in their felt. Fleece locks are classified by the Bradford or Micron count, both which designate the fineness to coarseness of the material. Fine wools range from 64 to 80 (Bradford); medium 40–60 (Bradford); and coarse 36–60 (Bradford). Merino, the finest and most delicate sheep fleece, will be employed for clothing that goes next to

408-607: A derby. A chain of Brown Derby restaurants in Ohio is still in business today. Many paintings by the Belgian surrealist artist René Magritte feature bowler hats. The Son of Man consists of a man in a bowler hat standing in front of a wall. The man's face is largely obscured by a hovering green apple . Golconda depicts "raining men" all wearing bowler hats. Choreographer Bob Fosse frequently incorporated bowler hats into his dance routines. This use of hats as props, as seen in

476-442: A felt board, and in the process of telling the story, the storyteller also acts it out on the board with the animals or people. Puppets can also be made with felt. The best known example of felt puppets are Jim Henson 's Muppets . Felt pressed dolls, such as Lenci dolls , were very popular in the nineteenth century and just after World War I . As part of the overall renewal of interest in textile and fiber arts , beginning in

544-408: A mosaic. The felting process is then resumed and the edges of the fabric attach to each other as the felting process is completed. Shyrdak carpets (Turkmenistan) use a form of this method wherein two pieces of contrasting color are cut out with the same pattern, the cut-outs are then switched, fitting one into the other, which makes a sharply defined and colorful patterned piece. In order to strengthen

612-465: A protective measure to avoid damage from rubbing to the edge of the painting. This is commonly found as a preventive measure on paintings which have already been restored or professionally framed. It is widely used to protect paintings executed on various surfaces including canvas, wood panel and copper plate. A felt-covered board can be used in storytelling to small children. Small felt cutouts or figures of animals, people, or other objects will adhere to

680-476: A touch of warmth and texture to a space. During the 18th and 19th centuries gentlemen's headwear made from beaver felt were popular. In the early part of the 20th century, cloth felt hats, such as fedoras , trilbies and homburgs , were worn by many men in the western world. Felt is often used in footwear as boot liners, with the Russian valenki being an example. Many musical instruments use felt. It

748-411: A wolf or other wild animal. Women were declared "waived" rather than outlawed, but it was effectively the same punishment. Among other forms of exile , Roman law included the penalty of aquae et ignis interdictio ("interdiction of water and fire"). Such people penalized were required to leave Roman territory and forfeit their property. If they returned, they were effectively outlaws; providing them

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816-415: Is Ikuyo Fujita (藤田育代 Fujita Ikuyo), a Japanese artist who works primarily in needle felt painting and mogol (pipe cleaner) art. Recently, needle-felting machines have become popular for art or craft felters . Similar to a sewing machine, these tools have several needles that punch fibers together. These machines can be used to create felted products more efficiently. The embellishment machine allows

884-433: Is an alternative theory that the fibers wind around each other during felting. Plant fibers and synthetic fibers will not wet felt. In order to make multi-colored designs, felters conduct a two-step process in which they create pre-felts of specialized colors—these semi-completed sheets of colored felt can then be cut with a sharp implement (knife or scissors) and the distinctive colors placed next to each other as in making

952-455: Is an outlaw in the second sense but not the first ( Sándor Rózsa was tried and sentenced merely to a term of imprisonment when captured). In the common law of England , a "writ of outlawry" made the pronouncement Caput lupinum ("[Let his be] a wolf's head"), equating that person with a wolf in the eyes of the law. Not only was the subject deprived of all legal rights, being outside the "law", but others could kill him on sight as if he were

1020-647: Is called The Man in the Bowler Hat . In The Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends cartoon series, the legendary "Kerwood Derby" was worn by such world conquerors as Alexander the Great and Elvis Presley (a play on the name of then popular tv personality Durward Kirby ). In the Series One episode "The Think Tank" of the program Are You Being Served? , the Grace Brothers store policy

1088-427: Is common to conduct the rolling/friction process with the aid of a horse, donkey, or camel, which will pull the rolled felt until the process is complete. Alternately, a group of people in a line might roll the felt along, kicking it regularly with their feet. Further fulling can include throwing or slamming and working the edges with careful rolling. In Turkey, some baths had areas dedicated to feltmaking, making use of

1156-489: Is conspicuously absent, and outlawing is the most extreme punishment, presumably amounting to a death sentence in practice. The concept is known from Roman law , as the status of homo sacer , and persisted throughout the Middle Ages . A secondary meaning of outlaw is a person systematically avoiding capture by evasion and violence. These meanings are related and overlapping but not necessarily identical. A fugitive who

1224-412: Is declared outside protection of law in one jurisdiction but who receives asylum and lives openly and obedient to local laws in another jurisdiction is an outlaw in the first meaning but not the second (one example being William John Bankes ). A fugitive who remains formally entitled to a form of trial if captured alive but avoids capture because of the high risk of conviction and severe punishment if tried

1292-420: Is directed by a leader who oversees the process as a ritual that includes prayers—words and actions to bring good luck to the process. Successfully completing the creation of felt (certainly large felt pieces) is reason for celebration, feasting, and the sharing of traditional stories. In Turkey , craft guilds called "ahi" came into being, and these groups were responsible for registering members and protecting

1360-436: Is often used as a damper . On drum cymbal stands, it protects the cymbal from cracking and ensures a clean sound. It is used to wrap bass drum strikers and timpani mallets . Felt is used extensively in pianos; for example, piano hammers are made of wool felt around a wooden core. The density and springiness of the felt is a major part of what creates a piano's tone. As the felt becomes grooved and "packed" with use and age,

1428-463: Is revealed to include a hierarchical order for hats male personnel wear: bowlers for departmental heads and above, homburgs for senior floor staff and trilbys or caps for junior floor staff. The character of Captain Peacock is admonished for wearing a bowler when he is only entitled to a homburg, until Mr Grace, the store owner, insists that Peacock wear a bowler. In the mid-1960s Batman TV series,

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1496-534: The barong tagalog during the second half of the 19th century. The bowler hat was worn by the national hero of the Philippines, José Rizal , during his execution on 30 December 1896, and it is still seen as symbolic of the history of the Philippine Revolution. The bowler hat was famously used by actors such as Charlie Chaplin , Laurel and Hardy , Shemp Howard and Curly Howard ; and by

1564-543: The Penguin 's band of "fine feathered finks" usually wear derby hats. The only exception was in Batman: The Movie , where his men donned pirate gear to crew his penguin-themed submarine. There is a giant bowler hat along I-30 in south Dallas , Texas. Felt Felt from wool is one of the oldest known textiles. Many cultures have legends about the origins of felt-making. Sumerian legend claims that

1632-566: The State Opening of Parliament ), romanticised outlaws became stock characters in several fictional settings. This was particularly so in the United States, where outlaws were popular subjects of 19th-century newspaper coverage and stories and 20th-century fiction and Western movies . Thus, "outlaw" is still commonly used to mean those violating the law or, by extension, those living that lifestyle, whether actual criminals evading

1700-497: The alpaca or the Merino sheep , can be put through the wet felting process. One may also use mohair (goat) , angora (rabbit) , or hair from rodents such as beavers and muskrats . These types of fiber are covered in tiny scales, similar to the scales found on a strand of human hair. Heat, motion, and moisture of the fleece causes the scales to open, while agitating them causes them to latch onto each other, creating felt. There

1768-533: The 1970s and continuing through today, felt has experienced a strong revival in interest, including its historical roots. Polly Stirling, a fiber artist from New South Wales, Australia, is commonly associated with the development of nuno felting , a key technique for contemporary art felting. German artist Joseph Beuys prominently integrates felt within his works. English artist Jenny Cowern shifted from traditional drawing and painting media into using felt as her primary media. Modern day felters with access to

1836-457: The 1970s. In modern times bowlers are not common, although the so-called City gent wearing a bowler and carrying a rolled umbrella remains a representation of Englishmen. For this reason, two bowler-hatted men were used in the logo of the British building society (subsequently bank) Bradford & Bingley . In Scotland and Northern Ireland the bowler hat is worn traditionally by members of

1904-692: The 1972 movie Cabaret , would become one of his trademarks. In the 2007 Disney animated film Meet the Robinsons , the main antagonist is known as the Bowler Hat Guy. Cornelius Fudge in the Harry Potter series is frequently mentioned as wearing a bowler hat. Roman Torchwick , a recurring villain in the web animated series RWBY wears a bowler hat. It is later worn by his henchwoman Neopolitan after Roman's death. The third album by British rock group Stackridge , released in 1974,

1972-531: The Cartagena fleet to be " piratic ", which allowed any nation to prey on it. Taking the opposite road, some outlaws became political leaders, such as Ethiopia 's Kassa Hailu who became Emperor Tewodros II of Ethiopia . Though the judgment of outlawry is now obsolete (even though it inspired the pro forma Outlawries Bill which is still to this day introduced in the British House of Commons during

2040-703: The Queen's subjects, "whether a constable or not", and without "being accountable for using of any deadly weapon in aid of such apprehension." Similar provisions were passed in Victoria and Queensland . Although the provisions of the New South Wales Felons Apprehension Act were not exercised after the end of the bushranging era, they remained on the statute book until 1976. There have been several instances in military and political conflicts throughout history whereby one side declares

2108-476: The adoption of international extradition pacts. It was obsolete when the offence was abolished in 1938. Outlawry was, however, a living practice as of 1855: in 1841, William John Bankes , who had previously been an MP for several different constituencies between 1810 and 1835, was outlawed by due process of law for absenting himself from trial for homosexuality and died in 1855 in Venice as an outlaw. There

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2176-1039: The ancient Norse and Icelandic legal code . In early modern times, the term Vogelfrei and its cognates came to be used in Germany, the Low Countries , and Scandinavia , referring to a person stripped of his civil rights being "free" for the taking like a bird. In Germany and Slavic countries during the 15th to 19th centuries, groups of outlaws were composed of former prisoners, soldiers, etc. Hence, they became an important social phenomenon. They lived off of robbery, and local inhabitants from lower classes often supported their activity. The best known are Juraj Jánošík and Jakub Surovec in Slovakia, Oleksa Dovbush in Ukraine, Rózsa Sándor in Hungary, Schinderhannes and Hans Kohlhase in Germany. The concept of outlawry

2244-406: The barrel of a muzzleloader . Felt had many uses in ancient times and continues to be widely used today. Felt is frequently used in industry as a sound or vibration damper, as a non-woven fabric for air filtration, and in machinery for cushioning and padding moving parts. Felt can be used in home furnishings like table runners, placemats, coasters, and even as backing for area rugs. It can add

2312-399: The base of the project. At any point in time a variety of fibers and fiber colors may be added, using needles to incorporate them into the project. Needle felting can be used to create both 2 dimensional and 3 dimensional artwork, including soft sculpture, dolls, figurines, jewelry, and 2 dimensional wool paintings. Needle felting is popular with artists and craftspeople worldwide. One example

2380-678: The beautiful abstract patterns they used that were derived from plant, animal, and other symbolic designs. From Siberia and Mongolia feltmaking spread across the areas held by the Turkic-Mongolian tribes. Sheep and camel herds were central to the wealth and lifestyle of these tribes, both of which animals were critical to producing the fibers needed for felting. For nomads traveling frequently and living on fairly treeless plains felt provided housing (yurts, tents etc.), insulation, floor coverings, and inside walling, as well as many household necessities from bedding and coverings to clothing. In

2448-463: The body. Claudy Jongstra raises traditional and rare breeds of sheep with much hardier coats (Drenthe, Heath, Gotland, Schoonbeek, and Wensleydale) on her property in Friesland and these are used in her interior design projects. Exploitation of these characteristics of the fleece in tandem with the use of other techniques, such as stitching and incorporation of other fibers, provides felters with

2516-562: The bowler, known as bombín in Spanish , has been worn by Quechua and Aymara women since the 1920s, when it was introduced to Bolivia by British railway workers. For many years, a factory in Italy manufactured such hats for the Bolivian market, but they are now made locally. In Norway, Hans Majestet Kongens Garde (the royal guards) wear plumed bowler hats as part of their uniform. It

2584-584: The carrot and the vapours it produced resulted in widespread cases of mercury poisoning among hatters . This may be the origin of the phrase " mad as a hatter " which was used to humorous effect by Lewis Carroll in the chapter "A Mad Tea Party" of the novel Alice in Wonderland . Felt is used in a wide range of industries and manufacturing processes, from the automotive industry and casinos to musical instruments and home construction , as well as in gun wadding , either inside cartridges or pushed down

2652-422: The case of nomadic peoples, an area where feltmaking was particularly visible was in trappings for their animals and for travel. Felt was often featured in the blankets that went under saddles. Dyes provided rich coloring, and colored slices of pre-felts (semi-felted sheets that could be cut in decorative ways) along with dyed yarns and threads were combined to create beautiful designs on the wool backgrounds. Felt

2720-522: The classic yurt , or ger, while others are designed for the tourist market, such as decorated slippers. In the Western world, felt is widely used as a medium for expression in both textile art and contemporary art and design, where it has significance as an ecologically responsible textile and building material. In addition to Central Asian traditions of felting, Scandinavian countries have also supported feltmaking, particularly for clothing. In

2788-544: The customer is less certain, with some suggesting it was Thomas Coke, 1st Earl of Leicester , who had an estate at Holkham Hall , in Norfolk . However, research performed by a younger relation of the 1st Earl casts doubt on this story, and it is claimed by James Lock & Co. that the bowler was invented for Edward Coke , the younger brother of Thomas Coke, 2nd Earl of Leicester . When Edward Coke arrived in London on 17 December 1849 to collect his hat he reputedly placed it on

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2856-473: The fictional character John Steed of The Avengers , played by Patrick Macnee . In the 1964 film Mary Poppins , set in Edwardian London , 1910, the London banker George Banks (played by David Tomlinson ) wears a bowler. The British bank Bradford & Bingley owns more than 100 separate trademarks featuring the bowler hat, its long-running logo . In 1995 the bank purchased, for £2000,

2924-514: The first century CE in Mongolia. Siberian tombs (7th to 2nd century BCE) show the broad uses of felt in that culture, including clothing, jewelry, wall hangings, and elaborate horse blankets. Employing careful color use, stitching, and other techniques, these feltmakers were able to use felt as an illustrative and decorative medium on which they could depict abstract designs and realistic scenes with great skill. Over time these makers became known for

2992-522: The floor and stamped hard on it twice to test its strength; the hat withstood this test and Coke paid 12 shillings for it. The bowler has had varying degrees of significance in British culture . They were popular among the working classes in the 19th century. From the early 20th century, bowler hats were more commonly associated with financial workers and businessmen working in the financial districts, also known as "City gents". The traditional wearing of bowler hats with City business attire declined during

3060-445: The formal procedure of declaring someone an outlaw, i.e., putting him outside legal protection. In the common law of England , a judgment of (criminal) outlawry was one of the harshest penalties in the legal system since the outlaw could not use the legal system for protection, e.g., from mob justice . To be declared an outlaw was to suffer a form of civil or social death. The outlaw was debarred from all civilized society. No one

3128-547: The hat because it would not blow off easily in strong wind while riding a horse, or when sticking one's head out the window of a speeding train. It was worn by both lawmen and outlaws , including Bat Masterson , Butch Cassidy , Black Bart , and Billy the Kid . In the United States the hat came to be known commonly as the derby , and American outlaw Marion Hedgepeth was commonly referred to as "the Derby Kid". In South America,

3196-627: The hat. Bowlers worn by female traffic police officers have white crowns or covers. These hats are not worn in the Police Service of Northern Ireland. They are also part of the uniforms of female police community support officers (PCSOs). The bowler, not the cowboy hat or sombrero , was the most popular hat in the American West, prompting Lucius Beebe to call it "the hat that won the West". Both cowboys and railroad workers preferred

3264-446: The joints of a mosaic style felt, feltmakers often add a backing layer of fleece that is felted along with the other components. Feltmakers can differ in their orientation to this added layer—where some will lay it on top of the design before felting and others will place the design on top of the strengthening layer. The process of felting was adapted to the lifestyles of the different cultures in which it flourished. In Central Asia, it

3332-484: The knowledge of felting. In Istanbul at one time, there were 1,000 felters working in 400 workshops registered in this ahi. Needle felting is a method of creating felt that uses specially designed needles instead of water. Felting needles have angled notches along the shaft that catch fibers and tangle them together to produce felt. These notches are sometimes erroneously called "barbs", but barbs are protrusions (like barbed wire) and would be too difficult to thrust into

3400-768: The main Loyalist fraternities such as the Orange Order , the Independent Loyal Orange Institution , the Royal Black Preceptory and the Apprentice Boys of Derry for their parades and annual celebrations. Female officers of many British police forces also wear bowler hats as part of their uniforms . This includes a cap badge and generally has a black-and-white chequered band (called Sillitoe tartan ) around

3468-754: The other as being "illegal", notorious cases being the use of proscription in the civil wars of the Roman Republic . In later times there was the notable case of Napoleon Bonaparte whom the Congress of Vienna , on 13 March 1815, declared had "deprived himself of the protection of the law" . In modern times, the government of the First Spanish Republic , unable to reduce the Cantonal rebellion centered in Cartagena, Spain , declared

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3536-667: The possibility of being declared an outlaw for derelictions of civil duty continued to exist in English law until the passing of the Civil Procedure Acts Repeal Act 1879 ( 42 & 43 Vict. c. 59) in 1879 and in Scots law until the late 1940s. Since then, failure to find the defendant and serve process is usually interpreted in favour of the plaintiff, and harsh penalties for mere nonappearance (merely presumed flight to escape justice) no longer apply. Outlawry also existed in other ancient legal codes, such as

3604-667: The second half of the 19th century, and later with the middle and upper classes in the United Kingdom , Ireland, and the east coast of the United States. The bowler hat was designed in 1849 by the London hat-makers Thomas and William Bowler to fulfill an order placed by the company of hatters James Lock & Co. of St James's , which had been commissioned by a customer to design a close-fitting, low-crowned hat to protect gamekeepers from low-hanging branches while on horseback. The keepers had previously worn top hats , which were knocked off easily and damaged. The identity of

3672-626: The secret of feltmaking was discovered by Urnamman of Lagash . The story of Saint Clement and Saint Christopher relates that the men packed their sandals with wool to prevent blisters while fleeing from persecution. At the end of their journey the movement and sweat had turned the wool into felt socks. Most likely felt's origins can be found in central Asia, where there is evidence of feltmaking in Siberia (Altai mountains) in Northern Mongolia and more recently evidence dating back to

3740-446: The sides turned orange, the color of carrots. Pelts were stretched over a bar in a cutting machine, and the skin was sliced off in thin shreds, with the fleece coming away entirely. The fur was blown onto a cone-shaped colander and then treated with hot water to consolidate it. The cone then peeled off and passed through wet rollers to cause the fur to felt. These 'hoods' were then dyed and blocked to make hats. The toxic solutions from

3808-453: The steam and hot water that were already present for bathing. As felting grew in importance to a society, so, too, did the knowledge about techniques and approaches. Amateur or community felting obviously continued in many communities at the same time that felting specialists and felting centers began to develop. However, the importance of felting to community life can be seen in the fact that, in many Central Asian communities, felt production

3876-411: The tone suffers. Felt is placed under the piano keys on accordions to control touch and key noise; it is also used on the pallets to silence notes not sounded by preventing air flow. Felt is used with other instruments, particularly stringed instruments, as a damper to reduce volume or eliminate unwanted sounds. Felt is used for framing paintings. It is laid between the slip mount and picture as

3944-578: The use of fire or water was illegal, and they could be killed at will without legal penalty. The interdiction of water and fire was traditionally imposed by the tribune of the plebs and is attested to have been in use during the First Punic War of the third century BC by Cato the Elder . It was later also applied by many other officials, such as the Senate , magistrates , and Julius Caesar as

4012-405: The user to create unique combinations of fibers and designs. Invented in the mid 17th century and used until the mid-20th centuries, a process called "carroting" was used in the manufacture of good quality felt for making men's hats. Beaver, rabbit or hare skins were treated with a dilute solution of the mercury compound mercuric nitrate . The skins were dried in an oven where the thin fur at

4080-498: The wet felting process, hot water is applied to layers of animal hairs, while repeated agitation and compression causes the fibers to hook together or weave together into a single piece of fabric. Wrapping the properly arranged fiber in a sturdy, textured material, such as a bamboo mat or burlap , will speed up the felting process. The felted material may be finished by fulling . Only certain types of fiber can be wet felted successfully. Most types of fleece , such as those taken from

4148-506: The wool and nearly impossible to pull out. Felting needles are thin and sharp, with shafts of a variety of different gauges and shapes. Needle felting is used in industrial felt making as well as for individual art and craft applications. Felting needles are sometimes fitted in holders that allow the use of 2 or more needles at one time to sculpt wool objects and shapes. Individual needles are often used for detail while multiple needles that are paired together are used for larger areas or to form

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4216-400: Was allowed to give him food, shelter, or any other sort of support—to do so was to commit the crime of aiding and abetting , and to be in danger of the ban oneself. A more recent concept of " wanted dead or alive " is similar but implies that a trial is desired (namely if the wanted person is returned alive), whereas outlawry precludes a trial. An outlaw might be killed with impunity, and it

4284-502: Was also a doctrine of civil outlawry. Civil outlawry did not carry the sentence of capital punishment. It was, however, imposed on defendants who fled or evaded justice when sued for civil actions like debts or torts. The punishments for civil outlawry were harsh, including confiscation of chattels (movable property) left behind by the outlaw. In the civil context, outlawry became obsolete in civil procedure by reforms that no longer required summoned defendants to appear and plead. Still,

4352-462: Was an outlaw. If a man was accused of treason or felony but failed to appear in court to defend himself, he was deemed convicted. If he was accused of a misdemeanour , then he was guilty of a serious contempt of court which was itself a capital crime. In the context of criminal law , outlawry faded out, not so much by legal changes as by the greater population density of the country, which made it harder for wanted fugitives to evade capture, and by

4420-643: Was copied from the hats of the Italian Bersaglieri troops; a regiment that so impressed the Swedish princess Louise that she insisted the Norwegian guards be similarly hatted in 1860. In the Philippines , bowler hats were known by its Spanish name sombrero hongo (literally "mushroom hat"). Along with the native buntal hats , they were a common part of the traditional men's ensemble of

4488-475: Was even used to create totems and amulets with protective functions. In traditional societies the patterns embedded in the felt were also imbued with significant religious and symbolic meaning. Feltmaking is still practised by nomadic peoples (such as Mongols and Turkic people ) in Central Asia , where rugs , tents and clothing are regularly made. Some of these are traditional items, such as

4556-402: Was not only lawful but meritorious to kill a thief fleeing from justice—to do so was not murder . A man who slew a thief was expected to declare the fact without delay; otherwise, the dead man's kindred might clear his name by their oath and require the slayer to pay weregild as for a true man. By the rules of common law, a criminal outlaw did not need to be guilty of the crime for which he

4624-482: Was reintroduced to British law by several Australian colonial governments in the late 19th century to deal with the menace of bushranging . The Felons Apprehension Act (1865 No 2a) of New South Wales provided that a judge could, upon proof of sufficiently notorious conduct, issue a special bench warrant requiring a person to submit themselves to police custody before a given date, or be declared an outlaw. An outlawed person could be apprehended "alive or dead" by any of

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