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Butaritari is an atoll in the Pacific Ocean island nation of Kiribati . The atoll is roughly four-sided. The south and southeast portion of the atoll comprises a nearly continuous islet. The atoll reef is continuous but almost without islets along the north side. Bikati and Bikatieta islets occupy a corner of the reef at the extreme northwest tip of the atoll. Small islets are found on reef sections between channels on the west side. The lagoon of Butaritari is deep and can accommodate large ships, though the entrance passages are relatively narrow. It is the most fertile of the Gilbert Islands , with relatively good soils (for an atoll) and high rainfall. Butaritari atoll has a land area of 13.49 km (5.21 sq mi) and a population of 3,224 as of 2015. During World War II , Butaritari was known by United States Armed Forces as Makin Atoll , and was the site of the Battle of Makin . Locally, Makin is the name of a separate but closest atoll, 3 kilometres (1.6 nmi; 1.9 mi) to the northeast of Butaritari, but close enough to be seen. These two atolls share a dialect of the Gilbertese language .

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56-692: Butaritari is the second most northerly of the Gilbert Islands ; 3 kilometres (1.6 nmi; 1.9 mi) to the northeast is Makin . Butaritari was called Makin Atoll by the U.S. military , and present-day Makin was then known as Makin Meang (Northern Makin) or Little Makin to distinguish it. Now that Butaritari has become the preferred name for the larger atoll, speakers tend to drop the qualifier for Makin. Butaritari has also previously been known as Pitt Island, Taritari Island, or Touching Island. The atoll

112-455: A battle station. The number of trained combat troops on Makin was no more than 300 soldiers. The garrison included three tanks and three 37 mm (1.5 inch) anti-tank guns. Butaritari's land defenses were centered around the lagoon shore, near the seaplane base in the central part of the island. A series of strongpoints was established along Butaritari's ocean side as the Japanese expected

168-433: A chief or Uea who lived on Butaritari Island. This chief had all the powers and authority to make and impose decisions for Butaritari and Makin, a system very different from the southern Gilbert Islands where power was wielded collectively by the unimwane or old men. The people of Kuma village had the power to call dolphins or whales, and used this ability on special occasions to provide meat for important feasts such as

224-555: A chief who lived on Butaritari (called Makin or Great Makin). This chief had all the powers and authority to make and impose decisions on the Islanders, a system very different from the Southern Gilbert Islands where power was wielded collectively by the unimwane or old men of the island. The northern Gilberts have a greater mean rainfall in comparison to the southern and central Gilberts allowing cultivation of

280-524: A continuous chain of seamounts . In official north–south order (grouped by former administrative district), the islands and atolls are: Source for land areas: Kiribati 2005 Census Report The Northern Gilberts ( meang or mweang ) geographically and traditionally encompass Butaritari , Makin , Marakei , Abaiang (literally northland ) and Tarawa . They have unique tonal accents with differences particularly noted amongst Butaritari and Makin inhabitants. Traditionally, Butaritari and Makin were ruled by

336-471: A huge roof formed from coconut wood, held together with coconut string and thatched with pandanus leaves. The whole community is involved in its construction, and every aspect of the maneaba has a symbolic as well as a practical function. A maneaba serves a similar cultural role to a Polynesian marae . In the neighbouring islands of Tuvalu (formerly called the Ellice Islands), the meeting house

392-736: A tree in Samoa migrated northward carrying branches from the tree, Te Kaintikuaba , which translates as the tree of life. It was these spirits, together with Nareau the Wise who created the islands of Tungaru (the Gilbert Islands). The Spanish expedition led by Pedro Fernandes de Queirós sighted the Buen Viaje (good trip in Spanish) Islands (Butaritari and Makin ) on 8 July 1606. Traditionally, Butaritari and Makin were ruled by

448-455: A wider crop range. Butaritari and Makin supply most of the bananas sold in Kiribati. The cultivation of taro or babai ( Cyrtosperma merkusii ) has been historically easier in the northern Gilberts due to a higher water table and regular rainfall. The Central Gilberts or nuka have traditionally included Maiana , Abemama , Kuria and Aranuka . However, the latter three are considered

504-441: Is a village on the larger Bikati (2 by 0.5 km). Seepage of saltwater into the pits in which babai ( Cyrtosperma merkusii or giant swamp taro ) is grown is the major concern of islanders. The erosion problems are identified as being linked to aggregate mining, land reclamation and the construction of causeways that is thought to change the currents along the shoreline. The causeways have also resulted to reduced flushing of

560-520: Is about 4 m, compared with about 2 m on Tarawa Atoll and 1 m in the far south of Kiribati. Rainfall on Butaritari is enhanced during an El Niño . Butaritari has rich marine resources, with a large lagoon and wide reef. Butaritari has the greatest potential for agriculture in Kiribati: bananas, breadfruit and papaya grow well, and successful cultivars of pumpkin, cabbage, cucumber, eggplant and other vegetables have been created with assistance from

616-403: Is roughly four-sided and nearly 30 km (19 mi) across in the east–west direction, and averages about 15 km (9 mi) north to south. The reef is more submerged and broken into several broad channels along the west side. Small islets are found on reef sections between these channels. The atoll reef is continuous but almost without islets along the north side. In the northeast corner,

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672-444: Is through South Tarawa , which is connected by a twice weekly Fiji Airways flight with Fiji . There are three guesthouses on Butaritari, providing a basic level of accommodation aimed mainly at government staff and visitors, though tourists are welcomed. Gilbert Islands The Gilbert Islands ( Gilbertese : Tungaru ; formerly Kingsmill or King's-Mill Islands ) are a chain of sixteen atolls and coral islands in

728-728: The 2nd Marine Raider Battalion raided Makin from two submarines. The raid was intended by the Americans to confuse the Japanese about US intentions in the Pacific, a feint to draw Japanese attention away from the planned invasion route through the Solomons . It is instead believed to have alerted the Japanese to the strategic importance of the Gilbert Islands and led to their reinforcement and fortification. Marines captured during this operation were subsequently summarily executed by

784-804: The Ellice Islands were separated, and the Gilberts became the Gilbert Islands colony, which issued stamps under that name. In 1979, the Gilberts opted for independence, becoming the independent state of Kiribati . The Ellice Islands became the independent state of Tuvalu in 1978. Asian Development Bank. (2009b). Kiribati's political economy and capacity development [Online]. Available: http://www.adb.org/documents/reports/KIR-Political-Economy-Capacity-Development/KIR-Economic-Development.pdf (accessed 6 February 2012). Bedford, R., Macdonald, B., & Munro, D. (1980). Population estimates for Kiribati and Tuvalu, 1850–1900: Review and speculation. Journal of

840-678: The Hamburg -based Handels-und Plantagen-Gesellschaft der Südsee-Inseln zu Hamburg (DHPG) with Pacific headquarters in Samoa , and On Chong ( Chinese traders with Australian connections via the goldfields). These traders helped Butaritari became the commercial and trading capital of the Gilbert Islands until Burns Philp , a powerful trading company, moved to Tarawa , following the seat of political power. Robert Louis Stevenson , Fanny Vandegrift Stevenson and Lloyd Osbourne visited Butaritari from 14 July 1889 to early August. At this time Nakaeia

896-657: The Marshall Islands , Makin would make an excellent seaplane base, extending Japanese air patrols closer to Howland Island , Baker Island , Tuvalu , Phoenix and Ellice Islands , all held by the Allies and protecting the eastern flank of the Japanese perimeter from an Allied attack. Butaritari atoll was the site of the Makin Raid in August 1942, when two companies of the 2nd Marine Raider Battalion landed from

952-518: The Pacific Ocean , about halfway between Papua New Guinea and Hawaii . They constitute the main part of the country of Kiribati (the name of which is a rendering of "Gilberts" in the phonology of the indigenous Gilbertese ). The atolls and islands of the Gilbert Islands lie in an approximate north-to-south line. The northernmost island in the group, Makin , it is approximately 420 nautical miles (780 km) from southernmost, Arorae , as

1008-479: The atolls . The presence of the Europeans, and the alcohol they traded to the islanders, resulted in periodic alcoholic binges that only ended with Nakaeia making tapu (forbidding) the sale of alcohol. During the 15 or so days that Stevenson spent on Butaritari the islanders were engaged in a drunken spree that threatened the safety of Stevenson and his family. Stevenson adopted the strategy of describing himself as

1064-484: The submarines USS Argonaut and USS Nautilus , as a feint to draw Japanese attention away from the planned invasion route through the Solomons . While they annihilated the local garrison, they failed in their initial objectives of taking prisoners and gathering intelligence. On the eve of invasion, the Japanese garrison consisted of 806 men. Most were of aviation or Japanese and Korean labor units who had little or no combat training and were not assigned weapons or

1120-617: The Buen Viaje Islands. The British explorer Vice-Admiral John Byron passed through the islands in 1765 during his circumnavigation of the globe as captain of HMS  Dolphin . In 1788 Captain Thomas Gilbert on Charlotte and Captain John Marshall on Scarborough crossed through Kuria , Aranuka , Tarawa , Abaiang , Butaritari, and Makin without attempting to land on the atolls. In 1820,

1176-687: The Gilbert Islands are Austronesian peoples , similar in many respects to the natives of the Marshalls or the Carolines . In Mahaffy's 1909 report to the British Government he described the missionaries or Protectorate staff then resident in the Gilbert Islands. At the outbreak of World War II, about 78% of the native population were said to be Christians. This group was divided mainly into two denominations: Congregationalists (43%) and Roman Catholics (35%), Catholics becoming quickly

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1232-658: The Gilberts, they devoted considerable time to mapping and charting reefs and anchorages. In 1886, an Anglo-German agreement partitioned the "unclaimed" central Pacific, leaving Nauru in the German sphere of influence, while Ocean Island and the future GEIC wound up in the British sphere of influence. A British protectorate was first proclaimed over the Gilberts by Captain Edward Davis of HMS  Royalist on 27 May 1892. British official Arthur Mahaffy visited

1288-536: The Gilberts. On 20 November 1943, the U.S. Army and U.S. 2nd Marine Division landed on Makin and Tarawa, initiating the battles of Makin and Tarawa , in which the Japanese were defeated. The Gilbert Islands were then used to support the invasion of the Marshall Islands in February 1944. The US built bases on Islands. The Gilbert and Ellice Islands became autonomous in 1971. From 1975 to 1978,

1344-455: The Islands in 1909. He noted that the "villages are kept in admirable order and the roads are scrupulously clean." A hospital was on each island, as well. The conduct of William Telfer Campbell , the second resident commissioner of the Gilberts, was criticised as to his legislative, judicial and administrative management (including allegations of forced labour exacted from islanders) and became

1400-707: The Japanese, in gross violation of the laws of war. The 19 Marines who died were left behind for the villagers to bury. In 1999, a Marine Honor guard was sent to recover the bodies and found them after a villager showed them where to dig. All were exhumed and were taken to the United States. Tarawa and Abemama were occupied in force by the Japanese in September 1942 and during the next year garrisons were built up on Betio (Tarawa Atoll), and Butaritari (Makin Atoll). Only nominal forces were placed on other islands in

1456-1118: The Pacific Islands. Journal of the Polynesian Society 1968; 77: 263–74. Davis, E.H.M., Captain RN. (1892). Proceedings of H.M.S. Royalist [Online]. Available: http://www.janeresture.com/davisdiaries/captaindavis.html and http://www.janeresture.com/nikunau/index.htm Archived 2006-10-16 at the Wayback Machine (accessed 6 February 2012). Di Piazza, A. (1999). Te Bakoa site. Two old earth ovens from Nikunau Island (Republic of Kiribati). Archaeology in Oceania, 34(1), 40–42. Di Piazza, A. (2001). Terre d'abondance ou terre de misère: Représentation de la sécheresse à Nikunau (République de Kiribati, Pacifique central) (Land of abundance or land of scarcity? Ideas about drought on Nikunau (Republic of Kiribati, Central Pacific)). L'Homme, 157, 35–58. Firth, Stewart (1973). "German Firms in

1512-668: The Polynesian Society, 89, 199–246. Bollard, A.E. (1981). "The Financial Adventures of J.C. Godeffroy and Son in the Pacific". Journal of Pacific History . 16 (1): 3–19. doi : 10.1080/00223348108572410 . Borovnik, M. (2006). Working overseas: Seafarers' remittances and their distribution in Kiribati. Asian Pacific Viewpoint, 47, 151–161. Burnett, G. (2005). Language games and schooling: Discourses of colonialism in Kiribati education. Asia Pacific Journal of Education, 25(1), 93–106. Cochrane, G. (1970). The Administration of Wagina Resettlement Scheme. Human Organization, 29(2), 123–132. Correspondent. (1913, 5 June). Modern buccaneers in

1568-607: The Taiwan Technical Mission based in South Tarawa . However, most households keep to a subsistence lifestyle and, although food is plentiful, money is often scarce as there are few paid jobs on the island. There are different stories told as to the creation of Butaritari and the other islands in the Southern Gilberts. An important legend in the culture of Butaritari is that spirits who lived in

1624-467: The West Pacific. New Age, pp. 136–140 (Online). Available: http://dl.lib.brown.edu/pdfs/1140814207532014.pdf (accessed 6 February 2012). Couper, AD. The island trade: an analysis of the environment and operation of seaborne trade among three islands in the Pacific. Canberra: Australian National University, Department of Geography; 1967. Couper, AD. Protest movements and proto-cooperatives in

1680-515: The Western Pacific Islands, 1857–1914". Journal of Pacific History . 8 (1): 10–28. doi : 10.1080/00223347308572220 . Maneaba The heart of any Kiribati community is its maneaba or meeting house. The maneaba is not just the biggest building in any village, it is the centre of village life and the basis of island and national governance. A traditional maneaba is an imposing structure, with slabs of coral supporting

1736-399: The areas where the reef changes directions. Mangrove swamps appear well developed in these latter areas as well as all along the southern lagoon shore. (Narrow islets are somewhat characteristic of Kiribati atolls running east–west.) Bikati and Bikatieta islets occupy a corner of the reef at the extreme northwest tip of the atoll, bordering a small lagoon to the north of the main lagoon. There

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1792-473: The bungalow type. Mahaffy described the native clothing as being of "shocking shape" and "atrocious color", and that the style was changing into "kilt(s) of leaves or fine woven mats". In the early to mid 20th century the principal source of income for Gilbert islanders was from working on the production of phosphate from the deposits on Banaba (Ocean Island) , an island to the west of the Gilbert Islands. In addition, coconut palms were cultivated on some of

1848-654: The crow flies. Geographically, the equator is the dividing line between the northern and southern Gilbert Islands. However, the International Hydrographic Organization (IHO) considers the entire Gilbert islands group to be in the South Pacific Ocean . Another way to group the Gilbert Islands is according to their former administrative districts , which were known as the Northern, Central, and Southern Gilberts. (Tarawa

1904-473: The fortified strongpoints one by one. Despite their great superiority in men and weapons, the Americans had considerable difficulty subduing the island's small defensive force. On November 23 the force commander reported "Makin taken." As compared to an estimated 395 Japanese and Koreans killed in action, American combat casualties numbered 66 killed and 152 wounded. But when the American losses incurred during

1960-425: The invasion to come from there, following the example of a raid in 1942. Without aircraft, ships, or hope of reinforcement or relief, the outnumbered and outgunned defenders could only try to delay the American attack for as long as possible. American air operations began on November 13, 1943, followed by bombardment from fire support ships. Troops began to go ashore on November 20, and the attacking troops knocked out

2016-411: The islands figure slightly, and there are remarkable stories of adventures, bravery, political machinations, etc . Probably out of print, but second hand copies are available I think, I have two, and the illustrations are delightful. On the same day as the attack on Pearl Harbor , the Japanese invaded the Gilbert Islands, occupying 3 of them by 9 December 1941. On 17 August 1942, 221 U.S. Marines of

2072-771: The islands in the 19th century. The first recorded visit was by the Ann and Hope , which called at Nikunau in December 1799. Two ships of the United States Exploring Expedition (1838–1842), USS  Peacock and Flying Fish , under the command of Captain William L. Hudson , visited many of the Gilbert Islands (then called the Kingsmill Islands or Kingsmill Group in English). While in

2128-700: The islands were named the Gilbert Islands or îles Gilbert (in French) by Adam Johann von Krusenstern , a Baltic German Admiral of the Russian Czar after the British Captain Thomas Gilbert , who crossed the archipelago in 1788. French captain Louis Duperrey was the first to map the whole Gilbert Islands archipelago. He commanded La Coquille on its circumnavigation of the earth (1822–1825). Many whaling ships called at

2184-421: The islands. All labor was supervised by the British and every effort was made to see that the wages and living conditions were fair and adequate. Sanitary inspections by the British did much to improve the general living conditions on most of the islands. Arthur Mahaffy noted in 1909 that "extreme poverty is virtually unknown", and that most people on the island owned their own land. Residents paid taxes , with

2240-434: The lagoon that has resulted in low levels of oxygen, therefore causing damage to fish stocks in the lagoon and causes other biological problems. Aggregate mining and the removal of coral boulders is exacerbating coastal erosion. The population of Butaritari in the 2010 Census was 4,346 people, inhabiting twelve villages: Butaritari is one of the lushest of the islands of Kiribati due to good rainfall. Typical annual rainfall

2296-465: The level of education throughout the colony. The bulk of the education was provided by the missions, which maintained all the village schools and trained the native school teachers. With the availability of European-style medical care life improved. The Phoenix Islands Settlement Scheme sought to provide an outlet through the development of three uninhabited atolls in the Phoenix Islands and

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2352-698: The main islands that have unique historical and cultural characteristics which distinguish the Central Gilberts from the north and south. Tembinok' , the last king of Abemama, Kuria and Aranuka, died in the early part of the 20th century. The Southern Gilberts include the atolls of Nonouti , South and North Tabiteuea , Beru , Nikunau , Onotoa , Tamana and the most southerly island of Arorae . The islands had been inhabited by Oceanians for several millennia (at least 2,000 years, probably 3,000). In 1606, Portuguese navigator Pedro Fernandes de Queirós sighted Butaritari and Makin , which he named

2408-581: The majority at the end of the Colony. The rest of the population were then largely semi-pagan agnostics; they did not adhere to the Christian faith, nor did they retain much of their beliefs in their own ancient gods. Native diet during this time consisted mainly of fish, coconuts, pandanus fruit, babai ( swamp taro ), chicken, and some pork. Housing for Europeans employed in the island was simple: constructed of European and native materials and generally of

2464-610: The majority of taxes going back into the community, and a small portion going to the Protectorate. Judged to be about 84% literate, the Gilbertese responded readily to the colony's educational efforts. All education in the islands came under the supervision of the Colonial Education Department whose aims were to educate native boys for employment in government and commercial work, and to standardize

2520-510: The opening of a new maneaba . The islands were visited as part of the United States Exploring Expedition in 1841. Any possible Guano Islands Act claim by the United States to Butaritari and Little Makin was renounced in the 1970s. The first traders resident in the Gilberts were Randell and Durant who arrived in 1846. Durant moved on to Makin , while Randell remained on Butaritari. The earliest trading companies on Butaritari were

2576-528: The reef is some 1.75 km (1.09 mi) across and with only scattered small islet development. Thus, the lagoon of Butaritari is very open to exchange with the ocean. The lagoon is deep and can accommodate large ships, though the entrance passages are relatively narrow. The south and southeast portion of the atoll comprises a nearly continuous islet, broken only by a single, broad section of interislet reef. These islets are mostly between 0.2 km (0.1 mi) and 0.5 km (0.3 mi) across, but widen in

2632-485: The sinking of the escort carrier USS Liscome Bay on November 24 by a Japanese submarine are included, the loss balance tips toward the other side. Counting the 687 sailors who went down with the carrier, American casualties exceeded the strength of the entire Japanese garrison on Makin. Butaritari is served by a twice weekly air service connecting with neighbouring Makin and the capital, South Tarawa , provided by Air Kiribati . The runway of Butaritari Atoll Airport

2688-527: The son of Queen Victoria so as to ensure that he would be treated as a person who should not be threatened or harmed. The last Uea was Nauraura Nakoriri who was in power both before and after the Gilberts became a British Protectorate in 1892. Butaritari Post Office opened on 1 January 1911. The Japanese trading company Nanyo Boeki Kabushiki Kaisha established operations in Butaritari Village. W. R. Carpenter & Co. (Solomon Islands) Ltd

2744-520: The subject of the 1909 report by Arthur Mahaffy. In 1913 an anonymous correspondent to The New Age journal described the mis-administration of Telfer Campbell and challenged the impartiality of Arthur Mahaffy as he was a former colonial official in the Gilberts. In 1915, starting from 1916, the Gilbert and Ellice Islands were proclaimed a colony of the British Empire . The natives of

2800-530: The two genders. Their ancestors, they said, had been white skinned and red haired and came from elsewhere, perhaps the West (possibly coinciding with the outward spread of Homo sapiens from Africa and elsewhere). As might be expected, they gave power to the natural forces and gave them names and godly characteristics (sun, moon, etc .) but believed in one spirit god, a bit similar to the god of Genesis, in that he/she seemed to have power over dark and light and so on, and

2856-449: Was established in 1922. Through the 1920s On Chong experienced gradual decline in its operations as the result of low copra prices. Eventually On Chong was taken over by W. R. Carpenter & Co. On 10 December 1941, three days after the attack on Pearl Harbor , 300 Japanese troops, plus laborers of the "Gilberts Invasion Special Landing Force" arrived off Butaritari — then known as "Makin" — and occupied without resistance. Lying east of

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2912-514: Was once a separate district as well). At one time, a subset of the northern Gilbert islands was known as Scarborough Islands and a subset of the southern Gilberts as the Kingsmill Group ; in some 19th century texts, this last name of Kingsmills was applied to the entire Gilberts group. Geologically, the Gilberts and the Ratak chain of the Marshall Islands to their north together form

2968-479: Was originally built as the World War II American strip (Starmann Field) . An international air service with a route of Tarawa Atoll –Butaritari– Majuro operated for a short period in 1995. The aim was to facilitate the development of a strong cash crop economy on the island and link the Marshall Islands with Kiribati. With the demise of Air Nauru in 2008, the only international air connection

3024-650: Was pretty much invisible. They had a strong belief in behaving properly to their ancestors, and especially their parents, and had well-developed community rules for courtesy to others. Read A Pattern of Islands , by Arthur Grimble , who worked in these islands and on Banaba , for the Colonial Administration, from just before the First World War to the mid thirties, or thereabouts. It is a remarkable, informative, funny and warm-hearted account of these people and their religion. Other religions on

3080-549: Was the last attempt at human colonization within the British Empire. Hiram Bingham II (1831–1908) was the first to translate the Bible into Gilbertese, and also wrote hymns for the Gilbertese language. Joanna Gordon-Clark writes of their religious belief: The Gilbert (and Ellice) Islanders had a strong set of beliefs of their own, pre the Christian missionaries; they had a strong foundation myth , involving trees and

3136-510: Was the ruler of Butaritari and Makin atolls , his father being Tebureimoa and his grandfather being Tetimararoa. Nakaeia was described by Stevenson as “a fellow of huge physical strength, masterful, violent … Alone in his islands it was he who dealt and profited; he was the planter and the merchant” with his subjects toiling in servitude and fear. Nakaeia allowed two San Francisco trading firms to operate, Messrs. Crawford and Messrs. Wightman Brothers, with up to 12 Europeans resident on islands of

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