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103-520: The expedition is notable for a violent conflict with the Tla-o-qui-aht people of Vancouver Island and another reported conflict in Formosa . Butterworth , Jackal and Prince Lee Boo are often credited with being the first European vessels to enter Honolulu Harbor . Jackal and Prince Lee Boo are also notable for taking part in the war between Kalanikupule and his uncle Ka'eokulani on

206-512: A French warship . Protestants went to Hiva Oa, and also had little success. There were few converts; tribal warfare and human sacrifice continued. Protestant missionaries gradually left Hiva Oa and returned to Hawaii, and only James Kekela remained. In 1899, he returned to Hawaii, dying in Honolulu on 29 November 1904. Hawaiian-born missionary James Bicknell translated the Gospel of John into

309-423: A ship's tender , to scout ahead in shallower waters, or to go off on errands. A man named Priestly owned both sloops. Butterworth 's burthen was 390 to 400 tons. Jackall ' s burthen 86 tons; Prince Lee Boo ' s was 56 tons. ( Burthen was a volumetric measure of cargo capacity, though expressed in tons.) As her burthen and several accounts attest, Prince Lee Boo was somewhat smaller than Jackal . As

412-592: A 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) penstock dropping 474 metres (1,555 ft) to a powerhouse with a 5.5 MW Pelton wheel generator. Water is then returned to Canoe Creek, eventually flowing into the Kennedy River. It is owned by a partnership of Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations & Swiftwater Power Corp, and managed by Barkley Project Group Ltd. The powerhouse is beside the highway at 49°10′37″N 125°23′45″W  /  49.176894°N 125.395741°W  / 49.176894; -125.395741 This hydroelectric project

515-530: A Spanish vessel that disappeared in a storm in June 1526; it was part of an expedition headed by García Jofre de Loaísa . The Spanish explorer Álvaro de Mendaña reached them nearly 70 years later, on 21 July 1595. He named the islands after his patron, García Hurtado de Mendoza , 5th Marquis of Cañete ( Spanish : Marqués de Cañete ), who served as Viceroy of Peru from 1590 to 1596. Mendaña visited first Fatu Hiva and then Tahuata before continuing on to

618-564: A canoe as they passed Diamond Head at daybreak. When they arrived at Hawai'i, Lamport and Bonallack informed John Young and Kamehameha of Kalanikupule's invasion plans, and of their intentions "to proceed immediately to China as our distressed situation will not allow us to proceed around Cape Horn." They were able to trade for provisions, handing over Kalanikupule's arms and ammunition as payment. Jackal and Prince Lee Boo arrived in China, and are reported to have been sold there. Prince Lee Boo

721-691: A direct relationship with the metropole, the government in Paris, instead of depending on Papeete . As sentiment was rising in Tahiti in the 21st century for independence from France, several prominent Marquesan political leaders in 2007 floated the idea of the Marquesas Islands separating from French Polynesia but remaining within the French Republic. This has generated controversy in Tahiti, where pro-independence Tahitian leaders have accused

824-483: A group of volcanic islands in French Polynesia , an overseas collectivity of France in the southern Pacific Ocean. Their highest point is the peak of Mount Oave (French: Mont Oave ) on Ua Pou island, at 1,230 m (4,035 ft) above sea level. Archaeological research suggests the islands were colonized in the 10th century AD by voyagers from West Polynesia. Over the centuries that followed,

927-970: A new administration and cultural center for the Nation. Currently, regionally focused appointments are made by the Hereditary Chiefs. Internal appointments to band committees etc. are made by Chief to the Clayoquot Biosphere Trust Board of Directors, the Clayoquot Sound Technical Planning Committee, the Central Region Management Board and the Central Region Board. The Tla-o-qui-aht (TFN) has been very active in economic development. They own and operate TinWis Resort, and have launched

1030-607: A number of delegates proportional to the size of its population. The president of the CODIM and the community council have their offices in Atuona , on the island of Hiva Oa . The current president is Benoît Kautai , mayor of Nuku Hiva , who was elected president by the community council in July 2020 after the 2020 French municipal elections and is due to serve for six years until the next municipal elections. The community of communes of

1133-426: A result, the CODIM is now in charge of drafting a blueprint for local economic development. The French Polynesian government also transferred to the CODIM the power to grant subsidies in favor of cultural and sports activities. Transfers of powers from the six communes to the CODIM have been extremely limited. Besides drafting a blueprint for economic development and granting subsidies for cultural and sports activities,

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1236-671: A rich habitat and environment. In 1791, the American maritime fur trader Joseph Ingraham first visited the northern Marquesas while commanding the brig Hope . He named them the Washington Islands. In 1813, Commodore David Porter claimed Nuku Hiva for the United States, but the United States Congress never ratified that claim. For a brief period the islands exported sandalwood , however

1339-584: A shorter time period, and in two waves: The first was a migration into the Society Islands between about 1025 and 1120 AD (four centuries later than had previously been thought); the second, between 70 and 265 years later, was a dispersal of migrants to all the remaining Marquesas islands between about 1190 and 1290 AD. This relatively rapid colonisation is believed to account for the "remarkable uniformity of East Polynesian culture, biology and language". A different study, published in 2014, suggested that

1442-521: A tier of ports fore and aft. The greatest part of them were false or only painted, yet they made such a good appearance that for some time we concluded she was a King's cutter or a tender to some man-of-war". Alexander Stewart served as master of Jackal from her departure from London in late 1791 until Captain Brown took command in late 1793. Upon the death of Capt. Brown in 1795, George Lamport took command of Jackal . Prince Lee Boo had been launched on

1545-539: A tourism-booking center owned by their Economic Development Corporation. The Nation has tourism, artist/carver and small business entrepreneurs. They are involved in expanding their community housing with a reserve expansion situated adjacent to Pacific Rim Provincial Park and they are working towards the establishment of a tribal park in the Kennedy Lake watershed that will "marry" economic development and environmental protection in this part of their territory. In 2008

1648-619: A very different lifestyle at Ha-ooke-min. Tla-o-qui-aht is in the process of rebuilding through a combination of restoring functions and adapting to the modern political landscape in British Columbia. The Hereditary Chiefs are leading Tla-o-qui-aht through this process. Tla-o-qui-aht maintains two administration offices, one at Opitsaht and the other on the property of Tin Wis Resort in Tofino. They are currently making plans for

1751-555: Is subducting under northern Peru . The Marquesas islands are estimated to range in age from 1.3 million years old (Fatu Hiva) to 6 million years old (Eiao). All of them except Motu One are volcanic islands . Motu One is a low island , consisting of a small sand bank on a coral reef , the only atoll in the Marquesas Islands. Unlike most French Polynesian islands, the Marquesas islands (other than Motu One) are not surrounded by protective fringing reefs. In those islands, coral

1854-486: Is a place in Clayoquot Sound presently known as Clayoqua. In this way Tla-o-qui-aht can be understood to mean the “people from a different place.” Clayoquot Sound is on the western coast of Vancouver Island , north of Tofino . In former times, the tribe's ancestors were in fact not one tribe, but many small tribes and family groups who lived all around Ha-ooke-min, which is now known as Kennedy Lake and which

1957-409: Is found only in bays and other protected areas, or, in the case of Fatu Huku , in an unusual place: in fossilized form at the top of the island. The South Equatorial Current lashes all these islands fiercely; its force has carved sea-caves that dot their shores. Although the islands have valleys that empty into small bays, they are remarkable for their mountain ridges, which end abruptly in cliffs at

2060-695: Is last listed in Lloyd's Register for 1794. Several of the crew of Jackal and Prince Lee Boo remained in the Pacific, notably Capt. Alexander Stewart and John Harbottle, who had both been officers in the Butterworth squadron and became prominent officers in the navy of the Kingdom of Hawaii . Stewart had left Jackal in Macao in 1793, returning to Hawai'i to marry, probably in 1795. Harbottle later sailed on

2163-535: Is not clearly recorded, but it has been suggested that Kalanikupule may have requested that Brown and his men assist Kalanikupule in an attack against Kamehameha on Hawai'i, and Brown may have refused. If Brown did indeed have a land claim from Kalanikupule, this would have traditionally required him to serve in time of war, and to refuse would have been considered rebellion, punishable by death. Kalanikupule then decided to kill Captain Brown and capture Jackal and Prince Lee Boo . At his general's advice, he agreed to pay

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2266-596: Is part of the Nuu-chah-nulth Tribal Council . There were 618 people living in the Tla-o-qui-aht reserves in 1995. Their primary economic activities are fishing and tourism . Tla-o-qui-aht, whose ancestral border is determined by the height of land, the direction of the rivers flow and as far as the eye can see on the ocean, is a confederacy of aboriginal groups who historically were independent from one another. Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations

2369-635: Is the Indian band mandated under the Federal Indian Act to deliver civil and human services to Tla-o-qui-aht. The hereditary governance systems and structures of Tla-o-qui-aht that exist today, and that have existed since time immemorial have a dynamic relationship with the Indian band administration and with the general population of Tla-o-qui-aht. The Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation resides on two separate reserves, one on Meares Island (Opitsaht) and

2472-415: Is the second-largest island in the entire territory (after Tahiti ). With the exception of Motu One, all the islands of the Marquesas are of volcanic origin. Although Polynesia tends to be associated with images of lush tropical vegetation, and the Marquesas lie within the tropics, they are remarkably dry. That is because they constitute the first major break for the prevailing easterly winds that arise from

2575-456: Is thought to have been formed by a centre of upwelling magma , called the Marquesas hotspot . The islands in the group fall naturally into two geographical divisions. One is the northern group, consisting of Eiao , Hatutu ( Hatutaa ), Motu One , and the islands surrounding the large island of Nuku Hiva : Motu Iti , also called Hatu Iti ; Ua Pou ; Motu Oa ; and Ua Huka ). The other is

2678-478: Is where Tla-o-qui is located. The defining event that changed the face of Tla-o-qui-aht forever is eternalized in the name of the Esowista Peninsula . The war of Esowista was a great war that Tla-o-qui-aht engaged in as a single force. The people who once lived on the peninsula from Long Beach to Tofino and further north had kept tight control of ocean resources and had made it a common practice to raid

2781-472: The El Niño phenomenon. The typical variability of the sea-level climate in the Marquesas is well illustrated by measurements made at the Atuona weather station on Hiva ʻOa: The highest recorded annual rainfall there is 3,760 millimetres (148 in); the lowest is 560 millimetres (22 in). The first recorded settlers of the Marquesas were Polynesians who arrived from West Polynesia, descendants of

2884-595: The circonscription des Marquises ("district of the Marquesas"), one of French Polynesia's four circonscriptions ("districts") created in 2000 by the Assembly of French Polynesia to serve as deconcentrated subdivisions of the government of French Polynesia in the islands away from Tahiti and Moorea . The head of the circonscription des Marquises is the tavana hau , known as administrateur territorial in French ("territorial administrator"), but

2987-520: The Assembly of French Polynesia (see also Politics of French Polynesia ). The Marquesas Islands are subdivided in six communes (municipalities). In each of the six communes the local residents with either a French or another EU citizenship elect a municipal council and a mayor in charge of managing local affairs within the commune. Three communes ( Nuku-Hiva , Ua-Pou , and Hiva-Oa ) are further subdivided into associated communes due to their larger population. The communes and associated communes are

3090-616: The Butterworth's surgeon and naturalist, left the Butterworth at Nootka on October 15, 1792 "on account of the ill and mean usage I received from Capt. W. Brown and his Officers." Prince Lee Boo was often used to take soundings ahead of Butterworth . She was loaned to Captain George Vancouver for this purpose in Queen Charlotte Sound in 1793. The squadron did not procure many furs on their first visit to

3193-516: The Lapita Culture . Early attempts to carbon-date evidence from the site suggested they arrived before 100 AD, with other estimates proposing settlement from 600 AD, but several more recent independent studies suggest that they arrived more recently. For example, a 2010 study that applied higher-precision radiocarbon dating methods to more reliable samples suggests that the earliest colonisation of eastern Polynesia took place much later, within

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3296-526: The Marquesas hotspot that underlies the Pacific Plate . The Marquesas Islands lie above a submarine volcanic plateau of the same name. The plateau, like the islands, is generally believed to be less than 5 million years old, though one hypothesis is that the plateau (not the islands) is significantly older, and has been formed by forces similar to those that have formed the Inca Plateau , which

3399-474: The Solomon Islands . His expedition charted the four southernmost Marquesas as Magdalena (Fatu Hiva), Dominica ( Hiva ʻOa ), San Pedro ( Moho Tani ), and Santa Cristina (Tahuata). In the late 18th century, European explorers estimated that the population was 80,000 to 100,000. Europeans and Americans were impressed with how easy life appeared to be in the islands, which had

3502-619: The Tahitian title tavana hau is most often used. The tavana hau is the direct representative of the president of French Polynesia's government who appoints him. The tavana hau and his staff sit in Taiohae on Nuku Hiva, same as the State administrator. The tavana hau is in charge of: The Marquesas Islands also form the electoral district of the Marquesas Islands, one of French Polynesia 's six electoral districts for

3605-473: The Tla-o-qui-aht People , killing one of his crew and seriously injuring two others, but other vessels present at the time told a different story. "The English sailors landed at a village in order to rob the natives and actually cut several skins off the natives' backs. Seeing them gathering to defend themselves, the sailors fired on them, by which they said four men were killed. This was before

3708-469: The (atmospherically) dry Humboldt Current . This subjects the Marquesas to frequent drought conditions. Only those islands that reach highest into the clouds (generally, higher than 750 metres (2,460 ft) above sea level) reliably have periods of precipitation. These conditions have historically led to periodic fluctuations in the availability of fresh water. Periodic lack of water has made human habitation only intermittently sustainable in certain parts of

3811-446: The 12th of January ... about three p.m. the chiefs ordered the vessels out of the harbor to go to the bay of Waikiki where about 4 p.m we brought up and lay till ten p.m., and having all the people on board we both attacked the natives, wounded and drove them overboard and got possession of both vessels when we repaired to the island of Hawai'i. Another early manuscript gives more detail: The next afternoon, Mr. Bonallack, mate of

3914-617: The 18th century to about 20,000 by the middle of the 19th century, and to just over 4,000 by the beginning of the 20th century, reaching an all-time low of 2,255 in 1926. After that, the population started to increase, reaching 8,548 by the time of the November 2002 census (not including the Marquesan community residing in Tahiti ), and 9,346 by the time of the August 2017 census. In 2024,

4017-510: The 2017 census (down from 3,493 at the 2007 census), whereas 5,907 people born in the Marquesas Islands lived in the Marquesas (down from 6,106 at the 2007 census), and 705 lived in the rest of French Polynesia (up from 679 at the 2007 census). The total number of people born in the Marquesas Islands and living in French Polynesia decreased from 10,278 at the 2007 census to 9,965 at the 2017 census, as net births were not able to offset

4120-459: The 400 hogs. On January 1, 1795, the hogs were herded down to the beach to be slaughtered and salted down in barrels. But a great quantity of salt was needed for the task, so a party of men and a boat were sent some distance to collect it. As the mates of Jackal and Prince Lee Boo told the story soon afterwards: "When the greatest part of the crew of the Jackall being on shore salting pork and

4223-485: The American sloop [sic] and killed poor Kendrick at his table." According to Captain Boit of the American sloop Union , Kendrick "informed Capt. Brown that on the morrow he should cause the flag of the United States to be hoisted and fire a federal salute, which he begged might be answered by the two Englishmen, and it was accordingly agreed to, and Capt. Brown ordered three guns to be unshotted for that purpose, and about ten

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4326-506: The CODIM is currently in charge only of creating hiking trails, drafting studies for waste collection (but not actually managing waste collection, which the communes kept for themselves), drafting a blueprint for transports between the islands of the archipelago, acquiring computers and office equipment for the six communes of the archipelago, and offering legal and technical support to the six communes. The French Polynesian public auditor ( chambre territoriale des comptes ) has pointed out that

4429-442: The CODIM is not a full-fledged territorial collectivity , but only a federation of communes (in French Polynesia, only the overseas collectivity of French Polynesia and the 48 communes are territorial collectivities). The CODIM is governed by a president and by a community council ( conseil communautaire ) which is made up of 15 delegates elected by the municipal councils of the six communes among their members, with each commune having

4532-605: The Catholic Diocese of Taiohae ( Latin : Dioecesis Taiohaënus seu Humanae Telluris ). According to 2017 data 90.1% of the population of the Marquesas Islands was affiliated with the Catholic Church, an increase from 1950 when Catholics formed 87.3% of population of the islands. Although the Mendaña ships had chaplains on board, there does not appear to have been any serious attempt at missionary work in

4635-567: The French central State and the government of French Polynesia. As a deconcentrated subdivision of the French central State, the Marquesas Islands form the administrative subdivision of the Marquesas (French: subdivision administrative des Marquises ), one of French Polynesia 's five administrative subdivisions . The head of the administrative subdivision of the Marquesas is the administrateur d'État ("State administrator"), generally simply known as administrateur , also sometimes called chef de la subdivision administrative ("head of

4738-590: The French central government of encouraging the separation of the Marquesas Islands from French Polynesia. The Marquesas Islands do not have a provincial or regional assembly, but since 2010 the six communes (municipalities) into which the Marquesas Islands are divided have gathered to form an intercommunality , the community of communes of the Marquesas Islands (in French: communauté de communes des îles Marquises , or CODIM). As all communities of communes in France,

4841-533: The Lee Boo, coming on board the Jackal, agreed with Mr. Lamport to attempt retaking the ships at 11 o'clock that night. The Lee Boo took the lead and succeeded. Mr. Lamport, hearing before the appointed hour the report of a pistol from that vessel, ran from the cabin on deck, called to his men below that death or victory must issue in five minutes, and with only three of them armed, attacked twenty-three armed Indians on

4944-517: The Marquesan language in 1857. From 1838 to 1839, the Catholic mission was able to establish itself, supported by the French order Pères et religieuses des Sacrés-Cœurs de Picpus (founded in 1800). The missionaries spread from Mangareva to Tahuata, Ua Pou, Fatu Hiva and Nuku Hiva . They suffered the same hostile tribal reception as the previous Protestants. However, with the support of the French authorities, they were able to sustain themselves in

5047-465: The Marquesan quarry island of Eiao. It is known to have been distributed via sailing canoes over distances of more than 2500 km to provide adze heads to Mo'orea (Society Islands), Mangareva (Gambier Islands), Tubuai (Austral Islands), Rarotonga (Cook Islands), and Tabuaeran (Northern Line Islands). The first Europeans to reach the Marquesas may have been the crew members aboard the San Lesmes ,

5150-532: The Marquesas Islands administrative subdivision is the settlement of Taiohae on the island of Nuku Hiva . The sparsely populated Marquesas Islands are located 1,371 km (852 mi) from Tahiti . With 183,645 inhabitants (2012 census), Tahiti is the most populous island of French Polynesia, containing 68.5% of the total population of the grouping. Residents of the Marquesas have chafed at Tahiti's overwhelming dominance, complaining of neglect by politicians based in Tahiti, and leaders have suggested developing

5253-459: The Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia . They are usually classified into two groups, North Marquesan and South Marquesan, corresponding roughly along geographic lines. The North Marquesan dialects are spoken on the islands of Ua Pu and Nuku Hiva , and South Marquesan dialects on the islands of Hiva ʻOa , Tahuata and Fatu Hiva . The dialects of Ua Huka are often incorrectly classified as North Marquesan; they are instead transitional. While

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5356-489: The Marquesas Islands was created in 2010 with the aim of delegating powers both from the six communes and from the overseas collectivity of French Polynesia to this new intercommunal structure, due to the isolation of the Marquesas Islands and distance from the seat of the French Polynesian government in Tahiti. The government of French Polynesia transferred to the CODIM the power to oversee economic development. As

5459-445: The Marquesas Islands were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under " Te Henua Enata " ( lit.   ' The Land of Men ' ), as part of the committee 's commitment to conservation efforts protecting indigenous populations. The Marquesas Islands form one of the five administrative divisions ( subdivisions administratives ) of French Polynesia. French and Tahitian are the official languages of government. The capital of

5562-442: The Marquesas Islands' administrative subdivision is the town of Taiohae , on the island of Nuku Hiva . The population of the Marquesas Islands was 9,346 inhabitants at the time of the August 2017 census. The Marquesas Islands group is one of the most remote in the world. It lies about 1,370 kilometres (850 mi) northeast of Tahiti and about 4,800 kilometres (3,000 mi) west of Mexico (the nearest continental land mass). It

5665-559: The Marquesas Islands. The first missionaries to arrive in the Marquesas from 1797, coming from England via Tahiti, were William Pascoe Crook (1775–1846) and John Harris (1754–1819) of the London Missionary Society . Harris could not endure the conditions at all and returned to Tahiti only a few months later. A contemporary report says that he was picked up on the beach, utterly desperate, naked and looted. Crook remained until 1799. The American mission from Hawaii

5768-418: The Marquesas, as can be seen in the language statistics: 50.8% of the Marquesas Islands' residents whose age was 15 or older and who were born in Tahiti and lived in the Marquesas at the 2017 census reported that the language they spoke the most at home was Marquesan , whereas 42.1% reported French , and only 6.6% reported Tahitian . 3,353 people born in the Marquesas Islands lived on the island of Tahiti at

5871-537: The Nation signed a protocol with the District of Tofino to work collaboratively towards planned development on the north end of the peninsula where several large parcels of crown land are under discussion. Like several other Nations, some TFN members (six to eight) are still involved in the fishing industry including spawn-on-kelp, and commercial salmon and halibut fishing. Is a run-of-river hydro plant in operation since 2010. A weir on Canoe Creek diverts water through

5974-667: The Northwest Coast. They wintered in the Hawaiian Islands and returned early the next year, in the Spring 1793. They had better success the 2nd year, and at the end of Autumn, Captain Brown dispatched Butterworth to return to England around Cape Horn, picking up the sealing party he had left there, with the seal skins they were expected to have procured. Brown then sailed in to Canton in Prince Lee Boo with all

6077-622: The Southern Fisheries. One man was drowned, but the rest of the crew were saved and returned to Portsmouth. Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations The Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations ( Nuu-chah-nulth : ƛaʔuukʷiʔatḥ ) are a Nuu-chah-nulth First Nation ( band government ) in Canada . They live on ten reserves along the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve on Vancouver Island , British Columbia. The band

6180-553: The Thames in 1791. She was named for Prince Lee Boo , a young Palau Islander who traveled to London in 1784. Masters of Prince Lee Boo were Mr. Richard Sharp, and later Robert Gordon. Upon the death of Robert Gordon in 1795, William Bonallack took command of Prince Lee Boo . Although Sigismund Bacstrom, in a letter to Sir Joseph Banks of Aug. 1791, claimed that the expedition was a commercial venture aimed at bringing back "valuable drugs or natural products" and quite "independent of

6283-407: The actions of the CODIM have been very limited and fallen short of its theoretical powers due to a very small budget (less than 100 million Pacific Francs, i.e. less than US$ 1 million). For example, the CODIM has not exercised its power to acquire computers and office equipment for the six communes of the archipelago, and more generally its creation has not led to a pooling of resources and expenses by

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6386-589: The administrative subdivision"). The administrateur is a civil servant under the authority of the High Commissioner of the French Republic in French Polynesia in Papeete . The administrateur and his staff sit in Taiohae , on the island of Nuku Hiva , which has become the administrative capital of the Marquesas Islands, having replaced Atuona on the island of Hiva ʻOa , which was previously

6489-418: The capital (although, in reverse to this general trend, Atuona was selected as the seat of the community of communes of the Marquesas Islands in 2010). Acting as the representative of the French central State and delegate of Papeete's High Commissioner, the administrateur of the Marquesas is in charge of: As a deconcentrated subdivision of the government of French Polynesia, the Marquesas Islands form

6592-415: The captured crew was put to work preparing the vessels for sea, and on January 11 they were ready to sail for Hawai'i. Kalanikupule ordered all of the arms and ammunition to be loaded into the two captured vessels, along with all the captured crew, although he was advised by his general to divide them among the canoes. This proved to be a fatal mistake. According to Lamport and Bonallack who were present, on

6695-487: The date of first settlement in the Marquesas was somewhat earlier: between around 900 and 1000 AD. The richness of the natural resources in the islands has historically supported a large population. The inhabitants historically made a living by fishing, collecting shellfish, hunting birds, and gardening. They relied heavily on breadfruit but raised at least 32 other introduced crops. Hard evidence of significant pre-European interarchipelago trade has been found in basalt from

6798-468: The death of Kahekili, his son Kalanikupule had succeeded him as ruler of Oahu, and Kahekili's half-brother Ka'eokulani, who had retained command of the Maui group of islands, was invading Oahu. This war became known as Kuki'iahu and was fought from November 16 until December 12, 1794. When Jackal and Prince Lee Boo arrived at Honolulu, Kalanikupule requested their assistance in the battle. In return Brown

6901-544: The departures to New Caledonia and Metropolitan France due to the economic crisis experienced by French Polynesia. Most of the population of the Marquesas Islands is Christian as a consequence of the missionary activity of the Catholic Church , and various Protestant Christian groups. The main church in the area is the Cathedral of Our Lady of Taiohae ( French : Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Taiohae ), seat of

7004-473: The edge of the sea. Temperatures in the Marquesas are stable all year round. Precipitation is highly variable: greater in the northern and eastern (windward) coastal areas and mountains, averaging 2,500 millimetres (98 in) annually; much lower in the western (leeward) areas. Average annual precipitation in the "desert" region of Nuku Hiva is only 510 millimetres (20 in). Droughts are frequent, sometimes lasting several years, and seem to be associated with

7107-418: The exact date is in question, it was probably during this period of alliance with Kahekili that the Butterworth squadron became the first European vessels allowed to enter the inner Honolulu Harbor. By Hawaiian tradition, this contract would have ended upon Kahekili's death in 1794 Jackal and Prince Lee Boo returned to Oahu on 21 November 1794 to find a very different situation from the one they had left. On

7210-485: The exhaustive community consultation that was implemented by Tla-o-qui-aht during the Meares Island court case. Tla-o-qui-aht is the confederation of historic native groups that once lived all around the lake system called Ha-ooke-min. Tla-o-qui-aht has been translated to mean “different people from a different place.” However, it means much more than that: aht is a prefix for the term 'people', and tla-o-qui

7313-411: The following: Between the 2007 and 2017 censuses, the population of residents of the Marquesas Islands born in Tahiti rose by 50.5% (from 1,810 at the 2007 census to 2,726 at the 2017), and as a result, they made up 29.2% of the population in 2017. A lot of these arrivals from Tahiti, however, are children of Marquesans who had migrated to Tahiti and given birth there, and whose children are returning to

7416-596: The furs collected by the three ships. According to Capt. George Vancouver, both Jackal and Prince Lee Boo made this voyage to Canton. The Butterworth squadron first wintered at the Hawaiian Islands in February 1793, when control of the Islands was divided between Kamehameha who controlled Hawai'i and much of Maui, and Kahekili who controlled the islands west of Maui including Oahu and Kauai. Brown traded in weapons with both Kamehameha and Kahekili, but strongly favored

7519-413: The island is in the northern Marquesas group, the dialects show more morphological and phonological affinities with South Marquesan. The North Marquesan dialects are sometimes considered to be two separate languages: North Marquesan and Tai Pi Marquesan , the latter being spoken in the valleys of the eastern third of the island of Nuku Hiva, in the ancient province of Tai Pi . The most striking feature of

7622-400: The island of Oahu , for firing the shot that killed John Kendrick aboard Lady Washington , and for participating in an aborted attack on Kamehameha by Kalanikupule. The squadron consisted of three vessels, Butterworth , a full-rigged ship four to six times the size of the two sloops that accompanied her. The role of each of the two sloops, Jackal and Prince Lee Boo , was to act as

7725-484: The islands have maintained a "remarkably uniform culture, biology and language". The Marquesas were named after the 16th-century Spanish Viceroy of Peru , the Marquis of Cañete ( Spanish : Marqués de Cañete ), by navigator Álvaro de Mendaña , who visited them in 1595. The Marquesas Islands constitute one of the five administrative divisions ( subdivisions administratives ) of French Polynesia. The capital of

7828-549: The latter. In particular he entered into a contract with Kahekili giving Brown the title to the island of Oahu together with four islands to windward in return for weapons and military assistance, suppressing a revolt on Kauai. James Coleman, a seaman left in Ni'ihau by Captain Kendrick who had later joined Kehikili's forces, was given stewardship of the land for Capt. Brown and authority over foreign trade during Brown's absence. Although

7931-762: The long run, despite the obstacles. They even managed to baptize King Moana of Nuku Hiva who, however, would die of smallpox in 1863. The missionaries of all denominations did their best to eradicate the traditional culture in any way possible. Not only were the Christians disapproving of the long-enjoyed consumption of kava , the ancient and sacred tattoo artwork, and general dancing and traditional music, but they were especially horrified by tribal fertility /virility rites and skull dissection . However, they also tried – and finally succeeded – putting an end to cannibalism , human sacrifice and constant tribal warfare. French and Tahitian are

8034-562: The men out of them and caused them to be whipped in a most unmerciful manner by the Sandwich Islanders he had on board. After that he threw them into the sea, and the ship Jenny  ... being astern, fired at them and ended the tragedy." One of the men killed was the brother of the chief Wickaninnish. The Butterworth squadron then sailed north to Nootka and Haida Gwaii, returning to Nootka Sound in October. Sigismund Bacstrom ,

8137-542: The natives were armed, but they found their mistake as soon as Wickaninnish 's warriors turned out, who with two canoes made the whaleboats fly. Had not Captain Magee [of the ship Margaret ] fired a cannon shot between them, they would certainly have been cut off ... However, the Englishmen ;... took ample revenge. After they were out of port ... they fell in with some canoes fishing. Captain Brown got

8240-572: The new fur trade between Nootka and China," there is no evidence that it was concerned with anything but the lucrative maritime fur trade and the sealery of Tierra del Fuego . In 1791 as the Butterworth expedition was being organized, Alderman Curtis was actively involved in the debate for opening the trade monopolies to Pacific Ocean trade held by the South Sea Company and the East India Company , particularly in light of

8343-474: The next morning the ship Jackal began to salute, but on coming to the third gun it was discovered to be primed. So the apron of the fourth firearm was taken off which was fired and being shotted with round and grape shot, it pierced the side of the Lady Washington and killed Capt Kendrick as he sat at his table, and killed and wounded many upon the deck." James Rowan, the mate of Lady Washington at

8446-476: The official languages of all of French Polynesia, but the Marquesan languages, in their various forms, remain the primary means of communication among residents within this archipelago. In addition, knowledge of French is now almost universal among residents of the Marquesas Islands (see census data below). Marquesan is a collection of East-Central Polynesian language dialects, of the Marquesic group, spoken in

8549-504: The only elected councils in the Marquesas since there does not exist a provincial or regional assembly for the entire archipelago (the community council of the CODIM ( community of communes of the Marquesas Islands) is not directly elected by local residents, but is only made up of delegates chosen by the municipal councils of the six communes). Municipal elections are held every six years on the same day as municipal elections in

8652-615: The other at Esowista, surrounded by Pacific Rim National Park. A reserve expansion is planned for the Esowista site. The Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation (TFN) has been very active in economic development. The keystone to understanding Tla-o-qui-aht history is understanding what the term Tla-o-qui-aht means. The following translation/interpretation was developed based on conversations with various Tla-o-qui-aht elders (including Mary Hayes and Dixon Sam Mitt, among others), fluent speakers, master craftsmen, seasoned politicians and those who participated in

8755-487: The quarterdeck, reserving their fire till close at hand, and then falling upon them with the butt end of their muskets, which soon broke. Of forty-two Natives whom they had counted on board before dark, they cleared the ships in ten minutes." With Kalanikupule, his wife and four of their attendants confined in Jackal's cabin, Jackal and Prince Lee Boo sailed for Hawai'i, releasing Kalanikupule, his wife and one attendant in

8858-530: The recent Nootka Convention with Spain which opened the Pacific Northwest Coast to British traders. In early 1792, Butterworth anchored in New Year's Cove on Staten Island , Tierra del Fuego , where they "built a Large Hut and left an Officer with a few Men there to kill Seals and boil Oil."[Bacstrom] Butterworth would not return for these men until the end of 1793 when Butterworth

8961-560: The remainder part away with their boat collecting salt, except [Capt. Brown] and one man, and part of the crew of the Prince Le Boo likewise on shore on duty, that the natives of the said island about ten a.m. on the 1st of January attacked the said vessel with several canoes, killed the commander William Brown and Robert Gordon and wounded several others and got possession of the vessel." Kalanikupule and his generals then determined to attack Kamehameha's forces on Hawai'i. On January 3

9064-617: The resource was depleted within four years. The islands were a popular port of call for whaling ships in the Age of Sail . The first on record to visit was the Hope , in April 1791. The last known such visitor was the American whaler Alaska in February 1907. In 1842, France conducted a successful military operation in support of the native chief Iotete 's claim that he was king of the whole island of Tahuata. The French government then laid claim to

9167-417: The rest of France (see 2020 French municipal elections for the last municipal elections). Each municipal council then selects delegates among its members to sit in the community council of the CODIM in Atuona (on the island of Hiva Oa ). The areas and populations of the communes at the 2012 Census were as follows: The places of birth of the 9,346 residents of the Marquesas Islands at the 2017 census were

9270-580: The ship Nautilus and was severely injured when the crew was attacked in Formosa, reportedly in retaliation for earlier depredations by Capt. Brown when the Butterworth squadron visited the island in 1793. Butterworth successfully returned to England on 3 February 1795, with Sharpe, master. She was carrying 85 tuns of whale oil and 17500 seal skins. She then made several more whaling voyages. Lloyd's List reported that Butterworth , Folger, master, had been lost on 13 July 1802 off St. Jago, while outbound to

9373-428: The six communes. Most of the CODIM's budget has been spent on drafting a blueprint for local economic development, but the CODIM has neither the power nor the financial means to implement the blueprint and build the required infrastructure. The public auditor has called for an expansion of the powers and financial resources of the CODIM. Administratively, the Marquesas Islands form a deconcentrated subdivision of both

9476-422: The sleepy fishing villages of Ha-ooke-min to take slaves and other commodities. In Nuu-chah-nulth, Esowista means “clubbed to death.” Tla-o-qui-aht maintained their presence in this part of the sound through to first contact with Europeans in the late 18th century. In summary, Tla-o-qui-aht, different people, are the people from Tla-o-qui; they are a confederation of many different smaller groups who once lived

9579-399: The southern group, consisting of Fatu Uku , Tahuata , Moho Tani ( Motane ), Terihi , Fatu Hiva , and Motu Nao (also called Thomasset Rock), which are clustered around the main island of Hiva ʻOa . The Marquesas are among the largest island groups in French Polynesia. Their combined land area is 1,049 square kilometres (405 sq mi). One of the islands in the group, Nuku Hiva,

9682-496: The time, would later say that "he had sworn since Captain Kendrick's death he would salute no vessel in a hurry, except at a safe distance." Captain Kendrick's body was buried ashore. Shortly thereafter Lady Washington sailed for Canton. Ka'eokulani's invading forces were defeated on December 12. Soon after, a dispute arose between Capt. Brown and Kalanikupule over what was owed to Brown regarding his claims to Oahu and his obligations to Kalanikupule. The exact nature of this dispute

9785-455: The various islands throughout the archipelago. For example, Ua Huka Island (maximum elevation 857 metres (2,812 ft)) has a history of low population levels, and Eiao Island (maximum elevation 576 metres (1,890 ft)) has been intermittently uninhabited. There are also a number of seamounts or shoals, located primarily in the area of the northern Marquesas. Among these are: Most of the Marquesas Islands are of volcanic origin, created by

9888-634: The whole island group and established a settlement on Nuku Hiva. That settlement was abandoned in 1857, but France re-established control over the group in 1870. It later incorporated the Marquesas into French Polynesia . The indigenous people of the Marquesas suffered high death rates from diseases carried by Western explorers, such as smallpox and measles , because none of them had any immunity to them. The Marquesas lost more people to death from these diseases than any other island group in Polynesia. The population shrank from over 78,000 inhabitants in

9991-617: Was "dispatched towards England with directions to fish for whales and seals in passing through the Pacific Ocean, and at Staten Island where Mr. Brown had formed a temporary establishment." From Cape Horn the Butterworth squadron sailed to the Marquesas Islands and on to the Vancouver Island , reaching Clayoquot Sound in late July 1792. In early August, Captain Brown claimed there was an unprovoked attack by

10094-511: Was "met with a very friendly reception by Capt. Brown." On December 6, a battle was fought, Kalanikupule was victorious. The accounts differ as to what next happened. According to Captain Bishop of the British ship Ruby , Kalanikupule "came off and did homage to Brown as before, and at his return was saluted by one of the vessels, one of the guns happened to be shotted, which pierced the cabin of

10197-698: Was completed in 2014. It has a weir in Haa-ak-suuk Creek diverting water to a 3.6 kilometres (2.2 mi) penstock leading to a 6 MW powerhouse at 49°14′53″N 125°23′01″W  /  49.248074°N 125.383682°W  / 49.248074; -125.383682 Marquesas Islands The Marquesas Islands ( / m ɑːr ˈ k eɪ s ə s / mar- KAY -səss ; French : Îles Marquises or Archipel des Marquises or Marquises [maʁkiz] ; Marquesan : Te Henua ʻEnana ( North Marquesan ) and Te Fenua ʻEnata ( South Marquesan ), both meaning "the land of men") are

10300-689: Was highly respected in his field and was consulted by a Fellow of the Royal Society concerning the possibility of approaching the North Pole. Jackal (sometimes spelled "Jackall" or "Jack Hall"), had been launched in America in 1782. The one contemporary picture of her appears to show a lapstrake sloop with tiller steering, and a removable bowsprit and lightly stayed mast such as were commonly found on longboats and cutters intended to be carried on deck or towed astern of larger vessels. She "showed

10403-505: Was no more successful. William Patterson Alexander (1805–1864), Benjamin Parker (1803–1877), and Richard Armstrong (1805–1860) arrived in the Marquesas in 1834 from Hawaii with their wives and a three-month-old baby. They returned the same year. In 1853, more missionaries led by James Kekela (1824–1904) arrived at Fatu Hiva with their wives from Hawaii, but were unable to remain there because of clashes with Catholic missionaries arriving on

10506-500: Was to receive 400 hogs, and according to some accounts, authority over the island of Oahu. Eight men under the command of George Lamport, mate of the Jackal, joined Kalanikupule's forces in a series of battles ashore while Captain Brown and the remaining crew defended the shoreline from the Jackal and Prince Lee Boo . On December 3, 1794, during the conflict, the American snow Lady Washington arrived in Pearl Harbor where she

10609-507: Was typical of the times, all three vessels were armed. Butterworth carried sixteen guns; the two smaller vessels had nine guns between them. Butterworth was a former French vessel, built in 1778, that came into British hands in 1784. In British hands she became a whaler . Her master was Captain William Brown, "an able and expert seaman, regularly brought up in the whale fishery." Brown and Butterworth were Greenland whalers. Brown

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