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124-616: The family is descended from weavers and burghers in the city-republic of Hamburg, and rose to great prominence in Hamburg in the late 18th century as a result of Johann Hinrich Gossler 's marriage to Elisabeth Berenberg , the last member of the Belgian-origined Berenberg family and the sole heir to Berenberg Bank . Through marriage, the family thus became the main owners of the bank, which has legally been named Joh. Berenberg, Gossler & Co. since 1791. Since

248-469: A velvet weaver , was a burgher of Hamburg from 1656 and lived in the parish of St. Catherine . He was the father of, among others, Daniel, David, Albert and Jacob Gossler (1666– ca. 1732), who all became velvet weavers and Hamburg burghers. Jacob Gossler had nine children, among them Johann Eybert Gossler (1700–1776), who was an accountant and a Hamburg burgher, and who bought the ceremonial office of Herrenschenk (i.e. cup-bearer ; master of ceremonies of

372-753: A chance to correct the distortions of public memory, this is it." The Third Reich trilogy has been, or is being translated, into sixteen foreign languages. In 2013, Evans delivered the Menachem Stern Jerusalem Lectures to the Historical Society of Israel, publishing them in 2014 as Altered Pasts: Counterfactuals in History . The book puts forward a variety of arguments against the use of long-range alternative historical timelines as an aid to serious historical understanding. In "Cosmopolitan Islanders: British Historians and

496-561: A collection of essays by young British historians entitled Society And Politics in Wilhelmine Germany , he launched a critique of the 'top-down' approach of the Bielefeld School associated with Hans-Ulrich Wehler and Jürgen Kocka regarding Wilhelmine Germany . With the historians Geoff Eley and David Blackbourn , Evans instead emphasized the "self-mobilization from below" of key sociopolitical groups, as well as

620-455: A commercial household industry in the historical region of Macedonia has been found at the Olynthus site. When the city was destroyed by Philip II in 348 BCE, artifacts were preserved in the houses. Loomweights were found in many houses, enough to produce cloth to meet the needs of the household, but some of the houses contained more loomweights, enough for commercial production, and one of

744-483: A contemporary trend that opposed the previous "great man" theory of history, Evans was a member of a group of young British historians who in the 1970s sought to examine German history during the German Empire "from below". These scholars highlighted "the importance of the grass-roots of politics and the everyday life and experience of ordinary people". "History is about people, and their relationships. It's about

868-568: A controversy surrounding the historical work and theories of German historians Ernst Nolte , Joachim Fest , Andreas Hillgruber , Michael Stürmer , Hagen Schulze , Imanuel Geiss and Klaus Hildebrand , all of whom Evans considered German apologists attempting to white-wash the German past. Evans' views on the Historikerstreit were set forth in his 1989 book, In Hitler's Shadow . In that book, Evans took issue with Nolte's acceptance of

992-404: A conventional loom, continuous weft thread is carried on a pirn , in a shuttle that passes through the shed. A handloom weaver could propel the shuttle by throwing it from side to side with the aid of a picking stick. The "picking" on a power loom is done by rapidly hitting the shuttle from each side using an overpick or underpick mechanism controlled by cams 80–250 times a minute. When a pirn

1116-854: A country torn apart by the First World War , the terms of the Treaty of Versailles , hyperinflation and the Great Depression moved towards an increasingly authoritarian solution. The book explains in detail Adolf Hitler 's appointment as Chancellor in January 1933 and how the Nazis transformed Germany into a one party dictatorship. The first volume featured highly favourable words of praise from Evans's friend Ian Kershaw on its cover. The second volume, The Third Reich in Power, 1933–1939: How

1240-414: A dobby mechanism, where the healds are raised according to pegs inserted into a revolving drum. Where a complex design is required, the healds are raised by harness cords attached to a Jacquard machine. Every time the harness (the heddles) moves up or down, an opening ( shed ) is made between the threads of warp, through which the pick is inserted. Traditionally the weft thread is inserted by a shuttle. On

1364-677: A long time to come." Ed Ericson says: Evans masterfully interweaves testimony that has come to light in the intervening decades with learned judgments from hundreds of authors to create a balanced and thoughtful narrative. This book, therefore, will assuredly become the definitive work on The Third Reich at War. The first volume, The Coming of the Third Reich: How the Nazis Destroyed Democracy and Seized Power in Germany (published by Penguin in 2003), shows how

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1488-518: A member of the Warburg banking family . Weaving Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth . Other methods are knitting , crocheting , felting , and braiding or plaiting . The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft , woof, or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects

1612-479: A partner in 1798 and served as a Hamburg Senator from 1821. He eventually succeeded his brother-in-law Seyler as head of Berenberg Bank, and was in turn succeeded as head of the company by his own son Johann Heinrich Gossler (III), who also served as consul-general of Hawaii . The latter's brother Hermann Gossler was a lawyer and senator and served as First Mayor and President of the Senate , i.e. head of state of

1736-595: A period of relative peace; Europe became overpopulated. Poor weather led to a series of poor harvests and starvation. There was great loss of life in the Hundred Years War . Then in 1346, Europe was struck with the Black Death and the population was reduced by up to a half. Arable land was labour-intensive and sufficient workers no longer could be found. Land prices dropped, and land was sold and put to sheep pasture. Traders from Florence and Bruges bought

1860-631: A piece of cloth woven from hemp was found in burial F. 7121 at the Çatalhöyük site, suggested to be from around 7000 BCE Further finds come from the Neolithic civilisation preserved in the pile dwellings in Switzerland. Another extant fragment from the Neolithic was found in Fayum , at a site dated to about 5000 BCE. This fragment is woven at about 12 threads by 9 threads per centimetre in

1984-957: A plain weave. Flax was the predominant fibre in Egypt at this time (3600 BCE) and had continued popularity in the Nile Valley , though wool became the primary fibre used in other cultures around 2000 BCE. The oldest-known weavings in North America come from the Windover Archaeological Site in Florida . Dating from 4900 to 6500 BCE and made from plant fibres, the Windover hunter-gatherers produced "finely crafted" twined and plain weave textiles. Eighty-seven pieces of fabric were found associated with 37 burials. Researchers have identified seven different weaves in

2108-458: A powerful witness in Lipstadt's ultimately successful defence. In his expert witness report he wrote: Not one of [Irving's] books, speeches or articles, not one paragraph, not one sentence in any of them, can be taken on trust as an accurate representation of its historical subject. All of them are completely worthless as history, because Irving cannot be trusted anywhere, in any of them, to give

2232-473: A regression to the outmoded great man theory of history. For his part Evans praised Sir Ian Kershaw , who wrote that "The road to Auschwitz was built by hate, but paved with indifference". (It was Evans who first suggested to Kershaw that he undertake to write a biography of Adolf Hitler. ) Evans' In Defence of History defends the discipline of history against postmodernist skepticism of its value. The limitations of our ability to understand and learn from

2356-461: A reliable account of what he is talking or writing about. ... if we mean by historian someone who is concerned to discover the truth about the past, and to give as accurate a representation of it as possible, then Irving is not a historian. The cross-examination of Evans by Irving was noted for the high degree of personal dislike between the two men. Such was the degree of dislike that Irving challenged Evans on very minor points, such as Evans doubting

2480-419: A repetition of these three actions, also called the primary motions of the loom . The warp is divided into two overlapping groups, or lines (most often adjacent threads belonging to the opposite group) that run in two planes, one above another, so the shuttle can be passed between them in a straight motion. Then, the upper group is lowered by the loom mechanism, and the lower group is raised (shedding), allowing

2604-454: A result, many people wove cloth from locally produced fibres. The colonists also used wool, cotton and flax (linen) for weaving, though hemp could be made into serviceable canvas and heavy cloth. They could get one cotton crop each year; until the invention of the cotton gin it was a labour-intensive process to separate the seeds from the fibres. Functional tape, bands, straps, and fringe were woven on box and paddle looms. A plain weave

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2728-528: A richer selection of courses on the histories of other countries in British universities than students from other countries could in their own countries. On 7 February 2019, Evans gave a lecture at Chancellor's Hall in the University of London 's Senate House to launch his new biography of Marxist historian Eric Hobsbawm , A Life in History . At the time, a boycott of the University of London including

2852-528: A sign of the enlargement of cotton thread and textile production. Due to its low cost and portability because of its small size, it was favored among rural weaving communities in countries of Southeast Asia. Weaved textiles in Southeast Asia are mostly made with looms. The foot brace loom is the earliest loom introduced to Southeast Asia from China, having its first appearance in Vietnam. Although, it

2976-474: A single scholar. Reviewer Peter Mansoor says, "The Third Reich at War is a superb piece of scholarship that is likely to emerge as the definitive account of life and death inside Hitler's blood soaked Third Reich." Robert Citino says, "Read together, the three volumes constitute a remarkably comprehensive treatment of the origins, course, and death of the Hitler regime, and are likely to be standard works for

3100-460: A study of the feminist movement in Germany in the first half of the 20th century. It was later published as The Feminist Movement in Germany, 1894–1933 in 1976. Evans followed his study of German feminism by another book, The Feminists (1977), which traced the history of the feminist movement in North America, Australasia and Europe from 1840 to 1920. A theme of both books was the weakness of German middle-class culture and its susceptibility to

3224-514: A weaving machine that would function similar to recently developed cotton-spinning mills in 1784, drawing scorn from critics who said the weaving process was too nuanced to automate. He built a factory at Doncaster and obtained a series of patents between 1785 and 1792. In 1788, his brother Major John Cartwight built Revolution Mill at Retford (named for the centenary of the Glorious Revolution ). In 1791, he licensed his loom to

3348-515: A wooden draw-loom or pattern loom was used. This loom would require two or three weavers and was usually operated by men. There were also other smaller looms, such as the waist loom, that could be operated by a single woman and were usually used domestically. Sericulture and silk weaving spread to Korea by 200 BCE, to Khotan by 50 CE, and to Japan by about 300 CE. The pit-treadle loom may have originated in India though most authorities establish

3472-407: Is sized in a starch mixture for smoother running. The loom warped (loomed or dressed) by passing the sized warp threads through two or more heddles attached to harnesses. The power weavers loom is warped by separate workers. Most looms used for industrial purposes have a machine that ties new warps threads to the waste of previously used warps threads, while still on the loom, then an operator rolls

3596-409: Is being translated into Dutch, Spanish, German, Greek, Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Portuguese and Italian. He has written a biography on the historian Eric Hobsbawm entitled Eric Hobsbawm: A Life in History . From 2013 to 2018 he was principal investigator in a £1.6 million Leverhulme Programme Grant on conspiracy theories and is preparing work based on the findings of the project. In 2008, Evans

3720-459: Is cotton that is interwoven with threads made of different materials. Brunei is famous for its Jong Sarat, a cloth usually used in traditional weddings, uses silver and gold threads interwoven usually with cotton threads. Similarly, Indonesia has the Songket, also used in traditional weddings, which also utilizes gold and silver wrapped thread to create elaborate designs on their weaved textiles. On

3844-437: Is depleted, it is ejected from the shuttle and replaced with the next pirn held in a battery attached to the loom. Multiple shuttle boxes allow more than one shuttle to be used. Each can carry a different colour which allows banding across the loom. The rapier-type weaving machines do not have shuttles, they propel cut lengths of weft by means of small grippers or rapiers that pick up the filling thread and carry it halfway across

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3968-526: Is reflected in the wool towns of eastern England; Norwich , Bury St Edmunds and Lavenham being good examples. Wool was a political issue. The supply of thread has always limited the output of a weaver. About that time, the spindle method of spinning was replaced by the great wheel and soon after the treadle-driven spinning wheel . The loom remained the same but with the increased volume of thread it could be operated continuously. The 14th century saw considerable flux in population. The 13th century had been

4092-460: Is the author of eighteen books, including his three-volume The Third Reich Trilogy (2003–2008). Evans was Regius Professor of History at the University of Cambridge from 2008 until he retired in 2014, and President of Cambridge's Wolfson College from 2010 to 2017. He has been Provost of Gresham College in London since 2014. Evans was appointed Knight Bachelor for services to scholarship in

4216-433: Is the first historian to have to apply for the post and be interviewed by a Board of Electors, including Cambridge's Vice-Chancellor, Alison Richard , and representatives of the history faculty and the university, as well as external assessors from Yale, Harvard, Oxford and London. The board selected a shortlist of four, each of whom was asked to give a presentation to the entire Cambridge history faculty. The shortlist of four

4340-598: The Penguin History of Europe . It has been widely reviewed. Gerard De Groot, writing in The Times , commented that the book "chronicles a turbulent and confusing century with wonderful clarity and verve...in one great canvas of immense detail and beauty ... transnational history at its finest." Dominic Sandbrook, in The Sunday Times , described it as "dazzlingly erudite and entertaining". It has been, or

4464-472: The The principal parts of a loom are the frame, the warp-beam or weavers beam, the cloth-roll (apron bar), the heddles, and their mounting, the reed . The warp-beam is a wooden or metal cylinder on the back of the loom on which the warp is delivered. The threads of the warp extend in parallel order from the warp-beam to the front of the loom where they are attached to the cloth-roll. Each thread or group of threads of

4588-440: The 2012 Birthday Honours . Richard Evans was born at Woodford , Essex , to Ieuan Trefor Evans and Evelyn (Jones) Evans, who both came from Wales . He was educated at Forest School , Jesus College, Oxford (MA), and St Antony's College, Oxford (DPhil). In a 2004 interview, he stated that frequent visits to Wales during his childhood inspired both an interest in history and a sense of "otherness". He said one reason that he

4712-595: The Commissar Order as a legitimate military order; with Nolte's argument that the Einsatzgruppen massacres of Ukrainian Jews were a justifiable "preventive security" response to Soviet partisan attacks; his description (citing Viktor Suvorov ) of Operation Barbarossa as a "preventative war" forced on Hitler by an impending Soviet attack; and his complaints that much scholarship on the Shoah expressed

4836-540: The Inca Empire of the Andes, both men and women produced textiles. Women mostly did their weaving using backstrap looms to make small pieces of cloth and vertical frame and single- heddle looms for larger pieces. Men used upright looms. The Inca elite valued cumbi , which was a fine tapestry-woven textile produced on upright looms. The elite often offered cumbi as gifts of reciprocity to lords (other elite) in

4960-468: The Jewish Agency would support the war effort constituted " Jewish declaration of war " on Germany that justified the pre-emptive internment of Jews in concentration camps. In his 1989 book, In Hitler's Shadow , Evans also criticised the intentionalist theories of Hillgruber and Hildebrand. and criticized Stürmer's excessive focus on political history and overlooking of social conditions, as

5084-523: The Kingdom of Prussia . Several family members served as senators in Hamburg in the 19th and early 20th century, and Hermann Gossler was head of state in 1874. Richard J. Evans describes the family as one of Hamburg's "great business families." The Gossler Islands in Antarctica are named in honour of the family. The family's earliest known ancestor Claus Gossler (1630–1713), who was most likely

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5208-515: The Normans , they took the technology to Northern Italy and then the rest of Europe. Silk fabric production was reintroduced towards the end of this period and the more sophisticated silk weaving techniques were applied to the other staples. The weaver worked at home and marketed his cloth at fairs . Warp-weighted looms were commonplace in Europe before the introduction of horizontal looms in

5332-571: The Senate House , organised by the Independent Workers' Union of Great Britain and supported by a number of high-profile politicians, journalists and academics, including John McDonnell , Owen Jones , Ken Loach and David Graeber in order to pressure University of London to bring their outsourced maintenance staff back in house, was in place. Claiming it was hypocritical breaking a boycott in support of workers' rights to give

5456-547: The cholera outbreak in Hamburg in 1892, which he concluded was caused by a failure in the medical system to safeguard against such an event. Another study in German social history was Tales from the German Underworld (1998), where Evans traced the life stories of four German criminals in the late 19th century, namely a homeless woman, a forger, a prostitute and a conman. In Rituals of Retribution , Evans traced

5580-404: The warp which runs longitudinally and the weft (older woof ) that crosses it. ( Weft is an Old English word meaning "that which is woven"; compare leave and left . ) One warp thread is called an end and one weft thread is called a pick . The warp threads are held taut and in parallel to each other, typically in a loom. There are many types of looms. Weaving can be summarized as

5704-408: The "Jewish Question" on the "back-burner" until after the war. Evans chose to accept the interpretation of the memo put forward by Eberhard Jäckel in the 1970s; Irving chose to interpret the memo literally and taunted Evans by saying, "It is a terrible problem, is it not that we are faced with this tantalizing plate of crumbs and morsels of what should have provided the final smoking gun, and nowhere

5828-430: The 10th and 11th centuries. Weaving became an urban craft and to regulate their trade, craftsmen applied to establish a guild . These initially were merchant guilds , but developed into separate trade guilds for each skill. The cloth merchant who was a member of a city's weavers guild was allowed to sell cloth; he acted as a middleman between the tradesmen weavers and the purchaser. The trade guilds controlled quality and

5952-552: The Empire. In regions under direct control of the Inca, special artisans produced cumbi for the elite. Women who created cumbi in these regions were called acllas or mamaconas and men were called cumbicamayos . Andean textile weavings were of practical, symbolic, religious, and ceremonial importance and used as currency, tribute, and as a determinant of social class and rank. Sixteenth-century Spanish colonists were impressed by both

6076-560: The European Continent" (2009, an expanded version of his Inaugural Lecture as Regius Professor), he explored the reasons why so many British historians have made such major contributions to the historical understanding of other European countries. The Third Reich in History and Memory (2015) is a collection of 28 articles and review essays on modern German history published since the turn of the century. In 2016, Evans published The Pursuit of Power: Europe 1815–1914 , volume 7 in

6200-503: The Grimshaw brothers of Manchester , but their Knott Mill burnt down the following year (possibly a case of arson). Edmund Cartwight was granted a reward of £10,000 by Parliament for his efforts in 1809. However, success in power-weaving also required improvements by others, including H. Horrocks of Stockport . Only during the two decades after about 1805, did power-weaving take hold. At that time there were 250,000 hand weavers in

6324-529: The Hamburg council) in 1739. Johann Eybert Gossler was the father of, among others, the banker Johann Hinrich Gossler (1738–1790) and Johann Jacob Gossler (1758–1812), who served as a French colonel during the Napoleonic Wars and who died during the French invasion of Russia . The banker Johann Hinrich Gossler (1738–1790) started as an apprentice at Berenberg Bank ; after marrying the sole heir to

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6448-836: The History Channel which examined the Valkyrie bomb plot against Hitler in July 1944. He writes reviews of history books for the London Review of Books , the Times Literary Supplement and The Guardian , as well as historical reflections on recent events for American magazines and websites, including Foreign Policy , The Nation , and Vox . Evans has been co-editor of the Journal of Contemporary History since 2000, and has also served as Deputy Chair of

6572-847: The Holocaust . Lipstadt further accused Irving of "distorting evidence and manipulating documents to serve his own purposes...[as well as] skewing documents and misrepresenting data in order to reach historically untenable conclusions, particularly those that exonerate Hitler." Evans acted as an expert witness for the defence in the case. Starting in the autumn of 1997, Evans, along with Thomas Skelton-Robinson and Nik Wachsmann , two of his PhD students, closely examined Irving's work. They found instances in which he had used forged documents, disregarded contrary evidence, selectively quoted historical documents out of context, and mis-cited historical records, thus misrepresenting historical evidence in order to support his prejudices. Evans subsequently proved to be

6696-670: The Nazis Won Over the Hearts and Minds of a Nation (published by Penguin in 2005), covers the years of Nazi rule between 1933 and 1939. The final chapter examines the road to the Second World War, but the real focus is on life inside the Third Reich. Evans allows small stories of key individuals to illustrate many of the key social, economic and cultural events of the period. Richard Overy described this installment of

6820-988: The Spoliation Advisory Panel, a UK government non-departmental public body formed to make recommendations to the Secretary of State for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport on the restitution of cultural objects looted during the Nazi era. He has been a judge of the Wolfson History Prize, the UK's richest history book award, for over twenty years. In 2011, Evans became involved in a polemical exchange of letters with Peter Baldwin after agreeing with Leif Jerram, who wrote in Cosmopolitan Islanders in 2009 that students in Britain could find

6944-536: The UK. Textile manufacture was one of the leading sectors in the British Industrial Revolution , but weaving was a comparatively late sector to be mechanised. The loom became semi-automatic in 1842 with Kenworthy and Bulloughs Lancashire Loom . The various innovations took weaving from a home-based artisan activity (labour-intensive and man-powered) to steam driven factories process. A large metal manufacturing industry grew to produce

7068-549: The appeal of Holocaust denial. Evans is probably best known to the general public in the role of an expert witness for the defence in the high-profile libel case of David Irving against the American historian Deborah Lipstadt in 2000, Irving v Penguin Books and Lipstadt . Lipstadt was sued for libel by Irving, after she referred to him as a "Holocaust denier" and "an ardent follower of Adolf Hitler" in her 1993 book, Denying

7192-649: The appeal of nationalism. Evans argued that both liberalism and feminism failed in Germany for those reasons despite flourishing elsewhere in the Western world . Evans' main interest is social history , and he is much influenced by the Annales school . He largely agrees with Fischer that 19th-century German social development paved the way for the rise of the Third Reich , but Evans takes pains to point out that many other possibilities could have happened. For Evans,

7316-425: The boiling water. Usually this task was done by girls aged eight to twelve, while the more complex jobs were given to older women. They would then create a silk thread, which could vary in thickness and strength from the unwound cocoons. After the reeling of the silk, the silk would be dyed before the weaving process began. There were many different looms and tools for weaving. For high quality and intricate designs,

7440-410: The characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom , a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving , back strap loom , or other techniques that can be done without looms. The way

7564-752: The city-republic, in 1874. In 1880 Johann (known as John) Berenberg Gossler , longtime head of Berenberg Bank and son of Johann Heinrich Gossler (III), was granted the name Berenberg-Gossler by the Hamburg Senate. He was ennobled by Prussia in 1889 and granted the title of Baron by the Prussian king in 1910; the ennoblement was controversial in the strictly republican city-republic of Hamburg, where nobility did not exist and where (foreign) nobles were traditionally barred from holding political office and even from owning property; according to Richard J. Evans , "the wealthy of nineteenth-century Hamburg were for

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7688-587: The college when Baroness Blackstone left suddenly to become Tony Blair 's first higher education minister. On 27 January 2010 he was elected to the position of President of Wolfson College, Cambridge , serving the statutory seven-year term of office until retiring from the post on 30 September 2017. During this period he focused on building up the college as a centre of contemporary culture, with art exhibitions by Richard Deacon and Anthony Green, and talks by Martin Amis and Neil MacGregor , among many others. In 2014 he

7812-485: The company, Elisabeth Berenberg (1749–1822), he was named a partner in 1769 by his father-in-law Johann Berenberg and became the bank's sole owner upon the latter's death in 1772. In 1788 Gossler accepted his own son-in-law L.E. Seyler as a partner. Seyler was married to Anna Henriette Gossler, the eldest daughter of Johann Hinrich Gossler and Elisabeth Berenberg, and became head of Berenberg Bank in 1790. Johann Hinrich Gossler's son Johann Heinrich Gossler (II) became

7936-447: The defence. Evans' involvement in the trial was included in the 2016 film Denial , in which he was played by British actor John Sessions . Between 2003 and 2008, Evans published a three-volume history of the Third Reich. Drawing on years of experience as a leading scholar of German history , Evans produced what some historians call the most extensive and comprehensive history of the rise and fall of Hitler's regime ever produced by

8060-577: The discovery of mauveine in 1856, and its popularity in fashion. Researchers continued to explore the chemical potential of coal tar waste from the growing number of gas works in Britain and Europe, creating an entirely new sector in the chemical industry . The invention in France of the Jacquard loom , patented in 1804, enabled complicated patterned cloths to be woven, by using punched cards to determine which threads of coloured yarn should appear on

8184-478: The example of Hamburg’s cholera epidemics and applying statistical methods to the exploration of social inequality in an industrializing society, and Rituals of Retribution (1996), a study of capital punishment in German history applying structural anthropological concepts to the rituals of public execution up to the mid-19th century and exploring the politics of the death penalty until its abolition by East Germany in 1987. In Death in Hamburg , Evans studied

8308-622: The experiences of people and the workings of the institutions of power" in Germany, criticized the third volume's discussion of occupied Poland and the USSR as oversimplified and sometimes inaccurate. Walter Reich , former Director of the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum in Washington, D.C. , states about the third-volume of the trilogy, The Third Reich at War , "If any work of accurate history has

8432-407: The fabric. One kind of fabric had 26 strands per inch (10 strands per centimetre). There were also weaves using two-strand and three-strand wefts . A round bag made from twine was found, as well as matting . The yarn was probably made from palm leaves. Cabbage palm , saw palmetto and scrub palmetto are all common in the area, and would have been so 8,000 years ago. Evidence of weaving as

8556-405: The fairness of a 1936 German election in which the Nazi Party (the only legal political party in Germany at the time) received 98.8% of the vote (in a rigged election ). A subject that drew Irving and Evans deep into debate was a memo by the Chief of the Reich Chancellery Hans Lammers to the Reich Justice Minister Franz Schlegelberger in which Lammers wrote that Hitler ordered him to put

8680-401: The fell progressed. Weaving became simpler when the warp was sized . Around the 4th century BCE , the cultivation of cotton and the knowledge of its spinning and weaving in Meroë reached a high level. Export of textiles was one of the main sources of wealth for Kush . Aksumite King Ezana boasted in his inscription that he destroyed large cotton plantations in Meroë during his conquest of

8804-467: The find, the weavers of the Upper Palaeolithic were manufacturing a variety of cordage types, produced plaited basketry and sophisticated twined and plain woven cloth. The artifacts include imprints in clay and burned remnants of cloth. The oldest known textiles found in the Americas are remnants of six finely woven textiles and cordage found in Guitarrero Cave , Peru . The weavings, made from plant fibres, are dated between 10,100 and 9080 BCE. In 2013

8928-488: The history of capital punishment in Germany , and using the ideas of Michel Foucault , Philippe Ariès and Norbert Elias as his guide argued that opposition to the death penalty was strongest when liberalism was in the ascendancy, and support for capital punishment coincided when the right was in the ascendancy. Thus, in Evans' view, capital punishment in Germany was never a mere matter of law being disinterestedly applied but

9052-461: The household income while staying at home. Women would usually weave simpler designs within the household while men would be in charge of the weaving of more intricate and complex pieces of clothing. The process of sericulture and weaving emphasized the idea that men and women should work together instead of women being subordinate to men. Weaving became an integral part of Chinese women's social identity. Several rituals and myths were associated with

9176-464: The houses was adjacent to the agora and contained three shops where many coins were found. It is probable that such homes were engaged in commercial textile manufacture. Weaving was known in all the great civilisations, but no clear line of causality has been established. Early looms required two people to create the shed and one person to pass through the filling. Early looms wove a fixed length of cloth, but later ones allowed warp to be wound out as

9300-634: The invention in China. Pedals were added to operate heddles . By the Middle Ages such devices also appeared in Persia , Sudan, Egypt and possibly the Arabian Peninsula, where "the operator sat with his feet in a pit below a fairly low-slung loom". In 700 CE, horizontal looms and vertical looms could be found in many parts of Asia, Africa and Europe. In Africa, the rich dressed in cotton while

9424-463: The late 18th century the family has been widely regarded as one of the two most prominent Hanseatic families of Hamburg, alongside the closely related Amsinck family . A branch of the Gossler family was granted the name Berenberg-Gossler by the Hamburg Senate in 1880 and was later—controversially in the republic of Hamburg, which did not recognise the concept of nobility —conferred baronial rank by

9548-442: The loom where another rapier picks it up and pulls it the rest of the way. Some carry the filling yarns across the loom at rates in excess of 2,000 metres per minute. Manufacturers such as Picanol have reduced the mechanical adjustments to a minimum, and control all the functions through a computer with a graphical user interface . Other types use compressed air to insert the pick. They are all fast, versatile and quiet. The warp

9672-572: The looms, firms such as Howard & Bullough of Accrington , and Tweedales and Smalley and Platt Brothers . Most power weaving took place in weaving sheds, in small towns circling Greater Manchester away from the cotton spinning area. The earlier combination mills where spinning and weaving took place in adjacent buildings became rarer. Wool and worsted weaving took place in West Yorkshire and particular Bradford , here there were large factories such as Lister's or Drummond's, where all

9796-476: The modernity of National Socialism. In the 1980s, Evans organized ten international workshops on modern German social history at the University of East Anglia that did a good deal to refine these ideas, to pioneer research in this new historical field and, in six collections of papers, present it to an Anglophone readership. Among Evans' major research works are Death in Hamburg (1987), a study of class conflict and liberal government in 19th-century Germany using

9920-472: The most part stern republicans, abhorring titles, refusing to accord any deference to the Prussian nobility, and determinedly loyal to their urban background and mercantile heritage." One of Baron Johann von Berenberg-Gossler's sons, John von Berenberg-Gossler , served as a Hamburg senator 1908–1920 and as German Ambassador to Rome 1920–1921. John's younger brother, Baron Cornelius von Berenberg-Gossler , succeeded his father as head of Berenberg Bank in 1913. He

10044-438: The old and new threads back on the warp beam . The harnesses are controlled by cams, dobbies or a Jacquard head. The raising and lowering sequence of warp threads in various sequences gives rise to many possible weave structures: Both warp and weft can be visible in the final product. By spacing the warp more closely, it can completely cover the weft that binds it, giving a warp faced textile such as rep weave. Conversely, if

10168-611: The other hand, Cambodia has the Ikat, which utilizes the method of dyeing thunks of thread tied with fiber to create patterns while weaving. In addition to using threads, weavers of Myanmar, Thailand, and Vietnam combine silk and other fibers with cotton for weaving. While in Laos, natural materials are used, like roots, tree bark, leaves, flowers, and seeds, but for dyeing the textile that has been already weaved. These countries in Southeast Asia have more weaving traditions but these techniques are

10292-497: The past notwithstanding, it is still possible, he argues, to reconstruct past events. Evans suggests that the spread in the 1980s and 1990s of post-modernist theories, which declare that history is solely the construct of the historian and depict the rationalist tradition of the West as a form of oppression, was not necessarily left-wing or progressive, for by denying the possibility of accessing past facts, it had also done much to increase

10416-424: The peasant class. Silk weaving became a specialized job requiring specific technology and equipment that was completed domestically within households. Although most of the silk weaving was done within the confines of the home and family, there were some specialized workshops that hired skilled silk weavers as well. These workshops took care of the weaving process, although the raising of the silkworms and reeling of

10540-421: The perennial question of 'how much free will do people have in building their own lives, and making a future", Evans has said. He says he supported the creation of a "new school of people's history", which was a result of a trend that "has taken place across a whole range of historical subjects, political opinions, and methodological approaches and has been expressed in many different ways". In 1978, as editor of

10664-1068: The poorer wore wool. By the 12th century it had come to Europe either from the Byzantium or Moorish Spain where the mechanism was raised higher above the ground on a more substantial frame. In the Philippines , numerous pre-colonial weaving traditions exist among different ethnic groups . They used various plant fibers, mainly abacá or banana , but also including tree cotton , buri palm (locally known as buntal ) and other palms, various grasses (like amumuting and tikog ), and barkcloth . The oldest evidence of weaving traditions are Neolithic stone tools used for preparing barkcloth found in archeological sites in Sagung Cave of southern Palawan and Arku Cave of Peñablanca, Cagayan . The latter has been dated to around 1255–605 BCE. Other countries in Southeast Asia have their own extensive history of weaving traditions. Weaving

10788-433: The popular ones. To create threads of cotton for weaving, spindle whorls were commonly used in Southeast Asia. It is made from either clay, stone or wood and has a variety of appearances regarding its shape and size. Spindle whorls were said to emerge in Southeast Asia along with expansion of rice agriculture from Yangtse, China. Additionally, its increasing appearance in certain regions of Southeast Asia back then may be also

10912-645: The power loom led to disquiet and industrial unrest. Well known protests movements such as the Luddites and the Chartists had handloom weavers amongst their leaders. In the early 19th-century power weaving became viable. Richard Guest in 1823 made a comparison of the productivity of power and handloom weavers: A very good Hand Weaver, a man twenty-five or thirty years of age, will weave two pieces of nine-eighths shirting per week, each twenty-four yards long, and containing one hundred and five shoots of weft in an inch,

11036-558: The process of weaving. There was thus a shortage of thread or a surplus of weaving capacity. The opening of the Bridgewater Canal in June 1761 allowed cotton to be brought into Manchester, an area rich in fast flowing streams that could be used to power machinery. Spinning was the first to be mechanised ( spinning jenny , spinning mule ), and this led to limitless thread for the weaver. Edmund Cartwright first proposed building

11160-467: The processes took place. Both men and women with weaving skills emigrated, and took the knowledge to their new homes in New England, to places like Pawtucket and Lowell . Woven ' grey cloth ' was then sent to the finishers where it was bleached, dyed and printed. Natural dyes were originally used, with synthetic dyes coming in the second half of the 19th century. A demand for new dyes followed

11284-452: The promotion of silk weaving, especially as a symbol of female power. Weaving contributed to the balance between men and women's economic contributions and had many economic benefits. There were many paths into the occupation of weaver. Women usually married into the occupation, belonged to a family of weavers and or lived in a location that had ample weather conditions that allowed for the process of silk weaving. Weavers usually belonged to

11408-511: The quality and quantity of textiles produced by the Inca Empire. Some of the techniques and designs are still in use in the 21st century. Whereas European cloth-making generally created ornamentation through "suprastructural" means—by adding embroidery, ribbons, brocade, dyeing, and other elements onto the finished woven textile—pre-Columbian Andean weavers created elaborate cloth by focusing on "structural" designs involving manipulation of

11532-413: The reed of the cloth being a forty-four, Bolton count, and the warp and weft forty hanks to the pound, A Steam Loom Weaver, fifteen years of age, will in the same time weave seven similar pieces. Richard J. Evans Sir Richard John Evans FRSL FRHistS FBA FLSW (born September 29, 1947) is a British historian of 19th- and 20th-century Europe with a focus on Germany. He

11656-546: The region. The Indigenous people of the Americas wove textiles of cotton throughout tropical and subtropical America and in the South American Andes of wool from camelids , primarily domesticated llamas and alpacas . Cotton and the camelids were both domesticated by about 4,000 BCE. American weavers are "credited with independently inventing nearly every non-mechanized technique known today." In

11780-410: The shuttle to pass in the opposite direction, also in a straight motion. Repeating these actions forms a fabric mesh but without beating-up, the final distance between the adjacent wefts would be irregular and far too large. The secondary motions of the loom are the: The tertiary motions of the loom are the stop motions: to stop the loom in the event of a thread break. The two main stop motions are

11904-404: The silk remained work for peasant families. The silk that was woven in workshops rather than homes were of higher quality, since the workshop could afford to hire the best weavers. These weavers were usually men who operated more complicated looms, such as the wooden draw-loom. This created a competitive market of silk weavers. The quality and ease of the weaving process depended on the silk that

12028-399: The third volume for The Times , best-selling historian Antony Beevor writes: "With this third volume, Richard Evans has accomplished a masterpiece of historical scholarship ... [He] has produced the best and most up-to-date synthesis of the huge work carried out on the subject over the past decades." However, Timothy Snyder , while praising Evans's "vertical method [of] weav[ing] together

12152-413: The threads by leaning backwards and forward. The body tension loom was developed from the foot-brace loom to eventually accommodate weaving of larger and wider cloth types. The predominant fibre in Europe during the medieval period was wool , followed by linen and nettlecloth for the lower classes. Cotton was introduced to Sicily and Spain in the 9th century. When Sicily was captured by

12276-524: The time of 1685 challenged the English weavers of cotton, woollen and worsted cloth, who subsequently learned the Huguenots' superior techniques. Colonial America relied heavily on Great Britain for manufactured goods of all kinds. British policy was to encourage the production of raw materials in colonies and discourage manufacturing. The Wool Act 1699 restricted the export of colonial wool. As

12400-402: The training needed before an artisan could call himself a weaver. By the 13th century, an organisational change took place, and a system of putting out was introduced. The cloth merchant purchased the wool and provided it to the weaver, who sold his produce back to the merchant. The merchant controlled the rates of pay and economically dominated the cloth industry. The merchants' prosperity

12524-545: The trilogy as "magisterial". The third volume, The Third Reich at War: How the Nazis Led Germany from Conquest to Disaster (published by Penguin in 2008), looks at major developments from 1939 to 1945, including the key battles of the Second World War, a vivid, moving and detailed account of the mass murder enacted during the Holocaust and Hitler's dramatic downfall in Berlin in 1945. In an October 2008 review of

12648-405: The uplands weavers worked from home on a putting-out system . The wooden looms of that time might be broad or narrow; broad looms were those too wide for the weaver to pass the shuttle through the shed, so that the weaver needed an expensive assistant (often an apprentice ). This ceased to be necessary after John Kay invented the flying shuttle in 1733. The shuttle and the picking stick sped up

12772-460: The upper side of the cloth. The jacquard allowed individual control of each warp thread, row by row without repeating, so very complex patterns were suddenly feasible. Samples exist showing calligraphy, and woven copies of engravings. Jacquards could be attached to handlooms or powerlooms. A distinction can be made between the role and lifestyle and status of a handloom weaver, and that of the power loom weaver and craft weaver. The perceived threat of

12896-483: The values of the 19th-century German middle class contained the already germinating seeds of National Socialism . Evans studied under Fischer in Hamburg in 1970 and 1971 but came to disagree with the " Bielefeld School " of historians, who argued for the Sonderweg thesis that saw the roots of Germany's political development in the first half of the 20th century in a " failed bourgeois revolution " in 1848. Following

13020-464: The views of "biased" Jewish historians. Evans characterized Nolte's statements as crossing the line into Holocaust denial and he singled out Nolte's rationalization that since the victors write history , the only reason why the Third Reich is seen as evil is because it lost the war. Evans also denounced, as an attempt to justify the Holocaust , Nolte's claim that Chaim Weizmann 's letter of 3 September 1939 to Neville Chamberlain , promising that

13144-434: The warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave , satin weave , or twill weave . Woven cloth can be plain or classic (in one colour or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic design. In general, weaving involves using a loom to interlace two sets of threads at right angles to each other:

13268-462: The warp and weft of the fabric itself. Andeans used "tapestry techniques; double-, triple- and quadruple-cloth techniques; gauze weaves; warp-patterned weaves; discontinuous warp or scaffold weaves; and plain weaves" among many other techniques, in addition to the suprastructural techniques listed above. The weaving of silk from silkworm cocoons has been known in China since about 3500 BCE. Silk that

13392-545: The warp is spread out, the weft can slide down and completely cover the warp, giving a weft faced textile, such as a tapestry or a Kilim rug. There are a variety of loom styles for hand weaving and tapestry. There are some indications that weaving was already known in the Paleolithic Era, as early as 27,000 years ago. An indistinct textile impression has been found at the Dolní Věstonice site. According to

13516-401: The warp passes through an opening (eye) in a heddle. The warp threads are separated by the heddles into two or more groups, each controlled and automatically drawn up and down by the motion of the heddles. In the case of small patterns the movement of the heddles is controlled by "cams" which move up the heddles by means of a frame called a harness; in larger patterns the heddles are controlled by

13640-525: The whole problem is. Every time there is a euphemism, Mr. Irving ... or a camouflage piece of statement or language about Madagascar, you want to treat it as the literal truth, because it serves your purpose of trying to exculpate Hitler. That is part of ... the way you manipulate and distort the documents." In a 2001 interview, Evans described to the Canadian columnist Robert Fulford his impression of Irving after being cross-examined by him as: "He [Irving]

13764-405: The whole way through the archives do we find even one item that we do not have to interpret or read between the lines of, but we do have in the same chain of evidence documents which ... quite clearly specifically show Hitler intervening in the other sense?" In response, Evans stated, "No, I do not accept that at all. It is because you want to interpret euphemisms as being literal, and that is what

13888-538: The wool, then sheep-owning landlords started to weave wool outside the jurisdiction of the city and trade guilds. The weavers started by working in their own homes then production was moved into purpose-built buildings. The working hours and the amount of work were regulated. The putting-out system had been replaced by a factory system . The migration of the Huguenot Weavers , Calvinists fleeing from religious persecution in mainland Europe, to Britain around

14012-543: Was a bit like a dim student who didn't listen. If he didn't get the answer he wanted, he just repeated the question." His findings and his account of the trial were published in his 2001 book Lying About Hitler: History, Holocaust, and the David Irving Trial , which was published as Telling Lies About Hitler in the United States in 2002. The High Court rejected Irving's libel suit and awarded costs to

14136-566: Was appointed Regius Professor of Modern History at the University of Cambridge (in 2010 the word "Modern" was removed from the title by royal decree). The post is a royal appointment in the gift of the Prime Minister of the day and dates back to 1724. Previous holders of the title have included John Dalberg-Acton (1895), Herbert Butterfield (1963), Geoffrey Elton (1983), Patrick Collinson (1988) and Quentin Skinner (1998). Evans

14260-456: Was appointed Provost of Gresham College , in the City of London , an institution founded in 1597 to provide free lectures to Londoners. There are now over 2,000 lectures on the college's website and the 130 lectures a year are all live-streamed. Evans has appeared regularly on a number of TV documentaries related to Adolf Hitler and the Third Reich. He recently appeared on a major TV documentary on

14384-553: Was drawn to the study of modern German history in the late 1960s was his identification of parallels between the Vietnam War and German imperialism. He admired the work of Fritz Fischer , whom he credits with inspiring him to study modern German history. Evans first established his academic reputation with his publications on the German Empire . In the early 1970s, Evans travelled to Germany to research his dissertation,

14508-412: Was intricately woven and dyed, showing a well developed craft, has been found in a Chinese tomb dating back to 2700 BCE. Silk weaving in China was an intricate process that was very involved. Men and women, usually from the same family, had their own roles in the weaving process. The actual work of weaving was done by both men and women. Women were often weavers since it was a way they could contribute to

14632-457: Was introduced to Southeast Asia at the same time rice agriculture was introduced from China. As it was introduced alongside rice farming, weaving is more popular in communities where rice is being farmed as compared to communities that rely on hunting, gathering, and animal farming. Each country has its own distinctive weaving traditions or has absorbed weaving traditions from their neighboring countries. The most common material used for weaving

14756-410: Was only used in certain areas of Vietnam, Laos, Indonesia, and Cambodia. Another loom that is widely used across Southeast Asia is the ground level body tension loom, also known as the belt loom, as a part of it needs to be attached to a belt-like strap on the weaver’s waist to control and hold the tension of the warped threads. It is usually operated at the ground level and the weaver is able to control

14880-476: Was preferred as the added skill and time required to make more complex weaves kept them from common use. Sometimes designs were woven into the fabric but most were added after weaving using wood block prints or embroidery. Before the Industrial Revolution , weaving was a manual craft and wool was the principal staple. In the great wool districts a form of factory system had been introduced but in

15004-428: Was produced by the silk worms. The easiest silk to work with came from breeds of silk worms that spun their cocoons so that it could be unwound in one long strand. The reeling, or unwinding of silk worm cocoons is started by placing the cocoons in boiling water in order to break apart the silk filaments as well as kill the silk worm pupae . Women would then find the end of the strands of silk by sticking their hand into

15128-542: Was rather a form of state power being exercised. In addition, Evans examined such subjects as belief in witchcraft, torture, the last words of the executed, the psychology of mobs, varying forms of execution from the Thirty Years War to the 1980s, profiles of executioners, cruelty, and changing views towards the death penalty. In the 1980s, Evans was a conspicuous figure in the Historikerstreit ,

15252-415: Was succeeded by his son, Baron Heinrich von Berenberg-Gossler in 1932; Heinrich von Berenberg-Gossler also served as consul general of Monaco . The Gossler Islands in Antarctica and Gossler's Park in Hamburg are named for the family. Wilhelm Gossler (1811–1895) was the grandfather of the painter and sculptor Mary Warburg , who was married to the art historian and cultural theorist Aby Warburg ,

15376-453: Was then reduced to two, whom the board interviewed, resulting in the board's recommendation of Evans to the Prime Minister and in the issue of a Royal Warrant for his appointment. As well as serving as Regius Professor, Evans served as chairman of the history faculty from October 2008 to 30 September 2010. Evans is used to combining administration with research. At Birkbeck College, London, where he worked before Cambridge, he acted as Master of

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