130-624: Elgin Cathedral , a historic ruin in Elgin, Moray , northeast Scotland , was dedicated to the Holy Trinity . It was established in 1224 on land granted by King Alexander II and stood outside the burgh of Elgin, close to the River Lossie . It replaced the cathedral at Spynie located 3 kilometres (2 mi) to the north, which was served by a small chapter of eight clerics. By 1226,
260-406: A 19th century Ordnance Survey (OS) town map of Elgin as its base layer and preserves the road layout which has changed little since medieval times. Extraneous detail has been removed but in all other respects, it retains standard mapping proportions and accuracy. The college boundary walls and Ree's data are applied. Although modified over time, three manses still exist—those of Inverkeithny,
390-523: A 9th-century class II Pictish stone , under the High Street in 1823 suggests there may have been an Early Christian presence in the area of the later market, but there is no further evidence of activity before Elgin was created a Royal Burgh in the 12th century. In August 1040, MacBeth's army defeated and killed Duncan I at Bothganowan (Pitgaveny), near Elgin. Elgin is first recorded in a charter of David I in 1151 in which he granted an annuity to
520-480: A charter granted by David I to Dunfermline Abbey in c. 1128. These are the only known details of Gregory with no basis for later assertions that he was a promoted monk in a 'Pictish Church'. After the suppression of Óengus of Moray 's rebellion in 1130, King David must have regarded the continued existence of a bishopric in Moray as essential to the stability of the province. However, the next bishop, William (1152–62)
650-419: A grant from the customs of Inverness was provided. Increasingly, the appropriation of the parish church revenues led to many churches becoming dilapidated and unable to attract educated priests. By the later Middle Ages, the standard of pastoral care outside the main burghs had significantly declined. Bishop John Innes (1407–14) made significant contributions to the cathedral's rebuilding efforts, as evidenced by
780-540: A higher probability of being present.[ In 1488, at Elgin, many canons failed to adhere to the terms of their approved leave of absence, resulting in each of them receiving a formal warning and summons. Despite this, ten canons refused to attend, leading to a deduction of one-seventh of their prebendary income. Much of the workload fell on vicars and a smaller number of permanent canons who were responsible for celebrating high mass, delivering sermons, and organising feast day processions. Seven services were held daily, mostly for
910-458: A period when ambitious clerics would accept positions in other cathedrals. Time spent away from the chanonry was not without permission, as some canons were appointed to be always present while others were allowed to attend on a part-time basis. The dean of Elgin was permanently in attendance; the precentor, chancellor, and treasurer were available for half the year. The non-permanent canons had to attend continuously for three months. However, in 1240,
1040-473: A portion of land that he had secured from a secular clerk specifically for the building of four manses for chaplains. The land, feued from the Brothers of St Lazarus , was situated outside the west wall, on the road to the burgh of Elgin and between two lanes—one of which may have been the proto-Lazarus Wynd (position 26 ). With his death approaching, Pilmuir's terms were that the chaplains should pray for
1170-635: A very agreeable place to live in, notwithstanding its distance, being above 450 measur'd miles [725 km] from London, and more, if we must go by Edinburgh. The cathedral is known as the Lantern of the North. When Bishop Bur wrote to King Robert III , complaining of the wanton destruction done to the building by the King's brother, the Wolf of Badenoch, he describes the cathedral as "the ornament of this district,
1300-502: A wall was built around the cathedral and a keeper's house erected. Mountains of this rubble were cleared by one John Shanks, enabling visitors to view the ornate stonemasonry. Shanks was presented with an ornate snuffbox by the authorities; it is now in Elgin Museum. When Daniel Defoe toured Scotland in 1717, he visited Elgin and said: In this rich country is the city, or town rather, of Elgin; I say city, because in antient time
1430-1209: Is temperate maritime , with cool summers and relatively mild winters due to its proximity to the sea. Rainfall is quite low as it is in the rain shadow of mountains to the west and south-west. Population Males: 10288 Females: 10641 Total: 20929 Age structure (%) 0 – 4 years: 6.35 5 – 15 years: 13.84 16 – 24 years: 9.50 25 – 44 years: 31.15 45 – 64 years: 23.08 65 – 74 years: 8.87 75+ years: 7.21 Religion (%) Church of Scotland: 44.48 Roman Catholic: 5.96 Other Christian: 10.42 Other non-Christian: 1.08 None: 33.10 Did not answer: 4.95 Country of birth (%) Scotland: 83.64 England: 13.13 Wales: 0.94 Other UK: 0.95 Republic of Ireland: 0.21 Other EU: 1.39 Elsewhere: 2.11 Ethnic group (%) White Scottish: 83.64 Other White British: 13.57 Other White: 0.95 White Irish: 0.44 Pakistani: 0.42 Chinese: 0.32 Indian: 0.10 Caribbean: 0.07 African: 0.07 Black Scottish or Other Black: 0.04 Mixed background: 0.17 Other: 0.16 Source: Moray Council from 2001 Census data Elgin's population in 1901
SECTION 10
#17327652852651560-572: Is a Church of Scotland parish church in Dunfermline , Fife , Scotland . The church occupies the site of the ancient chancel and transepts of a large medieval Benedictine abbey, which was confiscated and sacked in 1560 during the Scottish Reformation and permitted to fall into disrepair. Part of the old abbey church continued in use at that time and some parts of the abbey infrastructure still remain. The Benedictine Abbey of
1690-453: Is believed to have been completed by the outbreak of the Wars of Scottish Independence in 1296. Although Edward I of England took his army to Elgin in 1296 and again in 1303, the cathedral remained untouched, as it was by his grandson Edward III during his assault on Moray in 1336. Soon after his election to the see in 1362–63, Bishop Alexander Bur requested funds from Pope Urban V to repair
1820-772: Is located adjacent to the St Giles Centre and is operated mainly by Stagecoach . It provides services within Elgin and to other local towns as well as to Aberdeen and Inverness. The nearest airports are Inverness Airport , which has flights to mainly UK destinations, and Aberdeen Airport which has UK and international flights. The following denominations have places of worship in Elgin: Church of Scotland Free Church of Scotland Baptist Union of Scotland Roman Catholic Church Scottish Episcopal Church Dunfermline Abbey Dunfermline Abbey
1950-485: Is the Reverend MaryAnn R. Rennie. The old building was a fine example of simple and massive Romanesque , as the nave testifies, and has a beautiful doorway in its west front. Alexander I had the two towers built which flanked the great western entrance. Another rich Romanesque doorway was exposed in the south wall in 1903, when masons were cutting a site for the memorial to the soldiers who had fallen in
2080-438: Is thought unlikely and that it was Bishop Andrew who commenced the building works on an unoccupied location. Construction of the cathedral was completed after 1242. Chronicler John of Fordun recorded (without explanation) that in 1270 the cathedral church and the canons' houses had been destroyed by fire. The cathedral was rebuilt in a larger and grander style, forming the greater part of the structure that stands today. This work
2210-747: The BenRiach distillery all within six miles of Elgin. In a 2006 study, Elgin was shown to be one of the most expensive towns in which to buy property in Scotland. Elgin is in the Moray West, Nairn and Strathspey constituency of the United Kingdom Parliament which returns a Member of Parliament (MP) to the House of Commons , currently Graham Leadbitter of the SNP. Elgin is in
2340-474: The Elgin Reptiles . In the Elgin district, boulders belonging to the lowest group of Jurassic strata, Oxford clay and chalk are found both in glacial deposits and on the surface of the ground. The largest of these deposits is at Linksfield, where limestone and shale lie on boulder clay. There is a large hill in Elgin's town centre, often viewed as the highlight of the Elgin tourist trail. Elgin's climate
2470-503: The Holy Trinity and St Margaret , was founded in 1128 by King David I of Scotland , but the monastic establishment was based on an earlier priory dating back to the reign of his father King Máel Coluim mac Donnchada , i. e. "Malcolm III" or "Malcolm Canmore" (regnat 1058–93), and his queen, St Margaret. At its head was the Abbot of Dunfermline , the first of which was Geoffrey of Canterbury , former Prior of Christ Church, Canterbury ,
2600-557: The Kirk of St Giles , its cathedral was abandoned. On 14 February 1567, an act of parliament authorised Regent Lord James Stewart's Privy Council to order the removal of the lead from the roofs of both Elgin and Aberdeen cathedrals, to be sold to support the army, but the overladen ship commissioned to take the cargo to Holland capsized and sank in Aberdeen harbour. Regent Moray and Patrick Hepburn, Bishop of Moray ordered repairs to
2730-553: The Lord of the Isles followers. As the cathedral grew, so did the number of clerics and craftsmen. Repairs following the fires of 1270 and 1390 resulted in the choir 's doubling in length and the addition of outer aisles to both the nave and choir. While some parts of walls retain their full height, others are at foundation level, yet the overall cruciform shape is still discernible. A mostly intact octagonal chapter house dates from
SECTION 20
#17327652852652860-537: The Moray Firth some 14 kilometres (9 mi) to the east of Elgin. On its east side lay church lands within the upland territories in the Strathbogie including the bishops' mensal barony of Keith (Strathysla). The lands extended southwards into the highland territories on the river's upper reaches of Strathspey and in its catchment area spreading as far south as Logynkenny near the diocesan border with
2990-999: The Moray constituency of the Scottish Parliament which has significantly different boundaries to the UK Parliament constituency. The constituency returns a Member of the Scottish Parliament (MSP) to Holyrood —currently Richard Lochhead of the SNP—and is part of the Highlands and Islands electoral region . Elgin is represented on the Moray Council by two wards: Elgin City North and Elgin City South . Each ward elects three members using
3120-400: The River Lossie , with the suburbs of Bishopmill to the north and New Elgin to the south. Permo – Triassic rocks, rare in Scotland, are commonly found around Elgin. These are composed of aeolian sandstone formed when this area was subjected to desert conditions. Quarry Wood, on the town's edge, has a formation nicknamed Cuttie's Hillock which produced the internationally known fossils called
3250-518: The single transferable vote system - a form of proportional representation . Elgin unsuccessfully bid to become a city as part of Elizabeth II 's Platinum Jubilee celebrations in 2022. The last Scottish town to become a city was Dunfermline in 2022. Elgin is situated on the A96 trunk route which connects the cities of Aberdeen and Inverness . Heavy traffic through the town causes serious congestion. Scottish transport minister Tavish Scott visited
3380-419: The 18th century. Simon's successor was Richard of Lincoln, once again a royal clerk, and one who struggled to build up the revenues of the bishopric during and after the insurgence of Domnall mac Uilleim (Donald MacWilliam). Richard is regarded as the first significant resident bishop of the see. During this early period, these bishops had no settled location for their cathedral, and sited it successively at
3510-576: The British Linen Company, Caledonian, Commercial, North of Scotland, Royal and Union Banks, and the National Securities Savings Bank, offices or agencies of 48 insurance companies, five hotels, and a newspaper. The Cooper Park drill hall was completed in 1908. The war memorial in Elgin dates from 1921 and represents "Peace and Victory". It was designed by Percy Portsmouth . The modern town straddles
3640-836: The English. After Edward's death in July 1307, Robert the Bruce attacked Elgin and then retook Scotland in 1308. In August 1370 Alexander Bur , Bishop of Moray began payments to Alexander Stewart , Wolf of Badenoch, King Robert III's brother, for the protection of his lands and men. In February 1390, the bishop then turned to Thomas Dunbar , son of the Earl of Moray, to provide the protection. This action infuriated Stewart and in May he descended from his castle on an island in Lochindorb and burned
3770-590: The Holy Rood, St Catherine, St Duthac, St Lawrence, St Mary Magdalene, St Mary the Virgin and St Michael. By the time of Bishop Bur's episcopate (1362–1397), the cathedral had 15 canons (excluding dignitaries), 22 vicars-choral and a similar number of chaplains. Despite these numbers, not all clergy were regularly present in Elgin Cathedral. Absences were a common occurrence in all cathedrals during
3900-539: The Kent monastery that probably supplied Dunfermline's first monks. At the peak of its power it controlled four burghs, three courts of regality , and a large portfolio of lands from Moray in the north south to Berwickshire . In the decades after its foundation the abbey was the recipient of considerable endowments, as seen from the dedication of 26 altars donated by individual benefactors and guilds where private masses for those benefactors would have been said. The abbey
4030-571: The Lion at his court held in Elgin. After Felix's death, Simon de Toeni, a kinsman of King William and former abbot of Coggeshall in Essex, became the next bishop. Bishop Simon was the first of the early bishops to adopt a hands-on approach to managing his diocese. It is believed that he was buried in Birnie Kirk , near Elgin, after his death on 17 September 1184, although this claim only emerged in
Elgin Cathedral - Misplaced Pages Continue
4160-623: The Panns Port and the west gate to the burgh. Another major improvement involved inserting a new gateway (the North Gate) into the precinct wall beside the manse of Botarie (position 3 ). Andrew also instructed thirteen prebendaries, which included the archdeacon and the succentor, to immediately "erect, construct, build, and duly repair their manses, and the enclosures of their gardens within the college of Moray". The manse of Duffus (in its earlier wooden form) had hosted two kings. The first
4290-560: The Pope provided income from the Scottish Church over the following decade. In 1400, Bur complained to the Abbot of Arbroath about prebendary churches in the Moray diocese not paying their dues for the cathedral restoration. In the same year Bur wrote to the rector of Aberchirder church, telling him that he now owed three years' arrears of the subsidy that had been imposed on non-prebendary churches in 1397. Once again, on 3 July 1402,
4420-627: The Precentor, and the Archdeacon (positions 4 , 9 and 13 respectively). However, two further manses, Duffus and Unthank (positions 18 and 19 ) can be accurately located by juxtaposing the pre-Reformation and post-Reformation chanonry layout. To do this, the much later King Street (established in 1830), is shown as a transparent overlay to preserve detail. King Street divided those manses from each other leaving them on opposite corners of King Street where it joined North College Street (shown on
4550-559: The Prince's generals, was captured and taken to London and eventual execution, but he wrote to his friend from prison about his indebtedness to the shoemakers of Elgin: Beside my personal debts mentioned in general and particular in the State, there is one for which I am liable in justice, if it is not paid, owing to poor people who gave their work for it by my orders. It was at Elgin in Murray,
4680-530: The Priory of Urquhart. David had made Elgin a royal burgh around 1130, after his defeat of Óengus of Moray . During David's reign, the castle was established at the top of what is now Lady Hill. The town received a royal charter from Alexander II in 1224 when he granted the land for a new cathedral to Andrew, Bishop of Moray . This finally settled the episcopal see which had been at various times at Kinneddar , Birnie and Spynie . The ancient Forest of Darnaway
4810-489: The Regiment I commanded wanted shoes. I commissioned something about seventy pair of shoes and brogues, which might come to 3 shillngs or three shillings and sixpence each, one with the other. The magistrates divided them among the shoemakers of the town and country, and each shoemaker furnished his proportion. I drew on the town, for the price, out of the composition laid on them, but I was afterwards told at Inverness that, it
4940-577: The abbey is the Northern Renaissance poet, Robert Henryson . The tomb of Saint Margaret and Malcolm Canmore, within the ruined walls of the Lady chapel, was restored and enclosed by command of Queen Victoria . The current building on the site of the choir of the old abbey church is a parish church of the Church of Scotland , still with the name Dunfermline Abbey. The minister (since 2012 )
5070-589: The aid of the poor. It suffered fire damage in 1390 and again in 1445. Initially, the cathedral clerks received it as a benefice but it gradually fell into disrepair due to a lack of support. Bishop James Hepburn granted it to the Blackfriars of Elgin on 17 November 1520, possibly to try and ensure its survival. After the Reformation, the Crown took ownership of the property, and in 1595, James VI granted it to
5200-507: The area, although in 2010 the closure of RAF Kinloss had a significant effect on these numbers. Aware of the impact that the Air Force has on the area's economy, the local population instigated a long campaign to save RAF Lossiemouth, the future of which was also in doubt. How much of an influence this had upon the government's and Ministry of Defence's final decision is uncertain, but the base was ultimately saved and RAF Leuchars instead faced
5330-417: The arrival of the king's army. He stayed in Elgin with Mrs Anderson, a passionate Jacobite , at Thunderton House. She kept the sheets that the Prince slept on and was buried in them a quarter of a century later. The Duke of Cumberland passed through the town on 13 April, camping at Alves on the way to meet the Prince in battle on Drummossie Muir. After the battle, William Boyd, 4th Earl of Kilmarnock , one of
Elgin Cathedral - Misplaced Pages Continue
5460-421: The axe as part of the same Strategic Defence and Security Review. RAF Leuchars will now become, like RAF Kinloss, an army base. Other areas offering significant employment are local authority, construction and real estate, food and drink, tourism, transport, business services and wholesale/retail. Whisky is an important component of the wider local economy, with Glen Moray distillery , Miltonduff distillery and
5590-466: The beginning of the cathedral's steady decay. Although still largely intact in 1615, a winter storm brought down the roof covering the eastern limb. In the spring of 1711, the central steeple above the crossing collapsed, taking the walls of the nave with it. Ownership shifted from the Church to the Crown in 1689, but made no difference to the building's continued deterioration. Conservation efforts began in
5720-512: The bishop's estate, and servants working in the service buildings such as the kitchen, bakehouse, brewhouse, granary and stables. The description of the relative positions of the chanonry manses given by the late 19th, and early 20th century antiquarian, the Rev. Stephen Ree has been reproduced in David Firth's article for The Innes Review and forms the basis for this map. It is constructed from
5850-531: The bishop's protection. Bur sought reparation from Robert III for his brother's actions in a letter stating: my church was the particular ornament of the fatherland, the glory of the kingdom, the joy of strangers and incoming guests, the object of praise and exaltation in other kingdoms because of its decoration, by which it is believed that God was properly worshipped; not to mention its high bell towers, its venerable furnishings and uncountable jewels. Robert III granted Bur an annuity of £20 for his lifetime, and
5980-493: The bishops strongly defended their rights when secular lords tried encroaching on church lands. The bishops retained properties that were important to their needs and those of their households. These included elevated areas immediately north of Elgin, considered part of the bishops' demesne, and comprised the lands of Spynie, where the bishop's palace was, and the adjoining barony of Kinneddar. Outside of these areas, church lands were widely dispersed. The lengthy River Spey entered
6110-486: The burgh and cathedral precinct were attacked, this time by Alexander of Lochaber, brother of Domhnall of Islay, Lord of the Isles , sparing the cathedral but burning the manses. For this, Lochaber and his captains were excommunicated, prompting Lochaber's return in September to make reparations and gain absolution. In 1408, the money saved during an ecclesiastic vacancy was diverted to the rebuilding process, and in 1413
6240-714: The burgh for educational and charitable purposes. In 1624, it was replaced by an almshouse but in 1750 it was substantially damaged during a storm and lay in ruins until its demolition during a 19th-century redevelopment of the area. In August 1560, parliament gathered in Edinburgh to enact legislation declaring the Scottish church to be Protestant, removing papal authority, and making the Catholic mass illegal. Consequently, cathedral buildings now survived only if they were used as parish churches and as Elgin had been fully served by
6370-469: The burgh. The Dominican Black Friars friary was founded in the western part of the town below the castle, around 1233. The friary of the Franciscan (Friars Minor Conventual) Grey Friars was later founded in the eastern part of the burgh sometime before 1281. It is thought that this foundation didn't last long but was followed between 1479 and 1513 by a house of Observantine Grey Friars. The building
6500-467: The canons met in the chapter house to listen to a reading from St Benedict 's rulebook before the day's business was discussed. Bishop Brice presided over a small chapter comprising eight clerics, including the dean, precentor, treasurer, chancellor, archdeacon, and three canons. His successor, Bishop Andrew de Moravia expanded the chapter significantly by appointing two additional senior positions ( succentor and subdean) and 16 more canons with prebends. By
6630-411: The canons to be aided by seventeen vicars consisting of seven priests, five deacons and five sub-deacons. Later the number of vicars was increased to twenty-five. In 1350, the stipends of the vicars at Elgin were not sufficient for their livelihoods, so Bishop John of Pilmuir provided them with the income from two churches and the patronage of another from Thomas Randolph, second Earl of Moray . By 1489,
SECTION 50
#17327652852656760-570: The castle's wooden interior had been burned while held by the English governor, Henry de Rye. As a result, he only stayed in Elgin for two days and then camped at Kinloss Abbey from 13 September until 4 October. King Edward was furious when David de Moravia, Bishop of Moray, joined Scotland's cause with Bruce, and Edward appealed to the Pope who excommunicated the bishop, thus removing papal protection, causing him to flee to Orkney , then to Norway , only to return after Robert Bruce's victories against
6890-509: The cathedral grounds became the burial ground for Elgin. In 1685, the town council repaired the boundary wall but specifically ordered that stones from the cathedral not be used. Despite the building's increasing instability, the chapter house continued to be used for meetings of the Incorporated Trades from 1671 to 1676 and then again from 1701 to around 1731. No attempt was made to stabilise the structure and on Easter Sunday 1711,
7020-459: The cathedral precinct, but only two small sections have survived. Of the wall's four access gates, only the Pans Port remains. By the time of the Scottish Reformation in 1560, the number of canons had increased to 25. After the Reformation the cathedral was abandoned, and its services transferred to Elgin's parish church of St Giles . The removal of the roof's lead waterproofing in 1567 marked
7150-492: The cathedral, by order of the Privy Council of Scotland . The lead was sold to William Birnie and Alexander Clark . The proceeds went to the maintenance of Regent Moray 's soldiers, but the ship taking the lead cargo to Holland sank almost immediately on leaving Aberdeen harbour. Without this protection, the building began to deteriorate. The Kirk Session records of Elgin name women who danced at New Year 1623 to
7280-519: The cathedral, citing neglect and hostile attacks. In August 1370 Bur began protection payments to Alexander Stewart, Lord of Badenoch , also known as the Wolf of Badenoch , who became Earl of Buchan in 1380, and who was the son of the future King Robert II . Numerous disputes between Bur and Buchan led to Buchan's excommunication in February 1390. The bishop then turned for protection to Thomas Dunbar ,
7410-473: The central tower collapsed demolishing the nave. Subsequently, the cathedral's stonework was quarried for local projects. Many artists visited Elgin to sketch the ruins, and it is from their work that the slow but continuing ruination can be observed. By the closing years of the 18th century, travellers to Elgin began to visit the ruin, and pamphlets giving the history of the cathedral were prepared for those early tourists. In 1773 Samuel Johnson recorded, "a paper
7540-467: The chapter decided to penalise canons who persistently absented themselves, breaching the terms of their attendance, by deducting one-seventh of their income. In the Diocese of Aberdeen, and likely in other bishoprics as well, when important decisions needed to be made by the chapter, an absentee canon had to appoint a procurator to act on their behalf. This task usually fell to one of the dignitaries having
7670-413: The churches of Birnie , Kinneddar and Spynie. On 7 April 1206, Pope Innocent III issued an apostolic bull allowing bishop Brice de Douglas to fix his cathedral church at Spynie. The inauguration was held between spring 1207, and summer 1208. A chapter of five dignitaries and three ordinary canons was authorised and based its constitution on that of Lincoln Cathedral . Under David I, Elgin emerged as
7800-618: The clergy and took place behind the rood screen, separating the high altar and choir from lay worshipers. Only cathedrals, collegiate churches and large burgh churches were resourced to perform the more elaborate services while services in the humbler parish churches were more basic. The bishops were careful to uphold high standards within the cathedral ensuring that a significant number of graduate clerics who, as choir vicars, could act as proxies for absentee canons, alongside an unknown number of resident chaplains. In addition to those in holy orders, clerks and lawyers were needed to record and execute
7930-551: The completed cathedral as "Mirror of the country and the glory of the kingdom". Edward I of England travelled twice to Elgin. During his first visit in 1296, he was impressed by what he saw. Preserved in the Cotton library now held in the British Library is the journal of his stay, describing the castle and the town of Elgin as "bon chastell et bonne ville"—good castle and good town. By his second visit in September 1303,
SECTION 60
#17327652852658060-470: The country is rich and pleasant, so here are a great many rich inhabitants, and in the town of Elgin in particular; for the gentlemen, as if this was the Edinburgh, or the court, for this part of the island, leave their Highland habitations in the winter and come and live here for the diversion of the place and plenty of provisions; and there is, on this account, a great variety of gentlemen for society, and that of all parties and of all opinions. This makes Elgin
8190-663: The dean. Appointed officials adjudicated at consistory courts looking at matters affecting tithes , marriages, divorces, widows, orphans, wills and other related legal matters. In Moray, these courts were held in Elgin and Inverness. By 1452 the Bishop of Moray held all his lands in one regality and had Courts of Regality presided over by Bailiffs and Deputies to ensure the payment of revenues from his estates. Mensal prebends: Large cathedrals such as Elgin had many chapel altars requiring canons, assisted by many chaplains and vicars, to conduct daily services. Bishop Andrew allowed for
8320-472: The deaneries and carried out the bishop's directives. The Moray diocese was divided into four deaneries—Elgin, Inverness, Strathspey and Strathbogie. The parish churches within these deaneries provided income not only for the cathedral and chapter but also for other religious houses within and outside the diocese. Many churches were allocated to support designated canons and a smaller number were held in common. The bishop received mensal and prebendary income from
8450-409: The dignitaries, canons and chaplains within the chanonry were also destroyed during the fires of 1270, 1390 and 1402, forming part of the overall reconstruction process. Only the precentor 's manse remains substantially intact, while two others have been incorporated into private buildings. Both west front towers, part of the initial construction, are mostly complete. A massive protective wall surrounded
8580-545: The diocese, the bishops of Moray also possessed significant secular powers as prominent feudal lords. Their landed estates were extensive in significant areas of the Highlands and along the southern reaches of the Moray Firth. The bishops, representing religious and secular authority, played an important role in solidifying royal governance and stability in a historically volatile region. The importance of this relationship
8710-423: The early 19th century and continued until the end of the 20th century, with significant improvements to the two western towers. The Diocese of Moray was a regional bishopric , unlike the pre-eminent see of the Scottish church, St Andrews , which had evolved from a more ancient monastic Celtic church and administered dispersed localities. It is uncertain whether there were bishops of Moray before c. 1120, but
8840-475: The east gable tumbled in 1726. The final collapse of the central tower took place in 1753. The nave served as the parish church till the 19th century, and now forms the vestibule of a new church. This edifice, in the Perpendicular style, opened for public worship in 1821, occupies the site of the ancient chancel and transepts, though differing in style and proportions from the original structure. Also of
8970-428: The extant east gate, or Panns Port, accessing the meadowland called Le Pannis —this gate illustrates the portcullis defences of the gatehouses (Fig. 1) —and the north gate providing a more convenient route towards the bishop's mill and his Spynie Palace . Although manses were normally located within the precinct walls this was not always the case. Bishop John Pilmuir (1326-1362), on 14 December 1360, gifted
9100-475: The first known prelate—possibly later translated to Dunkeld —was Gregory (or Giric, in Gaelic) and was probably bishop in name only. Gregory was a signatory to the foundation charter of Scone Priory , issued by Alexander I ( Alaxandair mac Maíl Choluim ) between December 1123 and April 1124, and again in a charter defining the legal rights of the same monastery. He is recorded for the last time when he witnessed
9230-576: The glory of the kingdom and the admiration of foreigners." Chambers, in his Picture of Scotland , says: It is an allowed fact, which the ruins seem still to attest, that this was by far the most splendid specimen of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland, the abbey church of Melrose not excepted. It must be acknowledged that the edifice last mentioned is a wonderful instance of symmetry and elaborate decoration; yet in extent, in loftiness, in impressive magnificence, and even in minute decoration, Elgin has been manifestly superior. Enough still remains to impress
9360-466: The higher ground above the floodplain where the town of Birnie is. There, the church of Birnie Kirk was built in 1140 and serves the community to this day. Elgin is first documented in the Cartulary of Moray in 1190 AD. It was created a royal burgh in the 12th century by King David I of Scotland , and by that time had a castle on top of the present-day Lady Hill to the west of the town. The origin of
9490-527: The hospital. In 1828 the new parish church of St Giles was built at a cost of £10,000. L. General Andrew Anderson, born in Elgin, also of the East India Company, died in 1824 and bequeathed £70,000 to the town to found an institution for the welfare of the elderly poor and for the education of orphans. The Anderson Institution was built in the east end of the town in 1832 with accommodation for 50 children and ten elderly people. The Burgh Court House
9620-400: The inscription on his tomb praising his work. Upon his death, the chapter met secretly—" in quadam camera secreta in campanili ecclesie Moraviensis " ("in the same secret chamber in the bell tower of Moray church")—and agreed that if one of its members was elected bishop, they would provide one-third of the bishopric income annually until the reconstruction was completed. The major alterations to
9750-509: The jurisdiction of the king's legal officer, the Sheriff. While the 1390 fire destroyed many charters that likely contained significant details regarding the attainment of land grants from royalty and the aristocracy, the surviving documents offer valuable insights into this process. However, the Barony of Spynie charter of 1451 named and defined much, but not all, of the diocesan lands. Some of
9880-422: The lands had normally been granted in perpetuity, they did demonstrate the lengths the bishops went to retain their privileges as secular overlords. The records also provide details of the lands that once were held exclusively by the church but had then been transformed into lease holdings. Land transfer had mainly arisen in the turbulent period from the mid-14th to the early 15th centuries. But even during this time,
10010-534: The lay centre of the province likely with the establishment of the first castle in the town. It may have been this castle, with its promise of better security, that prompted Brice to petition the Pope to move the seat from Spynie to Elgin before July 1216 . Despite Brice's earlier appeal, it was not until Andrew de Moravia 's episcopate that Pope Honorius III issued his bull on 10 April 1224 authorising his legates Gilbert de Moravia , Bishop of Caithness ; Robert, Abbot of Kinloss ; and Henry, Dean of Ross to examine
10140-742: The lordship of Lochaber . West of the Spey, churchlands were present in areas along the fertile coastal plane between Elgin and Inverness and then down both sides of the Great Glen . The highland hinterland also contained church holdings in Glenfiddich, Strathavon, the Findhorn Valley, Strathnairn, and Badenoch. The lands detailed in the charter of the Barony of Spynie , including all diocesan clergy utilised property, in
10270-424: The main services, and the chantry chaplains who conducted services at individual foundation altars though there was some overlap in their duties. While the chapter followed the constitution of Lincoln, the form of divine service replicated that of Salisbury Cathedral . Records indicate that disciplinary measures, including fines and even corporal punishment , were imposed on Elgin's vicars-choral for shortcomings in
10400-454: The major enlargement after the fire of 1270. The near intact gable wall above the double door entrance linking the west towers was rebuilt after the fire of 1390. It contains fragments of a large rose window with remnants of tracery work. The transepts and the south aisle of the choir contain recessed and chest tombs with effigies of bishops and knights. The now grass-covered floor bears large flat slabs marking early graves. The residences of
10530-405: The map as Derne Road) and were not set back into their respective gardens, but formed part of their respective property boundaries. These five manses provide precise reference points that assist in placing the others. While the exact positioning, alignment and other characteristics of the remaining manse boundaries are speculative, they correlate with Stephen Ree's description. Similarly, aside from
10660-448: The monastery there still remains the south wall of the refectory, with a fine window. Next to the abbey is the ruin of Dunfermline Palace , also part of the original abbey complex and connected to it via the gatehouse. Dunfermline Abbey, one of Scotland 's most important cultural sites has, after Iona , received more of Scotland's royal dead than any other place in the kingdom. One of the most notable non-royal names to be associated with
10790-470: The monks claim'd it for a city; and the cathedral shews, by its ruins, that it was a place of great magnificence. Nor must it be wonder'd at, if in so pleasant, so rich, and so agreeable a part of the country, all the rest being so differing from it, the clergy should seat themselves in a proportion'd number, seeing we must do them the justice to say, that if there is any place richer and more fruitful, and pleasant than another, they seldom fail to find it out. As
10920-470: The name Elgin is likely to be Celtic. It may derive from 'Aille' literally signifying beauty, but in topography a beautiful place or valley. Another possibility is 'ealg', meaning both 'Ireland' and 'worthy'. The termination 'gin' or 'in' are Celtic endings signifying little or diminutive forms, hence Elgin could mean beautiful place, worthy place or little Ireland. The discovery of the Elgin Pillar ,
11050-447: The new and developing cathedral was staffed with 18 canons , a number that increased to 23 by 1242. A damaging fire in 1270 led to significant enlargement. It remained unscathed during the Wars of Scottish Independence but suffered extensive fire damage in 1390 when attacked by Robert III 's brother Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan , also known as the Wolf of Badenoch . In 1402, the cathedral precinct faced another incendiary attack by
11180-411: The order that they appear in the charter: Elgin, Moray Elgin ( / ˈ ɛ l ɡ ɪ n / EL -ghin ; Scots : Ailgin ; Scottish Gaelic : Eilginn [ˈel(e)kʲɪɲ] ) is a historic town (former cathedral city ) and formerly a royal burgh in Moray , Scotland . It is the administrative and commercial centre for Moray. The town originated to the south of the River Lossie on
11310-457: The ornately carved screen and woodwork that had remained intact. The tracery of the West window was destroyed sometime between 1650 and 1660 by Cromwell 's soldiers. On Easter Sunday 1711 the central tower collapsed for the second time in its history but caused much more damage. The rubble was quarried for various projects in the vicinity until 1807 when, through the efforts of Joseph King of Newmill,
11440-414: The parish churches in his separate capacities as prelate and canon. The diocese's government affecting both clergy and laity was vested entirely in the bishop, who appointed officers to the ecclesiastical, criminal and civil courts. The bishop, assisted by his chapter, produced the church laws and regulations for the diocese and enforced them at occasional diocesan synods by the bishop or, in his absence, by
11570-482: The performance of services. Such punishments were administered in the chapter house by the sub-dean and witnessed by the chapter. King Alexander II founded a chaplaincy for the soul of King Duncan I who died in battle with Macbeth near Elgin. The chapel most frequently mentioned in records was St Thomas the Martyr , located in the north transept and supported by five chaplains. Other chaplaincies documented are those of
11700-404: The redemption of his soul and those of his parents. Again, but by whose authority is unknown, the manse of Rhynie adjacent to the manses of five or more chaplains stood outside of the west wall but to the north (positions 1 and 2 ). Bishop Andrew Stewart (1482-1501), the youngest son of James Stewart of Lorne, and Joan Beaufort, the widow of James I of Scotland , was a significant figure during
11830-409: The reign of Alexander II for the reception of poor men and women. On 19 July 1224, the foundation stone of the new Elgin Cathedral was ceremoniously laid. The cathedral was completed sometime after 1242 but was completely destroyed by fire in 1270. The reasons for this are unrecorded. The buildings now remain as ruins date from the reconstruction following that fire. The Chartulary of Moray described
11960-407: The reign of his nephew, James III . Following the death of James in 1488, Bishop Andrew found himself out of favour at James IV's court allowing him to spend more time in his diocese. In May 1489 Andrew called a general convocation of his canons to make long overdue changes to the college and its environs. Midst his slew of legislation was the approval of essential repairs to two of the gatehouses,
12090-410: The requirements of the chapter. Of necessity, there were needs for artisans and craftsmen such as masons, carpenters, and glaziers, all engaged in maintaining the fabric of the buildings with housekeepers, cooks, land workers and gardeners needed to sustain the precinct population. At the bishop's residence at Spynie, the household numbers would also have been significant with officials handling records of
12220-437: The roof in July 1569, appointing Hew Craigy, Parson of Inverkeithing , as master of the work and was to collect contributions from the canons of the diocese—this didn't happen. In 1615, John Taylor, known as the 'Water Poet,' described Elgin Cathedral as a "fair and beautiful church with three steeples." However, he noted that the roofs, windows, and many marble monuments and tombs were broken and defaced. Decay began and
12350-591: The roof of the eastern limb collapsed during a storm on 4 December 1637. In 1640 the General Assembly ordered Gilbert Ross, the minister of St Giles Kirk, to remove the rood screen partitioning the choir and presbytery from the nave. The screen was chopped up for firewood by Ross and the Lairds of Innes and Brodie. It is believed that the destruction of the great west window was caused by Oliver Cromwell 's soldiers sometime between 1650 and 1660. At some point,
12480-406: The rubbish which encumbered the area of the Cathedral and obscured its architectural beauties, may be gathered from the fact that he removed, with his pick-axe and shovel, 2866 barrowfuls of earth, besides disclosing a flight of steps that led to the grand gateway of the edifice. Tombs and figures, which had long lain hid in obscurity, were unearthed and every monumental fragment of saints and holy men
12610-583: The solitary traveller with a sense of admiration mixed with astonishment. Lachlan Shaw in his History of the Province of Moray was equally impressed when he wrote the church when entire was a building of Gothic architecture inferior to few in Europe. Prince Charles Edward Stuart travelled to Elgin from Inverness in March 1746 and, falling ill with a feverish cold, stayed for 11 days before returning to await
12740-458: The son of the Earl of Moray. In response, and possibly through frustration of the reappointment of his brother Robert Stewart, Earl of Fife as guardian of Scotland, Buchan descended from his island castle on Lochindorb and burned the town of Forres in May and Elgin, including the cathedral and its manses, in June. It is believed that he also burned Pluscarden Priory at that time, which was under
12870-536: The sound of a trumpet. Six men, described as guisers or "gwysseris" performed a sword dance wearing masks and visors covering their faces in the churchyard and in the courtyard of a house. They were fined 40 shillings each. The fabric of the Cathedral continued to deteriorate. In 1637, the rafters over the choir were blown down and in 1640 the minister of St Giles along with the Laird of Innes and Alexander Brodie of Brodie , all ardent Covenanters , removed and destroyed
13000-401: The stipends varied among the vicars, with one receiving 12 marks, six receiving 10 marks, one receiving eight marks, three receiving seven marks, and six receiving five marks. Each vicar was directly employed by a canon, who was obligated to provide four months' notice in the event of termination of his service.[ The vicars were of two kinds: the vicars-choral who primarily worked in the choir for
13130-462: The stone made available to the 15th- and 16th-century masons, while the 13th-century construction still remains. In 1506, the great central tower collapsed and although rebuilding work began the next year it was not completed till 1538. The citizens of Elgin and surrounding areas did not seem to object to the new religion following the Reformation . In 1568 the lead was stripped from the roof of
13260-538: The suitability of transferring the cathedra to Elgin. The Bishop of Caithness and the Dean of Ross performed the translation ceremony on 19 July 1224. On 5 July, Alexander II ( Alaxandair mac Uilliam ) agreed to the transference in a writ referring to his previous land grant for this purpose. The land grant predated the Papal mandate and could indicate that work on a new church was already underway before Brice's death, but this
13390-531: The surrounding area in about 1815. The Lord Provost of Elgin petitioned the King's Remembrancer for assistance to build a new roof for the chapter house and in 1824, £121 was provided to the architect Robert Reid for its construction. Reid was significant in developing a conservation policy for historic buildings in Scotland and was to become the first Head of the Scottish Office of Works (SOW) in 1827. It
13520-404: The time Andrew died, there were 23 prebendary canons, and two more were created before the Reformation . Churches that were either located in ecclesiastic lands or granted to the diocese by landowners were subject to assignment to canons as prebends. The de Moravia family, to which Bishop Andrew belonged, contributed greatly to these endowments. Deans of Christianity oversaw the priests within
13650-514: The town in August 2006 to look at the traffic management problems and to meet campaigners for a bypass. It is estimated that a bypass would remove about one-third of traffic from Elgin's streets. The A941 runs from Lossiemouth through Elgin to Rothes, Craigellachie, Dufftown and Rhynie . Elgin railway station is operated by ScotRail . The railway also connects to Aberdeen and Inverness which have trains to other UK destinations. Elgin's bus station
13780-475: The town of Forres in revenge. In June he burned much of Elgin, including two monasteries, St Giles Church , the Hospital of Maison Dieu and the cathedral. Andrew of Wyntoun 's Orygynale Cronykil of Scotland (a 15th-century history of Scotland) described this action by "wyld, wykked Heland-men". The rebuilding of the cathedral took many years; but much of it has since crumbled away due to the inferior quality of
13910-467: The two existing sections, the precise positioning of the chanonry wall is unclear, however, a notable indicator of the wall's position was a six-foot thick segment integrated into a house on Collie Street. The chanonry, referred to in the cathedral's records as the college of the chanonry (collegio canonicatus), or simply as the college (collegium), comprised the cathedral and the residences of canons, vicars, and chaplains grouped around it. This precinct
14040-453: The unspecified lands only became apparent during their transference into tenancies or, in some cases, litigation against transgressors. Additional records provide information regarding diocesan lands held by notable leaseholders obliged to pay the bishop homage. These actions typically occurred following events such as the appointment of a new bishop or the emergence of a new heir to relevant lands. Although these occasions were largely symbolic as
14170-422: The vaulted ceiling of the south choir aisle. From 1960 onwards, crumbling sandstone blocks were replaced and new windows fitted in the chapter house, which was also re-roofed to preserve its vaulted ceiling. From 1988 to 2000, significant renovations were carried out on the two western towers, including the establishment of a viewing platform at the top of the north tower. As well as being the ecclesiastical head of
14300-411: The west front were completed before 1435 and bear the coat of arms of Bishop Columba de Dunbar (1422–35). The north and south aisles of the choir were likely completed before 1460, with the south aisle containing the tomb of John de Winchester (1435–60). The final significant feature to be rebuilt was the chapter house between 1482 and 1501, which displays the arms of Bishop Andrew Stewart. The chapter
14430-475: Was Edward I of England on 10 and 11 September 1303 after the castle became unusable and then to the Scottish king James II in 1455. As already stated, the manse of the precentor, mistakenly called the Bishop's House , is partly ruined and is dated 1557 (Fig. 2) . Vestiges of the prebendary of Inverkeithny's manse and the Archdeacon's manse (Fig. 3) are now part of private buildings. There were two friaries in
14560-404: Was 8460 The Elgin–Forres–Lossiemouth triangle is heavily dependent on Royal Air Force stations for the employment of civilians. In 2005, RAF Lossiemouth along with its neighbour RAF Kinloss contributed £156.5 million (including civilian expenditure) to the Moray economy, of which £76.6 million was retained and spent locally. The bases provide, directly or indirectly, 21% of all employment in
14690-435: Was a danger to enter. Some parts of the abbey infrastructure still remain, principally the vast refectory and rooms over the gatehouse which was part of the former city wall. The nave was also spared and it was repaired in 1570 by Robert Drummond of Carnock . In 1672 parts of the east end collapsed, while in 1716 part of the central tower is said to have fallen, presumably destabilising much that still stood around its base, and
14820-415: Was an absentee titular bishop and King David's chaplain. Having been David's aide since 1136, he likely did little to improve the stability of the see by the time he died in 1162. Felix was the next bishop and is thought to have been prelate from 1166 to 1171, although no accurate dates are certain. Little is known about his tenure, with only one instance of him appearing as a witness in a charter of William
14950-481: Was an important destination for pilgrims because it hosted the reliquary shrine and cult of Saint Margaret from whom the abbey later claimed foundation and for which an earlier foundation charter was fabricated. The foundations of the earliest church, namely the Church of the Holy Trinity, are under the superb Romanesque nave built in the 12th century. During the winter of 1303 the court of Edward I of England
15080-450: Was believed, the composition was otherwise applied, and the poor shoemakers not paid. As these poor people wrought by my orders, it will be a great ease to my heart to think they are not to lose by me, as too many have done in the course of that year, but had I lived I might have made some inquiry after but now it is impossible, as their hardships in loss of horses and such things, which happeened through my soldiers, are so interwoven with what
15210-471: Was built in 1841, the museum was completed in 1842 and Elgin Sheriff Court was built in 1866. The Morayshire Railway was officially opened in ceremonies at Elgin and Lossiemouth on 10 August 1852, the steam engines having been delivered to Lossiemouth by sea. It was the first railway north of Aberdeen and initially ran only 5 + 1 ⁄ 2 miles (9 km) between Elgin and Lossiemouth. It
15340-404: Was carefully preserved, and placed in some appropriate situation ... So faithfully did he discharge his duty as keeper of the ruins, that little now remains but to preserve what he accomplished. Some minor works continued during the remainder of the 19th century and were on going into the early 20th century. During the 1930s further maintenance work followed that included a protective roof for
15470-529: Was designated a Royal Forest and was used by the Scottish kings for hunting. Alexander II was Elgin's greatest benefactor and returned many times to his royal castle. He established the two religious houses of the town, the Dominicans or Blackfriars on the west side and the Franciscans or Greyfriars in the east. Further to the east stood the Hospital of Maison Dieu, or House of God also founded during
15600-421: Was done by other people, that it would be very hard, if not impossible, to separate them. If you'll write to Mr Innes of Dalkinty at Elgin (with whom I was quartered when I lay there), he will send you an account of the shoes, and if they were paid to the shoemakers or no; and if they are not, I beg you'll get my wife, or my successors to pay them when they can... In the 19th century, the old medieval town of Elgin
15730-421: Was held in the abbey, and on his departure the following year most of the buildings were burned. During the Scottish Reformation , the stolen abbey church experienced a first Protestant 'cleansing' by September 1559, and was sacked in March 1560. By September 1563 the choir and feretory chapel were roofless, and it was said that the nave was also in a sorry state, with the walls so extensively damaged that it
15860-502: Was highly valued at the time and brought the cathedral back into public focus, his unscientific clearance methods may have resulted in much valuable evidence of the cathedral's history being lost. He died on 14 April 1841, aged 82. A fortnight later, the Inverness Courier published a commemorative piece on Shanks, calling him the "beadle or cicerone of Elgin Cathedral", and writing: His unwearied enthusiasm in clearing away
15990-520: Was later extended south to Craigellachie. The Great North of Scotland Railway took over the working of the line in 1863 and bought the company in 1881 following the Morayshire Railway's return to solvency from crippling debt. The town was becoming prosperous, and by 1882 it had a Head Post Office with a savings bank, insurance and telegraph departments, and branches of the Bank of Scotland and
16120-484: Was probably during his tenure at the SOW that the supporting buttresses to the choir and transept walls were built. In 1824, John Shanks, an Elgin shoemaker and an important figure in conserving the cathedral started his work. Sponsored by local gentleman Isaac Forsyth, Shanks cleared the grounds of centuries of rubbish dumping and rubble. Shanks was officially appointed the site's Keeper and Watchman in 1826. Although his work
16250-517: Was put into our hands, which deduced from sufficient authorities the history of this venerable ruin." Since the abolition of bishops within the Scottish Church in 1689, ownership of the abandoned cathedral fell to the crown, but no attempts were taken to halt the building's decline. Acknowledging the necessity to stabilise the structure, the Elgin Town Council initiated the reconstruction of the perimeter wall in 1809 and cleared debris from
16380-434: Was recognised on 8 November 1451 when James II provided Bishop John Winchester with the Barony of Spynie enabling the consolidation of the disparate church lands and other properties into a single entity. On 15 August 1452, the king elevated the barony into a regality. This provided the bishop with wide-ranging powers including the convening of courts of law capable of adjudicating crimes that had previously fallen solely under
16510-403: Was surrounded by a substantial wall, measuring over 3.5 metres (11 ft) in height, approximately 2 metres (6 ft 7 in) in thickness, and said to have measured about 820 meters (2,690 ft) in length. The wall had four gatehouses: the west gate that allowed travel to and from the burgh, the south gate facing the lands of the hospital of Maison Dieu and joining with the King's Highway,
16640-604: Was swept away. The first major addition to the town centre was the Assembly Rooms, built in 1821 by the Trinity Lodge of Freemasons , at the corner of High Street and North Street. In 1819, Dr Gray's Hospital was built on unused ground. The building has imposing columns and distinctive dome. Dr Alexander Gray, a doctor who worked for and made his fortune with the East India Company , endowed £26,000 for
16770-414: Was the total of dignitaries and canons and had the primary role of aiding the bishop in governing the diocese. As Moray adopted the constitution of Lincoln diocese, the bishop's involvement in the chapter was restricted to being an ordinary canon, while the dean took on the leadership role. This arrangement was also true for the bishops of Aberdeen , Brechin , Caithness , Orkney and Ross . Every morning,
16900-494: Was transferred into the ownership of the burgh around 1559 and later became the Court of Justice in 1563. In 1489, the chapter founded a school that served not only as a song school for the cathedral but also to provide an education in music and reading for some children of Elgin. The hospital of Maison Dieu, dedicated to St Mary , was situated near the cathedral precinct and was established by Bishop Andrew de Moravia before 1237 for
#264735