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73-727: Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. , also known as Zegna Group ( Italian pronunciation: [ˈdzeɲɲa] ) or the Ermenegildo Zegna Group , is an Italian luxury fashion house headquartered in Milan . It was founded in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna in Trivero, Biella , in the Piedmont region of northern Italy . It is led by the Zegna family and is one of the most renowned Italian men’s clothing businesses internationally. As of 2021, it
146-1094: A 60% majority stake in Tessitura Ubertino, a high-end fabric maker based in Piedmont . A few weeks later, Zegna also bought a 40% share in Tessitura Biagioli Modesto, an Italian spinning mill specialized in cashmere production. In 2023, the Prada Group and the Ermenegildo Zegna Group announced an agreement to acquire a minority stake in Luigi Fedeli e Figlio S.r.l., an Italian family-owned company founded in 1934 in Monza, now in its third generation, recognized worldwide as an excellence in Made in Italy knitwear in fine yarns. In 2021, Zegna agreed to go public by combining with
219-486: A 60% stake in the company; the two sons of founder Adalgiso Ubertino have retained a 40% stake as well as the management and creative direction . Founded in 1919 as a spinning business by Modesto Biagioli's father, it became Filati Biagioli Modesto in 1967. The company is based in Montale (Pistoia) and is considered a world leader in the production of high-quality yarns. In 2021 Zegna Group and Prada Group jointly acquired
292-542: A 65% stake in Dondi, while the remaining 35% is retained by the Dondi Capelli family who still runs the business, being responsible for the management and creative direction of the company. Tessitura Ubertino is a fabric maker specialized in high-end fabrics for womenswear, such as tweed and jacquard. It was founded in 1981 by Adalgiso Ubertino and is based near Biella. In June 2021, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired
365-553: A US special-purpose acquisition company launched by European private equity group Investindustrial . On December 20, 2021, the Zegna Group went public in New York with a valuation of $ 3.1 billion and a market capitalization of $ 2.4 billion . It is the first Italian fashion company to be listed in New York. The Zegna family retains control of the company with more than 60% of the capital, held directly by Ermenegildo Zegna and
438-448: A bath in warm water or as complicated as an industrial process using detergent and alkali in specialized equipment. In north west England , special potash pits were constructed to produce potash used in the manufacture of a soft soap for scouring locally produced white wool. Vegetable matter in commercial wool is often removed by chemical carbonization . In less-processed wools, vegetable matter may be removed by hand and some of
511-505: A fiber that holds longevity and durability over synthetic materials, while retaining its shape. In December 2004, a bale of the then world's finest wool, averaging 11.8 microns, sold for AU$ 3,000 per kilogram at auction in Melbourne . This fleece wool tested with an average yield of 74.5%, 68 mm (2.7 in) long, and had 40 newtons per kilotex strength. The result was A$ 279,000 for the bale. The finest bale of wool ever auctioned
584-629: A fourth partner, Costanzo Giardino Vitri, founded Lanificio Zegna & Giardino Vitri in Trivero in the Biellese Alps . With the early departure of Vitri and one of the brothers, Ermenegildo took the helm from the beginning, joined by his brother Mario until the early 1940s. Zegna's vision was to create high-quality fabrics, so he began to source wool directly from several countries around the world, such as Mongolia , Australia, South Africa; he also bought modern machinery from England. During
657-410: A sheep is known as "raw wool", "greasy wool" or "wool in the grease". This wool contains a high level of valuable lanolin , as well as the sheep's dead skin and sweat residue, and generally also contains pesticides and vegetable matter from the animal's environment. Before the wool can be used for commercial purposes, it must be scoured, a process of cleaning the greasy wool. Scouring may be as simple as
730-773: A small percentage of lipids . This makes it chemically quite distinct from cotton and other plant fibers, which are mainly cellulose. Wool is produced by follicles which are small cells located in the skin. These follicles are located in the upper layer of the skin called the epidermis and push down into the second skin layer called the dermis as the wool fibers grow. Follicles can be classed as either primary or secondary follicles. Primary follicles produce three types of fiber: kemp , medullated fibers, and true wool fibers. Secondary follicles only produce true wool fibers. Medullated fibers share nearly identical characteristics to hair and are long but lack crimp and elasticity. Kemp fibers are very coarse and shed out. Wool's crimp refers to
803-410: A stake into Indian fashion designer Raghavendra Rathore 's firm. In the same year Zegna announced that they purchased 85% of the eponymously named Thom Browne , a New York City-based menswear and womenswear brand, founded in 2001. In 2019, Zegna bought a 65% stake of Italian jersey fabrics manufacturer Dondi, increasing its control over the textile supply chain . In June 2021, the Zegna Group bought
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#1732791627604876-541: A straw hats maker, Bonotto was converted in a textile manufacturer by Nicla Donazzan and Luigi Bonotto in 1972. In 2016, Zegna Group acquired a controlling stake in the company. Bonotto is known for following a “slow factory” model, aiming at craftsmanship and rejecting standardization and low cost chain production. Bonotto is also famous for the rich archive of its Foundation, which houses over 24,000 works of art. Based in Sagliano Micca (Biella), Cappellificio Cervo
949-537: A twenty-year term and includes an automatic renewal for an additional decade. The Ermenegildo Zegna Group controls the entire value chain of its products, from the purchase of raw materials through fabric production to the design and sale of finished products. The Group controls and participates in nine companies known as the Filiera , comprising Italian textile manufacturers specializing in all areas of interest. Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna (“Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Mill”)
1022-462: A wet diaper by inhibiting wicking, so outer garments remain dry. Wool felted and treated with lanolin is water resistant, air permeable, and slightly antibacterial, so it resists the buildup of odor. Some modern cloth diapers use felted wool fabric for covers, and there are several modern commercial knitting patterns for wool diaper covers. Initial studies of woollen underwear have found it prevented heat and sweat rashes because it more readily absorbs
1095-496: A wool product and subsequently reduced to a fibrous state without having been used by the ultimate consumer". "Reused wool" refers to such wool that has been used by the ultimate consumer. Wild sheep were more hairy than woolly. Although sheep were domesticated some 9,000 to 11,000 years ago, archaeological evidence from statuary found at sites in Iran suggests selection for woolly sheep may have begun around 6000 BC, with
1168-554: Is "the fiber from the fleece of the sheep or lamb or hair of the Angora or Cashmere goat (and may include the so-called specialty fibers from the hair of the camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna) which has never been reclaimed from any woven or felted wool product". " Virgin wool " and " new wool " are also used to refer to such never used wool. There are two categories of recycled wool (also called reclaimed or shoddy wool). "Reprocessed wool" identifies "wool which has been woven or felted into
1241-487: Is a public company that is listed on the New York Stock Exchange . The origins of the family business date back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when Michelangelo (Angelo) Zegna (1859–1923), a watchmaker from Trivero, Biella, decided to open a textile factory in the nearby town of Flecchia. In 1910, three of Angelo’s ten children, including the youngest Ermenegildo (born in 1892), along with
1314-456: Is a historic hattery (founded in 1897) acquired by Zegna-controlled ZECA company in 2018, with the aim of relaunching it, in partnership with entrepreneur Vincenzo Caldesi and Artigiana Cappellai. Based in the Carpi textile hub, near Modena , Dondi was founded in the 1970s as Dondi Jersey and is a renowned manufacturer of high-end knitwear for men and women. In July 2019, the Zegna group acquired
1387-428: Is a silk-weaving company specialized in the production of cashmere, pure silk, and high-end natural fabrics. It was acquired by Zegna in 2009. Founded in 1960, Pettinatura di Verrone is a combing mill based in the textile district of Biella and specialized in combing superfine wools, cashmere, and vicuña . In 2009, Zegna, Loro Piana and Marzotto acquired a 15% stake each of the company. Originally founded in 1912 as
1460-557: Is a strong, long- staple , combed wool yarn with a hard surface. Woolen is a soft, short-staple, carded wool yarn typically used for knitting. In traditional weaving, woolen weft yarn (for softness and warmth) is frequently combined with a worsted warp yarn for strength on the loom. In addition to clothing, wool has been used for blankets , suits , horse rugs , saddle cloths, carpeting , insulation and upholstery. Dyed wool can be used to create other forms of art such as wet and needle felting. Wool felt covers piano hammers, and it
1533-464: Is determined by a technique known as wool classing , whereby a qualified person, called a wool classer, groups wools of similar grading together to maximize the return for the farmer or sheep owner. In Australia, before being auctioned, all Merino fleece wool is objectively measured for average diameter ( micron ), yield (including the amount of vegetable matter ), staple length, staple strength, and sometimes color and comfort factor. Wool straight off
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#17327916276041606-594: Is generally a creamy white color, although some breeds of sheep produce natural colors, such as black, brown, silver, and random mixes. Wool ignites at a higher temperature than cotton and some synthetic fibers . It has a lower rate of flame spread , a lower rate of heat release, a lower heat of combustion , and does not melt or drip; it forms a char that is insulating and self-extinguishing, and it contributes less to toxic gases and smoke than other flooring products when used in carpets. Wool carpets are specified for high safety environments, such as trains and aircraft. Wool
1679-466: Is limited in supply and much of it comes from New Zealand and Australia. Organic wool has become easier to find in clothing and other products, but these products often carry a higher price. Wool is environmentally preferable (as compared to petroleum-based nylon or polypropylene ) as a material for carpets , as well, in particular when combined with a natural binding and the use of formaldehyde -free glues. Animal rights groups have noted issues with
1752-582: Is located in Trivero, in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy. It was founded by Ermenegildo Zegna in 1910, when he was 18. Under the Zegna Group supervision, shorn fleeces coming from several countries are processed at the Lanificio, combining artisanal activities and modern technologies, from raw material to finishing. Founded in 1932 by Luigi Baldi in Pernate, a fraction of the municipality of Novara, it
1825-415: Is pooled in a local market area, but sold through a wool warehouse. Wool offered with objective measurement test results is preferred. Imported apparel wool and carpet wool goes directly to central markets, where it is handled by the large merchants and manufacturers. Shoddy or recycled wool is made by cutting or tearing apart existing wool fabric and respinning the resulting fibers. As this process makes
1898-504: Is processed into 'top'. 'Worsted top' requires strong straight and parallel fibres. The quality of wool is determined by its fiber diameter, crimp , yield, color, and staple strength. Fiber diameter is the single most important wool characteristic determining quality and price. Merino wool is typically 90–115 mm (3.5–4.5 in) in length and is very fine (between 12 and 24 microns). The finest and most valuable wool comes from Merino hoggets . Wool taken from sheep produced for meat
1971-412: Is typically coarser, and has fibers 40–150 mm (1.5–6 in) in length. Damage or breaks in the wool can occur if the sheep is stressed while it is growing its fleece, resulting in a thin spot where the fleece is likely to break. Wool is also separated into grades based on the measurement of the wool's diameter in microns and also its style. These grades may vary depending on the breed or purpose of
2044-425: Is used to absorb odors and noise in heavy machinery and stereo speakers. Ancient Greeks lined their helmets with felt, and Roman legionnaires used breastplates made of wool felt. Wool as well as cotton has also been traditionally used for cloth diapers . Wool fiber exteriors are hydrophobic (repel water) and the interior of the wool fiber is hygroscopic (attracts water); this makes a wool garment suitable cover for
2117-402: Is usually specified for garments for firefighters, soldiers, and others in occupations where they are exposed to the likelihood of fire. Wool causes an allergic reaction in some people. Sheep shearing is the process in which a worker (a shearer ) cuts off the woollen fleece of a sheep. After shearing, wool-classers separate the wool into four main categories: The quality of fleeces
2190-613: Is usually used for making carpets. In the United States, Texas , New Mexico , and Colorado have large commercial sheep flocks and their mainstay is the Rambouillet (or French Merino). Also, a thriving home-flock contingent of small-scale farmers raise small hobby flocks of specialty sheep for the hand-spinning market. These small-scale farmers offer a wide selection of fleece. Global woolclip (total amount of wool shorn) 2020 Organic wool has gained in popularity. This wool
2263-555: The Arte della Lana , the wool guild: wool textile interests guided Florentine policies. Francesco Datini , the "merchant of Prato", established in 1383 an Arte della Lana for that small Tuscan city. The sheepwalks of Castile were controlled by the Mesta union of sheep owners. They shaped the landscape and the fortunes of the meseta that lies in the heart of the Iberian peninsula; in
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2336-466: The Champagne fairs revolved around the production of wool cloth in small centers such as Provins . The network developed by the annual fairs meant the woolens of Provins might find their way to Naples , Sicily, Cyprus , Majorca , Spain, and even Constantinople . The wool trade developed into serious business, a generator of capital. In the 13th century, the wool trade became the economic engine of
2409-699: The Low Countries and central Italy. By the end of the 14th century, Italy predominated. The Florentine wool guild , Arte della Lana , sent the imported English wool to the San Martino convent for processing. Italian wool from Abruzzo and Spanish merino wools were processed at Garbo workshops . Abruzzo wool had once been the most accessible for the Florentine guild, until improved relations with merchants in Iberia made merino wool more available. By
2482-520: The 16th century Italian wool exports to the Levant had declined, eventually replaced by silk production. The value of exports of English raw wool were rivaled only by the 15th-century sheepwalks of Castile and were a significant source of income to the English crown, which in 1275 had imposed an export tax on wool called the "Great Custom". The importance of wool to the English economy can be seen in
2555-569: The 16th century, a unified Spain allowed export of Merino lambs only with royal permission. The German wool market – based on sheep of Spanish origin – did not overtake British wool until comparatively late. Later, the Industrial Revolution introduced mass production technology into wool and wool cloth manufacturing. Australia's colonial economy was based on sheep raising, and the Australian wool trade eventually overtook that of
2628-483: The 1930s when the founder distinguished himself for promoting a series of social welfare initiatives in favor of the Trivero community. In 1993, the Oasi Zegna was established in the Biellese Alps , a natural area of 100 square kilometers where over 500,000 conifers were planted in the late 1930s during the construction of the panoramic road. Fashion house Too Many Requests If you report this error to
2701-628: The European population; cotton from India was a curiosity of which only naturalists had heard, and silks, imported along the Silk Road from China, were extravagant luxury goods . Pliny the Elder records in his Natural History that the reputation for producing the finest wool was enjoyed by Tarentum , where selective breeding had produced sheep with superior fleeces, but which required special care. In medieval times, as trade connections expanded,
2774-542: The Germans by 1845, furnishing wool for Bradford , which developed as the heart of industrialized woolens production. Due to decreasing demand with increased use of synthetic fibers, wool production is much less than what it was in the past. The collapse in the price of wool began in late 1966 with a 40% drop; with occasional interruptions, the price has tended down. The result has been sharply reduced production and movement of resources into production of other commodities, in
2847-462: The Group has become a public company. Consequently, Ermenegildo (Gildo) Zegna, grandson of founder Ermenegildo, took on the role of chairman in addition to CEO, while his cousins Paolo and Anna Zegna joined the board of directors. Zegna is the largest and finest quality fabric producer in the world. The Ermenegildo Zegna Group is particularly active in corporate social responsibility, which began in
2920-516: The Group's stock market listing, the brand name became simply ZEGNA . A new logo was also adopted, referencing the road from which it all began, in homage to the founder’s vision and commitment, who in the 1930s promoted the construction of the provincial road 232 Panoramica Zegna, crossing the company’s original territories. In 2003 Zegna entered the fragrance market. Over the years, it has also signed partnerships with other major brands such as Maserati , Marcolin and Real Madrid . Since June 2016,
2993-568: The Interwar period, Zegna's business started to flourish. In the late 1920s, the Lanificio (wool mill) employed more than 700 workers, growing to more than 1,000 in the late 1930s. In 1938 the company began to export fabrics in the US , through its subsidiary Zegna Woollens Corporation established in New York City. In 1942, Ermenegildo's sons Aldo (born in 1920) and Angelo (born in 1924) entered
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3066-668: The Wikimedia System Administrators, please include the details below. Request from 172.68.168.226 via cp1108 cp1108, Varnish XID 247657065 Upstream caches: cp1108 int Error: 429, Too Many Requests at Thu, 28 Nov 2024 11:00:27 GMT Wool Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and other mammals , especially goats , rabbits , and camelids . The term may also refer to inorganic materials, such as mineral wool and glass wool , that have some properties similar to animal wool. As an animal fiber , wool consists of protein together with
3139-565: The Zegna brothers brought to the openings of the first owned boutique in Paris in 1980, followed by Milan in 1985. In 1991 Zegna became the first luxury label to open a store in China. During the 1990s, the third generation of the Zegna family entered the business. Angelo's son, and namesake of the company's founder, Ermenegildo "Gildo" Zegna , became CEO of the Group in 1997; his cousin Paolo became
3212-472: The animal's back. Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair or fur: it is crimped and elastic . The amount of crimp corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers. A fine wool like Merino may have up to 40 crimps per centimetre (100 crimps per inch), while coarser wool like karakul may have less than one (one or two crimps per inch). In contrast, hair has little if any scale and no crimp, and little ability to bind into yarn . On sheep,
3285-552: The artistic director of ZEGNA has been Alessandro Sartori , who is entrusted with the creative functions of all ZEGNA brands. In 2021, Zegna branded products accounted for 66% of Group revenues. Thom Browne is a New York City-based luxury fashion brand, founded by American designer Thom Browne in 2001. Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired an 85% stake in Thom Browne in August 2018, at a $ 500 million valuation. The founder retained
3358-455: The case of sheep growers, to production of meat. Superwash wool (or washable wool) technology first appeared in the early 1970s to produce wool that has been specially treated so it is machine washable and may be tumble-dried. This wool is produced using an acid bath that removes the "scales" from the fiber, or by coating the fiber with a polymer that prevents the scales from attaching to each other and causing shrinkage. This process results in
3431-478: The centers of the textile trade, the manufacturing process came to be subdivided into a collection of trades, overseen by an entrepreneur in a system called by the English the "putting-out" system, or "cottage industry", and the Verlagssystem by the Germans. In this system of producing wool cloth, once perpetuated in the production of Harris tweeds , the entrepreneur provides the raw materials and an advance,
3504-542: The chairman. Under their governance, the company began a strategy of brand extension and full verticalization. From 1990 to 2020, Zegna held the majority in women’s fashion brand Agnona brand; it was subsequently sold to the Aimone family, another branch of the Zegna family, with the Zegna group keeping 30 percent. In 1991 Zegna was the first luxury brand to enter the China market, with a flagship store in Beijing; and one of
3577-653: The company's board of directors. Ermenegildo Zegna Group is the largest men's luxury fashion brand in the world by revenue. As of 2021, Ermenegildo Zegna operated over 500 retail stores across the world. In 2023, it reported revenues of €1,904.5 million and a net profit of €135.7 million. Approximately 35% of sales were generated in the EMEA region, 41% in APAC, 22% in North America, and 2% in Latin America. In 2021,
3650-402: The company, which was renamed Ermenegildo Zegna and Sons . In the mid-1950s, the company employed 1,400 workers. Ermenegildo Zegna's sons, Aldo and Angelo, took over the company in the mid-1960s. Under their guidance, the label both expanded its business to ready-made suits and established new plants and distribution networks abroad. In 1968, the first factory producing sleeve-units and trousers
3723-522: The distinctive manufacturing capabilities of luxury, ensuring excellence, quality, and innovation. In 2009, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired a majority stake in Tessitura di Novara, a company specialized in high-quality silk weaving. In 2012, it acquired a minority stake in Pettinatura di Verrone, a company specializing in the combing of fine wools and natural fibers. In 2014, Zegna acquired
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#17327916276043796-572: The earliest woven wool garments having only been dated to two to three thousand years later. Woolly sheep were introduced into Europe from the Near East in the early part of the 4th millennium BC. The oldest known European wool textile, c. 1500 BC , was preserved in a Danish bog . Prior to invention of shears—probably in the Iron Age —the wool was plucked out by hand or by bronze combs. In Roman times, wool, linen , and leather clothed
3869-579: The fact that since the 14th century, the presiding officer of the House of Lords has sat on the " Woolsack ", a chair stuffed with wool. Economies of scale were instituted in the Cistercian houses, which had accumulated great tracts of land during the 12th and early 13th centuries, when land prices were low and labor still scarce. Raw wool was baled and shipped from North Sea ports to the textile cities of Flanders , notably Ypres and Ghent , where it
3942-489: The family company, Monterubello SS. Since 2022, the company’s legal headquarters have been in the Netherlands, while its operational headquarters remain in Italy. The Ermenegildo Zegna Group operates in the market through three complementary brands: ZEGNA, Thom Browne, and TOM FORD FASHION. ZEGNA was founded in 1910 as a textile company (“Lanificio Zegna”). Formerly known as Ermenegildo Zegna , in 2021, in parallel with
4015-577: The first to access the Indian market. In 2008, the Group established its new headquarters in Milan, in a building designed by architects Antonio Citterio and Gianmaria Beretta. Starting from the late 1990s, the Group has undertaken a series of acquisitions of Italian and foreign companies that have expanded its business scope and now form the “Filiera” , a unique, company-owned and controlled entity, comprising selected Italian textile producers, integrated with
4088-457: The global textile market, but its value is higher owing to dyeing and other modifications of the material. Australia is a leading producer of wool which is mostly from Merino sheep but has been eclipsed by China in terms of total weight. New Zealand (2016) is the third-largest producer of wool, and the largest producer of crossbred wool. Breeds such as Lincoln , Romney , Drysdale , and Elliotdale produce coarser fibers, and wool from these sheep
4161-458: The hair part of the fleece is called kemp . The relative amounts of kemp to wool vary from breed to breed and make some fleeces more desirable for spinning , felting , or carding into batts for quilts or other insulating products, including the famous tweed cloth of Scotland . Wool fibers readily absorb moisture , but are not hollow. Wool can absorb almost one-third of its own weight in water. Wool absorbs sound like many other fabrics. It
4234-650: The lanolin left intact through the use of gentler detergents. This semigrease wool can be worked into yarn and knitted into particularly water-resistant mittens or sweaters , such as those of the Aran Island fishermen. Lanolin removed from wool is widely used in cosmetic products such as hand creams . Raw wool has many impurities; vegetable matter, sand, dirt and yolk which is a mixture of suint (sweat), grease, urine stains and dung locks. The sheep's body yields many types of wool with differing strengths, thicknesses, length of staple and impurities. The raw wool (greasy)
4307-688: The majority of Achill, an Australian wool farm counting about 12,500 sheep in its flock. In 2016, the Group acquired a majority stake in Bonotto, a high-end textile manufacturer based in Molvena, Vicenza , giving the Group the possibility to explore new areas such as furnishing and experimental fabrics. Two years later, Zegna – through its subsidiary ZECA company – took over the historic Cappellificio Cervo hat-maker. In 2018, Zegna – already present in India with three stores – together with Reliance, acquired
4380-529: The majority shareholding in Filati Biagioli Modesto, a company specialized in cashmere and other noble yarns. Zegna CEO Gildo Zegna was appointed chairman. Founded in 1934 in Monza , it specializes in the creation of high-quality knitwear. In a joint operation in 2023, Zegna and Prada each acquired a 15% stake in the company. According to the agreement, Gildo Zegna and Patrizio Bertelli joined
4453-413: The microscopic barbs on the surface of wool fibers hook together. Felting generally comes under two main areas, dry felting and wet felting. Wet felting occurs when water and a lubricant (especially an alkali such as soap) are applied to the wool which is then agitated until the fibers mix and bond together. Temperature shock while damp or wet accentuates the felting process. Some natural felting can occur on
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#17327916276044526-623: The production of wool, such as mulesing . About 85% of wool sold in Australia is sold by open cry auction . The British Wool Marketing Board operates a central marketing system for UK fleece wool with the aim of achieving the best possible net returns for farmers. Less than half of New Zealand's wool is sold at auction, while around 45% of farmers sell wool directly to private buyers and end-users. United States sheep producers market wool with private or cooperative wool warehouses, but wool pools are common in many states. In some cases, wool
4599-594: The remainder being paid upon delivery of the product. Written contracts bound the artisans to specified terms. Fernand Braudel traces the appearance of the system in the 13th-century economic boom, quoting a document of 1275. The system effectively bypassed the guilds' restrictions. Before the flowering of the Renaissance , the Medici and other great banking houses of Florence had built their wealth and banking system on their textile industry based on wool, overseen by
4672-536: The role of Chief Creative Officer of the company. The brand is offered in some 300 stores in 40 countries; in 2021, it accounted for 20% of Group revenues. As of April 29, 2023, following completion of the acquisition of Tom Ford International , Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired from Estée Lauder the license for the Tom Ford brands for men’s and women’s lines, accessories, lingerie, fine jewelry, children’s clothing, home textiles, and design products. The contract has
4745-629: The strong natural wave present in each wool fiber as it is presented on the animal. Wool's crimp, and to a lesser degree scales, make it easier to spin the fleece by helping the individual fibers attach, so they stay together. Because of the crimp, wool fabrics have greater bulk than other textiles, and they hold air, which causes the fabric to retain heat. Wool has a high specific thermal resistance , so it impedes heat transfer in general. This effect has benefited desert peoples, as Bedouins and Tuaregs use wool clothes for insulation. The felting of wool occurs upon hammering or other mechanical agitation as
4818-592: The top level of fineness, character, color, and style as determined on the basis of a series of parameters in accordance with the original dictates of British wool as applied by the Australian Wool Exchange (AWEX) Council. Only a few dozen of the millions of bales auctioned every year can be classified and marked 1PP. In the United States, three classifications of wool are named in the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939. Wool
4891-498: The wool fibers shorter, the remanufactured fabric is inferior to the original. The recycled wool may be mixed with raw wool, wool noil , or another fiber such as cotton to increase the average fiber length. Such yarns are typically used as weft yarns with a cotton warp . This process was invented in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire and created a microeconomy in this area for many years. Worsted
4964-418: The wool. For example: Any wool finer than 25 microns can be used for garments, while coarser grades are used for outerwear or rugs. The finer the wool, the softer it is, while coarser grades are more durable and less prone to pilling . The finest Australian and New Zealand Merino wools are known as 1PP, which is the industry benchmark of excellence for Merino wool 16.9 microns and finer. This style represents
5037-542: Was at one time punishable by the cutting off of a hand. After the Restoration , fine English woolens began to compete with silks in the international market, partly aided by the Navigation Acts ; in 1699, the English crown forbade its American colonies to trade wool with anyone but England herself. A great deal of the value of woollen textiles was in the dyeing and finishing of the woven product. In each of
5110-717: Was developed using Australian Merino wool, and it enables woven products made from wool, such as suits, trousers, and skirts, to be cleaned using a domestic shower at home. In December 2006, the General Assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2009 to be the International Year of Natural Fibres , so as to raise the profile of wool and other natural fibers . Global wool production is about 2 million tonnes (2.2 million short tons) per year, of which 60% goes into apparel. Wool comprises ca 3% of
5183-479: Was dyed and worked up as cloth. At the time of the Black Death , English textile industries consumed about 10% of English wool production. The English textile trade grew during the 15th century, to the point where export of wool was discouraged. Over the centuries, various British laws controlled the wool trade or required the use of wool even in burials. The smuggling of wool out of the country, known as owling ,
5256-819: Was opened in Novara , followed by openings in Spain, Greece, and Switzerland. Sales and marketing departments were also established in France, Germany, the U.K., and the U.S. In 1972, Zegna launched its made-to-measure service called Su Misura . Zegna's attention to wool quality continued through 1960s and 1970s, as the company established the Wool Awards in Australia (1963) and the Mohair Trophy in South Africa (1970). The international development strategy run by
5329-596: Was sold for a seasonal record of AU$ 2690 per kilo during June 2008. This bale was produced by the Hillcreston Pinehill Partnership and measured 11.6 microns, 72.1% yield, and had a 43 newtons per kilotex strength measurement. The bale realized $ 247,480 and was exported to India. In 2007, a new wool suit was developed and sold in Japan that can be washed in the shower, and which dries off ready to wear within hours with no ironing required. The suit
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