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St. Mary's Cathedral, Hamburg

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The Bishop's Tower ( German : Bischofsturm ), or Bishop's Castle ( Bischofsburg ), is an archaeological site in the historic city center of Hamburg , Germany , containing the oldest known remains of a stone building in the city. The site includes the foundations of a circular tower and a well , originally believed to represent the 11th-century stone residence of Archbishop Adalbrand of Bremen . Later finds, however, disproved this theory and it is now considered to be part of a 12th-century defensive structure.

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107-611: Saint Mary's Cathedral in Hamburg (German: Sankt Mariendom , also Mariendom , or simply Dom or Domkirche , or Hamburger Dom ) was the cathedral of the ancient Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Hamburg (not to be confused with Hamburg's modern Archdiocese , est. 1994), which was merged in personal union with the Diocese of Bremen in 847, and later in real union to form the Archdiocese of Hamburg-Bremen , as of 1027. In 1180

214-662: A Gallicanist kind of independent Catholic Church of Ditmarsh in August 1523, denying Hamburg's capitular jurisdiction in all of Ditmarsh. The chapter could not regain the jurisdiction, including its share in ecclesiastical fees and fines levied in Ditmarsh. On request of the Senate of Hamburg Luther had sent Bugenhagen to the city. He developed the Lutheran Church Order for Hamburg in 1529. He first aimed at seizing

321-551: A firestorm which spread from the Hauptbahnhof (main railway station) and quickly moved south-east, completely destroying entire boroughs such as Hammerbrook , Billbrook and Hamm South . Thousands of people perished in these densely populated working class boroughs. The raids, codenamed Operation Gomorrah by the RAF , killed at least 42,600 civilians; the precise number is not known. About one million civilians were evacuated in

428-474: A fortified cathedral . Under Archbishop Adalbert of Hamburg (1043–1072) Hamburg-Bremen attained its greatest prosperity and later had its deepest troubles. Adalbert was after Hamburg-Bremen's upgrade to the rank of a Patriarchate of the North and failed completely. Hamburg was even dropped as part of the diocesan name. With the investiture of Archbishop Liemar the seat definitely moved to Bremen. However,

535-578: A 110 km (68 mi) estuary to the North Sea , on the mouth of the Alster and Bille . Hamburg is one of Germany's three city-states alongside Berlin and Bremen , and is surrounded by Schleswig-Holstein to the north and Lower Saxony to the south. The Port of Hamburg is Germany's largest and Europe's third-largest , after Rotterdam and Antwerp . The local dialect is a variant of Low Saxon . The official name reflects Hamburg's history as

642-575: A Lutheran proto-cathedral and the remaining endowment allowed financing excellent ecclesiastical music, making the proto-cathedral a frequented venue for Lutheran services accompanied by music. The incumbents of the Bremen See used to be themselves Lutherans since the accession of Administrator Henry of Saxe-Lauenburg in 1569. The Peace of Westphalia in 1648 transformed the Prince-Archbishopric of Bremen, an elective monarchy , into

749-633: A contract between Henry III and Hamburg's traders allowed them to establish a hanse in London. This was the first time in history that the word hanse was used for the trading guild of the Hanseatic League . In 1270, the solicitor of the senate of Hamburg , Jordan von Boitzenburg , wrote the first description of civil, criminal and procedural law for a city in Germany in the German language,

856-639: A district in Hamburg called the Portugiesenviertel  [ de ] (Portuguese quarter) where many Portuguese people settled and which has a variety of Portuguese restaurants, cafes and shops that attract many tourists. There are several statues, squares and streets in Hamburg that are named after Portuguese historical figures. These include the Vasco da Gama statue on the Kornhaus bridge, which

963-563: A figure of about 143,200 Muslim migrants in Hamburg, making up 8.4% percent of the population. As of 2021 , there were more than 50 mosques in the city, including the Ahmadiyya run Fazle Omar Mosque , which is the oldest in the city, and which hosts the Islamic Centre Hamburg . A Jewish community also exists. As of 2022, around 2,500 Jews live in Hamburg. The city of Hamburg is one of 16 German states , therefore

1070-580: A member of the medieval Hanseatic League and a free imperial city of the Holy Roman Empire . Before the 1871 unification of Germany , it was a fully sovereign city state , and before 1919 formed a civic republic headed constitutionally by a class of hereditary Grand Burghers or Hanseaten . Beset by disasters such as the Great Fire of Hamburg , North Sea flood of 1962 and military conflicts including World War II bombing raids ,

1177-481: A new influx from the migrant crisis. There is an area in Hamburg behind the central station where many Afghan restaurants and shops are located. Many carpet businesses in Speicherstadt are operated by Afghan traders, with Hamburg still a global leader in the trade of oriental rugs. Hamburg residents with a foreign citizenship as of 31 December 2016 is as follows: As elsewhere in Germany, Standard German

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1284-466: A town of around 500 inhabitants. In 1030, King Mieszko II Lambert of Poland burned down the city. Valdemar II of Denmark raided and occupied Hamburg in 1201 and in 1214. The Black Death killed at least 60% of the population in 1350. Hamburg experienced several great fires in the medieval period. In 1189, by imperial charter, Frederick I "Barbarossa" granted Hamburg the status of a Free Imperial City and tax-free access (or free-trade zone ) up

1391-487: A veil before the early history of the [archbishopric of] Hamburg-Bremen." Results of archeological excavations could not clarify the succession of early cathedral buildings before 1035. A wooden mission church is reported for 831. Pope Gregory IV appointed the Benedictine monk Ansgar as first archbishop as of 834. After the looting of Hamburg and the destruction of the church by Vikings under Horik I in 845

1498-573: Is a major international and domestic tourist destination . The Speicherstadt and Kontorhausviertel were declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO in 2015. Hamburg's rivers and canals are crossed by around 2,500 bridges, making it the city with the highest number of bridges in Europe, and with 5 of the world's 29 tallest churches standing in Hamburg , it is also the city with the highest number of churches surpassing 100 metres (330 ft) worldwide. Aside from its rich architectural heritage,

1605-413: Is a stone circle of boulders with an outer diameter of 19 metres (62 ft) and an inner diameter of 11 metres (36 ft). The majority of these stones have a diameter of 1 metre (3.3 ft) or more. On the west side was a water well with a depth of 4 metres (13 ft), a diameter of 4.4 metres (14 ft), and was made of field stones roughly 50 centimetres (20 in) in diameter. A showroom

1712-674: Is at a sheltered natural harbour on the southern fanning-out of the Jutland Peninsula , between Continental Europe to the south and Scandinavia to the north, with the North Sea to the west and the Baltic Sea to the northeast. It is on the River Elbe at its confluence with the Alster and Bille . The city centre is around the Binnenalster ("Inner Alster") and Außenalster ("Outer Alster"), both formed by damming

1819-533: Is estimated to be at the site of today's Domplatz . In 834 CE, Hamburg was designated as the seat of a bishopric . The first bishop, Ansgar , became known as the Apostle of the North. Two years later, Hamburg was united with Bremen as the Bishopric of Hamburg-Bremen . Hamburg was destroyed and occupied several times. In 845, 600 Viking ships sailed up the River Elbe and destroyed Hamburg, at that time

1926-421: Is spoken in Hamburg, but as typical for northern Germany, the original language of Hamburg is Low German , usually referred to as Hamborger Platt (German Hamburger Platt ) or Hamborgsch . Since large-scale standardisation of the German language beginning in earnest in the 18th century, various Low German-coloured dialects have developed (contact-varieties of German on Low Saxon substrates). Originally, there

2033-528: Is the second-largest city in Germany after Berlin and 6th-largest in the European Union with a population of over 1.9 million. The Hamburg Metropolitan Region has a population of over 5.1 million and is the eighth-largest metropolitan region by GDP in the European Union. At the southern tip of the Jutland Peninsula , Hamburg stands on the branching River Elbe at the head of

2140-543: The Hasselbrack at 116.2 metres (381 ft) AMSL . Hamburg borders the states of Schleswig-Holstein and Lower Saxony . Hamburg has an oceanic climate ( Köppen : Cfb ; Trewartha : Dobk ), influenced by its proximity to the coast and maritime influences that originate over the Atlantic Ocean. The location in the north of Germany provides extremes greater than typical marine climates, but definitely in

2247-608: The Holy Roman Empire in 1806, the Free Imperial City of Hamburg was not incorporated into a larger administrative area while retaining special privileges ( mediatised ), but became a sovereign state with the official title of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg . Hamburg was briefly annexed by Napoleon I to the First French Empire (1804–1814/1815). Russian forces under General Bennigsen finally freed

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2354-789: The International Tribunal for the Law of the Sea , the EU-LAC Foundation , and the UNESCO Institute for Lifelong Learning , multipartite international political conferences and summits such as Europe and China and the G20 . Former German chancellors Helmut Schmidt and Angela Merkel were both born in Hamburg. The former Mayor of Hamburg , Olaf Scholz , has been the current German chancellor since December 2021. Hamburg

2461-515: The Mayor of Hamburg 's office corresponds more to the role of a minister-president than to that of a city mayor. As a German state government , it is responsible for public education, correctional institutions and public safety; as a municipality, it is additionally responsible for libraries, recreational facilities, sanitation, water supply and welfare services. Since 1897, the seat of the government has been Hamburg City Hall (Hamburg Rathaus), with

2568-580: The Neuengamme concentration camp (about 25 km (16 mi) outside the city in the marshlands), mostly from epidemics and in the destruction of Kriegsmarine vessels housing evacuees at the end of the war. Systematic deportations of Jewish Germans and Gentile Germans of Jewish descent started on 18 October 1941. These were all directed to ghettos in Nazi-occupied Europe or to concentration camps . Most deported persons perished in

2675-555: The Ordeelbook ( Ordeel : sentence). On 10 August 1410, civil unrest forced a compromise (German: Rezeß , literally meaning: withdrawal). This is considered the first constitution of Hamburg . In 1356, the Matthiae-Mahl feast dinner for Hanseatic League cities was celebrated for the first time on 25 February, the first day of spring in medieval times. It continues today as the world's oldest ceremonial meal. In 1529,

2782-466: The burghers of Hamburg, gaining their vast majority by 1526, while most canons of the cathedral chapter rather clung to Catholicism, enjoying their extraterritorial status. Hamburg's Senate (city government) accounted for the new facts and adopted the new denomination in 1528. So when in October 1529, the senate – wielding its advowson – appointed Johannes Aepinus (d. 1553) as Lutheran pastor at

2889-516: The cathedral chapter of Hamburg persisted with several special rights. Around 1035 Archbishop Adalbrand of Bremen  [ de ] prompted the construction of a first cathedral from brick and his castle . In the same century St. Peter's Parish Church was established north of the cathedral compound. However, starting in 1245 Adalbrand's structure was replaced by a new early Gothic three-naved hall church erected by chapter and Prince-Archbishop Gebhard of Lippe  [ de ] , one of

2996-509: The hereditary monarchy of the Duchy of Bremen , in personal union with Sweden until 1712/15, since 1715 with the House of Hanover . Thus the immunity district turned into a ducal Bremian enclave in the city. The architect Ernst Georg Sonnin  [ de ] carried out maintenance works in 1759/1760. Due to the weak, unstable subsoil the cathedral tower was leaning, so Sonnin straightened

3103-507: The ius patronatus to all other Lutheran parish churches had no usage for an additional church, which did not even have the parishioners to maintain it. So in 1802, the Senate, always upholding the city's vital mercantile interests, ordered Hamburg's Gothic proto-cathedral to be pulled down, a decision which aroused no serious opposition within the city and which was carried out between 1804 and 1807. The stones were sold off or used to reinforce

3210-553: The sea shanty Hamborger Veermaster , written in the 19th century when Low German was used more frequently. Many toponyms and street names reflect Low Saxon vocabulary, partially even in Low Saxon spelling, which is not standardised, and to some part in forms adapted to Standard German. 65.2% of the population is not religious or adherent other religions than the Evangelical Church or Catholicism. In 2018, 24.9% of

3317-627: The 18th century. Since 1790 the pastorate of the proto-cathedral remained vacant. By the Reichsdeputationshauptschluss in 1803, the Duchy of Bremen ceded its cathedral immunity districts in Bremen  [ de ] and Hamburg ( Domfreiheit ), to these free imperial cities . With the neglect of the proto-cathedral by the ducal government it had dropped out of Hamburg's cultural life again. Hamburg's Senate , then holding

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3424-487: The Bremen Chapter again ignored the Hamburg capitulars, fearing their Danish partisanship and elected Gebhard of Lippe  [ de ] archbishop. In 1223 Archbishop Gebhard reconciled the Hamburg chapter and stipulated that three of its capitulars were enfranchised to elect with the Bremen chapter, to wit the provost , presiding the chapter, the dean (Domdechant) and the magister scholarum , in charge of

3531-730: The Ditmarsians founded a Franciscan Friary in Lunden to thank their then national saint patron Mary of Nazareth , fulfilling a vow taken before the Battle of Hemmingstedt in case they could defeat the Dano-Holsatian invaders, however, the Hamburg chapter demanded its say in appointing the prebendaries . After years of dispute, the Council of the 48 , the elected governing body of the farmers' republic of Ditmarsh , decided to found

3638-605: The Greater Church acquired the St. Luke Altar from the furnishings of the proto-cathedral, now presented in the second southern nave of St. James. Several 15th-century stained glass windows of the apostles were sold to the Catholic congregation of Ludwigslust and are now built in the quire of Ss. Helena and Andrew Church  [ de ] , erected 1803–1809. One of the cathedral bells survived. The Celsa , founded by

3745-413: The Hamburg region ( Hamburg Metropolitan Region ) is home to 5,107,429 living on 196/km (510/sq mi). There were 915,319 women and 945,440 men in Hamburg. For every 1,000 females, there were 1,033 males. In 2015, there were 19,768 births in Hamburg (of which 38.3% were to unmarried women); 6422 marriages and 3190 divorces, and 17,565 deaths. In the city, the population was spread out, with 16.1% under

3852-512: The Hamburg-Bremen See were usually titled Archbishop of Hamburg and Bishop of Bremen between 848 and 1072, thereafter Hamburg was mostly dropped as titular element, however, some later archbishops continued the tradition of naming both dioceses until 1258. The Lutheran incumbents holding the see since 1569, were officially titled Administrators , but, nevertheless, colloquially referred to as prince-archbishops. The cathedral chapter

3959-784: The Holocaust . By the end of 1942, the Jüdischer Religionsverband in Hamburg was dissolved as an independent legal entity and its remaining assets and staff were assumed by the Reich Association of Jews in Germany (District Northwest). On 10 June 1943, the Reich Security Main Office dissolved the association by a decree. The few remaining employees not somewhat protected by a mixed marriage were deported from Hamburg on 23 June to Theresienstadt , where most of them perished. The city

4066-642: The Lower Elbe into the North Sea. In 1265, an allegedly forged letter was presented to or by the Rath of Hamburg. This charter, along with Hamburg's proximity to the main trade routes of the North Sea and Baltic Sea , quickly made it a major port in Northern Europe. Its trade alliance with Lübeck in 1241 marks the origin and core of the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities. On 8 November 1266,

4173-567: The Obodrite destruction of Hamburg in 983 the chapter was dispersed. So Archbishop Unwan appointed a new chapter with twelve canons, with three each taken from Bremen Cathedral chapter, and the three colleges of Bücken , Harsefeld and Ramelsloh . In 1139 Archbishop Adalbero had fled the invasion of Rudolph II, Count of Stade and Frederick II, Count Palatine of Saxony  [ de ] , who destroyed Bremen, and established in Hamburg also appointing new capitular canons by 1140. With

4280-476: The Peace of Westphalia in 1648. On 18 October 1576 Adolf, Duke of Holstein-Gottorp seized a number of capitular endowments against a recurrent annuity paid until 1803. Endowments: Hamburg Hamburg ( German: [ˈhambʊʁk] , locally also [ˈhambʊɪ̯ç] ; Low Saxon : Hamborg [ˈhambɔːç] ), officially the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg ,

4387-479: The Peace of Westphalia the Prince-Archbishopric of Bremen had turned from an elective monarchy into the hereditary monarchy of the Duchy of Bremen . While the cathedral chapters of Bremen and Hamburg were not dissolved as such, they sharply lost influence because they used to be the election bodies of the incumbents of the see securing their privileges and endowments by election capitulations , which

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4494-775: The Reformation the lector primarius was combined with the superintendency of the Lutheran Church of Hamburg , first held by Superintendent Aepinus since 18 May 1532. The lector secundarius was combined with the Lutheran pastorate at the Dom. Smaller prebends were reserved to maintain church musicians and teachers. Known pastors were, among others, Johannes Freder  [ de ] (1540–1547), Paul von Eitzen  [ de ] (as of 1548), and Johann Heinrich Daniel Moldenhawer  [ de ] (1765–1790). With

4601-715: The River Alster to create lakes. The islands of Neuwerk , Scharhörn , and Nigehörn , 100 kilometres (60 mi) away in the Hamburg Wadden Sea National Park , are also part of the city of Hamburg. The neighbourhoods of Neuenfelde , Cranz , Francop and Finkenwerder are part of the Altes Land (old land) region, the largest contiguous fruit-producing region in Central Europe. Neugraben-Fischbek has Hamburg's highest elevation,

4708-598: The abuse of indulgences , but refused Luther's theses on his deathbed in December 1517. One canonicate, called magister scholarum, was in charge of the education at the cathedral school. 1499 Heinrich Banzkow  [ de ] served as magister scholarum, Johannes Saxonius  [ de ] was appointed magister scholarum in 1550. After the breakthrough of the Reformation canonicates were not necessarily bound to ecclesiastical offices any more, but often served to maintain educators, musicians or scientists. In 1513

4815-566: The afore-mentioned areas. Holsatian aristocracy and Hamburg's patriciate provided for most of the canons. At Archbishop Adalgar 's (888–909) instigation Pope Sergius III confirmed the amalgamation of the Diocese of Bremen with the Archdiocese of Hamburg to form the Archdiocese of Hamburg and Bremen, colloquially called Hamburg-Bremen , and by so doing he denied Cologne's claim as metropolis over Bremen. Sergius prohibited Hamburg's Chapter to found suffragan dioceses of its own. After

4922-418: The aftermath of the raids. While some of the boroughs destroyed were rebuilt as residential districts after the war, others such as Hammerbrook were entirely developed into office, retail and limited residential or industrial districts. The Hamburg Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery is in the greater Ohlsdorf Cemetery in the north of Hamburg. At least 42,900 people are thought to have perished in

5029-489: The age of 18, and 18.3% were 65 years of age or older. 356 people in Hamburg were over the age of 100. According to the Statistical Office for Hamburg and Schleswig-Holstein , the number of people with a migrant background is at 34% (631,246). Immigrants come from 200 countries. 5,891 people have acquired German cititzenship in 2016. In 2016, there were 1,021,666 households, of which 17.8% had children under

5136-403: The age of 18; 54.4% of all households were made up of singles. 25.6% of all households were single parent households. The average household size was 1.8. Hamburg has the largest Portuguese community in Germany with about 30,000 people with Portuguese heritage . Many Portuguese sailors and merchants came to Hamburg beginning in the 15th century due to its port . Since the 1970s, there has been

5243-503: The archdiocese gaining princely sovereignty as an imperial estate of the Holy Roman Empire in 1180, the compounds of the Hamburg and Bremen cathedrals with chapterhouses and capitular residential courts (German: Curien ) turned into Cathedral Immunity Districts (German: Domfreiheiten ), forming exclaves of the Prince-Archbishopric of Bremen of imperial immediacy . After the Bremen Cathedral chapter, overlooking

5350-533: The archdiocese was united with the Diocese of Bremen in 847. Hamburg remained the archiepiscopal seat. The deposed Pope Benedict V was carried off to Hamburg in 964 and placed under the care of Archbishop Adaldag . He became a deacon then but died in 965 or 966 and was buried in the cathedral. In 983 Prince Mstivoj of the Obodrites destroyed city and church. In 988 Benedict's remains were presumably transferred to Rome. Archbishop Unwan started reconstructing

5457-528: The archi episcopal see . 39 white benches indicate the likely locations of the former columns of the 5-naved main hall. A single found fundament of one of them can be seen through a glass screen. In 1994 a new Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Hamburg was founded. On this occasion the 1893-erected Catholic St. Mary's Church in Sankt Georg neighbourhood became the New St. Mary's Cathedral . The incumbents of

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5564-512: The bell founder Gerhard van Wou in his workshop on Glockengießerwall in 1487, was bought in 1804 by the Lutheran congregation of St. Nicholas Church  [ de ] in Altengamme , now a part of Hamburg. Remnants of Pope Benedict V 's cenotaph , which was erected around 1330, but removed in 1782, have been found, besides other findings, in the excavation campaigns (1947–1957, 1980–1987 and 2005–2007). A fair held in or in front of

5671-593: The boroughs and quarters have been rearranged several times. Each borough is governed by a Borough Council (German: Bezirksversammlung ) and administered by a Municipal Administrator (German: Bezirksamtsleiter ). The boroughs are not independent municipalities: their power is limited and subordinate to the Senate of Hamburg . The borough administrator is elected by the Borough Council and thereafter requires confirmation and appointment by Hamburg's Senate. The quarters have no governing bodies of their own. Since

5778-433: The cantorate from 1682 to 1685. Friedrich Nicolaus Bruhns , succeeding Nicolaus Adam Strungk in charge of the Hamburger Ratsmusik (Music for the Hamburg Senate) in 1682, became canonicus minor and cathedral cantor in 1687. Johann Mattheson , diplomat, musician, music theoretician, and cathedral cantor between 1715 and 1728 was the first author to publish on Johann Sebastian Bach . Deafness forced Mattheson to retire. He

5885-711: The category due to the prevailing westerlies. Nearby wetlands enjoy a maritime temperate climate. The amount of snowfall has varied greatly in recent decades. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, heavy snowfall sometimes occurred, the winters of recent years have been less cold, with snowfall just a few days per year. The warmest months are June, July, and August, with high temperatures of 20.1 to 22.5 °C (68.2 to 72.5 °F). The coldest are December, January, and February, with low temperatures of −0.3 to 1.0 °C (31.5 to 33.8 °F). The annual extreme temperatures range from −29.1 °C (−20.4 °F) on 13 February 1940, to 40.1 °C (104.2 °F) on 20 July 2022 , and

5992-423: The cathedral compound turned into the cathedral close (German: Domfreiheit ; i.e. cathedral immunity district), forming an exclave of the Prince-Archbishopric of Bremen within the city of Hamburg. By the Reformation the concathedral was converted into a Lutheran church. The cathedral immunity district , since 1648 an exclave of the Duchy of Bremen , was seized by Hamburg in 1803. The city then prompted

6099-410: The cathedral site remained empty until Carl Ludwig Wimmel and Franz Gustav Forsmann  [ de ] erected a new building between 1838 and 1840 for Hamburg's most renowned Gymnasium , the Gelehrtenschule des Johanneums . This building was later given to Hamburg's State and University Library  [ de ] , but destroyed in the Allied Bombing Operation Gomorrah in summer 1943. Since

6206-511: The cathedral was first recorded in 1329, at the beginning only at special feasts like Christmas, thus being one of the predecessors of today's Christmas markets . With the Reformation in the 16th century the fair was also held on other occasions. After the demolition of the cathedral (1804–1807), the fair, still named Hamburger Dom (literally in English: Hamburg Cathedral ) moved to Gänsemarkt square (geese market) in 1804, and takes place on Heiligengeistfeld since 1892. After its demolition

6313-450: The celebrated Philistinism of the Hamburg authorities. Five more medieval churches in the city were pulled down between 1807 and 1837. There was little interest in the valuable furnishings of the proto-cathedral. Few enthusiasts with interest in the history of art did not prevail as to rescuing the building. In order to make the biggest bargain not only the structures above earth have been demolished and sold as construction material but even

6420-415: The city embraced Lutheranism , and it received Reformed refugees from the Netherlands and France. When Jan van Valckenborgh introduced a second layer to the fortifications to protect against the Thirty Years' War in the seventeenth century, he extended Hamburg and created a "New Town" ( Neustadt ) whose street names still date from the grid system of roads he introduced. From the autumn of 1696 to

6527-403: The city from most of its hinterland and reduced Hamburg's global trade. Since German reunification in 1990, and the accession of several Central European and Baltic countries into the European Union in 2004, the Port of Hamburg has restarted ambitions for regaining its position as the region's largest deep-sea port for container shipping and its major commercial and trading centre. Hamburg

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6634-442: The city has managed to recover and emerge wealthier after each catastrophe. Major regional broadcaster NDR , the printing and publishing firm Gruner + Jahr and the newspapers Der Spiegel and Die Zeit are based in the city. Hamburg is the seat of Germany's oldest stock exchange and the world's oldest merchant bank , Berenberg Bank . Media, commercial, logistical, and industrial firms with significant locations in

6741-416: The city in 1814. Hamburg re-assumed its pre-1811 status as a city-state in 1814. The Vienna Congress of 1815 confirmed Hamburg's independence and it became one of 39 sovereign states of the German Confederation (1815–1866). In 1842, about a quarter of the inner city was destroyed in the " Great Fire ". The fire started on the night of 4 May and was not extinguished until 8 May. It destroyed three churches,

6848-536: The city include multinationals Airbus , Blohm + Voss , Aurubis , Beiersdorf , Lufthansa and Unilever . Hamburg is also a major European science, research, and education hub , with several universities and institutions, including the Deutsches Elektronen-Synchrotron Laboratory DESY . The city enjoys a very high quality of living, being ranked 19th in the 2019 Mercer Quality of Living Survey. Hamburg hosts specialists in world economics and international law, including consular and diplomatic missions such as

6955-434: The city is also home to notable cultural venues such as the Elbphilharmonie and Laeiszhalle concert halls. It gave birth to movements like Hamburger Schule and paved the way for bands including the Beatles . Hamburg is also known for several theatres and a variety of musical shows. St. Pauli 's Reeperbahn is among the best-known European red light districts. Claudius Ptolemy (2nd century AD) reported

7062-458: The city of Hamburg as diplomat, gained a canonicate of the lector primarius in 1493. In 1508 he advanced to Cathedral Dean (Domdechant) of the chapter. Krantz applied himself with zeal to the reform of ecclesiastical abuses, but, though opposed to various corruptions connected with Catholic church discipline, he had little sympathy with the drastic measures of John Wycliffe or Jan Hus . Krantz generally agreed with Martin Luther 's protest against

7169-399: The city. Hamburg was the departure port for many Germans and Eastern Europeans to emigrate to the United States in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Trading communities from all over the world established themselves there. A major outbreak of cholera in 1892 was badly handled by the city government, which retained an unusual degree of independence for a German city. About 8,600 died in

7276-443: The coalition broke apart on 28 November 2010. On 7 March 2011 Olaf Scholz ( SPD ) became mayor. After the 2015 election the SPD and the Alliance 90/The Greens formed a coalition. Hamburg is made up of seven boroughs (German: Bezirke ) and subdivided into 104 quarters (German: Stadtteile ). There are 181 localities (German: Ortsteile ). The urban organisation is regulated by the Constitution of Hamburg and several laws. Most of

7383-431: The concathedral remained mostly unchanged until its demolition by 1807. The tower was completed in 1443. In the early 16th century an additional hall, first mentioned as the Nige Gebuwte ( Low Saxon for new building) in 1520, was erected closing the adjacent cloister towards the north. This hall was presumably used for sermons , the actual cathedral for masses . The hall was later colloquially called Schappendom after

7490-415: The concathedral. A lawsuit in the matter was still pendent at the Imperial Chamber Court when after the Smalkaldic War and the subsequent Peace of Augsburg Emperor Ferdinand I brokered the Bremen Settlement in 1561. Two prebends , privately donated in the 15th century, were reserved for lectors ( lector primarius , secundarius ) in charge of the advanced theological training of the clergy. After

7597-414: The cupboards ( Low Saxon : Schapp[en] [pl.]  [ de ] ), which carpenters of Hamburg exhibited there. The traditional fayre at Christmas, recorded for the square in front of the cathedral since the 14th century, and continued as today's funfayre Hamburger Dom (literally in Hamburg Cathedral ), then used to take place within the Schappendom hall. Starting in 1522 Lutheranism spread among

7704-501: The demolition of the proto-cathedral between 1804 and 1807. The cathedral, in common Italo-Nordic tradition simply called Dom ( Italian : Duomo ), which is the synecdoche , used – pars pro toto – for most existing or former collegiate churches and cathedrals in Germany alike. The cathedral was situated in the section of the earliest settlement of Hamburg on a geest hill between the rivers Alster and Elbe near Speersort  [ de ] street. Today's St. Peter's Church

7811-489: The education at the cathedral school. Pope Honorius III confirmed this settlement in 1224, also affirming the continued existence of both chapters. Canons were distinguished as younger ( canonicus minor ) and older ( canonicus maior ) office holders. The distinction was also evidenced by lower and higher prebends. Johann Rode the Elder served as provost between 1457 and 1460. The known historian Albert Krantz , also serving

7918-483: The few incumbents of the united see looking for a balanced performance in Bremen and Hamburg, preferring the title Bishop of Hamburg when staying in the diocesan territory right of the Elbe, as is known from seals and documents. Prince-Archbishop Burchard Grelle consecrated the church as archdiocesan concathedral on 18 June 1329. By the end of the 14th century the concathedral was extended by two more naves . After this,

8025-677: The first name for the vicinity as Treva . The name Hamburg comes from the first permanent building on the site, a castle which the Emperor Charlemagne ordered constructed in AD 808. It rose on rocky terrain in a marsh between the River Alster and the River Elbe as a defence against Slavic incursion, and acquired the name Hammaburg , burg meaning castle or fort. The origin of the Hamma term remains uncertain, but its location

8132-514: The grave slabs and most of the fundaments have been dug out to be sold alike. The more than 370 slabs of sandstone have mostly been built in hydraulic structures along the many waterways in Hamburg, broken stones and rubble were used for dikes in Ochsenwerder and Spadenland . So archeological excavations in recent years could not even uncover the exact groundplan. The rescue of some furnishings we owe to Philipp Otto Runge , prevailing in

8239-493: The historic area, leading to the discovery that the tower's foundation coincided with the creation of a moat to the west, located right in front of the Heidenwall , a timber soil palisade known as the first fortification of Hamburg. With this information the dating was corrected to the 12th century. A possible interpretation is that the tower represents a side gate or a part of the city gate . The tower's foundation

8346-442: The historical origin of Hamburg. Bischofsturm The tower's foundations lie under a commercial building at the corner of Kreuslerstraße and Speersort in the immediate vicinity of St. Peter's Church . The area is a light geest , where the first settlement of Hamburg has been documented. The base of the tower was discovered on 30 August 1962 during demolition work for the St. Peter's Community Center. Initially it

8453-557: The incumbents had to issue as self-commitments to the laws and principles established until their accession. Hereditary monarchy opened the gate for absolutism in the Duchy of Bremen. The chapters turned from constitutive legislative bodies into subordinate administrative units receiving orders from the rulers. The last canon officiating as president of the chapter was the jurist Friedrich Johann Lorenz Meyer  [ de ] . Many church musicians were granted prebends or canonicates, traditionally one canon, titled cantor or precentor ,

8560-663: The largest German epidemic of the late 19th century, and the last major cholera epidemic in a major city of the Western world. Hamburg was a Gau within the administrative division of Nazi Germany from 1934 until 1945. During the Second World War , the Allied bombing of Hamburg devastated much of the city and the harbour. On 23 July 1943, the Royal Air Force and United States Army Air Force firebombing created

8667-583: The latest territorial reform of March 2008, the boroughs are Hamburg-Mitte , Altona , Eimsbüttel , Hamburg-Nord , Wandsbek , Bergedorf , and Harburg . Hamburg-Mitte ("Hamburg Centre") covers mostly the urban centre of the city and consists of the quarters Billbrook , Billstedt , Borgfelde , Finkenwerder , HafenCity , Hamm , Hammerbrook , Horn , Kleiner Grasbrook , Neuwerk , Rothenburgsort , St. Georg , St. Pauli , Steinwerder , Veddel , Waltershof , and Wilhelmsburg . The quarters Hamburg-Altstadt ("old town") and Neustadt ("new town") are

8774-453: The latter was measured at Hamburg-Neuwiedenthal Meteorological Station, on the same day, a high temperature record of 39.1 °C (102.4 °F) was recorded at Hamburg Airport . View climate chart 1986–2016 or 1960–1990 On 31 December 2016, there were 1,860,759 people registered as living in Hamburg in an area of 755.3 km (291.6 sq mi). The population density was 2,464/km (6,380/sq mi). The metropolitan area of

8881-585: The merchant republic of Hamburg with the argument, that they could be sold as well. So the Late Gothic cathedral altarpiece , created by Hamburg's famous artists Absolon Stumme and his stepson Hinrik Bornemann , however, only finished, after their deaths in 1499, by Wilm Dedeke were rescued and sold to East Prussia . In 1946 the altarpiece was nationalised and is now shown in the National Museum, Warsaw . The congregation of Hamburg's St. James

8988-444: The neighbouring St. Peter's Church, in order to introduce Johannes Bugenhagen 's Lutheran Church Order in the city, Aepinus contested with the prevailingly Catholic cathedral chapter. The extraterritorial status and the denominational opposition strengthened the perception of cathedral, chapter, and immunity district as alien element within the city. While almost all inhabitants outside the immunity district had become parishioners of

9095-598: The now Lutheran parish churches, the huge cathedral lacked a congregation. Between the Feast of the Assumption of Mary and December 1529 the city's militia barred churchgoers from access to the cathedral, given up after imperial protests. Furthermore, the capitular estates in Hamburg and spread all over the North Elbian diocesan area, forming the endowment to maintain canons and cathedral, were increasingly withheld by

9202-568: The office of the mayor, the meeting room for the Senate and the floor for the Hamburg Parliament . From 2001 until 2010, the mayor of Hamburg was Ole von Beust , who governed in Germany's first statewide "black-green" coalition, consisting of the conservative CDU Hamburg and the alternative GAL, which are Hamburg's regional wing of the Alliance 90/The Greens party. Von Beust was briefly succeeded by Christoph Ahlhaus in 2010, but

9309-1068: The population belonged to the North Elbian Evangelical Lutheran Church , the largest religious body, and 9.9% to the Roman Catholic Church . Hamburg is seat of one of the three bishops of the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Northern Germany and seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Hamburg . According to the publication Muslimisches Leben in Deutschland (" Muslim life in Germany "), an estimated 141,900 Muslim migrants (from nearly 50 countries of origin) lived in Hamburg in 2008. About three years later (May 2011) calculations based on census data for 21 countries of origin resulted in

9416-530: The quarters were former independent cities, towns or villages annexed into Hamburg proper. The last large annexation was done through the Greater Hamburg Act of 1937, when the cities Altona , Harburg , and Wandsbek were merged into the state of Hamburg. The Act of the Constitution and Administration of Hanseatic city of Hamburg established Hamburg as a state and a municipality. Some of

9523-529: The respective territorial rulers. Thus in May 1531 the chapter closed the cathedral and its maintenance was neglected. Meanwhile, the majority of the capitular canons had adopted Lutheranism and elected fellow faithful to eventual vacancies. The cathedral reopened as Lutheran place of worship in 1540. The disputes on capitular estates were regulated by the Bremen Settlement in 1561. The church turned into

9630-402: The revenues of concathedral and chapter in favour of the common chest of the urban parishes, financing pastors and teachers. The chapter would be dissolved and the released canons paid a life annuity. However, the then still steadfastly Catholic capitulars refused and were not to be forced due to their immunity and extraterritorial status. The dispute made many canons leave the city and shut down

9737-412: The rubble was cleared in 1955 the site remained again empty, crossed by a new thoroughfare named Domstraße (Cathedral Street). A recent project to rebuild the site with a modern glass steel complex has been dropped after civic protest in 2007. Since 2009 an archeological park covers the site. Steel elements indicate the former walls of the early fortified church supposed to have been the original form of

9844-412: The sea defenses along the Elbe; the funerary sculptures and monuments were broken up and used in the reconstruction of the city's rudimentary sewage system. The Senate was partly motivated by the desire to rid the city of an extraterritorial institution, but it is more than possible that the rise in rents and the high demand for housing at the time also played a role. In any case, the incident was typical of

9951-429: The second half of the 19th century when its population more than quadrupled to 800,000 as the growth of the city's Atlantic trade helped make it Europe's second-largest port. The Hamburg-America Line , with Albert Ballin as its director, became the world's largest transatlantic shipping company around the start of the 20th century. Shipping companies sailing to South America, Africa, India and East Asia were based in

10058-730: The separation of Church and State, freedom of the press, of assembly and association. Hamburg became a member of the North German Confederation (1866–1871) and of the German Empire (1871–1918), and maintained its self-ruling status during the Weimar Republic (1919–1933). Hamburg acceded to the German Customs Union or Zollverein in 1888, the last (along with Bremen) of the German states to join. The city experienced its fastest growth during

10165-669: The spring of 1697 the Company of Scotland trading to Africa and the Indies was active in Hamburg. While it was unsuccessful in raising capital locally, it commissioned the construction of four vessels in the port. The Caledonia , a ship of 600 tons with 56 guns, and the Instuaration (later renamed the St. Andrew ), a vessel of 350 tons, were launched in March 1697. Upon the dissolution of

10272-657: The three enfranchised Hamburg capitulars, had elected Valdemar of Denmark archbishop in 1207, Bremen's cathedral dean Burchard of Stumpenhusen , who had opposed this election, fled to Hamburg, then under Danish influence. King Valdemar II of Denmark , in enmity with his father's cousin Archbishop Valdemar, gained the Hamburg chapter to elect Burchard as anti-archbishop in early 1208. Lacking papal support King Valdemar II himself invested him as Archbishop Burchard I, however, only accepted in North Elbia. In 1219

10379-408: The tower, as he had done with other church towers in Hamburg, he even demonstrated the gathered public his new technique by reversing it to leaning and again straightening it. Since 1772 the city of Hamburg considered to buy the immunity district, however, not effectuating any changes by then. On the instigation of the ducal Bremian government the cathedral chapter sold its valuable library by the end of

10486-416: The town hall, and many other buildings, killing 51 people and leaving an estimated 20,000 homeless. Reconstruction took more than 40 years. After periodic political unrest, particularly in 1848 , Hamburg adopted in 1860 a semidemocratic constitution that provided for the election of the Senate, the governing body of the city-state, by adult taxpaying males. Other innovations included the separation of powers,

10593-408: Was a range of such Missingsch varieties, the best-known being the low-prestige ones of the working classes and the somewhat more bourgeois Hanseatendeutsch (Hanseatic German), although the term is used in appreciation. All of these are now moribund due to the influences of Standard German used by education and media. However, the former importance of Low German is indicated by several songs, such as

10700-602: Was assumed that displaced boulders from nearby Steinstraße had been found, which is believed to be the oldest street of the city of Hamburg, and an ancient trade route. But after further excavation the remaining foundations of the tower were uncovered. Until the 2008 excavations, it was thought to be the stone house of the Archbishop Adalbrand, built as a round tower and mentioned in the Hamburg church history of 1074 by Adam of Bremen . Further construction on St. Peter's Community Center enabled new studies of

10807-561: Was built for the tower's foundations and other artifacts in early 1969 in the basement of the newly completed community center (and later commercial building). After demolition in 2008 for the construction of the St. Petri-Hof building, the showroom was redesigned as a branch of the Hamburg Archaeological Museum . It is now freely accessible to visitors through a commercial bakery on the ground floor, which has also set up

10914-510: Was erected right north of the Dom, today's Domstraße crosses through the former site of the cathedral. Curienstraße recalls the location of the canons' courts. The early history of the Hamburg See and its first cathedral buildings is somewhat obscured. In different struggles on competences and privileges plenty of documents have been completely forged or counterfeited or backdated, in order to corroborate arguments. "These forgeries have drawn

11021-607: Was founded in 834 and its members, the canons (Domherr[en]) enjoyed personal immunity from jurisdiction of the secular local rulers. The chapter wielded the ecclesiastical jurisdiction in the North Elbian part of the archdiocese, to wit Hamburg, Ditmarsh , Holstein , and Stormarn . Thus until the breakthrough of the Reformation the chapter appointed the priests serving in the city's parishes. Cathedral, chapter and canonry were maintained by numerous prebends comprising urban real estate and feudal dues and soccage collected from dependent farmers in many so-called capitular villages in

11128-533: Was in charge of preparing and organising musical performances in the Dom. Since the Reformation the Senate of Hamburg furthered the cantorate of the Johanneum surpassing the church music of the Dom. At times both cantorates were held in personal union. Erasmus Sartorius  [ de ] , vicar at the Dom since 1604, was entrusted the cantorate of Johanneum in 1628. Cathedral cantor Thomas Selle officiated between 1642 and 1663. Johann Wolfgang Franck held

11235-484: Was succeeded by Reinhard Keiser , who became the cathedral precentor in 1728, and wrote largely church music there until his death in 1739. Between 1756 and 1762 Johann Valentin Görner served as cantor. The capitular endowment comprised 14 so-called capitular villages (Kapitelsdörfer) outside of then Hamburg, paying dues to the chapter. Following the Reformation the rulers of Holstein seized these villages, legitimised by

11342-590: Was suggested by Portuguese residents to bring visibility to the Portuguese community in Hamburg. Hamburg's Afghan community of about 50,000 people is the largest not only in Germany, but also in Europe. They first came to Hamburg in the 1970s before expanding during the Afghan conflict in the 1980s and 1990s where many Afghan migrants chose to live in Hamburg. After 2015 the Afghan population almost doubled due to

11449-556: Was surrendered to British Forces on 3 May 1945, in the Battle of Hamburg , three days after Adolf Hitler 's death. After the Second World War , Hamburg formed part of the British Zone of Occupation ; it became a state of West Germany in 1949. On 16 February 1962, a North Sea flood caused the Elbe to rise to an all-time high, inundating one-fifth of Hamburg and killing more than 300 people. The inner German border – only 50 kilometres (30 mi) east of Hamburg – separated

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