A perfumist is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a nose ( French : nez ) due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each one alone or in combination with others. They must also know how each reveals itself over time. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists , who compose smells and flavourants for commercial food products.
28-735: Jean Carles (12 January 1892 – 8 July 1966) was a French perfumer who worked in Roure Bertrand Fils et Justin Duppont in Grasse (now part of Givaudan ) in the early 20th century. He was the founder of the Roure Perfumery School ( French : De L'école de Parfumerie de Roure située à Grasse ) and served as its first director in 1946. Jean Carles was also the mentor of many perfumers including Monique Schlienger and Jacques Polge . Despite becoming anosmic towards
56-464: A BA (Bachelor of Arts) course in Business & Perfumery. Most perfumers are employed by large fragrance corporations including Mane , Robertet , Firmenich , IFF , Givaudan , Takasago , and Symrise . Some work exclusively for a perfume house or in their own companies, but these are not as common. The perfumer typically begins a project with a brief by their employer or a customer, typically
84-413: A fashion house or other large corporation . This will contain the specifications for the desired perfume, and will describe in often poetic or abstract terms what it should smell like or what feelings it should evoke, along with a maximum price per litre of the perfume oil concentrate. This allowance, along with the intended application of the perfume, will determine what aromatic ingredients will be used in
112-515: A leading employer for inclusion before 2025 and sourcing all materials and services in a way that protects the environment and people by 2030. Givaudan’s purpose goal areas are in line with its strategy and ambitions for 2025. Givaudan is a member of the European Flavour Association . Major competitors include Firmenich , International Flavors and Fragrances and Symrise . From its historic roots in Grasse in 1768 to
140-449: A partnership with e-retailer TMall to support growing local demand for fragrance products. The company’s purpose of ‘Creating for happier, healthier lives with love for nature. Let’s imagine together’ is focused in four domains: creations, nature, people and communities. The company's ambitions include doubling its business through creations that contribute to happier, healthier lives by 2030, becoming climate positive before 2050, becoming
168-603: A perfumery school, which trained a third of the world's creative perfumers. In 1948 the company acquired Ersolko SA, which transitioned Givaudan also into the flavor industry. In 1963, Givaudan was acquired by Roche and in 1964, Roche acquired one of Givaudan's competitors, Roure. Roure was founded in Grasse, France during 1820. In 1937 Roure created the first designer perfume: Shocking for Schiaparelli. Givaudan's original United States fragrance headquarters, in Teaneck, New Jersey,
196-598: A structure from the bottom up. First the base notes are blended, and then the process continues through the middle notes to the most volatile and fleeting top notes which are found at the head of a perfume, and which are the ones immediately smelled when a perfume is first sprayed. His creations included: Perfumer Most past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art, and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as technicians (in charge of blending formulas) or chemists. These people were usually given temporary jobs in
224-643: A technology that captures the chemical makeup of smell from living plants. The company has locations in Europe, Africa and the Middle East, North America, Latin America and Asia Pacific. In 2023, Givaudan had sales of CHF 6.9 billion. It is one of Switzerland's 30 biggest listed companies in terms of market capitalization. In 2021, Givaudan placed first on FoodTalks' Global Top 50 Food Flavours and Fragrances Companies list. In 2024, The Swiss group has announced
252-440: A training technique bearing his name (Jean Carles Method) for learning about natural and synthetic perfumery materials. Sixty of these odourants are arranged in a table format, which is organised by classes. Students first learn the contrasts between classes of odourants; floral, woody etc which are arranged in columns. They then proceed to compare and contrast the materials within each class, which are set out in rows. For example, in
280-466: The Seveso accident, Italy's worst ecological disaster, released a toxic cloud into the atmosphere. Italy's highest court awarded moral damages to the residents for anxiety incurred. Givaudan, the parent company of ICMESA paid EUR103.9 million (US$ 90.3 million) in cleanup costs and compensation to those who suffered physical injuries as a result of the incident. In November 2024, an explosion occurred at
308-574: The 1990s. On 22 November 2006, Givaudan announced the acquisition of Quest International to be completed Q1 2007. On 21 February 2007, the EU approved the merger of Givaudan and Quest, clearing the final regulatory hurdle for the merger after the United States authorities approved the merger earlier in the month. The merger deal closed on 2 March 2007. The acquisition makes Givaudan the global leader in both fine fragrances and consumer products; it
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#1732790393280336-763: The TasteSolutions Richness line of flavors. It also launched the Givaudan Foundation, and has a programme that works with patchouli and other grower collection networks to establish sustainable development practices, called the Innovative Naturals programme. Since 2014, Givaudan had acquired around 20 companies, among them Naturex, the cosmetics business of AMSilk, Albert Vieille, Fragrance Oils, and Golden Frog. In 2021, Givaudan acquired Louisville, Ky.-based dye and coloring manufacturer D.D. Williamson . In 2022, Givaudan,
364-610: The United States, UK, Dubai, Hong Kong, Germany, New Zealand, and Thailand. More recently, in 2002, another school was born, the Grasse Institute of Perfumery (G.I.P). Similarly here, candidates must have a foundation in chemistry or pharmacy to be accepted as students. Grasse itself is a world-renowned perfume centre. Givaudan , International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) and Symrise operate their own perfumery schools, but students must be employees and recommended by their managers. The University of Plymouth (UK) offers
392-513: The acquisition of Custom Essence in 2021, Givaudan has pursued a historic policy of invention and acquisition, of creativity, passion and innovation, enriching the world of scents and taste. The company was founded as a perfumery company in 1895 in Lyon, France by Leon and Xavier Givaudan. In 1898, Givaudan moved to Geneva, Switzerland and constructed a factory in Vernier . In 1946, Givaudan opened
420-442: The blends, say 3/7 oakmoss to patchouli, would be selected to form the basis of another series of experiments, which might be with vetiver for example. In this way a perfume would be composed in increments, and not all at once on a haphazard basis, as was often the way at the time. The relative volatility of perfumery materials was also investigated by Carles, and this allowed him to refine his method of perfume composition by building
448-407: The composition. The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple mixtures and will attempt to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief. After presenting the perfume mixtures to the customers, the perfumer may "win" the brief with their approval. They proceed to work with the customer, often with the direction provided by a panel or artistic director, which guides and edits
476-430: The end of his life, Carles created works such as Ma Griffe ( Carven ) and Miss Dior ( Christian Dior ) using only his memory of odours to guide him. His condition was only known to his son Marcel Carles, who assisted Jean by smelling and commenting on his creations. Due to this remarkable feat, Jean Carles is often compared to Beethoven who continued to compose music after becoming profoundly deaf. Carles also devised
504-406: The floral column there will be rose, jasmine etc, and in the row for rose, its constituents such as phenyl ethyl alcohol, geraniol etc will be listed. This is the most well known technique for memorising and understanding perfumery materials. It and its variants are still widely used to train novice perfumers. Jean Carles was the first to set about composing perfumes on a rational basis. Instead of
532-704: The industry. A direct entrance into the profession is rare, and those who do typically enter it through family contacts. Such apprenticeships last around three years. Until recently, professional schools open to the public did not exist. In 1970 ISIPCA became the first school in perfumery. Candidates must pass a demanding entrance examination, and must have taken university -level courses in organic chemistry . Since 1998 PerfumersWorld's school has offered formal and informal training through university courses at King Mongkut's University of Technology Thonburi Biotechnology faculty, at Chulalongkorn University Pharmacy faculty and through online courses and private workshops in
560-674: The mechanical engineering company Bühler , and Migros wanted to open the Cultured Food Innovation Hub in Kemptthal. Research was also to be carried out there on cultivated meat. On March 7, 2023, Givaudan confirmed that it was the target of an industry-wide investigation by European and Swiss authorities. Investigators were looking into a possible cartel in the supply of fragrances and fragrance ingredients. Companies face fines as much as 10% of their global turnover for violating EU antitrust rules. On July 10, 1976,
588-414: The modifications on the composition of the perfume. This process typically spans several months to several years, going through many iterations, and may involve cultural and public surveys to tailor a perfume to a particular market. The composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance ( shampoos , make-up , detergents , car interiors, etc.) or marketed directly to
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#1732790393280616-416: The names of the perfumers who composed them, and who were considered by his house as their authors. In the following decade, perfumers became an integral part of fragrance messaging and were increasingly placed in the spotlight. Givaudan Givaudan S.A. ( pronounced [ʒivodɑ̃] ) is a Swiss multinational manufacturer of flavours, fragrances and active cosmetic ingredients. As of 2008, it
644-413: The public as a fine fragrance . Alternatively, the perfumer may simply be inspired to create a perfume and produce something that later becomes marketable or wins a brief. This is more common in smaller or independent perfume houses. For a long time, perfumes were associated with the brand name on the bottle. In 2,000, Frédéric Malle was the first to include on the bottles of the perfumes he launched
672-436: The trial and error method he had observed as a student, he conducted many trials with pairs of materials to see how they would combine. Carles carried out numerous trials with oakmoss for example, combining it with different materials and in different ratios. This might involve, say, oak moss and patchouli mixed in the ratios of 1 oakmoss to 9 patchouli, 2 moss to 8 patchouli, 3 to 7 etc right up to 9 moss and 1 patchouli. One of
700-622: The world. In 2000 Givaudan-Roure was spun off by Roche as Givaudan and listed on the Swiss Stock Exchange (Code GIVN.VX) where it is part of the SMI , SLI and SPI . In 2002 Givaudan acquired FIS, the flavors division of Nestle , for which Nestle received a 10% stake in the company. The following year, Givaudan purchased the cheese flavor company IBF. In 2004 the company expanded its operations in China, which had been in place since
728-516: Was already the global leader in flavors and the acquisition of Quest International strengthens their position. The acquisition of Quest boosted Givaudan's sales by 42% from CHF 2,909 million in 2006 to CHF 4,132 million in 2007. In 2013 Nestle sold its share in Givaudan for $ 1.3 billion. By 2014 the company had about US$ 4.6 billion in revenues. That year, the company had its first acquisition since Quest, purchasing Soliance. Givaudan also released
756-531: Was built in 1972 from a design by Der Scutt, architect of the Trump Tower. The company later moved to East Hanover, New Jersey . In 1991 Givaudan and Roure were merged to form Givaudan-Roure. Also in 1991, the company bought Fritzsche, Dodge and Olcott. In 1997 Givaudan-Roure acquired another flavor company, Tastemaker, based in Cincinnati, Ohio . The merger made Givaudan the largest flavor company in
784-420: Was the world's largest company in the flavour and fragrance industry. The company's scents and flavours are developed for food and beverage makers, and also used in household goods, as well as grooming and personal care products and perfumes. The company has two business areas: Givaudan's flavours and fragrances are usually custom-made and sold under confidentiality agreements. Givaudan uses ScentTrek,
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