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54-575: A Jésuite is a triangular, flaky pastry filled with frangipane cream and topped with sliced almonds and powdered sugar. The pastry originated in France and the name refers to the triangular shape of a Jesuit 's hat. A similarly-named sweet pastry known in Portugal and Spain, the jesuíta , consists of puff pastry filled with custard. In Germany, Jesuitermützen are a custard-filled pastry traditionally cut into triangles. A similarly-named Uruguayan dish

108-559: A child, worked in a cheap restaurant. Later he became an apprentice to a leading Parisian pâtissier and quickly became known for his patisserie skills. He was deeply interested in architecture and was famous for his large pièces montées  – table decorations sculpted in sugar, depicting classical buildings. Working with leading chefs of the day, Carême extended his knowledge to cover all aspects of cooking, and became head chef to prominent people including Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord , Tsar Alexander I of Russia and

162-491: A daughter, Marie, with another woman, Agatha Guichardet. In addition to his skills as a pastry-cook, Carême became expert in the other branches of cookery. He was influenced by earlier cooks and food writers, and studied Vincent La Chapelle 's Le cuisinier moderne (1736), Joseph Menon's Soupers de la cour (1758) and Lémery 's Traité des alimens (1792). He worked for or alongside leading Parisian chefs; he later wrote: From 1803 to 1814 Carême worked as chef-pâtissier in

216-440: A discerning appreciation of food, but poor health prevented her from entertaining on the extensive scale that would fully occupy a chef of his standing. Lord Stewart successfully urged Carême to return to work for him. While working for Stewart, Carême introduced what became the international symbol of the chef: the toque hat. Until then, chefs had generally worn loose berets or cotton caps resembling nightcaps . Carême felt that

270-614: A good pastry because they used oil in the cooking process, and oil causes the pastry to lose its stiffness. In the medieval cuisine of Northern Europe , pastry chefs were able to produce nice, stiff pastries because they cooked with shortening and butter. Some incomplete lists of ingredients have been found in medieval cookbooks, but no full, detailed versions. There were stiff, empty pastries called coffins or ' huff paste ', that were eaten by servants only and included an egg yolk glaze to help make them more enjoyable to consume. Medieval pastries also included small tarts to add richness. It

324-490: A house that would take him in. In the words of a biographer who accepts this version of events: More recent biographers have raised the possibility that this is a fanciful account, and that the family simply arranged for the gargotier to take the boy on. Accounts differ also about the next stage of Carême's early years. Some biographers portray him as remaining at the gargote for more than five years, sweeping, washing, running errands, serving at table, and later, when he

378-400: A lot of time and focus. Presentation is an important aspect of pastry and dessert preparation. The job is often physically demanding, requiring attention to detail and long hours. Pastry chefs are also responsible for creating new recipes to put on the menu, and they work in restaurants, bistros, large hotels, casinos and bakeries. Pastry baking is usually done in an area slightly separate from

432-435: A lower level of protein than all-purpose or bread flours. Lard or suet work well because they have a coarse, crystalline structure that is very effective. Using unclarified butter does not work well because of its water content; clarified butter , or ghee , which is virtually water-free, is better, but shortcrust pastry using only butter may develop an inferior texture. If the fat is melted with hot water or if liquid oil

486-461: A position of responsibility. Bailly allowed him to take two afternoons off each week to visit the old royal library (subsequently the Bibliothèque nationale ) across the road from the restaurant. He read voraciously − not only cookery books from other countries and different eras, but also works about his other great interest, architecture. Of the latter he later wrote: Bailly was conscious of

540-1050: A regular savory dim sum menu item. In the 19th century, the British brought western-style pastry to the Far East , though it would be the French-influenced Maxim in the 1950s that made western pastry popular in Chinese-speaking regions starting with Hong Kong . The term "western cake" (西餅) is used to refer to western pastry, otherwise Chinese pastry is assumed. Other Asian countries such as Korea prepare traditional pastry-confections such as tteok , hangwa , and yaksik with flour, rice, fruits, and regional specific ingredients to make unique desserts. Japan also has specialized pastry-confections better known as mochi and manjū . Pastry-confections that originate in Asia are clearly distinct from those that originate in

594-415: A simple meal, well-prepared, and not try to cover the bourgeois table with an imitation of the rich". He reacted against some traditional practices, such as garnishing meat with fish and vice versa , and he either invented or refined several features of French cookery, including choux pastry , vol-au-vents, profiteroles , and mille-feuilles. Carême's influence continued after his death; his approach

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648-416: A single pièce montée details from several widely differing architectural eras and styles. After staying with Bailly for three years Carême joined another celebrated pâtissier, Gendron, who was based in the rue des Petits-Champs . Carême liked working for Gendron, where his talents were appreciated by prestigious customers including the finance minister, the marquis de Barbé-Marbois . Carême benefited from

702-498: A temporary halt, leaving Carême's father struggling to feed the family. Carême went to work at an early age at a Parisian gargote  – the most basic and modest kind of restaurant – thought to have been called À la fricassee du lapin . There have been two contrasting explanations of how this came about. By Carême's account his father took him from home in the latter part of 1792 and sent him on his way alone, bidding him, with some touching words, to find

756-548: Is a stub . You can help Misplaced Pages by expanding it . Pastry The French word pâtisserie is also used in English (with or without the accent) for many of the same foods, as well as the set of techniques used to make them. Originally, the French word pastisserie referred to anything, such as a meat pie, made in dough ( paste , later pâte ) and not typically a luxurious or sweet product. This meaning still persisted in

810-406: Is credited with codifying the key sauces – the mother sauces , or in his phrase, the grandes sauces  – on which classic French haute cuisine is based. His recipes for Velouté , Béchamel , Allemande , and Espagnole became standard for French chefs of his day. His classifications were retained, with modifications, by later chefs including Auguste Escoffier , and

864-464: Is mention of sweetmeats, including small pastries filled with fruit. Roman cuisine used flour, oil, and water to make pastries that were used to cover meats and fowls during baking in order to keep in the juices, but the pastry was not meant to be eaten. A pastry that was meant to be eaten was a richer pastry that was made into small pastries containing eggs or little birds and that were often served at banquets. Greeks and Romans both struggled in making

918-423: Is the jesuita , a baked ham and cheese sandwich with a puff pastry crust commonly eaten in parts of South America and considered a classic of Argentinian cuisine , where it is known as a fosforito. In Argentina, jesuita is a very popular dish in many provinces. Rectangular in shape, it's made from puff pastry stuffed with ham and cheese, and covered with a sweet crust. This French dessert -related article

972-455: Is used, the thin oily layer between the grains offers less of an obstacle to gluten formation and the resulting pastry is tougher. A good pastry is light and airy and fatty, but firm enough to support the weight of the filling. When making a shortcrust pastry , care must be taken to blend the fat and flour thoroughly before adding any liquid---to ensure that the flour granules are adequately coated with fat and less likely to develop gluten . On

1026-551: The Prince Regent in Britain. He codified and to some extent simplified classical French cookery, insisted on the finest and most expensive ingredients, and was regarded as the foremost chef of his day. Carême wrote a series of books, lavishly illustrated, intended to pass his skills on to other chefs providing grande cuisine for the elite of French, and other, society. His influence continued after his death; his approach

1080-528: The 19th Century". It was to be a five-volume work, extensively illustrated; he lived to complete the first three volumes. His pupil, Armand Plumerey, added the remaining two volumes that Carême had planned. Carême died, mentally alert to the end, at his Paris home on 12 January 1833, aged 48 or 49. He was buried in the Montmartre Cemetery . Carême was known as "the king of chefs and the chef of kings". Wheaton comments that although he remains

1134-413: The British ambassador to Vienna, Carême decided to take up the tsar's offer, and he went by sea to St Petersburg in mid-1819. The timing was unfortunate for him: as he arrived, the tsar was leaving for a forty-day visit to Archangel . In his absence, Carême spent time exploring the architecture of St Petersburg, which he found inspiring – "the most beautiful city in the world". Otherwise, by

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1188-555: The English weather, particularly the fogs, which exacerbated the respiratory problems he had after years of working in smoky kitchens. He found the prince's domestic staff unfriendly, even the French footmen, and he later wrote that he endured l'ennui extrême and mal du pays  – he was bored and homesick. He returned to France in late 1817 with no firm plans for his immediate future. Tsar Alexander returned to Paris in 1818, en route to an international congress at Aix-la-Chapelle . Carême's friend Muller, comptroller of

1242-614: The New World starting in the 16th century. Many culinary historians consider French pastry chef Antonin Carême (1784–1833) to have been the first great master of pastry making in modern times. Pastry-making has a strong tradition in many parts of Asia. Chinese pastry is made from rice, or different types of flour, with fruit, sweet bean paste or sesame -based fillings. The mooncakes are part of Chinese Mid Autumn Festival traditions, while cha siu bao , steamed or baked pork buns, are

1296-497: The army, Carême was not called up; Talleyrand may have secured an exemption for him, but that is not certain. After the defeat of Napoleon in 1814, the British and Russians occupied Paris. Talleyrand, anxious to be on friendly terms with the allies, invited Tsar Alexander I to stay with him and tasked Carême with delighting his guest with a continual series of fine meals. According to the biographer Marie-Pierre Rey, "Talleyrand's generous hospitality undoubtedly had positive effects on

1350-440: The concept of mother sauces continued to be acknowledged by subsequent generations of cooks, including James Beard and Julia Child . The work of Carême was aimed at the elite of French and other societies. The food writer Stephen Mennell writes that Carême's cuisine was not merely haute but grande , and in one of his books the chef advised people of lesser means not to attempt his elaborate style of cooking: "Better to serve

1404-425: The cooking of the food, but its service as well. Carême's last salaried post came in 1823 as chef to the banker James Rothschild and his wife Betty . Rothschild was by far the richest man in France, and Carême was as happy to work for a nouveau-riche employer as for royalty. Rothschild had bought the former house of Napoleon's stepdaughter, Hortense de Beauharnais , at 19 rue Lafitte (a few hundred metres from

1458-425: The dough and repeatedly folding and rolling it to achieve the perfect puff pastry . He gained outstanding skill at this, and later put it to use in two confections with which he became particularly associated: the vol-au-vent and mille-feuille . One of Bailly's most celebrated offerings was gâteau de plomb ; Carême suggested how to make it lighter, and invented decorations with which to top it. He steadily rose to

1512-541: The flexible conditions offered by Gendron, being allowed to freelance, catering for important banquets. In 1803 he opened his own shop in the rue de la Paix , trading there for a decade. In tandem with running his shop he built what one biographer calls "an intermittent but spectacular career", first as a specialist pastry-cook and later as chef de cuisine , at the great imperial , social, and governmental banquets. In October 1808, Carême married Henriette Sophy Mahy de Chitenay. They had no children, although Carême later had

1566-604: The food writer Barbara Wheaton calls "more or less sketchy instructions" for executing them. In 1816 Carême accepted the position of chef to the Prince Regent , based at Carlton House in London and the Royal Pavilion in Brighton . This was Carême's first venture outside France. He was paid an unprecedentedly high salary, and the prince was full of praise for his creations, but Carême was unhappy in his post. He hated

1620-404: The influential Almanach des Gourmands , and with customers including the French foreign minister, Talleyrand . Bailly's establishment was within a hundred paces of the fashionable and bustling Palais-Royal , and among Carême's early tasks was to go there to encourage visitors to come to his employer's restaurant. As an apprentice pastry-cook Carême began as a tourier , or turner, working

1674-454: The kitchens of Talleyrand at the Hôtel de Galliffet , under the head chef, Boucher. He continued to learn about the arts of cookery in general, and was engaged to cater for special events such as the festivities for the marriage of Jérôme Bonaparte to Catharina of Württemberg (1807) and of that of Napoleon to Marie-Louise of Austria (1810). Although of an age liable for conscription into

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1728-619: The latter were reminiscent of the sickroom and "made us look ill" whereas the appearance of a chef should "announce the man in good health". The toque was quickly taken up by chefs in Vienna, and then in Paris and elsewhere. Carême continued to write, and in 1821 he published two volumes of his thoughts on architecture. Projets d'architecture dédiés a Alexandre 1 contained drawings of his suggestions for new buildings in St Petersburg, and

1782-426: The library. He is credited with saying, later, "The fine arts are five in number: music, painting, sculpture, poetry and architecture – of which the principal branch is confectionery". His constructions, featuring Greek columns and temples, Chinese pagodas and Egyptian pyramids, attracted widespread attention and approbation. His enthusiasm, then and later in his career, sometimes led him to conflate in

1836-499: The main kitchen. This section of the kitchen is in charge of making pastries, desserts, and other baked goods. Antonin Car%C3%AAme Marie-Antoine Carême ( French: [maʁi ɑ̃twan kaʁɛm] ; 8 June 1783 or 1784  – 12 January 1833), known as Antonin Carême , was a leading French chef of the early 19th century. Carême was born in Paris to a poor family and, when still

1890-573: The most famous of 19th-century French chefs, there are two differing schools of thought about him. "Gastronomes and food writers have praised him as a great genius of haute cuisine ", and have held him up as "an outstanding example of how a lowly apprentice, of a humble background, could rise to the topmost pinnacle of his profession". An opposing view is that he was conceited, his prose inelegant, his menus "pretentious and heavy" and his piéces montées an extravagant waste of ingredients. In Wheaton's judgement "the truth lies somewhere in between". Carême

1944-715: The most powerful man in Europe, reflecting his employer's status with suitable culinary magnificence. The following year, after Napoleon's brief return and final defeat at Waterloo , Alexander returned to Paris, and again secured Carême's services. When the tsar assembled his troops for a grand review at Châlons-sur-Marne , Carême had to provide three banquets for 300 people each, despite enormous logistical difficulties. There were few supplies available locally and food, wines, linens, glassware and even herds of cattle and flocks of sheep had to be transported from Paris, over 80 miles (130 km) away. In addition, Carême had to cope with

1998-487: The need to innovate and attract new custom. He wanted eye-catching pièces montées  – elaborate displays of patisserie – in his windows. Sculpting in sugar paste had been well known in the Ancien Régime but had become neglected after the revolution. Carême helped to revive the art, creating croquembouches and extravagant showpieces based on the ancient architecture he had studied in

2052-499: The nineteenth century, though by then the term more often referred to the sweet and often ornate confections implied today. The precise definition of the term pastry varies based on location and culture. Common doughs used to make pastries include filo dough , puff pastry , choux pastry , short dough , pâte brisée , pâte sucrée , and other enriched doughs. Pastries tend to have a delicate texture, often flaky or crumbly, and rich flavor —simple breads are thus excluded from

2106-481: The other hand, overmixing results in long gluten strands that toughen the pastry. In other types of pastry such as Danish pastry and croissants , the characteristic flaky texture is achieved by repeatedly rolling out a dough similar to yeast bread dough, spreading it with butter, and folding it to produce many thin layers. Pastry chefs use a combination of culinary ability and creativity for baking, decoration, and flavoring with ingredients. Many baked goods require

2160-527: The pastry category. Pastries also tend to be baked. The European tradition of pastry-making is often traced back to the shortcrust era of flaky doughs that were in use throughout the Mediterranean in ancient times. In the ancient Mediterranean, the Romans, Greeks, and Phoenicians all had filo-style pastries in their culinary traditions. In the plays of Aristophanes , written in the 5th century BC, there

2214-470: The rue Vivienne, where Carême had been apprenticed). The Rothschilds paid Carême a large salary, and allowed him substantial time off to continue writing his books. He published Le Cuisinier parisien in 1828. With him in charge of the catering, the Rothschilds' house became the focal point of Parisian high society, and Carême's name was continually featured in the press. By the end of the decade it

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2268-432: The second volume, Projets d'architecture pour l'embellisement de Paris , did the same for his native city. The following year he returned to the subject of catering in his Le maître d'hotel français , comparing old and new cuisine and detailing seasonal menus that he had presented in Paris, St Petersburg, London and Vienna. The title reflected Carême's firm conviction that the head chef should control and supervise not only

2322-476: The sight of a grand table served à la française ?" Despite Carême's opposition, service à la russe gradually supplanted the old French service throughout Europe as the 19th century progressed. In 1815 Carême published his first books. Le Pâtissier royal parisien was an illustrated two-volume compilation of recipes for a skilled pastry-cook. Le Pâtissier pittoresque focused on piéces montées , with over 100 of Carême's drawings of designs, together with what

2376-472: The time the tsar returned, Carême was disenchanted with Russia, its food and the arrangements at the court. He left at the end of August. On his return to Paris, Carême became head chef to Princess Catherine Bagration , a distant cousin of the tsar and widow of the celebrated general Pyotr Bagration , killed at the Battle of Borodino in 1812. Carême enjoyed working for the princess, who lived in style and had

2430-560: The tsar's household (and dedicatee of Le Pâtissier pittoresque ), convinced Alexander that having Carême cook for the Russian delegation would enhance its standing, and approached him with the proposal that he should work for the tsar at Aix and then travel with him to Russia. Carême agreed to go to Aix, with a handsome salary and lavish budget, but declined to go on to Russia. After briefly working in Austria and England for Lord Stewart ,

2484-439: The tsar's mood and the magnanimity that he showed to the French state". After staying with Talleyrand for some weeks, the tsar took up residence in the Élysée Palace, and requested that Carême should be his head chef there during his stay. The biographer Georges Bernier ( fr ) writes that this appointment put Carême at the pinnacle of his profession. Already a renowned pastry-cook, he had risen further, to be chef de cuisine to

2538-447: The tsar's preference for Russian service  – a succession of individual courses – rather than the traditional French service , in which numerous dishes were set out on the table on hot plates and kept under cloches to keep warm. In Carême's view, "This [Russian] manner of service is assuredly favourable to good cheer; but our French service is more elegant and sumptuous. Is there anything more imposing than

2592-479: The west, which are generally much sweeter. Different kinds of pastry doughs are made by utilizing the natural characteristics of wheat flour and certain fats. When wheat flour is mixed with water and kneaded into plain dough, it develops strands of gluten, which are what make bread tough and elastic. In a typical pastry, however, this toughness is unwanted, so fat or oil is added to slow down the development of gluten. Pastry flour can also be used, since it typically has

2646-482: The year as either 1783 or 1784. He was one of the many children of Marie-Jeanne Pascal and Jean-Gilbert Carême. The father was a construction worker, and the family lived in what Carême's biographers Philippe Alexandre and Béatrix de l'Aulnoit call a baraque  – a shack – in what was then a poor part of Paris, near the rue du Bac and the rue de Sèvres. The French Revolution , starting in 1789, brought large-scale building work in Paris to

2700-566: Was clear to his employers and to Carême that his health was in decline. The Rothschilds offered him land on which to retire on their country estate, but he preferred to remain in Paris. He declined a final effort by the former Prince Regent, now George IV, to tempt him back to England, and retired to his house in the rue Neuve-Saint-Roch near the Tuileries . In retirement, Carême worked on his last project, L'Art de la cuisine française au XIX siécle  – "The Art of French Cookery in

2754-435: Was considered mature enough, helping in the preparation of food. A conflicting account is that he left after a few months and moved to work for a baker in the rue Saint-Honoré , known as Père Ducrest. A contemporary recorded after Carême's death that the boy was to be seen hurrying through the streets delivering his employer's wares, before returning in the evening to Ducrest's kitchen, where he slept. By this account, Carême

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2808-468: Was continued by Jules Gouffé , Urbain Dubois and Émile Bernard , reinvigorated by Auguste Escoffier and continued until it was overtaken by nouvelle cuisine in the second half of the 20th century. Marie-Antoine Carême, known throughout his life as Antonin Carême, was born in Paris. The date of his birth cannot be authenticated and is disputed. The day and month are generally accepted as 8 June and

2862-468: Was not until about the mid-16th century that actual pastry recipes began appearing. These recipes were adopted and adapted over time in various European countries, resulting in the myriad pastry traditions known to the region, from Portuguese " pastéis de nata " in the west to Russian " pirozhki " in the east. The use of chocolate in pastry-making in the west, so commonplace today, arose only after Spanish and Portuguese traders brought chocolate to Europe from

2916-497: Was taught to read and write by Alexis Eymery ( fr ), the tutor of Ducrest's children. Carême's history is more reliably documented from 1798, when he began an apprenticeship at Sylvain Bailly's patisserie -restaurant in the rue Vivienne. This was a step up, in career terms, as in post-revolutionary Paris, patisserie was the most prestigious branch of the culinary arts, and Bailly was among its most fêted practitioners, recommended by

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