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Leather Archives & Museum

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The Leather Archives & Museum ( LA&M ) is a community archives, library, and museum located in the Rogers Park neighborhood of Chicago , Illinois. Founded by Chuck Renslow and Tony DeBlase in 1991, its mission is making “ leather , kink , BDSM , and fetish accessible through research, preservation, education and community engagement." Renslow and DeBlase founded the museum in response to the AIDS crisis, during which the leather and fetish communities' history and belongings were frequently lost or intentionally suppressed and discarded.

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66-511: The LA&M is a leading conservator of queer erotic art . Its permanent collection features some of the most iconic LGBTQ artists of the twentieth century, including most artwork by Bill Schmeling and many works by Dom Orejudos . The museum is open to patrons 18 years of age and over. It is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization and a member of the Reciprocal Organization of Associated Museums (ROAM). Research assistance

132-613: A glory hole from Man's Country in Chicago, and a dress code sign from the Mineshaft in New York City. LA&M holds hundreds of bootblacking artifacts, many from bootblack competitions such International Mr. Bootblack (IMrBB) , International Ms. Bootblack (IMsBB) , and International Community Bootblack (ICBB). These include IMrBB 1994 William Shields, Jr.'s bootblacking kit, IMrBB 2000 David Hawk's bootblacking chair, and

198-788: A 128-page collection of his work. In 2018, Kirwan was featured in the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit 's TOM House: The Work and Life of Tom of Finland exhibit. Kirwan died in his sleep on May 26, 2018. The Leather Archives & Museum in Chicago houses some of his art. Rather than a photorealist or idealist approach, he drew characters cartoonishly, to "universalize" the scenes for audience identification. He depicted diverse subjects – including inter-racial and inter-generational scenes, and people from different socio-economic backgrounds – who were not physical ideals, sometimes with disabilities or physical deformities. Kirwan once wrote "my guys are stand-ins for everyone who's ever sucked

264-537: A 164-seat auditorium named in honor of Dom Orejudos (who signed his artwork under the alias Etienne); the auditorium is adorned with original Etienne artwork from the Gold Coast bar , Man's Country bathhouse , and elsewhere. The auditorium is a hub for leather- and fetish-related events, community meetings, and lectures. The event space is available to rent for a fee, but is made available for free for small not-for-profit community group gatherings. The auditorium

330-785: A 2015 documentary by Christina Court : High Shine: 15 Years of International Ms Bootblack . LA&M holds complete sets of the magazines Drummer (original run) and Bound & Gagged . In 2009, the LA&;M acquired the 25-box collection of papers of Robert Davolt, author and organizer of the San Francisco Pride leather contingent, and former editor of Bound & Gagged . The collection includes records of leather and fetish organizations such as Chicago Hellfire Club, Conversio Virium , International Mr. Leather , Mineshaft , MIR (formerly Mr. International Rubber), National Leather Association , and Society of Janus , as well as

396-420: A bootblacking chair used by Harry Shattuck and ‘Daddy’ William Shields, Jr. in gay bars in Chicago, Boston, Providence and New York City between the 1990s and 2000s. Body modification artifacts in the collection include Cliff Raven 's tattooing memorabilia; stories, artwork, and stencils by Samuel Steward ; publications by Fakir Musafar ; and photographs belonging to Sailor Sid Diller. The LA&M contains

462-496: A broad spectrum of non- heteronormative sexual or gender identities and politics. Academic disciplines such as queer theory and queer studies share a general opposition to binarism , normativity , and a perceived lack of intersectionality , some of them only tangentially connected to the LGBT movement. Queer arts, queer cultural groups, and queer political groups are examples of modern expressions of queer identities. Critics of

528-582: A cultural and social movement that began in the mid-1980s as an offshoot of punk expressed in a do-it-yourself style through zines, music, writing, art and film. The term queer migration is used to describe the movement of LGBTQ people around the world often to escape discrimination or ill treatment due to their orientation or gender expression. Organizations such as the Iranian Railroad for Queer Refugees and Rainbow Railroad attempt to assist individuals in such relocations. A pride flag for

594-515: A dick. [...] I'd like viewers to recognize familiar situations and see a spark of their own lives displayed in my work." His style has been likened to Paul Cadmus , Robert Crumb , and George Grosz , and contrasted with that of Tom of Finland . Each drawing was preceded by a plethora of sketches. He was careful with each background detail. Each drawing contains layers of colors. He loved studying patterns. Tiles, bricks and fabric folds are carefully described with each pen mark. He loved using

660-675: A feeling of unwellness or something that is questionable or suspicious. In the 1922 comic monologue " My Word, You Do Look Queer ", the word is taken to mean "unwell". The expression "in Queer Street " is used in the United Kingdom for someone in financial trouble. Over time, queer acquired a number of meanings related to sexuality and gender, from narrowly meaning "gay or lesbian" to referring to those who are "not heterosexual" to referring to those who are either not heterosexual or not cisgender (those who are LGBT+ ). The term

726-474: A gay movement centered more on obtaining straight privilege than challenging power." Commentators such as Mattilda Bernstein Sycamore have argued that it was exactly these "revolting queers" (who were now being pushed aside) who had made it safe for the assimilationists to now have the option of assimilation. The term may be capitalized when referring to an identity or community, in a construction similar to

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792-467: A heteronormativity in medical rationales for the surgical normalization of infants and children born with atypical sex development, and Holmes and Carpenter have described intersex bodies as queer bodies . In "What Can Queer Theory Do for Intersex?" Iain Morland contrasts queer "hedonic activism" with an experience of insensate post-surgical intersex bodies to claim that "queerness is characterized by

858-655: A mirror to reflect the rest of the image that may have been lost. Kirwan indicated his subjects were inspired by the people he encountered in what he called "the homo realm" of everyday life. Critics lauded his depiction of everyday, regular people. In 2003, Wayne Snellen, director of the Leslie-Lohman Museum of Art, wrote: Michael Kirwan's work finds a vibrantly colorful world in the day-to-day realities of gay erotic life. [...] Unlike many gay artists, Kirwan deliberately avoids idealizing his subjects, portraying men of ages, races and appearances well outside

924-460: A queer theorist of color, specifically coined the term homonationalism to refer to the perceived rise of American exceptionalism , nationalism , white supremacy , and patriarchy within the gay community, catalyzed in response to the September 11 attacks . In their research on the queer movements of Indonesia and Malaysia , scholars Jón Ingvar Kjaran and Mohammad Naeimi have said that

990-579: A single night. The LA&M moved into the Greenview Ave building, in which it remains to this day, in 1999. Over the next five years, the community raised the funds necessary to pay off the building's mortgage. DeBlase served as Vice President of the Board of Directors of the LA&M from 1992 until 2000. In May 2006, the LA&M's executive director Rick Storer participated in a panel discussion entitled "Censorship & Sexually Explicit Materials" at

1056-594: A site of "collective contestation", referring to its commitment to challenging easy categories and definitions. Critics of queer theory argue that this refusal of straightforward categories can make the discipline overly abstract or detached from reality. Queer theorists such as Rod Ferguson , Jasbir Puar , Lisa Duggan , and Chong-suk Han have critiqued the mainstream gay political movement as allied with neoliberal and imperialistic agendas, including gay tourism, gay and trans military inclusion, and state- and church-sanctioned marriages for monogamous gay couples. Puar,

1122-686: A son, Larry. They remained married until she divorced him due to his sexual infidelity with men in the late 1970s. Kirwan began producing homoerotic art in the early 1980s, inspired by his job as an attendant at St. Mark's Baths , a gay sex club. His first published work appeared in Playguy magazine. He produced monthly comic strips for Playguy , including The Roadies , which ran from October 1995 through September 1997; The Adventures of Richie Tease , from October 1997 through January 1999; and Beginner's Luck , which began in July 1999. In all, his art

1188-725: A variety of merchandise, much of which features art by Etienne and the Hun. The gift shop has a small physical presence in the museum as well as an online store. In 2016, Chicago City Council designated September 18, 2016 as "LEATHER ARCHIVES & MUSEUM DAY" in honor of the museum's 25th anniversary (Resolution R2016-704). The LA&M was inducted into the Chicago LGBT Hall of Fame in 2017. The LA&M has received numerous honors and awards from leather organizations, including: LA&M leaders have also received numerous honors: Past and present exhibits include : In regard to

1254-472: A weekend-long celebration featuring Gayle Rubin and Guy Baldwin . In 2024, the LA&M announced a capital campaign to renovate the museum, including the addition of dedicated research space, flexible event space, and ADA -compliant accessibility. It is estimated that just one percent of the museum's collection is on display at any given time. The LA&M holds one of three original leather pride flags created by Tony DeBlase in 1989. The LA&M has

1320-458: Is also widespread in Australia, including national counselling and support service Qlife and QNews . Other social movements exist as offshoots of queer culture or combinations of queer identity with other views. Adherents of queer nationalism support the notion that the LGBT community forms a distinct people due to their unique culture and customs. Queercore (originally homocore ) is

1386-405: Is an umbrella term for people who are not heterosexual or are not cisgender . Originally meaning ' strange ' or ' peculiar ' , queer came to be used pejoratively against LGBT people in the late 19th century. From the late 1980s, queer activists began to reclaim the word as a neutral or positive self-description. In the 21st century, queer became increasingly used to describe

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1452-520: Is available upon request. In 1991, Dom Orejudos, Chuck Renslow's partner of 40 years, passed away from AIDS . When Orejudos was alive, Renslow had begun selling off some of his art to pay for medical treatment, but upon his death, Renslow was determined to preserve Orejudos' art and legacy. Renslow was unable to find a museum willing to preserve Orejudos' entire body of work; although multiple museums expressed interest in his art, they wished to pick and choose specific artworks, whereas Renslow wished to keep

1518-581: Is great. It has its place. But when a lot of lesbians and gay men wake up in the morning we feel angry and disgusted, not gay. So we've chosen to call ourselves queer. Using "queer" is a way of reminding us how we are perceived by the rest of the world. Queer people, particularly queer Black and Brown people, also began to reclaim queer in response to a perceived shift in the gay community toward liberal conservatism , catalyzed by Andrew Sullivan 's 1989 piece in The New Republic , titled Here Comes

1584-417: Is home to the LA&M's annual Fetish Film Forum . The Teri Rose Memorial Library, opened in 2005, allows visitors and researchers free access to a wide variety of books, periodicals, and catalogs. The non-circulating library contains more than 5,000 books, 11,000 magazines (including Honcho , Mandate , and Mattachine Review ), and 100 journals. LA&M's gift shop sells vintage erotica, apparel, and

1650-525: Is still widely used in Hiberno-English with its original meaning as well as to provide adverbial emphasis (very, extremely). By the late 19th century, queer was beginning to gain a connotation of sexual deviance, used to refer to feminine men or men who were thought to have engaged in same-sex relationships. An early recorded usage of the word in this sense was in an 1894 letter by John Sholto Douglas, 9th Marquess of Queensberry , as read aloud at

1716-425: Is the study of issues relating to sexual orientation and gender identity, usually focusing on LGBT people and cultures. Originally centered on LGBT history and literary theory , the field has expanded to include the academic study of issues raised in biology , sociology , anthropology , history of science , philosophy , psychology , sexology , political science , ethics , and other fields by an examination of

1782-554: The New York Gay Pride Parade in June 1990 titled " Queers Read This ". The flier included a passage explaining their adoption of the label queer: Ah, do we really have to use that word? It's trouble. Every gay person has his or her own take on it. For some it means strange and eccentric and kind of mysterious [...] And for others "queer" conjures up those awful memories of adolescent suffering [...] Well, yes, "gay"

1848-747: The "Eurocentric discourse", homonationalism and homonormativity of "LGBT politics" in the global north . Several LGBT social movements around the world use the identifier queer , such as the Queer Cyprus Association in Cyprus and the Queer Youth Network in the United Kingdom. In India, pride parades include Queer Azaadi Mumbai and the Delhi Queer Pride Parade . The use of queer and Q

1914-466: The "Tom of Finland" mold. The result provides an exuberantly raunchy, yet tender window into typical gay sexual experiences beyond the view of the larger straight world. In 2018, the Tom of Finland Foundation wrote, "Michael’s drawings exposed the fevered excitement and erotic beauty in every body and face. Michael always said he did not draw “pretty” guys because he knew regular guys had better sex." In 2019

1980-415: The "localization of modern queer identity", rooted in local interpretations of queer theory and "Muslim modernism", has helped queer Indonesians and Malaysians to "promote their self-construction and organize a collective mobilization for their rights". They contrast this with the rhetoric of those conservative Muslim homophobes who portray "gay" or "LGBT" identities as a form of Western imperialism, as well as

2046-478: The 1930s and 1940s. As this binary became embedded into the social fabric, queer began to decline as an acceptable identity in the subculture. Similar to the earlier use of queer , gay was adopted by many U.S. assimilationist men in the mid-20th century as a means of asserting their normative status and rejecting any associations with effeminacy . The idea that queer was a pejorative term became more prevalent among younger gay men following World War II . As

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2112-427: The 1960s and 1970s, the homophile identity was gradually displaced by a more radicalized gay identity. At that time gay was generally an umbrella term including lesbians , as well as gay-identified bisexuals and transsexuals ; gender-nonconformity , which had always been an indicator of gayness, also became more open during this time. During the endonymic shifts from invert to homophile to gay , queer

2178-425: The 2006 LGBTQ Archives, Libraries, Museums and Special Collections (ALMS) Conference . In May 2009, the LA&M announced that International Mr. Leather proceeds would be placed in a trust to benefit the museum. The museum also receives funding from other leather events including Cleveland Annual Leather Weekend (CLAW) and Mid-Atlantic Leather (MAL) in D.C. In 2016, the LA&M celebrated its 25th anniversary with

2244-826: The 2009 Beijing Queer Film Festival after previous attempts to hold a queer film festival were shut down by the government. Multidisciplinary queer arts festivals include the Outburst Queer Arts Festival Belfast in Northern Ireland, the Queer Arts Festival in Canada, and the National Queer Arts Festival in the United States. Television shows that use queer in their titles include

2310-496: The English language in the 16th century , queer originally meant "strange", "odd", "peculiar", or "eccentric". It might refer to something suspicious or "not quite right", or to a person with mild derangement or who exhibits socially inappropriate behaviour. The Northern English expression " there's nowt so queer as folk ", meaning "there is nothing as strange as people", employs this meaning. Related meanings of queer include

2376-520: The Groom: The Conservative Case for Gay Marriage . By identifying themselves as queer rather than gay, LGBT activists sought to reject causes they viewed as assimilationist , such as marriage , military inclusion and adoption. This radical stance, including the rejection of U.S. imperialism, continued the tradition of earlier lesbian and gay anti-war activism, and solidarity with a variety of leftist movements, as seen in

2442-495: The UK series Queer as Folk and its American-Canadian remake of the same name , Queer Eye , and the cartoon Queer Duck . Michael Kirwan (artist) Michael Kirwan (December 27, 1953 – May 26, 2018) was an American artist, known for his distinctively stylized erotic illustrations and comics, published in more than 600 magazines. Although he focused primarily on homoerotic themes, he also produced substantial work for

2508-530: The capitalized use of Deaf . The 'Q' in extended versions of the LGBT acronym, such as LGBTQIA+ , is most often considered an abbreviation of queer. It can also stand for questioning . Reclamation and use of the term queer is controversial; several people and organizations, both LGBT and non-LGBT, object to some or all uses of the word for various reasons. Some LGBT people dislike the use of queer as an umbrella term because they associate it with political and social radicalism; they say that deliberate use of

2574-698: The collection intact. After consulting his friend Tony DeBlase, Renslow set about creating a new museum to forever preserve not just Orejudos' art and legacy, but also that of other leather artists and trailblazers. In Renslow's words, "we were in the thick of the AIDS epidemic and with each death, families and friends were unknowingly tossing our history into dumpsters. That there was a safe place to conserve that history simply made more sense." (According to former LA&M president Jon Krongaard, families of AIDS victims intentionally erased their leather and fetish legacies because they found it "sick or perverse.") The LA&M

2640-496: The dominant, "normal" society. … It signaled the general perception of same-sex desire as something eccentric, strange, abnormal, and perverse. Beginning in the 1980s, the label queer began to be reclaimed from its pejorative use as a neutral or positive self-identifier by LGBT people. An early example of this usage was by an LGBT organisation called Queer Nation , which was formed in March 1990 and circulated an anonymous flier at

2706-872: The early 1990s. Modern queer film festivals include the Melbourne Queer Film Festival and Mardi Gras Film Festival (run by Queer Screen) in Australia, the Mumbai Queer Film Festival in India, the Asian Queer Film Festival in Japan, and Queersicht in Switzerland. Chinese film director Cui Zi'en titled his 2008 documentary about homosexuality in China Queer China , which premiered at

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2772-518: The epithet queer by political radicals has, in their view, played a role in dividing the LGBT community by political opinion, class, gender, age, and other factors. Sociologist Joshua Gamson argues that the controversy about the word also marks a social and political divide in the LGBT community between those (including civil-rights activists) who perceive themselves as "normal" and who wish to be seen as ordinary members of society and those who see themselves as separate, confrontational and/or not part of

2838-427: The gay identity became more widely adopted in the community, some men who preferred to identify as gay began chastising older men who still referred to themselves as queer by the late 1940s: In calling themselves gay, a new generation of men insisted on the right to name themselves, to claim their status as men, and to reject the "effeminate" styles of the older generation. [...] Younger men found it easier to forget

2904-473: The good bits, the cultural and political cachet, the clothes and the sound of gay culture, without ... the internalized homophobia of lived gay experience." Many queer people believe that "you don't have to identify as queer if you're on the LGBTQIA+ spectrum, but you do have to be on the LGBTQIA+ spectrum to identify as queer." In academia, the term queer (and the related verb queering ) broadly indicate

2970-570: The heterosexual and fetish markets. He worked primarily in Prismacolor markers and permanent ink. Kirwan was born on December 27, 1953, in New York City. His family was poor, so as a child he drew on paper grocery bags. He attended a middle school run by the Catholic Archdiocese of New York that allowed the most gifted students to take art classes. He married his high-school girlfriend when she became pregnant, and they had

3036-539: The identity, lives, history, and perception of queer people. Organizations such as the Irish Queer Archive attempt to collect and preserve history related to queer studies. Queer theory is a field of post-structuralist critical theory that emerged in the early 1990s out of the fields of queer studies and women's studies . Applications of queer theory include queer theology and queer pedagogy . Philosopher Judith Butler has described queer theory as

3102-417: The intersex movement did not rely solely on queer identity model for its strategies. Queer is sometimes expanded to include any non-normative sexuality, including (cisgender) " queer heterosexuality ". This has been criticized by some LGBTQ people, who argue that queer can only be reclaimed by those it has been used to oppress: "A straight person identifying as queer can feel like choosing to appropriate

3168-541: The large and visible presence of LGBT people in most urban centers. For another, activists soon realized that most intersex individuals were not interested in building intersex communities or culture; what they sought were professional psychological support to live ordinary lives as ordinary men and women and not the adoption of new, misleading identity. ... To make it worse, the word "intersex" began to attract individuals who are not necessarily intersex, but feel that they might be, because they are queer or trans. ... Fortunately,

3234-513: The leather and fetish communities played a pivotal role in establishing the museum. In addition to donating much of the collection, they provided crucial financial support. As the museum outgrew its storefront, Renslow and DeBlase identified a former synagogue on Greenview Ave ideal to house the growing collection. They could afford only $ 3,000 of the $ 60,000 down payment required to buy the Greenview Ave property, so they appealed to International Mr. Leather attendees, who raised $ 58,000 in donations in

3300-694: The museum's largest paintings is The Last Supper In a Gay Leather Bar With Judas Giving Christ the Finger by Steven Brown, inspired by the artist's struggle to reconcile faith and sexuality. LA&M holds photographs by Kris Studios, a male physique photography studio founded by Renslow and Orejudos (named in part to honor transgender pioneer Christine Jorgensen ). It also has photographs by Kenneth Anger , George Dureau , Efrain J. Gonzalez, Adam Kozik, Lochai, and Robert Mapplethorpe . LA&M's photos, videos, and oral histories chronicling International Mr. Leather and International Ms Leather were featured in

3366-556: The name of A Room of Her Own , curator Alex Warner wrote: As I began work for the first exhibit installation of the Women's Leather History Project, I was excited that we were both literally and figuratively making room for Leatherwomen's history in the LA&M. It was out of this line of thinking that A Room of Her Own emerged, building on Virginia Woolf 's 1929 feminist text A Room of One's Own that argues for women's need for space to think and create. Queer Queer

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3432-514: The ordinary social order. Other LGBT people disapprove of reclaiming or using queer because they consider it offensive, in part due to its continued use as a pejorative. Some LGBT people avoid queer because they perceive it as faddish slang, or alternatively as academic jargon. Scholars and activists have proposed different ways in which queer identities apply or do not apply to intersex people. Sociologist Morgan Holmes and bioethicists Morgan Carpenter and Katrina Karkazis have documenting

3498-419: The origins of gay in the campy banter of the very queens whom they wished to reject. In other parts of the world, particularly England, queer continued to be the dominant term used by the community well into the mid-twentieth century, as noted by historical sociologist Jeffrey Weeks: By the 1950s and 1960s to say "I am queer" was to tell of who and what you were, and how you positioned yourself in relation to

3564-566: The papers of Tony DeBlase. Hundreds of oral history recordings, videos and transcripts by leather and fetish trailblazers such as Joe Laiacona (better known by his alias Jack Rinella) and Larry Townsend are also available to researchers. The collection includes artifacts (such as vests, patches and pins) from LGBTQ motorcycle clubs and leather clubs from around the world, including Centurions of Columbus, Crucible MC, Empire City MC, Rochester Rams MC, Stallions MC, and Wheels MC. LA&M also displays ephemera from historic gay establishments, such as

3630-466: The positions taken at the first two National Marches on Washington in 1979 and 1987 , the radical direct action of groups like ACT UP , and the historical importance of events like the Stonewall riots . The radical queer groups following in this tradition of LGBT activism contrasted firmly with "the holy trinity of marriage, military service and adoption [which had] become the central preoccupation of

3696-406: The queer community was created in 2015, though it is not widely known. Its colors include blue and pink for attraction to the same gender , orange and green for non-binary people, and black and white for agender , asexual , and aromantic people. The label queer is often applied to art movements, particularly cinema. New Queer Cinema was a movement in queer-themed independent filmmaking in

3762-511: The sensory interrelation of pleasure and shame". Emi Koyama describes a move away from a queer identity model within the intersex movement: Such tactic [of reclaiming labels] was obviously influenced by queer identity politics of the 1980s and 90s that were embodied by such groups as Queer Nation and Lesbian Avengers. But unfortunately, intersex activists quickly discovered that the intersex movement could not succeed under this model. For one thing, there were far fewer intersex people compared to

3828-513: The study of literature, discourse, academic fields, and other social and cultural areas from a non- heterosexual and/or non- cisgender viewpoint. Though the fields of queer studies and queer theory are broad, such studies often focus on LGBT+ lives, and may involve challenging the assumption that being heterosexual and cisgender are the default or "normal". Queer theory, in particular, may embrace ambiguities and fluidity in traditionally "stable" categories such as gay or straight. Queer studies

3894-423: The term include members of the LGBT community who associate it more with its colloquial, derogatory usage; those who wish to dissociate themselves from queer radicalism ; and those who see it as too amorphous or trendy. Queer is sometimes expanded to include any non-normative sexuality, including cisgender queer heterosexuality , although some LGBT people view this use of the term as appropriation . Entering

3960-424: The terms used within the subculture, medical practitioners and police officers tended to use medicalized or pathological terms like "invert", "pervert", "degenerate", and "homosexual". None of the terms, whether inside or outside of the subculture, equated to the general concept of a homosexual identity, which only emerged with the ascension of a binary (heterosexual/homosexual) understanding of sexual orientation in

4026-407: The trial of Oscar Wilde. Queer was used in mainstream society by the early 20th century, along with fairy and faggot , as a pejorative term to refer to men who were perceived as flamboyant. This was, as historian George Chauncey notes, "the predominant image of all queers within the straight mind". Starting in the underground gay bar scene in the 1950s, then moving more into the open in

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4092-606: The world's largest collection of original work by Dom Orejudos (Etienne) . In 2019, Bill Schmeling (the Hun) donated his entire personal collection of artwork and notes. The museum also holds art by Chuck Arnett , Giacomo "Jack" Bozzi (Adam), David Grieger, Beau Lee James, Charles Kerbs (MATT) , Michael Kirwan , John Klamik (Sean) , Touko Valio Laaksonen (Tom of Finland) , Donald Merrick (Domino) , Mike Miksche (Steve Masters) , Olaf Odegaard , Jacki Randall , Rex , Al Shapiro (A. Jay) , Joe T, Dennis Walsh, and Bill Ward . One of

4158-538: Was incorporated in the State of Illinois in 1991. It held a ribbon cutting ceremony and its first public gallery show on November 4, 1995. Its first storefront was at 5013 N Clark Street , adjacent to Man’s Country bathhouse. As envisioned, the LA&M became a sanctuary for leather and fetish history and art; the scale of donated art and artifacts quickly overwhelmed the capacity of the Clark St storefront. Members of

4224-685: Was published in over 600 magazines. As the market for magazine illustrations declined, Kirwan turned to commissioned work. He spent a year as the first Artist in Residence with the Tom of Finland Foundation , which inducted him into its Erotic Artist Hall of Fame in 2004. In 2003, the Leslie-Lohman Museum of Art featured Kirwan alongside Bill Schmeling , Howard Cruse , Rob Clarke, and Adam (Jack Bozzi) in its Deliciously Depraved exhibit. In 2011, Bruno Gmünder published Just So Horny ,

4290-542: Was used as a within-community identity term by men who were stereotypically masculine. Many queer-identified men at the time were, according to Chauncey, "repelled by the style of the fairy and his loss of manly status, and almost all were careful to distinguish themselves from such men", especially because the dominant straight culture did not acknowledge such distinctions. Trade referred to straight men who would engage in same-sex activity; Chauncey describes trade as "the 'normal men' [queers] claimed to be." In contrast to

4356-404: Was usually pejoratively applied to men who were believed to engage in receptive or passive anal or oral sex with other men as well as those who exhibited non-normative gender expressions. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, queer , fairy , trade , and gay signified distinct social categories within the gay male subculture. In his book Gay New York , Chauncey noted that queer

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