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54-476: The term "macaroni" pejoratively referred to a man who "exceeded the ordinary bounds of fashion" in terms of high-end clothing , fastidious eating, and gambling . He mixed Continental affectations with his British nature, like a practitioner of macaronic verse (which mixed English and Latin to comic effect), laying himself open to satire. The macaronis became seen in stereotyped terms in Britain, being seen as

108-575: A Harvard sophomore who also was a Minuteman ." He wrote a ballad with 15 verses which circulated in Boston and surrounding towns in 1775 or 1776. A bill was introduced to the House of Representatives on July 25, 1999, recognizing Billerica, Massachusetts , as "America's Yankee Doodle Town". After the Battle of Lexington and Concord , a Boston newspaper reported: Upon their return to Boston [pursued by

162-549: A feather in one's cap would transform the wearer into a noble. Peter McNeil, a professor of fashion studies, claims that the British were insinuating that the colonists were lower-class men who lacked masculinity, emphasizing that the American men were womanly. The song was a pre- Revolutionary War song originally sung by British military officers to mock the disheveled, disorganized colonial " Yankees " with whom they served in

216-701: A large bow, the Macaroni cravat , made from lace-edged muslin, were developed and worn in the 1770s. A prominently large nosegay of flowers was often worn (on the left side of the chest or shoulder of the coat), along with a very small tricorne style hat. The shop of engravers and printsellers Mary and Matthew Darly in the fashionable West End of London sold their sets of satirical "macaroni" caricature prints, published between 1771 and 1773. The new Darly shop became known as "the Macaroni Print-Shop". Design historian Peter McNeil links macaroni fashion to

270-437: A misunderstanding is discovered and young Marlow finds that he has been mistaken; he cries out, "So then, all's out, and I have been damnably imposed on. O, confound my stupid head, I shall be laughed at over the whole town. I shall be stuck up in caricatura in all the print-shops. The Dullissimo Maccaroni. To mistake this house of all others for an inn, and my father's old friend for an innkeeper!" The song " Yankee Doodle " from

324-746: A portfolio of designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth . Clients selected one model, specified colours and fabrics, and had a duplicate garment tailor-made in Worth's workshop. Worth combined individual tailoring with a standardization more characteristic of the ready-to-wear clothing industry , which was also developing during this period. Following in Worth's footsteps were Callot Soeurs , Patou , Paul Poiret , Madeleine Vionnet , Mariano Fortuny , Jeanne Lanvin , Chanel , Mainbocher , Schiaparelli , Cristóbal Balenciaga , and Christian Dior . Some of these fashion houses still exist today, under

378-461: A specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a modern dress to distinguish it from the skirt and sleeves . Beginning in the mid-nineteenth century, Paris became the centre of a growing industry that focused on making outfits from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by

432-457: A symbol of inappropriate bourgeois excess, effeminacy , and possible homosexuality - which was then legally viewed as sodomy . Many modern critics view the macaroni as representing a general change in 18th-century British society such as political change, class consciousness , new nationalisms , commodification , and consumer capitalism . The macaroni was the Georgian era precursor to

486-586: A tenth ( tanther ) of the grain". The term Doodle first appeared in English in the early 17th century and is thought to be derived from the Low German dudel, meaning "playing music badly", or Dödel , meaning "fool" or "simpleton". The Macaroni wig was an extreme fashion in the 1770s and became slang for being a fop . Dandies were men who placed particular importance upon physical appearance, refined language, and leisure hobbies. A self-made dandy

540-495: A winter; They have so much, that I'll be bound, They eat it when they've a mind to. [ Chorus ] And there I see a swamping gun Large as a log of maple, Upon a deuced little cart, A load for father's cattle. [ Chorus ] And every time they shoot it off, It takes a horn of powder , And makes a noise like father's gun, Only a nation louder. [ Chorus ] I went as nigh to one myself As 'Siah's underpinning; And father went as nigh again, I thought

594-612: Is a traditional song and nursery rhyme , the early versions of which predate the Seven Years' War and American Revolutionary War . It is often sung patriotically in the United States today. It is the state song of the U.S. state of Connecticut . Its Roud Folk Song Index number is 4501. The tune of "Yankee Doodle" is thought to be much older than the lyrics, being well known across western Europe, including England, France, Netherlands, Hungary, and Spain. The melody of

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648-399: Is an establishment or person involved in the clothing fashion industry who makes original garments to order for private clients. A couturier may make what is known as haute couture . Such a person usually hires patternmakers and machinists for garment production, and is either employed by exclusive boutiques or is self-employed. The couturier Charles Frederick Worth is widely considered

702-748: Is defined as "the regulating commission that determines which fashion houses are eligible to be true haute couture houses". Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the label haute couture . The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne is an association of Parisian couturiers founded in 1868 as an outgrowth of medieval guilds that regulate its members in regard to counterfeiting of styles, dates of openings for collections, number of models presented, relations with press, questions of law and taxes, and promotional activities. Formation of

756-471: Is distinguished by the form of its use, such as it being used as currency. Silk fabric is composed of fibers that are produced by the silkworm mainly found in China. There are various kinds of silks, used by designers in the textile world, such as dupioni , China, brocade , Jacquard, and satin silk. These various kinds of silks are often used to produce certain styles of clothing. For example, Chiffon silk

810-467: Is found only within four breeds of sheep, the other fifteen are not considered to be "fine". Dying wool is a delicate procedure due to the fact that wool easily absorbs colour, so it is important to be cautious in order not to ruin the wool. Some of the higher-end wools are alpaca , angora wool , mohair , cashmere wool , camel hair , and vicuña wool ; each of these wools has a different texture and softness. Yankee Doodle " Yankee Doodle "

864-474: Is used to create draping due to the fact that this silk is a thinner silk than others; it allows for easier movement and flow of the fabric, thus creating an easier process for draping. Wool is the textile fiber obtained from animals such as sheep , camels , camelids , goats , or other hairy mammals . Wool was first discovered and used mainly for protection against cold weather. Not all types are acceptable or considered "fine" wool. For instance, fine wool

918-474: The Bodleian Library , Oxford: Yankey Doodle came to town, How do you think they serv'd him? One took his bag, another his scrip, The quicker for to starve him. The full version of the song as it is known today: Yankee Doodle went to town A-riding on a pony, Stuck a feather in his cap And called it macaroni . [ Chorus ] Yankee Doodle keep it up, Yankee Doodle dandy , Mind

972-519: The English language nursery rhymes " Simple Simon ", " Jack and Jill ", and " Lucy Locket ". It also inspired the theme tune for the children's television series, Barney & the Backyard Gang , Barney & Friends , and the 1960s US cartoon series Roger Ramjet . Danish band Toy-Box sampled the tune in their song "E.T". The American state broadcaster Voice of America (VOA) uses

1026-606: The French and Indian War . It was written at Fort Crailo around 1755 by British Army surgeon Richard Shuckburgh while campaigning in Rensselaer, New York . The British troops sang it to mock their stereotype of the American soldier as a Yankee simpleton who thought that he was stylish if he simply stuck a feather in his cap. It was also popular among the Americans as a song of defiance, and they added verses to it that mocked

1080-470: The crossdressing of the earlier molly subculture , and says "some macaronis may have utilized aspects of high fashion in order to affect new class identities, but others may have asserted what we would now label a queer identity". In 1773, James Boswell was on tour in Scotland with the stout and serious-minded essayist and lexicographer Dr. Samuel Johnson , the least dandified of Londoners. Johnson

1134-617: The dandy of the Regency and Victorian eras . In the 18th century, wealthy young British men traditionally took a trip around Europe upon their coming of age , known as the Grand Tour . Italy was a key destination of these tours. During their trip, many developed a taste for maccaroni , a type of pasta little known in Britain then, and so they were said to belong to the Macaroni Club, founded in 1764 by those returning from

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1188-686: The British and hailed George Washington as the Commander of the Continental army. By 1781, "Yankee Doodle" had turned from being an insult to being a song of national pride. According to one account, Shuckburgh wrote the original lyrics after seeing the appearance of Colonial troops under Colonel Thomas Fitch , the son of Connecticut Governor Thomas Fitch . According to the Online Etymology Dictionary, "the current version seems to have been written in 1776 by Edward Bangs,

1242-402: The British army, they were enthusiastically taken up by the Americans themselves. Haute couture Haute couture ( / ˌ oʊ t k uː ˈ tj ʊər / ; French pronunciation: [ot kutyʁ] ; French for 'high sewing ', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design . The term haute couture generally refers to

1296-523: The Grand Tour. They would refer to anything that was fashionable or à la mode as "very maccaroni". The Italian term maccherone , when figuratively meaning "blockhead, fool", was apparently not related to this British usage, though both were derived from the name of the pasta shape. Author Horace Walpole wrote to a friend in 1764 of "the Macaroni Club [ Almack's ], which is composed of all

1350-479: The Minutemen], one [Briton] asked his brother officer how he liked the tune now, – "Dang them", returned he, "they made us dance it till we were tired" – since which Yankee Doodle sounds less sweet to their ears. The earliest known version of the lyrics comes from 1755 or 1758 (the date of origin is disputed): Brother Ephraim sold his Cow And bought him a Commission ; And then he went to Canada To fight for

1404-630: The Nation; But when Ephraim he came home He proved an arrant Coward, He wouldn't fight the Frenchmen there For fear of being devoured. The sheet music which accompanies these lyrics reads, "The Words to be Sung through the Nose, & in the West Country drawl & dialect ." The tune also appeared in 1762 in one of America's first comic operas The Disappointment , with bawdy lyrics about

1458-503: The deuce was in him. [ Chorus ] Cousin Simon grew so bold, I thought he would have cocked it; It scared me so I shrinked it off And hung by father's pocket. [ Chorus ] And Cap'n Davis had a gun, He kind of clapt his hand on't And stuck a crooked stabbing iron Upon the little end on't [ Chorus ] And there I see a pumpkin shell As big as mother's basin, And every time they touched it off They scampered like

1512-528: The fabric or medium being used by designers to create an article of clothing. History of silk originated in Neolithic China within the Yangshao culture (4th millennium BC), where the " Silk worm " was discovered. The Asian elite began using silk in high fashion. As time went on, silk began to be traded leading to the creation of the "Silk Road", which was a boost to China's economy. The value of silk

1566-531: The father of haute couture as it is known today. Although born in Bourne, Lincolnshire , England, Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry. Revolutionising how dressmaking had been previously perceived, Worth made it so the dressmaker became the artist of garnishment: a fashion designer. While he created one-of-a-kind designs to please some of his titled or wealthy customers, he is best known for preparing

1620-533: The feel of haute couture to more wardrobes. Fashion houses still create custom clothing for publicity, for example providing items to celebrity events such as the Met Gala . Recent guest members have included the fashion houses of Cathy Pill , Gerald Watelet  [ fr ] , Nicolas Le Cauchois  [ fr ] and Ma Ke (Wuyong). In the 2008/2009 Fall/Winter Haute Couture week, Emanuel Ungaro showed as an Official Member. Textiles refer to

1674-404: The lacemakers, ribbonmakers, fashion merchants, embroiderers, pin and needle peddlers, etc. Seamstresses did not operate public shops, unlike tailors, but instead relied on word of mouth and connections to procure high-end clientele. 18th century France witnessed a dramatic rise in clothing consumption, and scholars have documented a "clothing revolution" that occurred between 1700 and 1789. This

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1728-476: The latest Parisian fashion to serve as models. As railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories. French fitters and dressmakers were commonly thought to be the best in Europe, and real Parisian garments were considered better than local imitations. A couturier ( French: [ku.ty.ʁje] )

1782-443: The leadership of modern designers. In the 1960s, a group of young protégés who had trained under more senior and established fashion designers including Dior and Balenciaga left these established couture houses and opened their own establishments. The most successful of these young designers were Yves Saint Laurent , Pierre Cardin , André Courrèges , Ted Lapidus , and Emanuel Ungaro . Japanese native and Paris-based Hanae Mori

1836-402: The main source of income, often costing much more than it earns through direct sales; it only adds the aura of fashion to their ventures in ready-to-wear clothing and related luxury products such as shoes and perfumes , and licensing ventures that earn greater returns for the company. It is their ready-to-wear collections that are available to a wider audience, adding a splash of glamour and

1890-585: The most experienced and capable of sewers—often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Couture translates literally from French as "dressmaking", sewing , or needlework and is also used as a common abbreviation of haute couture and can often refer to the same thing in spirit. In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Paris Chamber of Commerce based in Paris . The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode

1944-457: The music and the step, And with the girls be handy. Father and I went down to camp, Along with Captain Gooding, And there we saw the men and boys As thick as hasty pudding . [ Chorus ] And there we saw a thousand men As rich as Squire David, And what they wasted every day, I wish it could be savèd. [ Chorus ] The 'lasses they eat every day, Would keep a house

1998-408: The nation. [ Chorus ] I see a little barrel too, The heads were made of leather; They knocked on it with little clubs And called the folks together. [ Chorus ] And there was Cap'n Washington , And gentle folks about him; They say he's grown so 'tarnal proud He will not ride without 'em. [ Chorus ] He got him on his meeting clothes, Upon a slapping stallion; He sat

2052-542: The organisation was brought about by Charles Frederick Worth . An affiliated school was organized in 1930 called L'Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. The school helps bring new designers to help the "couture" houses that are still present today. Since 1975, this organization has worked within the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode . In response to the Nazi occupation of Paris , more rigorous criteria for

2106-530: The rights to make clothing for women and children, while male tailors retained the right to make clothing for men and boys over the age of 8. Within this empire, the couturières' work ranged from simple mending, to modes (fashions). They performed darning and alterations, and also made fine dresses of luxurious fabric for members of the royal family and aristocracy. Seamstresses were only one part of this complex network and process, and included domestic manufacture, imported products, and work alongside guilds such as

2160-507: The search for Blackbeard 's buried treasure by a team from Philadelphia. An alternate verse that the British are said to have marched to is attributed to an incident involving Thomas Ditson of Billerica, Massachusetts . Ditson attempted to purchase a Brown Bess musket from a British soldier in the 47th Regiment of Foot in Boston in March 1775; after a group of the soldier's comrades spotted

2214-668: The song may have originated from an Irish tune "All the way to Galway" in which the second strain is identical to Yankee Doodle. There are rumors that the earliest words of "Yankee Doodle" came from a Middle Dutch harvest song which is thought to have followed the same tune, supposedly dating back as far as 15th-century Holland. It supposedly contained mostly nonsense words in English and Dutch: "Yanker, didel, doodle down, Diddle, dudel, lanther, Yanke viver, voover vown, Botermilk und tanther ." Farm laborers in Holland were paid "as much buttermilk ( Botermelk ) as they could drink, and

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2268-525: The term haute couture were established in 1945. To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture must follow specific rules: The term is also used loosely to describe all high-fashion, custom-fitted clothing, whether it is produced in the fashion capitals of London , New York City , Paris , and Milan . In either case,

2322-634: The term can refer to the fashion houses or fashion designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions or to the fashions created. The term haute couture has also taken on further popular meanings referring to non-dressmaking activities, such as production of fine art and music. Haute couture can be referenced back as early as the 17th century. Industry and consumption were legally protected through guild statutes that required strict adherence to quality, quantity, etc. Women dressmakers, known as couturières , attained guild privileges in 1675. Their guild statutes made it so these women acquired

2376-553: The time of the American Revolutionary War mentions a man who "stuck a feather in his hat and called it macaroni." Dr. Richard Shuckburgh was a British surgeon and also the author of the song's lyrics; the joke which he was making was that the Yankees were naive and unsophisticated enough to believe that a feather in the hat was a sufficient mark of a macaroni. Whether or not these were alternative lyrics sung in

2430-558: The transaction as it was occurring, they tarred and feathered Ditson in order to prevent any such illegal purchases from happening in the future. Ditson eventually managed to secure a musket and fought at the Battles of Lexington and Concord. For this reason, the town of Billerica is called the home of "Yankee Doodle": Yankee Doodle came to town, For to buy a firelock, We will tar and feather him, And so we will John Hancock . Another pro-British set of lyrics believed to have used

2484-405: The travelled young men who wear long curls and spying-glasses". The expression was particularly used to characterize " fops " who dressed in high fashion with tall, powdered wigs with a chapeau-bras on top that could only be removed on the point of a sword. The Macaroni suit , made up of a shorter, tighter fitting coat, colourful stockings, and shoes adorned with large buckles, and, fastened in

2538-589: The tune of Yankee Doodle as their interval signal . There is uncertainty over the origin of the VOA's decision to use the tune. In his 1990 memoir Being Red , Howard Fast claimed that while working as the VOA's chief news writer and news director in 1943, he selected "as a joke" Yankee Doodle for the broadcaster's interval signal. I established contact at the Soviet embassy with people who spoke English and were willing to feed me important bits and pieces from their side of

2592-551: The tune was published in June 1775 following the Battle of Bunker Hill : The seventeen of June, at Break of Day, The Rebels they supriz'd us, With their strong Works, which they'd thrown up, To burn the Town and drive us. "Yankee Doodle" was played at the British surrender at Saratoga in 1777. A variant is preserved in the 1810 edition of Gammer Gurton's Garland : Or, The Nursery Parnassus , collected by Francis Douce , now in

2646-536: The world along in rows, In hundreds and in millions. [ Chorus ] The flaming ribbons in his hat, They looked so tearing fine, ah, I wanted dreadfully to get To give to my Jemima. [ Chorus ] I see another snarl of men A-digging graves, they told me, So 'tarnal long, so 'tarnal deep, They 'tended they should hold me. [ Chorus ] It scared me so, I hooked it off, Nor stopped, as I remember, Nor turned about till I got home, Locked up in mother's chamber. [ Chorus ] The tune shares with

2700-542: Was a British middle-class man who impersonated an aristocratic lifestyle. They notably wore silk strip cloth, stuck feathers in their hats, and carried two pocket watches with chains—"one to tell what time it was and the other to tell what time it was not". The macaroni wig was an example of such Rococo dandy fashion, popular in elite circles in Western Europe and much mocked in the London press. The term macaroni

2754-411: Was also successful in establishing her own line. Lacroix is one of the fashion houses to have been started in the late 20th century. Other new houses have included Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler . Due to the high expenses of producing haute couture collections, Lacroix and Mugler have since ceased their haute couture activities. For all these fashion houses, custom clothing is no longer

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2808-465: Was awkward in the saddle, and Boswell ribbed him: "You are a delicate Londoner; you are a maccaroni; you can't ride." There is indeed a kind of animal, neither male nor female, a thing of the neuter gender, lately [1770] started up among us. It is called a macaroni. It talks without meaning, it smiles without pleasantry, it eats without appetite, it rides without exercise, it wenches without passion. In Oliver Goldsmith 's She Stoops to Conquer (1773),

2862-463: Was characterised by the increased size and value of wardrobes across the country, even among the middling and working classes. The fashion industry sprang to life to meet increasing demand. Rose Bertin , the French fashion designer to Queen Marie Antoinette , can be credited for bringing fashion and haute couture to French culture. Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was then copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered dresses in

2916-401: Was used to describe a fashionable man who dressed and spoke in an outlandishly affected and effeminate manner. The term pejoratively referred to a man who "exceeded the ordinary bounds of fashion" in terms of clothes, fastidious eating, and gambling. In British conversation, the term "Yankee doodle dandy" implied unsophisticated misappropriation of upper-class fashion, as though simply sticking

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