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Magadan Oblast

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Magadan Oblast is a federal subject (an oblast ) of Russia . It is geographically located in the Far East region of the country, and is administratively part of the Far Eastern Federal District . Magadan Oblast has a population of 136,085 ( 2021 Census ), making it the least populated oblast and the third-least populated federal subject in Russia.

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102-474: Magadan is the largest city and the capital of Magadan Oblast with the majority of the oblast's inhabitants living in the city itself. The coastline has a less severe climate than the interiors, although both are very cold for its latitude. It borders Chukotka Autonomous Okrug in the north, Kamchatka Krai in the east, Khabarovsk Krai in the south and the Sakha Republic in the west. The economy

204-582: A Dene (Athapascan) group, call the Arctic caribou Ɂekwǫ̀ and the boreal woodland caribou tǫdzı . The Gwichʼin (also a Dene group) have over 24 distinct caribou-related words. Reindeer are also called tuttu by the Greenlandic Inuit and hreindýr , sometimes rein , by the Icelanders . The "glacial-interglacial cycles of the upper Pleistocene had a major influence on

306-464: A boreal forest hosting a species assemblage with no modern analogue. These are among the oldest DNA fragments ever sequenced. Carl Linnaeus in 1758 named the Eurasian tundra species Cervus tarandus , the genus Rangifer being credited to Smith, 1827. Rangifer has had a convoluted history because of the similarity in antler architecture (brow tines asymmetrical and often palmate, bez tines,

408-520: A distillery , a pasta factory, a sausage factory, the Dukcha state poultry farm, and the Khasynsky state farm. Despite rich natural resources, the economy has not prospered as much as might have been expected in recent years. The severe climate and poorly developed infrastructure are partly to blame, but the difficult transition from Soviet times has led to the collapse of a number of companies with

510-675: A 192 km long river flowing to the Sea of Okhotsk , passes the city. The city is located on the isthmus of the Staritsky Peninsula by the Nagaev Bay . Ecologically situated in the Northeast Siberian taiga , the town's arboreal flora is made up of conifer trees, such as firs and larches , and silver birches . The city is surrounded by mountains to the west and northeast. Permafrost and tundra cover most of

612-598: A 2012 survey 29.6% of the population of Magadan Oblast adheres to the Russian Orthodox Church , 3% are unaffiliated generic Christians , 3% is an Orthodox Christian believer without belonging to any church or adheres to other Orthodox churches , 2% of the population adheres to the Slavic native faith (Rodnovery) or to Siberian shamanism , 1% to Islam , 1% to the Old Believers . In addition, 27% of

714-463: A Captain Craycott had brought a live pair from Greenland to England in 1738. He named it Capra groenlandicus , Greenland reindeer. Linnaeus, in the 12th edition of Systema naturae , gave grœnlandicus as a synonym for Cervus tarandus . Borowski disagreed (and again changed the spelling), saying Cervus grönlandicus was morphologically distinct from Eurasian tundra reindeer. Baird placed it under

816-454: A back tine sometimes branched, and branched at the distal end, often palmate). Because of individual variability, early taxonomists were unable to discern consistent patterns among populations, nor could they, examining collections in Europe, appreciate the difference in habitats and the differing function they imposed on antler architecture. Comparative morphometrics, the measurement of skulls,

918-659: A base for the Soviet Navy during the Cold War. It has a number of cultural institutions, including the Regional Museum of Anthropology, a geological museum, a regional library and a university. Magadanskaya Pravda is the main newspaper. The town figures prominently in the gulag literature of Varlam Shalamov and in the eponymous song by Mikhail Krug . Actor of film and stage Georgiy Zhzhonov worked at Magadan Theatre for two years after being released from

1020-778: A broad, high muzzle to increase the volume of the nasal cavity to warm and moisten the air before it enters the throat and lungs, bez tines set close to the brow tines, distinctive coat patterns, short legs and other adaptations for running long distances, and multiple behaviors suited to tundra, but not to forest (such as synchronized calving and aggregation during rutting and post-calving). As well, many genes, including those for vitamin D metabolism, fat metabolism , retinal development, circadian rhythm , and tolerance to cold temperatures, are found in tundra caribou that are lacking or rudimentary in forest types. For this reason, forest-adapted reindeer and caribou could not survive in tundra or polar deserts . The oldest undoubted Rangifer fossil

1122-439: A direct common ancestor , they cannot be Biological specificity#conspecific|conspecific. Similarly, woodland caribou diverged from the ancestors of Arctic caribou before modern barren-ground caribou had evolved, and were more likely related to extinct North American forest reindeer (see Evolution above). Lacking a direct shared ancestor, barren-ground and woodland caribou cannot be conspecific. Molecular data also revealed that

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1224-563: A forest subspecies, formerly included reindeer west of the Sea of Okhotsk which, however, are indistinguishable genetically from the Jano-Indigirka, East Siberian taiga and Chukotka populations of R. t. sibiricus . Siberian tundra reindeer herds have been in decline but are stable or increasing since 2000. Insular (island) reindeer, classified as the Novaya Zemlya reindeer ( R. t. pearsoni ) occupy several island groups:

1326-596: A gulag in May 1945. Magadan was home to Eastern Syndrome  [ ru ] a famous Soviet and Russian rock group founded there in 1986. The town was a focal point of the Long Way Round TV series of a motorcycle journey made by Ewan McGregor , Charley Boorman and their team in 2004. The town features the recent Orthodox Cathedral of the Life-Giving Trinity (completed in 2008), and

1428-428: A large scale in the world. Both wild and domestic reindeer have been an important source of food, clothing, and shelter for Arctic people from prehistorical times. They are still herded and hunted today. In some traditional Christmas legends, Santa Claus's reindeer pull a sleigh through the night sky to help Santa Claus deliver gifts to good children on Christmas Eve. Names follow international convention before

1530-725: A mtDNA haplotype with Labrador caribou, in the North American lineage (i.e., woodland caribou). Røed et al. (1991) had noted: Among Baffin Island caribou the TFL2 allele was the most common allele (p=0.521), while this allele was absent, or present in very low frequencies, in other caribou populations (Table 1), including the Canadian barren-ground caribou from the Beverly herd. A large genetic difference between Baffin Island caribou and

1632-816: A new revision of the genus. Abbreviations: The table above includes, as per the recent revision, R. t. caboti (the Labrador caribou (the Eastern Migratory population DU4)), and R. t. terranovae (the Newfoundland caribou (the Newfoundland population DU5)), which molecular analyses have shown to be of North American (i.e., woodland caribou) lineage; and four mountain ecotypes now known to be of distant Beringia - Eurasia lineage (see Taxonomy above). The scientific name Tarandus rangifer buskensis Millais, 1915 (the Busk Mountains reindeer)

1734-466: A power-sharing agreement with the government of Russia, granting it autonomy. The agreement would be abolished on 30 January 2002. Magadan Oblast consists principally of mountainous desert, tundra , and taiga . The southern part of the region is partly forested with birch, willow, mountain ash, larch and alder. Inland there are mountain ranges belonging to the Kolyma Mountains , as well as

1836-439: A predator-avoidance strategy, which requires large rutting aggregations. Males cannot defend a harem because, while he was busy fighting, they would disappear into the mass of the herd. Males therefore tend individual females; their fights are infrequent and brief. Their antlers are thin, beams round in cross-section, sweep back and then forward with a cluster of branches at the top; these are designed more for visual stimulation of

1938-549: A scathing review by Ian McTaggart-Cowan in 1962. Most authorities continued to consider all or most subspecies valid; some were quite distinct. In his chapter in the authoritative 2005 reference work Mammal Species of the World , referenced by the American Society of Mammalogists , English zoologist Peter Grubb agreed with Valerius Geist , a specialist on large mammals, that these subspecies were valid (i.e., before

2040-573: A snowpack is built up early, which then lasts throughout the winter even while the influence from the Siberian High lowers precipitation throughout those months. Magadan is twinned with: Reindeer See text , traditionally 1, but possibly up to 6 The reindeer or caribou ( Rangifer tarandus ) is a species of deer with circumpolar distribution , native to Arctic , subarctic , tundra , boreal , and mountainous regions of Northern Europe, Siberia, and North America. It

2142-654: A subarctic climate with prolonged and cold winters, causing the soil to remain permanently frozen. Magadan was founded in 1930 in the Ola (river) valley, near the settlement of Nagayevo . During the Stalin era, Magadan was a major transit centre for political prisoners sent to forced labour camps. From 1932 to 1953, it was the administrative centre of the Dalstroy organisation—a vast forced-labour gold-mining operation and forced-labour camp system. The first director of Dalstroy

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2244-772: A very interesting history. Allen (1902) named it as a distinct species, R. granti , from the "western end of Alaska Peninsula , opposite Popoff Island " and noting that: Rangifer granti is a representative of the Barren Ground group of Caribou, which includes R. arcticus of the Arctic Coast and R. granlandicus of Greenland. It is not closely related to R. stonei of the Kenai Peninsula, from which it differs not only in its very much smaller size, but in important cranial characters and in coloration. ...The external and cranial differences between R. granti and

2346-808: A wildlife rehabilitation center in Canada, caribou were considered extirpated from the contiguous United States . The Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada (COSEWIC) classified both the Southern Mountain population DU9 ( R. t. montanus ) and the Central Mountain population DU8 ( R. t. fortidens ) as Endangered and the Northern Mountain population DU7 ( R. t. osborni ) as Threatened. Some species and subspecies are rare and three subspecies have already become extinct:

2448-587: Is a federal subject that has the highest rate of depopulation in the Russian Federation. Its population, which stood at 384,525 in 1991, stood at 165,820 on January 1, 2008 (according to the State Committee of the Russian Federation on Statistics), falling at a rate of around 2% per year. The rural population, which had stood at 59,151, was just 8,833 in 2008 and decreasing at a rate of around 10% per year. Entire villages are being emptied out and

2550-624: Is centered on mining interests for gold, silver and other non-ferrous metals. The city of Magadan is the only large industrial center. Agriculture is not well developed in the region. In April 2014 the Russian government has endorsed bills for extending the operations of the Special Economic Zone (SEZ) in Magadan Oblast through to December 31, 2025. Magadan Oblast is considered one of the world's richest mining areas. Gold

2652-434: Is evident from the fact that for the 20-24 age group, there were only 66 females living in rural areas, compared to 202 males. Male life expectancy for rural areas rose to 53.73 years in 2006 from 51.88 in 2005. In 2021 the depopulation continues with approximately the same rate, as the population is about 139,000 people. Although Magadan Oblast is a part of the program of resettlement of ethnic Russian families. According to

2754-580: Is from Omsk , Russia, dated to 2.1-1.8 Ma. The oldest North American Rangifer fossil is from the Yukon , 1.6 million years before present (BP). A fossil skull fragment from Süßenborn, Germany, R. arcticus stadelmanni , (which is probably misnamed) with "rather thin and cylinder-shaped" antlers, dates to the Middle Pleistocene (Günz) Period, 680,000-620,000 BP. Rangifer fossils become increasingly frequent in circumpolar deposits beginning with

2856-475: Is necessary with R. montanus or with any of the woodland forms." Osgood and Murie (1935), agreeing with granti ' s close relationship with the barren-ground caribou, brought it under R. arcticus as a subspecies, R. t. granti . Anderson (1946) and Banfield (1961), based on statistical analysis of cranial, dental and other characters, agreed. But Banfield (1961) also synonymized Alaska's large R. stonei with other mountain caribou of British Columbia and

2958-664: Is often seen as more objective than description of differences of color or antler patterns, but actually confounds genetic variance with epistatic and statistical variance as well as compounded environment-based variance. For example, woodland caribou males, rutting in boreal forest where only a few females can be found, collect harems and defend them against other males, for which they have short, straight, strong, much-branched antlers, beams flattened in cross-section, designed for combat — and not too large, so as not to impede them in forested winter ranges. By contrast, modern tundra caribou (see Evolution above) have synchronized calving as

3060-401: Is primarily based on mining , particularly gold , silver and other non-ferrous metals . Magadan Oblast was established on December 3, 1953 in what had popularly been known as Kolyma . As a result of considerable raw resources, especially gold, silver, tin, and tungsten deposits, mining activities and road building had been developed during the Stalin era in the 1930s and 1940s under

3162-464: Is still well below the allocated quotas, apparently as a result of an aging fleet. Other local industries include pasta and sausage plants, and a distillery. Although farming is difficult owing to the harsh climate, there are many public and private farming enterprises. The Central Intelligence Agency wrote a report on Ship Repair Yard No. 2 near Magadan in June 1965. Magadan was repeatedly reported as

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3264-434: Is the only representative of the genus Rangifer . More recent studies suggest the splitting of reindeer and caribou into six distinct species over their range. Reindeer occur in both migratory and sedentary populations, and their herd sizes vary greatly in different regions. The tundra subspecies are adapted for extreme cold, and some are adapted for long-distance migration. Reindeer vary greatly in size and color from

3366-416: Is the region's main resource, although silver and tin deposits are also being developed. There are nearly 2,000 placer gold deposits, 100 gold ore deposits, and 48 silver ore deposits in the territory. Recently, there has been interest in exploiting the coal resources in the region. Over the medium term, there seem to be excellent opportunities for petroleum and natural gas exploitation. The fishing industry

3468-475: Is the region's only food sector and is second in importance after mining. The 600,000 square kilometers (230,000 sq mi) area of the Sea of Okhotsk that borders on Magadan Oblast is one of the most productive regions of the world's oceans. Magadan Oblast has more than 15,900 kilometers (9,900 mi) of coastline and 29,016 kilometers (18,030 mi) of rivers of commercial importance. The catching vessels of

3570-602: The Chersky Range , including the Okhandya Range with the highest point of Magadan Oblast, an unnamed 2,337 metres (7,667 ft) high peak. There are a number of peninsulas along the oblast's coast, the chief ones being (north to south) the Taygonos Peninsula  [ ru ] , Pyagina Peninsula , Koni Peninsula , Staritskogo Peninsula , Onatsevicha Peninsula , Khmitevskogo Peninsula and

3672-594: The Early Pleistocene (2 million years ago) Kap Kobenhavn Formation of northern Greenland identified preserved DNA fragments of Rangifer , identified as basal but potentially ancestral to modern reindeer. This suggests that reindeer have inhabited Greenland since at least the Early Pleistocene. Around this time, northern Greenland was 11–19 °C (20–34 °F) warmer than the Holocene , with

3774-738: The Last Glacial Period until the present day. In the non-forested mountains of central Norway, such as Jotunheimen , it is still possible to find remains of stone-built trapping pits , guiding fences and bow rests, built especially for hunting reindeer. These can, with some certainty, be dated to the Migration Period , although it is not unlikely that they have been in use since the Stone Age . Cave paintings by ancient Europeans include both tundra and forest types of reindeer. A 2022 study of ancient environmental DNA from

3876-801: The Late Miocene , 8.7–9.6 million years ago. Rangifer "evolved as a mountain deer, ...exploiting the subalpine and alpine meadows...". Rangifer originated in the Late Pliocene and diversified in the Early Pleistocene , a 2+ million-year period of multiple glacier advances and retreats. Several named Rangifer fossils in Eurasia and North America predate the evolution of modern tundra reindeer. Archaeologists distinguish "modern" tundra reindeer and barren-ground caribou from primitive forms – living and extinct – that did not have adaptations to extreme cold and to long-distance migration. They include

3978-568: The Mi'kmaq qalipu , meaning "snow shoveler", and refers to its habit of pawing through the snow for food. Because of its importance to many cultures, Rangifer and some of its species and subspecies have names in many languages. Inuvialuit of the western Canadian Arctic and Inuit of the eastern Canadian Arctic, who speak different dialects of the Inuit languages , both call the barren-ground caribou tuktu . The Wekʼèezhìi ( Tłı̨chǫ ) people,

4080-491: The Nagaev Bay ; it serves as a gateway to the Kolyma region. Magadan, founded in 1929, was a major transit centre for political prisoners during the Stalin era and the administrative centre of the Dalstroy forced-labor gold-mining operation. The town later served as a port for exporting gold and other metals and was visited by U.S. Vice President Henry Wallace in 1944. Magadan plays a significant role in transportation with

4182-663: The Novaya Zemlya Archipelago (about 5,000 animals at last count, but most of these are either domestic reindeer or domestic-wild hybrids), the New Siberia Archipelago (about 10,000 to 15,000), and Wrangel Island (200 to 300 feral domestic reindeer). What was once the second largest herd is the migratory Labrador caribou ( R. t. caboti ) George River herd in Canada, with former variations between 28,000 and 385,000. As of January 2018, there are fewer than 9,000 animals estimated to be left in

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4284-792: The Onara Peninsula . The main islands of Magadan Oblast are (north to south) Telan Island , the Yam Islands , Zavyalov Island , Nedorazumeniya Island and the Spafaryev Islands . The animal species in the south include snow sheep , reindeer , moose and brown bears . There are also many varieties of birds, including ducks and seabirds. Coastal waters of the Sea of Okhotsk host notable biodiversity where large vertebrates such as bowhead whales may appear, and have rich fishing grounds for pollock, herring, cod, flounder and salmon, as well as crabs and shellfish. The economy

4386-675: The Port of Magadan and Sokol Airport . The local economy relies on gold mining and fisheries, although gold production has declined. The town has various cultural institutions and religious establishments, such as the Orthodox Holy Trinity Cathedral  [ ru ] and the Roman Catholic Church of the Nativity . The Mask of Sorrow memorial commemorates Stalin's victims. Magadan experiences

4488-681: The Queen Charlotte Islands caribou ( R. t. dawsoni ) from western Canada, the Sakhalin reindeer ( R. t. setoni ) from Sakhalin and the East Greenland caribou from eastern Greenland, although some authorities believe that the latter, R. t. eogroenlandicus Degerbøl, 1957, is a junior synonym of the Peary caribou. Historically, the range of the sedentary boreal woodland caribou covered more than half of Canada and into

4590-600: The Riss glaciations , the second youngest of the Pleistocene Epoch, roughly 300,000–130,000 BP. By the 4-Würm period (110,000–70,000 to 12,000–10,000 BP), its European range was extensive, supplying a major food source for prehistoric Europeans. North American fossils outside of Beringia that predate the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM) are of Rancholabrean age (240,000–11,000 years BP) and occur along

4692-632: The Roman Catholic Church of the Nativity (completed in 2002 ), among others. The Mask of Sorrow memorial, a large sculpture in memory of Stalin's victims, was designed by Ernst Neizvestny . The Church of the Nativity Archived February 23, 2014, at the Wayback Machine ministers to survivors of the labor camps. It is staffed by several priests and nuns. The Magadanka River  [ ru ] ,

4794-944: The Scandinavian mountains and R. t. sibiricus across Siberia) and east ( R. t. arcticus in the North American Barrenlands) when rising seas isolated them. Likewise in North America, DNA analysis shows that woodland caribou ( R. caribou ) diverged from primitive ancestors of tundra / barren-ground caribou not during the LGM, 26,000–19,000 years ago, as previously assumed, but in the Middle Pleistocene around 357,000 years ago. At that time, modern tundra caribou had not even evolved. Woodland caribou are likely more related to extinct North American forest caribou than to barren-ground caribou. For example,

4896-649: The Sea of Okhotsk coast or from reindeer herding in the River Kolyma valley, suffered from the industrialization of the area but were able to rely on institutional support until 1987 when Perestroika started to cause many of the older structures to close. As a result, many of those who can no longer rely on traditional sources of income are now unemployed. Chukotka Autonomous Okrug was formerly administratively subordinated to Magadan Oblast, but declared its separation in 1991. On 4 July 1997, Magadan, alongside Bryansk , Chelyabinsk , Saratov , and Vologda signed

4998-474: The Sámi word raingo . Carl Linnaeus chose the word tarandus as the specific epithet, making reference to Ulisse Aldrovandi 's Quadrupedum omnium bisulcorum historia fol. 859–863, Cap. 30: De Tarando (1621). However, Aldrovandi and Conrad Gessner thought that rangifer and tarandus were two separate animals. In any case, the tarandos name goes back to Aristotle and Theophrastus . The use of

5100-427: The framework of administrative divisions , it is, together with the urban-type settlements of Sokol and Uptar , incorporated as the " town of oblast significance of Magadan"—an administrative unit with the status equal to that of the districts . As a municipal division , the town of oblast significance of Magadan is incorporated as Magadan Urban Okrug . The Port of Magadan is the second largest seaport in

5202-864: The polar desert of the high Arctic Archipelago and Grant's caribou ( R. t. granti also called the Porcupine caribou ) lives in the western end of the Alaska Peninsula and the adjacent islands; the other four subspecies, Osborn's caribou ( R. t. osborni ), Stone's caribou ( R. t. stonei ), the Rocky Mountain caribou ( R. t. fortidens ) and the Selkirk Mountains caribou ( R. t. montanus ) are all montane . The extinct insular Queen Charlotte Islands caribou ( R. t. dawsoni ), lived on Graham Island in Haida Gwaii (formerly known as

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5304-425: The soil remains permanently frozen; although they are still much milder than those of interior eastern Siberia. Average temperatures on the coast of the Sea of Okhotsk range from −22 °C (−8 °F) in January to +12 °C (54 °F) in July. Average temperatures in the interior range from −38 °C (−36 °F) in January to +16 °C (61 °F) in July. Due to the wet nature of October and November,

5406-443: The tundra , taiga (boreal forest) and south through the Canadian Rocky Mountains . Of the eight subspecies classified by Harding (2022) into the Arctic caribou ( R. arcticus ), the migratory mainland barren-ground caribou of Arctic Alaska and Northern Canada ( R. t. arcticus ), summer in tundra and winter in taiga, a transitional forest zone between boreal forest and tundra; the nomadic Peary caribou ( R. t. pearyi ) lives in

5508-422: The Arctic caribou. Siberian tundra reindeer herds are also in decline, and Rangifer as a whole is considered to be Vulnerable by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Charles Hamilton Smith is credited with the name Rangifer for the reindeer genus, which Albertus Magnus used in his De animalibus , fol. Liber 22, Cap. 268: "Dicitur Rangyfer quasi ramifer". This word may go back to

5610-626: The Beverly herd was also indicated by eight alleles found in the Beverly herd which were absent from the Baffin Island samples. Jenkins et al. (2018) also reported genetic distinctiveness of Baffin Island caribou from all other barren-ground caribou; its genetic signature was not found on the mainland or on other islands; nor were Beverly herd (the nearest mainly barren-ground caribou) alleles present in Baffin Island caribou, evidence of reproductive isolation. These advances in Rangifer genetics were brought together with previous morphological-based descriptions, ecology, behavior and archaeology to propose

5712-464: The Eurasian reindeer radiation dates to the large Riss glaciation (347,000 to 128,000 years ago), based on the Norwegian-Svalbard split 225,000 years ago. Finnish forest reindeer ( R. t. fennicus ) likely evolved from Cervus [Rangifer] geuttardi Desmarest, 1822, a reindeer that adapted to forest habitats in Eastern Europe as forests expanded during an interglacial period before the LGM (the Würmian or Weichsel glaciation );. The fossil species geuttardi

5814-399: The George River herd, as reported by the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation . The New York Times reported in April 2018 of the disappearance of the only herd of southern mountain woodland caribou in the contiguous United States , with an expert calling it "functionally extinct" after the herd's size dwindled to a mere three animals. After the last individual, a female, was translocated to

5916-412: The Greenland caribou ( R. t. groenlandicus ) and the Svalbard reindeer ( R. t. platyrhynchus ), although not closely related to each other, were the most genetically divergent among Rangifer clades; that modern (see Evolution above) Eurasian tundra reindeer ( R. t. tarandus and R. t. sibiricus ) and North American barren-ground caribou ( R. t. arcticus ), although sharing ancestry, were separable at

6018-425: The Mammals of the World Vol. 2: Hoofed Mammals . Most Russian authors also recognized R. t. angustirostris , a forest reindeer from east of Lake Baikal . However, since 1991, many genetic studies have revealed deep divergence between modern tundra reindeer and woodland caribou. Geist (2007) and others continued arguing that the woodland caribou was incorrectly classified, noting that "true woodland caribou,

6120-457: The North-East of Russia after Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky located on Nagaev Bay and Sea of Okhotsk . It operates all year round with the help of icebreakers. There is currently no operating railway in Magadan. However, the Magadan-Palatka line was operational between 1941 and 1956. Russian Railways are considering the possibility of building a railway from the Nizhny Bestyakh of the Amur-Yakutsk railway to Magadan by 2035, which will contribute to

6222-431: The Queen Charlotte Islands). The boreal woodland caribou ( R. t. caribou ), lives in the boreal forest of northeastern Canada: the Labrador or Ungava caribou of northern Quebec and northern Labrador ( R. t. caboti ), and the Newfoundland caribou of Newfoundland ( R. t. terranovae ) have been found to be genetically in the woodland caribou lineage. In Eurasia, both wild and domestic reindeer are distributed across

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6324-418: The Reindeer and Caribou, Genus Rangifer (1961), eliminated R. t. caboti (the Labrador caribou), R. t. osborni (Osborn's caribou — from British Columbia ) and R. t. terranovae (the Newfoundland caribou) as invalid and included only barren-ground caribou , renamed as R. t. groenlandicus (formerly R. arcticus ) and woodland caribou as R. t. caribou . However, Banfield made multiple errors, eliciting

6426-657: The Siberian forest reindeer ( R. t. valentinae , formerly called the Busk Mountains reindeer ( R. t. buskensis ) by American taxonomists) occupies the Altai and Ural Mountains . Male ("bull") and female ("cow") reindeer can grow antlers annually, although the proportion of females that grow antlers varies greatly between populations. Antlers are typically larger on males. Antler architecture varies by species and subspecies and, together with pelage differences, can often be used to distinguish between species and subspecies (see illustrations in Geist, 1991 and Geist, 1998). About 25,000 mountain reindeer ( R. t. tarandus ) still live in

6528-509: The Yukon as invalid subspecies of woodland caribou, then R. t. caribou . This left the small, migratory barren-ground caribou of Alaska and the Yukon, including the Porcupine caribou herd, without a name, which Banfield rectified in his 1974 Mammals of Canada by extending to them the name " granti ". The late Valerius Geist (1998), in the only error in his whole illustrious career, re-analyzed Banfield's data with additional specimens found in an unpublished report he cites as "Skal, 1982", but

6630-420: The area. Town status was granted to it on July 14, 1939. Magadan was visited by U.S. Vice President Henry Wallace in May 1944. He took an instant liking to his NKVD host, admired handiwork done by the enslaved political prisoners, and later glowingly called the town a combination of Tennessee Valley Authority and Hudson's Bay Company . Magadan is the administrative centre of the oblast . Within

6732-522: The coordination of Dalstroy and its forced labor camps. Upon Stalin's death, Dalstroy was disbanded and the regional administration took over many of its former responsibilities. From then on, paid labor replaced most of the convict-based manpower, attracted by the region's rapid economic expansion, especially the gold-mining interests. The indigenous peoples of the region, including the Evens , Koryaks , Yupiks , Chukchis , Orochs , Chuvans and Itelmens , who had traditionally lived from fishing along

6834-417: The development of an area with huge mineral deposits. Magadan is the final destination of the federal highway R504 Kolyma Highway , which connects the region with Yakutia and other parts of Russia. Anadyr Highway , currently under construction, will provide access to Chukotka Autonomous Okrug . Sokol Airport and Magadan-13 airport provide access to air transport for numerous destinations in Russia with

6936-415: The early taxonomists. Similarly, working on museum collections where skins were often faded and in poor states of preservation, early taxonomists could not readily perceive differences in coat patterns that are consistent within a subspecies, but variable among them. Geist calls these "nuptial" characteristics: sexually selected characters that are highly conserved and diagnostic among subspecies. Towards

7038-652: The end of the 19th century, national museums began sending out biological exploration expeditions and collections accumulated. Taxonomists, usually working for the museums, began naming subspecies more rigorously, based on statistical differences in detailed cranial, dental and skeletal measurements than antlers and pelage, supplemented by better knowledge of differences in ecology and behavior. From 1898 to 1937, mammalogists named 12 new species (other than barren-ground and woodland, which had been named earlier) of caribou in Canada and Alaska, and three new species and nine new subspecies in Eurasia, each properly described according to

7140-437: The evolution" of Rangifer species and other Arctic and sub-Arctic species. Isolation of tundra-adapted species Rangifer in Last Glacial Maximum refugia during the last glacial – the Wisconsin glaciation in North America and the Weichselian glaciation in Eurasia – shaped "intraspecific genetic variability " particularly between the North American and Eurasian parts of the Arctic . Reindeer / caribou ( Rangifer ) are in

7242-441: The evolving rules of zoological nomenclature, with type localities designated and type specimens deposited in museums (see table in Species and subspecies below). In the mid-20th century, as definitions of "species" evolved, mammalogists in Europe and North America made all Rangifer species conspecific with R. tarandus , and synonymized most of the subspecies. Alexander William Francis Banfield 's often-cited A Revision of

7344-465: The extinct caribou Torontoceros [Rangifer] hypogaeus , had features (robust and short pedicles, smooth antler surface, and high position of second tine) that relate it to forest caribou. Humans started hunting reindeer in both the Mesolithic and Neolithic Periods, and humans are today the main predator in many areas. Norway and Greenland have unbroken traditions of hunting wild reindeer from

7446-540: The females. Their bez tines are set low, just above the brow tine, which is vertically flattened to protect the eyes while the buck "threshes" low brush, a courtship display. The low bez tines help the wide flat brow tines dig craters in the hard-packed tundra snow for forage, for which reason brow tines are often called "shovels" in North America and "ice tines" in Europe. The differences in antler architecture reflect fundamental differences in ecology and behavior, and in turn deep divisions in ancestry that were not apparent to

7548-754: The former being for big aircraft and the latter is mainly for small aircraft. Magadan is also the home of the Magadan/Sokol Flight Information Region (FIR) and Magadan Oceanic FIR, which controls the Northeastern part of the Russia and its Arctic airspace. Most of the westbound transpacific flights from North America to Asia will use those FIRs. The principal sources of income for the local economy are gold mining and fisheries. Recently, gold production has declined. Fishing production, although improving from year to year,

7650-770: The four western Canadian montane ecotypes are not woodland caribou: they share a common ancestor with modern barren-ground caribou / tundra reindeer, but distantly, having diverged > 60,000 years ago — before the modern ecotypes had evolved their cold- and darkness-adapted physiologies and mass-migration and aggregation behaviors (see Evolution above). Before Banfield (1961), taxonomists using cranial, dental and skeletal measurements had unequivocally allied these western montane ecotypes with barren-ground caribou, naming them (as in Osgood 1909 Murie, 1935 and Anderson 1946, among others) R. t. stonei , R. t. montanus , R. t. fortidens and R. t. osborni , respectively, and this phylogeny

7752-619: The fringes of the Rocky Mountain and Laurentide ice sheets as far south as northern Alabama ; and in Sangamonian deposits (~100,000 years BP) from western Canada. A R. t. pearyi -sized caribou occupied Greenland before and after the LGM and persisted in a relict enclave in northeastern Greenland until it went extinct about 1900 (see discussion of R. t. eogroenlandicus below). Archaeological excavations showed that larger barren-ground-sized caribou appeared in western Greenland about 4,000 years ago. The late Valerius Geist (1998) dates

7854-536: The genus Rangifer as R. grœnlandicus . It went back and forth as a full species or subspecies of the barren-ground caribou ( R. arcticus ) or a subspecies of the tundra reindeer ( R. tarandus ), but always as the Greenland reindeer / caribou. Taxonomists consistently documented morphological differences between Greenland and other caribou / reindeer in cranial measurements, dentition, antler architecture, etc. Then Banfield (1961) in his famously flawed revision, gave

7956-485: The larger caribou that appeared in Greenland 4,000 years ago originated from Baffin Island (itself unique; see Taxonomy above), a reconstruction of LGM glacial retreat and caribou advance (Yannic et al. 2013) shows colonization by NAL lineage caribou more likely. Their PCA and tree diagrams show Greenland caribou clustering outside of the Beringian-Eurasian lineage. The scientific name R. t. granti has

8058-649: The mountains of Norway, notably in Hardangervidda . In Sweden there are approximately 250,000 reindeer in herds managed by Sámi villages. Russia manages 19 herds of Siberian tundra reindeer ( R. t. sibiricus ) that total about 940,000. The Taimyr herd of Siberian tundra reindeer is the largest wild reindeer herd in the world, varying between 400,000 and 1,000,000; it is a metapopulation consisting of several subpopulations — some of which are phenotypically different — with different migration routes and calving areas. The Kamchatkan reindeer ( R. t. phylarchus ),

8160-550: The name groenlandicus to all the barren-ground caribou in North America, Greenland included, because groenlandicus pre-dates Richardson's R. arctus . However, because genetic data shows the Greenland caribou to be the most distantly related of any caribou to all the others (genetic distance, FST = 44%, whereas most cervid (deer family) species have a genetic distance of 2% to 5% )--as well as behavioral and morphological differences—a recent revision returned it to species status as R. groenlandicus . Although it has been assumed that

8262-626: The northern states of the contiguous United States from Maine to Washington . Boreal woodland caribou have disappeared from most of their original southern range and were designated as Threatened in 2002 by the Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada (COSEWIC). Environment and Climate Change Canada reported in 2011 that there were approximately 34,000 boreal woodland caribou in 51 ranges remaining in Canada (Environment Canada, 2011b), although those numbers included montane populations classified by Harding (2022) into subspecies of

8364-611: The oblast's fishing companies operate mainly in Russia's economic zone, the Sea of Okhotsk and the Bering Sea , and to some extent in the Sea of Japan. Most of the catch comes from coastal waters. Fishing industry companies are concentrated in Magadan , Ola , Yamsk , and Evensk . The most important commercial fish are pollock , herring , cod, navaga (a member of the cod family), flounder, and various kinds of salmon. Crabs , squid , shrimp , and whelks are also caught. Owing to

8466-405: The population declares itself to be "spiritual but not religious", 13% is atheist , and 20.4% follows other religions or did not give an answer to the question. Magadan Magadan (Russian: Магадан , IPA: [məɡɐˈdan] ) is a port town and the administrative centre of Magadan Oblast , Russia . The city is located on the isthmus of the Staritsky Peninsula by

8568-405: The population of the rural areas of the districts is simply disappearing. The rural population of Yagodninsky District was reduced from 13,843 (1991) to 445 (2007). The Omsukchansky District saw its rural population plummet from 1,301 to 79. Especially extreme is the example of Susumansky District , where the rural population almost disappeared: from 9,764 in 1991 to just 116 in 2007. Emigration

8670-415: The previously named subspecies distributions, without naming them as such, plus some ecotypes. Ecotypes are not phylogenetically based and cannot substitute for taxonomy. Meanwhile, genetic data continued to accumulate, revealing sufficiently deep divisions to easily separate Rangifer back into six previously named species and to resurrect several previously named subspecies. Molecular data showed that

8772-537: The recent revision (see Reindeer#Taxonomy below). Reindeer / caribou ( Rangifer ) vary in size from the smallest, the Svalbard reindeer ( R. ( t. ) platyrhynchus ), to the largest, Osborn's caribou ( R. t. osborni ). They also vary in coat color and antler architecture. The North American range of caribou extends from Alaska through the Yukon , the Northwest Territories and Nunavut throughout

8874-483: The recent revision): In North America, R. t. caboti , R. t. caribou , R. t. dawsoni , R. t. groenlandicus , R. t. osborni , R. t. pearyi , and R. t. terranovae ; and in Eurasia, R. t. tarandus , R. t. buskensis (called R. t. valentinae in Europe; see below), R. t. phylarchus , R. t. pearsoni , R. t. sibiricus and R. t. platyrhynchus . These subspecies were retained in the 2011 replacement work Handbook of

8976-532: The region. The growing season is only one hundred days long. The city of Magadan is on the same longitude as the suburbs of Greater Western Sydney , Australia , which lie on the eastern end of the 150th meridian east line, bordering the 151st meridian and is on the same latitude as Southern Scandinavia , and the far north of Scotland . The climate of Magadan is subarctic ( Köppen climate classification Dfc ). Winters are prolonged and very cold, with up to six months of sub-zero high temperatures , so that

9078-778: The result that many inhabitants have left the region. Recently, there does seem to have been renewed efforts to encourage foreign investment which could lead to improvements in the economy. Indeed, on a visit to Magadan in November 2005, President Vladimir Putin supported the extension of special tax advantages for the region in order to encourage gold exploitation. Population : 136,085 ( 2021 Census ) ; 156,996 ( 2010 Census ) ; 182,726 ( 2002 Census ) ; 542,868 ( 1989 Soviet census ) . Vital statistics for 2022: Total fertility rate (2022): 1.43 children per woman Life expectancy (2021): Total — 67.41 years (male — 62.48, female — 72.51) Magadan

9180-541: The severe climate, agriculture is Magadan Region's least developed economic sector; as a result, 50% of all food products must be supplied from outside. The agricultural complex consists of companies producing agricultural products, the food and processing industries, a production infrastructure, and farm enterprises. The particular areas of specialization are reindeer herding , fur farming , and traditional hunting , fishing , and fur trapping activities. Companies involved in food processing and production include Gormolzavod,

9282-433: The smallest, the Svalbard reindeer ( R. ( t. ) platyrhynchus ), to the largest, Osborn's caribou ( R. t. osborni ). Although reindeer are quite numerous, some species and subspecies are in decline and considered vulnerable . They are unique among deer (Cervidae) in that females may have antlers , although the prevalence of antlered females varies by subspecies. Reindeer are the only successfully semi-domesticated deer on

9384-498: The subfamily Odocoileinae , along with roe deer ( Capreolus ), Eurasian elk / moose ( Alces ), and water deer ( Hydropotes ). These antlered cervids split from the horned ruminants Bos (cattle and yaks), Ovis (sheep) and Capra (goats) about 36 million years ago. The Eurasian clade of Odocoileinae (Capreolini, Hydropotini and Alcini) split from the New World tribes of Capreolinae ( Odocoileini and Rangiferini) in

9486-430: The subspecies level; that Finnish forest reindeer ( R. t. fennicus ) clustered well apart from both wild and domestic tundra reindeer and that boreal woodland caribou ( R. t. caribou ) were separable from all others. Meanwhile, archaeological evidence was accumulating that Eurasian forest reindeer descended from an extinct forest-adapted reindeer and not from tundra reindeer (see Evolution above); since they do not share

9588-626: The terms reindeer and caribou for essentially the same animal can cause confusion, but the ICUN clearly delineates the issue: "Reindeer is the European name for the species of Rangifer, while in North America, Rangifer species are known as Caribou." The word reindeer is an anglicized version of the Old Norse words hreinn ("reindeer") and dýr ("animal") and has nothing to do with reins. The word caribou comes through French, from

9690-499: The tundra and into the taiga. Eurasian mountain reindeer ( R. t. tarandus ) are close to North American caribou genetically and visually, but with sufficient differences to warrant division into two species. The unique, insular Svalbard reindeer inhabits the Svalbard Archipelago . The Finnish forest reindeer ( R. t. fennicus ) is spottily distributed in the coniferous forest zones from Finland to east of Lake Baikal :

9792-947: The uniformly dark, small-maned type with the frontally emphasized, flat-beamed antlers", is "scattered thinly along the southern rim of North American caribou distribution". He affirms that the "true woodland caribou is very rare, in very great difficulties and requires the most urgent of attention." In 2011, noting that the former classifications of Rangifer tarandus , either with prevailing taxonomy on subspecies, designations based on ecotypes , or natural population groupings, failed to capture "the variability of caribou across their range in Canada" needed for effective subspecies conservation and management, COSEWIC developed Designatable Unit (DU) attribution, an adaptation of "evolutionary significant units". The 12 designatable units for caribou in Canada (that is, excluding Alaska and Greenland) based on ecology, behavior and, importantly, genetics (but excluding morphology and archaeology) essentially followed

9894-494: The various forms of the Woodland Caribou are so great in almost every respect that no detailed comparison is necessary. ...According to Mr. Stone, Rangifer granti inhabits the " barren land of Alaska Peninsula, ranging well up into the mountains in summer, but descending to the lower levels in winter, generally feeding on the low flat lands near the coast and in the foothills...As regards cranial characters no comparison

9996-526: Was Eduard Berzin , who between 1932 and 1937 established the infrastructure of the forced labour camps in Magadan. Berzin was executed in 1938 by Stalin, towards the end of the Great Purge . The town later served as a port for exporting gold and other metals mined in the Kolyma region . Its size and population grew quickly as facilities were rapidly developed for the expanding mining activities in

10098-463: Was "not able to find diagnostic features that could segregate this form from the western barren ground type." But Skal 1982 had included specimens from the eastern end of the Alaska Peninsula and the Kenai Peninsula , the range of the larger Stone's caribou. Later, geneticists comparing barren-ground caribou of Alaska with those of mainland Canada found little difference and they all became

10200-920: Was confirmed by genetic analysis. DNA also revealed three unnamed clades that, based on genetic distance, genetic divergence and shared vs. private haplotypes and alleles , together with ecological and behavioral differences, may justify separation at the subspecies level: the Atlantic- Gaspésie caribou (COSEWIC DU11), an eastern montane ecotype of the boreal woodland caribou, and the Baffin Island caribou. Neither one of these clades has yet been formally described or named. Jenkins et al. (2012) said that "[Baffin Island] caribou are unique compared to other Barrenground herds, as they do not overwinter in forested habitat, nor do all caribou undertake long seasonal migrations to calving areas." It also shares

10302-462: Was later replaced by R. constantini , which was adapted for grasslands, in a second immigration 19,000–20,000 years ago when the LGM turned its forest habitats into tundra, while fennicus survived in isolation in southwestern Europe. R. constantini was then replaced by modern tundra / barren-ground caribou adapted to extreme cold, probably in Beringia, before dispersing west ( R. t. tarandus in

10404-521: Was selected as the senior synonym to R. t. valentinae Flerov, 1933, in Mammal Species of the World but Russian authors do not recognize Millais and Millais' articles in a hunting travelogue, The Gun at Home and Abroad , seem short of a taxonomic authority. The scientific name groenlandicus is fraught with problems. Edwards (1743) illustrated and claimed to have seen a male specimen ("head of perfect horns...") from Greenland and said that

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