65-581: The Maralinga Tjarutja , or Maralinga Tjarutja Council , is the corporation representing the traditional Anangu owners of the remote western areas of South Australia known as the Maralinga Tjarutja lands. The council was established by the Maralinga Tjarutja Land Rights Act 1984 . The area is one of the four regions of South Australia classified as an Aboriginal Council (AC), and its official consideration as
130-506: A ceremonial site , trade node and meeting place for other groups, from the northeast who would travel several hundred miles to visit kin. Among the peoples who congregated there were tribes from the Kokatha and Ngalea northern groups and Wirangu of south-east and Mirning south-west. By the time Daisy Bates (1919–1935) took up residence there it was thought that earlier groups had disappeared, replaced by an influx of spinifex people from
195-464: A local government area differs between federal and state sources. The Aboriginal Australian people whose historic rights over the area have been officially recognised belong to the southern branch of the Pitjantjatjara people . The land includes a large area of land contaminated by British nuclear testing in the 1950s , for which the inhabitants were eventually compensated in 1991. There
260-498: A grey dust when disturbed. Their word for "grey", namely tjilpi also signified the greying elders of a tribe, and the Aboriginal residents of Yalata called the new area parna tjilpi , the "grey earth/ground", suggesting that their forced relocation to Yalata went concomitantly with ageing towards death. Between 1956 and 1957, seven atomic bombs were exploded on Maralinga land. In further minor trials from 1957 to 1962, plutonium
325-590: A roughly square-shaped enclave within the council area. The land surveyed and known as Section 400, 120 km (46 sq mi) within the Taranaki Plumes, was returned to Traditional Ownership in 2007. This land includes the area of land occupied by the Maralinga Township and the areas in which atomic tests were carried out by the British and Australian governments. The final part of
390-484: A single-geared bike. In January 2017, Austrian cyclist Christoph Strasser set the current record from Norseman to Ceduna of 1 day, 21 hours, 42 minutes. The first non-Indigenous person to walk across Australia from the west to the east coast, Henri Gilbert , crossed the Nullarbor Plain on foot, with no support team or stock, in the middle of summer. His walk across Australia, from Fremantle to Brisbane ,
455-528: A small kit and a waterbag, he followed the telegraph line as he crossed the Nullarbor. He later described the heat as "1,000 degrees in the shade". In 1937 Hubert Opperman set a record fastest time of 13 days, 10 hours and 11 minutes for the transcontinental crossing from Fremantle to Sydney. His time cut five days off the previous record. During their three-year cycling trip around Australia between 1946 and 1949, Wendy Law Suart and Shirley Duncan became
520-465: A water supply. This original line suffered severe problems with track flexing and settling in the desert sands, and journeys across the Plain were slow and arduous. The line was entirely rebuilt in 1969, as part of a project to standardise the previously disparate rail gauges in the various states, and the first crossing of the Nullarbor on the new line reached Perth on 27 February 1970. The Indian Pacific
585-565: Is a community centre at Oak Valley , 840 km (520 mi) NW of Ceduna , and close historical and kinship links with the Yalata 350 km (220 mi) south, and the Pila Nguru centre of Tjuntjuntjara 370 km (230 mi) to their west. The Maralinga Tjarutja people belong to a general Western Desert ecological zone sharing cultural affinities with the Pitjantjatjara , Yankunytjatjara and Ngaanyatjarra to their north and
650-409: Is a former shallow seabed , as indicated by the presence of bryozoans , foraminifera , echinoids and red algae calcareous skeletons that make up the limestone . The region is also the location of "Nullarbor limestone" and it has a reputation as a significant karst region with Oligocene and Miocene cave formations. The sequence within the limestone includes five formations: One theory
715-559: Is a regular passenger train crossing the Nullarbor from Perth to Sydney via Adelaide . The railway line has the longest straight section of railway in the world (478 km; 297 mi), while the Eyre Highway (refer below) contains the longest straight section of tarred road in Australia (146 km; 91 mi). Most of the inhabited areas of the Nullarbor Plain can be found in a series of small settlements located along
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#1732772289320780-670: Is difficult to type, so the word is very commonly, but incorrectly, rendered as anangu . The Aṉangu dwell primarily in the Central Western desert, to the south of the traditional lands of the Arrernte and Walpiri peoples. The inma is a cultural ceremony of Aṉangu women, involving song and dance and embodying the stories and designs of the tjukurpa (Ancestral Law, or Dreamtime). The ceremony carries camaraderie, joy, playfulness and seriousness, and may last for hours. There are many different inma, all profoundly significant to
845-511: Is in Ceduna . The Maralinga Tjarutja and the Pila Nguru (or Spinifex people ) also jointly own and administer the 21,357.85-square-kilometre (8,246.31 sq mi) Mamungari Conservation Park , which area is contained in the area total for the council area. Emu Field is now part of the council area, too, while the 3,300-square-kilometre (1,300 sq mi) Maralinga area is still
910-563: Is that the whole area was uplifted by crustal movements in the Miocene, and since then, erosion by wind and rain has reduced its thickness. The plain has most likely never had any major defining topographic features, resulting in the extremely flat terrain across the plain today. According to Curtin University research published in 2023, "Nullarbor drastically shifted to dry conditions between 2.4 and 2.7 million years ago". In areas,
975-524: Is the name used by members of several Aboriginal Australian groups, roughly approximate to the Western Desert cultural bloc , to describe themselves. The term, which embraces several distinct "tribes" or peoples, in particular the Ngaanyatjarra , Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara groups, is pronounced with the stress on the first syllable: [ˈaɳaŋʊ] . The original meaning of
1040-458: The Pila Nguru of the spinifex plains to their west, They speak dialects of Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara . The term maralinga is not of local origin. It is a term chosen from the Garig or Garik dialect of the now-extinct Northern Territory Ilgar language , signifying "field of thunder/thunder", and was selected to designate the area where atomic bomb testing was to be undertaken by
1105-539: The Rainbow serpent of Arnhem Land myth, was regarded as the creator of these kapi , and figured prominently in male initiation ceremonies. Ooldea or Yuldi/Yutulynga/Yooldool (the place of abundant water) sits on a permanent underground aquifer . The area is thought to have been originally part of Wirangu land, lying on its northern border, though it fell within the boundaries of a Kokatha emu totem group. It served several Aboriginal peoples, furnishing them with
1170-644: The Wangai people from their homeland. Since then, they have been awarded compensation, and many have returned to the general area. Others never left. Some agricultural interests are on the fringe of the plain including the 2.5-million-acre (1-million-hectare) Rawlinna Station , the largest sheep station in the world, on the Western Australian side of the plain. The property has a short history compared to other properties of its type around Australia, having been established in 1962 by Hugh G. MacLachlan, of
1235-856: The World Wildlife Fund . The ecoregion is coterminous with the Nullarbor biogeographic region under the Interim Biogeographic Regionalisation for Australia (IBRA). The ecoregion is bounded on the west and southwest by the Coolgardie woodlands ecoregion, on the north and northeast by the Great Victoria Desert , on the southeast by the Eyre and Yorke mallee , and on the south by the Great Australian Bight . Vegetation in
1300-399: The 1,782 km (688 sq mi) former nuclear test site was returned in 2014. Maralinga Tjarutja , a May 2020 television documentary film directed by Larissa Behrendt and made by Blackfella Films for ABC Television , tells the story of the people of Maralinga. It was deliberately broadcast around the same time that the drama series Operation Buffalo was on, to give voice to
1365-523: The Australian 1981 thriller film Roadgames . The film was directed by Richard Franklin and starred Stacy Keach and Jamie Lee Curtis . The film has often been cited as one of the best Hitchcock films Alfred Hitchcock never made . On 25 December 1896, after an arduous journey of thirty-one days, Arthur Charles Jeston Richardson became the first cyclist to cross the Nullarbor Plain, pedaling his bicycle from Coolgardie to Adelaide. Carrying only
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#17327722893201430-692: The Indies, Pieter Nuyts , on the Dutch East Indiaman 't Gulden Zeepaert (the Golden Seahorse). In 1626–1627, they charted a stretch of the southern Australian coast east of Cape Leeuwin and extending to longitude 133 30'E. While the interior remained little known to Europeans over the next two centuries, the stretch of coast adjoining the Great Australian Bight was named for Nuyts, and maps subsequent to 1627 bore
1495-470: The Indigenous people of the area and show how it disrupted their lives. Screenhub gave it 4.5 stars, calling it an "excellent documentary". The film shows the resilience of the Maralinga Tjarutja people, in which the elders "reveal a perspective of deep time and an understanding of place that generates respect for the sacredness of both", their ancestors having lived in the area for millennia. Despite
1560-545: The Maralinga Tjarutja and Pila Nguru people. The land, 1,000 kilometres (620 mi) north-west of Adelaide and abutting the Western Australia border, is now known as Mamungari Conservation Park . It includes the Serpentine Lakes and was the largest land return since Premier John Bannon 's hand over of Maralinga lands in 1984. The returned lands included the sacred Ooldea area, which also included
1625-608: The Nullarbor Plain, E.A. Delisser in his journal named both Nullarbor and Eucla for the first time. A proposed new state of Auralia (meaning "land of gold") would have comprised the Goldfields, the western portion of the Nullarbor Plain and the port town of Esperance . Its capital would have been Kalgoorlie . During the British nuclear tests at Maralinga in the 1950s, the Australian Government removed
1690-499: The South Australian pastoral family. An older property is Madura Station , situated closer to the coast; it has a size of 1.7 million acres (690,000 ha) and is also stocked with sheep. Madura was established prior to 1927; the extent of the property at that time was reported as two million acres (810,000 hectares). In 2013, a huge area of the Nullarbor Plain, stretching almost 200 km (120 mi) from
1755-508: The United Aborigines Missions established itself there, drawing substantial numbers of desert folk to the site for food and clothing, and four years later, the government established a 2,000-square-mile (5,200 km) reserve. In 1941, the anthropologists Ronald and Catherine Berndt spent several months in the Aboriginal camp at the water soak and mission, and in the following three-year period (1942–1945) wrote one of
1820-669: The Western Australian border to the Great Australian Bight, was proclaimed as the Nullarbor Wilderness Protection Area under the Wilderness Protection Act 1992 (SA), doubling the area of land in South Australia under environmental protection to 1.8 million hectares (4.4 million acres). The area contains 390 species of plants and a large number of habitats for rare species of animals and birds. The Nullarbor Plain
1885-545: The administration of his successor Frank Walsh , short two-week long bush trips were permitted, enabling them to re-connect with their traditional lifestyles. As negotiations got underway in the 1980s, the Indigenous peoples started setting up outstations near their original lands. With the passage of the Maralinga Tjarutja Land Rights Act 1984 under Premier John Bannon 's government, the Maralinga Tjarutja secured freehold title in 1984, and
1950-555: The archives of public institutions, while others had been packed away in boxes and forgotten. By 2018, Ara Irititja had tracked down hundreds of thousands of items and made them available through interactive software, keeping them safe in a digital archive . Cultural priorities have been built into the software, and Anangu can navigate the database, add information, stories and reflections, and alert administrators to specific items requiring restricted access. This enables Anangu to have control over how their history and culture are presented to
2015-443: The area across the Nullarbor and Great Australian Bight was a "hideous anomaly, a blot on the face of Nature, the sort of place one gets into in bad dreams". Eyre departed westwards from Fowlers Bay, South Australia on 17 November 1840 with John Baxter and a party of three Aboriginal men. When three of his horses died of dehydration , he returned to Fowler's Bay. He departed with a second expedition on 25 February 1841. By 29 April,
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2080-474: The area is primarily low saltbush ( Atriplex spp.) and bluebush ( Maireana spp.) scrub. The fauna of the Nullarbor includes communities of crustaceans , spiders , and beetles adapted to the darkness of the Nullarbor Caves and the underground rivers and lakes that run through them. Mammals of the desert include the southern hairy-nosed wombat , which shelters from the hot sun by burrowing into
2145-531: The arid climate. In particular, many meteorites have been discovered around Mundrabilla , some up to several tonnes in weight. According to the USDA soil taxonomy system, the Nullarbor's soils are classified as mainly consisting of aridisols . Frequently The Nullarbor is expanded in tourist literature and web-based material to loosely refer to all the land between Adelaide , South Australia and Perth , Western Australia . Through observing satellite images,
2210-524: The border between South Australia and Western Australia . Historically, the Nullarbor was seasonally occupied by Indigenous Australian people , the Mirning clans and Yinyila people. Traditionally, the area was called Oondiri , which is said to mean 'the waterless'. The first Europeans known to have sighted and mapped the Nullarbor coast were Captain François Thijssen and Councillor of
2275-486: The boundary between eastern and western Australia, regardless of the travel method. The press might write that a prime minister who visits Perth has "headed across the Nullarbor". "Crossing the Nullarbor", for many Australians, is a quintessential experience of the "Australian Outback ". Stickers bought from roadhouses on the highway show "I have crossed the Nullarbor", and can be seen on vehicles of varying quality or capacity for long-distance travel. The process of "beating
2340-730: The callous disregard for their occupation of the land shown by the British and Australians involved in the testing, the people have continued to fight for their rights to look after the contaminated land . The film, which was produced by Darren Dale , won the 2020 AACTA Award for Best Direction in Nonfiction Television and the Silver Award for Documentary (Human Rights) at the 2021 New York Festivals TV & Film Awards. 26°29′25″S 132°00′28″E / 26.4902777778°S 132.007777778°E / -26.4902777778; 132.007777778 Anangu Aṉangu
2405-554: The centre. The unsealed Trans Access Road closely follows the Trans-Australian Railway , running all the way from Kalgoorlie to Port Augusta and onward. It services the numerous cattle and sheep stations that populate the Western side of the Nullarbor and affords access to rail maintenance teams. It is a brutally rough road and—despite the amount of traffic it carries—is poorly maintained. The Nullarbor represents
2470-570: The cleanup has been disputed on a number of occasions. In 2003 South Australian Premier Mike Rann opened a new school costing A$ 2,000,000 at Oak Valley . The new school replaced two caravans with no running water or air-conditioning, a facility that had been described as the "worst school in Australia". In May 2004, following the passage of special legislation, Rann fulfilled a pledge he had made to Maralinga leader Archie Barton as Aboriginal Affairs Minister in 1991, by handing back title to 21,000 square kilometres (8,100 sq mi) of land to
2535-434: The coast, the temperature is milder with more rainfall in the winter months. The mean annual rainfall at Cook is 184.1 millimetres (7.25 in), with most rain falling between May and August. Summers are very dry, with rain falling mainly from sporadic storms; however, occasionally decaying tropical systems can cause heavier rain in the summer months. Temperatures on the plain have ranged from 49.9 °C (121.8 °F) at
2600-546: The community at Ooldea was forcibly removed from the land and resettled further south at Yalata , in 1952. Road blocks and soldiers barred any return. Yalata, bordering on the Nullarbor Plain offered a totally different ecological environment; in place of the spinifex plains to the north, the Maralinga Tjaruta people found an arid stone plain, with poor thin soil and a powdery limestone that kicked up
2665-683: The crowds" on overbooked and overpriced air services at the time of special sporting events can also see significant numbers of vehicles on the road. Crossing the Nullarbor in the 1950s and earlier was a significant achievement, as most of the route then was a dirt track of variable quality, and presenting real hazards to the motorist. It presented one of the major challenges in Round-Australia car trials (the Redex and Ampol Trials ) and gave photographers many opportunities for shots of daring driving and motoring misfortune. The Nullarbor features in
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2730-669: The culture. Aṟa Irititja (meaning "stories from a long time ago" ) is a project of Ara Irititja Aboriginal Corporation, which works in collaboration with the South Australian Museum and Anangu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara at Umuwa . The project began in 1994 with the aim of repatriating cultural items which had been "lost" over the years to Anangu of the Ngaanyatjarra, Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara lands. These included cultural artefacts , photographs, films and sound recordings . Some had ended up in
2795-454: The ecoregion is in protected areas. Protected areas include: The need for a communications link across the continent was the spur for the development of an east–west crossing. Once Eyre had proved that a link between South Australia and Western Australia was possible, efforts to connect them via telegraph began. In 1877, after two years of labour, the first messages were sent on the new telegraph line, boosted by eight repeater stations along
2860-488: The first scientific ethnographies of an Australian tribal group, based on his interviews in a community of some 700 desert people. Traditional life still continued since Ooldea lay on the fringe of the desert, and incoming Aboriginal people could return to their old hunting style. When the Australian Government decided in the early 1950s to set aside the Emu Field and Maralinga in the area for British nuclear testing ,
2925-407: The first women to cycle across the Plain. Between 29 June and 3 July 2015, brothers Tyron and Aaron Bicknell recorded the fastest-known crossing of the Nullarbor Plain on single speed bicycles. Their ride took advantage of the low temperatures in the Australian winter months and was completed over 4 days, 5 hours and 21 minutes, making it one of the fastest bicycle crossings and the fastest done with
2990-593: The legend "Landt van P. Nuyts" or "Terre de Nuyts". That survives as two geographical names in West Australia: Nuytsland Nature Reserve and Nuyts Land District , and in South Australia as Nuyts Reef, Cape Nuyts and the Nuyts Archipelago . Edward John Eyre became the first European to successfully cross the Nullarbor (from East to West) in 1841. In writing about Eyre's voyages in 1865, Henry Kingsley wrote that
3055-533: The like-named Nullarbor, South Australia which is the fourth hottest recorded temperature (and the hottest recorded December temperature) in all of Australia, to −7.2 °C (19.0 °F) at Eyre , which is the coldest recorded temperature in Western Australia. The Nullarbor Plain constitutes a deserts and xeric shrublands ecoregion , called the Nullarbor Plains xeric shrublands by
3120-483: The limits of the limestone formation of the plain can be seen to stretch from approximately 20 km (12 mi) west of the original Balladonia settlement (now abandoned) to its easternmost limit a few kilometres west of the town of Ceduna. The Nullarbor has a desert climate , with arid to semi-arid conditions. Inland, summers can be scorching hot, with daytime temperatures close to 50 °C (122 °F), while in winter nights can drop well below freezing. Closer to
3185-481: The north. By her time, the Trans-Australian Railway route had just been completed, coinciding with a drought that drew the Western desert peoples to the depot at Ooldea. Beginning in the 1890s, there was a gradual encroachment by pastoralists up to the southern periphery of the Nullarbor Plain , but the lack of adequate water to sustain stock maintained the region relatively intact from intense exploitation. In 1933
3250-648: The party had reached Caiguna . Lack of supplies and water led to a mutiny . Two of the Aboriginal men killed Baxter and took the party's supplies. Eyre and the third Aboriginal man, Wylie , continued on their journey, surviving through bushcraft and some fortuitous circumstances such as receiving some supplies from a French whaling vessel anchored at Rossiter Bay , Western Australia, some 36 kilometres (22 mi) east of Esperance . They completed their journey in Albany in June 1841. In August 1865, while travelling across
3315-624: The railway, and in small settlements along the Eyre Highway that provide services to travellers, mostly spaced between one and two hundred kilometres apart. The town of Cook , in South Australia , was formerly a moderately thriving settlement of about 40 people, with a school and a golf course. The reduction of railway operations at the town resulted in its virtual desertion, and it now has a permanent population of four. The Tea and Sugar Train operated until 1996, supplying provisions to
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#17327722893203380-712: The right to developmental funds from the State and Federal governments. They completed a move back into the area, to a new community called Oak Valley in March 1985. Under an agreement between the governments of the United Kingdom and Australia in 1995, efforts were made to clean up the Maralinga site, being completed in 1995. Tonnes of soil and debris contaminated with plutonium and uranium were buried in two trenches about 16 metres (52 ft) deep. The effectiveness of
3445-531: The sands, as well as typical desert animals such as red kangaroos and dingoes . An elusive subspecies of the Australian masked owl unique to the Nullarbor is known to roost in the many caves on the plain. The grasslands of the Nullarbor are suitable for some sheep grazing and are also damaged by rabbits . The caves provide roosts to large colonies of wattled microbats, species Chalinolobus morio . A 2017 assessment found that 62,317 km , or 32%, of
3510-491: The site of Daisy Bates ' mission camp. In 2014, the last part of the land remaining in the Woomera Prohibited Area , known as "Section 400", was excised and returned to free access. The Maralinga Tjarutja Council is an incorporated body constituted by the traditional Yalata and Maralinga owners to administer the lands granted to them under the Maralinga Tjarutja Land Rights Act 1984 (SA). The head office
3575-492: The southern ocean blows through many caves, resulting in blowholes up to several hundred metres from the coast. The Murrawijinie Cave in South Australia is open to the public, but most of the Nullarbor Caves on the Western Australian side can only be visited and viewed with a permit from the Department of Parks and Wildlife . The Nullarbor is known for extensive meteorite deposits, which are extremely well preserved in
3640-413: The spelling variations are that some WDL dialects do not allow vowel-initial words—in these varieties the word begins with y ; some orthographies use underlining (e.g. ṉ) to indicate a retroflex consonant , while others use a digraph (e.g. rn ). Pitjantjatjara seems to be the best-known source for the word, but the underlining of the consonant is often ignored (or not understood) by English speakers, and
3705-548: The then Chief Scientist of the Department of Supply , W. A. S. Butement . The land was covered in spinifex grasses and good red soil ( parna wiru ) furnishing fine camping. Waterholes ( kapi ) have a prominent function in their mythology: they are inhabited by spirit children and thought of as birth places, and control of them demarcate the various tribal groups. According to Ronald Berndt , one particular water snake, Wanampi , tutelage spirit over native doctors, whose fertility function appears to parallel in some respects that of
3770-428: The town along the railway line. The Eyre Highway , which connects Norseman in Western Australia to Port Augusta, was carved across the continent in 1941. At first it was little more than a rough track but was gradually sealed over the next thirty years. The last unsealed section of the Eyre Highway was finally sealed in 1976. Unlike the railway, though, it crosses the plain at its southernmost edge rather than through
3835-431: The way. The line operated for about 50 years before being superseded, and remnants of it remain visible. The Trans-Australian Railway railway line crosses the Nullarbor Plain from Kalgoorlie to Port Augusta . Construction of the line began in 1917, when two teams set out from Kalgoorlie in Western Australia and Port Augusta in South Australia, meeting in the centre of the Plain at Ooldea , an uninhabited area noted for
3900-617: The word is "human being, person", "human body" in a number of eastern varieties of the Western Desert Languages (which are in the Pama–Nyungan group of languages), in particular Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara . It is now used as an Aboriginal endonym by a wide range of Western Desert Language (WDL) peoples to describe themselves. It is rarely or never applied to non-Aboriginal people when used in English, although
3965-489: The word now has a dual meaning in Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara . It has come to be used also as an exonym by non-Aboriginal Australians to refer to WDL-speaking groups or individuals. With regard to the term's distribution and spelling, the following table shows the main WDL dialects in which it is used (left column) along with the word spelled according to the orthography of that dialect (right column). The reasons for
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#17327722893204030-486: The world . Unconventionally, Garside obtained water and other support from "passing traffic" who would leave water cached ahead for him at agreed drop-offs, to achieve the feat. In 2010, columnist Dan Koeppel ran the 200 mi (320 km) heart of the Nullarbor with a friend the same way, to vindicate Garside. Garside commented in his diary, that "the key to running the Nullarbor turned out to be Australian hospitality", and Koeppel concurred that "[F]rom an armchair it
4095-702: The world in future. Nullarbor Plain The Nullarbor Plain ( / ˈ n ʌ l ər b ɔːr / NUL -ər-bor ; Latin : nulla feminine of nullus 'no' and arbor 'tree' ) is part of the area of flat, almost treeless, arid or semi-arid country of southern Australia, located on the Great Australian Bight coast with the Great Victoria Desert to its north. It is the world's largest single exposure of limestone bedrock , and occupies an area of about 200,000 square kilometres (77,000 sq mi). At its widest point, it stretches about 1,100 kilometres (684 mi) from east to west across
4160-449: Was achieved between August 1897 and December 1898. For two winter months in 1985, six young Jesus Christians walked 1600 kilometres (1000 miles) from Port Augusta to Norseman without taking any food, water, additional clothing or a support vehicle- although supplies were given to them by passing motorists. In 1998, runner Robert Garside ran across the Nullarbor without a formal support crew, as part of an authenticated run around
4225-522: Was dispersed widely over much of the area. Compensation in 1993 of A$ 13.5 million was determined after three elders flew to London and presented samples of the contaminated soil in London in October 1991. In 1962, the long-serving Premier of South Australia , Sir Thomas Playford , made a promise that their traditional lands would be restored to the people displaced at Yalata sometime in the future. Under
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