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54-528: The Collins English Dictionary defines mascara as "a cosmetic substance for darkening, lengthening, curling, coloring, and thickening the eyelashes , applied with a brush or rod." The Oxford English Dictionary ( OED ) adds that mascara is occasionally used on the eyebrows as well. The OED also references mascaro from works published in the late 19th century. In 1886, the Peck & Snyder Catalogue advertises, "Mascaro or Water Cosmetique... For darkening

108-534: A lead poisoning risk. Products containing kohl , kajal , surma , and similar materials are illegal color additives in the United States as defined by the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, section 201(t). Mercury , as thiomersal , is widely used in the manufacture of mascara. In 2008, Minnesota became the first state in the United States to ban intentionally added mercury in cosmetics, giving it

162-560: A cosmetic; conversely, it continued to be widely used in the Middle East for religious purposes. During the Victorian era, social opinion shifted radically towards the promotion of cosmetics, and women were known to spend a majority of their day occupied with beauty regimens. Great efforts were made to create the illusion of long, dark eyelashes. Attempting this, Victorian women made a type of mascara in their own homes. They would heat

216-469: A cosmetics salon in 1915, the forerunner of a chain throughout the country. Rubinstein opened up the boundless American market, and she skilfully used it, despite serious competitors. This was the beginning of her vicious rivalry with another notable woman of the cosmetics industry, Elizabeth Arden . Both Rubinstein and Arden, who died within 18 months of each other, were social climbers. They were both keenly aware of effective marketing and luxurious packaging,

270-435: A grooved rod was patented. This device picked up the same amount of mascara for each use. Then the grooved rod was altered to the brush similar to the ones used today. The change in applicator led mascara to be even easier to use, and its popularity increased. Mascara is now trending towards multi-functional usage, with many mascaras including lash-boosting serums, botanicals, and pro-vitamin-enriched formulas. Korean technology

324-455: A guest what the ambassador had said. "He said, 'Your ancestors burned Joan of Arc . ' " Rubinstein replied, "Well, someone had to do it." At another fête , Marcel Proust asked her what makeup a duchess might wear. She summarily dismissed him because "he smelt of mothballs". Rubinstein recollected later, "How was I to know he was going to be famous?" At the outbreak of World War I , she and Titus moved to New York City, where she opened

378-546: A mixture of ash or lampblack and elderberry juice on a plate and apply the heated mixture to their eyelashes. The product that people would recognize as mascara today did not develop until the 19th century. A chemist named Eugène Rimmel developed a cosmetic using the newly invented petroleum jelly . The name Rimmel became synonymous with the substance and still translates to "mascara" in the Portuguese, Spanish, Greek, Turkish, Romanian, and Persian languages today. Across

432-876: A packed lunch to work and was frugal in many matters, but bought top-fashion clothing and valuable fine art and furniture. She founded the Helena Rubinstein Pavilion of Contemporary Art at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art and in 1957 she established the Helena Rubinstein Travelling Art Scholarship in Australia. In 1953, she established the philanthropic Helena Rubinstein Foundation to provide funds to organizations specializing in health, medical research and rehabilitation. In 1959, Rubinstein represented

486-619: A portrait of herself in 1943, titled Princess Arthchild Gourielle-Helena Rubinstein . Other artists who painted her portrait were Graham Sutherland in 1957 for the Helena Rubinstein Foundation, now in the National Portrait Gallery of Australia , Marie Laurencin in 1934 (now in the National Portrait Gallery (United States) , Raoul Dufy (1930), Roberto Montenegro (1941). After Rubinstein's last visit to Australia, William Dobell painted

540-858: A renaissance in Asia, Europe, and South America. The US operation was closed down in 2003. Since 2011, L'Oréal has been repositioning the brand as an ultra-premium skin care franchise. As of 2023, high-end Helena Rubinstein products remain unavailable in the US but are sold in international markets. The L'Oréal-UNESCO Awards for Women in Science are also known as the Helena Rubinstein Women in Science Awards. The Helena Rubinstein Foundation, which had been established in 1953, operated through 2011, ultimately distributing nearly $ 130 million over

594-542: A salon in 1912. Her husband helped with writing the publicity and set up a small publishing house, published Lady Chatterley's Lover and hired Samuel Putnam to translate famous model Alice Prin 's (Kiki de Montparnasse) memoirs, Kiki's Memoirs . Rubinstein threw lavish dinner parties and became known for apocryphal quips, such as when an intoxicated French ambassador expressed vitriol toward Edith Sitwell and her brother Sacheverell : Vos ancêtres ont brûlé Jeanne d'Arc! Rubinstein, who knew little French, asked

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648-527: A series of eight portraits in 1957. After her divorce, in 1938 Helena readily married Prince Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia (sometimes spelled Courielli-Tchkonia; born in Georgia , February 18, 1895, died in New York City, November 21, 1955), whose somewhat clouded matrilinear claim to Georgian nobility stemmed from him having been born a member of the untitled noble Tchkonia family of Guria , enticing

702-450: A tougher standard than the federal government. It is more common to develop a stye , or commoner still, swollen eyelids. Styes and swollen eyelids are better classified as allergic reactions. The allergic reactions can be stimulated by any of the components of mascara but is usually attributed to methylparaben , aluminum powder, ceteareth -20, butylparaben , or benzyl alcohol . If not cleaned properly, mascara can deposit itself under

756-553: Is a printed and online dictionary of English. It is published by HarperCollins in Glasgow . It was first published in 1979. The dictionary uses language research based on the Collins Corpus, which is continually updated and has over 20 billion words. The 1979 edition of the dictionary, with Patrick Hanks as editor and Laurence Urdang as editorial director, was the first British English dictionary to be typeset from

810-752: Is at the forefront of the development, and a number of brands use tubing formulas to coat the lash. All formulations contain pigments , oils, and waxes. The pigmentation for black mascara is similar to that used by the Egyptians and Victorian women. Black and brown mascaras typically are colored by use of iron oxides. Some mascaras contain ultramarine blue . Mascara is composed of a base mixture of pigments, waxes, and oils with varying supporting components. Mascara pigments most commonly include iron oxides and titanium dioxide which provide mascara with its desired color. Titanium dioxide (TiO 2 ) accounts for over 65% of inorganic pigments sales volume. TiO 2 gives

864-417: Is often used on a daily basis around the world. In 2016 alone, U.S. consumers spent US$ 335.6 million on the top 10 leading mascara brands. In one method of production, referred to as anhydrous , all waxes, oils, and pigments are mixed, heated, and agitated simultaneously. The alternative method, termed emulsion , starts by combining water and thickeners. Separately, waxes and emulsifiers are combined. Pigment

918-633: Is then added individually to both mixtures. Finally all is combined in a homogenizer , which acts as a high-speed agitator in order to thoroughly mix the oils, water, waxes, and emulsifiers—ingredients that naturally repulse each other. Mascara has a shelf life of two to four months. Smudged mascara has also become a symbolic way to show depression in photographs, such as the famous "Bleeding Mascara" or "crying mascara" trend on social media. These references can carry deep emotional resonance and significance. Eye cosmetics containing kohl , kajal , al-kahal , surma , tiro , tozali , or kwalli often pose

972-462: The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) the right to regulate cosmetics in 1938. Years later in 1957, Rubinstein created a formula that evolved mascara from a hard cake into a lotion-based cream. She packaged the new mascara in a tube to be sold with a brush. For use, the cream was squeezed onto the brush and applied to lashes. Although still messy, it was a step towards the modern mascara product. Soon,

1026-928: The conjunctiva in form of black lumps. Eyelashes naturally have microbial organisms; applying mascara may expose microbes to incubate in the mascara. A 2021 study tested 231 makeup and personal care products and found organic fluorine, an indicator of PFAS , in more than half of the samples. High levels of fluorine were most commonly identified in waterproof mascara (82% of brands tested), foundations (63%), and liquid lipstick (62%). As many as 13 types of individual PFAS compounds were found in each product. Since PFAS compounds are highly mobile, they are readily absorbed through human skin and through tear ducts , and such products on lips are often unwittingly ingested. Manufacturers often fail to label their products as containing PFAS, which makes it difficult for cosmetics consumers to avoid products containing PFAS. Collins English Dictionary The Collins English Dictionary

1080-473: The photograph and motion picture launched mascara's popularity and usage further forward in America. Motion pictures especially advertised a new standard of beauty and sex appeal . Famous actresses of the classic cinema era, such as Theda Bara , Pola Negri , Clara Bow , Greta Garbo , Marlene Dietrich , Bette Davis , and Jean Harlow , depended heavily upon mascara for their glamorized appearances, which

1134-617: The 2016 musical War Paint dramatizes her rivalry with competitor Elizabeth Arden . After a run Chicago's Goodman Theatre , the show opened on Broadway at the Nederlander Theatre on April 6, 2017, starring Patti LuPone as Rubinstein and Christine Ebersole as Arden. The comedy Lip Service by the Australian dramatist John Misto chronicles the life and career of Rubinstein and her rivalry with Elizabeth Arden and Revlon . Lip Service premiered April 26, 2017, at

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1188-537: The American beauty industry, watched and kept abreast of its development. After the First World War , American consumers became eager for new products. Sensing an opportunity, both Rubinstein and Arden launched their own brands of cosmetics that included mascara. Through the efforts of these two rivals and public temperament, mascara finally gained respectability and favor in American society. The invention of

1242-491: The Atlantic Ocean and at roughly the same time, in 1915, Thomas Lyle Williams created a remarkably similar substance for his sister Mabel. In 1917 he started a mail-order business from the product that grew to become the company Maybelline . The mascara developed by these two men consisted of petroleum jelly and coal in a set ratio. It was undeniably messy, and a better alternative was soon developed. A dampened brush

1296-468: The Bank of English established by John McHardy Sinclair at COBUILD to provide typical citations rather than examples composed by the lexicographer . The unabridged Collins English Dictionary was published on the web on 31 December 2011 on CollinsDictionary.com, along with the unabridged dictionaries of French, German, Spanish and Italian. The site also includes example sentences showing word usage from

1350-928: The Collins Bank of English Corpus, word frequencies and trends from the Google Ngrams project, and word images from Flickr . In August 2012, CollinsDictionary.com introduced crowd-sourcing for neologisms , whilst still maintaining overall editorial control to remain distinct from Wiktionary and Urban Dictionary . This followed an earlier launch of a discussion forum for neologisms in 2004. In May 2015, CollinsDictionary.com added 6,500 new Scrabble words to their Collins Official Scrabble Wordlist. The words are based on terms related to and influenced by slang, social media, food, technology, and more. Helena Rubinstein Helena Rubinstein (born Chaja Rubinstein ; December 25, 1872 – April 1, 1965)

1404-563: The English language. Her stylish clothes and milky complexion did not pass unnoticed among the town's ladies, however, and she soon found enthusiastic buyers for the jars of beauty cream in her luggage. She spotted a market where she began to make her own. A key ingredient of the cream, lanolin , was readily at hand. Coleraine , in the Western Victoria region , where her uncle was a shopkeeper, might have been an "awful place" but

1458-477: The Glory (2009) by Ann Carol Grossman and Arnie Reisman, details the rivalry between Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden . In her book Ugly Beauty , Ruth Brandon described her methodology: She knew how to advertise—using 'fear copy with a bit of blah-blah'— and introduced the concept of 'problem' skin types. She also pioneered the use of pseudo-science in marketing, donning a lab coat in many advertisements, despite

1512-640: The Spanish word máscara meaning 'mask' or 'stain', and the Italian word maschera meaning 'mask' is a possible origin. A related Catalan word describes soot or a black smear, and the Portuguese word máscara means 'mask' and mascarra means dark stain or smut. There is even strong support for a possible source from the Arabic word maskharah or 'buffoon'. The Hebrew word משקרות (in

1566-754: The US cosmetics industry at the American National Exhibition in Moscow. Called "Madame" by her employees, she eschewed idle chatter, continued to be active in the corporation throughout her life, even from her sick bed, and staffed the company with her relatives. Rubinstein died April 1, 1965, of natural causes and was buried in Mount Olivet Cemetery in Queens . Some of her estate, including African and fine art, Lucite furniture, and Victorian furniture upholstered in purple,

1620-621: The Winter Garden tearooms in Melbourne . There, she found an admirer willing to stump up the funds to launch her Crème Valaze, supposedly including herbs imported "from the Carpathian Mountains ". It cost ten pence and sold for six shillings (72 pence). Known to her customers only as Helena, Rubinstein could soon afford to open a salon in fashionable Collins Street , selling glamour as a science to customers whose skin

1674-457: The ambitious young man to appropriate the genuine title of his grandmother, born Princess Gourielli . Gourielli-Tchkonia was 23 years younger than Rubinstein. Eager for a regal title, Rubinstein pursued the handsome man avidly and named a male cosmetics line after her youthful prized catch. Some have claimed that the marriage was a marketing ploy, including Rubinstein's being able to pass herself off as Helena Princess Gourielli. Rubinstein took

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1728-435: The attraction of beauticians in neat uniforms, the value of celebrity endorsements, the perceived value of overpricing and the promotion of the pseudoscience of skincare. The rivalry with Arden lasted all her life. Rubinstein said of her rival, "With her packaging and my product, we could have ruled the world." From 1917, Rubinstein took on the manufacturing and wholesale distribution of her products. The "Day of Beauty" in

1782-499: The average woman sought to mimic. In 1933, a woman known on court records as Mrs. Brown consented to have her eyelashes permanently dyed. Unfortunately, the product, Lash Lure, used para -phenylenediamine , a chemical extremely toxic to the body, as the dyeing agent. At the time, cosmetics were unregulated by the Federal Drug Administration, and the dangers of paraphenylenediamine were unknown. Within hours of

1836-498: The course of six decades, primarily to education, arts, and community-based organizations in New York City. The foundation was a longtime supporter of children's programming for New York City's PBS affiliate WNET . The Manhattan Jewish Museum hosted the exhibition "Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power", the first museum show devoted to Rubinstein, from October 31, 2014, until March 22, 2015. A one-off Rubinstein Mural Prize

1890-539: The eyebrow and moustaches without greasing them and making them prominent." In 1890, the Century Dictionary defined mascara as "a kind of paint used for the eyebrows and eyelashes by actors." And in 1894, N. Lynn advises in Lynn's Practical Hints for Making-up , "to darken eyelashes, paint with mascara, or black paint, with a small brush." The source of the word mascara is unclear. It was possibly derived from

1944-571: The eyes, believed to ward off evil spirits and protect the soul, by both men and women. Often composed of galena ; malachite ; and charcoal or soot, crocodile stool; honey; and water was added to keep the kohl from running. Through Egypt's influence, kohl usage persisted in the subsequent Babylonian, Greek and Roman empires. Following the fall of the Roman Empire, kohl fell into disuse on the European continent, where it had been considered solely

1998-439: The fact that her only training had been a two-month tour of European skin-care facilities. She knew how to manipulate consumers' status anxiety, as well: If a product faltered initially, she would hike the price to raise the perceived value. In 1973, the company Helena Rubinstein, Inc. was sold to Colgate-Palmolive . By the 1980's the brand had faded from the US market. In 1984 it was acquired by L'Oréal . The L'Oreal takeover

2052-816: The fields of education, art, and health. Rubinstein rapidly expanded her operation. In 1908, her sister Ceska assumed the Melbourne shop's operation, and with $ 100,000, Rubinstein moved to London and began what was to become an international enterprise. (Women at this time could not obtain bank loans, so the money was her own.) In 1908, she married the Polish-born American journalist Edward William Titus in London. They had two sons, Roy Valentine Titus (London, December 12, 1909 – New York, June 18, 1989) and Horace Titus (London, April 23, 1912 – New York, May 18, 1958). They eventually moved to Paris where she opened

2106-428: The mascara account for most variations of ingredients. Water-resistant mascaras require hydrophobic ingredients, like dodecane . Non water-resistant mascaras have base ingredients that are water-soluble. Mascaras designed to lengthen or curl the eyelashes often contain nylon or rayon microfibers. Additionally, ceresin , gum tragacanth , and methyl cellulose are regular ingredients and serve as stiffeners. Mascara

2160-459: The old city of Mascara in Algeria . The nomadic tribes used it as a beauty product but also to protect themselves from various trachomas and eye diseases . Aesthetic adornment is a cultural universal and mascara can be documented in ancient Egypt . Records from around 4000 BC refer to a substance called kohl that was used to darken eyelashes, eyelids, and eyebrows. Kohl was used to mask

2214-411: The output from a computer database in a specified format. This meant that every aspect of an entry was handled by a different editor using different forms or templates. Once all the entries for an entry had been assembled, they were passed on to be keyed into the slowly assembled dictionary database which was completed for the typesetting of the first edition. In a later edition, they increasingly used

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2268-530: The phrase mesaqqeroth `eynayim) relating to women's eyes is found in Isaiah 3:16. It may mean flirting or ogling with the eyes, or painting them with red pigment. Latin treatises sometimes used the word mascara when referring to witches. The name Mascara was likely given in reference to the city which bears the same name, since in the mid-19th century the French discovered antimony powder during their conquest in

2322-464: The pigment a white color while different iron oxides provide a variety of colors such as red, yellow, brown, and black. The particle size of opaque pigments ranges from 0.2 to 0.3 μm. Among the many oils used, linseed oil, castor oil , eucalyptus oil, lanolin , and oil of turpentine are found frequently. Sesame oil is also commonly used. Waxes usually found in mascara are paraffin wax , carnauba wax , and beeswax . The desired effects of

2376-660: The treatment, Mrs. Brown began experiencing severe symptoms of stinging and burning eyes. By the next morning, Mrs. Brown's eyes had developed ulcers which oozed and had swollen shut. Use of Lash Lure resulted in blindness in Mrs. Brown and fifteen other women and also caused the death of another through a bacterial infection . It was only after the Lash Lure incident and several others like it, documented in Ruth deForest Lamb 's book entitled American Chamber of Horrors , that Congress granted

2430-403: The value of the company to $ 100 million, establishing salons and outlets in almost a dozen US cities. This saga, and Rubinstein's early business career, has been the subject of a recent Harvard Business School case. Her subsequent spa at 715 Fifth Avenue included a restaurant, a gymnasium and rugs by painter Joan Miró . She commissioned artist Salvador Dalí to design a powder compact as well

2484-465: The various salons became a great success. The purported portrait of Rubinstein in her advertising was of a middle-age mannequin with a Gentile appearance. In 1928, she sold the American business to Lehman Brothers for $ 7.3 million, ($ 127 million in 2022). After the onset of the Great Depression , she bought back the nearly worthless stock for less than $ 1 million and eventually increased

2538-399: Was "diagnosed" and a suitable treatment "prescribed". Sydney was next, and within five years, Australian operations were profitable enough to finance a Salon de Beauté Valaze in London. As such, Rubinstein formed one of the world's first cosmetic companies. Her business enterprise proved immensely successful and later in life, she used her enormous wealth to support charitable institutions in

2592-480: Was a Polish and American businesswoman, art collector, and philanthropist. A cosmetics entrepreneur, she was the founder and eponym of Helena Rubinstein Incorporated cosmetics company, which made her one of the world's richest women. Rubinstein was the eldest of eight daughters born to Polish Jews , "Augusta" Gitte (Gitel) Shaindel Rubinstein née Silberfeld and Naftoli Hertz "Horace" Rubinstein. Her father

2646-507: Was a shopkeeper in Kraków , Lesser Poland , which was then occupied by Austria-Hungary following the partitions of Poland in the late 18th century. The existentialist philosopher Martin Buber was her cousin. She was also the cousin of Ruth Rappaport 's mother. After refusing an arranged marriage, Rubinstein emigrated from Poland to Australia in 1896, with no money and little command of

2700-524: Was auctioned in 1966 at the Parke-Bernet Galleries in New York City. One of Rubinstein's numerous sayings was: "There are no ugly women, only lazy ones." A scholarly study of her exclusive beauty salons and how they blurred and influenced the conceptual boundaries at the time among fashion, art galleries, the domestic interior and versions of modernism is explored by Marie J. Clifford. A feature-length documentary film , The Powder &

2754-746: Was awarded in 1958 to Erica McGilchrist for her work in the Women's College, University of Melbourne , and a Helena Rubinstein Scholarship was awarded to Frank Hodgkinson in 1958 and Charles Blackman 1960. The Helena Rubinstein Portrait Prize was an annual prize of £300 for portraiture by an Australian artist, and was mostly staged at the Claude Hotchin Gallery in Western Australia. Based on Woodhead's book,

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2808-498: Was home to some 75 million sheep that secreted abundant quantities of lanolin. These sheep were the wealth of the nation and the Western District's vast mobs of merinos produced the finest wool in the land. To disguise the lanolin's pungent odour, Rubinstein experimented with lavender , pine bark, and water lilies . Rubinstein had a falling out with her uncle, but after a stint as a bush governess began waitressing at

2862-522: Was rubbed against a cake containing soap and black dye in equal proportions and applied to the lashes. Still it was extremely messy. No significant improvement occurred until 1957 with an innovation by Helena Rubinstein . The events leading to Rubinstein's improvement began in Paris in the early 20th century. There, at the fashion capital of the world, mascara was quickly gaining popularity and common usage. Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein, two giants in

2916-434: Was to cause a good deal of scandal as company founder, Eugène Schueller , had been an enthusiastic collaborator during the war, and in its aftermath, L'Oreal became notorious for employing ex-Nazis on the run. Jacques Corrèze , who engineered the takeover, was one of these: he had been active in expropriating Jewish property in Paris. The brand was re-launched in the US market in 1999 but it was unprofitable despite its having

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