NOLS is a non-profit outdoor education school based in the United States dedicated to teaching environmental ethics , technical outdoor skills, wilderness medicine, risk management and judgment, and leadership on extended wilderness expeditions and in traditional classrooms. It was previously known as the National Outdoor Leadership School , but in 2015, this label was retired in favor of the independent "NOLS". The NOLS mission is to be the leading source and teacher of wilderness skills and leadership that serve people and the environment . NOLS runs courses on six continents , with courses in a variety of wilderness environments and for almost any age group. The NOLS vision is to, "elevate the leader in everyone".
106-416: Courses feature both leadership and technical outdoor skills, which include backpacking , canoeing , whitewater kayaking , packrafting , caving , rock climbing , fly fishing , horse-packing , sea kayaking , mountaineering , rafting , sailing , skiing , snowboarding , and wilderness medicine . NOLS has trained more than 280,000 students . Academic credit is available for all courses, through either
212-411: A snow cave . It has thermal properties similar to an igloo and is effective both at providing protection from wind and low temperatures. A properly made snow cave can be 0 °C (32 °F) or warmer inside, even when outside temperatures are −40 °C (−40 °F). It is constructed by excavating snow so that its entrance tunnel is below the main space in order to retain warm air. Construction
318-574: A 30-pound (14 kg) pack, loads his knees with 555 pounds (252 kg) of stress per step. Backpacking camps are usually more spartan than campsites where gear is transported by car or boat. In areas with heavy backpacker traffic, a hike-in campsite might have a fire ring (where permissible), an outhouse , a wooden bulletin board with a map and information about the trail and area. Many hike-in camps are no more than level patches of ground free of underbrush. In remote wilderness areas hikers must choose their own site. Established camps are rare and
424-619: A Fairbanks tavern. By March 1910, the men had established a base camp near one of the sites where the Brooks party had been and pressed on from the north via the Muldrow glacier . Unlike some previous expeditions, they discovered a pass, since named McGonagall Pass, which allowed them to bypass the Wickersham Wall and access the higher reaches of the mountain. At roughly 11,000 feet (3,353 m), Tom Lloyd, old and less physically fit than
530-667: A NOLS course as they traveled through the Wind River Range. The school's focus became more ecological ; conservation and preservation began to rank with leadership training in terms of emphasis. As a result of the airing, the school's enrollment grew from 250 students in 1969 to over 750 in 1970. The school also gained publicity in December 1969 from the Life magazine article, “Last Mountain Man? Not If He Can Help It," which featured
636-487: A calm, concise, effective manner. Leadership should keep the positive attitude and work through the issues in a responsible manner. Self-awareness is defined as the skill to realize, interpret, and respond to one's own personal needs, as well as recognizing strengths and weaknesses, and compensating for them accordingly. This skill is imperative in the backcountry because it empowers the individual to take responsibility for his or her health. Taking care of their safety and health
742-446: A diverse community, both among staff and students, by reaching out and supporting underrepresented groups. As of 2021, NOLS offers expeditions for People of Color , those who identify as LGBTQ+ , and women. Additionally, NOLS offers scholarship opportunities and fellowship programs in order to allow individuals who might not normally participate in outdoor adventure programing to do so. The Leave No Trace National Program began in
848-415: A journey that can last months. It is, however, similar to bikepacking , bicycle touring , canoe and kayak camping, and trail riding , with saddlebags . Backpacking is an outdoor recreation where gear is carried in a backpack . This can include food, water, bedding, shelter, clothing, stove, and cooking kit. Given that backpackers must carry their gear, the total weight of their bag and its contents
954-556: A meteorological station on a ridge near the summit of Denali at an elevation of 18,733 feet (5,710 m) in 1990. In 1998, this weather station was donated to the International Arctic Research Center at the University of Alaska Fairbanks . In June 2002, a weather station was placed at the 19,000-foot (5,800 m) level. This weather station was designed to transmit data in real-time for use by
1060-547: A nationwide network of huts. Hill walking is equivalent in Britain (but this can also refer to a day walk), though backpackers make use of a variety of accommodation, in addition to camping. Backpackers use simple huts in South Africa. Trekking and bushwalking are other words used to describe such multi-day trips. Backpacking as a method of travel is a different activity, which mainly uses public transport during
1166-403: A party directed by Hudson Stuck and Harry Karstens , along with Walter Harper and Robert Tatum . Karstens relocated to Alaska in the gold rush of 1897, and in subsequent years became involved in a variety of endeavors beyond mining, including helping establish dog mushing routes to deliver mail across vast swathes of territory and supporting expeditions led by naturalist Charles Sheldon near
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#17327725229041272-455: A positive attitude, respect for others, an awareness of the needs of other group members, and a willingness to place group needs above individual ones. NOLS teaches that it is only through good expedition behavior that groups can successfully collaborate to achieve goals that would be impossible for an individual to achieve on his or her own. All NOLS courses rely on expedition behavior as the underlying basis for successful cooperation. Competence
1378-587: A request in 1975 from the Alaska state legislature to the United States Board on Geographic Names to do the same at the federal level was blocked by Ohio congressman Ralph Regula , whose district included McKinley's home town of Canton . On August 30, 2015, just ahead of a presidential visit to Alaska, the Barack Obama administration announced the name Denali would be restored in line with
1484-418: A safe manner, and a weighted carry is as beneficial for the cardiovascular system as a light run, and for exercise, a weighted carry helps avoid injuries. A differential exists between a man running in comparison to a man walking while carrying a backpack. A 175-pound (79 kg) man running, without a backpack, loads his knees with 1,400 pounds (640 kg) of stress per stride. The same person, carrying
1590-598: A shoestring budget" without any other experienced climbers. The party navigated up the Cook inlet and followed the path of the 1902 Brooks party towards Denali. Cook approached the mountain via the Peters Glacier, as Wickersham had done; however, he was able to overcome the ice fall that had caused the previous group to turn up the spur towards the Wickersham Wall. Despite avoiding this obstacle, on August 31, having reached an elevation of about 10,900 feet (3,322 m) on
1696-527: A temperature of −74.4 °F (−59.1 °C) combined with a wind speed of 18.4 miles per hour (29.6 km/h) to produce a North American record windchill of −118.1 °F (−83.4 °C). Even in July, this weather station has recorded temperatures as low as −22.9 °F (−30.5 °C) and windchills as low as −59.2 °F (−50.7 °C). According to the National Park Service , in 1932
1802-492: A year later. The mountain is climbed regularly nowadays. In 2003, around 58% of climbers reached the top. But by that time, the mountain had claimed the lives of nearly 100 mountaineers. The vast majority of climbers use the West Buttress Route, pioneered in 1951 by Bradford Washburn , after an extensive aerial photographic analysis of the mountain. Climbers typically take two to four weeks to ascend Denali. It
1908-405: Is Ultra High Temperature (UHT) processed food, which has its moisture retained and merely needs heating with a special, water-activated chemical reaction . Specialized cookbooks are available on trailside food and the challenges inherent in making it. Some focus on planning meals and preparing ingredients for short trips; others on the challenges of organizing and preparing meals revolving around
2014-449: Is a primary concern of backpackers. Backpacking trips range from one night to weeks or months, sometimes aided by planned resupply points, drops, or caches. Carrying loads appears to have differentiated humans from other animals. A weighted carry from backpacking taxes muscles. A weighted load stresses the shoulders, delts, back, abs, obliques, hips, quads, hamstrings and the knees. Humans can carry weight under 50 pounds (23 kg) in
2120-463: Is a recreational activity that combines ultralight backpacking with running , and, on steep slopes, hiking . It is a multi-day adventure that usually takes places along long distance trails . A sleeping bag is carried and other essential backpacking items, and often a tent or similar shelter, if places to stay are not available. Denali Denali ( / d ə ˈ n ɑː l i / ; also known as Mount McKinley , its former official name)
2226-553: Is caused by stresses created by the low-angle subduction of the Yakutat microplate underneath Alaska. The Denali Fault Bend is characterized as a gentle restraining bend. The Denali Fault Bend represents a curvature in the Denali Fault that is approximately 75 km long. This curvature creates what is known as a "space problem." As the right-lateral movement along the Denali Fault continues, high compressional forces created at
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#17327725229042332-489: Is energy intensive. It is essential to bring enough food to maintain both energy and health. The weight of food is an important issue to consider. Consequently, items with high food energy , long shelf life , and low mass and volume deliver the most utility. Taste and satisfaction are issues that are of varying importance to individual hikers, as they consider whether it is worth the effort (and trade-off against other gear) to carry fresh, heavy, or luxury food items. The shorter
2438-464: Is exceptionally heavy. It is impossible to carry more than a few days' supply. Therefore, hikers often drink natural water supplies, sometimes after filtering or purifying. Some hikers will treat water before drinking to protect against waterborne diseases carried by bacteria and protozoa . The chief treatment methods include: Water may be stored in bottles or collapsible plastic bladders. Hydration bladders are increasingly popular. Backpacking
2544-502: Is important to being able to function properly and making strong decisions. Vision and action refers to having the initiative to lead a group and seeing the possibilities for moving the group toward a goal. Skills taught on NOLS courses include backpacking, canoeing, caving, climbing , fly-fishing, horsepacking, mountaineering , rafting, river kayaking, sailing, sea kayaking, skiing, snowboarding, etc. Students gain insight into how to choose equipment, clothing, and how to feed themselves in
2650-668: Is one of the Seven Summits ; summiting all of them is a challenge for mountaineers. On August 4, 2018, five people died in the K2 Aviation de Havilland Beaver (DHC-2) crash near Denali. From 1947 to 2018 in the United States "2,799 people were reported to be involved in mountaineering accidents" and 11% of these accidents occurred on Denali. Of these 2,799 accidents, 43% resulted in death and 8% of these deaths occurred on Denali. The Japanese Alpine Club installed
2756-418: Is simplified by building on a steep slope and digging slightly upwards and horizontally into the snow. The roof is domed to prevent dripping on the occupants. Adequate snow depth, free of rocks and ice, is needed — generally 4 to 5 ft (1.2 to 1.5 m) is sufficient. A quinzhee is similar, but constructed by tunneling into mounded snow rather than by digging into a natural snow formation. Fastpacking
2862-503: Is still based today. NOLS has facilities in Alaska, Washington , Arizona, Utah, New York , Idaho, Chile, Mexico, Canada, New Zealand, the Yukon Territory, Tanzania, Scandinavia, and India . It also runs wilderness medicine courses in a variety of other locations around the world. NOLS grew during the 1970s, due to the publicity gained by an appearance on NBC 's Alcoa Hour . The episode, titled "30 Days to Survival," followed
2968-410: Is taught through experience leading daily travel and through targeted classes. Classes include a framework for classifying objective and subjective risks encountered in the wilderness with an emphasis on making thoughtful decisions. Emergency procedures are put into place and taught to all students in case a student or staff member is injured or lost. Additionally NOLS, along with Outward Bound USA and
3074-564: Is the third most prominent and third-most isolated peak on Earth, after Mount Everest and Aconcagua . Located in the Alaska Range in the interior of the U.S. state of Alaska , Denali is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve . The Koyukon people who inhabit the area around the mountain have referred to the peak as "Denali" for centuries. In 1896, a gold prospector named it "Mount McKinley" in support of then-presidential candidate William McKinley , who later became
3180-486: Is the Russian translation of Denali . It was briefly called Densmore's Mountain in the late 1880s and early 1890s after Frank Densmore, a gold prospector who was the first non-native Alaskan to reach the base of the mountain. In 1896, a gold prospector named it McKinley as political support for then-presidential candidate William McKinley , who became president the following year. The United States formally recognized
3286-621: Is the hallmark of NOLS' curriculum. NOLS uses four roles and seven skills as a framework to define ideal leadership characteristics. The curriculum's goal is to push students to use leadership skills and teamwork to rise up to challenges faced while on remote, backcountry excursions. The four roles of leadership are: designated leadership, active followership , peer leadership, and self leadership. The seven skills of leadership are: expedition behavior, vision and action, communication, judgement and decision-making, self-awareness, tolerance for adversity, and competence. Expedition behavior refers to having
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3392-497: Is the highest mountain peak in North America , with a summit elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m) above sea level . It is the tallest mountain in the world from base-to-peak on land, measuring 18,000 ft (5,500 m), with a topographic prominence of 20,194 feet (6,155 m) and a topographic isolation (the distance to the nearest peak of equal or greater height) of 4,621.1 miles (7,436.9 km), Denali
3498-488: Is the mastering of wilderness skills and potential for personal growth and to gain more knowledge. Communication involves effectively communicating interpersonally and with the group on both verbal and nonverbal levels. Judgment and decision-making involve making decisions that benefit the group, given unique circumstances, both externally and internally to the group. Tolerance for adversity and uncertainty refers to being flexible to various challenges, and being able to respond in
3604-464: Is widely available, but can be expensive. Materials can include carbon fiber, lightweight alloys, specialty plastics, and impregnated fabrics. Backpacking has been a historically white male-dominated outdoor recreational activity. With official backpacks for the sport being patented since 1878, it is indicative of the demographics that the first backpack designed for and marketed towards women wasn't invented until 1979, over 100 years later. Backpacking
3710-613: The New York Sun that appeared on January 24, 1897. His report drew attention with the sentence "We have no doubt that this peak is the highest in North America, and estimate that it is over 20,000 feet (6,100 m) high." Until then, Mount Logan in Canada's Yukon Territory was believed to be the continent's highest point. Though later praised for his estimate, Dickey admitted that other prospector parties had also guessed
3816-633: The "fake peak" photograph of Barrill standing on the promontory. It showed a wider view of surrounding features, appearing to definitively discount Cook's claim. Given the skepticism concerning Cook's story, interest in claiming the first ascent remained. Miners and other Alaskans living in Kantishna and Fairbanks wanted the honors to go to local men. In 1909, four Alaska residents – Tom Lloyd, Peter Anderson, Billy Taylor, and Charles McGonagall – set out from Fairbanks , Alaska during late December with supplies and dogs that were in part paid for by bettors in
3922-575: The Alaskan Athabascan names for Denali. The Koyukon Athabaskans , living in the Yukon , Tanana and Kuskokwim basins, were the first Native Americans with access to the flanks of the mountain. A British naval captain and explorer, George Vancouver , is the first European on record to have sighted Denali, when he noted "distant stupendous mountains" while surveying the Knik Arm of
4028-748: The Appalachian Trail . Another example is the High Sierra Camps in the Yosemite National Park . Long-distance backpacking trails with huts also exist in South Africa, including the 100 km plus Amatola Trail , in the Eastern Cape Province. Backpacking is also popular in the Himalayas (often called trekking there), where porters and pack animals are often used. Backpacking gear depends on
4134-584: The Cook Inlet on May 6, 1794. The Russian explorer Lavrenty Zagoskin explored the Tanana and Kuskokwim rivers in 1843 and 1844, and was likely the first European to sight the mountain from the other side. William Dickey, a New Hampshire -born resident of Seattle , Washington who had been digging for gold in the sands of the Susitna River , wrote, after his returning from Alaska, an account in
4240-461: The Kantishna river by steamer , before offloading and following Chitsia Creek with a poling boat, mules and backpacks, a route suggested to them by Tanana Athabaskan people they met along the way. The party received further navigational assistance at Anotoktilon, an Athabaskan hunting camp, where residents gave the group detailed directions to reach the glaciers at the foot of Denali. On reaching
4346-666: The Student Conservation Association , sponsors the Wilderness Risk Management Conference . Encountering bears is a concern in the Wind River Range. There are other concerns as well, including insects, wildfires , adverse snow conditions and nighttime cold temperatures . Importantly, there have been notable incidents, including accidental deaths , due to falls from steep cliffs (a misstep could be fatal in this class 4/5 terrain ) and due to falling rocks , over
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4452-607: The Tibetan Plateau at a much higher base elevation. Base elevations for Everest range from 13,800 ft (4,200 m) on the south side to 17,100 ft (5,200 m) on the Tibetan Plateau, for a base-to-peak height in the range of 12,000 to 15,300 ft (3,700 to 4,700 m). Denali's base-to-peak height is little more than half the 33,500 ft (10,200 m) of the volcano Mauna Kea , which lies mostly under water. Denali has two significant summits:
4558-554: The U.S. Geological Survey measured the mountain at 20,310 feet (6,190 m) high, 10 ft lower than the 20,320 feet (6,194 m) measured in 1952 using photogrammetry . Denali is a granitic pluton , mostly pink quartz monzonite , lifted by tectonic pressure from the subduction of the Pacific Plate beneath the North American Plate ; at the same time, the sedimentary material above and around
4664-486: The United States Weather Bureau and found to be accurate. The lowest temperature that it had recorded was found to be approximately −100 °F (−73 °C). Another thermometer was placed at the 15,000-foot (4,600 m) level by the U.S. Army Natick Laboratory , and was there from 1950 to 1969. The lowest temperature recorded during that period was also −100 °F (−73 °C). Besides
4770-698: The University of Utah , Western State Colorado University , or Central Wyoming College . NOLS also has direct credit agreements with many colleges and universities . NOLS is headquartered in Lander, Wyoming . NOLS was founded in 1965 by Paul Petzoldt , a mountaineer and a member of the Army 's 10th Mountain Division , with the backing of three affluent Lander residents (Ed Breece, legislator and Petzoldt's brother-in-law; Jack Nicholas, legislator; and William Erickson, physician). Breece, Nicholas, and Ericson formed
4876-507: The Wind River Range . In the beginning, NOLS struggled with finances to provide necessities for outdoor trips, so Petzoldt and his early team developed the “uniform” made of Salvation Army donations. The school began to grow in the early years and in 1966, women were allowed to enroll. In 1967, the adventure courses began for young boys aged 13–15. In 1971, the administrative offices were moved to downtown Lander, Wyoming, where NOLS
4982-711: The ethos is to " leave no trace " when gone. In some regions, varying forms of accommodation exist, from simple log lean-to's to staffed facilities offering escalating degrees of service. Beds, meals, and even drinks may be had at Alpine huts scattered among well-traveled European mountains. Backpackers there can walk from hut-to-hut without leaving the mountains, while in places like the Lake District or Yorkshire Dales in England hill-walkers descend to stay in youth hostels , farmhouses or guest houses . Reservations can usually be made in advance and are recommended in
5088-579: The first ascent , but this ascent is unverified and its legitimacy questioned. The first verifiable ascent to Denali's summit was achieved on June 7, 1913, by climbers Hudson Stuck , Harry Karstens , Walter Harper , and Robert Tatum , who went by the South Summit. In 1951, Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route, considered to be the safest and easiest route, and therefore the most popular currently in use. On September 2, 2015,
5194-752: The 1960s as the USDA Forest Service looked for ways to help people take care of the public lands they were visiting in increasing numbers. In the early 1990s NOLS partnered with the Forest Service on the program. 1994 marks the founding of the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics , a non-profit organization. The principles of Leave No Trace concern minimizing the social and environmental impacts that have led to ecological degradation. The program serves as an education tool to provide guidance for how to behave while camping in
5300-577: The 25th president; McKinley's name was the official name recognized by the federal government of the United States from 1917 until 2015. In August 2015, 40 years after Alaska had done so, the United States Department of the Interior announced the change of the official name of the mountain to Denali. In 1903, James Wickersham recorded the first attempt at climbing Denali, which was unsuccessful. In 1906, Frederick Cook claimed
5406-888: The Alaska Geographic Board's designation. U.S. Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell issued the order changing the name to Denali on August 28, 2015, effective immediately. Jewell said the change had been "a long time coming". The renaming of the mountain received praise from Alaska's senior U.S. senator, Lisa Murkowski (R-AK), who had previously introduced legislation to accomplish the name change, but it drew criticism from several politicians from President McKinley's home state of Ohio, such as Governor John Kasich , U.S. Senator Rob Portman , U.S. House Speaker John Boehner , and Representative Bob Gibbs , who described Obama's action as "constitutional overreach" because he said an act of Congress
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#17327725229045512-578: The Brooklyn Bridge to Grant's Tomb [a distance of eight miles] in ten minutes." In May 1907, Harper's Magazine published Cook's account of the climb along with a photograph of what appeared to be Barrill standing on the summit. By 1909, Barrill had recanted at least part of his story about the climb, and others publicly questioned the account; however, Cook continued to assert his claim The controversy continued for decades. In 1956, mountaineers Bradford Washburn and Walter Gonnason tried to settle
5618-529: The Grand Basin between the north and south peaks. On June 7, the team made the summit attempt. Temperatures were below −20 °F (−29 °C) at times. Every man, and particularly Stuck, suffered from altitude sickness. By midday, Harper became the first climber to reach the summit, followed seconds later by Tatum and Karstens. Stuck arrived last, falling unconscious on the summit. Using the mountain's contemporary name, Tatum later commented, "The view from
5724-564: The Kahiltna Glacier is the longest glacier in the Alaska Range . The Koyukon Athabaskans who inhabit the area around the mountain have for centuries referred to the peak as Dinale or Denali . The name is based on a Koyukon word for 'high' or 'tall'. During the Russian ownership of Alaska , the common name for the mountain was Bolshaya Gora ( Russian : Большая Гора ; bolshaya 'big'; gora 'mountain'), which
5830-525: The Liek-Lindley expedition recovered a self-recording minimum thermometer left near Browne's Tower, at about 15,000 feet (4,600 m), on Denali by the Stuck-Karstens party in 1913. The spirit thermometer was calibrated down to −95 °F (−71 °C), and the lowest recorded temperature was below that point. Harry J. Liek took the thermometer back to Washington, D.C. where it was tested by
5936-480: The Parker-Browne expedition as a gentle slope ascended in no more than three days as a dangerous, ice-strewn morass on a knife-edged ridge (later named Karstens ridge). It would take the team three weeks to cover the same ground, as Karstens and Harper laboriously cut steps into the ice. On May 30, the team, with the help of some good weather, ascended to a new high camp, situated at 17,500 feet (5,334 m) in
6042-488: The Parker-Browne party were only about 200 feet (61 m) of elevation short of the true summit when they turned back. Stuck and Karstens' team achieved the uncontroversial first ascent of Denali's south peak; however, the news was met with muted interest by the wider climbing community. Appalachia Journal , then the official journal of the American Alpine Club , published a small notice of the accomplishment
6148-467: The South Summit is the higher one, while the North Summit has an elevation of 19,470 ft (5,934 m) and a prominence of approximately 1,270 ft (387 m). The North Summit is sometimes counted as a separate peak (see e.g., fourteener ) and sometimes not; it is rarely climbed, except by those doing routes on the north side of the massif . Five large glaciers flow off the slopes of
6254-552: The University of Utah on NOLS courses. Backpacking (wilderness) Backpacking is the outdoor recreation of carrying gear on one's back while hiking for more than a day. It is often an extended journey and may involve camping outdoors. In North America, tenting is common, where simple shelters and mountain huts , widely found in Europe, are rare. In New Zealand, hiking is called tramping , and tents are used alongside
6360-423: The Wind River Range. There also was an additional presumed death in 1999, where the student, Thomas Nazzaro's body, was never recovered. The National Society of High School Scholars and NOLS team together to encourage members of NSHSS to pursue leadership development. NOLS partners with the University of Utah's department of Parks, Recreation, and Tourism in order for NOLS students to receive college credit through
6466-544: The backcountry. The seven principles are: Founded by Melissa Gray and Buck Tilton in Pitkin, Colorado in 1990 as a western branch of Stonehearth Outdoor Learning Opportunities (SOLO), the Wilderness Medicine Institute (WMI) was purchased by NOLS in 1999. It is now known as NOLS Wilderness Medicine. The school maintained its headquarters in Pitkin, Colorado, until the summer of 2002, at which point
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#17327725229046572-513: The base of Denali. Stuck was an English-born Episcopal priest who came to Alaska by chance. He became acclimated to the often harsh Alaskan environment because of his many travels between far-flung outposts within his district, climbing mountains as a hobby. At 21 years old, Harper was already known as a skilled and strong outdoorsman, the Alaska-born son of a Koyukon-Athabascan mother and Irish gold prospector father. Tatum, also 21 years old,
6678-409: The body, both particularly dangerous in cold weather. Winter backpackers stick to wool or synthetic fabric like nylon or polypropylene, which hold less moisture and often have specialized wicking properties to dissipate sweat generated during aerobic activities. Layering is essential, as wet clothes quickly sap body heat and can lead to frostbite or hypothermia . A winter bivouac can also be made in
6784-402: The bulk rationing prevalent in extended trail hikes, particularly those with pre-planned food drops. Some people seek out lighter equipment for long-distance hikes, as it is easier to carry, reduces physical strain, and allows for ease of long distance travel. Ultralight gear has become increasingly more commonly used in past years as it reduces the strain on the hiker. Specialist ultralight gear
6890-421: The climbing public and the science community. Since its establishment, annual upgrades to the equipment have been performed with instrumentation custom built for the extreme weather and altitude conditions. This weather station is the third-highest weather station in the world. The weather station recorded a temperature of −75.5 °F (−59.7 °C) on December 1, 2003. On the previous day of November 30, 2003,
6996-621: The coast and began to disperse. In September 1906, Cook and a single party-member, horseman Robert Barrill, journeyed towards the summit again, in what Cook later described as "a last desperate attempt" in a telegram to his financial backers. Cook and Barrill spent 12 days in total on the attempt, and claimed to have reached the summit via the Ruth Glacier . Upon hearing Cook's claims, Parker and Browne were immediately suspicious. Browne later wrote that he knew Cook's claims were lies, just as "any New Yorker would know that no man could walk from
7102-495: The country as well as the White House on July 3, 2015. Author James Edward Mills wrote The Adventure Gap , a book chronicling the expedition as well as the history of African Americans in the outdoors in the United States. NOLS is notable as a pioneer of diversity in the traditionally white-male dominated field of outdoor adventure education . With their Vision 2020 plan, the organization has committed themselves to building
7208-518: The descent, an accessible pass northeast of the Muldrow Glacier following the headwaters of the Toklat and Chulitna rivers. In 1906, Cook initiated another expedition to Denali with co-leader Herschel Parker , a Columbia University professor of electrical engineering with extensive mountaineering experience. Belmore Browne, an experienced climber and five other men comprised the rest of
7314-441: The environmental issues around the area and humans' environmental ethics regarding the topics. Risk management is a part of the curriculum and plays a large role in how the school approaches new course areas and course types. In the field, risk management revolves around self-care, preventing injury, and handling risky situations. Students learn about proper foot care and body temperature regulation. Judgment and group decision making
7420-476: The fault bend essentially push the crust up in a vertical fashion. The longer the crust stays within the restraining bend, the higher the topography will be. Several active normal faults north of the restraining bend have recently been mapped with slip rates of approximately 2–6 mm/year. These normal faults help to accommodate the unusual curvature of the restraining bend. Denali has a summit elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m) above sea level , making it
7526-411: The final few hundred feet to reach the north peak of Denali, at 19,470 feet (5,934 m) high, the shorter of the two peaks. The pair erected the pole near the top, with the hope that it would be visible from lower reaches to prove they had made it. After the expedition, Tom Lloyd returned to Fairbanks, while the three others remained in Kantishna to mine. In Lloyd's recounting, all four men made it to
7632-470: The group. Cook and Parker's group spent most of the summer season exploring the southern and southeastern approaches to the mountain, eventually reaching a high point on Tokositna glacier , 25 miles (40 km) from the summit. During their explorations the party mapped out many of the tributaries and glaciers of the Susitna river along the mountain's south flank. As the summer ended, the team retreated to
7738-484: The high season. In the more remote parts of Great Britain, especially Scotland, bothies exist to provide simple (free) accommodation for backpackers. On the French system of long distance trails , Grande Randonnées , backpackers can stay in gîtes d'étapes , which are simple hostels provided for walkers and cyclists. There are some simple shelters and occasional mountain hut also provided in North America, including on
7844-478: The highest peak in North America and the northernmost mountain above 19,685 feet (6,000 m) elevation in the world. Measured from base to peak at some 18,000 ft (5,500 m), it is among the largest mountains situated entirely above sea level. Denali rises from a sloping plain with elevations from 1,000 to 3,000 ft (300 to 910 m), for a base-to-peak height of 17,000 to 19,000 ft (5,000 to 6,000 m). By comparison, Mount Everest rises from
7950-534: The importance of the mountain and its name, Will Mayo, former president of the Tanana Chiefs Conference , an organization that represents 42 Athabaskan tribes in the Alaskan interior, said "It's not one homogeneous belief structure around the mountain, but we all agree that we're all deeply gratified by the acknowledgment of the importance of Denali to Alaska's people." The following table lists
8056-546: The matter, with Gonnason attempting to follow Cook's purported route to the summit. Washburn noted inconsistencies between Cook's account of locations of glaciers and found a spot, at 5,400 feet (1,646 m) and 19 miles (31 km) southeast of the summit that appeared identical to the supposed summit image. Gonnason was not able to complete the climb, but because he was turned back by poor weather, felt that this did not definitely disprove Cook's story. In 1998, historian Robert Bryce discovered an original and un-cropped version of
8162-602: The mountain to be over 20,000 feet (6,100 m). These estimates were confirmed in 1898 by the surveyor Robert Muldrow , who measured its elevation as 20,300 feet (6,200 m). On November 5, 2012, the United States Mint released a twenty-five cent piece depicting Denali National Park. It is the fifteenth of the America the Beautiful Quarters series. The reverse features a Dall sheep with
8268-499: The mountain was stripped away by erosion . The forces that lifted Denali also caused many deep earthquakes in Alaska and the Aleutian Islands . The Pacific Plate is seismically active beneath Denali, a tectonic region that is known as the "McKinley cluster". The high topography of Denali is related to the complex structural relationships created by the right-lateral Denali Fault and Denali Fault Bend. The Denali Fault
8374-458: The mountain, the mountaineers set up base camp on the lower portion of Peters Glacier . Aiming for the northwest buttress of Denali's north peak, they attempted to ascend directly; however, crevasses , ice fall and the lack of a clear passage caused them to turn and attempt to follow a spur via Jeffery Glacier where they believed they could see a way to the summit. After a dangerous ascent, at around 10,000 feet (3,048 m), Wickersham found that
8480-606: The mountain. The Peters Glacier lies on the northwest side of the massif, while the Muldrow Glacier falls from its northeast slopes. Just to the east of the Muldrow, and abutting the eastern side of the massif, is the Traleika Glacier . The Ruth Glacier lies to the southeast of the mountain, and the Kahiltna Glacier leads up to the southwest side of the mountain. With a length of 44 mi (71 km),
8586-496: The name Mount McKinley after President Wilson signed the Mount McKinley National Park Act of February 26, 1917. In 1965, Lyndon B. Johnson declared the north and south peaks of the mountain the "Churchill Peaks", in honor of British statesman Winston Churchill . The Alaska Board of Geographic Names changed the name of the mountain to Denali in 1975, which was how it is called locally. However,
8692-430: The northwest buttress of the north peak, the party found they had reached a dead end and could make no further progress. On the descent, the group completely circumnavigated the mountain, the first climbing party to do so. Although Cook's 1903 expedition did not reach the summit, he received acclaim for the accomplishment, a 1,000 miles (1,609 km) trek in which he not only circled the entire mountain but also found, on
8798-482: The nucleus of the early board of trustees. Petzoldt was also an early Outward Bound Chief Instructor, and he wanted to establish a school which promoted concentrating on refining outdoor leadership skills. The first facility opened in 1965 in Lander, Wyoming at Sinks Canyon . June 8, 1965 marks the date of the founding and the first trip beginning at the trailhead of Hidden Valley Ranch where 100 male students went into
8904-585: The offices and administrative staff moved to Lander, WY, and into the newly finished NOLS international headquarters. In January 2007, WMI entered into a partnership with Landmark Learning of Cullowhee, NC in order to provide wilderness medicine courses in the American southeast. Then, in 2010 WMI entered into a partnership with REI Co-op to offer wilderness medicine courses through the REI Outdoor School (now REI Experiences). Leadership education
9010-532: The others, stayed behind. According to their account, the remaining three men pioneered a route following Karstens Ridge around the Harper Icefall, then reached the upper basin before ascending to Pioneer Ridge. The three men carried a 14-foot-long (4.3 m) spruce pole. Around 19,000 feet (5,791 m), Charles McGonagall, older and having exhausted himself carrying the spruce pole, remained behind. On April 3, 1910, Billy Taylor and Peter Anderson scrambled
9116-428: The outdoors. They learn that proper hygiene is essential to prevent illnesses. Leave No Trace principles show students how to travel in the outdoors with minimum impact. Throughout the courses students learn about Leave No Trace principles and practice them. Students gain insight into the history of their location by reading about and discussing the plants, animals, geology, etc. of their surroundings. Students delve into
9222-715: The party decided to delay one day so "that we might actually set foot on the slopes of the mountain". Setting off alone, with good weather, on August 4, Brooks aimed to reach a 10,000 feet (3,048 m) shoulder. At 7,500 feet (2,286 m), Brooks found his way blocked by sheer ice and, after leaving a small cairn as a marker, descended. After the party's return, Brooks co-authored a "Plan For Climbing Mt McKinley", published in National Geographic magazine in January 1903, with fellow party-member and topographer D. L. Raeburn, in which they suggested that future attempts at
9328-511: The peak of Denali in the background. During the summer of 1902 scientist Alfred Brooks explored the flanks of the mountain as a part of an exploratory surveying party conducted by the U.S. Geological Survey . The party landed at Cook Inlet in late May, then traveled east, paralleling the Alaska Range , before reaching the slopes of Denali in early August. Camped on the flank of the mountain on August 3, Brooks noted later that while "the ascent of Mount McKinley had never been part of our plans",
9434-436: The route did not connect as it had appeared from below, instead discovering "a tremendous precipice beyond which we cannot go. Our only line of further ascent would be to climb the vertical wall of the mountain at our left, and that is impossible." This wall, now known as the Wickersham Wall, juts 15,000 feet (4,572 m) upwards from the glacier to the north peak of Denali. Because of the route's history of avalanche danger, it
9540-521: The school and Paul Petzoldt . The school's growth continued; by the end of 1976, NOLS had 40 instructors and from 1976 to 1977, had enrolled 1,523 students. NOLS partnered with the University of Utah to offer college credit for courses, and helped create the U.S. Leave No Trace program. In 1989, NOLS adopted an outcome-based education model. In 1999, NOLS acquired the Wilderness Medicine Institute . NOLS also began to offer professional training to corporate and institutional clients, including NASA. In
9646-555: The single later climbing group, who were friendly with some of the Sourdough expedition men, no other group would ever see it. Jon Waterman, author of the book Chasing Denali , which explored the controversy, outlined several reasons to doubt the claim: There was never any photographic evidence. The four men climbed during the winter season, known for much more difficult conditions, along a route that has never been fully replicated. They were inexperienced climbers, ascending without any of
9752-617: The south of the Alaska Range in the Dena'ina and Ahtna languages the mountain is known by names that are translated as "big mountain". To the north of the Alaska Range in the Lower Tanana , Koyukon , Upper Kuskokwim , Holikachuk , and Deg Xinag languages the mountain is known by names that are translated as "the high one", "the tall one" (Koyukon, Lower and Middle Tanana, Upper Kuskokwim, Deg Xinag, and Holikachuk). Asked about
9858-611: The summer of 2001, the crew of the Space Shuttle Columbia completed a 12-day, 50-mile expedition in the Wind River Mountains of Wyoming with NOLS Professional Training. In the summer of 2013, NOLS designed, developed, and led Expedition Denali, the first team of African Americans to attempt to summit Denali (Mount McKinley), the United States’ highest peak at 20,320 feet. The summit attempt
9964-413: The summit should approach from the north, not the south. The report received substantial attention, and within a year, two climbing parties declared their intent to summit. During the early summer of 1903, Judge James Wickersham , then of Eagle, Alaska , made the first recorded attempt to climb Denali, along with a party of four others. The group attempted to get as close to the mountain as possible via
10070-416: The terrain and climate, and on a hiker's plans for shelter (refuges, huts, gites, camping, etc.). It may include: Proper hydration is critical to successful backpacking. Depending on conditions - which include weather, terrain, load, and the hiker's age and fitness - a backpacker may drink 2 to 8 litres (1/2 to 2 gallons), or more, per day. At 1 kilogram (2.2 lb) per 1 litre (1.1 US qt) water
10176-470: The top of Mount McKinley is like looking out the windows of Heaven!" During the climb, Stuck spotted, via binoculars, the presence of a large pole near the North Summit; this report confirmed the Sourdough ascent, and it is widely believed presently that the Sourdoughs did succeed on the North Summit. However, the pole was never seen before or since, so there is still some doubt. Stuck also discovered that
10282-401: The top of not only the north peak, but the higher south peak as well. When the remaining three men returned to town with conflicting accounts, the entire expedition's legitimacy was questioned. Several years later, another climbing group would claim to have seen the spruce pole in the distance, supporting their north peak claim. However, some continue to doubt they reached the summit. Outside of
10388-871: The trip and easier the conditions the more feasible such treats become. In many cases, heat, fuel and utensils are used. Small liquid or gas-fueled campstoves and lightweight cooking pots are common. Campfires are sometimes prohibited. Some backpackers consume dried foods, including many common household foods such as cereal, oatmeal, powdered milk, cheese, crackers, sausage, salami, dried fruit, peanut butter, pasta and rice. Popular snacks include trail mix , easily prepared at home; nuts, energy bars , chocolate, and other energy-dense foods. Coffee, tea, and cocoa are common beverages. Package food in plastic bags while avoiding heavier jars and cans. Dehydrators are popular for drying fruit, jerky, and pre-cooked meals. Many hikers use freeze-dried precooked entrees for hot meals, quickly reconstituted by adding boiling water. An alternative
10494-416: The usual safety gear or any care for altitude sickness. They claimed to have ascended from 11,000 feet (3,353 m) to the top in less than 18 hours, unheard of at a time when siege-style alpinism was the norm. Yet Waterman says "these guys were men of the trail. They didn't care what anybody thought. They were just tough SOBs." He noted that the men were largely unlettered and that some of the ensuing doubt
10600-413: The years, including 1993, 2007 (involving an experienced NOLS leader), 2015 and 2018. Other incidents include a seriously injured backpacker being airlifted near SquareTop Mountain in 2005, and a fatal hiker incident (from an apparent accidental fall ) in 2006 that involved state search and rescue . The U.S. Forest Service does not offer updated aggregated records on the official number of fatalities in
10706-491: Was a theology student working at a Tanana mission, and the least experienced of the team. His primary responsibility on the trip was as a cook. The team approached the peak from the north via the Muldrow glacier and McGonagall pass. While ferrying loads up to a camp at around 10,800 feet (3,292 m), they suffered a setback when a stray match accidentally set fire to some supplies, including several tents. The prior year's earthquake had left what had previously been described by
10812-455: Was not successful due to weather conditions, but the outreach work that NOLS and Expedition Denali members did before and after the expedition expanded the awareness of organizations and individuals about people of color engaging in the outdoors and in providing youth of color with role models to pursue their own outdoor interests. A film, An American Ascent , was made throughout the expedition and has been shown in film festivals and schools around
10918-402: Was not successfully climbed until 1963. Later in the summer of 1903, Dr. Frederick Cook directed a team of five men on another attempt at the summit. Cook was already an experienced explorer and had been a party-member on successful arctic expeditions commanded both by Robert Peary and Roald Amundsen . Yet he struggled to obtain funding for his own expedition, eventually organizing it "on
11024-710: Was popularized in the 1960's after the passing of The Wilderness Act . Since then, the majority of backpackers have been young, white, men. Studies surrounding the outdoor activity have reflected this. The effects on backpacking (hiking) on women wasn't studied until around 2004, and research is still lacking. Winter backpacking requires a higher level of skill and generally more specialized gear than in other seasons. Skis or snowshoes may be required to traverse deep snow, or crampons and an ice axe where needed. Winter sleeping bags and tents are essential, as are waterproof, water-repellent, and moisture dissipating materials. Cotton clothing retains moisture and chills
11130-500: Was related to their lack of sophistication in dealing with the press and the contemporary climbing establishment. In 1912, the Parker -Browne expedition nearly reached the summit, turning back within just a few hundred yards/meters of it due to harsh weather. On July 7, the day after their descent, a 7.4-magnitude earthquake shattered the glacier they had ascended. The first ascent of the main summit of Denali came on June 7, 1913, by
11236-704: Was required to rename the mountain. The Alaska Dispatch News reported that the Secretary of the Interior has authority under federal law to change geographic names when the Board of Geographic Names does not act on a naming request within a "reasonable" period of time. Jewell told the Alaska Dispatch News that "I think any of us would think that 40 years is an unreasonable amount of time." Indigenous names for Denali can be found in seven different Alaskan languages. The names fall into two categories. To
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