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Nelder Grove

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Nelder Grove , located in the western Sierra Nevada within the Sierra National Forest in Madera County, California , is a Giant sequoia grove that was formerly known as Fresno Grove. The grove is a 1,540-acre (6.2 km) tract containing 60 mature Giant Sequoia ( Sequoiadendron giganteum ) trees, the largest concentration of giant sequoias in the Sierra National Forest. The grove also contains several historical points of interest, including pioneer cabins, giant sequoia stumps left by 19th-century loggers, and the site where the Forest King exhibition tree was felled in 1870 for display.

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38-495: Before European Americans arrived, Nelder Grove had 400 mature sequoias, but the population has experienced several steep declines since then. About 70% of the mature trees were cut during the late 19th century timber era. Despite federal protection in the 20th century, the sequoias have been further impacted by decades of fire exclusion, with 38 trees lost in the Railroad Fire of 2017. Today, only 60 mature specimens remain in

76-593: A Dolbeer single spool donkey , a steam-powered winch, made the work easier in later years. Due to a lack of water in the grove, a 1 mi (1.6 km) long gravity tramway was built to transport the lumber to the Soquel log flume , which then transported it 52 mi (84 km) to the Madera lumber yards, before it finally reached the national market via the Southern Pacific Railroad . By 1897,

114-454: A drip zone around the roots for collecting moisture. The retained limbs can become a fuel ladder that allows flames to climb up to the canopy. Limbing-up white fir, instead of removing medium to large diameter trees, in areas where the public is more likely to start fires can help keep other trees and specifically giant sequoia from experiencing canopy fire. Recent concern for sequoia groves has caused agencies to call for removal of white fir in

152-538: A significant number of large diameter white fir from much of its range. Other subspecies of sooty grouse also utilize Douglas fir, which does not occur in the range of Mount Pinos sooty grouse. Squirrel also frequent the tree's branches. Deer browse the foliage of this species and porcupines chew the bark. Songbirds, grouse, and various mammals eat the seeds. White fir and grand fir were used by Native Americans for medicinal use involving powdered bark or pitch to treat tuberculosis or skin ailments. The Nlaka'pamux used

190-539: A strong correlation between fire severity and the density, growth, and dominance of new giant sequoia seedlings. The successful natural regeneration of these seedlings provides hope for restoring other groves with large burn scars. In July 2022, the U.S. Forest Service authorized an expedited Emergency Response plan to reduce combustible materials in Nelder Grove. Officials aim to replicate the success of wildfire prevention efforts seen in nearby Mariposa Grove during

228-519: Is more shade tolerant than Douglas fir , but less so than western hemlock and western redcedar . White fir is a climax species , which means the forest has reached complex maturity in forest succession in western coniferous forests of the U.S. White fir and yellow pine ( ponderosa pine / Jeffrey pine ) have co-existed for millennia in old growth forests throughout their range. In the presence of logging of large diameter trees and exclusion of cleansing wildfires, young trees have become abundant over

266-724: Is native to the mountains of western North America from the southern Cascade Range in Oregon , south throughout California and into the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir in northern Baja California , and south throughout the Colorado Plateau and southern Rocky Mountains in Utah and Colorado , and into the isolated mountain ranges of southern Arizona , New Mexico, and Northern Mexico . It naturally occurs between 900 and 3,400 m (3,000 and 11,200 ft) above sea level. White fir

304-568: Is popular as an ornamental landscaping tree and as a Christmas tree . This large evergreen conifer grows best in the central Sierra Nevada of California, where the record specimen was recorded as 74.9 metres (246 feet) tall and measured 4.6 m (15 ft) in diameter at breast height (dbh) in Yosemite National Park . The typical size of white fir ranges from 25–60 m (82–197 ft) tall and up to 2.7 m (8 ft 10 in) dbh. The largest specimens are found in

342-431: Is usually at least 10 cm (4 in) thick, and brown-hued inside. The leaves are needle-like, flattened, 2.5–8 cm (1– 3 + 1 ⁄ 8  in) long and 2 millimetres ( 3 ⁄ 32  in) wide by 0.5–1 mm ( 1 ⁄ 64 – 3 ⁄ 64  in) thick, green to glaucous blue-green above, and with two glaucous blue-white bands of stomatal bloom below, and slightly notched to bluntly pointed at

380-529: Is very closely related to grand fir ( Abies grandis ), and intergrades with it in central Oregon. It is also suggested that all of subspecies lowiana has experienced genetic introgression from grand fir. White fir occupies a different niche than grand fir, including dryer and higher elevation sites, being more drought tolerant and having thicker, fire-resistant bark. In Mexico, it is replaced by further close relatives, Durango fir ( A. durangensis ) and Mexican fir ( A. mexicana ). Like grand fir, white fir

418-601: The Santa Fe area of New Mexico in 1846–1847. Fendler's patron George Engelmann, a St. Louis area physician and botanist, then described the plant. This tree was first collected in California by William Lobb on his expedition to California of 1849–1853, after it was overlooked by David Douglas in his 1825–1827 expedition to the Pacific coast region. The specific epithet concolor means "all one color". This tree

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456-488: The white fir , concolor fir , or Colorado fir , is a coniferous tree in the pine family Pinaceae . This tree is native to the mountains of western North America, including the Sierra Nevada and southern Rocky Mountains , and into the isolated mountain ranges of southern Arizona , New Mexico , and Northern Mexico . It naturally occurs at elevations between 900 and 3,400 metres (3,000 and 11,200 ft). It

494-437: The wildfire ’s intensity to several factors, including the historic 2011–2017 California drought , which caused significant dieback and stress in giant sequoias. Additionally, a century of fire suppression had led to heavy fuel buildup on the forest floor and dense understory growth, making the blaze more destructive. Forest monitors had warned of such risks for decades. As early as the 1960s, Madera County discussed acquiring

532-563: The 1849 gold rush , filed a homestead claim for 165 acres within the grove in 1874 and built a cabin near its largest tree the following year. Muir wrote about Nelder and the grove for The Atlantic Monthly in 1878, later including it in his book Our National Parks . Since '49 he had wandered over most of the Sierra, sinking innumerable prospect holes like a sailor making soundings, digging new channels for streams, sifting gold-sprinkled boulder and gravel beds with unquenchable energy, life's noon

570-533: The 2022 Washburn Fire . As part of the initiative, 42 mature giant sequoias now have a 100-foot protective buffer. Railroad Fire The Railroad Fire was a wildfire that burned in between the communities of Sugar Pine and Fish Camp in the Sierra National Forest in California , United States. The fire was reported on August 29, 2017 and burned 12,407 acres (50 km ) before it

608-481: The Nelder Grove Historic Area, including cabins dating back to the late 1800s, in protective, heat-shielding material. As of September 7, Pacific Gas & Electric began working to re-establish electricity in the fire area and increased humidity overnight helped slow the fire. By September 10, the fire had burned 12,358 acres (50 km ) and was 70% contained, with 1,035 personnel fighting

646-484: The Sierra Nevada. While sequoia seedlings and young saplings are highly susceptible to mortality or serious injury by fire; mature sequoias are fire adapted with: fire-resistant bark, elevated canopies, self-pruning lower branches, latent buds, and serotinous cones. The sequoia ecosystem is incomplete without the mixed pine/fir and oak that make up the mid and understory. Giant Sequoia 's cones release seeds when

684-561: The area close to the mill had been completely logged, and the last sequoia in Nelder Grove was cut. The Nelder Grove is home to several giant sequoias that are notable for their size and history. Nelder Grove is less accessible compared to the nearby Mariposa Grove , which can be easily reached by paved roads and shuttle buses. Under favorable conditions, visitors can reach Nelder Grove within two hours from Fresno by heading north, or from Yosemite National Park by traveling south on Highway 41 to Road 632, also known as Sky Ranch Road. However,

722-691: The area served as a seasonal hub for the Mono and Miwok tribes during their trans-Sierra travels. Other tribes, including the Dumma, Heuchi, Chuckchansi , Chowchillas, Paiute , Kechayi , and Dalinchi, also traveled through the region. Artifacts such as mortar holes, which were used to grind acorns into flour, are evidence of this longstanding human presence. In July 1858, conservationist Galen Clark formally discovered Nelder Grove, naming it Fresno Grove due to its location in Fresno County and proximity to

760-451: The bark to cover lodges and make canoes. Branches were also used as bedding. White fir is a preferred construction species because of its nail-holding ability, lightness in weight, and resistance to split, twist, and pitch. It is straight-grained, non-resinous, fine-textured, stiff, and strong. It is popular as a Christmas tree and for Christmas decoration owing to its soft needles, generally excellent needle retention and abundance. It

798-841: The central Sierra Nevada, where the largest diameter recorded was found in Sierra National Forest at 58.5 m × 8.5 m (192 ft × 28 ft) (1972); the west slope of the Sierra Nevada is also home to the tallest specimen on record, 78.8 m (259 ft) in height. Abies concolor subsp. concolor ( Rocky mountain white fir) rarely exceeds 38 m (125 ft) tall or 0.9 m (3 ft) dbh. Large (but not huge) trees in good soil range from 40 to 60 m (130 to 200 ft) tall and from 99 to 165 centimetres (39 to 65 in) dbh in California and southwestern Oregon and to 41 m (135 ft) tall and 124 cm (49 in) dbh in Arizona and New Mexico. The dead tree tops sometimes fork into new growth. The gray bark

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836-522: The dirt road leading into the grove can be difficult, with muddy and rutted conditions, and is often impassable due to deep snow during the winter months. The Shadow of the Giants National Recreation Trail, located in Nelder Grove, was built in 1965 and designated a National Recreation Trail in 1978. However, the Railroad Fire in 2015 destroyed the trail’s informational panels, bridges, and other infrastructure. As of 2022,

874-528: The fire, which had been burning concurrently with two others in the region. Yosemite National Park reported that air quality was "unhealthy" in the park as of September 6. Additionally, the US Forest Service reported that air quality was "hazardous" in Wawona . That same day, Yosemite High School released students early from school due to poor air quality. White fir Abies concolor ,

912-475: The fire. Crews were pulled from the fire lines on the evening of September 11 due to thunderstorms that brought a quarter inch of rain into the area. On October 24, the wildfire was fully contained. The fire burned through much of Nelder Grove killing 38 of the grove's 92 monarch trees and forcing the permanent closure of The Shadow of the Giants trail. The air quality in the area declined rapidly due to

950-466: The grove to bypass federal restrictions on timber cutting and prescribed burns in the Sierra National Forest . Despite these warnings, no major preventive actions were taken before the Railroad Fire. “We’d better reduce the fuels, or we’re going to lose this resource,” Paul Rich, a retired 33-year veteran of the U.S. Forest Service, warned in 2000. Following the Railroad Fire , researchers noted

988-652: The grove. In 1928, the Madera Sugar Pine Company transferred the land to the U.S. Forest Service , placing the grove under federal protection. Nelder Grove, a montane forest in the Sierra Nevada, is primarily composed of giant sequoias along with other tree species such as ponderosa pine , white fir , and California incense-cedar . The sequoias in Nelder Grove exhibit a low level of genetic diversity, unusual even for their species. Despite its proximity, just 4.3 mi (6.9 km) from Mariposa Grove , there's no evidence of genetic exchange between

1026-718: The headwaters of the Fresno River . However, a later discovery in Robert Eccleston 's diary revealed that the Mariposa Battalion had already passed through the grove in 1851 during the Mariposa War , a discovery that had not been publicized at the time. The grove is now named for John A. Nelder, known as the "Hermit of the Fresno Forest" by John Muir . Nelder, who came to California during

1064-877: The heat of fire triggers them to open while the thick bark protects the inner cambium from fire damage. This tree is host to fir mistletoe ( Phoradendron pauciflorum ), a parasitic plant . It is attacked by many types of insects, such as the fir engraver ( Scolytus ventralis ). Mature white fir–yellow pine forests support old-growth dependent wildlife species such as California spotted owl ( Strix occidentalis occidentalis ), Mount Pinos sooty grouse ( Dendragapus fuliginosus howardi ), and Pacific fisher ( Pekania pennanti ). The spotted owl and fisher utilize cavities in decadent large-diameter white fir for nesting and denning. The Mount Pinos sooty grouse requires large diameter trees for thermal cover and its winter diet consists of mostly white fir and yellow pine needles. This subspecies of sooty grouse has been extirpated along with

1102-593: The late 1800s at nearby Bildeo Meadow, were moved to Nelder Grove in the 1980s under a project funded by the National Historic Preservation Act . They are among the oldest structures in the Sierra National Forest. In September 2017, the Railroad Fire swept through much of Nelder Grove, destroying 38 of its giant sequoias and leading to the permanent closure of the popular Shadow of the Giants trail. Experts attribute

1140-419: The late 19th century. The Madera Flume and Trading Company logged 277 mature sequoias, each measuring over four feet in diameter, between 1880 and 1892. Many of the surrounding trees, including sugar pines , ponderosa pines , white firs , and incense-cedars were also clearcut . The logging process in the grove was grueling, with horse and oxen teams hauling heavy wagons of logs to the mill. The arrival of

1178-472: The meanwhile passing unnoticed into late afternoon shadows. Then, health and gold gone, the game played and lost, like a wounded deer creeping into this forest solitude, he awaits the sundown call. John Nelder was killed in 1889 when a fire consumed his cabin. His son inherited his estate and deeded it to the Madera Flume and Trading Company in 1892. Nelder Grove was subjected to extensive logging in

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1216-520: The past two centuries. White fir had been regarded as a pest in the past by those in the lumber industry, but this opinion has changed. White fir is now one of the most important of all commercial softwoods according to the Western Wood Products Association. The white fir trait of retaining lower limbs creates an escape route for medium-to-small forest birds (such as spotted owl ) from larger flying predators and provides

1254-604: The remaining 104 giant sequoias in Nelder Grove. The Railroad Fire was reported on August 29, 2017 in the area between the communities of Sugar Pine and Fish Camp the Sierra National Forest . The cause is unknown. On September 3, mandatory evacuations were ordered for the Sky Ranch Road area, due to the fire spreading towards residential areas after a storm, including the Cedar Valley Subdivision. On Labor Day crews wrapped historic structures in

1292-448: The scale bracts are short, and hidden in the closed cone. The winged seeds are released when the cones disintegrate at maturity about 6 months after pollination. White fir can live over 300 years. As treated here, there are two subspecies ; these are also variously treated at either the lower rank of variety by some authors, or as distinct species by others: White fir was first collected by Augustus Fendler on his expedition to

1330-480: The tip. The leaf arrangement is spiral on the shoot, but with each leaf variably twisted at the base so they all lie in either two more-or-less flat ranks on either side of the shoot, or upswept across the top of the shoot but not below the shoot. The cones are 6–12 cm ( 2 + 1 ⁄ 4 – 4 + 3 ⁄ 4  in) long and 4–4.5 cm ( 1 + 5 ⁄ 8 – 1 + 3 ⁄ 4  in) broad, green or purple ripening pale brown, with about 100–150 scales;

1368-427: The trail remains closed and overgrown with brush. Additionally, there is a Sierra National Forest campground located at the Nelder Grove which serves as a spot for camping and outdoor activities. The Nelder Grove Interpretive Center features several artifacts from the area's logging era, including two restored log cabins and replicas of traditional logging chutes. These cabins, originally constructed by pioneers in

1406-492: The two populations. This genetic isolation heightens Nelder Grove's vulnerability to climate change , underscoring its conservation importance. The grove also supports rare plant species, including the mountain-lady slipper orchid and the veined water lichen . Its wildlife includes black bear , mule deer , long-tailed weasel , raccoon , gray squirrel , chipmunk , and flying squirrels . Human occupation of Nelder Grove dates back approximately 15,000 years. Historically,

1444-589: Was fully contained on October 24. It occurred during the historic 2011–2017 California drought . The cause of the fire remains unknown. The fire threatened communities in the area, historic buildings in the Nelder Grove Historic Area, Tenaya Lodge, and Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad , which the fire was named after. It also impacted tourism and air quality in the forest and Yosemite National Park . It killed 39 out of

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