The South Swedish highlands or South Swedish Uplands (Swedish: Sydsvenska höglandet ) are a hilly area covering large parts of Götaland in southern Sweden . Except for a lack of deep valleys, the landscape is similar to the Norrland terrain found further north in Sweden. The central-eastern parts of the highlands contain about thirty narrow canyons locally known as skurus .
47-481: Much of the highlands lies above 200 m.a.s.l. and there are large areas around the highlands that exceed 100 m.a.s.l. The highlands are centered on Småland but cover also large swathes of Scania , Halland , Västergötland , Östergötland and Blekinge . The highest point lies 377 m.a.s.l. The South Swedish highlands have been populated since the Nordic Stone Age as evidenced by cist findings. During
94-571: A blockade of supplies, before finally being defeated by larger forces attacking from both Västergötland and Östergötland. He famously defended Kronoberg Castle (now ruined) but was shot while trying to escape to then Danish-ruled Blekinge. A portion of Småland called the Kingdom of Crystal is known for its many glassworks and can be traced back to the 18th century. During the 17th and 18 Century Småland saw Christian revival break out, leading to an increase of entrepreneurship, church building and
141-486: A higher level of religious intensity and church participation. In terms of Lutheran ecclesiastical boundaries, most of the province encompasses the diocese of Växjö . Parts of northern Småland are in the diocese of Linköping . Småland is known for its free church congregations in Jönköping County. Most of Kalmar County and Kronoberg County have few or no free church congregations. Politically Småland
188-439: A lion rampant gules, langued and armed azure, holding in its front paws a crossbow of the second, bowed and stringed Sable with a bolt argent." The population of Småland was 780,389 as of 31 December 2023. The land is dominated by a forested high plain in which the soil is mixed with sand and small boulders, making it barren in all but the coastal areas and unsuited for agriculture except in certain locations, most notably
235-439: A plain grading to a base level only at a grand-scale. At the grand-scale peneplains are characterized by appearing to be sculpted in rock with disregard of rock structure and lithology , but in detail, their shape is structurally controlled, for example, drainage divides in peneplain can follow more resistant rock. In the view of Davis large streams do became insensitive to lithology and structure, which they were not during
282-651: A process in nature, is not without controversy, due to a lack of contemporary examples and uncertainty in identifying relic examples. By some definitions, peneplains grade down to a base level represented by sea level , yet in other definitions such a condition is ignored. Geomorphologist Karna Lidmar-Bergström and co-workers consider the base level criterion crucial and above the precise mechanism of formation of peneplains, including this way some pediplains among peneplains. While peneplains are usually assumed to form near sea level it has also been posited that peneplains can form at height if extensive sedimentation raises
329-496: A region is known as a primary peneplain. An example of a primary peneplain is the Sub-Cambrian peneplain in southern Sweden. The peneplain concept is often juxtaposed to that of pediplain . However authors like Karna Lidmar-Bergström classify pediplains as a type of peneplain. On the contrary Lester Charles King held them as incompatible landforms arguing that peneplains do not exist. King wrote: According to King
376-529: Is divided almost entirely into the three administrative counties of Jönköping , Kalmar , and Kronoberg . Some few small portions of historic Småland are situated in Halland and Östergötland Counties . The current coat of arms, granted in 1569, displays a rampant red lion carrying a crossbow, all on a golden background. The arms may be surmounted by a ducal coronet. The blazon in English would be, "Or,
423-450: Is from Älmhult, the founder of the global company IKEA . The name "Småland" is used as the name of the children's play areas at some IKEA stores. Småland is home to Linnaeus University , located in Växjö and Kalmar, and Jönköping University . The Swedish emigration to North America during the 19th century, is best depicted in a suite of novels by author Vilhelm Moberg , which is also
470-432: Is irrelevant and that the term peneplain has been used and can be used in a purely descriptive manner. Further, alternation of processes with varying climate, relative sea level and biota make old surfaces unlikely to be of a single origin. Peneplains that are detached from their base level are identified by either hosting an accumulation of sediments that buries it or by being in an uplifted position. Burial preserves
517-476: Is named Småland ("small lands") because it was an aggrupation of a dozen little (yet largely independent) territories: Kinda (today a part of Östergötland ), Tveta, Vista, Vedbo, Tjust , Sevede, Aspeland, Handbörd, Möre , Värend , Finnveden , and Njudung. Each "small land" had its own law in the Viking age and early Middle Ages and could declare itself neutral in wars that Sweden was involved in — at least if
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#1732765186684564-620: Is the South Småland peneplain that formed in the Neogene . In detail the South Swedish Dome has the form of a piedmonttreppen or staircase of erosion surfaces. From top to bottom the levels are: The Late Cenozoic uplift of the dome is tentatively related to far-field compressional stresses that has uplifted the region as a giant anticline -like lithosphere fold . As such it is similar to uplifted passive margins like
611-807: Is the strongest province for Kristdemokraterna (the Swedish Christian Democratic Party) , and both of the last two leaders of the party - Göran Hägglund and Alf Svensson live in Jönköping Municipality in northern Småland. Carl Linnaeus (sw. Carl von Linné), (1707–1778), the botanist, often called the father of taxonomy or "The flower-king", was born in Älmhult in Småland. He gave the twinflower its Latin name based on his own ( Latin: Linnaea borealis ), because of his particular fondness of it. The flower has become Småland's provincial flower. Ingvar Kamprad
658-608: The Kalmar plains. The province is rich in lakes and bogs. The coast is marked by bays in the north (with an island archipelago offshore) and cultivated flatlands in the south. In total, cultivated land covers 14%, meadows cover 7%, and forests cover 50% of the surface of the province. Other than lacking deep valleys, the landscape is similar to the Norrland terrain found further north in Sweden. The largest towns are Jönköping in
705-797: The Nordic Bronze Age ( c. 1700 –500 BC) there was a significant agricultural expansion across the highlands. Soils developed on glacial till were cleared, with stones then piled in cairns. Other periods of agricultural expansion are the Roman Iron Age and the High Middle Ages (c. 13th century). Poor soil conditions have posed significant difficulties for agriculture in the highlands, meaning that over time small industries became relatively important in local economies. Many abandoned fields are now covered with forest. Vestiges of abandoned fields can be recognised through
752-615: The Scandinavian Mountains or the mountains of Western and Eastern Greenland . During the last deglaciation of the Weichselian Ice Sheet the South Swedish highlands was a place of ice flow divergence. Deglaciation of southern Sweden was relatively slow with ice margin retreat rates of less than 150 m/yr. The retreat was interrupted multiple times by small glacier advances. These advances led to
799-786: The Sub-Cambrian peneplain , the South Småland peneplain and the "200 m peneplain". These surfaces and others are arranged in a stepped sequence called a piedmonttreppen . In eastern Småland, the Sub-Cambrian peneplain dips gently to the sea. To the West, this part of the Sub-Cambrian peneplain terminates along a north–south escarpment (running slightly to the east of Växjö ) that separates it from other flat surfaces. Central and northwestern Småland contains strings of isolated hills . The lakes and rivers of Småland are associated to zones of weak rock, either fractured , weathered , or both. The many lakes in Småland owe their existence to
846-487: The King had no army present at the parliamentary debate. Around 1350, during the reign of Magnus Eriksson , the first national law code was introduced in Sweden and the historic provinces lost much of their old autonomy. The city of Kalmar is one of the oldest cities of Sweden . In the medieval period it was the southernmost and the third largest city in Sweden, when it was a center for export of iron, which, in many cases,
893-640: The Swedish and Scandinavian all-time highest-measured temperature with 38 °C (100 °F) on 1 June 1947. The area was probably populated in the Stone Age from the south, by people moving along the coast up to Kalmar . Småland was populated by Stone Age peoples by at least 6000 BC, since the Alby People are known to have crossed the ice bridge across the Kalmar Strait at that time. It
940-461: The area near Mörlunda containing various particularly narrow (<50 m) canyons. The climate of Småland is divided between the oceanic climate of coastal areas such as Kalmar and the humid continental climate of the interior higher areas such as Jönköping. Southern interior areas such as Växjö have similar oceanic climates such as the coastline. However, temperature average differences between areas are relatively small, since Småland lies in
987-507: The basis for the musical Kristina from Duvemåla created by Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus of ABBA fame. In her writing, children's book author Astrid Lindgren often portrayed scenes from her own childhood, growing up on a farm in Småland. In the 20th century, Småland has been known for its high level of entrepreneurship and low unemployment, especially in the Gnosjö region . Old Swedish encyclopedia Nordisk familjebok describes
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#17327651866841034-417: The coalesced pediments of the pediplains form a series of very gentle concave slopes, a difference with Davis' understanding of peneplains may lie in the fact that his idealized peneplains had very gentle convex slopes instead. However, Davis' views on the subject are not fully clear. Contrary to this view Rhodes Fairbridge and Charles Finkl argue that the precise mechanism of formation (pediplanation, etc.)
1081-464: The continental/oceanic transition zone. Summer daytime averages are similar throughout the province, since all three major urban areas are on average around 22 °C (72 °F) with daytime winter temperatures hovering around the freezing point. The slightly colder nights averaging −5 °C (23 °F) in Jönköping are in keeping with its continental classification. The locality of Målilla has
1128-624: The creation of basins through the stripping of an irregular mantle of weathered rock by glacial erosion . The Lagan and the Nissan drain western Småland, following for most of their courses zones of weak rock associated with the Protogine Zone . Rusken , Rymmen , and Möckeln lakes are aligned with a more eastern branch of the Protogine Zone. Canyons cut into the bedrock are common in central and northern Småland, with
1175-458: The difference between pediplains and Davis’ peneplains is in the history and processes behind their formation, and less so in the final shape. A difference in form that may be present is that of residual hills, which in Davis’ peneplains are to have gentle slopes, while in pediplains they ought to have the same steepness as the slopes in the early stages of erosion leading to pediplanation. Given that
1222-822: The following classification scheme for peneplains: Rhodes Fairbridge and Charles Finkl argue that peneplains are often of mixed origin (polygenetic), as they may have been shaped by etchplanation during periods of humid climate and pediplanation during periods of arid and semi-arid climate. The long time spans under which some peneplains evolve ensures varied climatic influences . The same authors do also list marine abrasion and glacial erosion among processes that can contribute in shaping peneplains. In addition, epigene peneplains can be distinguished from exhumed peneplains. Epigene peneplains are those that have never been buried or covered by sedimentary rock. Exhumed peneplains are those that are re-exposed after having been buried in sediments. The oldest identifiable peneplain in
1269-445: The formation of peneplains and hilly relief. The Sub-Cambrian peneplain of Late Neoproterozoic age is the oldest of the surfaces. It covers the eastern and northern flanks of the dome and its crest region where it is up-broken. The Sub- Mesozoic hilly relief covers the southern and western fringes of the dome, corresponding roughly with the counties of Halland , Blekinge and northeastern Scania . The youngest well-defined surface
1316-623: The formation of a series of end moraine systems. During deglaciation in southern Sweden glacier ice was mostly warm-based with some lesser parts being cold-based . At present various lakes in the South Swedish highlands contain planktonic crustacean species that are relics from the time the Weichselian Ice Sheet left the area about 12,000 years ago. Lake Sommen stands out for having as much as three glacial relict crustacean species. These species are Pallasea quadrispinosa , Mysis affinis and Limnocalanus macrurus . Yet
1363-411: The highlands by the characteristic piles of stones made when areas were cleared for cultivation. The climate of the western parts of the highlands is more humid than on the east. This is due to orographic precipitation caused by southwestern wind forcing moist air over the highlands. Lake Sommen in the northeastern part of the highlands has relatively low humidity and low precipitation. Ljungby in
1410-520: The inhabitants of Småland as follows: A running joke local to Sweden, is that Smålandians are very economical, ranging from modestly frugal to utterly cheap . Ingvar Kamprad, founder of IKEA said that the Smålandians are seen as the Scotsmen of Sweden. The local language is a Swedish dialect known as Småländska ( Smalandian ). This may in turn be separated in two main branches, with
1457-624: The island Öland in the Baltic Sea . The name Småland literally means "small lands", referring to many small historic provinces from which it was composed. The Latinized form Smolandia has been used in other languages. The highest point in Småland is Tomtabacken , at 377 metres (1,237 ft). In terms of total area, Småland is similar in size to Belgium and Israel . Whilst the traditional provinces of Sweden no longer serve any governmental purpose per se , they do retain historical and cultural importance. The province of Småland today
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1504-515: The lake lacks the most common relict crustacean found in the lakes of southern Sweden, the Mysis relicta . 56°59′00″N 14°33′00″E / 56.9833°N 14.5500°E / 56.9833; 14.5500 Sm%C3%A5land Småland ( Swedish pronunciation: [ˈsmǒːland] ) is a historical province ( landskap ) in southern Sweden . Småland borders Blekinge , Scania , Halland , Västergötland , Östergötland and
1551-457: The local base level sufficiently or if river networks are continuously obstructed by tectonic deformation . The peneplains of the Pyrenees and Tibetan Plateau may exemplify these two cases respectively. A common misconception about peneplains is that they ought to be so plain they are featureless. In fact, some peneplains may be hilly as they reflect irregular deep weathering , forming
1598-564: The nearby village of Spinkabo measurable snowfall was observed on 30 September 1995 (12 cm) and 14 June 1982 (7 cm). Since only three months have a mean daily temperature exceeding 10°C, the climate qualifies as subarctic. Winter is often the longest season, in higher elevations lasting from mid-November until end of March. Galtåsen located far from the coast and on an altitude 360 m.a.s.l. averaging meteorological winter from 14 November until 2 April. Summer lasts from 2 June to 3 September. The South Swedish highlands are less exposed to storms than
1645-495: The north-west, Växjö in the south, and Kalmar on the east coast near Öland Island. Småland comprises the central, eastern, and southern parts of the South Swedish highlands . In detail, the topography of Småland is a series of flat surfaces built upon or deformed by a geological dome . The elevated terrain thought to be a buckle formed as result of far-away forces transmitted to Sweden. The main surfaces are
1692-567: The northern related to the Götaland dialects and the southern to the Scanian dialects . For details, see: Districts of Småland After the unification of Sweden , around 800–1200 AD, Småland was for consistency divided into chartered cities and into hundreds . The historical sub-divisions of all Sweden's provinces were through hundreds ( Swedish: härad ). These were Småland's hundreds: List of towns in Småland, Sweden Football in
1739-402: The peneplain. Any exposed peneplain detached from its baselevel can be considered a paleosurface or paleoplain . Uplift of a peneplain commonly results in renewed erosion. As Davis put it in 1885: Uplifted peneplains can be preserved as fossil landforms in conditions of extreme aridity or under non-eroding cold-based glacier ice. Erosion of peneplains by glaciers in shield regions
1786-448: The province is administered by Smålands Fotbollförbund . 57°06′04″N 14°53′53″E / 57.101°N 14.898°E / 57.101; 14.898 Peneplain In geomorphology and geology , a peneplain is a low-relief plain formed by protracted erosion . This is the definition in the broadest of terms, albeit with frequency the usage of peneplain is meant to imply
1833-420: The representation of a near-final (or penultimate) stage of fluvial erosion during times of extended tectonic stability. Peneplains are sometimes associated with the cycle of erosion theory of William Morris Davis , but Davis and other workers have also used the term in a purely descriptive manner without any theory or particular genesis attached. The existence of some peneplains, and peneplanation as
1880-532: The sending out of missionaries all over the world. To this day, the people of Småland are affected by this activity. In the 19th century, Småland was afflicted by social and economic turbulence and poverty, and it had substantial emigration to North America . 4,300 Swedish emigrants were recruited to settle in Stamford, Texas , by the family network of the first Swedish emigrant to Texas, Swante M. Swenson , who came from Jönköping . The furniture company IKEA
1927-432: The southern and western coasts of Sweden, yet storms can still be very destructive. The 2005 Cyclone Gudrun was particularly strong, causing much damage to forests in the southwestern part of the highlands. Spruces were particularly hit by Gudrun, while other trees with a more steady root system fared better. Damage was exacerbated by the planting of spruces and practice of clearcutting , which left many trees exposed to
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1974-584: The southwestern parts of the highlands holds the monthly precipitation record for Småland with 347 mm in August 1945. The South Swedish highlands has the records for the coldest and hottest temperatures in Götaland . The cold record is −38.5 °C on 16 January 1918 in Lommaryd , while the hot record is 38 °C on 29 June 1947 in Målilla . Temperatures on Tomtabacken , are lower all year round than those of
2021-603: The surrounding area. In January the mean daily temperature on the summit falls to around -5°C, which is similar to the temperature in Dalsland or Uppland , both of which are significantly further north. In July the mean daily temperature only reaches around 14°C, comparable with Jokkmokk on the Arctic Circle . The annual mean daily temperature is below 5°C, comparable to Östersund , 750 km further north. Although snowfall usually occurs from late October to early May, in
2068-442: The valley phase of erosion cycle. This may explain the existence of superimposed streams . There are various terms for landforms that are either alternatives to classical peneplains, a sub-set of peneplains or partially overlap with the term. The last is the case of planation surfaces that may be peneplains or not, while some peneplains are not planation surfaces. In their 2013 work Green, Lidmar-Bergström and co-workers provide
2115-492: The wind. Gudrun also caused blackouts and disabled telecommunications infrastructure through the highlands. Within a geological context the highlands are the expression of the South Swedish Dome. The South Swedish Dome has subsided and been uplifted multiple times by epeirogenic movements during the Phanerozoic . The dome has had periods of subsidence, and burial in sediments have alternated with periods of exhumation and
2162-611: Was founded in the Småland town of Älmhult . Overnight between 8 and 9 January 2005 the province suffered serious damage from the storm Gudrun . Towns with former city status were: Eksjö (chartered around 1400), Gränna (1652), Huskvarna (1911), Jönköping (1284), Kalmar (approximately 1100), Ljungby (1936), Nybro (1932), Nässjö (1914), Oskarshamn (1856), Sävsjö (1947), Tranås (1919), Vetlanda (1920), Vimmerby (approximately 1400), Värnamo (1920), Västervik (approximately 1200), Växjö (1342) Småland has four national parks: Compared to much of Sweden, Småland has
2209-532: Was handled by German merchants. At that time, Scania and Blekinge were not part of Sweden. Småland was the center of several peasant rebellions. The most nearly successful was the Dackefejden led by Nils Dacke in 1542 and 1543. When officials of king Gustav Vasa were assaulted and murdered, the king sent small expeditions to pacify the area; but all failed. Dacke was the virtual ruler of large parts of Småland during that Winter, though much troubled by
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