Fashion design is the art of applying design , aesthetics , clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories . It is influenced by culture and different trends and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates clothing, including dresses, suits, pants, and skirts, and accessories like shoes and handbags, for consumers. He or she can specialize in clothing, accessory, or jewelry design, or may work in more than one of these areas."
151-583: Schunck ( Dutch pronunciation: [ɕuŋk] ) is the name of former fashion house and department store Firma Schunck in Heerlen , the Netherlands . It is also the name for the collection of buildings the firm has been housed in, one of which is known as the Glaspaleis ( Glass Palace ), which is now a cultural centre and declared one of the 1000 most important buildings of the 20th century by
302-522: A revival in interest in traditional Han clothing has led to interest in haute couture clothing with historical Chinese details, particularly around Chinese New Year . Fashion in the Soviet Union largely followed general trends of the Western world. However, the state's socialist ideology consistently moderated and influenced these trends. In addition, shortages of consumer goods meant that
453-470: A centre for this largely agricultural region, with several government offices, the postal service, schools and some small industries. But most importantly, the major regional markets were held here, twice a week, at the Church Square, which the surrounding businesses profited from, and it may be that especially this latter fact was another reason the young couple came to set up shop here. Also, Heerlen
604-675: A centre of fierce fighting in the Battle of the Bulge . In 1949, the left tower of the St Nikolaus Church burnt down. The city centre was affected by flooding in 1953 . Eupen merged with the municipality of Kettenis in 1976, amidst protest from that town. In 1980, following a state reform ten years earlier, the German-Speaking Community of Belgium was established and Eupen was named as its capital. Eupen has
755-582: A certain amount of money. These could be used to get a 5% rebate or later that year (in November) used as normal cash for purchases. Some of these were made in silver and kept as a curiosity. After the Second World War the business continued to flourish. In 1949, it had 300 employees. The coalmines, which were at the heart of the reconstruction of the Netherlands after the war, made Heerlen
906-470: A cohesive design. When a designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile (or muslin), they will consult a professional pattern maker who will then create the finished, working version of the pattern out of cardboard or using a computer program. Finally, a sample garment is made up and tested on a model to make sure it is an operational outfit. Fashion design is expressive, the designers create art that may be functional or non-functional. Technology
1057-458: A connection in Groningen . The sale of herbs by Anna was also abandoned when they moved into the new shop, possibly because this business was taken over by friar Aloysius. In 1893/1894, the new shop was torn down and rebuilt, extending it further to the back, joining it with other buildings Schunck had bought. A novelty was the use of concrete and shopping windows, 2 by 3 m, quite a sensation at
1208-423: A cool oceanic climate with some continental influences due to it being elevated in comparison to most of Belgium. Eupen is also wetter and cloudier than Liège in the valley to the west, as a result of orographic lift due to the elevation change. As a result of this along with frequent winter frosts, Eupen gets a significant snowfall amount by Belgian standards. It also gets 16 ice days on average each year, as in
1359-481: A few jobs as a handweaver and he never got to work in a mechanised weaving factory because the owners of these modern factories had little respect for the traditional 'Wanderburschen'. As a result, from then on, he always stuck to handweaving. He returned to Kettenis to work with his father. His brother Nicola, however, who had also struck out on his own in 1858, had switched to mechanised weaving, working in Aachen at
1510-416: A garment by creating visual interest for consumers. Fashion designers work in various ways, some start with a vision in their head and later move into drawing it on paper or on a computer, while others go directly into draping fabric onto a dress form, also known as a mannequin. The design process is unique to the designer and it is rather intriguing to see the various steps that go into the process. Designing
1661-433: A garment starts with patternmaking . The process begins with creating a sloper or base pattern. The sloper will fit the size of the model a designer is working with or a base can be made by utilizing standard size charting. Three major manipulations within patternmaking include dart manipulation, contouring, and added fullness. Dart manipulation allows for a dart to be moved on a garment in various places but does not change
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#17327729036721812-496: A large percentage of luxury designers and brands. Fashion today is a global industry, and most major countries have a fashion industry. Seven countries have established an international reputation in fashion: the United States , France , Italy , United Kingdom , Japan , Germany and Belgium . The "big four" fashion capitals of the fashion industry are New York City , Paris , Milan , and London . The United States
1963-455: A long time to decide, Arnold's old plans to go to either Russia (where his brothers were) or New Orleans in the USA were reconsidered. Anna didn't like the former because of Wilhelm's stories of hard work and inexperienced colleagues. But New Orleans appealed to her because according to an old Wanderbursche-friend of Arnold, Joseph Kops, who had emigrated there, there was a great need for artisans in
2114-459: A madman could put up a building like that during a depression. It is a foolhardy undertaking". In keeping with this line of thinking, the working week in the State Mines was reduced from six to four days. But Schunck's reasoning was the exact opposite. His reply was that this was exactly the right time for such an enterprise because the demand for employment was high, so labour was cheap. And it
2265-466: A marl and limestone quarry (because of the cement shortages in the war) and a company named the 'Meerssener Kalkwerken' (lime). He was also shareholder and secretary of the insurance company NV Heerlensche Glasverzekering-Maatschappij. Several of the businesses that were not part of the core business were sold after the First World War because they often turned out not to be profitable. (Later, in
2416-515: A maximum height of 1.60 m, so one could oversee the entire floor from any position. The collection of returnable bottles took place at the entrance of the supermarket. And the corridors (2–3 m), escalators and stairs were made extra wide. However, an attempt was made to let Schunck remain Schunck, a regional family business, focusing on quality and service. A major difference with the Glaspaleis
2567-510: A mere year and a half to construct, is 4 times bigger than the Glaspaleis, not in height but in surface area. The 10 escalators have a capacity of 10,000 people per hour. The building had cost around ten million gulden and was the largest store and one of the largest business buildings in the south of the Netherlands. As with the Glaspaleis, people also said of this new building that it was a foolhardy undertaking. The shopping capacity of Heerlen had grown to be much greater than one would expect from
2718-416: A monorail, suspended from the ceiling. This, combined with automated weighing and packaging machines (with a capacity of 10,000 packages of meat per day and shrink-wrap for fruit) meant that the food did not need to be touched by human hands, which had its advantages for hygiene. Nevertheless, there were constantly 7 butchers at work. Self-service was becoming the standard in shops, which was also reflected in
2869-504: A more casual style, reflecting the athletic , health-conscious lifestyles of the suburban and urban middle classes. The annual Met Gala ceremony in Manhattan is widely regarded as the world's most prestigious haute couture fashion event and is a venue where fashion designers and their creations are celebrated. Social media is also a place where fashion is presented most often. Some influencers are paid huge amounts of money to promote
3020-670: A part of a design team. Freelance designers who work for themselves sell their designs to fashion houses, directly to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. There are quite a few fashion designers who choose to set up their labels, which offers them full control over their designs. Others are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-end fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-end fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men's, women's, and children's fashions for
3171-410: A patisserie with its own bakery (all self-service, except for the bonbons, which had to be weighed). The souterrain housed a 2600 m supermarket, with 7000 items on sale and an assortment ranging from Russian caviar to 70 types of cheese. Extra efficiency was achieved at the seven checkout counters by using two trolleys (and no conveyor belt). A cashier would move the items from one trolley to the other and
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#17327729036723322-414: A period known as Fashion Week . This takes place on a citywide basis and occurs twice a year. The main seasons of Fashion Week include; spring/summer, fall/winter, resort, swim, and bridal. Half-way garments are an alternative to ready-to-wear, "off-the-peg", or prêt-à-porter fashion. Half-way garments are intentionally unfinished pieces of clothing that encourage co-design between the "primary designer" of
3473-1226: A product or clothing item, where the business hopes many viewers will buy the product off the back of the advertisement. Instagram is the most popular platform for advertising, but Facebook, Snapchat, Twitter and other platforms are also used. In New York, the LGBT fashion design community contributes very significantly to promulgating fashion trends, and drag celebrities have developed a profound influence upon New York Fashion Week . Prominent American brands and designers include Calvin Klein , Ralph Lauren , Coach , Nike , Vans , Marc Jacobs , Tommy Hilfiger , DKNY , Tom Ford , Caswell-Massey , Michael Kors , Levi Strauss and Co. , Estée Lauder , Revlon , Kate Spade , Alexander Wang , Vera Wang , Victoria's Secret , Tiffany and Co. , Converse , Oscar de la Renta , John Varvatos , Anna Sui , Prabal Gurung , Bill Blass , Halston , Carhartt , Brooks Brothers , Stuart Weitzman , Diane von Furstenberg , J. Crew , American Eagle Outfitters , Steve Madden , Abercrombie and Fitch , Juicy Couture , Thom Browne , Guess , Supreme , and The Timberland Company . In
3624-539: A roof terrace for the public. At the time it was (apart from the church tower) the tallest building in Heerlen (it was even called a 'skyscraper' in a 1949 newspaper article, even though it was 'only' 27 m high), and from the penthouse the Schunck family could see Aachen , 20 km away, burn at the end of World War II . Because of its modernity it scared some people off, such as farmers, who were good customers (buying cloth in large batches to make their own clothes). So
3775-404: A schedule, effectively providing Heerlen with its first regional public transportation . These were kept running for half a century. The city would only buy its own two buses in 1923, and then only for the immediate vicinity of the city. A major boost for the region was the accelerated development of the coal mines when the national government stepped in where private enterprise had failed due to
3926-543: A season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their versions of the original look. To save money and time, they use cheaper fabrics and simpler production techniques which can easily be done by machines. The end product can, therefore, be sold much more cheaply. There is a type of design called "kutch" originated from the German word kitschig , meaning "trashy" or "not aesthetically pleasing". Kitsch can also refer to "wearing or displaying something that
4077-707: A significant movement, as it informed the large cities, such as Mexico City, of European fashions. This encouraged the founding of department stores, changing the existent pace of fashion. With access to European fashion and dress, those with high social status relied on adopting those elements to distinguish themselves from the rest. Juana Catarina Romero was a successful entrepreneur and pioneer in this movement. Eupen Eupen ( German: [ˈɔʏpn̩] , French: [øpɛn] , Dutch: [ˈøːpə(n)] ; Ripuarian : Ööpe [ˈøːpə] ; Walloon : Neyåw [nɛjɑːw] ; former French : Néau [neo] )
4228-444: A small farm next to a brook (the then still clean Caumerbeek) in nearby Schandelen where Arnold could clean the wool he bought from the sheepfarmers. Apart from three looms for woollen clothing he had a fourth for a sturdy cloth called 'thirty' (used for farmer's clothing and sturdy skirts) . After starting with the aforementioned orphans, Schunck later hired more weavers (first Mosterd and later Merckelbach and Huub Koolen). But due to
4379-470: A spa town. Records show that a weaver named 'Schunck' was established as early as 1776. His eldest son, Nikolaus Severin Schunck (1799–1865), had six sons, of whom the third oldest, Arnold, would later found the firm in Heerlen. The youngest son, Joseph, remained at the weaving mill and there is still a weaving mill in Kettenis run by descendants of Nikolaus. The company became the famous Schunck . After
4530-486: A stigma on Chinese brands. Due to government censorship, Chinese citizens were only able to access fashion magazines in the 1990s. However, as more and more Chinese designers matriculate from the world's top fashion schools, Chinese designers such as Shushu/Tong and Rui Zhou have made their way into the world's top fashion weeks, and Shanghai has become a fashion hub in China. In the early 2020s, Gen Z shoppers pioneered
4681-641: A street was to be named 'Peter Schunckstraat'. In 1967 it was decided that was to be in the new suburb Bautscherveld-De Rukker (located halfway between Heerlen and nearby Kerkrade ). The street sign was placed even before building had started. In 1966, Schunck bought the adjoining Neerlandia cinema (which was rented out to the Hirschberg-concern) and in the same complex Lindor Lingerie and the Promenade Restaurant (both also rented out). Fashion house Fashion designers work in
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4832-586: A textile factory and a cloth and spice shop in the Willemstraat ('op d'r Schramm', later housing a branch of grocery chain Edah ) they had the good fortune that the coal mining industry was on the rise and Arnold realised that those miners needed a constant supply of sturdy clothing. In March of that same year, 1874, there had been some prospecting for coal (by v.d.Slik & Co from Dordrecht ) and there were many requests for concessions between 1872 and 1880, so it
4983-418: A town this size. As mayor Gijzels pointed out during the opening ceremonies, Heerlen now had the largest department store capacity per number of inhabitants in the country. (Conversely, the number of specialty shops was, at one per 77 inhabitants, actually much lower than the national average of one per 59.) But Leo Schunck said that it was a matter of trust in the future of the region. He pointed out that Heerlen
5134-479: A variety of ways when designing their pieces and accessories such as rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings. Due to the time required to put a garment out on the market, designers must anticipate changes to consumer desires . Fashion designers are responsible for creating looks for individual garments, involving shape, color, fabric, trimming, and more. Fashion designers attempt to design clothes that are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. They consider who
5285-755: A year in February and September. Milan Fashion week puts fashion in the spotlight and celebrates it in the heart of Milan with fashion lovers, buyers and media. Most Japanese fashion houses are in Tokyo which is home to Tokyo Fashion Week , Asia's largest fashion week. The Japanese look is loose and unstructured (often resulting from complicated cutting), colors tend to the sombre and subtle, and richly textured fabrics. Famous Japanese designers include Kenzo Takada , Issey Miyake , Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo . Chinese clothing has historically been associated with lower quality both inside and outside China, leading to
5436-416: A year later, another useful experience richer. When father Nikolaus Schunck died in 1865 (of ' dust lungs ', a typical weavers affliction), Severin-Joseph, who was to take over the business, wanted to mechanise, but didn't have the financial means to do so. There were assets (house, looms) but little cash. So when in 1986 Wilhelm returned from Russia to get married, the brothers decided to leave Severin-Joseph
5587-471: Is "the study and knowledge of the practical, especially industrial, use of scientific discoveries". Technology within fashion has broadened the industry and allowed for faster production processes. Over the years, there has been an increase in the use of technology within Fashion Design as it offers new platforms for creativity. Technology is constantly changing and there have been innovations within
5738-557: Is 103.74 km (40.05 sq mi) which gives a population density of 175.90 inhabitants per km . Eupen and the St. Nikolaus Chapel were first mentioned in 1213 as part of the Duchy of Limburg . In 1288, after the Battle of Worringen , the Duchy of Limburg was annexed by John I of Brabant . Brabant and Limburg were inherited by Burgundy in 1387, and Eupen was burnt to the ground during
5889-441: Is 4 times per hour, except in the lunchroom and kitchen, where it is eight respectively eighteen times per hour (and not cooled). In total, every hour 304,000 m of air is transported through 3.5 km of ducts. The main entrance has an 'air curtain' with a capacity of 63,000 m per hour. The building borders on streets on three sides, with an entrance on each street and featuring 340 m of shopping window space. These were used during
6040-567: Is 7,820 based on employment. The lowest employment is within Apparel Knitting Mills at .46% of the industry employed, which averages to 30 workers within the specific specialty. In 2016, 23,800 people were counted as fashion designers in the United States. Geographically, the largest employment state of Fashion designers is New York with an employment of 7,930. New York is considered a hub for fashion designers due to
6191-420: Is a new means of communication for designers and allows ideas to flow. Designers are provided with a space to also create more professional and industry standard specifications such as technical flats and tech packs. Software such as Browzwear, Clo3D, and Optitex aid designers in the product development stage. Virtual reality has allowed a new way to prototype clothing to originally see designers. This eliminates
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6342-425: Is a wedge that is bordered by Germany and Belgium, with Heerlen at its tip, even more customers could be attracted. But that unification process was to take place only decades later, shortly after the firm had ceased to exist, as a result of a treaty in nearby Maastricht. Several authorities, including the minister of Economic Affairs Andriessen, had assured, or at least insinuated, that the continued exploitation of
6493-531: Is considered one of the premier fashion events in the country. Lakme Fashion Week in India takes place twice a year and is held in the populous city of Mumbai. The first show occurs during April featuring summer collections. The second show takes place in August to showcase the winter collection. Lakme , a cosmetic brand for Indian women, hosts the event. This fashion week started in 1999 and originally partnered with
6644-416: Is considered one of the top fashion schools in the world. There are numerous fashion magazines published in the United States and distributed to a global readership. Examples include Vogue , Harper's Bazaar , and Cosmopolitan . American fashion design is highly diverse, reflecting the enormous ethnic diversity of the population, but is largely dominated by a clean-cut, urban, hip aesthetic, and often favors
6795-643: Is home to the largest, wealthiest, and most multi-faceted fashion industry. Most fashion houses in the United States are based in New York City , with a high concentration centered in the Garment District neighborhood. On the US west coast, there is also to a lesser extent a significant number of fashion houses in Los Angeles , where a substantial percentage of high fashion clothing manufactured in
6946-409: Is likely to wear a garment and the situations in which it will be worn, and they work with a wide range of materials, colors, patterns , and styles. Though most clothing worn for everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual garments are usually sought for special occasions such as evening wear or party dresses . Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in
7097-417: Is made of marble, interspaced with horizontal strips of lamps that are lit at night. This gives the building a very horizontal visual aspect. Here too, functionality was sought, with no unnecessary decoration, but without giving the building the 'cold' appearance that many new buildings of the time had. As with the Glaspaleis, the floors are supported by columns, interspaced 8 m, with the outer columns 2.5 m from
7248-414: Is named after its free-standing glass encasing on three sides (North, East and West), with natural ventilation thanks to the 50 cm gap between the floors and the glass, combined with the coordinated opening of certain windows. Not counting the two cellars, the building has eight floors, including a two-floor penthouse for the family with nine children (although only four ever actually lived there), with
7399-497: Is often considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first designer to have his label sewn into the garments that he created. Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris , clothing design and creation of the garments were handled largely by anonymous seamstresses. At the time high fashion descended from what was popularly worn at royal courts. Worth's success
7550-433: Is quite possible that Arnold had heard of these developments and based his decision to move here partly on the possibility of a rising industry. The mines would, however, only start up around 1900, so Arnold, who died in 1905, never experienced the growth of Heerlen they caused. Still, the business managed to flourish. One important reason for this was that despite Heerlen's small size (around 5000 inhabitants), it functioned as
7701-690: Is still a weaving mill in Kettenis run by descendants of Nikolaus. After his mother died in 1858, Arnold went to Eupen to learn the trade at P. Fremereij's factory, where he became a 'Meisterweber' (master weaver). The family disputes over whether traditional or mechanised (steam powered) weaving was the way of the future made Arnold decide to use his obligatory travels as a Wanderbusche (travelling apprentice) to decide for himself. From 17 April to 5 November 1860, he travelled (largely on foot) to Silesia (a centre for mechanical weaving), Mannheim , Munich, Nuremberg , Berlin and Hamburg , but this only resulted in
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#17327729036727852-414: Is that the outer wall is not made of glass. Apart from the top floors, there are even hardly any windows. The traditional natural light solution of having a large central hall, cutting through all the floors, with a glass roof, wasn't chosen either because that would take up too much (expensive) space. This means that almost all the light has to come from lamps. The outer wall (except for the two upper floors)
8003-505: Is the capital of French fashion . Traditionally, French fashion is chic and stylish, defined by its sophistication, cut, and smart accessories. French fashion is internationally acclaimed. Madrid and Barcelona are the main fashion centers in Spain. Spanish fashion is often more conservative and traditional but also more 'timeless' than other fashion cultures. Spaniards are known not to take great risks when dressing. Nonetheless, many of
8154-697: Is the capital of German-speaking Community of Belgium and is a city and municipality in the Belgian province of Liège , 15 kilometres (9 miles) from the German border ( Aachen ), from the Dutch border ( Maastricht ) and from the " High Fens " nature reserve ( Ardennes ). The town is also the capital of the Euroregion Meuse-Rhine . First mentioned in 1213 as belonging to the Duchy of Limburg , possession of Eupen passed to Brabant , Burgundy ,
8305-652: Is the centre of fashion in Germany (prominently displayed at Berlin Fashion Week ), while Düsseldorf holds Europe's largest fashion trade fairs with Igedo . Other important centres of the scene are Munich , Hamburg , and Cologne . German fashion is known for its elegant lines as well as unconventional young designs and the great variety of styles. Most of the Indian fashion houses are in Mumbai, Lakme Fashion Week
8456-529: Is therefore no longer in fashion". The median annual wages for salaried fashion designers was $ 79,290 in May 2023, approximately $ 38.12 per hour. The middle 50 percent earned an average of 76,700. The lowest 10 percent earned $ 37,090 and the highest 10 percent earned $ 160,850. The highest number of employment lies within Apparel , Piece Goods , and Notions Merchant Wholesalers with a percentage of 5.4. The average
8607-566: The FDCI , Fashion Design Council of India then later switched to a sponsorship with Lakme. Milan is Italy's fashion capital. Most of the older Italian couturiers are in Rome . However, Milan and Florence are the Italian fashion capitals, and it is the exhibition venue for their collections. Italian fashion features casual and glamorous elegance. In Italy, Milan Fashion Week takes place twice
8758-652: The First World War , the 1919 Treaty of Versailles transferred Eupen and the nearby municipality of Malmedy from Germany to Belgium. The effect led to the formation of National Socialist groups in Eupen. From 1938 the Vesdre Dam was constructed (completed in 1950), creating Lake Eupen . In 1940, Nazi Germany invaded Belgium; in an attempt to reverse Versailles, Eupen and Malmedy were annexed to Germany. In September 1944, American forces reached Eupen which became
8909-521: The Glaspaleis by Peter, who would still later start buying houses towards the south, until he owned the entire block in 1939. Although Arnold Schunck was the founder of the firm, his son Peter Schunck (* Hauset, 31 October 1873, † Heerlen 13 July 1960) is regarded as the embodiment of the firm and even of the modernisation of Heerlen in general. When Arnold Schunck died in 1905, his son Peter Schunck took over, although, as before, his mother kept playing an important role and three of his sisters helped out in
9060-575: The Holy Roman Empire and France before being given in 1815 to Prussia , which became part of the new German Empire in 1871. In 1919, after the First World War , the Treaty of Versailles transferred Eupen and the nearby municipality of Malmedy from Germany to Belgium. German remains the official language in Eupen (also spoken in the form of the Eupen dialect ), and the city serves as
9211-779: The Treaty of Utrecht , Brabant and Limburg were returned to the Austrian Habsburgs. Revolutionary France took the city in 1794, incorporating it into the Département Ourthe , préfecture Liège and sous-préfecture Malmedy . Following the Congress of Vienna in 1815, Eupen became part of the Prussian Rhine Province . All Prussian possessions became part of the German Empire in 1871, while Eupen itself enjoyed its popularity as
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#17327729036729362-422: The guochao ( Chinese : 国潮 ; pinyin : Guó cháo ) movement , a trend of preferring homegrown designers which incorporate aspects of Chinese history and culture. Hong Kong clothing brand Shanghai Tang 's design concept is inspired by Chinese clothing and set out to rejuvenate Chinese fashion of the 1920s and 30s, with a modern twist of the 21st century and its usage of bright colours. Additionally,
9513-435: The "fabric, shape and construction of a people's clothing". Textiles were created from plant fibers including cotton and agave. Class status differentiated what fabric was worn. Mexican dress was influenced by geometric shapes to create the silhouettes. Huipil a blouse characterized by a "loose, sleeveless tunic made of two or three joined webs of cloth sewn lengthwise" is an important historical garment, often seen today. After
9664-458: The 1950s, fashion clothing was predominately designed and manufactured on a made-to-measure or haute couture basis ( French for high-sewing), with each garment being created for a specific client. A couture garment is made to order for an individual customer, and is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric, sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Look and fit take priority over
9815-420: The 1970s, such diversifications almost caused the family to lose the company.) One company that was not meant to be directly profitable, but which aided the core business was the 'Zuid-Limburgsche Autobus Maatschappij', which by 1908 already owned three buses (on solid wheels), to transport customers for free from surrounding towns and Sittard and Valkenburg to the department store three to four times per day on
9966-636: The Delius textile factory (as overseer), which had important international connections. He was persuaded by Russian entrepreneurs to set up a weaving factory in Białystok in Russia (now Poland), a major centre of the textile industry at the crossroads of the important St Petersburg – Berlin and Königsberg – Odessa roads. So he went there in 1863 with Wilhelm, the second oldest son. Later that year, Arnold followed, but only to accompany Nicola's wife, and returned
10117-506: The German-speaking part of Belgium, records show that a weaver (Tuchmacher) named 'Schunck' was established as early as 1776. His eldest son, Nikolaus Severin Schunck (1799–1865), had six sons (and one daughter), of whom the third oldest, Arnold, would later found the firm in Heerlen. Because business was slow, only the one but youngest, Joseph, would remain in the weaving mill. But he appears to have survived, because to this day there
10268-567: The Glaspaleis because it was growing much too small for the amount of business it saw. To the South, at the Emmaplein, connecting to the Glaspaleis (though the old shop) and housing the administration in a former bank. To the East, former Hotel Cloot, where Arnold Schunck stayed when he decided to set up shop in Heerlen, and which now housed Schunck's baby shop. Schunck had bought these to expand around
10419-624: The Glaspaleis because. But the city had plans to start a shopping centre to the West, at the new Promenade and convinced Schunck to build there instead. And finally to the North, two more former hotels had been bought and renovated, first the former Limburgia Hotel, at the opposite side of the Bongerd, and then the former Neerlandia Hotel at the Saroleastraat, which now housed the 'Market Halls'. At
10570-549: The Glaspaleis fared after that, see Glaspaleis#Decay and renovation . Ironically, when Schunck had finally achieved the goals of buying Logister's old shop and getting the passage, the City started a new project to the west, the Promenade and persuaded Schunck to expand there instead (see below). In 1940, Peter Schunck set up a clothing factory in Heerlen at Geleenstraat 73 in a former mill (and consequently named 'De Molen') under
10721-399: The Glaspaleis, V&D tried to hamper those efforts too, resulting in a long-lasting court case over the ownership of the sewer and former canal under it (both the Bongerd and Emma square used to be waterways). Schunck finally won this in 1961. When shortly after that the houses to the south (including the old shop) were torn down, the Glaspaleis became completely free standing. For more on how
10872-515: The Kerkplein (Church Square) in 1882. This was a much more strategic location because the market was held at the Church Square. The looms were brought along and remained in service for another 6 years until rector Savelberg called back the orphans for internal affairs at the monastery, after which the commercial weaving was abandoned altogether. The shop did so well that the clothes production could not keep up and Schunck started buying clothes through
11023-526: The Limburgia Hotel, a shop had been opened for mattresses and blankets. This merchandise was now moved to the Glaspaleis. This freed it up for renovation, merging it with the Market Hall, which would be turned into a self-service discount textile shop. Now that Schunck was going to move to a new building, several of Schunck's buildings around the Glaspaleis, plus many other buildings, including
11174-741: The Spanish Conquest, traditional Mexican clothing shifted to take a Spanish resemblance. Mexican indigenous groups rely on specific embroidery and colors to differentiate themselves from each other. Mexican Pink is a significant color to the identity of Mexican art and design and general spirit. The term "Rosa Mexicano" as described by Ramón Valdiosera was established by prominent figures such as Dolores del Río and designer Ramón Val in New York. When newspapers and magazines such as El Imparcial and El Mundo Ilustrado circulated in Mexico, became
11325-468: The Sunday market. Some came to the shop only once or twice a year, with carts that were loaded full of cloth, which the farmer's wife would then make clothes out of (ready-made clothes were rare at the time). At first the children helped out selling in the shop, but by 1900 that didn't suffice and for the first time sales personnel was hired (resident, as usual at the time). In 1903, just before Arnold's death,
11476-531: The Union of International Architects. The business grew from a small weaver's shop to the major department store in Heerlen and the innovating force in that town when coal mining declined. Over more than a century, it has been run by four consecutive generations of the family Schunck. In current time, the Glaspaleis is a multidisciplinary cultural centre for contemporary art, architecture, music, dance and library named SCHUNCK. In Eupen - Kettenis (or Kettenich) in
11627-560: The United States is actually made. Miami has also emerged as a new fashion hub, especially in regards to swimwear and other beach-oriented fashion. A semi-annual event held every February and September, New York Fashion Week is the oldest of the four major fashion weeks held throughout the world. Parsons The New School for Design , located in the Greenwich Village neighborhood of Lower Manhattan in New York City,
11778-475: The United States. In May they had even already started informing about the price of such a trip (cheapest option 160 Belgian Francs per adult plus 15 GFrancs for the baby) when word finally came from rector Savelberg. So in August 1874 they went from Hauset to Heerlen with three looms and some cloth. Although Heerlen is only 35 km North from Kettenis, transportation in those days wasn't much different from mediaeval times (largely by stage coach or on foot). So
11929-654: The brothers went to the St Joseph market in Sittard with samples of the cloth to try to sell it, but were unsuccessful due to the competition from the Belgian Vesdre-manufacturers. Following Anna's advice, they returned via Heerlen, to speak to the rector of the orphanage, monseigneur Savelberg . (They stayed at well-known Hotel Cloot at the corner of Bongerd and Emmastraat – Arnold's son Peter would later marry Christine Cloot.) Since Savelberg took
12080-406: The business grew, Peter started looking for ways to expand even more and in 1927, commissioned architect Henri Dassen to design a temporary wooden annex at the market square. This was not implemented, but both Arnold and Peter had been buying land and houses between the shop and the market square. This included the so-called 'dirty corner' ('vuil hoekje') at the corner of Bongerd and Church Square, and
12231-487: The business too. The business already had 60 employees and thanks to Peter's sense of business it kept expanding (300 employees in 1950 and 600 in 1960, the year he died), despite two world wars. A much quoted story to illustrate his business sense is that, when he was just a schoolboy, on one morning he sold 25 smocks. Apart from the clothes shop, he also had several other businesses, such as a steam laundry in Valkenburg,
12382-758: The capital for Belgium's German-speaking Community . The city has a small university, the Autonome Hochschule Ostbelgien [ de ; nl ] , offering bachelor's degrees in Education and Nursing. In 2010, Eupen's association football team, K.A.S. Eupen , became the first club from the German-speaking Community to play in the Belgian Pro League . On 1 January 2006, Eupen had a total population of 18,248 (8,892 males and 9,356 females). The total area
12533-529: The capital of the United Kingdom fashion industry and has a wide range of foreign designs which have integrated with modern British styles. Typical British design is smart but innovative yet recently has become more and more unconventional, fusing traditional styles with modern techniques. Vintage styles play an important role in the British fashion and styling industry. Stylists regularly 'mix and match'
12684-413: The case of haute couture or bespoke tailoring . Today, most clothing is designed for the mass market , especially casual and everyday wear, which are commonly known as ready to wear or fast fashion . There are different lines of work for designers in the fashion industry. Fashion designers who work full-time for a fashion house, as 'in-house designers', own the designs and may either work alone or as
12835-401: The city had been complaining for five years that it needed to be cleaned up. When the surrounding fence blew over in a storm in 1932, exposing the dirty corner, the City gave Peter an ultimatum; build something or have it disowned. Thus, the decision to build was speeded up, resulting in the Glaspaleis ('Glass Palace' or 'Crystal Palace') in 1935, a very modern building, certainly for Heerlen at
12986-476: The cloth. From pharmacist Knittel (a distant relative) in Vaals they heard that a new orphanage in Heerlen ('het St Jozephsgesticht') could do with someone to teach the orphans a trade like weaving. This pharmacist also bought his herbs from Heerlen and since Anna had worked at her father's gardening business she figured she could also package and sell medicinal herbs and could take over that business. In March 1874,
13137-411: The company for 25 years and operated as de facto manager, dealing with every aspect of the business. Peter Schunck wanted his oldest son Pierre to take over the business, but Pierre was more interested in technology than business. So when Peter Schunck died in 1960 at the age of 86, the business, which by then had 600 employees, was in name taken over by the second son Leo. In the 1930s, he had been head of
13288-580: The cost of materials and the time it takes to make. Due to the high cost of each garment, haute couture makes little direct profit for the fashion houses, but is important for prestige and publicity. Ready-to-wear, or prêt-à-porter, clothes are a cross between haute couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity, so they are rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during
13439-510: The currency that Schunck had its cash in. When that changed after the war and the mark (now Papiermark , paper mark) became virtually worthless, Schunck's assets were largely gone. But Peter Schunck survived. By the end of the 1920s, the business was profitable again, and very much so, despite competition from V&D and Hollekamp. he started buying houses again, such as a bed and carpet shop in 1929 (later to be owned by his daughter Leonie and renamed first Käller-Schunck and then Hiero ). While
13590-433: The customer could then take that to one of the 53 'packaging tables' (with assistance for those who desired it), thus reducing waiting time at the counter. The region is known for its high demand for quality meat. The butchery in the supermarket had a total counter length of 45 m, and a freezer with a capacity of 10.000 kg of meat. This and the other cooled storage rooms (e.g., for fruit and dairy products) were serviced by
13741-496: The day staying below 0 °C (32 °F), along with 71 frost days. K.A.S. Eupen , founded in 1945, is the city's main association football club and play at the 8,000-capacity Kehrwegstadion . In 2010, after winning a play-off, the side became the first club from the German-speaking Community to reach the country's top flight, then known as the Belgian Pro League. They were relegated after one season, returning to
13892-522: The entire block to the south of the Glaspaleis, were going to be torn down to create parking space and 'breathing room' for the Pancratius Church. As a result of this, the Glaspaleis would become completely free-standing (however, later, the space created to the east would be built up again). The Schunck buildings that were to be torn down were, to the south: and between the Bongerd and the Church Square, several buildings bought after 1945: Of
14043-648: The exorbitant price of 2,000,000 guilders. At that point, Schunck owned the entire block and was planning further expansion there. Another long-lasting dispute arose over the space between the Schunck-block and V&D, where both Schunck and the City wanted to make a passage, connecting the Emma square and Bongerd. The city had agreed to this after Schunck offered to pay for it. V&D had also taken it into account when it built its store and talks between Schunck and V&D were initially fruitful, but when Schunck built
14194-424: The fact that at the curtain stand customers could themselves pull out the curtains to inspect them. Apparently, this was not obvious at the time. The new store was set up as a collection of specialty shops. As with the Glaspaleis, functionality was a major issue, so the layout of the floors was such that people would easily find what they were looking for. For example, in the supermarket the displays ('gondola's') had
14345-483: The fashion brands and designers coming from Spain. The most notable luxury houses are Loewe and Balenciaga . Famous designers include Manolo Blahnik , Elio Berhanyer , Cristóbal Balenciaga , Paco Rabanne , Adolfo Domínguez , Manuel Pertegaz , Jesús del Pozo , Felipe Varela and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada . Spain is also home to large fashion brands such as Zara , Massimo Dutti , Bershka , Pull&Bear , Mango , Desigual , Pepe Jeans and Camper . Berlin
14496-647: The firm buying clothes shop chain Wassen , with three shops in the Holland region (Amsterdam, The Hague and Rotterdam) and in 1948 Peter's oldest son Pierre had started a clothes factory on the Caribbean island Bonaire (see under 'Spin-offs' below). But the biggest change took place in Heerlen. In 1964 the main store moved to another, huge, building at the newly established Promenade (see next section). The Glaspaleis became specialised in interior decoration textiles. In
14647-549: The first time in the town. In 1582, during the Dutch Revolt against the Spanish Habsburgs, rebels burnt Eupen but did not take control of it. Bubonic plague reached Eupen in 1635, with devastating consequences. Eupen obtained its own court of law in 1648, and in 1674 received city rights , giving it greater recognition and autonomy. Six years later, textile manufacture was introduced to the city. In 1713, with
14798-455: The focus of the firm remained clothing for the miners, much attention was also given to the other end of the market, classy clothing. Quality remained a major goal for both, with the house-brand Lion's Quality (in English) and the slogan Kwaliteit wint altijd ( Quality always wins ). In the 1930s, the workshops were closed and Schunck changed completely to clothes manufactured by others. As
14949-495: The garment, and what would usually be considered, the passive "consumer". This differs from ready-to-wear fashion, as the consumer is able to participate in the process of making and co-designing their clothing. During the Make{able} workshop, Hirscher and Niinimaki found that personal involvement in the garment-making process created a meaningful "narrative" for the user, which established a person-product attachment and increased
15100-537: The general public did not have ready access to pre-made fashion. Most of the Swiss fashion houses are in Zürich . The Swiss look is casual elegant and luxurious with a slight touch of quirkiness. Additionally, it has been greatly influenced by the dance club scene. In the development of Mexican indigenous dress, the fabrication was determined by the materials and resources that are available in specific regions, impacting
15251-502: The huge long-term investments that are required for the development of mines. The Dutch government was afraid that the Netherlands would become too dependent on foreign (German) energy sources and bought all still unsold concessions in 1901. This led to the establishment of the State Mines , which caused a fivefold increase of the population of Heerlen in 30 years. During World War I cloth became scarce and prices soared. Right after
15402-518: The images were shown to clients to gain approval, which saved time and money for the designer. If the client liked their design, the patrons commissioned the garment from the designer, and it was produced for the client in the fashion house. This designer-patron construct launched designers sketching their work rather than putting the completed designs on models. Garments produced by clothing manufacturers fall into three main categories, although these may be split up into additional, different types. Until
15553-453: The industrial hub of the region. In the 1950s the miners were relatively well paid (considering normal workers wages of the time) and Schunck consequently made a separate section for miners' clothing, where the 'koempels' (miners) could spend their clothing coupons. Advertisements specifically targeted the miners, also with the slogan 'Kwaliteit wint altijd' ('quality always wins'), despite the suggestion of upper class (who were also targeted with
15704-503: The industry. 3D printing allows a larger area of personalized products and widening originality. Iris van Herpen , a Dutch designer, has showcased the incorporation of 3D printing as her Crystallization used 3D printing for the first time on a runway. The innovation has re-shaped the fashion industry and creates a new area of creativity. Apps and software have increasingly changed how designers can use technology to create. Adobe Creative Cloud , specifically Photoshop and Illustrator ,
15855-429: The inheritance. (Note that the brothers had rights to the entire inheritance because they had been working at the mill for years without pay.) Severin-Joseph no longer needed the handlooms now, so in return the other brothers would receive one of the hand-weaving looms each (quite literally heirlooms ) and five years later they would additionally receive 1000 Rheinische Thaler and cloth woven by Severin-Joseph. Luckily,
16006-538: The last bombing that lasted until 1949. After the war, the Glaspaleis was also used to sell 'relief clothing' at cost. To celebrate the 75-year existence in 1949, Schunck gave a fireworks display the likes of which Heerlen had never seen before, visited by tens of thousands from all over the region. Special anniversary coins of 100, 50 and 25 cents were made at the Mint in Utrecht, to be distributed among customers who spent
16157-593: The late 1980s and early 1990s, Belgian fashion designers brought a new fashion image that mixed East and West, and brought a highly individualised, personal vision on fashion. Well known Belgian designers are the Antwerp Six : Ann Demeulemeester , Dries Van Noten , Dirk Bikkembergs , Dirk Van Saene , Walter Van Beirendonck and Marina Yee, as well as Martin Margiela , Raf Simons , Kris Van Assche , Bruno Pieters , Anthony Vaccarello . London has long been
16308-511: The legal status changed to a general partnership , known as the Firma Schunck (later a Naamloze Vennootschap ). This way, the children that worked in the shop could share in the profits. Another reason was that two daughters were to become nuns and this legal construct avoided their convents sharing in the inheritance. Being more of an artisan than a businessman, Arnold developed new types of cloth in his later years, even though weaving
16459-524: The main store, 125 in Geleen, and almost 1000 in total. On 16 September of that year Schunck expanded even further, when the main store moved to an even bigger building in Heerlen, about 100 m to the west of the Glaspaleis , at the Promenade, a big new project of the city, creating the largest metropolitan shopping boulevard in the south of the Netherlands. The opening attracted around 5000 visitors, causing local traffic delays. The huge new building, which took
16610-430: The mass market. Large designer brands that have a 'name' as their brand such as Abercrombie & Fitch , Justice , or Juicy are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a design director. Garment design includes components of "color, texture, space, lines, pattern, silhouette, shape, proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm, and harmony". All of these elements come together to design
16761-432: The material of a garment. Material innovation creates a new way for fibers to be re-imagined or for new materials to be constructed. This overall aids in functional and aesthetic purposes for the designer. The material technology has been used with brands such as Werewool and Bananatex . These brands innovate the way designers can construct their garments and provide new materials to be used. Modern Western fashion design
16912-524: The mines was guaranteed. However, in 1965, many were already operating at a loss and from 1966 to 1974, they would all be closed, which would have its impact on all businesses, including Schunck. For the new store (as with the Glaspaleis) inspiration was sought throughout Europe, including visits to the US and Sweden (especially the redevelopment of the Stockholm city centre and its effect on shopping
17063-487: The name Schunck's Kleding Industrie Limburg (SKIL). This factory focused on work clothes for the miners, but during the war also manufactured clothes for people in hiding and even had a Jewish manager, who lived in hiding in the attic. When World War II came, Peter saw he had a potential problem, still having German citizenship, which was not unusual in this city so close to the German border. So he quickly naturalised himself and his son Pierre to Dutch citizenship. During
17214-403: The need for a live model and fittings, which shortens the production process. 3D modeling within software allows for initial sampling and development stages for partnerships with suppliers before the garments are produced. Mock-ups of designs in the 3D modeling allows for problems to be solved before a final sample is made and sent to a manufacturer. Technology can also be used and aid within
17365-460: The new store, and not only in the setup of the supermarket. In the old shop (opposite the church), customers would tell the personnel what they wanted, who would then show them examples. In the Glaspaleis, all goods were out in the open, so customers could browse for themselves. In the new store, this was taken one step further. In keeping with the rising individualism, personnel was instructed to only assist people when asked. And Schunck even advertised
17516-490: The official opening as Modehuis Schunck ('Fashion house Schunck') took place on 31 May 1935, but it was soon nicknamed Glaspaleis , which is now the official name. During the opening, which drew 2000 visitors, the personnel offered a bust of Arnold Schunck. (In 1949, for the 75-year anniversary, they would offer another bust, of Peter Schunck.) Peter Schunck stressed that this was not a warehouse, because Schunck would stick to its core business and not introduce new products (as
17667-457: The old shop was kept open for them and their business went on as usual, with the shopkeeper fetching cloth 'from the back', except that now it often came not from the back but from the Glaspaleis. A problem arose when Peter was buying the few houses at the planned location for the Glaspaleis at the 'Bongerd' (the market square). Department store chain V&;D , which had opened a store right next to
17818-557: The old with the new, which gives British style a unique, bohemian aesthetic. Irish fashion (both design and styling) is also heavily influenced by fashion trends from Britain. Well-known British designers include Thomas Burberry , Alfred Dunhill , Paul Smith , Vivienne Westwood , Stella McCartney , Jimmy Choo , John Galliano , John Richmond , Alexander McQueen , Matthew Williamson , Gareth Pugh , Hussein Chalayan and Neil Barrett . Most French fashion houses are in Paris , which
17969-537: The opening to display Roman artefacts, to illustrate the theme of the opening, the Romans, for whom Heerlen was a major settlement (Coriovallum) at an important crossroads. As a result, Heerlen was the major archeological site for Roman artefacts in the region. The idea for this theme came from drs van Hommerich, the City Archivist, an expert on the subject. In his speech at the opening, the mayor announced that
18120-414: The outer wall. The roof of the top floor is steel construction. The gross floor height is 4.15 m on all floors, with a net height of 3.3 m. The building is heated with city heating ('stadsverwarming'), using mostly heated air, with a capacity of 2.5 MW. Air conditioning in the souterrain has a capacity of 35,000 m per hour, meaning the air is refreshed (and cooled) six times per hour. For the other floors that
18271-456: The overall fit of the garment. Contouring allows for areas of a garment to fit closer to areas of the torso such as the bust or shoulders. Added fullness increases the length or width of a pattern to change the frame as well as fit of the garment. The fullness can be added on one side, unequal, or equally to the pattern. A designer may choose to work with certain apps that can help connect all their ideas together and expand their thoughts to create
18422-493: The penthouse (serviced by the family themselves), but now this was professionalised to a complete lunchroom for 180 people at the fourth floor. The other half of that floor featured toys and interior furnishings, also something that was already present at the Glaspaleis. Offices and the canteen were on the top floor. The new sections, however, were located at the two lowest floors. The ground floor featured merchandise like stationery (and many pocket books), perfume and suitcases and
18573-447: The problem that the inheritance was to be divided among eleven children. She asked her brothers and sisters to not cash in yet, but only the youngest two complied. On top of that, the State Mines closed in the 1960s, just when a big further expansion had been undertaken. Still, she had enough experience and business sense to let the business survive and even expand. By 1964, personnel size of the now 90-year-old firm had increased to 700 at
18724-474: The process the entrances were improved and the lifts renovated. It was kept in use by Schunck for a few years, but then rented out to the ABP state pension fund, that needed a temporary housing until its own was completed. In 1973, the Glaspaleis was sold. For details on how the Glaspaleis fared after that see Glaspaleis – Decay and Renovation . In the previous 2 decades, Schunck had already bought several houses around
18875-603: The products on sale). In 1953, a new shop was opened across the Bongerd, the Markthal (Market Hall), which was of a different type, with selfservice, a new phenomenon, and with bargain prices. In 1954 a new branch was opened in nearby Geleen (at the Rijksweg), the future industrial centre of the region when the Dutch State Mines ( DSM ) moved there as a petrochemical industry . Expansion reached even further, with
19026-457: The purchasing department and later he became a member of the board of the purchasing collective Faam in Amsterdam, of which Schunck would become the largest participant. Already in 1945 he had started acting as a director of the company. In practise, however, Schunck was largely taken over by Christine, who had more experience with running the business. Right at the start she was presented with
19177-415: The sentimental value of the final product. Otto von Busch also explores half-way garments and fashion co-design in his thesis, "Fashion-able, Hacktivism and engaged Fashion Design". Currently, the fashion industry relies more on mass-market sales. The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing ready-to-wear garments using trends set by the famous names in fashion. They often wait around
19328-572: The shares in NV Schunck, one third was owned by Chrisje Dohmen-Schunck, one third by Leo Schunck (these two formed the management) and the rest by other family members. By the company's 75'th birthday, in 1949, Peter Schunck (one year older than the firm) was still the managing director. In the board of directors were also Peter's second oldest son Leo Schunck and his daughter Christine's husband Frans Dohmnen (director since 1948/01/01). Christine ('Chrisje', 1907–?) herself had already been working for
19479-448: The shop. With success, despite stiff competition from eight textile businesses in nearby Aachen, which regularly advertised in the local newspaper 'Limburger Koerier'. So Anna had switched from selling herbs to selling cloth (later aided by the children) and Arnold had switched from weaving to buying cloth and clothes-manufacturing, decisions that proved to be fortunate. The shop moved to a bigger building (bought from pharmacist Knittel) at
19630-435: The site, to the West, five years earlier, bought one of the houses at the opposite (East) side of the location (Logister's umbrella shop) to hamper his efforts, but Peter solved this by simply building around it. V&D never made use of the house, which was located in between the old shop and the new Glaspaleis, leaving it to decay. It remained an eyesore until well after World War II. Schunck only managed to buy it in 1960, for
19781-592: The success, still later, Schunck started buying cloth (from Aachen and Mönchengladbach ) instead of weaving it all himself and ultimately he gave up commercial weaving altogether because a small handweaving business could not compete with the textile industry in Tilburg and Twente . So the planned weaving factory never really came off the ground. Instead, Arnold Schunck switched to clothes manufacturing (for which Eykeboom and Einerhand were hired), including ready-to-wear clothing (a novelty for Heerlen), and continued with
19932-405: The time and when at one time some mannequins stood there unclothed that caused a bit of a scandal. This shopping-window idea was taken to the extreme in the new building. The result was a structure of stacked and covered 'hanging' markets, protected against the elements by the free standing glass encasing. The idea was to create a stacked market, like the market in front of it, but protected against
20083-455: The time for such a rural town and a prelude of what was to come later (see Glaspaleis below). In 1903, another extension took place, and around 1910, the house next door (South side) was added to the shop (designed by architect Seelen Sr.). The location next to the market was ideal and the business kept growing. Especially good customers were the miners, as anticipated, but also farmers, who bought large batches of cloth and clothes when visiting
20234-536: The time, built entirely out of steel and concrete, with a freestanding glass encasing. Peter Schunck had visited several department stores throughout Europe to find inspiration. He was most inspired by the architecture of a department store in Nantes , France, 'Les Grands Magasins Decré' by Henri Sauvage (1932), and thus the building was built in Bauhaus -style by architect Frits Peutz . Work started on 14 May 1934 and
20385-461: The travelling distance was much greater than it is now. But the cultural distance was much smaller. Both Kettenis and Heerlen had been part of the Duchy of Limburg for centuries. The then borders between the Netherlands, Germany and Belgium had only recently been drawn (see Treaty of London, 1839 ) and regional sentiments were still much stronger than any national feelings. Limburgers still felt closer to nearby Germans than to Hollanders . The Duchy
20536-462: The unification of Germany in 1870 opened new markets, which gave such a boost to the economy that he could easily hold up his end of the bargain. In 1866, Arnold and his youngest brother Ludwig set up a business in Hauset (die Kupfermühle, a vacant copper mill at the river Geul ). Because they didn't have the thread to weave nor money to buy it, they decided to dye thread for the industry, but there
20687-579: The war Pierre Schunck was leader of the Valkenburg resistance (which he started). During the war bombs destroyed the glass windows three times, the last time at new year '44/'45, when the Glaspaleis served as headquarters for General Patton . It was later also used by the French resistance group the Maquis . The blemishes remained visible until years after the war. Each time the glass was replaced, but after
20838-640: The war against the Guelders . Burgundy was dissolved in 1477 by the Austrian Habsburgs who then inherited Eupen after gaining both Limburg and Brabant. Habsburg Holy Roman Emperor Charles V granted Eupen the privilege to conduct two markets per year in 1544. In 1555, both Brabant and Limburg were passed to the Spanish branch of the Habsburgs. Ten years later, Protestantism was mentioned for
20989-479: The war the market was so unstable that sometimes cloth bought for 12 Dutch gulden per metre had to be sold for only 7 gulden due to much better cloth imported from England. Stocks worth tens of thousands of gulden became worthless. Then, in the 1920s, prices plummeted due to stiff competition from nearby Germany, where the economy had collapsed, so some of that cloth bought at 12 gulden sold for no more than 80 cents. The German Mark had suffered an enormous inflation and
21140-480: The weather (at the time, traders at the market didn't even use covered stands – everything was just placed on the floor). For the arrangement of the displays, Alexander Ludwig , a famous window-dresser from Cologne , was hired. Also controversial was the idea to undertake a project of this scale during the Great Depression , which was criticised by the then Minister of Finance Verschuur, saying that "Only
21291-458: Was a good example because it was better adapted to the European situation). The new store wasn't just much bigger, but featured an extended assortment, a selection one would expect of a modern warehouse store. Clothing, Schunck's mainstay, was still dominant on floors 1 (children), 2 (ladies) and 3 (gents) (with 47 fitting rooms). In the Glaspaleis, customers were welcome to have a cup of coffee at
21442-404: Was a stimulus to the economy (a line of thinking that would one year later be promoted by John Maynard Keynes in a book that would make this a worldwide standard of economics for the decades to come). This expanded department store was the first incentive to Heerlen becoming the shopping centre for the southern half of the province of Limburg . The Glaspaleis ('Glass Palace' or 'Crystal Palace')
21593-433: Was already the textile centre of the region. This first shop consisted of just one large room with rolls of cloth on one side and the herbs on the other side. Arnold, more of an artisan than a businessman, could remain focused on weaving because his wife, Anna Schunck Küppers dealt with the business-side of the shop. She had given up the spice section after just a year. With the little money they had (900 Thaler ) they bought
21744-400: Was done later in the 1964 store, not too successfully). The purpose of the hypermodern, functional building was to create an atmosphere of a market, with all goods (cloth, clothes, carpets and beds) exposed in the shop instead of back in the stock-room, a rather revolutionary idea at the time. As, before, the shop windows of the old shop had been. Heerlen was still a rather provincial town at
21895-524: Was even part of the German Confederation from 1839 to 1866 (just 8 years earlier). Arnold never naturalised and even his grandson Pierre (see #Spin-offs ) had German citizenship until shortly before the Second World War. When the German weaver Arnold Schunck (* Kettenis 11 February 1842, † Heerlen, 15 October 1905) and his wife Anna Maria Küppers (* Aachen, 20 January 1843, † 20 November 1930) arrived in Heerlen on 25 August 1874 to set up
22046-458: Was no longer part of the business. Later, his designs would be bought by van Moorsel in Eindhoven . After his death, Anna kept the remaining cloth and a loom in a special attick. When his grandson Pierre, who had also taken up weaving, wanted to inspect those in 1926, it turned out the loom and the books had been thrown out to make room. They had fallen victim to the success of the business, which
22197-433: Was still growing and had developed into the shopping centre of the region, serving about 200.000 people (not counting nearby Germany and Belgium). And this region is in turn located in the heart of what is called the 'industrial triangle' of Western Europe, with a population of 40 million. Based on the European unification process, Leo Schunck even speculated on the economic opening of the borders. Considering that Dutch Limburg
22348-538: Was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term couturier was in fact first created in order to describe him. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design , only clothing created after 1858 is considered fashion design. It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. Rather than going straight into manufacturing,
22499-467: Was through most of its history looking for more room for expansion. As Heerlen grew, a new market square was created, just to the west, at the Bongerd, a former canal that had been filled up in 1902. As a result, the business lost its prime location. Over time, the Schuncks bought more and more terrain and houses, to the north of the shop, toward the new market square, later culminating in the building of
22650-465: Was too much competition from the industry in Eupen and Aachen . In 1873, Arnold married Anna Küppers from Aachen and later that year their first son Peter was born. Luckily, that year, money and cloth from the inheritance became available, but because of the competition from Eupen and Aachen, the Verviers textile industry started selling its cloth dirt cheap, so the brothers didn't find any buyers for
22801-558: Was worth only one guilder cent. A suit that cost 70 gulden in Heerlen cost only 17 gulden in nearby Aachen, so people from Heerlen started buying there and local shops started going bankrupt. On top of that, the Belgian Franc also plummeted (although that hit Maastricht harder than Heerlen). As if that wasn't enough, before the war the de facto local currency had not been the Dutch gulden but the German Goldmark , so that's
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