A shawl (from Persian : شال shāl ,) is a simple item of clothing , loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular piece of cloth , but can also be square or triangular in shape. Other shapes include oblong shawls. It is associated with the inhabitants of the northern Indian subcontinent —particularly Kashmir and Punjab —and Central Asia, but can be found in many other parts of the world.
58-404: Kashmir was a pivotal point through which the wealth, knowledge, and products of ancient India passed to the world. Perhaps the most widely known woven textiles are the famed Kashmir shawls. The Kanikar , for instance, has intricately woven designs that are formalized imitations of nature. The Chinar leaf ( plane tree leaf), apple and cherry blossoms , the rose and tulip , the almond and pear ,
116-504: A fur or set of furs, usually fox , worn as a stole with a suit or gown ; the pelage or skin, of a single animal (head included) is generally used with street dress while for formal wear a finished length of fur using the skins of more than one animal is used; the word stole stands alone or is used in combination: fur stole , mink stole , the namesake of Dreamlander Mink Stole . Plane tree See text Platanus ( / ˈ p l æ t ə n ə s / PLAT -ən-əss )
174-782: A mango . The Kashmir shawl is an evergreen shawl all over India and the wider world. "Rural Indians called an aam or mango a symbol of fertility". Shawls were also part of the traditional male costume in Kashmir. They were woven in extremely fine woollen twill , some such as the Orenburg shawl , were even said to be as fine as the Shatoosh. They could be in one colour only, woven in different colours (called tilikar ), ornately woven or embroidered (called ameli ). Kashmiri shawls were high-fashion garments in Western Europe in
232-436: A costume, and for symbolic reasons. One famous type of shawl is the tallit , worn by Jewish men during prayers and ceremonies. In Christianity , women have used shawls as a headcovering . In addition to these aforementioned religious uses of shawls, they are worn for added warmth (and fashion) at outdoor or indoor evening affairs, where the temperature is warm enough for men in suits , but not for women in dresses and where
290-571: A frequent motif featured in Classical Chinese poetry as an embodiment of sorrowful sentiments due to its autumnal shedding of leaves. The legendary Dry Tree first recorded by Marco Polo was possibly a platanus. According to the legend, it marked the site of the battle between Alexander the Great and Darius III . The German camouflage pattern Platanenmuster ("plane tree pattern"), designed in 1937–1942 by Johann Georg Otto Schick,
348-475: A jacket might be inappropriate. The Kashmir shawl is a type of shawl distinctive for its Kashmiri weave, and traditionally made of shahtoosh or pashmina wool. Known for its warmth, light weight and characteristic buta design, the Kashmir shawl was originally used by Mughal royalty and nobility. In the late 18th century, it arrived in Europe, where its use by Queen Victoria and Empress Joséphine popularised it as
406-662: A junior synonym of P. lindeniana ANA clade part of the P. racemosa species aggregate PNA-E clade J.-F.Leroy in a strict sense synonymous with P. mexicana var. interior Nixon & Poole, restricted to Guanajuato , Hidalgo , Querétaro and San Luis Potosí , and of hybrid origin s.str: 1–3 ANA clade syn Platanus occidentalis var. lindeniana part of the P. mexicana species aggregate, synonymous with P. mexicana var. mexicana according Nixon & Poole ANA clade junior synonym of P. lindeniana or distinct species ANA clade ANA clade ANA clade ANA clade PNA-E clade PNA-E clade part of
464-686: A luxury commodity, the intricate, tapestry-woven, fine wool shawl had become a fashionable wrap for the ladies of the English and French elite by the 18th century. Supply fell short of demand and manufacturers pressed to produce more, created convincing embroidered versions of the woven shawls that could be produced in half the time. As early as 1803, Kashmiri needlework production was established to increase and hasten output of these shawls, which had been imitated in England since 1784 and even in France. By 1870,
522-458: A place, and have led to initial suspicion of an attack with an irritant gas. After one such mass attack which affected schoolchildren in classrooms with open windows densely surrounded by plane tees, children had to be admitted to hospital, where they were treated and recovered without ill effects. It was found that the symptoms were due to the fine star-shaped trichomes (hairs) on all parts of platanus trees, which are broken off by strong wind after
580-628: A prolonged dry period. The dust created causes direct irritation and scratchiness in the eyes, throat, and nose, but not the runny nose and itching eyes and nose caused by an allergy . The school incident took place after a dry period, with a fairly high temperature of 29 °C (84 °F), and wind blowing at 50 km/h (31 mph). Protection against platanus cough is provided by avoiding contact and wearing protective glasses and masks under weather conditions promoting release of trichomes. When cleaning in an urban environment, sweeping up fallen leaves and branches can release hairs; cleaning by suction
638-459: A stylized cypress tree, the symbol of Iranians. Early designs depicted single plants with large flowers and thin wavy stems, small leaves and roots. As the designs became denser over time, more flowers and leaves were compacted within the shape of the tree, or issuing from vases or a pair of leaves. By the late 18th century, the archetypal curved point at the top of an elliptical outline had evolved. The elaborate paisley created on Kashmir shawls became
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#1732776339051696-532: A symbol of exotic luxury and status. It became a toponym for the Kashmir region itself (as cashmere), inspiring mass-produced imitation industries in India and Europe, and popularising the buta, today known as the Paisley motif. "The shawls made in Kashmir occupy a pre-eminent place among textile products; and it is to them and to their imitations from Western looms that specific importance attaches. The Kashmir shawl
754-458: A very tightly woven shawl can be easily pulled through a small finger ring. The naksha , a Persian device like the Jacquard loom invented centuries later, enabled Indian weavers to create sinuous floral patterns and creeper designs in brocade to rival any painted by a brush. The Kashmir shawl that evolved from this expertise in its heyday had greater fame than any other Indian textile. Always
812-570: Is a genus consisting of a small number of tree species native to the Northern Hemisphere . They are the sole living members of the family Platanaceae . All mature members of Platanus are tall, reaching 30–50 m (98–164 ft) in height. The type species of the genus is the Oriental plane Platanus orientalis . All except for P. kerrii are deciduous , and most are found in riparian or other wetland habitats in
870-581: Is a handwoven twill weaved shawl made of angora goat hairs. A stole is a woman's shawl, especially a formal shawl of expensive fabric , used around the shoulders over a party dress or ball gown . A stole is narrower than a typical shawl and of simpler construction than a cape ; it is a length of a quality material, wrapped and carried about the shoulders or arms. Lighter materials such as silk and chiffon are simply finished , that is, cropped, hemmed , and bound ; heavier materials such as fur and brocade are often lined as well. A stole can also be
928-615: Is an anthropogenic hybrid ( cultivar ) between the North American P. occidentalis sensu stricto (ANA clade) and the Mediterranean P. orientalis (PNA-E clade). Widely used as a park tree across the Northern Hemisphere, it frequently backcrosses with both its parents. The following are named species of Platanus ; not all are accepted by all authorities: part of P. mexicana species aggregate, probably
986-445: Is characterized by the elaboration of its design, in which the "cone" pattern is a prominent feature, and by the glowing harmony, brilliance, depth, and enduring qualities of its colours. The basis of these excellences is found in the very fine, soft, short, flossy under-wool, called pashm or pashmina, found on the shawl-goat, a variety of Capra hircus inhabiting the elevated regions of Tibet . There are several varieties of pashm, but
1044-587: Is made up of four pieces in different colours neatly joined together; the central fluid of the shawl is embellished with a medallion of flowers. However, when the field is ornamented with flowers in the four corners we have the Kunj. Perhaps the most characteristic of the Kashmir shawls is the one made like patchwork. The patterns are woven on the looms in long strips, about twelve to eighteen inches in length and from one half to two inches in width. These design strips, made on very simple and primitive looms, are then cut to
1102-417: Is more durable and keeps it shape better. Woven fabric is constructed with two threads, horizontal and vertical. The horizontal threads are called the weft and the vertical threads are called the warp. The warp and weft can be woven together in different variations of the three basic weaves; plain, twill and satin. These varieties can be shaped into dresses, tops, coats, etc. This article about textiles
1160-481: Is more like appliqué work. Colours are bright and attractive. They are cheap and used for dewan covering or as floor covering— namdas . Triangular knit lace shawls are usually knitted from the neck down, and may or may not be shaped. In contrast, Faroese lace shawls are knitted bottom up and contain a centre back gusset . Each shawl consists of two triangular side panels, a trapezoid-shaped back gusset, an edge treatment, and usually also shoulder shaping. Shalli
1218-453: Is of the wild goats, and painstakingly gathered from shrubs and rough rocks against which the animals rub off their fleece on the approach of summer. This was undoubtedly the soft fleece wool from which were made the famous and much coveted 'ring shawls' in Mughal times. Unfortunately very inferior and second rate wool taken from domesticated sheep and goats provide most of the wool used today on
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#17327763390511276-459: Is particularly popular for this purpose. The American plane is cultivated sometimes for timber and investigations have been made into its use as a biomass crop. The oriental plane is widely used as an ornamental tree, and also has a number of minor medicinal uses. Most significant aspects of cultural history apply to Platanus orientalis in the Old World. The tree is an important part of
1334-448: Is preferred. It is not recommended that trees in cities be felled, as they are beneficial; in particular the platanus trichomes act as biofilters for air pollutants. Where there are urban concentrations presenting a risk, seasonal spraying of trees with a solution of apple pectin can prevent the star hair from breaking off. The principal use of these trees is as ornamental trees, especially in urban areas and by roadsides. The London plane
1392-448: Is rather like the parallel darning stitch and is rarely allowed to penetrate the entire fabric. The outlines of the design are further touched up and emphasized with silk or woollen thread of different colours run round the finer details; the stitch used for this is at an angle overlapping darn stitch, all the stitches used are so minute and fine that individually they can be seen with the unaided eye only with difficulty. When Pashmina wool
1450-400: Is the double-sided Dourukha (Persian, meaning "having two faces"), a woven shawl that is so done as to produce the same effect on both sides. This is a unique piece of craftsmanship, in which a multi-coloured schematic pattern is woven all over the surface, and after the shawl is completed, the rafugar (expert embroiderer) works the outlines of the motifs in darker shades to bring into relief
1508-408: Is to the other North American species ( P. mexicana sensu lato , including up to four species: P. chiapaensis, P. lindeniana, P. [×] mexicana sensu stricto , P. oaxacana; P. occidentalis s.l. with two [sub]species: P. occidentalis, P. palmeri ; P. rzedowskii ). The two groups form genetically and morphologically distinct evolutionary lineages ( sister clades ), informally called
1566-400: Is used for the embroidery work, it is made to blend so intimately with the texture of the basic shawl material that it would be difficult to insert even a fine needle between the embroidery stitches and the basic fabric. The Emperor Akbar was a great admirer of the shawls of Kashmir. It was he who began the fashion of wearing them in duplicate, sewn back to back, so that the under surfaces of
1624-420: The P. racemosa species aggregate PNA-E clade (syn. P. × acerifolia ( Aiton ) Willd. , P. hybrida Brot. ) hybrid of P. occidentalis and P. orientalis interlineage hybrid Planes are susceptible to plane anthracnose ( Apiognomonia veneta ), a fungal disease that can defoliate the trees in some years. The most severe infections are associated with cold, wet spring weather. P. occidentalis and
1682-445: The bias directions (between the warp and weft directions), unless the threads used are elastic. Woven fabric cloth usually frays at the edges, unless techniques are used to counter it, such as the use of pinking shears or hemming . Different companies use textiles differently to create products. Fabrics that are woven do not stretch as easily as knitted fabrics , which can make them advantageous for many uses. Closely woven fabric
1740-478: The larvae of some Lepidoptera species including Phyllonorycter platani and Setaceous Hebrew Character . In the 21st century a disease, commonly known as Massaria disease, has attacked plane trees across Europe. It is caused by the fungus Splanchnonema platani , and causes large lesions on the upper sides of branches. There have been cases of "platanus cough", symptoms of shortness of breath, coughing, and irritated eyes, which may affect several people in
1798-621: The nightingale —these are done in deep mellow tones of maroon, dark red, gold yellow and browns. Yet another type of Kashmir shawl is the Jamia Vr , which is a brocaded woollen fabric sometimes in pure wool and sometimes with a little cotton added. The floral design appears in a heavy, close embroidery-like weave in dull silk or soft pashmina (Persian, meaning "woolen"), and usually comprises small or large flowers delicately sprayed and combined; some shawls have net-like patterns with floral ensemble motifs in them. Still another type of Kashmir shawl
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1856-426: The 1920s under the name of Spanish shawls. Their use as part of the costume of the lead in the opera Carmen contributed to the association of the shawls with Spain rather than China. Some cultures incorporate shawls of various types into their national folk dress , mainly because the relatively unstructured shawls were much more commonly used in earlier times. Shawls are used in order to keep warm, to complement
1914-634: The advent of the Jacquard loom in Europe destroyed the exclusivity of the original Kashmir shawl, which began to be produced in Paisley, Scotland . Even the characteristic Kashmiri motif, the mango-shape , began to be known simply as the paisley . The paisley motif is so ubiquitous to Indian fabrics that it is hard to realize that it is only about 250 years old. It evolved from 1600s floral and tree-of-life designs that were created in expensive, tapestry-woven Mughal textiles. The design in India originated from Persian motif called butta-jeghgha which represents
1972-461: The beauty of design. This mode of craftsmanship not only produces a shawl which is reversible because of the perfect workmanship on both sides, but it combines the crafts of both weaving and embroidery and religious beliefs expressed in different shawls. The most expensive shawls, called shahtoosh , are made from the under-fleece of the Tibetan antelope or Chiru . These shawls are so fine that even
2030-522: The early- to mid-19th century. Shawls in the Indian style were manufactured in the city of Norwich , Norfolk from the late 18th century. The "Norwich shawl" was produced by hand weavers using silk and worsted and supplied the high end of the market. Paisley shawls , imitation Kashmiri shawls woven in Paisley, Renfrewshire , are the origin of the name of the traditional paisley pattern . Decline in market for expensive shawls, due to changes in fashion and
2088-399: The female flowers become achenes that form an aggregate ball. The fruit is a multiple of achenes (plant systematics, Simpson M. G., 2006). Typically, the core of the ball is 1 cm in diameter and is covered with a net of mesh 1 mm, which can be peeled off. The ball is 2.5–4 cm in diameter and contains several hundred achenes, each of which has a single seed and is conical, with
2146-561: The finest is a strict monopoly of the maharaja of Kashmir. Inferior pashm and Kerman wool — a fine soft Persian sheep's wool — are used for shawl weaving at Amritsar and other places in the Punjab , where colonies of Kashmiri weavers are established. Of shawls, apart from shape and pattern, there are only two principal classes: (1) loom-woven shawls called tiliwalla, tilikar or kani kar — sometimes woven in one piece, but more often in small segments which are sewn together with such precision that
2204-428: The literary scenery of Plato's dialogue Phaedrus . Because of Plato , the tree also played an important role in the scenery of Cicero's De Oratore . The trees also provided the shade under which Aristotle and Plato's famed philosophical schools were held. Handel 's opera Serse has a famous aria , " Ombra mai fu ", which the title character sings in praise of his favorite plane tree. The plane tree has been
2262-473: The looms of Kashmir. The needle-worked Amlikar or Amli , made from Pashmina wool is a shawl embroidered almost all over with the needle on a plain woven ground. The colours most commonly seen on pashmina shawls are yellow, white, black, blue, green, purple, crimson and scarlet. The design motifs are usually formalised imitations of nature like the leaf, flower and tree designs mentioned above; they are always done in rich colours. The embroidery stitch employed
2320-601: The mass market competition from industrial production led to the ending of Norwich shawl making in the 1870s. Silk shawls with fringes, made in China , were available by the first decade of the 19th century. Ones with embroidery and fringes were available in Europe and the Americas by 1820. These were called China crêpe shawls or China shawls , and in Spain mantones de Manila because they were shipped to Spain from China via
2378-402: The name ). Some North American species are called sycamores (especially Platanus occidentalis ), although the term is also used for several unrelated species of trees . The genus name Platanus comes from Ancient Greek πλάτανος , which referred to Platanus orientalis . The flowers are reduced and are borne in balls (globose heads); 3–7 hairy sepals may be fused at the base, and
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2436-551: The other American species are the most susceptible, with P. orientalis the most resistant. The hybrid London plane is intermediate in resistance. Ceratocystis platani , a wilt disease , has become a significant problem in recent years in much of Europe. The North American species are mostly resistant to the disease, with which they probably coevolved, while the Old World species are highly sensitive. Other diseases such as powdery mildew occur frequently, but are of lesser importance. Platanus species are used as food plants by
2494-579: The others; recent studies in Mexico have increased the number of accepted species in this subgenus. Within subgenus Platanus , evidence from both chloroplast and nuclear gene sequences suggests that the P. racemosa species complex in Western North America (including P. racemosa , P. gentryi , P. wrightii ) is more closely related to the Eurasian P. orientalis than it
2552-468: The patchwork embroidered shawls consists of a certain number of irregularly shaped pieces joined together, each one balancing the predominant colour scheme of the shawl. The basic material for a gubba is milled blanket dyed in plain colour. Embroidery is bold and vivid in designing and done with woollen or cotton threads. Gubbas have more of a folk flavour blankets cut and patched into geometric patterns, with limited, embroidery on joining and open space. It
2610-425: The petals are 3–7 and are spatulate . Male and female flowers are separate, but borne on the same plant ( monoecious ). The number of heads in one cluster ( inflorescence ) is indicative of the species (see table below). The male flower has 3–8 stamens ; the female has a superior ovary with 3–7 carpels . Plane trees are wind-pollinated. Male flower-heads fall off after shedding their pollen. After being pollinated,
2668-422: The point attached downward to the net at the surface of the ball. There is also a tuft of many thin stiff yellow-green bristle fibers attached to the base of each achene. These bristles help in wind dispersion of the fruits as in the dandelion . The leaves are simple and alternate. In the subgenus Platanus they have a palmate outline. The base of the leaf stalk (petiole) is enlarged and completely wraps around
2726-633: The port of Manila . The importance of these shawls in fashionable women's wardrobes declined between 1865 and 1870 in Western culture. However, they became part of folk dress in a number of places including Germany, the Near East, various parts of Latin America, and Spain where they became a part of Romani ( gitana ) dress especially in Andalusia and Madrid . These embroidered items were revived in
2784-448: The required lengths and very neatly and expertly hand sewn together with almost invisible stitches and finally joined by sewing to a plain central field piece. As a variation, pieces may be separately woven, cut up in various shapes of differing sizes and expertly sewn together and then further elaborated with embroidery. But there is a difference between these two types: while the patchwork loom shawls are made up from separate narrow strips,
2842-400: The sewing is quite imperceptible; and (2) embroidered shawls — amlikar — in which over a ground of plain pashmina is worked by needle a minute and elaborate pattern." from Encyclopaedia Britannica , 1911 The majority of the woollen fabrics of Kashmir, and particularly the best quality shawls, were and are still made of Pashm or Pashmina , which is the wool of Capra hircus , a species of
2900-469: The shawls were never seen. During that time the most desired shawls were those worked in gold and silver thread or shawls with border ornamented with fringes of gold, silver and silk thread. The Do-shala , as the name designates ("two-shawl"), are always sold in pairs, there being many varieties of them. In the Khali-matan the central field is quite plain and without any ornamentation. The Char-bagan
2958-530: The splitting of an ancestral lineage into two ( Tree of Life metaphor) but also evolutionary anastomoses : hybridization and introgression. The fossil record of leaves and fruit identifiable to Platanus begins in the Paleocene . Despite the geographic separation between North America and Old World, species from these continents will cross readily resulting in fertile hybrids such as the London plane, which
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#17327763390513016-577: The vogue in Europe for over a century, and it was imitations of these shawls woven in factories at Paisley, Scotland, that gave it the name paisley still commonly used in the United States and Europe. In the late 18th century and 19th century, the paisley became an important motif in a wide range of Indian textiles, perhaps because it was associated with the Mughal court. It also caught the attention of poorer and non-Muslim Indians because it resembles
3074-580: The warp (longitudinal yarns) or the weft (transverse yarns). Warping: The warp yarns are arranged on a beam to prepare for weaving. Weaving: During weaving, the weft yarn passes over and under the warp yarns in various patterns. The primary types of weaves are plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. Finishing: After weaving, the fabric undergoes several finishing processes, which might include bleaching, dyeing, printing, and treatments to enhance performance characteristics like water resistance or shrinkage prevention. Woven fabrics only stretch diagonally on
3132-474: The wild Asian mountain goat. Hence the shawls came to be called Pashmina. The fine fleece used for the shawls is that which grows under the rough, woolly, outer coat of the animal; that from the under-belly, which is shed on the approach of hot weather. Materials of an inferior grade were of the wool of the wild Himalayan mountain sheep or the Himalayan ibex . However, the best fleece wool is soft, silky and warm
3190-423: The wild, though proving drought-tolerant in cultivation. The hybrid London plane ( Platanus × hispanica ) has proved particularly tolerant of urban conditions, and has been widely planted in London and elsewhere across the temperate world. They are often known in English as planes or plane trees . A formerly used name that is now rare is plantain tree (not to be confused with other, unrelated, species with
3248-411: The young stem bud in its axil. The axillary bud is exposed only after the leaf falls off. The mature bark peels off or exfoliates easily in irregularly shaped patches, producing a mottled, scaly appearance. On old trunks, bark may not flake off, but thickens and cracks instead. There are two subgenera, subgenus Castaneophyllum containing the anomalous P. kerrii , and subgenus Platanus , with all
3306-453: The “ANA clade” (Atlantic North American lineage) and “PNA-E clade” (Pacific North American-European lineage). Both lineages have been affected by reticulate evolutionary processes in the past (ancient or recent hybridization and introgression ): The genus Platanus exemplarily illustrates the concept of a Coral of Life , a species network. Its modern-day species are not only the product of evolutionary dichotomies ( cladogenesis ),
3364-640: Was the first dotted camouflage pattern. Woven Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving . Woven fabrics are often created on a loom , and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft . Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another. Woven fabrics can be made of natural fibers, synthetic fibers , or a mixture of both, such as cotton and polyester . Woven fabrics are used for clothing, garments, decorations, furniture, carpets and other uses. Yarn Preparation: Yarns are spun and prepared with specific properties tailored for either
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