112-806: Simonsbath House is a historic house in Simonsbath on Exmoor in Somerset , England. The Grade II listed building is now the Simonsbath House Hotel, and outdoor activity centre. It lies in the valley of the River Barle and on the Two Moors Way footpath. The house was built in the mid-17th century by the merchant, lawyer and philosopher James Boevey (1622-1696), the warden of the Royal forest of Exmoor , and for 150 years his
224-956: A National Park , which includes the Brendon Hills , the East Lyn Valley , the Vale of Porlock and 55 km (34 mi) of the Bristol Channel coast. The total area of the Exmoor National Park is 692.8 km (267.5 sq mi), of which 71% is in Somerset and 29% in Devon. The upland area is underlain by sedimentary rocks dating from the Devonian and early Carboniferous periods with Triassic and Jurassic age rocks on lower slopes. Where these reach
336-589: A chamfered lintel which dates from 1654, panelling and a 17th-century overmantel with a painted coat of arms which was brought from Weare Giffard Hall, near Bideford , a secondary seat of the Earls Fortescue. Above the fireplace in the lounge of Simonsbath House is a late 16th-century heraldic overmantel relating to the Fortescue family and brought by them from Weare Giffard Hall, Devon. A framed handwritten explanatory note written c. 1900 by
448-708: A National Park in 1954, under the 1949 National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act. About three quarters of the park is privately owned, made up of numerous private estates. The largest landowners are the National Trust , which owns over 10% of the land, and the National Park Authority, which owns about 7%. Other areas are owned by the Forestry Commission , Crown Estate and Water Companies. The largest private landowner
560-474: A centre for the population. The church has been designated by English Heritage as a Grade II listed building . At around the same time as the construction of the church, a mine was developed alongside the River Barle. The mine was originally called Wheal Maria, then changed to Wheal Eliza . It was a copper mine from 1845–54 and then an iron mine until 1857, although the first mining activity on
672-479: A dispersed population living mainly in small villages and hamlets. The largest settlements are Porlock , Dulverton , Lynton , and Lynmouth , which together contain almost 40 per cent of the park's population. Lynton and Lynmouth are combined into one parish and are connected by the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway . Exmoor was once a royal forest and hunting ground, covering 18,810 acres (7,610 ha), which
784-462: A hotel under the name "Diana Lodge Hotel" (in reference to the Roman goddess of hunting), which had several owners during the ensuing decades. In 1969 the name reverted to Simonsbath House. The house, which consists of several bays, has white painted walls and slate roofs. Outside are several agricultural buildings which have been adapted to provide accommodation. The interior includes a fireplace with
896-527: A maximum height of 414 m (1,358 ft) at Culbone Hill. Exmoor's woodlands sometimes reach the shoreline, especially between Porlock and Foreland Point , where they form the single longest stretch of coastal woodland in England and Wales . The Exmoor Coastal Heaths have been recognised as a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to the diversity of plant species present. The scenery of rocky headlands, ravines, waterfalls and towering cliffs gained
1008-459: A member of the Fortescue family identifies the arms as follows, Shields from left to right: The 3rd and 4th shields thus represent (3rd): the father of Hugh Fortescue (1545-1600), Sheriff of Devon in 1585, who died at Wear Giffard, and (4th): the father of his wife Elizabeth Chichester. and suggest that the overmantel was made to his order between 1570, when he succeeded his father and his death in 1600. A modern heraldic overmantel also exists in
1120-504: A mine was developed alongside the River Barle. The mine was originally called Wheal Maria, then changed to Wheal Eliza. It was a copper mine from 1845 to 1854 and then an iron mine until 1857, although the first mining activity on the site may be from 1552. At Simonsbath, a restored Victorian water-powered sawmill, which was damaged in the floods of 1992, has now been purchased by the National Park and returned to working order; it
1232-545: A population, at the time of the 2001 census , of 203 in 78 households, reducing to 156 at the 2011 census . The River Exe rises from a valley to the north, and the River Barle runs through the village and is crossed by a triple-arched medieval bridge that was extensively repaired after floods in 1952. The settlement lies on the route of the Two Moors Way and close to the Macmillan Way West . The -bath element in this place-name, not recorded before 1791,
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#17327803127841344-567: A series 'top walks' in 3 collections of Exmoor Strolls (step and stile free routes more accessible routes), Exmoor Explorers (shorter walks to discover the best of Exmoor) and Exmoor Classics (longer walks to discover more of Exmoor). For others, although the hunting of animal with hounds was made illegal by the Hunting Act 2004 , the Exmoor hunts still meet in full regalia and there is a campaign to resurrect this rural sport. Nine hunts cover
1456-607: A stop on the West Somerset Railway . Exford lies on the River Exe. Exmoor has been the setting for several novels including the 19th-century Lorna Doone: A Romance of Exmoor by R. D. Blackmore , and Margaret Drabble 's 1998 novel The Witch of Exmoor . The park was featured on the television programme Seven Natural Wonders twice, as one of the wonders of the West Country . Wheal Eliza Mine on
1568-457: Is 1,250 feet (381 m) above sea level, in the valley of the River Barle . On the Chains is a 3 acres (1.2 ha) reservoir known as Pinkery Pond. It was formed by damming the River Barle, in the 19th century by John Knight and his son, and was originally intended to be 7 acres (2.8 ha). The purpose is unknown but close to the pond is the remains of a small canal. On the moor north of
1680-472: Is 69.6 inches (1,768 mm), although 7.35 inches (187 mm) fell in the 24-hour period preceding 10 a.m. on 16 August 1952, which was one of the contributory factors leading to the flooding in Lynmouth . Estimates from the 2001 census show Simonsbath as having a population of 300 in 110 households, 99.7% of which are white and 0.3% Asian or Asian British. The Exmoor Forest Inn was originally known as
1792-453: Is 8.3 °C (46.9 °F) with a seasonal and diurnal variation, but due to the modifying effect of the sea the range is less than in most other parts of the UK. January is the coldest month, with mean minimum temperatures between 1 and 2 °C (34 and 36 °F). July and August are the warmest months in the region, with mean daily maxima around 21 °C (70 °F). In general, December
1904-514: Is a cryptozoological cat (see phantom cat ) that is reported to roam Exmoor. There have been numerous reports of eyewitness sightings. The BBC calls it "the famous-yet-elusive beast of Exmoor". Sightings were first reported in the 1970s although it became notorious in 1983, when a South Molton farmer claimed to have lost over 100 sheep in the space of three months, all of them apparently killed by violent throat injuries. In response to these reports Royal Marine Commandos were deployed from bases in
2016-460: Is believed to be a Neolithic henge dating from 5000–4000 BC , and Cow Castle , which is where White Water meets the River Barle, is an Iron Age fort at the top of a conical hill. Tarr Steps are a prehistoric ( c. 1000 BC) clapper bridge across the River Barle, about 4 km ( 2 + 1 ⁄ 2 mi) south-east of Withypool and 6 km (4 mi) north-west of Dulverton. The stone slabs weigh up to 5 tonnes apiece, and
2128-609: Is easily accounted for: the Old English bæth signified "water, a pool". The identity of Simon is less sure. R. J. King pointed out that the name is frequently met with in the West of England, "especially in connection with old boundary lines". Thomas Westcote , in his View of Devonshire in 1630 , preserved a local tradition that "Simon" was a great hunter and Robin Hood-like figure who had his stronghold at Symonsburrow, at
2240-595: Is loosely defined as an area of hilly open moorland in west Somerset and north Devon in South West England . It is named after the River Exe , the source of which is situated in the centre of the area, two miles north-west of Simonsbath . Exmoor is more precisely defined as the area of the former ancient royal hunting forest, also called Exmoor, which was officially surveyed 1815–1818 as 18,810 acres (7,610 ha) in extent. The moor has given its name to
2352-400: Is nationally important for its south-western lowland heath communities and for transitions from Ancient woodland through upland heath to blanket mire . The site is also of importance for its breeding bird communities, its large population of the nationally rare heath fritillary ( Mellicta athalia ), an exceptional woodland lichen flora and its palynological interest of deep peat on
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#17327803127842464-757: Is now used to make the footpath signs, gates, stiles and bridges for various sites in the park. In addition to the Exmoor Coastal Heaths Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), two other areas are specifically designated. North Exmoor covers 12,005.3 hectares (29,666 acres) and includes the Dunkery Beacon and the Holnicote and Horner Water Nature Conservation Review sites, and the Chains Geological Conservation Review site. The Chains site
2576-517: Is responsible for running the largest and most expensive local services such as education , social services , libraries , main roads, public transport , policing and fire services , trading standards , waste disposal and strategic planning. Local health services are managed by the Somerset Coast Primary Care Trust. An electoral ward with the name 'Greater Exmoor' also exists. This extends from Simonsbath to
2688-436: Is supported by wet, acid soil. Exmoor has 55 kilometres (34 miles) of coastline. The highest sea cliff on mainland Britain (if a cliff is defined as having a slope greater than 60 degrees) is Great Hangman near Combe Martin at 318 m (1,043 ft) high, with a cliff face of 250 m (820 ft). Its sister cliff is the 200 m (656 ft) Little Hangman, which marks the edge of Exmoor. The coastal hills reach
2800-578: Is the Badgworthy Land Company , which represents hunting interests. From 1954 on, local government was the responsibility of the district and county councils, which remain responsible for the social and economic well-being of the local community. Since 1997 the Exmoor National Park Authority, which is known as a 'single purpose' authority, has taken over some functions to meet its aims to "conserve and enhance
2912-582: Is the month with the least sunshine and June the month with the most sun. The south-west of England has a favoured location with regard to the Azores high pressure when it extends its influence north-eastwards towards the UK, particularly in summer. Cloud often forms inland, especially near hills, and reduce the amount of sunshine that reaches the park. The average annual sunshine is about 1,600 hours. Rainfall tends to be associated with Atlantic depressions or with convection. In summer, convection, caused by
3024-428: Is the only national location for the lichens Biatoridium delitescens , Rinodina fimbriata and Rinodina flavosoralifera , the latter having been found only on one individual tree. In 2024, plans were unveiled to plant approximately 38,000 trees near the sea on Exmoor as part of a larger initiative led by the National Trust to plant over 100,000 trees in northern Devon, aimed at supporting Celtic rainforests . Among
3136-413: Is very sparse and the ground flora includes bracken , bilberry and a variety of mosses. The heaths have strong breeding populations of birds, including whinchat ( Saxicola rubetra ) and European stonechat ( Saxicola rubicola ). Wheatear ( Oenanthe oenanthe ) are common near stone boundary walls and other stony places. Grasshopper warbler ( Locustella naevia ) breed in scrub and tall heath. Trees on
3248-594: The Beast of Exmoor , a cryptozoological cat roaming Exmoor. Several areas have been designated as Nature Conservation Review and Geological Conservation Review sites. There is evidence of human occupation from the Mesolithic . This developed for agriculture and extraction of mineral ores into the Bronze and Iron Ages . The remains of standing stones , cairns and bridges can still be identified. The royal forest
3360-699: The Devon boundary in the west, and Cutcombe in the east plus Hawkridge in the south east. The total population of this ward at the abovementioned election was 1,123. It is also part of the Tiverton and Minehead constituency represented in the House of Commons of the Parliament of the United Kingdom . It elects one Member of Parliament (MP) by the first past the post system of election. Simonsbath
3472-493: The Devon and Somerset Staghounds 1880/81–87, acquired the reversion of the whole of the former Royal Forest of Exmoor after the death of Frederick Winn Knight . This was largely done to further his passion for staghunting. When Castle Hill was largely destroyed by a fire in 1934, the Fortescue family moved to Simonsbath House whilst rebuilding was in progress. The 4th Earl's granddaughter and eventual heiress, Lady Margaret Fortescue (1923-2013), devoted much time to attempting to put
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3584-592: The Devon and Somerset Staghounds . A painting of him out hunting by Lionel Edwards is owned by his granddaughter Lady Margaret Fortescue. He established, with other landowners, the Badgworthy Land Company, to which were conveyed some freehold land around Badgworthy Water and also the hunting rights in perpetuity over much of the land on Exmoor and of that surrounding it. This was designed to ensure that future owners of piecemeal plots, unfavourably disposed to hunting, would not be able to restrict access to
3696-758: The Exmoor National Park , into a huge industrial mining complex with canals and railways together with an agricultural estate. He had previously bought and reclaimed uncultivated land in Worcestershire and used similar techniques including burning rough grass, applying lime to change the pH , and ploughing to increase the productivity of the land. He also introduced the Cheviot sheep to the area which are now common throughout Exmoor. Knight and his son Col. Sir Frederick Winn Knight (1812–1897), KCB, MP, who assumed management in 1841, built most of
3808-489: The International Dark-Sky Association . Exmoor is an upland area formed almost exclusively from sedimentary rocks dating from the Devonian and early Carboniferous periods. The name of the geological period and system , 'Devonian', comes from Devon, as rocks of that age were first studied and described here. With the exception of a suite of Triassic and Jurassic age rocks forming
3920-484: The Middle Ages , sheep farming for the wool trade came to dominate the economy. The wool was spun into thread on isolated farms and collected by merchants to be woven, fulled, dyed and finished in thriving towns such as Dunster . The land started to be enclosed and from the 17th century onwards larger estates developed, leading to establishment of areas of large regular shaped fields. During the 16th and 17th centuries
4032-498: The Secretary of State . The work is carried out by 80 staff including rangers, volunteers and a team of estate workers who carry out a wide range of tasks including maintaining the many miles of rights of way, hedge laying , fencing, swaling, walling, invasive weed control and habitat management on National Park Authority land. There are ongoing debates between the authority and farmers over the biological monitoring of SSSIs, showing
4144-686: The Simonsbath House Hotel and outdoor activity centre. On 4 July 1815 an Act of Parliament (55 Geo. 3. c. 138) was passed to enable the Inclosure of Exmoor, the summary heading of which was: "An Act for vesting in His Majesty certain parts of the Forest of Exmoor otherwise Exmore in the counties of Somerset and Devon and for enclosing the said Forest". After the Forest had been split into allotments and these had been conveyed to
4256-406: The catchment area for numerous rivers and streams. There are about 483 km (300 mi) of named rivers on Exmoor. The River Exe , after which Exmoor is named, rises at Exe Head near the village of Simonsbath , close to the Bristol Channel coast, but flows more or less directly due south, so that most of its length lies in Devon . It reaches the sea at a substantial ria ( estuary ) on
4368-535: The coast of North Devon , crossing parts of both Dartmoor and Exmoor. Both of these walks intersect with the South West Coast Path , Britain's longest National Trail. Other Exmoor walking trails include the Tarka Trail , Samaritans Way South West , Macmillan Way West , Exe Valley Way and Celtic Way Exmoor Option. In addition to long distant walks the Exmoor National Park Authority promote
4480-678: The Acland Herd, now known as the Anchor Herd, whose direct descendants still roam the moor. In the Second World War the moor became a training ground, and the breed was nearly killed off, with only 50 ponies surviving the war. The ponies are classified as endangered by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust , with only 390 breeding females left in the UK. In 2006 a Rural Enterprise Grant, administered locally by
4592-808: The Bristol Channel. These include the River Heddon , which runs along the western edges of Exmoor, reaching the North Devon coast at Heddon's Mouth , and the East and West Lyn rivers, which meet at Watersmeet immediately east of Lynmouth. Hoar Oak Water is a moorland tributary of the East Lyn River which also has its confluence there. The River Horner , which is also known as Horner Water, rises near Luccombe and flows into Porlock Bay near Hurlstone Point . The River Mole arises on
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4704-594: The British Big Cats Society reported that a skull found by a Devon farmer was that of a puma; however, the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) states, "Based on the evidence, Defra does not believe that there are big cats living in the wild in England." The National Park, 71% of which is in Somerset and 29% in Devon, has a resident population of 10,600. It was designated
4816-466: The Chains. The South Exmoor SSSI is smaller, covering 3,132.7 hectares (7,741 acres) and including the River Barle and its tributaries with submerged plants such as alternate water-milfoil ( Myriophyllum alterniflorum ). There are small areas of semi-natural woodland within the site, including some which are ancient. The most abundant tree species is sessile oak ( Quercus petraea ), the shrub layer
4928-552: The Exmoor coast recognition as a heritage coast in 1991. With its huge waterfalls and caves, this dramatic coastline has become an adventure playground for both climbers and explorers. The cliffs provide one of the longest and most isolated seacliff traverses in the UK. The South West Coast Path , at 1,014 kilometres (630 mi) the longest National Trail in England and Wales, starts at Minehead and runs along all of Exmoor's coast. There are small harbours at Lynmouth, Porlock Weir and Combe Martin. Once crucial to coastal trade,
5040-461: The Exmoor estate onto a profitable footing. The house was altered by the Fortescues, including the building of one of the first Squash Courts in England in 1929. A 16th century heraldic chimney piece was brought by the Fortescues from their secondary seat at Weare Giffard Hall in Devon, and survives in today's hotel. During World War II the house was used as a school, and afterwards was as
5152-585: The Master of the Devon and Somerset Staghounds , a position extant today. By 1820 the royal forest had been divided up. A quarter of the forest, 10,262 acres (4,153 ha), was sold to John Knight (1765–1850) in 1818. This section comprises the present Exmoor Parish, whose parish church is situated in Simonsbath. The parish of Exmoor Forest was part of the Hundred of Williton and Freemanners . During
5264-455: The National Park. Attractions on the coast include the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway , which connects Lynton to neighbouring picturesque Lynmouth at the confluence of the East Lyn and West Lyn rivers, nearby Valley of Rocks and Watersmeet . Woody Bay , a few miles west of Lynton , is home to the Lynton & Barnstaple Railway , a narrow-gauge railway which once connected
5376-543: The Refreshment House, then from 1885 The William Rufus Inn and then The Exmoor Forest Hotel in 1901. For a while it was split in half with the nearest part to the road being the Temperance Hotel, until re-united in 1909. It was teetotal until 1933 when the parish of Exmoor was granted its excise licence. In 2005 the term 'Inn' was reinstated to the name, when the building was renovated. When known as
5488-473: The Simonsbath House and the accompanying farm for £50,000. He set about converting the royal forest into agricultural land. He and his family also built most of the large farms in the central section of the moor as well as 35.4 km (22.0 mi) of metalled access roads to Simonsbath and a 46.7 km (29.0 mi) wall around his estate, much of which still survives. In the mid-19th century
5600-481: The Simonsbath estate, together with much of the two Fortescue estates centred on Challacombe and West Buckland , to pay large death duties. The properties sold were as follows, per the sales particulars headed "The Challacombe Estate and part of the Exmoor Estate, North Devon" dated 18 September 1959: It was a decision she said in 2001 that she then regretted, but had been advised at the time not to burden
5712-541: The South West Rural Development Service, was obtained to create a new Exmoor Pony Centre at Ashwick, at a disused farm with 7 hectares (17 acres) of land with a further 56 hectares (140 acres) of moorland. Red deer have a stronghold on the moor and can be seen on quiet hillsides in remote areas, particularly in the early morning. The Emperor of Exmoor , a red stag ( Cervus elaphus ), was Britain's largest known wild land animal, until it
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#17327803127845824-761: The Trentishoe Member (formerly 'Formation') of the Hangman Sandstone Formation (formerly 'Group'). The Hangman Sandstone represents the Middle Devonian sequence of North Devon and Somerset. These unusual freshwater deposits in the Hangman Grits were mainly formed in desert conditions. As this area of Britain was not subject to glaciation , the plateau remains as a remarkably old landform. The bedrock and more recent superficial deposits are covered in part by moorland which
5936-538: The West Country to watch for the mythical beast from covert observation points. After 6 months no sightings had been made by the Royal Marines and the deployments were ended. Descriptions of its colouration range from black to tan or dark grey. It is possibly a cougar or black leopard which was released after a law was passed in 1976 making it illegal for them to be kept in captivity outside zoos. In 2006,
6048-568: The William Rufus Inn, it was said to be the haunt of the noted Exmoor Highwayman Tom Faggus, who married 'Girt Jan Ridds' sister whose exploits are recorded in 'Lorna Doone'. Once it was said, Faggus's enemies laid a trap to catch him in the Inn, but Faggus whistled for his strawberry mare Winnie who jumped through the window and kicked all her masters enemies away from him. Faggus jumped on the mare's back and escaped. Exmoor Exmoor
6160-495: The ages of 11 and 13, having been brought up at Ebrington Manor in Gloucestershire until the family's move to Castle Hill in 1932 on the death of her grandfather the 4th Earl. She recalled in 2001 that Diana Lodge then had panelled rooms downstairs, still in existence, with primitive bedrooms upstairs, linoleum on the floor and one bathroom between the whole family. It was always cold and was heated by smoky peat fires. There
6272-472: The area around Combe Martin. It was 40 metres (131 ft) in diameter and 6.2 m (20 ft) high above the bottom of a rock cut ditch which is 2.7 m (9 ft) deep. It was built, in the late 11th or early 12th century. The earthworks of the castle are still clearly visible from a nearby footpath, but there is no public access to them. According to the late 13th-century Hundred Rolls , King Henry II of England (d. 1189) gave William of Wrotham
6384-445: The area by people from Mesolithic times onward. In the Neolithic period, people started to manage animals and grow crops on farms cleared from the woodland, rather than act purely as hunters and as gatherers. It is also likely that extraction and smelting of mineral ores to make metal tools, weapons, containers and ornaments started in the late Neolithic, and continued into the Bronze and Iron Ages . An earthen ring at Parracombe
6496-409: The area. Exmoor ponies can be seen roaming freely on the moors. They are a landrace rather than a breed of pony, and may be the closest breed to wild horses remaining in Europe; they are also one of the oldest breeds of pony in the world. The ponies are rounded up once a year to be marked and checked over. In 1818 Sir Thomas Acland , the last warden of Exmoor, took thirty ponies and established
6608-477: The area—the Devon and Somerset Staghounds and the Quantock Staghounds , the Exmoor, Dulverton West, Dulverton Farmers and West Somerset Foxhounds, the Minehead Harriers, the West Somerset Beagles and the North Devon Beagles. During the spring, amateur steeplechase meetings ( point-to-points ) are run by hunts at temporary courses such as Bratton Down and Holnicote. These, along with thoroughbred racing and pony racing , are an opportunity for farmers, hunt staff and
6720-409: The bar, showing 19th century Fortescue family arms. Simonsbath Simonsbath ( / ˈ s ɪ m ən z b ɑː θ , - b æ θ / ) is a small village high on Exmoor in the English county of Somerset . It is the principal settlement in the Exmoor civil parish , which is the largest and most sparsely populated civil parish on Exmoor, covering nearly 32 square miles (83 km ) but with
6832-521: The bridge has been designated by English Heritage as a grade I listed building , to recognise its special architectural, historical or cultural significance. There is little evidence of Roman occupation apart from two fortlets on the coast. Lanacombe is the site of several standing stones and cairns which have been scheduled as ancient monuments . The stone settings are between 30 cm (12 in) and 65 cm (26 in) high. A series of Bronze Age stone cairns are closely associated with
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#17327803127846944-412: The coast, cliffs are formed which are cut with ravines and waterfalls. It was recognised as a heritage coast in 1991. The highest point on Exmoor is Dunkery Beacon ; at 519 metres (1,703 ft) it is also the highest point in Somerset. The terrain supports lowland heath communities , ancient woodland and blanket mire which provide habitats for scarce flora and fauna. There have also been reports of
7056-420: The commons were overstocked with agisted livestock, from farmers outside the immediate area who were charged for the privilege. This led to disputes about the number of animals allowed and the enclosure of land. In the mid-17th century James Boevey was the warden. The house that he built at Simonsbath was the only one in the forest for 150 years. When the royal forest was sold off in 1818, John Knight bought
7168-414: The council's operating costs and producing annual accounts for public scrutiny. The parish council evaluates local planning applications and works with the local police, district council officers, and neighbourhood watch groups on matters of crime, security, and traffic. The parish council's role also includes initiating projects for the maintenance and repair of parish facilities, as well as consulting with
7280-399: The district council on the maintenance, repair, and improvement of highways, drainage, footpaths, public transport, and street cleaning. Conservation matters (including trees and listed buildings) and environmental issues are also the responsibility of the council. The village falls within the non-metropolitan district of Somerset West and Taunton , which was established on 1 April 2019. It
7392-601: The east of the National Park. There are also 3,000 hectares (7,400 acres) of Forestry Commission woodland, comprising a mixture of broad-leaved ( oak , ash and hazel ) and conifer trees. Horner Woodlands and Tarr Steps woodlands are prime examples. The country's highest beech tree, 350 m (1,150 ft) above sea level, is at Birch Cleave at Simonsbath but beech in hedgebanks grow up to 490 m (1,610 ft). At least two species of whitebeam : Sorbus subcuneata and Sorbus 'Taxon D' are unique to Exmoor. These woodlands are home to lichens, mosses and ferns . Exmoor
7504-438: The eastern part of the estate, comprising 1,745 acres, was sold to the industrialist Sir Robert Waley Cohen (d.1952), who had leased Honeymead since 1924, including the farmsteads of Honeymead, Pickedstones and Winstitchen. The remainder of the estate continued to be held by the Fortescues until after the death of the 5th Earl in 1958, when the latter's eldest daughter and co-heiress, Lady Margaret Fortescue (b. 1923), sold much of
7616-464: The farmstead centres; the walls bother the sportsman more than the deer; and the bogs are as deep, the inner recesses of the moors as wild and solitary, and the coarse grass, and the bracken, and the heathers supreme in their occupancy mile after mile, as if no effort had ever been made to redeem its mingled wildness and sterility." The small hamlet developed in the 19th century, when more houses were built along with St Luke's Church (1856), providing
7728-419: The harbours are now primarily used for pleasure; individually owned sailing boats and non-commercial fishing boats are often found in the harbours. The Valley of Rocks beyond Lynton is a deep dry valley that runs parallel to the nearby sea and is capped on the seaward side by large rocks, and Sexton's Burrows forms a natural breakwater to the harbour of Watermouth Bay on the coast. The high ground forms
7840-401: The highest point of the Blackdown Hills , a barrow that pre-dates even a medieval legend associated with it. Simonsbath House was built in 1654 by the merchant, lawyer and philosopher James Boevey (1622–1696), the warden of the Royal forest of Exmoor , and for 150 years his was the only house in the forest, which consists largely of moorland . The Grade II listed building is now
7952-516: The historic wide expanses of hunting land used by the Devon & Somerset Staghounds and local foxhound packs. When Castle Hill burned down in 1934, the 5th Earl Fortescue resided with his wife and two young daughters at Simonsbath House, previously only used by the family as a hunting box, then named Diana Lodge after the Roman goddess of the hunt, moving back to the rebuilt Castle Hill in May 1936. Lady Margaret Fortescue expressed very fond memories of her childhood at Simonsbath, where she lived between
8064-616: The house. During the second half of the 18th century and the early part of the 19th century the wardens of the forest were the Acland baronets who leased the house, and it was licensed as an inn. After the Inclosure Acts the house was bought, with the accompanying farm and about 70,000 acres (280 km), the remaining portion of the former Royal Forest belonging to the Crown Estate , by John Knight of Worcestershire in 1818 for
8176-429: The large farms in the central section of the moor and laid down 22 miles (35 km) of metalled access roads to Simonsbath. He built a 29 miles (47 km) stone wall around his estate, parts of which still survive. However, progress was slow, and Richard Nicholls Worth stated in 1879 in his "Tourist's Guide to North Devon and the Exmoor district": "The mansion was never finished; cultivation has not spread far from
8288-504: The lower ground between Porlock and Timberscombe and from Minehead to Yarde (within Exmoor National Park but peripheral to the moor itself), all of the solid rocks of Exmoor are assigned to the Exmoor Group , which comprises a mix of gritstones , sandstones , slates , shales , limestone , siltstones and mudstones . Quartz and iron mineralisation can be detected in outcrops and subsoil . The Glenthorne area demonstrates
8400-564: The main attractions. The South West Coast Path starts at Minehead and follows all along the Exmoor coast before continuing to Poole . The Coleridge Way is an 82 km (51 mi) footpath which follows the walks taken by poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge to Lynmouth , starting from Coleridge Cottage at Nether Stowey in the Quantocks where he once lived. The Two Moors Way runs from Ivybridge in South Devon to Lynmouth on
8512-407: The moorland edges provide nesting sites for Lesser redpoll ( Acanthis cabaret ), common buzzard ( Buteo buteo ) and raven ( Corvus corax ). Uncultivated heath and moorland cover about a quarter of Exmoor landscape. Some moors are covered by a variety of grasses and sedges , while others are dominated by heather . There are also cultivated areas including the Brendon Hills , which lie in
8624-522: The natural beauty, wildlife and cultural heritage of the National Parks" and "promote opportunities for the understanding and enjoyment of the special qualities of the parks by the public", including responsibility for the conservation of the historic environment. The Park Authority receives 80% of its funding as a direct grant from the government. The Park Authority Committee consists of members from parish and county councils, and six appointed by
8736-469: The need for a controlled regime of grazing and burning; farmers claim that these regimes are not practical or effective in the long term. The National Park Authority operates CareMoor for Exmoor as an opportunity for those that appreciate the area to give back, with donations supporting conservation and access projects. Sightseeing , walking , cycling and mountain biking taking in Exmoor's dramatic heritage coastline and moorland countryside scenery are
8848-511: The office of steward of Exmoor. The terms steward, warden and forester appear to be synonymous for the king's chief officer of the royal forest. The first recorded wardens were Dodo, Almer & Godric who were named in the Domesday Book (1086) as "foresters of Widepolla", Withypool having been the ancient capital of the forest. The family of Denys were associated with Ilchester and "Petherton" . William of Wrotham, who died in 1217,
8960-482: The persons who formerly possessed rights over the Forest, 12 ⁄ 22 nds of the whole remained the property of the King, which equated to 10,262 1 ⁄ 4 acres, and was formally allotted to him as his personal property in the same way as the other shares went to the traditional graziers and owner of the tithes ( Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, 10th Baronet (1787–1871), of Holnicote , who received 1 ⁄ 8 th of
9072-513: The public body responsible for England's natural environment. Neighbouring natural regions include The Culm to the southwest, the Devon Redlands to the south and the Vale of Taunton and Quantock Fringes to the east. Exmoor was designated a National Park in 1954, under the 1949 National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act . The Exmoor National Park is primarily an upland area with
9184-660: The public to witness a day of traditional country entertainment. The attractions of Exmoor include 208 Scheduled monuments , 16 conservation areas, and other open access land as designated by the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000 . Exmoor receives approximately 1.4 million visitor days per year which include single day visits and those for longer periods. The Exmoor National Park Authority operates three Exmoor National Park Centres in Dulverton, Dunster and Lynmouth to provide information and inspiration for users of
9296-405: The remaining estate with the large borrowing required to meet the tax bill. She did, however, retain what she termed "the heart of the Exmoor estate" and started to farm this land in-hand using her own employees, not renewing tenancies on farms when they expired. She established five large flocks of sheep and two large cattle herds, the latter based at Cornham and Simonsbath Barton. Simonsbath sawmill
9408-666: The river valleys, such as the ancient clapper bridge at Tarr Steps and the Snowdrop Valley near Wheddon Cross , which is carpeted in snowdrops in February and, later, displays bluebells . Withypool is also in the Barle Valley, the Two Moors Way passes through the village. As well as Dunster Castle , Dunster's other attractions include a priory, dovecote , yarn market, inn, packhorse bridge , mill and
9520-464: The said forest (which farm is enclosed & separated from the unenclosed land) containing by estimation 108 a(cres) 2 r(ods) 0 p(erches) & these several allotments of waste land situated in the center of the said forest contiguous & adjoining to each other and to the farm above mentioned & numbered on the map 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40 and 41 and containing in the whole 10,262 a(cres) 1 r(od) 6 p(erches). In one lot". The highest bidder
9632-502: The site may be from 1552. A restored Victorian water-powered sawmill in the village, which was damaged in the floods of 1992, has now been purchased by the National Park and returned to working order, making the footpath signs, gates, stiles, and bridges for various sites in the National Park. The reversion of the Simonsbath estate, (referred to also as the "Exmoor estate" by the Fortescues) comprising about 20,000 acres of Exmoor,
9744-492: The small town. Snowfall is very variable from year to year and ranges from 23 days on the high moors to about 6 on coastal areas. November to March have the highest mean wind speeds, with June to August having the lightest winds. The wind comes mostly from the south-west. There are two Met Office Weather stations recording climate data within Exmoor: Liscombe and Nettlecombe. There is evidence of occupation of
9856-601: The south ( English Channel ) coast of Devon. It has several tributaries which arise on Exmoor. The River Barle runs from northern Exmoor to join the River Exe at Exebridge , Devon. The river and the Barle Valley are both designated as biological Sites of Special Scientific Interest. Another tributary, the River Haddeo , flows from the Wimbleball Lake . Most other rivers arising on Exmoor flow north to
9968-551: The south-western flanks of Exmoor and is the major tributary of the River Taw , which itself flows northward from Dartmoor . Badgworthy Water is one of the small rivers running north to the coast and is associated with the Lorna Doone legends. Along with the rest of South West England , Exmoor has a temperate climate which is generally wetter and milder than the rest of England. The mean annual temperature at Simonsbath
10080-594: The species earmarked for planting is the nearly extinct Devon whitebeam , a tree found only in England's West Country and in Ireland . It can reproduce without fertilization and once had its edible fruit sold as "sorb apples" in Devon markets. Sheep have grazed on the moors for more than 3,000 years, shaping much of the Exmoor landscape by feeding on moorland grasses and heather. Traditional breeds include Exmoor Horn , Cheviot and Whiteface Dartmoor and Greyface Dartmoor sheep. North Devon cattle are also farmed in
10192-488: The standing stones. Holwell Castle, at Parracombe, was a Norman motte-and-bailey castle built to guard the junction of the east–west and north–south trade routes, enabling movement of people and goods and the growth of the population. Alternative explanations for its construction suggest it may have been constructed to obtain taxes at the River Heddon bridging place, or to protect and supervise silver mining in
10304-610: The sum of £50,000. Knight set about converting the Royal Forest, now known as Exmoor National Park , into agricultural land. He and especially his son Frederick, who assumed management in 1841, erected most of the large farms in the central section of the moor and built 22 miles (35 km) of metalled access roads to Simonsbath. He built a 29 miles (47 km) wall around his estate, much of which still survives. Shortly after 1879 Hugh Fortescue, 4th Earl Fortescue (1854–1932) of nearby Castle Hill, Filleigh in Devon, Master of
10416-618: The sun heating the land surface more than the sea, sometimes forms rain clouds and at that time of year a large proportion of the rainfall comes from showers and thunderstorms . Annual precipitation varies from 800 mm (31 in) in the east of the park to over 2,000 mm (79 in) at The Chains. However, in the 24 hours of 16 August 1952, more than 225 mm (8.9 in) of rain fell at The Chains. This rainfall, which followed an exceptionally wet summer, led to disastrous flooding in Lynmouth with 34 dead and extensive damage to
10528-482: The total ), etc. In 1818 the following sales particulars were published by HM Commissioners of Woods, Forests and Land Revenues: "Particulars of a freehold farm belonging to His Majesty and of the allotments (tithe free) made to His Majesty on the Inclosure of Exmoor Forest in the counties of Somerset and Devon to be sold by public tender on 23d day of July 1818, viz. the farm called Simon's Bath Farm situated within
10640-493: The twin towns of Lynton and Lynmouth to Barnstaple , about 31 km (just over 19 miles) away. Further along the coast, Porlock is a quiet coastal town with an adjacent salt marsh nature reserve and a harbour at nearby Porlock Weir . Watchet is a historic harbour town with a marina and is home to a carnival, which is held annually in July. Inland, many of the attractions are small towns and villages or linked to
10752-452: The village is Exe Head , which is the source of the River Exe . It lies on peaty soils over rocks dating from the mid Devonian (to which this area gave its name) to early Carboniferous periods. Quartz and iron mineralisation can be detected in outcrops and subsoil. The Devonian Kentisbury Slates are exposed in the small quarry by white water. The mean annual temperature is 8.3 °C (47 °F). The average annual total rainfall
10864-403: Was John Knight of Lea Castle, Wolverley , Worcestershire, whose bid was £50,122. He thus acquired 10,262 1/4 acres, and soon thereafter set about buying up the allotments made to the former graziers and owner of the tithes. This brought his holding to about 20,000 acres. Knight was descended from a wealthy family of Ironmasters. Knight set about converting the Royal Forest, covering land now within
10976-418: Was a large team of domestic staff to serve the family, including butler, footman, valet, lady's maid, housemaids, cook, kitchen maids, a scullery maid and odd-job man, some of whom lived in the village. Much of her time was spent hunting on Exmoor with the rest of her family and her young cousins, the children of her uncle Hon. Denzil Fortescue, later the 6th Earl, who had rented nearby Emmett's Grange. In 1927
11088-441: Was accruing from the farming operations which comprised a 640-head home-bred suckler calf herd and a flock of 2,500 Scotch Blackface ewes. The asking price was £4 1/2 million. The sawmill is situated a hundred yards in front of Simonsbath House, close to the River Barle, from which a leat extends to drive the machinery. It was built by John Knight, between 1818 and 1841, and was refurbished by Viscount Ebrington in 1898. In 1996 it
11200-510: Was appointed by King Edward IV as Master Forester of the Forests of Exmoor and Neroche for life. Sir John Poyntz of Iron Acton , Gloucestershire, was warden or chief forester of Exmoor in 1568 when he brought an action in the Court of Exchequer against Henry Rolle (of Heanton Satchville, Petrockstowe ), the powerful lord of the manors of Exton, Hawkridge and Withypool. In 1608 Sir Hugh Pollard
11312-515: Was bought by Exmoor National Park Authority and was restored in 2002–03 with Heritage Lottery Funding, with the intention of using it to make gates and footpath signposts. However, in 2010 production was ceased, and it is now in the care of a volunteer group. It is a very rare survival of an estate sawmill that still retains its 19th-century machinery. The civil parish of Exmoor has its own parish council which has responsibility for local issues, including setting an annual precept (local rate) to cover
11424-451: Was built originally as the home-farm for Simonsbath House, and is situated nearby. The land offered comprised 2,080 acres freehold and a further 3,788 acres rented under a grazing licence from Exmoor National Park expiring in 2031. Also included was a five-bedroom house, another of four bedrooms, and a range of buildings and cottages. The land was then generating £378,333 per annum in government farming grants and subsidies, whilst further profit
11536-716: Was closed down as it was unprofitable. In 1989 Lady Margaret handed over the family estates to her daughter the Countess of Arran, who, later on, sold the remainder of the Simonsbath estate, namely the Barton and Cornham, to John Ewart, a keen follower of the Staghounds, whilst Exmoor National Park purchased much of the moorland. Some of the houses, however, were retained where occupied by retired Fortescue employees. In June 2006 Ewart offered Simonsbath Barton estate for sale via estate agents Savills and Strutt & Parker. This estate
11648-443: Was forester temp. under Henry VI, between 1422 and 1461. William de Botreaux, 3rd Baron Botreaux was appointed in 1435 warden of the forests of Exmoor and Neroche for life by Richard Duke of York . The Botreaux family had long held the manor of Molland at the southern edge of Exmoor, but were probably resident mainly at North Cadbury in Somerset. On 10 May 1461 William Bourchier, 9th Baron FitzWarin , feudal baron of Bampton
11760-427: Was granted a charter in the 13th century, however foresters who managed the area were identified in the Domesday Book . In the Middle Ages sheep farming was common with a system of agistment licensing the grazing of livestock as the Inclosure Acts divided up the land. The area is now used for a range of recreational purposes. Exmoor has been designated as a national character area (No. 145) by Natural England ,
11872-524: Was killed in October 2010. The moorland habitat is also home to hundreds of species of birds and insects . Birds seen on the moor include merlin , peregrine falcon , Eurasian curlew , European stonechat, dipper , Dartford warbler and ring ouzel . Black grouse and red grouse are now extinct on Exmoor, probably as a result of a reduction in habitat management, and for the former species, an increase in visitor pressure. The Beast of Exmoor
11984-493: Was named as chief forester in a suit brought before the Court of Exchequer by his deputy William Pincombe. James Butler, 1st Duke of Ormonde , was named as Keeper of Exmoor Forest in 1660 and 1661. James Boevey was a forester in the 17th century. Sir Richard Acland (or possibly Sir Thomas Dyke Acland) was the last forester up to 1818. One of the roles of the Warden was Master of Staghounds and this role continued to be exercised by
12096-539: Was previously in the district of West Somerset , which was formed on 1 April 1974 under the Local Government Act 1972 , and part of Dulverton Rural District before that. The district council is responsible for local planning and building control , local roads, council housing , environmental health , markets and fairs, refuse collection and recycling , cemeteries and crematoria , leisure services, parks, and tourism . Somerset County Council
12208-485: Was purchased from Sir Frederick Knight, following the early death of his only son Frederick Sebright Winn Knight, JP, Deputy Lieutenant of Somerset, in 1879, aged only 28, by Viscount Ebrington, the future Hugh Fortescue, 4th Earl Fortescue (1854–1932), whose family's principal seat was Castle Hill , Filleigh , ten miles SW of Simonsbath. It is thought he was mainly motivated in his purchase by his great fondness for stag-hunting; he served as master, and later chairman, of
12320-446: Was sold off in 1818. Several areas within the Exmoor National Park have been declared Sites of Special Scientific Interest due to their flora and fauna. This title earns the site some legal protection from development, damage and neglect. In 1993 an environmentally sensitive area was established within Exmoor. It is known as a perfect place for stargazing . In 2011, it was designated Europe's first International Dark Sky Reserve by
12432-406: Was steward of the forests of Exmoor and North Petherton, Somerset. Walter and Robert were named as foresters of Exmoor when they witnessed an early 13th-century grant to Forde Abbey . In 1276 the jurors of Brushford manor made a complaint about John de Camera in the Court of Exchequer in which he was described as forester of Exmoor. William Lucar of "Wythecomb", the brother of Elizabeth Lucar ,
12544-428: Was the only house in the forest. After the death of Boevey and his wife the house was sold with the Exmoor estate to Robert Siderfin of Luxborough . Siderfin used the grazing rights he gained on the estate but let the house to tenants, one of which was John Dennicombe, who allowed the house to fall into disrepair, and was eventually evicted, but only after he had burnt much of the wood panelling and other fixtures within
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