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100-437: A frog , pankou ( simplified Chinese : 盘扣 ; traditional Chinese : 盤扣 ; pinyin : pánkòu ), Chinese frog closure or decorative toggle is a type of ornamental garment closure. Made from braiding , cord, fabric, or covered wire, they consist of a decorative knot button (a Chinese button knot for a traditional Chinese style) and a loop; it is used to fasten garments without creating an overlap. Its purpose

200-443: A component—either a character or a sub-component called a radical —usually involves either a reduction in its total number of strokes , or an apparent streamlining of which strokes are chosen in what places—for example, the ⼓   ' WRAP ' radical used in the traditional character 沒 is simplified to ⼏   ' TABLE ' to form the simplified character 没 . By systematically simplifying radicals, large swaths of

300-529: A concealed opening beneath it and the original jacket opening becoming a false detail. By the later 19th century, for lower grade uniforms down to postal deliverers , telegraph boys and hotel pages , the frogging cordage would be retained as a decoration but there would be no corresponding toggle or opening with it. In the United States , the frog fasteners were adopted during the War of 1812 ; however when

400-531: A contrasting colour: they serve as decorative structural elements on the garment. Frogs can be made by looping and interlocking the cording or fabric tube into the desired design, then securing the places where the cords touch by hand-sewing . The frog is then stitched onto a garment, usually by hand. When a fabric tube is used, the fabric is cut on the bias . This allows the fabric tube to remain smooth and flex easily when bent into curves. Frogs are now key elements in cheongsam representing its "soul" and provide

500-434: A conversion table. While exercising such derivation, the following rules should be observed: Sample Derivations : The Series One List of Variant Characters reduces the number of total standard characters. First, amongst each set of variant characters sharing identical pronunciation and meaning, one character (usually the simplest in form) is elevated to the standard character set, and the rest are made obsolete. Then amongst

600-419: A distinctive Chinese character to the dress; they are typically sewed at the centre of the mandarin collar and along the diagonal slanted (S-shaped) opening. They are also used in other garments, such as tangzhuang , gua (jacket) including those used in the qungua , and the changshan , etc. The frogs which are used in the making of the cheongsam , are typically made from silk or from

700-407: A few revised forms, and was implemented for official use by China's State Council on 5 June 2013. In Chinese, simplified characters are referred to by their official name 简化字 ; jiǎnhuàzì , or colloquially as 简体字 ; jiǎntǐzì . The latter term refers broadly to all character variants featuring simplifications of character form or structure, a practice which has always been present as

800-522: A form an undershirt. According to Li Shizhen, who quoted the Zhiguzi 《 炙轂子 》by Wang Rui, the hanshan used to called zhongdan ( 中單 ), an inner unlined garment; it changed name when the zhongdan of King Han was seeped with sweat when the latter fought with Xiang yu . The term ao ( 袄 ; 襖 ) appears in a Sui dynasty rime dictionary called Qieyun , published in 601 AD and can be translated as "padded coat", but it can also refer to

900-454: A lined upper garment. The term ao was sometimes used to refer to thicker forms of jacket which could be used as winter clothing. A jia ao ( 夹袄 ), for example, was a lined jacket which was used by Han Chinese women as winter clothing; the jia ao was typically worn on top of a long-length qun underneath. The term xi ( Chinese : 褶 ; lit. ' coat '), sometimes pronounced zhe ( 褶 ), also exists and

1000-610: A newly coined phono-semantic compound : Removing radicals Only retaining single radicals Replacing with ancient forms or variants : Adopting ancient vulgar variants : Readopting abandoned phonetic-loan characters : Copying and modifying another traditional character : Based on 132 characters and 14 components listed in Chart 2 of the Complete List , the 1,753 derived characters found in Chart 3 can be created by systematically simplifying components using Chart 2 as

1100-463: A padded jacket, which is soft and warm; a danru ( simplified Chinese : 襌(单)襦 ; traditional Chinese : 襌(單)襦 ; lit. 'unlined jacket') is described as being similar to a ru which does not have cotton wadding. There is also the term changru ( simplified Chinese : 长襦 ; traditional Chinese : 長襦 ; pinyin : chángrú ; lit. 'long jacket') which appear in texts and has been described as

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1200-573: A part of the Chinese writing system. The official name tends to refer to the specific, systematic set published by the Chinese government, which includes not only simplifications of individual characters, but also a substantial reduction in the total number of characters through the merger of formerly distinct forms. According to Chinese palaeographer Qiu Xigui , the broadest trend in the evolution of Chinese characters over their history has been simplification, both in graphical shape ( 字形 ; zìxíng ),

1300-441: A similar decorative fastener from Hungarian Hussars (who possibly had adapted them from earlier Chinese or Ottoman styles, or may have independently developed an analogous fastener) which then began to appear on the civilian clothing of both genders, such as overcoats , spencers , and pelisses . Frog fasteners are usual to garments of Asian design, such as a shirt or coat with a mandarin collar , which features frog fasteners at

1400-540: A tight jacket or a cotton-padded jacket, which could have embroidered golden line as embellishment at the collar and sleeves or could sometimes be decorated with silk damask . Duijin shan were also worn by women in this period; a form of duijin shan was the daxiushan which became popular when the Hufu -style declined in popularity. In the Song dynasty , the daxiushan (shirt with large/broad sleeves)

1500-440: Is actually more complex than eliminated ones. An example is the character 搾 which is eliminated in favor of the variant form 榨 . The 扌   'HAND' with three strokes on the left of the eliminated 搾 is now seen as more complex, appearing as the ⽊   'TREE' radical 木 , with four strokes, in the chosen variant 榨 . Not all characters standardised in the simplified set consist of fewer strokes. For instance,

1600-444: Is also a form of changru . Other forms of changru included the shuhe ( Chinese : 裋褐 ; lit. 'coarse clothing') which jiaolingyouren and could reach the knee- or the hip-level. Other terms, such as daru ( Chinese : 大襦 ; lit. 'outerwear'), shangru ( Chinese : 上襦 ; lit. 'jacket'), and yiru ( Chinese : 衣襦 ), also exist. According to

1700-435: Is cross-collared closing on the right side, dajin or xiejin when it has an overlapping big oblique lapel, pianjin when it has a slanted, big lapel, fangling when it is squared collared, and yuanling when it is round collared. It can also be found with or without a standing collar , which is referred as liling or shuling . The standing collars started to be incorporated in upper garments by

1800-454: Is derived. Merging homophonous characters: Adapting cursive shapes ( 草書楷化 ): Replacing a component with a simple arbitrary symbol (such as 又 and 乂 ): Omitting entire components : Omitting components, then applying further alterations : Structural changes that preserve the basic shape Replacing the phonetic component of phono-semantic compounds : Replacing an uncommon phonetic component : Replacing entirely with

1900-813: Is now discouraged. A State Language Commission official cited "oversimplification" as the reason for restoring some characters. The language authority declared an open comment period until 31 August 2009, for feedback from the public. In 2013, the List of Commonly Used Standard Chinese Characters was published as a revision of the 1988 lists; it included a total of 8105 characters. It included 45 newly recognized standard characters that were previously considered variant forms, as well as official approval of 226 characters that had been simplified by analogy and had seen wide use but were not explicitly given in previous lists or documents. Singapore underwent three successive rounds of character simplification , eventually arriving at

2000-438: Is perceived as the male element, while its paired loop is considered the female. Ready-made frogs are available for purchase, but the range of styles is generally narrow. Sewers may make their own, in a variety of styles, customizing them for their end use. Braid, cord-filled bias tubing, or fabric-covered wire is used to fashion the customized frogs or pankou. They can be made from self-fabric to match, but many are chosen to be

2100-623: Is referred to as the " big seal script ". The traditional narrative, as also attested in the Shuowen Jiezi dictionary ( c.  100 AD ), is that the Qin small seal script that would later be imposed across China was originally derived from the Zhou big seal script with few modifications. However, the body of epigraphic evidence comparing the character forms used by scribes gives no indication of any real consolidation in character forms prior to

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2200-474: Is to act as a fastener as well as providing a decorative closure for the garment. It is especially used on the cheongsam , where the pankou represents the cultural essence of the dress. The frog was first developed in China ; the origin of its later spread, into Europe and beyond, is uncertain. Loop-and-knot fasteners may have developed independently in other cultures. In Western Europe , military uniforms adopted

2300-421: Is typically associated with the upper garment worn in military clothing called kuzhe/kuxi . The ru is a form of jacket or coat, which typically closes to the right and is described as being youren . However, some styles can be found with a front central opening which can be referred as duijin ( 对领 ) or zhiling ( 直领 ). The ru can also be classified as jiaolingyouren when it

2400-547: Is used instead of 叠 in regions using traditional characters. The Chinese government stated that it wished to keep Chinese orthography stable. The Chart of Generally Utilized Characters of Modern Chinese was published in 1988 and included 7000 simplified and unsimplified characters. Of these, half were also included in the revised List of Commonly Used Characters in Modern Chinese , which specified 2500 common characters and 1000 less common characters. In 2009,

2500-614: The Ben Cang Gang Mu 《 本草綱目 》written by Li Shizhen 's time (1518 – 1593 AD), in ancient times, an unlined short garment, duanru ( 短襦 ; 'short jacket'), was called shan ( 衫 ); and in the time of Li Shizhen's time, the shan also came to refer to long garments ( simplified Chinese : 长衣 ; traditional Chinese : 長衣 ; pinyin : chángyī ; lit. 'long clothes'). The term hanshan ( Chinese : 汗衫 ; pinyin : hànshān ; lit. ' sweat shirt') typically refers to

2600-573: The furu was similar to the paofu in form. In the Han dynasty , short waist-length ru could be worn with trousers or skirts by men and women respectively. In the Han and Wei dynasties, the sleeves of the ru could be wide or narrow; the ru was closed to the right. A form of shan which appeared in the Han and Wei period was a new type of gown which had equal front pieces which were straight instead of being jiaolingyouren and

2700-467: The jiaolingyouren yi ( 交領右衽 衣 ; jiāolǐngyòurèn yī ) may have some differences and variations in terms of features depending on time period and styles of upper garment. For example, a style of Ming dynasty jiaolingyouren yi have the following features: The traditional way to distinguish between Hufu and Hanfu is by looking at the direction of the collar. In Ancient China, some ethnic minorities had clothing which generally closed on

2800-530: The zimukou of the Ming dynasty had a significant impact on the history of Chinese fashion as they did not only laid the foundation of the subsequent usage of a large number and variety of frog but also led to the emergence and the popularity of the Chinese high-standing collar (and its derivative, the Mandarin collar ) along with a variety of duijin yi (upper garment with central front closure) which uses

2900-670: The Chinese language , with the other being traditional characters . Their mass standardization during the 20th century was part of an initiative by the People's Republic of China (PRC) to promote literacy, and their use in ordinary circumstances on the mainland has been encouraged by the Chinese government since the 1950s. They are the official forms used in mainland China and Singapore , while traditional characters are officially used in Hong Kong , Macau , and Taiwan . Simplification of

3000-545: The Eastern Han , the ru was the most common form of short robe for both men and women; however, the ru was preferred by women afterwards. The long ru could reach the knee-level whereas the short ru was waist-length. The ru could be found unlined, lined or padded. The jiaolingyouren yi ( 交領右衽 衣 ) started to be worn in the Shang dynasty . According to historical documents and archaeological findings,

3100-618: The Liao dynasty . The only moment Han Chinese is supposed to use zuoren is when they dressed their deceased. This is due to ancient Chinese beliefs in the Yin and Yang theory, where it is believed that the left is the Yang aspect and stands for life whereas the right is the Yin which stands for death. Based on this belief, the left lapel needs to be outside (i.e. youren -style) to indicate that

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3200-507: The Liao dynasty ; these jackets were waist-length. Both the jiaolingyouren and the jiaolingzuoren jackets for women coexisted in the Yuan dynasty . The wearing of zuoren (instead of youren ) was common in the Yuan dynasty. Han Chinese women also wore jia ao ( 夹袄 ), a form of lined jacket, typically over a long-length qun underneath as winter clothing . Following

3300-569: The Song dynasty when fabric was braided into braid buckles to create the loop and the button knot . The braided buckles of the Song dynasty continued to be used in the Yuan dynasty . However, in the Ming dynasty , interlocking buckles known as zimukou ( Chinese : 子母扣 ; lit. 'child mother button'), which could be made out of gold and silver, first appeared and came in various shapes and styles. The zimukou also became one of

3400-501: The "Dot" stroke : The traditional components ⺥ and 爫 become ⺈ : The traditional component 奐 becomes 奂 : Ru (upper garment) The shape and structure of Chinese upper garments, generally referred as yi ( 衣 ), varied depending on the time period. Garments that overlap and close to the right originated in China and are called youren ( Chinese : 右衽 ; pinyin : yòurèn ; lit. 'right lapel'). The style of yi which overlaps at

3500-459: The "external appearances of individual graphs", and in graphical form ( 字体 ; 字體 ; zìtǐ ), "overall changes in the distinguishing features of graphic[al] shape and calligraphic style, [...] in most cases refer[ring] to rather obvious and rather substantial changes". The initiatives following the founding of the Qin dynasty (221–206 BC) to universalize the use of their small seal script across

3600-464: The 17th–19th centuries. This was particularly evident for prestigious regiments, especially cavalry or hussars , and gave rise to the German term for frogging in general, Husarentressen . These dolman jackets were tight-fitting and dominated by extensive frogging, often in luxurious materials such as gold, silver or brass metallic cording or brocades. With the wide-reaching campaigns of Napoleon ,

3700-482: The 1986 General List of Simplified Chinese Characters , hereafter the General List . All characters simplified this way are enumerated in Chart 1 and Chart 2 in the 1986 Complete List . Characters in both charts are structurally simplified based on similar set of principles. They are separated into two charts to clearly mark those in Chart 2 as 'usable as simplified character components', based on which Chart 3

3800-520: The 1986 mainland China revisions. Unlike in mainland China, Singapore parents have the option of registering their children's names in traditional characters. Malaysia also promulgated a set of simplified characters in 1981, though completely identical to the mainland Chinese set. They are used in Chinese-language schools. All characters simplified this way are enumerated in Charts 1 and 2 of

3900-470: The Chinese government published a major revision to the list which included a total of 8300 characters. No new simplifications were introduced. In addition, slight modifications to the orthography of 44 characters to fit traditional calligraphic rules were initially proposed, but were not implemented due to negative public response. Also, the practice of unrestricted simplification of rare and archaic characters by analogy using simplified radicals or components

4000-680: The French military was often in extensive contact with different cultures and styles. Observing the use of frog closures in the Hungarian military and other eastern cultures, the French Military adopted them for own military garments. The French were influential in the spread of frogging throughout Europe and into the Americas. The frogging was often far more than was necessary for fastening. In some cases it even became non-functional, with

4100-660: The Joseon women's clothing trend which he claimed to be taking more after Mongolian in style, an influence which he attributed to the close relationship between Goryeo and the Yuan dynasty and continued to exist in Joseon during his lifetime. After the Mid-Qing dynasty, Manchu clothing, called qizhuang , started to influence the women's hanfu. In the late 18th and 19th century, there was a dramatic shift in fashion aesthetics. New silhouettes were recorded in various pictorial and written sources, which were different from those worn in

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4200-405: The Ming dynasty (i.e. loose and long layered jackets and skirts which were more unstructured ), with the appearance of wider and more structured forms of Han Chinese women's jackets (including shan , ao , and gua ). The trend in this period was characterized on the emphasis on decorative trims and accessories which were modular and could be easily produced, purchased and then applied on

4300-454: The Ming dynasty customs were gradually forgotten. The clothing of the Han and the Manchu eventually influenced each other. However, Manchu women and Han Chinese women never emulated each other's clothing; and as a result, by the end of the nineteenth century, Manchu and Han Chinese women had maintained distinctive clothing. In the early Qing, Han women continued wearing Ming dynasty hanfu; in

4400-587: The Ming dynasty, the ao as a long jacket became more prevalent at the expense of the short ru . According to the Discourse of Northern Learning ( Pukhak ŭi; 北學議: 완역정본) by Pak Chega (1750–1805) who visited the Qing dynasty in 1778, in the Ming dynasty, Chinese women's upper garment barely covered the waist during the Hongzhi era (1488–1505); their upper garments then gradually became longer and reached below

4500-528: The River by Zhang Zeduan. This painting depicts the clothing worn by people holding different social status, ranks, and occupation: the jackets worn as outer garments were all short, about knee-length or shorter, when worn by coolies, pedlars, peasants, and boat people and children who peddled dried fruits wore short white shan. Song dynasty-style fashion, including jiaolingyouren jackets, continued to be worn by both Han Chinese and non-elite Khitan women in

4600-614: The South, the jiaoling ao and shan continued to be worn with long skirts by most women while in the North, trousers were more common. In the mid-Qing clothing, fashionable styles were associated to those worn in the late 16th and early 17th century. According to the Discourse of Northern Learning ( Pukhak ŭi; 北學議: 완역정본) by Pak Chega (1750–1805) who visited the Qing dynasty in 1778, Chinese women wore upper and lower garments which were similar to those worn in ancient paintings. Pak described

4700-417: The army regulations tried to promote a less European look, it was decided that the elaborate and complex frog fasteners would be replaced with more simple cotton cord loops. The frog or pankou is composed of two parts: a Chinese button knot or other decorative knot (or even a toggle) on one side; and a loop attached on the opposite side, through which the knot is passed and which holds it in place. The knot

4800-532: The basic form of clothing during Shang was yichang . In the Shang dynasty, the yi was long reaching the knee-level and would be worn over a skirt called chang ; the yi worn by slaveholders had tight sleeves and were also closed on the right side following the youren -style. In the Zhou dynasty , there were various forms of yi as a generic term of upper garments. A typical form of yi

4900-502: The character ru 《 襦 》refers to a 'short coat'. The Shuowen also described the ru as being a form of duanyi ( Chinese : 短衣 ; lit. 'short clothing'. It is also described as a common form of duanyi in the Guangyun . In the Han dynasty , the ru could be unlined, lined or padded. According to the Shiming , a ru is

5000-428: The character set are altered. Some simplifications were based on popular cursive forms that embody graphic or phonetic simplifications of the traditional forms. In addition, variant characters with identical pronunciation and meaning were reduced to a single standardized character, usually the simplest among all variants in form. Finally, many characters were left untouched by simplification and are thus identical between

5100-407: The chosen variants, those that appear in the "Complete List of Simplified Characters" are also simplified in character structure accordingly. Some examples follow: Sample reduction of equivalent variants : Ancient variants with simple structure are preferred : Simpler vulgar forms are also chosen : The chosen variant was already simplified in Chart 1 : In some instances, the chosen variant

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5200-460: The climate changes during the Ming dynasty (i.e. the average temperature was low in China). There were at least two types of high collar jackets in the Ming dynasty: liling duijin shan ( Chinese : 立领对襟衫 ) which is jacket with high collar and closes at the front centrally, and liling dajin changshan ( Chinese : 立领大襟长衫 ) which is a long jacket with stand-up collar, it overlaps from

5300-600: The clothing (including robes, jackets, and skirts); those forms of modular features included collars, sleeve-bands and border decorations. The borders decoration in contrasting colours were used throughout the clothing history of China and were recorded early on in history (e.g. in the Liji ). During this period, auspicious symbols and narrative scenery were especially made into embroidered roundels and borders and became fashionable in Han Chinese women's clothing; this new trend

5400-473: The country's writing system as a serious impediment to its modernization. In 1916, a multi-part English-language article entitled "The Problem of the Chinese Language" co-authored by the Chinese linguist Yuen Ren Chao (1892–1982) and poet Hu Shih (1891–1962) has been identified as a turning point in the history of the Chinese script—as it was one of the first clear calls for China to move away from

5500-455: The early Republic of China , the dajin youren ao were found with narrow sleeves; the length of the sleeves could be found wrist-length, and higher standing collar (e.g. saddle/ingot collar or ear-length collar). These high collars were gradually lowered. After the May 4th Movement , these high collars were abandoned due to their inconvenience. In the 1920s, the jackets had curved lower hem at

5600-476: The early 20th century. In 1909, the educator and linguist Lufei Kui formally proposed the use of simplified characters in education for the first time. Over the following years—marked by the 1911 Xinhai Revolution that toppled the Qing dynasty , followed by growing social and political discontent that further erupted into the 1919 May Fourth Movement —many anti-imperialist intellectuals throughout China began to see

5700-482: The emergence and the popularity of the standup collar and the Chinese jacket with buttons at the front, and laid the foundation of the use of Chinese knot buckles . In women garments of the Ming dynasty, the standup collar with gold and silver zimukou became one of the most distinctive and popular form of clothing structure; it became commonly used in women's clothing reflecting the conservative concept of Ming women's chastity by keeping their bodies covered and due to

5800-406: The end of the Yuan dynasty , the wearing of zuoren in women's clothing persisted in the Ming dynasty for at least Chinese women who lived in the province of Shanxi . Ming dynasty portrait paintings showing Chinese women dressing in zuoren jackets appeared to be characteristic of ancestral portraits from the province of Shanxi and most likely in the areas neighbouring the province. In

5900-415: The favourite fashion accessory items of the Ming dynasty Chinese women. These interlocking buckles were not only functional as garments fasteners or as garment ornaments; they also expressed and symbolized the wishes and inspirations of its wearer, such as the longing of a better life; the wishes for a sweet and loving marital relationship through the theme of butterflies and flower ( Chinese : 蝶采花 );

6000-634: The first official list of simplified forms was published, consisting of 324 characters collated by Peking University professor Qian Xuantong . However, fierce opposition within the KMT resulted in the list being rescinded in 1936. Work throughout the 1950s resulted in the 1956 promulgation of the Chinese Character Simplification Scheme , a draft of 515 simplified characters and 54 simplified components, whose simplifications would be present in most compound characters. Over

6100-463: The first round—but was massively unpopular and never saw consistent use. The second round of simplifications was ultimately retracted officially in 1986, well after they had largely ceased to be used due to their unpopularity and the confusion they caused. In August 2009, China began collecting public comments for a revised list of simplified characters; the resulting List of Commonly Used Standard Chinese Characters lists 8,105 characters, including

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6200-475: The following decade, the Script Reform Committee deliberated on characters in the 1956 scheme, collecting public input regarding the recognizability of variants, and often approving forms in small batches. Parallel to simplification, there were also initiatives aimed at eliminating the use of characters entirely and replacing them with pinyin as an official Chinese alphabet, but this possibility

6300-511: The founding of the Qin. The Han dynasty (202 BC – 220 AD) that inherited the Qin administration coincided with the perfection of clerical script through the process of libian . Eastward spread of Western learning Though most closely associated with the People's Republic, the idea of a mass simplification of character forms first gained traction in China during

6400-509: The frog on the front over the succeeding centuries. The frog, like its Ming dynasty predecessor, the zimukou , also come in all kind of styles and shapes and continue to retain traditional Chinese designs and cultural meanings rooted deeply in traditional Chinese culture; these designs include auspicious symbols , such as pomegranates which is represent fertility and the Chinese character shou 《 壽 》). Frogs and frogging became an important decorative feature on military uniforms from

6500-435: The front and back panels are connected by the shoulder, and the left and right pieces are more or less symmetrical. It has a front centre closure and then curves crossover to the right before secured with frog buttons in a style called pianjin . The front closing, collar, hem, and sleeves cuff have edging of contrasting pipings and side slits. The jackets could also be decorated with yunjian appliqué . There

6600-473: The front and closes on the right in a y-shape is known as jiaolingyouren ( Chinese : 交領右衽 ; pinyin : jiāolǐngyòurèn ; lit. 'intersecting collar right lapel') and first appeared in the Shang dynasty . Since then the jiaolingyouren yi has been one of the major symbols of the Sino Kingdom and eventually spread throughout Asia . The structure of the jackets worn in

6700-466: The increased usage of 朙 was followed by proliferation of a third variant: 眀 , with 目 'eye' on the left—likely derived as a contraction of 朙 . Ultimately, 明 became the character's standard form. The Book of Han (111 AD) describes an earlier attempt made by King Xuan of Zhou ( d.  782 BC ) to unify character forms across the states of ancient China , with his chief chronicler having "[written] fifteen chapters describing" what

6800-399: The jackets had collars which were round and narrow and were fastened just below the chin; he also described them as being typically long enough to conceal the entire body although in some cases, the jacket would be long enough to be just below the knee-level. Pak also observed that the Chinese women's clothing preserved the old traditions (which were mostly intact) and which he contrasted with

6900-644: The knee-level during the Zhengde era (1506–1521). Pak Chega based his description of Chinese women's clothing by using the Records of Daily Study ( Rizhilu ) by Gu Yanwu (1613–1682), a scholar from the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. By the late Ming dynasty, jackets with high collars , known as liling or shuling , started to appear. The standup collar were closed with interlocking buttons made of gold and silver, called zimukou ( Chinese : 子母扣 ). The appearance of interlocking buckle promoted

7000-551: The late Qing shared some features of those worn by the ethnic Han during the Ming dynasty . They continued to evolve and be worn in some form during the Republic of China . Since the 1930s, the popularity of traditional Han fashion declined in favor of the qipao and Western dress. It has regained prominence in the 21st century following the Hanfu movement . The term yi ( 衣 ) generally refers to clothing. In ancient times,

7100-437: The late Ming dynasty. The length of the bodice may vary; it can be waist-length or knee-length. Slits can also be found at both sides of the lower hems of the bodice. The length of the sleeves can vary in length, such as wrist-length and elbow length. The shapes of the sleeves can also vary, such as big sleeves, narrow sleeves, large cuffs, mandarin sleeves, flared sleeves. Clothing style which overlaps and closes to

7200-521: The left side in a way referred as zuoren ( Chinese : 左衽 ; pinyin : zuǒrèn ; lit. 'left lapel'). This can be found in the Analects where Confucius himself praised Guan Zhong for preventing the weakened Zhou dynasty from becoming barbarians: "But for Guan Zhong, we should now be wearing our hair unbound, and the lapels of our coats buttoning on the left side [微管仲，吾其被髮左衽矣]" Unbound hair and coats which were closed on

7300-472: The left side were associated with the clothing customs of the northern nomadic ethnic groups which were considered as barbarians by the Han Chinese. Therefore, the zuoren were used to refer to Hufu and/or refer to the rule of foreign nationalities. However, the youren rule was not always respected: for example, in some areas (such as Northern Hebei ) in the 10th century, some ethnic Han Chinese could also be found wearing zuoren clothing. It

7400-465: The left, with the 月 'Moon' component on the right. Li Si ( d.  208 BC ), the Chancellor of Qin, attempted to universalize the Qin small seal script across China following the wars that had politically unified the country for the first time. Li prescribed the 朙 form of the word for 'bright', but some scribes ignored this and continued to write the character as 明 . However,

7500-424: The long jacket ( ao ) was about below the hip level or at the knee level but were never as long as the Manchu robes, it was however longer than the waist-length jacket ( yaoru ) which appeared to have fallen from popularity during the 18th century. The dajin youren ao ( Chinese : 大襟右衽袄 ) continued to be worn. In the late Qing, these dajin youren ao had neither darts nor shoulder stitching;

7600-402: The most prominent Chinese authors of the 20th century, stated that "if Chinese characters are not destroyed, then China will die" ( 漢字不滅，中國必亡 ). During the 1930s and 1940s, discussions regarding simplification took place within the ruling Kuomintang (KMT) party. Many members of the Chinese intelligentsia maintained that simplification would increase literacy rates throughout the country. In 1935,

7700-436: The neck and closes at the right side. The liling dajin changshan is typically worn with a skirt, called mamianqun . As Han women were not forced to change into Manchu clothing in the Qing dynasty , Han women of the Qing dynasty followed the style of female jacket worn in the Ming dynasty . The Han Chinese women carefully maintained their pure Han Chinese ethnicity and did not wear Manchu clothing . Over time,

7800-448: The power of Yang is suppressing the Yin , which therefore symbolized the clothing of living people. However, if Yin surpasses Yang (i.e. zuoren -style), then clothing becomes the clothing worn by the deceased. It is therefore typically taboo in Chinese clothing for a living person to wear zuoren . Clothing style with youren ( 右衽 ; yòurèn ; 'right lapel') closure originated in China . Prior to

7900-403: The precursor of the chang ao by scholars. According to the Guangyun , however, the changru can also be a form of paofu . In the Zhou dynasty , a long ru was referred as the gua while the furu referred to ru with lining and which was similar to the paofu in terms of form. According to the Guangyun , a gua ( Chinese : 袿 )

8000-491: The presence or absence of lining. The ru ( 襦 ), when referring to a short jacket, can be found with either short or long sleeves. A short ru is also known as duanru ( Chinese : 短襦 ; lit. 'short jacket'); a type of duanru is the yaoru ( Chinese : 腰襦 ; lit. 'waist jacket') which is waist-length. In the Mawangdui Silk Manuscripts ,

8100-430: The public and quickly fell out of official use. It was ultimately formally rescinded in 1986. The second-round simplifications were unpopular in large part because most of the forms were completely new, in contrast to the familiar variants comprising the majority of the first round. With the rescission of the second round, work toward further character simplification largely came to an end. In 1986, authorities retracted

8200-465: The recently conquered parts of the empire is generally seen as being the first real attempt at script reform in Chinese history. Before the 20th century, variation in character shape on the part of scribes, which would continue with the later invention of woodblock printing , was ubiquitous. For example, prior to the Qin dynasty (221–206 BC) the character meaning 'bright' was written as either 明 or 朙 —with either 日 'Sun' or 囧 'window' on

8300-482: The right originated in China . Chinese robes and jackets must cover the right part in a style called youren ( 右衽 ; yòurèn ; 'right lapel'). The youren closure is an important symbol of the Han Chinese ethnicity . The jiaolingyouren yi ( 交領右衽 衣 ; jiāolǐngyòurèn yī ) had been one of the major symbols of the Sino Kingdom, and eventually spread throughout Asia. The structure of

8400-543: The same materials as the dress. To create the more elaborately-shaped buttons, a method called wiring is used to construct the desired shape. Frogs differ in shape and elaboration: The floral frog can further be divided into other categories based on shape: The frog used in the Beijing-style cheongsam are typically handmade by skilled artisans; the process of their making is complex and can take up several days of work. It can typically take up to 26 procedures for

8500-481: The same set of simplified characters as mainland China. The first round was promulgated by the Ministry of Education in 1969, consisting of 498 simplified characters derived from 502 traditional characters. A second round of 2287 simplified characters was promulgated in 1974. The second set contained 49 differences from the mainland China system; these were removed in the final round in 1976. In 1993, Singapore adopted

8600-467: The second round completely, though they had been largely fallen out of use within a year of their initial introduction. That year, the authorities also promulgated a final version of the General List of Simplified Chinese Characters . It was identical to the 1964 list save for 6 changes—including the restoration of 3 characters that had been simplified in the first round: 叠 , 覆 , 像 ; the form 疊

8700-469: The shoulder and down the front of the garment. In the design of a garment, frogging is the use of braided frog fasteners as a detail of the overall design of the garment. The frog is the end-product of thousands years of traditional Chinese knotting craft, which is itself rooted in the Lào zi culture. As a form of fastener, the frog first appeared on traditional Chinese clothing , and can be traced back to

8800-528: The silk to be turned into eligible strips of fabric which can then be turned into the fastening. These procedures include brushing silk four times with a paste to harden it, as well as the cutting of the hardened silk into strips, the stitching of the silk strips before the wiring procedure with copper wire, and the ironing of the silk strips under high temperature as its final stage. Simplified Chinese characters Simplified Chinese characters are one of two standardized character sets widely used to write

8900-618: The term yi referred to an upper outer garment. The term yi appeared in ancient texts to refer to upper garments, such as in the Luyi , in the Mao Commentary , in the Analects , and in the I Ching . The term ru ( 襦 ) has sometimes been used as a synonym word for the clothing items shan ( 衫 ) and ao ( 袄 ; 襖 ). The ru can refer to both a long or short jacket. The ru also had different names depending on its characteristics, such as its length and

9000-497: The traditional and simplified Chinese orthographies. The Chinese government has never officially announced the completion of the simplification process after the bulk of characters were introduced by the 1960s. In the wake of the Cultural Revolution , a second round of simplified characters was promulgated in 1977—largely composed of entirely new variants intended to artificially lower the stroke count, in contrast to

9100-833: The traditional character 強 , with 11 strokes is standardised as 强 , with 12 strokes, which is a variant character. Such characters do not constitute simplified characters. The new standardized character forms shown in the Characters for Publishing and revised through the Common Modern Characters list tend to adopt vulgar variant character forms. Since the new forms take vulgar variants, many characters now appear slightly simpler compared to old forms, and as such are often mistaken as structurally simplified characters. Some examples follow: The traditional component 釆 becomes 米 : The traditional component 囚 becomes 日 : The traditional "Break" stroke becomes

9200-522: The use of characters entirely. Instead, Chao proposed that the language be written with an alphabet, which he saw as more logical and efficient. The alphabetization and simplification campaigns would exist alongside one another among the Republican intelligentsia for the next several decades. Recent commentators have echoed some contemporary claims that Chinese characters were blamed for the economic problems in China during that time. Lu Xun , one of

9300-462: The wishes for a rich and wealthy life with the use of double silver ingots ( Chinese : 双银锭 ), and to express wishes for a long and healthy life with the theme of "Furong Flowers and Shou " ( Chinese : 芙蓉捧寿 ), which uses Furong flowers and the Chinese character shou 《 壽 》, as it is a homonym for the Chinese characters fu shou 《 福 壽 》which can literally be translated as " prosperity and longevity ". The development of

9400-520: Was a form of fashionable formal clothing. Song dynasty, women wore jiaolingyouren jackets and duijin jackets. The short ru was a daily garment item for women; the closures of the short ru were found either on the left or right of the front of the garment. Clothing worn by the Northern Song dynasty people living in Kaifeng are depicted in the on the painting Qingming Festival on

9500-464: Was abandoned, confirmed by a speech given by Zhou Enlai in 1958. In 1965, the PRC published the List of Commonly Used Characters for Printing  [ zh ] (hereafter Characters for Printing ), which included standard printed forms for 6196 characters, including all of the forms from the 1956 scheme. A second round of simplified characters was promulgated in 1977, but was poorly received by

9600-412: Was also a special form of ao called mangao, which was typically used as part of a type of Chinese wedding dress attire . The duijin ao (jackets with front opening) were also worn. The duijin ao in the 19th century could be round neck with no collar or have small stand-up collars. The jiaolingyouren yi continued to be worn in the Qing dynasty even in the 19th century by children. In

9700-468: Was also common for the Han Chinese women to adopt zuoren under the reign of foreign nationalities, such as in the Yuan dynasty ; the use of zuoren also continued in some areas of the Ming dynasty despite being Han-Chinese ruled dynasty, which is an atypical feature. Some non-Chinese ethnicities who also adopted Hanfu -style sometimes maintain their zuoren lapels, such as the Khitans in

9800-490: Was an influence of the late imperial secularization of arts and culture on textiles. They were also lavished with embroideries which were based on the Chinese symbolic system, which was itself based on Chinese language, mythology, customs, and literature, and belief system (e.g. Confucianist and Taoist motifs). The wide sleeves used in the upper garment were a heritage of the Ming dynasty and a distinctive feature which differentiated Hanfu from Manchu clothing. In terms of length,

9900-706: Was fastened with a string; it was also a form of unlined upper garment with straight sleeves and wide cuffs. This shan was worn by men and women and became popular as it was more convenient for wearing. The ru , shan , and ao were common garment items for women in the Tang dynasty . The ru (as a short jacket) and shan (as an unlined short robe) were used for ceremonial and daily clothing by women. Some jackets in Tang dynasty could be found with narrow sleeves, while other upper garments could be found with loose sleeves. The Tang dynasty ru could also be

10000-408: Was the ru . The ru had different names in this period depending on its characteristics such as length and lining: gua referred to the long-length ru ; yaoru ( 腰襦 ; 'waist jacket') referred to the short-length ru ; furu referred to the ru with a lining and was therefore suitable to protect its wearer from the cold in winter if it was filled with silk or flax;

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