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78-512: Ancient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin , which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics. The word perfume is derived from the Latin perfumare , meaning "to smoke through". Perfumery, as

156-780: A paper stating that vanillin residue had been discovered inside jars within a tomb in Israel dating to the 2nd millennium BCE, suggesting the possible cultivation of an unidentified, Old World-endemic Vanilla species in Canaan since the Middle Bronze Age . Traces of vanillin were also found in wine jars in Jerusalem , which were used by the Judahite elite before the city was destroyed in 586 BCE. Vanilla beans, called tlilxochitl, were discovered and cultivated as

234-427: A " Nez " (French for nose ) due to their fine sense of smell and skill in smell composition. The composition of a perfume typically begins with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer. The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashion houses or large corporations of various industries. The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple perfume mixtures and sell

312-592: A byproduct from the manufacture of cellulose via the sulfite process . The sole producer of wood-based vanillin is the company Borregaard located in Sarpsborg , Norway . Wood-based vanillin is produced by copper-catalyzed oxidation of the lignin structures in lignosulfonates under alkaline conditions and is claimed by the manufacturing company to be preferred by their customers due to, among other reasons, its much lower carbon footprint than petrochemically synthesized vanillin. The company Evolva has developed

390-669: A family of fresh, citrus-based fragrances distilled using extracts from citrus, floral, and woody ingredients. These "classical colognes" were supposedly first developed in Cologne, Germany , hence the name. This type of cologne, which is still in production, describes unisex compositions "which are basically citrus blends and do not have a perfume parent." Examples include Mäurer & Wirtz's 4711 (created in 1799), and Guerlain's Eau de Cologne Impériale (1830). "Toilet water," or eau de toilette, referred to wide range of scented waters not otherwise known as colognes, and were popular throughout

468-532: A flavoring for beverages by native Mesoamerican peoples, most famously the Totonacs of modern-day Veracruz , Mexico. Since at least the early 15th century, the Aztecs used vanilla as a flavoring for chocolate in drinks called xocohotl . Vanillin was first isolated as a relatively pure substance in 1858 by Théodore Nicolas Gobley , who obtained it by evaporating a vanilla extract to dryness and recrystallizing

546-487: A fragrance may have separate primary scents and supporting ingredients. The perfume's fragrance oils are then blended with ethyl alcohol and water, aged in tanks for several weeks and filtered through processing equipment to, respectively, allow the perfume ingredients in the mixture to stabilize and to remove any sediment and particles before the solution can be filled into the perfume bottles. Vanillin Vanillin

624-497: A genetically modified microorganism which can produce vanillin. Because the microbe is a processing aid , the resulting vanillin would not fall under U.S. GMO labeling requirements, and because the production is nonpetrochemical, food using the ingredient can claim to contain "no artificial ingredients". Using ferulic acid as an input and a specific non GMO species of Amycolatopsis bacteria, natural vanillin can be produced. Several studies have suggested that vanillin can affect

702-402: A guide to the general consumer in description of the experience of a scent. Nonetheless, connoisseurs of perfume can become extremely skillful at identifying components and origins of scents in the same manner as wine experts. The most practical way to start describing a perfume is according to the elements of the fragrance notes of the scent or the "family" it belongs to, all of which affect

780-429: A mix of water and ethanol. Various sources differ considerably in the definitions of perfume types. The intensity and longevity of a fragrance is based on the concentration, intensity, and longevity of the aromatic compounds, or perfume oils, used. As the percentage of aromatic compounds increases, so does the intensity and longevity of the scent. Specific terms are used to describe a fragrance's approximate concentration by

858-410: A more concentrated product, typically a pure parfum, and is usually the lightest concentration from a line of fragrance products. The eau de parfum concentration and terminology is the most recent, being originally developed to offer the radiance of an EdT with the longevity of an extrait. Parfum de toilette and EdP began to appear in the 1970s and gained popularity in the 1980s. In the 21st century, EdP

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936-484: A perfume can be constructed from a concept. Although many ingredients do not contribute to the smell of a perfume, many perfumes include colorants and antioxidants to improve the marketability and shelf life of the perfume, respectively. Perfume oils usually contain tens to hundreds of ingredients and these are typically organized in a perfume for the specific role they will play. These ingredients can be roughly grouped into four groups: The top, middle, and base notes of

1014-402: A retro-aldol elimination to afford vanillin. Vanillin can also be produced from vanilla glycoside with the additional final step of deglycosylation. In the past p -hydroxybenzaldehyde was speculated to be a precursor for vanillin biosynthesis. However, a 2014 study using radiolabelled precursor indicated that p -hydroxybenzaldehyde is not used to synthesise vanillin or vanillin glucoside in

1092-531: A richer flavor profile than that from guaiacol-based artificial vanilla; the difference is due to the presence of acetovanillone , a minor component in the lignin-derived product that is not found in vanillin synthesized from guaiacol. Although it is generally accepted that vanilla was domesticated in Mesoamerica and subsequently spread to the Old World in the 16th century, in 2019, researchers published

1170-425: A single aromatic material. The family classification is a starting point to describe a perfume, but does not fully characterize it. The traditional categories which emerged around 1900: Since 1945, new categories have emerged to describe modern scents, due to great advances in the technology of compound design and synthesis, as well as the natural development of styles and tastes: This newer classification method

1248-768: A small fraction of the people who experience migraines. Some people have allergic reactions to vanilla. They may be allergic to synthetically produced vanilla but not to natural vanilla, or the other way around, or to both. Vanilla orchid plants can trigger contact dermatitis , especially among people working in the vanilla trade if they come into contact with the plant's sap. An allergic contact dermatitis called vanillism produces swelling and redness, and sometimes other symptoms. The sap of most species of vanilla orchid which exudes from cut stems or where beans are harvested can cause moderate to severe dermatitis if it comes in contact with bare skin. The sap of vanilla orchids contains calcium oxalate crystals, which are thought to be

1326-509: A solvent, though this is not always the case, and its necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume-oil dilution is alcohol, typically a mixture of ethanol and water or a rectified spirit . Perfume oil can also be diluted by means of neutral-smelling oils such as fractionated coconut oil , or liquid waxes such as jojoba oil and almond oil . The conventional application of pure perfume (parfum extrait) in Western cultures

1404-424: A source of essential oils and aroma compounds. These aromatics are usually secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores , infections, as well as to attract pollinators . Plants are by far the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery. The sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant. A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance

1482-616: A strong blend. Rose water was more delicate, and immediately became popular. Both the raw ingredients and the distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry . There is a controversy on whether perfumery was completely lost in Western Europe after the fall of the Western Roman Empire . That said, the art of perfumery in Western Europe

1560-620: A wheel. In this scheme, Chanel No.5 , traditionally classified as an aldehydic floral, is placed under the Soft Floral sub-group, while amber scents are within the Oriental group. Chypre perfumes are more ambiguous, having affinities with both the Oriental and Woody families. For instance, Guerlain Mitsouko is under Mossy Woods, but Hermès Rouge , a more floral chypre, is under Floral Oriental. Plants have long been used in perfumery as

1638-440: A wider range of customers. As this process accelerated, perfume houses borrowed the term "cologne" to refer to an even more diluted interpretation of their fragrances than eau de toilette. Guerlain , for example, offered an eau de cologne version of its flagship perfume Shalimar and many of its other fragrances. In contrast to a classical eau de cologne, this type of modern cologne is a lighter, less concentrated interpretation of

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1716-436: Is also used in the flavor industry, as a very important key note for many different flavors, especially creamy profiles such as cream soda . Additionally, vanillin can be used as a general-purpose stain for visualizing spots on thin-layer chromatography plates. This stain yields a range of colors for these different components. Vanillin–HCl staining can be used to visualize the localisation of tannins in cells. Vanillin

1794-421: Is an organic compound with the molecular formula C 8 H 8 O 3 . It is a phenolic aldehyde . Its functional groups include aldehyde , hydroxyl , and ether . It is the primary component of the extract of the vanilla bean . Synthetic vanillin is now used more often than natural vanilla extract as a flavoring in foods, beverages, and pharmaceuticals. Vanillin and ethylvanillin are used by

1872-476: Is applied to those sold to men. The actual product worn by a woman may be an eau de parfum rather than an extrait, or by a man an eau de toilette rather than an eau de cologne. The reasons why the terms "perfume" and "cologne" are often used in a generic sense is related to the modern development of perfumery in Europe since the 18th century. The term "cologne" was first used in Europe in the 18th century to refer to

1950-529: Is becoming a popular choice for the development of bio-based plastics. Vanillin has been used as a chemical intermediate in the production of pharmaceuticals , cosmetics , and other fine chemicals . In 1970, more than half the world's vanillin production was used in the synthesis of other chemicals. As of 2016, vanillin uses have expanded to include perfumes , flavoring and aromatic masking in medicines, various consumer and cleaning products, and livestock foods. Vanillin can trigger migraine headaches in

2028-404: Is behind the ears, at the nape of the neck, under the armpits and at the insides of wrists, elbows and knees, so that the pulse point will warm the perfume and release fragrance continuously. According to perfumer Sophia Grojsman behind the knees is the ideal point to apply perfume in order that the scent may rise. The modern perfume industry encourages the practice of layering fragrance so that it

2106-533: Is deaminated by phenylalanine ammonia lyase (PAL) to form t- cinnamic acid . The para position of the ring is then hydroxylated by the cytochrome P450 enzyme cinnamate 4-hydroxylase (C4H/P450) to create p - coumaric acid . Then, in the proposed ferulate pathway, 4-hydroxycinnamoyl-CoA ligase (4CL) attaches p -coumaric acid to coenzyme A (CoA) to create p -coumaroyl CoA. Hydroxycinnamoyl transferase (HCT) then converts p -coumaroyl CoA to 4-coumaroyl shikimate / quinate . This subsequently undergoes oxidation by

2184-406: Is not cost-competitive with petrochemical vanillin, which sells for around US$ 15/kg. However, unlike vanillin synthesized from lignin or guaiacol, it can be labeled as a natural flavoring. Vanillin is most prominent as the principal flavor and aroma compound in vanilla . Cured vanilla pods contain about 2% by dry weight vanillin. Relatively pure vanillin may be visible as a white dust or "frost" on

2262-409: Is probably the most widespread strength concentration. It is often the first concentration offered when a new fragrance is launched, and usually referred to generically as "perfume." Historically, women's fragrances tended to have higher levels of aromatic compounds than men's fragrances. Fragrances marketed to men were typically sold as EdT or EdC, rarely as EdP or perfume extracts. This is changing in

2340-487: Is released in different intensities depending upon the time of the day. Lightly scented products such as bath oil, shower gel, and body lotion are recommended for the morning; eau de toilette is suggested for the afternoon; and perfume applied to the pulse points for evening. Cologne fragrance is released rapidly, lasting around 2 hours. Eau de toilette lasts from 2 to 4 hours, while perfume may last up to six hours. A variety of factors can influence how fragrance interacts with

2418-402: Is still made from lignin wastes, while approximately 85% is synthesized in a two-step process from the petrochemical precursors guaiacol and glyoxylic acid . Beginning in 2000, Rhodia began marketing biosynthetic vanillin prepared by the action of microorganisms on ferulic acid extracted from rice bran . This product, sold at USD $ 700/kg under the trademarked name Rhovanil Natural,

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2496-442: Is to affect customers through their sense of smell and entice them into purchasing the perfume or perfumed product. As such there is significant interest in producing a perfume formulation that people will find aesthetically pleasing. The job of composing perfumes that will be sold is left up to an expert on perfume composition or known in the fragrance industry as the perfumer . They are also sometimes referred to affectionately as

2574-440: Is widely used in contemporary perfumes. Synthetic aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources. For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that can be inexpensively synthesized from terpenes . Orchid scents (typically salicylates ) are usually not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to match

2652-467: Is widely used in retail and the fragrance industry, created in 1983 by the perfume consultant Michael Edwards . The new scheme simplifies classification and naming, as well as showing the relationships among the classes. The five main families are Floral , Oriental , Woody , Aromatic Fougère , and Fresh , the first four from the classic terminology and the last from the modern oceanic category. Each of these are divided into subgroups and arranged around

2730-546: The Reimer–Tiemann reaction ) in Holzminden , Germany. In 1876, Karl Reimer synthesized vanillin ( 2 ) from guaiacol ( 1 ). By the late 19th century, semisynthetic vanillin derived from the eugenol found in clove oil was commercially available. Synthetic vanillin became significantly more available in the 1930s, when production from clove oil was supplanted by production from the lignin -containing waste produced by

2808-458: The alembic (which still bears its Arabic name. [from Greek ἄμβιξ, "cup", "beaker"] described by Synesius in the 4th century). The Persian chemist Ibn Sina (also known as Avicenna ) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation , the procedure most commonly used today. He first experimented with the rose . Until his discovery, liquid perfumes consisted of mixtures of oil and crushed herbs or petals, which made

2886-463: The sulfite pulping process for preparing wood pulp for the paper industry . By 1981, a single pulp and paper mill in Thorold, Ontario , supplied 60% of the world market for synthetic vanillin. However, subsequent developments in the wood pulp industry have made its lignin wastes less attractive as a raw material for vanillin synthesis. Today, approximately 15% of the world's production of vanillin

2964-408: The 14th century, grew into a major industry in the south of France. Between the 16th and 17th centuries, perfumes were used primarily by the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from infrequent bathing. In 1693, Italian barber Giovanni Paolo Feminis created a perfume water called Aqua Admirabilis, today best known as eau de cologne ; his nephew Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni Maria Farina) took over

3042-569: The 16th century the personal perfumer to Catherine de' Medici (1519–1589), René the Florentine (Renato il fiorentino), took Italian refinements to France. His laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret passageway, so that no formulae could be stolen en route. Thanks to Rene, France quickly became one of the European centers of perfume and cosmetics manufacture. Cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in

3120-440: The 19th century. The term "perfume" emerged in the late 19th century. The first fragrance labeled a "parfum" extract with a high concentration of aromatic compounds was Guerlain's Jicky in 1889. In the first half of the 20th century, fragrance companies began offering their products in more than one concentration, often pairing an extrait with a lighter eau de toilette suitable for day wear, which made their products available to

3198-507: The EdT from the 1950s, and the EdP was not developed until the 1980s). In some cases, words such as extrême , intense , or concentrée that might indicate a higher aromatic concentration are actually completely different fragrances, related only because of a similar perfume accord . An example of this is Chanel's Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur concentrée . This complexity adds a layer of nuance to

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3276-490: The P450 enzyme coumaroyl ester 3’-hydroxylase (C3’H/P450) to give caffeoyl shikimate/quinate. HCT then exchanges the shikimate/quinate for CoA to create caffeoyl CoA, and 4CL removes CoA to afford caffeic acid. Caffeic acid then undergoes methylation by caffeic acid O- methyltransferase (COMT) to give ferulic acid. Finally, vanillin synthase hydratase/lyase (vp/VAN) catalyzes hydration of the double bond in ferulic acid followed by

3354-435: The aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each other. Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petitgrain , neroli , and orange oils . Many modern perfumes contain synthesized odorants. Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature. For instance, Calone , a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine scent that

3432-572: The aromatic compounds, which either change their odor character or renders them odorless. Although fragrant extracts are known to the general public as the generic term " essential oils ", a more specific language is used in the fragrance industry to describe the source, purity, and technique used to obtain a particular fragrant extract. Of these extracts, only absolutes , essential oils , and tinctures are directly used to formulate perfumes. Products from different extraction methods are known under different names even though their starting materials are

3510-699: The art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia , Egypt , the Indus Valley civilization and possibly Ancient China . It was further refined by the Romans and the Muslims. One of the world's first-recorded chemists is considered to be a woman named Tapputi , a perfume maker mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia. She distilled flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics , then filtered and put them back in

3588-518: The business in 1732. By the 18th century the Grasse region of France, Sicily , and Calabria (in Italy) were growing aromatic plants to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, Italy and France remain the center of European perfume design and trade . Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typically ethanol or

3666-455: The case. Different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes. Therefore, although the oil concentration of a perfume in EdP dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in EdT from within a company's same range, the actual amount will vary among companies. An EdT from one house may have a higher concentration of aromatic compounds than an EdP from another. Furthermore, some fragrances with

3744-675: The exteriors of cured pods of high quality. It is also found in Leptotes bicolor , a species of orchid native to Paraguay and southern Brazil, and the Southern Chinese red pine . At lower concentrations, vanillin contributes to the flavor and aroma profiles of foodstuffs as diverse as olive oil , butter , raspberry , and lychee fruits. Aging in oak barrels imparts vanillin to some wines , vinegar , and spirits . In other foods, heat treatment generates vanillin from other compounds. In this way, vanillin contributes to

3822-414: The flavor and aroma of coffee , maple syrup , and whole-grain products, including corn tortillas and oatmeal . Natural vanillin is extracted from the seed pods of Vanilla planifolia , a vining orchid native to Mexico, but now grown in tropical areas around the globe. Madagascar is presently the largest producer of natural vanillin. As harvested, the green seed pods contain vanillin in

3900-404: The food industry; ethylvanillin is more expensive, but has a stronger note . It differs from vanillin by having an ethoxy group (−O−CH 2 CH 3 ) instead of a methoxy group (−O−CH 3 ). Natural vanilla extract is a mixture of several hundred different compounds in addition to vanillin. Artificial vanilla flavoring is often a solution of pure vanillin, usually of synthetic origin. Because of

3978-407: The form of its β- D - glucoside ; the green pods do not have the flavor or odor of vanilla. After being harvested, their flavor is developed by a months-long curing process, the details of which vary among vanilla-producing regions, but in broad terms it proceeds as follows: First, the seed pods are blanched in hot water, to arrest the processes of the living plant tissues. Then, for 1–2 weeks,

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4056-447: The formulation to the customer, often with modifications of the composition of the perfume. The perfume composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance ( shampoos , make-up , detergents , car interiors, etc.), or marketed and sold directly to the public as a fine fragrance . Although there is no single "correct" technique for the formulation of a perfume, there are general guidelines as to how

4134-411: The fragrance components presented as a fragrance pyramid , using imaginative and abstract terms for the components listed. The grouping of perfumes can never be completely objective or definitive. Many fragrances contain aspects of different families. Even a perfume designated as "single flower" will have subtle undertones of other aromatics. There are hardly any true unitary-scent perfumes consisting of

4212-532: The fragrant compounds found in various orchids. One of the most commonly used classes of synthetic aromatics by far are the white musks . These materials are found in all forms of commercial perfumes as a neutral background to the middle notes. These musks are added in large quantities to laundry detergents in order to give washed clothes a lasting "clean" scent. The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies . They include: Each of these companies patents several processes for

4290-587: The home. As a result, Andalusian women used perfumes for courtship. Recipes of perfumes from the monks of Santa Maria Delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella of Florence , Italy, were recorded from 1221. In the east, the Hungarians produced around 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution – best known as Hungary Water – at the behest of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary . The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in

4368-478: The immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume. The scents in the top and middle notes are influenced by the base notes; conversely, the scents of the base notes will be altered by the types of fragrance materials used as middle notes. Manufacturers who publish perfume notes typically do so with

4446-573: The interior to remain fragrant for 500 years. In the 9th century the Arab chemist Al-Kindi (Alkindus) wrote the Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations , which contained more than a hundred recipes for fragrant oils , salves , aromatic waters, and substitutes or imitations of costly drugs. The book also described 107 methods and recipes for perfume-making and perfume-making equipment, such as

4524-453: The main causative agent of contact dermatitis in vanilla plantation workers. A pseudophytodermatitis called vanilla lichen can be caused by flour mites ( Tyroglyphus farinae ). Scolytus multistriatus , one of the vectors of the Dutch elm disease , uses vanillin as a signal to find a host tree during oviposition . Andalusians Too Many Requests If you report this error to

4602-401: The modern fragrance world, especially as fragrances are becoming more unisex. Women's fragrances used to be common in all levels of concentration, but in the 21st century are mainly seen in EdP and EdT concentrations. Many modern perfumes are never offered in extrait or eau de cologne formulations, and EdP and EdT account for the vast majority of new launches. Perfume oils are often diluted with

4680-428: The most significant of these is the two-step process practiced by Rhodia since the 1970s, in which guaiacol ( 1 ) reacts with glyoxylic acid by electrophilic aromatic substitution . The resulting vanillylmandelic acid ( 2 ) is then converted by 4-Hydroxy-3-methoxyphenylglyoxylic acid ( 3 ) to vanillin ( 4 ) by oxidative decarboxylation. 15% of the world's production of vanillin is produced from lignosulfonates ,

4758-451: The natural vanilla industry, with its focus on producing a premium product by established methods, rather than on innovations that might alter the product's flavor profile. Although the exact route of vanillin biosynthesis in V. planifolia is currently unknown, several pathways are proposed for its biosynthesis. Vanillin biosynthesis is generally agreed to be part of the phenylpropanoid pathway starting with L -phenylalanine, which

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4836-460: The overall impression of a perfume from first application to the last lingering hint of scent. The trail of scent left behind by a person wearing perfume is called its sillage , after the French word for " wake ", as in the trail left by a boat in water. Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes , making the harmonious scent accord . The notes unfold over time, with

4914-402: The percent of perfume oil in the volume of the final product. The most widespread terms are: The wide range in the percentages of aromatic compounds that may be present in each concentration means that the terminology of extrait, EdP, EdT, and EdC is quite imprecise with regard to oil concentration. Although an EdP will often be more concentrated than an EdT and in turn an EdC, this is not always

4992-481: The performance of antibiotics in laboratory conditions . The largest use of vanillin is as a flavoring, usually in sweet foods. The ice cream and chocolate industries together comprise 75% of the market for vanillin as a flavoring, with smaller amounts being used in confections and baked goods . Vanillin is also used in the fragrance industry, in perfumes , and to mask unpleasant odors or tastes in medicines, livestock fodder , and cleaning products. It

5070-521: The pods are alternately sunned and sweated: during the day they are laid out in the sun, and each night wrapped in cloth and packed in airtight boxes to sweat. During this process, the pods become dark brown, and enzymes in the pod release vanillin as the free molecule. Finally, the pods are dried and further aged for several months, during which time their flavors further develop. Several methods have been described for curing vanilla in days rather than months, although they have not been widely developed in

5148-413: The production of aromatic synthetics annually. Natural and synthetics are used for their different odor characteristics in perfumery Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained. Synthetic odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purified. Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from

5226-422: The raw materials. The results of the extraction are either essential oils , absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product. All these techniques will, to a certain extent, distort the odor of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials. This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process which will denature

5304-490: The resulting solids from hot water. In 1874, the German scientists Ferdinand Tiemann and Wilhelm Haarmann deduced its chemical structure, at the same time finding a synthesis for vanillin from coniferin , a glucoside of isoeugenol found in pine bark. Tiemann and Haarmann founded a company Haarmann and Reimer (now part of Symrise ) and started the first industrial production of vanillin using their process (now known as

5382-504: The same product name but having a different concentration may not only differ in their dilutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether. For instance, in order to make the EdT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EdP, the EdT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or fewer base notes. Chanel No. 5 is a good example: its parfum, EdP, EdT, and now-discontinued EdC concentrations are in fact different compositions (the parfum dates to 1921,

5460-459: The same. For instance, orange blossoms from Citrus aurantium that have undergone solvent extraction produces "orange blossom absolute" but that which have been steam distilled is known as "neroli oil". Perfume compositions are an important part of many industries ranging from the luxury goods sectors, food services industries, to manufacturers of various household chemicals. The purpose of using perfume or fragrance compositions in these industries

5538-402: The scarcity and expense of natural vanilla extract, synthetic preparation of its predominant component has long been of interest. The first commercial synthesis of vanillin began with the more readily available natural compound eugenol (4-allyl-2-methoxyphenol). Today, artificial vanillin is made either from guaiacol or lignin . Lignin-based artificial vanilla flavoring is alleged to have

5616-820: The still several times. On the Indian subcontinent , perfume and perfumery existed in the Indus civilization (3300 BC – 1300 BC). In 2003, archaeologists uncovered what are believed to be the world's oldest surviving perfumes in Pyrgos , Cyprus . The perfumes dated back more than 4,000 years. They were discovered in an ancient perfumery, a 300-square-meter (3,230 sq ft) factory housing at least 60 stills, mixing bowls, funnels, and perfume bottles. In ancient times people used herbs and spices , such as almond , coriander , myrtle , conifer resin , and bergamot , as well as flowers . In May 2018, an ancient perfume "Rodo" (Rose)

5694-454: The understanding and appreciation of perfumery, where variations in concentration and formulation can significantly alter the olfactory ("the sense of smell") experience. The terms "perfume" and "cologne" lead to much confusion in English. "Perfume" is often used as a generic, overarching term to refer to fragrances marketed to women, regardless of their exact concentration. The term "cologne"

5772-424: The vanilla orchids. The demand for vanilla flavoring has long exceeded the supply of vanilla beans. As of 2001 , the annual demand for vanillin was 12,000 tons, but only 1,800 tons of natural vanillin were produced. The remainder was produced by chemical synthesis . Vanillin was first synthesized from eugenol (found in oil of clove) in 1874–75, less than 20 years after it was first identified and isolated. Vanillin

5850-574: The wearer's own physiology and affect the perception of the fragrance. Diet is one factor, as eating spicy and fatty foods can increase the intensity of a fragrance. The use of medications can also impact the character of a fragrance. The relative dryness of the wearer's skin is important, since dry skin will not hold fragrance as long as skin with more oil. The precise formulae of commercial perfumes are kept secret . Even if they were widely published, they would be dominated by such complex ingredients and odorants that they would be of little use in providing

5928-440: Was commercially produced from eugenol until the 1920s. Later it was synthesized from lignin-containing "brown liquor", a byproduct of the sulfite process for making wood pulp . Counterintuitively, though it uses waste materials, the lignin process is no longer popular because of environmental concerns, and today most vanillin is produced from guaiacol . Several routes exist for synthesizing vanillin from guaiacol. At present,

6006-543: Was recreated for the Greek National Archaeological Museum's anniversary show "Countless Aspects of Beauty", allowing visitors to approach antiquity through their olfaction receptors. Romans and Greek extracted perfumes from diverse sources such as flowers, woods, seeds, roots, saps, gums. A temple to Athena in Elis, near Olympia, was said to have saffron blended into its wall plaster, allowing

6084-645: Was reinvigorated after the Islamic invasion of Spain and Southern Italy in 711 and 827. The Islamic controlled cities of Spain ( Al-Andalus ) became major producers of perfumes that were traded throughout the Old World . Like in the ancient world, Andalusians used fragrance in devotion to God. Perfumes added a layer of cleanliness that was needed for their devotion. Andalusian women were also offered greater freedoms than women in other Muslim controlled regions and were allowed to leave their homes and socialize outside. This freedom allowed courtship to occur outside of

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