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40-664: The Plattspitzen is a 2,680-metre-high (8,790 ft) mountain in the Wetterstein Mountains on the border between Germany and Austria . It is a very striking mountain and the southern companion of Germany's highest peak, the Zugspitze , located at the opposite end of the ledge known as the Plattumrahmung . The mountain has three summits: the eastern summit, known as the Gatterlspitz (2,680 m),

80-623: A mountain peak is often called the normal route ( French : voie normale ; German : Normalweg ) in mountaineering. Traditionally, in many countries, the person who made the first ascent of a route was allowed to name it (in France, the naming rights go to whoever first bolted the route); this concept of "naming ownership" by the first ascensionist led to inertia with regard to the changing of problematic names including route names that were vulgar or had racial, sexual, colonial, discriminatory or other, slurs, tropes or stereotyping. In 2020,

120-513: A boulder route (e.g. the SDS of Dreamtime is graded well above the standing start version). Alpine and big wall climbers often seek to link established routes together in a larger enchainment (or "link-up") route (e.g. the notable Moonwalk Traverse of the entire Cerro Chaltén Group in Patagonia ). The straightforward and frequently used (and usually easiest and often the original) route up

160-412: A climbing route are recorded in a climbing guidebook and/or in an online climbing-route database. Details recorded will include elements such as the type of climbing route (e.g. bouldering route, sport climbing route, traditional climbing route, ice climbing route, and alpine climbing route, etc.), the difficulty grade of the route–and beta on its crux (es)–and any risk or commitment grade,

200-456: A climbing route has been established, variations may be added, a typical one being a more "direct" line (e.g. a direct start or direct finish) of the original route, also called a direttissima in alpine climbing, and thus not avoiding the difficult obstacles that the original route went around (e.g. a roof or an overhang, or a section with minimal holds). Boulder climbers might add a harder sit start "SS" (or sit-down-start, "SDS") variation to

240-404: A long-term debate in the climbing world on the use of permanently fixed in-situ climbing protection (e.g. such as bolts or pitons ) on climbing routes. Such protection is not to provide aid (i.e. it is not aid-climbing per se), but to increase the safety of the route. Climbers call routes that have such protection, " sport climbing routes " (i.e. there is no risk, so it is purely a sport). In

280-627: A route (or make a route more climbable), by cutting or expanding handholds, which is also known as chipping . Such acts have at times caused controversy (e.g. Fred Rouhling 's Akira and Hugh ), but at other times has not (e.g. Antoine Le Menestrel  [ fr ] 's famous Buoux route, La Rose et la Vampire ). A 2022 survey by Climbing showed climbers were largely against manufacturing routes on natural outdoor rock on public lands, but were less negative on private lands (or on routes in quarries); they were willing to allow "cleaning" of routes (which some consider manufacturing), and also

320-455: A route is established, variations can be created (e.g. directessimas , sit starts , or enchainments ), and climbers will try to improve the "style" in which the route is climbed (e.g. minimizing aid climbing or other supports such as oxygen or fixed ropes ). Some climbers limit the in-situ protection (e.g. greenpointing ), or even free solo the route. Others seek to set speed climbing records on routes. The ascent of ever-harder routes

360-685: Is a high alpine climbing route that links these two summits. The climbing along the Blassenkamm ridge over the tops of the Innere, Mittlere and Äußere Höllentalspitze has sections that are classified as UIAA grade III-. The region around the Oberreintal Hut and the south side of the Schüsselkarspitze and Scharnitzspitze are well known for alpine climbing routes of all levels up the solid, limestone slabs. The south side above

400-502: Is an integral key part of the history of climbing, and each type of climbing has notable routes that set major new milestones . There are ongoing debates amongst climbers about routes including the naming of routes, the creation of new routes by artificially altering the surface (e.g. chipping in rock climbing), the role of completely artificial indoor routes (e.g. The Project ), the level and maintenance of in-situ protection on routes (e.g. providing permanent bolted protection anchors) and

440-417: Is sometimes called projecting a route (i.e. the route becomes a "project"). When a climber does climb the route on their first attempt without any falls and without any prior knowledge of how to climb the route (which is called beta ), it is known as an onsight ; where the climber had prior beta on the route, it is known as a flash . Alpine climbers distinguish whether the ascent was made in summer or in

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480-756: The Ehrwald Basin to Garmisch-Partenkirchen . To the northeast the boundary runs from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Mittenwald along the Kankerbach and Kranzbach streams and the Isar river. To the east the Isar forms the boundary from Mittenwald to Scharnitz . South of Scharnitz it continues along the Drahnbach stream to Seestadeln. To the south the boundary extends from Ehrwald along the Gaisbach stream and over

520-1002: The Münchner Haus (2,962 m), the Meiler Hut (2,366 m), the Knorr Hut (2,052 m), the Kreuzeckhaus (also: Adolf Zoeppritz Haus, 1,652 m), the Höllentalanger Hut (1,379 m) and the Reintalanger Hut (1,366 m). In addition, are the privately run Schachenhaus (1,866 m) and the Wiener Neustädter Hut (2,209 m, maintained by the Austrian Tourist Club ) offer food, refuge and accommodation for mountaineers and hikers. The Munich Branch of

560-680: The Wettersteingebirge into two groups and eight subgroups: The Alpine Club Guide divides the range based on access: The 10 highest summits of the Wetterstein are: There are over 150 named summits in the Wetterstein with spot heights . Amongst the best known are (in order of height): The Zugspitze is very frequently climbed using various routes and the Alpspitze summit, too, is a popular destination that can be reached on several different routes. The ridge of Jubiläumsgrat

600-459: The 1980s and 1990s in the US, this debate became so heated that it was known as the "bolt wars", with climbers bolt chopping (i.e. removing in-situ protection) on routes they considered to be traditional-only routes (i.e. no in-situ protection). While all indoor climbing routes are bolted sport routes, the use of bolts in the outdoor natural environment raised environmental considerations, which led to

640-824: The Ehrwalder Alm to the Gaistal valley ( Leutascher Ache ) and continues via Leutasch -Oberweidach and past the Simmelberg to the north to the Drahnbach. The saddle between the Kankerbach and the Kranzbach (the Loisach – Isar watershed) links the Wetterstein with the Bavarian Prealps. The saddle near the Ehrwalder Alm is the link between the Wetterstein and Mieming Chain. SOIUSA officially divides

680-595: The Gaistal is markedly quieter than the north side. For climbers, the mountains north of Leutasch are very interesting, especially the Oberreintal-Schrofen, the Scharnitzspitze and the Schüsselkarspitze. On the south faces of these three border mountains are alpine climbing routes aplenty. In recent years several alpine classics were renovated by Heinz Zak. This has attracted ever more climbers to

720-720: The German Alpine Club has rented the Waxenstein Hut (also Alpl Hut or Aiple Hut) since 1920 and operates it as self-catered accommodation. In the Oberreintalkar lies the Oberreintal Hut , which is the meeting point for Wetterstein climbers (a self-catering hut although drinks are sold by the proprietor). In winter the Stuiben Hut is used as a self-catering hut for ski tourers and snowshoe trekkers. In addition there are several privately owned huts in

760-809: The Meiler Hut into the Reintal valley and continues to the summit of the Zugspitze. From there it descends to Ehrwald. The easier variant runs through the Leutascher Achental valley via the Ehrwalder Alm and also ends at Ehrwald. There are the following Klettersteigs (sometimes abbreviated Steig ) in the Wetterstein: Several large cable cars and lifts link to the summit regions and high skiing areas: The Bavarian Zugspitze Railway (a metre gauge rack railway from Garmisch to

800-605: The Tyrolean village of Telfs and the Bavarian town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen . The tunnel would have had a total length of 22 kilometres and would have enabled the journey time of trunk services between Munich Central Station and Innsbruck Central Station to be cut to 90 minutes. The project was assessed in 2013 to cost €2.2 billion to build. A tunnel through the Wetterstein would save trains one hour in travelling between Munich and Landeck or Vorarlberg and relieve both

840-594: The Via Alpina ( Rote Weg der Via Alpina ) runs through the Wetterstein in three stages: Stage 15 of the North Alpine long-distance path 01 (Limestone Alp Way) runs through the Wetterstein in two route variations. From Scharnitz over the Hoher Saddle to Leutasch-Ahrn both variations are combined. In Ahrn the long-distance path forks into a high alpine and an easier variant. The high alpine variant runs via

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880-664: The Wetterstein mountains. Of these, the Kreuzjochhaus stands out because of its idyllic setting, which offers one of the best panoramas in the Bavarian Alps in the summer and is located in the middle of the Garmisch-Partenkirchen ski region in the winter. The Via Alpina , a cross-border long-distance path with five stages through the whole of the Alps, also runs through the Wetterstein. The Red Way of

920-946: The Zugspitzplatt), the Eibsee Cable Car (from the Eibsee to the Zugspitzplatt), the Tyrolean Zugspitze Cable Car (from Ehrwald to the Zugspitzplatt) and the Ehrwalder Almbahn. Those not interested in a climbing tour or multi-day summit tour, can hike the Partnach Gorge , the Leutasch Gorge or the Höllental Gorge in a day. For many years there were discussions about a project to build a railway tunnel between

960-419: The aim of creating the world's hardest sport climbing route at circa. 5.15d  (9c); it was later deconstructed having never been fully ascended, despite attempts by some of the world's best climbers, including Adam Ondra , Stefano Ghisolfi , and Alex Megos . Since then, other "Project-type" routes have been created on other climbing walls, with the goal of being the world's hardest route. There has been

1000-426: The best publishing practices to avoid harm caused by discriminatory or oppressive route names". Many climbing guidebook publishers and route databases introduced policies to redact inappropriate route names, including the largest online databases, theCrag.com , and MountainProject.com (who had redacted 6,000 names in the first year). Some climbers have physically altered the natural rock surface to "construct"

1040-474: The climbing community more directly confronted the issue of problematic names. In June 2020, climbing author Andrew Bisharat wrote in Rock & Ice that "routes belong to us all. That should include their names" in regard to changing problematic names. At the same time, Duane Raleigh, the editor of Rock & Ice , stepped down from his post recognizing some problematic names that he had given his own routes in

1080-462: The development of the clean climbing movement. Other objections to pre-bolted protection highlighted the effect that such protection had on the very nature and challenge of a climbing route. In 1971, Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner wrote a famous essay called The Murder of the Impossible (which was believed to have been inspired by the 400-bolt Compressor Route ), challenging that

1120-525: The eastern summit is about five hours. Wetterstein Mountains The Wetterstein mountains are an ideal region for mountaineers and climbers . Mountain walkers sometimes need to allow for significant differences in elevation. The proximity of the range to the south German centres of population, the scenic landscape and its good network of cable cars and lifts mean that the mountains are heavily frequented by tourists for most of

1160-573: The ethical issue of retro-bolting (e.g. turning traditional climbing routes into safer sport climbing bolted routes). Climbing routes are usually chronicled in a climbing guidebook , a climbing journal (e.g. the American Alpine Journal or the Himalayan Journal ), and/or in an online route database (e.g. theCrag.com or MountainProject.com ), where the key details of the route are listed, which generally include

1200-409: The following: Climbers will often differentiate climbing routes by the general types of challenges they present. Four of the main types of challenges are: The definition of what is classed as a valid ascent of a climbing route is a redpoint . Many routes may not be climbed on the first attempt, and will require days (and in some cases, years) of attempts; when a climber undertakes such a task, it

1240-466: The length and number of pitches of the route, and the climbing equipment (e.g. climbing protection gear) that is needed to complete the route. There are definitions as to what is a valid ascent of a route (e.g. the redpoint in rock climbing), and the class or style of ascent (e.g. onsighted , flashed ). The coveted first ascent (FA), first free ascent (FFA), and first female free ascent (FFFA), are usually recorded for important routes. After

Plattspitzen - Misplaced Pages Continue

1280-422: The line from Munich via Rosenheim to Innsbruck and the route from Munich to Lindau. By bypassing Garmisch and moving the south portal of the tunnel east of Telfs-Sagl, the tunnel would be just under 25 kilometres in length. Climbing route A climbing route ( German : Kletterrouten ) is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain , a rock face or an ice-covered obstacle. The details of

1320-541: The middle summit ( Mittelgipfel , 2,674 m) and the western summit ( Westgipfel , 2,676 m). It was first climbed in 1871 by Hermann von Barth , who conquered all three peaks alone departing from the Zugspitzplatt ledge. At that time the mountain was also known as the Wetterschrofen . The mountain is made of Wetterstein limestone and lies just under 3 kilometres south of the Zugspitze , forming

1360-480: The more difficult winter season (e.g. it was not until 2021 that K2 was climbed in winter). Climbers will also seek to improve the "style" in which a route is climbed. A route that uses a lot of aid climbing will be reclimbed with less and less aid until it is eventually " free climbed " (i.e. using no aid, either as a sport or a traditional climb). Greenpointing refers to the process of even removing any existing in-situ sport climbing protection bolts to ascend

1400-472: The past. The debate intensified, reaching national media attention in countries around the world, and was described as climbing's "#MeToo" moment. In 2021, the American Alpine Club created the "Climb United" initiative to bring magazine editors, guidebook publishers and database managers, and other climbing community leaders together to create principles for naming routes that would "Build

1440-491: The region. The combination of alms and rugged rocky terrain is not only unique in the German Alpine region, but also offers habitats for several species of animal, such as chamois , Alpine marmots , Alpine choughs , Alpine salamanders , adders , golden eagles and many species of marten . The German Alpine Club maintains six managed Alpine Club huts in the Wetterstein mountains with overnight accommodation:

1480-459: The repairing of routes (e.g. gluing back broken holds). In contrast, indoor climbing is done on completely artificially manufactured sport climbing routes on climbing walls , as is competition climbing where a route setter manufactures a completely new route for each stage of the competition. In 2017, Black Diamond Equipment launched "The Project" on an indoor climbing wall in Sweden, with

1520-430: The route as a cleaner traditional climb. Alpine climbers seek to complete established high-altitude " expedition style " routes in alpine style with no supplemental oxygen or any fixed ropes , and even alone . Free solo climbers seek to ascend a route with no protection equipment whatsoever (e.g. as in the 2018 film, Free Solo ). Some big wall climbers set speed records on routes (e.g. The Nose ). When

1560-614: The southern cornerstone of the Zugspitze massif. One kilometre to the west it meets the higher, but much less prominent Wetterspitzen (2,746 m). To the south, towards the valley of the Gais , the mountain has a very steep and rugged face, about 700 metres high. The Plattspitzen can be climbed from the Knorr Hut (2,052 m) to the northeast by crossing the Platt along the northwestern ridge, parts of which are medium difficulty (in places up to Grade III ). The duration of this route up to

1600-679: The year. There are, however, places in the Wetterstein that are rarely or never visited by people. The Wetterstein borders on the following other mountain ranges of the Alps: In the AVE , the Alpine Club classification of the Eastern Alps , the Wetterstein and the Mieming range are classed as a single group. The River Loisach forms the boundary of the range to the west and north, from

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