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65-533: In the summer of 1793 the harbour was visited by a Spanish expedition assembled in Chiloé Archipelago and led by José de Moraleda . At the time of Moraleda's arrival there were apple trees growing around the harbour, likely these were planted by indigenous sea-farers of Chiloé who used to visit the area. In the first half of the 19th century two sailors from Cardiff , the Yates cousins, settled next to

130-484: A secret society called La Recta Provincia or La Mayoria. Its origins date back to the Chilean colonial period , when navigator José de Moraleda visited Chiloé in 1786. According to legend, José de Moraleda y Montero challenged the power of the machi Chilpilla to a "magic" competition. Moraleda was defeated, and Chilpilla ran his ship aground when he tried to leave the island. Accepting his defeat, Moraleda gave Chilpilla

195-415: A book of European magic as reward. Belief in witchcraft has been common in the archipelago, reaching such influence that in 1880 Chilean authorities put on trial warlocks said to rule the archipelago through a secret society . Popular belief has attributed to the sorcerers of Chiloé a complex organization, the help of magical creatures, and numerous powers and weaknesses. The warlocks are said to have had

260-618: A coastal people, arrived from the mainland north of Chiloé and settled on the eastern shore of the Isla Grande, practicing horticulture and fishing. Some accounts mention the northern half of the Chiloé Island as Cunco territory. It can be said that Chiloé was a contact zone between the Mapuche (Araucanian) world and the southern tribes. The main island was first discovered by Spaniards in 1553 by Francisco de Ulloa. In 1567,

325-518: A colony rich enough to conquer, it later became a problematic region due to its geographical isolation from mainland Chile and the War of Arauco in the mainland. Chiloé Island was largely exempt from the turmoil that affected the Chilean mainland due to conflicts with Huilliches and Mapuches, but was notably affected in 1712 by a large Huilliche rebellion . During colonial times, Chiloé served as base for

390-579: A failed experiment; and a voladora (which similarly, contrary to the legend, is young and beautiful, for the same reason). In 2014, the Chilean visual artist Patricio Paretti made the animated television series "Magallanes, un cuento mágico", aired by UMAGTV, which had as its central character "Don Eleuterio", a Chiloe warlock who lived in Punta Arenas and who told supernatural stories that happened in Chilean Patagonia. The audiovisual work

455-569: A machi. The jurisdiction of La Recta Provincia extended throughout the Archipelago and was headed by a King, who together with other subordinates formed a governing council. There were seven Districts or Republics with code names taken from places in Spain and its colonies: Buenos Aires ( Achao ), España ( Queilén and its surroundings), Lima (Quicaví), Peru (Caucahué), Salamanca (Rauco), Santiago ( Tenaún ) and Villarrica ( Dalcahue ). The seat of

520-515: A macuñ (made from the skin from a dead virgin's chest), to turn into certain animals, and to tirar males (inflict harm from a distance). Their knowledge of plants and animals also enable them to brew powerful potions. They are said to be able to tame the Caballo marino chilote (Chilote hippocampus) and safely board the legendary ghost ship the Caleuche . They are said to be weak to salt. There

585-403: A magic book, from which some indigenous people (among them, Machis and Kalkus ) would be instructed. This fact led to the union of indigenous rituals and practices with the knowledge described in the given book, which would give rise to the secret society. Moraleda does not mention in his report having met the "sorceress" Chillpila, but he does mention the fact that he wanted to make contact with

650-501: A pagan land; the result was a mixing of Catholicism and pagan beliefs. In addition, the use of flat wooden tiles as shingles ( wood shingles ) became a staple in its architecture. Sixteen of these Churches of Chiloé still remain and have been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites . Nearly all the houses and buildings in colonial Chiloe were built with wood, and wood shingles were extensively employed. Roof shingles of Fitzroya came to be used as money and called Real de alerce . In

715-637: A series of explorations towards the interior of Patagonia as well as to its channels. The Jesuit Nicolás Mascardi crossed the Andes through the Vuriloche Pass and set up a mission on the shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake in 1670. The Jesuits established in Chiloé brought Chonos from islands south of Chiloé to settle in the archipelago, which led to acculturation with the Spanish- Huilliche of

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780-505: Is a dish made from fish , clams (almejas), ribbed mussels (cholgas), giant barnacles (picorocos), meats, and potatoes of Chiloé wrapped in leaves and cooked in a hole in the ground by hot stones. It can also be cooked in a pot over a bonfire, becoming pulmay. Chiloé has a rich folklore, with many mythological animals and spirits such as the Caleuche , the Trauco , the Pincoya and

845-698: Is a group of islands lying off the coast of Chile , in the Los Lagos Region . It is separated from mainland Chile by the Chacao Channel in the north, the Sea of Chiloé in the east and the Gulf of Corcovado in the southeast. All islands except the Desertores Islands form Chiloé Province . The main island is Chiloé Island . Of roughly rectangular shape, the southwestern half of this island

910-463: Is a wilderness of contiguous forests, wetlands and, in some places, mountains . The landscape of the northeastern sectors of Chiloé Island and the islands to the east is dominated by rolling hills, with a mosaic of pastures, forests and cultivated fields. The archipelago is known within Chile for its distinctive folklore, mythology , potatoes , cuisine and unique architecture . The culture of Chiloé

975-530: Is currently a character in Chile known as El Brujo , which originally appeared in the Caleuche Comic magazine and now appears in the pages of the magazine Heroes. El Brujo is a rather loose and self-centered superhero, whose powers and abilities are based on Chiloe witchcraft. Here, the macuñ a cape, and the Brujo's allies are an invunche - contrary to the legend, a very intelligent being, the result of being

1040-442: Is mainly restricted to Chiloe Island and nearby areas. In part because of its physical isolation from the rest of Chile, and access to different materials, Chiloé has a special architecture that differs most greatly from the typical Spanish colonial architecture . The Spanish who arrived in the 16th century, and Jesuit missionaries who followed, constructed hundreds of small wooden churches in an attempt to bring Christianity to

1105-460: Is roughly rectangular, with its long axis oriented from north to south. To the east of Chiloé Island lies the Sea of Chiloé , which contains most of the other islands in the archipelago. The Sea of Chiloé is a marginal sea separating Chiloé Island from Palena Province (also called Continental Chiloé). The main islands in the Sea of Chiloé are Quinchao , Lemuy , Tranqui , and Desertores Islands . To

1170-522: Is the result of mixing of Huilliche , Spanish and Chono influences in centuries of isolation without much contact with the rest of Chile or the Western World. Its cool temperate climate, abundance of sea resources and large and lush forests have also played a major role in shaping life in the islands. In colonial times , Chiloé was an important bulwark in the defence against Dutch and British incursions to Chile and Patagonia . The archipelago

1235-631: The Guaitecas Archipelago south of Chiloé, to deprive enemies of any eventual support from native populations. This was in line with the ideas of Governor Antonio Narciso de Santa María , who thought the Spanish should concentrate efforts in defending Chiloé Island. Depopulation of Guaitecas Archipelago meant the indigenous Chono population settled in the Chiloé Archipelago, where they became gradually assimilated. Ancud

1300-643: The Invunche . Chilota mythology is based on a mixture of indigenous religions, (the Chonos and Huilliches ), that live in the Archipelago of Chiloé, and the legends and superstitions brought by the Spanish Conquistadores . In 1567, the process of conquest in Chiloé by the conquistadors brought forth the fusion of elements that would form a separate mythology. Chilota mythology flourished, isolated from other beliefs and myths in mainland Chile, due to

1365-570: The Llanquihue Lake , where German settlers were given land. The last major portion of Patagonia to be incorporated into Chile, Aysén was also explored and settled from Chiloé. In the colonization process of Patagonia, Chilotes immigrants constituted a large part of the work force of the livestock enterprises that were established in Patagonia between 1890 and 1950. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, thousands of Chilotes migrated to

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1430-497: The Spanish conquest , and historical and molecular evidence suggests that it is the progenitor of the world's most widely cultivated variety of potato, S. tuberosum tuberosum . The native fauna includes many birds, a few subspecies of which are endemic to the archipelago. Among land mammals, the largest are Darwin's fox (named as such because Charles Darwin was the first to collect a specimen, on Isla San Pedro , Chiloé ) and

1495-403: The Spanish language ) are people of Chiloé Archipelago said to practise witchcraft linked to Chilote mythology . The warlocks may be real, purported or legendary persons. The source of the witchcraft is often attributed to a legendary encounter between Basque navigator José de Moraleda y Montero and Huilliche machi Chillpila who defeated Moraleda in a duel of witchcraft obtaining

1560-535: The brown-hooded gull , and the - we suffix means 'place'. The adjective and demonym for this region is chilote in the masculine and chilota in the feminine. Many placenames across the archipelago have Chono etymologies, despite Veliche being the main indigenous language at the Spanish arrival in the 16th century. 42°36′S 73°57′W  /  42.600°S 73.950°W  / -42.600; -73.950 Warlock of Chilo%C3%A9 The warlocks of Chiloé ("brujos de Chiloé" or "brujos chilotes" in

1625-529: The native potatoes , given the adverse climate. During the first years of the colony, the spiritual labour was carried out by Mercedarians and Franciscans . The first Jesuits arrived in 1608 and founded in 1612 the first church in Castro . Because of the scattered population living in different islands, the Jesuits established a circular mission system with numerous chapels and churches. The priests of

1690-579: The pudú , a small deer. Marine mammals include Commerson's dolphins and South American sea lions , which form colonies at rock outcrops close to the sea. Several species of whale have been sighted around the island, notably blue whales (see also Alfaguara project ) and critically endangered southern right whales . The Chiloé Archipelago may have been populated as early as 12,000 to 11,800 BC , according to archaeological discoveries in Monte Verde , located less than 50 kilometres (31 miles) north of

1755-399: The 1980s to more than 60% urban in 2012. In part because of its physical isolation from the rest of Chile, Chiloé has a special architecture and local culture. During the colonization of Patagonia and southern Chile in the 19th century, cultural elements of Chiloé spread to that zone, as many chilotes migrated and settled there. Chilotan architecture is a unique architectural style that

1820-483: The 1980s, the economy of Chiloé has become increasingly dependent on large-scale commercial fishing ventures, aquaculture ( salmon farming in particular), and, more recently, tourism. The rapid industrialization of the region, triggered by Chile's adoption of a neoliberal economic model under the Pinochet dictatorship in the 1970s, has led to a major demographic shift of the island's population, from majority rural in

1885-632: The Chilote households to host a group of cultural heritage tourists for the first time. The visits were successful and should be the first of more to come, helping establish the credibility of Chiloé's agrotourism network among other tour operators. Origenes Tour (25 October 2017). "Tourism in Chiloe" . Origenes Tour . Retrieved 21 October 2017 . Chiloé is derived from the Mapuche word chillwe , meaning "seagull place". Chill or chülle refers to

1950-564: The Chiloé Archipelago. It has distinct differences from standard Chilean Spanish in accent, pronunciation, grammar and vocabulary, especially influenced by the Huilliche variant of Mapudungun . The cuisine of Chiloé has its origin in pre-Hispanic traditions among native Chonos and Huilliches . Typical features of Chilote cuisine include earth oven and asado barbecues. Chilote cuisine makes extensive use of fish, shellfish and potatoes , of which there are plenty of varieties growing in

2015-542: The Chiloé diocese of Ancud established a private foundation called "Fundación con Todos" (One for All Foundation). The foundation helps repair damaged churches on the islands and assists local residents in developing tourism. In cooperation with the EOMF and the Chiloé Model Forest, a cultural and natural heritage tour was organized to Argentina and Chile, including a three-day visit to Chiloé, permitting some of

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2080-873: The King was in the Cueva de Quicaví or Casa Grande, in the surroundings of Quicaví, in the commune of Quemchi . According to legend, the society worked out of a cave that was guarded by a deformed being, the Imbunche . There they kept the book, the Levisterio or Revisorio, an instrument they used to take various exams, and the Chayanco, used to monitor all members of the witch community. This cave measured approximately 200 meters long by 3 meters high and contained many rooms lit by torches and jugs of human oil, according to Judit Inzunza. The warlocks are said to be able to fly using

2145-487: The airport opened in Castro, the only way to reach the islands was by ferry. Main cultural attractions include the islands' local culture, coastline, and clear waters. Some of the islands' churches are UNESCO World Heritage sites; however, not all of them are always accessible to the public. In order to overcome the cultural and organizational barriers that keep suppliers of living cultural heritage and tour operators apart,

2210-524: The archipelago's different islands. Chiloé is a center of diversity of potatoes and the origin of most of cultivated potatoes outside Andes, belonging to subspecies Solanum tuberosum tuberosum . Lamb is considered the most appreciated meat and is eaten and prepared as an asado , especially around Christmas and New Year. Apple chicha ( cider ) is a common alcoholic beverage. Other typical alcoholic beverages are murtado and licor de oro liqueurs. Traditional cuisine includes curanto and pulmay. Curanto

2275-547: The archipelago, complementing traditional activities such as fishing and small scale agriculture . The Chiloé Province ( Spanish : Provincia de Chiloé ) includes all of the Chiloé Archipelago, except the Grupo Desertores islands, plus the Isla Guafo , for a total land area of approximately 9,181 square kilometres (3,545 square miles). The administrative center of the province is the city of Castro , while

2340-454: The archipelago, reaching such influence that in 1880 Chilean authorities put on trial warlocks said to rule the archipelago through a secret society . Once considered an isolated and backward part of Chile, today the archipelago retains its rural character despite increased connectivity and the growth of cities such as Ancud , Castro and Quellón . Since the 1990s, salmon aquaculture and tourism have been important sources of revenue in

2405-545: The circular mission travelled from September to May to the scattered missions using dalcas . The Jesuits established a collegium in 1660 in Castro. By 1767, when the Society of Jesus was suppressed , there were 13 Jesuit missioners and 79 chapels. From 1771 onwards, the Franciscans took over the functions of the Jesuits in Chiloé. As result of a corsair and pirate menace , Spanish authorities ordered to depopulate

2470-498: The colonial era, Indian towns (Queilen, Chonchi, Tenaún), Spanish towns (Chacao and Quenac) and other mixed towns (Castro, Dalcahue, etc.) were all peresent. Salmon aquaculture , tourism, agriculture and timber are the mainstays of the island economy. Some 1,400 salmon farms are spread among the islands. LAN Airlines constructed a small airport in November 2012, which opened Chiloé to more tourism than it had experienced. Before

2535-645: The eastern and northern coast of Chiloé Island. Some native plants like Gevuina avellana and Fascicularia bicolor have edible seeds, and others like the Chilean rhubarb have edible stems. The most notable edible plant native to Chiloé is the potato ( Solanum tuberosum ), which contrary to the Andean potatoes of Peru and Bolivia is adapted to the long-day conditions prevalent in the higher latitudes of southern Chile. Hundreds of varieties of this potato have been cultivated by local indigenous peoples since before

2600-474: The episcopal see of the Roman Catholic bishopric is Ancud . The province of Chiloé is part of the Los Lagos Region ( Región de los Lagos ), which primarily consists of the Chilean lakes region on the mainland north of Chiloé; the administrative center of the region is Puerto Montt . Chiloé Island is by far the largest island in the archipelago, at 8,394 square kilometres (3,241 square miles). It

2665-685: The expedition, Juan Williams , considered this to be contraband upon which the Chilean soldiers of Ancud temporarily boarded Enterprise and forced the ship to leave. Williams, whose wife was a relative of the Yates cousins, imposed sanctions on them. In the 2010s the harbour have been used occasionally as disembarkment point in the exploitation of Cancer edwardsii . 45°2′0.13″S 73°41′57.43″W  /  45.0333694°S 73.6992861°W  / -45.0333694; -73.6992861 Chilo%C3%A9 Archipelago The Chiloé Archipelago ( Spanish : Archipiélago de Chiloé , pronounced [tʃiloˈe] , locally [ʃiloˈe] )

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2730-521: The harbour. From there they sold provisions to bypassing sailors. In the winter of 1843 a Chilean expedition on board of Ancud was heading to establish a Chilean settlement at the Strait of Magellan . When arriving for a stop-over in Puerto Americano it was noted that American schooner Enterprise and other vessels were in place to engage in untaxed barter with the settlers. The leader of

2795-405: The highest points in the archipelago and do not exceed 800 metres (2,600 feet). Depressions in the western forest are occupied by numerous small lakes and bogs scattered across the landscape. A bridge to the mainland is planned for the archipelago, despite opposition from some residents who fear pollution and habitat destruction . The Chacao Channel bridge would replace the ferry that connects

2860-524: The island are still largely covered by the native forest. Notable species include arrayán ( Luma apiculata ), coihue ( Nothofagus dombeyi ), quila ( Chusquea quila ), Chilean rhubarb , and the avellano ( Gevuina avellana ). Fitzroya cupressoides and tepú ( Tepualia stipularis ) grow in the poorly drained soils of the Piuchén and Pirulil ranges. Before the end of the Llanquihue glaciation ,

2925-468: The island was conquered for Spain by Captain Martín Ruiz de Gamboa , who was at the head of an expedition of 110 Spaniards. Gamboa named the islands Nueva Galicia (New Galicia ) in honor of the place of origin of Rodrigo de Quiroga who as governor had organized the expedition. Gamboa established a settlement at Castro in 1567, which later became the seat of a Jesuit mission and was capital of

2990-417: The island's northern and eastern shores. The eastern shore is marked by a series of peninsulas and inlets, notably Estero de Castro where the capital, Castro, is located. The western part of Chiloé Island, as well as the whole of Guafo Island, is hilly and covered by forests. The hills are subdivided into two north–south ranges, Piuchén and Pirulil , separated by the lakes Cucao and Huillinco . They contain

3055-459: The island. Unlike the central region of Chile where a long war of independence resumed after a Spanish reoccupation, Chiloé never joined the Patria Vieja (Old Republic), and rather than conspiring to overthrow the local Spanish administration, its population gave Spain wide support. From 1812 on, men from Chiloé would be enlisted as soldiers and sent to fight in Chile, Bolivia and Peru for

3120-427: The late 19th century, many palafitos ( stilt houses ) were built in cities like Castro and Chonchi . Homes and hotels in the region also employ the use of wood shingles , usually painted in bright, bold colors. Depending on the region, palafitos are another distinct architecture feature of Chiloé. These are traditional fisherman's houses built on wooden stilts. Chilote is a dialect of Spanish language spoken in

3185-614: The main indigenous language of the archipelago at the arrival of the Spanish being Huilliche . A theory postulated by chronicler José Pérez García holds that the Cuncos settled in Chiloé Island in Pre-Hispanic times as consequence of a push from more northern Huilliches , who in turn were being displaced by Mapuches . Cuncos, Huilliches and Mapuches all belong to the wider Mapuche macro-ethnicity. The Cuncos, who were

3250-403: The main island. Chiloé's first ethnically identifiable inhabitants are believed to be the Chonos , a seafaring nomadic people. This has led to the assumption that Chonos were the people who left behind most of the abundant shell middens (chonchales) of the Chiloé Archipelago, yet this claim is unverified. There are various placenames in the Chiloé Archipelago with Chono etymologies , despite

3315-523: The mainland, so that by 1863 Puerto Montt was made capital of its own province, and, in 1927, the Chiloé Archipelago was incorporated into a new province headed by Puerto Montt. The cathedral in Ancud was destroyed and Castro was badly damaged by the Great Chilean earthquake of 1960, the most powerful ever recorded. In 1982, the provincial capital, after over 20 years, was returned to Castro. Since

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3380-538: The mainland, taking up work as railway navvies in southern Chile or in husbandry operations owned by Chileans in Argentine Patagonia. Some Chiloes also established themselves as independent settlers, as was the case of many in Valle Manso , Río Negro Territory . During the late 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, Chiloé lost economic and political importance to Puerto Montt on

3445-423: The northeast and southeast of the archipelago lie the Gulf of Ancud and the Gulf of Corcovado ; the former is part of the Sea of Chiloé. Some 40 kilometres (25 miles) southwest of Chiloé Island lies Guafo Island , the southernmost island of the archipelago. Chiloé Island is separated from the Chilean mainland by the 2-kilometre-wide (1.2-mile) Chacao Channel in the north. Most of the good harbors are located on

3510-507: The province according to the 2002 census was 154,775; of this, 44% lived in rural areas, according to the National Statistics Institute (INE). Chiloé's people are known as Chilotes . The population descends mainly from the mixture of natives ( Huilliches , Cuncos , Payos and Chonos) and the Spanish, with later contributions of Chileans from other regions and a few Europeans (e.g., Germans and Croats ). During

3575-422: The province until the founding of Ancud in 1768. In early colonial times, the Spanish introduced a number of Old World crops and agricultural systems. Some of these cultivars and systems ended with poor results, yet the introduction of pigs and apple trees proved a success. Pigs benefited from abundant shellfish and algae exposed by the large tides . Wheat came to be grown in lesser quantities compared to

3640-473: The royalist cause. In December 1817, the island became the last stronghold of Spanish royalists (together with Valdivia ) fleeing from the Chilean mainland. A Chilean expedition led by Thomas Cochrane, 10th Earl of Dundonald disembarked 60 men under command of William Miller but failed to conquer it after the small but disastrous Battle of Agüi . Another unsuccessful conquest attempt occurred in 1824, when Jorge Beauchef , who had disembarked in Chiloé Island,

3705-660: The separation of the archipelago from the rest of the Spanish occupation in Chile, and the Mapuches occupation or destruction of all the Spanish settlements between the Bío-Bío River and the Chacao channel following the disaster of Curalaba in 1598. According to Chilotan mythology, the origin of the archipelago lies in a fierce battle between two serpents, Ten Ten-Vilu ( ten , "earth", vilu , "snake") and Coi Coi-Vilu ( Co , "water", vilu , "snake"). The population of

3770-420: The southern parts of Chiloé Island constituted open landscapes. This changed around 12,500 years ago when the climate became warmer and forests colonized the region. The upper portions of Cordillera del Piuchén , locally known as la Campaña , have a Magellanic moorland vegetation. The arrival of agriculture in pre-Hispanic times was the origin of the patchy landscape of pastures and farms that now dominates

3835-417: The village of Chacao, Ancud Comuna , on Route 5 at the northern end of Chiloé Island, across the Chacao Channel with the village of Pargua , Calbuco Comuna , on the mainland. The archipelago's original vegetation is Valdivian temperate rainforest , a forest with a very dense understory and a large diversity of plant species, including many mosses and ferns . The western and southern portions of

3900-530: Was ambushed at the Battle of Mocopulli . Only on 15 January 1826 did the Royalist forces of Antonio de Quintanilla negotiate a surrender to a new military expedition led by Ramon Freire , and the island was fully incorporated into the independent Republic of Chile, although Spain did not recognize Chile until 1844. The last Spanish military governors were: Charles Darwin arrived in Chiloé on 28 June 1834 and

3965-400: Was based there for six months, writing about his impressions of southern Chile in his diaries . The archipelago had been an old royalist stronghold, and its inhabitants were known during the 19th century for complaining about not having a king. Darwin wrote of Chiloé in 1834: "The Indians ended all their complaints by saying, 'And it is only because we are poor Indians, and know nothing; but it

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4030-495: Was inspired by various local beliefs, mainly myths, legends and witchcraft from the Big Island of Chiloé . In one of the episodes, "The bowels of death", a witch uses a macuñ or magic breastplate both to fly, to become bad light, as well as to become an animal. The macuñ is shown as a stylized piece of leather similar to a corset, made with baby skin and horsehair threads. The same episode makes mention of hexes with cemetery land,

4095-458: Was made capital of the Chiloé in 1767. In 1784, Chiloé Island was made a direct dependency of the colonial viceroyalty of Peru as a consequence of the Bourbon reforms , while continental Chile was a captaincy-general within the viceroyalty. The change of capital and shift to dependency corresponded to a new strategic view of the Chiloé Archipelago. While initially Chiloé was viewed by Spaniards as

4160-527: Was not so when we had a King. ' " As Chiloé had been a defensive stronghold during colonial times, the Republic of Chile used Chiloé as a starting point for its territorial expansion into the southern territories. The expedition to the Straits of Magellan , that founded Fuerte Bulnes in 1843, was assembled in Chiloé. In the 1850s, Chiloé was again instrumental in the logistical support of the colonization of

4225-459: Was the last Spanish possession in Chile, successfully repelling patriot invasions until 1826 . In the 19th century, the archipelago was a starting point for the Chilean colonisation of Patagonia . Not only were major expeditions assembled in Chiloé, but thousands of Chilotes migrated to the sparsely populated mainland to work in sheep-raising estancias , as railway navvies , or to become independent settlers. Belief in witchcraft has been common in

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