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80-451: Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are chronicled in guidebooks , and on online databases, with the details of how to climb the route (called the beta ), and who made the first ascent (or FA) and the coveted first free ascent (or FFA). Climbers will try to ascend

160-406: A first ascent (or FA), whereas climbers who ascend a new route and do it without aid have made the more coveted first free ascent (FFA). As a further refinement, some have argued that when free climbing a specific route single-pitch route, 'highball bouldering' is a better "style" than 'traditional climbing', which is itself a better "style" than 'sport climbing'. A further refinement of "style"

240-583: A 'layback' (see image) which involves using the legs and arms in opposing forces to ascend cracks in corners or dihedrals. Ascending corners naturally leads to the related technique of 'bridging' (also called 'stemming'), which involves spreading the legs to gain traction on the opposing walls of the corner. In places where the walls are completely opposing, the technique of bridging becomes the even more spectacular technique of 'chimneying'. Laybacking and bridging enabled rock climbers to ascend dramatic new types of specialist climbing routes that typically combined

320-449: A belay consists of a rope that runs from a climber to another person (the belayer) who can stop the climber's fall. In the modern day, most climbers use a variety of gear to belay, notably harnesses and belay devices . Thus, in a typical modern climbing setup, one end of the rope is fixed to the harness of the climber, most often by a figure-eight knot . The rope then passes through some form of climbing protection . Protection may come in

400-417: A companion who stays at the bottom, self-belaying is also possible as an advanced technical climbing technique. A munter hitch is a belaying method that creates a friction brake by tying a special knot around an appropriate carabiner . This type of belay, however, causes the rope to become twisted. It can also be used on double ropes. Simply tie the munter hitch with both ropes as if they were one. Before

480-434: A harness and anchored to the wall. In this case rope management becomes more important, and the anchor is constructed in the traditional manner. Climbers now almost exclusively use a belay device to achieve controllable rope friction. Before the invention of these devices, climbers used other belay methods, which are still useful in emergencies. The person climbing is said to be on belay when one of these belaying methods

560-434: A natural climbing route. However, many modern newcomers now start on the safest type, which is bouldering, and some of them never leave bouldering. Whereas outdoor climbing/mountaineering clubs were also an important pathway for instruction, many modern climbers now start by getting lessons at indoor climbing walls — in either bouldering or leading — and some then move on to competition climbing teams and never really appear in

640-624: A new artificial indoor climbing wall built in a corridor of Leeds University began to produce climbers who, after exclusively training as students on the wall, could climb some of the hardest routes in Britain when they ventured into the outdoor environment. This led to an explosion in indoor climbing that was further amplified by the rise of bolted sport climbing and of bouldering, which are also suited to indoor climbing. Modern indoor climbing walls and gyms include artificial versions of almost every type of obstacle and climbing hold encountered in

720-547: A precise hooking technique. Hooking is also used in competition climbing to gain a stable resting position, allowing the lactic acid to be shaken from the arms before carrying on. The 'heel-toe cam' is where a 'heel hook' and a 'toe hook' are used simultaneously to act like a 'jamming' technique (i.e. they keep each other in place by their opposing force), and is a regular requirement in competition lead climbing. The development of modern climbing routes which are typically severely overhanging (or with roofs), and which are now almost

800-692: A route onsight , however, a climber can spend years projecting a route before they make a redpoint ascent. Routes range from a few metres to over a 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) in height, and traverses can reach 4,500 metres (14,800 ft) in length. They include slabs , faces , cracks and overhangs/roofs . Popular rock types are granite (e.g. El Capitan ), limestone (e.g. Verdon Gorge ), and sandstone (e.g. Saxon Switzerland ) but 43 types of climbable rock types have been identified. Artificial indoor climbing walls are popular and competition climbing — which takes place on artificial walls — became an Olympic sport in 2020 . Contemporary rock climbing

880-502: A route — either in retreat (e.g. self-rescue climbing ) or because they have completed it and there is no other way down. This requires the technique of abseiling (or rappelling in North America), where climbers use abseil devices to move down a fixed rope that has been anchored to a point at the top of the route. Climbing routes can range from just a few metres in height to over 1,000 metres (3,300 ft). The higher

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960-423: A significantly heavier partner, it is sometimes recommended that the belayer anchor themselves to the ground. The anchor point does not prevent a fall, but prevents the belayer from being pulled upwards during a fall. This is normally not used when lead belaying. To set up this anchor the belayer should place a piece of directional protection (i.e., a nut or cam) into a crack below their body, or tie themselves by

1040-464: A strong tradition of climbing developed their own grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become internationally dominant for each type of climbing, which has contributed to the standardization of grades worldwide. For free climbing — in both traditional and sport climbing formats — the most dominant worldwide grading systems are the French system (e.g. ... 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, ...), and

1120-412: A traditional belay device, but rather ties two or more people into loops on the working end of the rope as a belay team, who walk backward as the participant ascends the element, taking up slack as they go. Additional participants can be tied into the loops or left free to help hold clipped in members of the belay team in place. The Australian belay requires a clear runway back from the element almost double

1200-426: A wide range of types and disciplines that vary with the style being adopted on the specific climbing route , the length and number of pitches of the route, the level and type of climbing protection that will be employed on the route, and whether the climb is in a competition climbing format. A climb can involve a combination of several types depending on the skill and risk appetite of the climber(s). For example,

1280-677: Is 9c  (5.15d), and the hardest bouldering grade is V17  (9A). The main types of rock climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe, with bouldering in Fontainebleau , big wall climbing in the Dolomites , and single-pitch climbing in both the Lake District and in Saxony . Climbing ethics initially focused on "fair means" and the transition from aid climbing to free climbing and latterly to clean climbing ;

1360-399: Is a free climb by a climber who had never seen the route beforehand, and had never been told about its challenges and how to overcome them (called the beta ). If such a climber completes the route on their first attempt it is called an onsight . Where the climber had never seen the route beforehand but had been given beta on it, it is called a flash . A free climb where the climber attempts

1440-437: Is being undertaken and the type of climbing that is being followed. For example, bouldering needs the least equipment outside of climbing shoes , climbing chalk , and optional crash pads . Sport climbing adds ropes , harnesses , belay devices , and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts . Traditional climbing adds the need to carry a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices . Multi-pitch climbing, and

1520-400: Is belaying, "OK" When the slack rope is taken in by the belayer and it becomes tight and therefore the belayer doesn't need to take the rope in any more the climber says "That's me" During the climb, the climber may ask the belayer for "Slack", or to take in the rope "Take in" (the command "Take in slack" is never used as it could be misinterpreted) If the climber is about to fall and needs

1600-506: Is essential because of the smooth and featureless nature of the surface. One of the most notable exponents of the 'smearing' technique is Welch climber Johnny Dawes who used smearing it to create some of the hardest traditional slab climbs in the world such as the Indian Face and The Quarryman . Dawes is also noted for his unique "no-hands demonstrations" where he climbs extreme-graded rock climbing routes but uses only his feet and

1680-724: Is focused on free climbing where — unlike with aid climbing — no mechanical aids can be used to assist with upward momentum. Free-climbing includes the discipline of bouldering on short 5-metre (16 ft) routes, of single-pitch climbing on up to 60–70-metre (200–230 ft) routes, and of multi-pitch climbing — and big wall climbing — on routes of up to 1,000 metres (3,300 ft). Free-climbing can be done as free solo climbing with no climbing protection whatsoever, or as lead climbing that uses either removable temporary protection (called traditional climbing ), or permanently fixed bolted protection (called sport climbing ). The evolution in technical milestones in rock climbing

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1760-757: Is known for its detailed holds and cracks (e.g Malham Cove , Céüse , and the Verdon Gorge ), and on sandstone, which can have sculpted features (e.g. Indian Creek , Saxon Switzerland , Rocklands , and Fontainebleau ). However, climbing areas have been identified on over 43 climbable rock types including on gritstone (e.g. Stanage Edge ), on slate (e.g. Dinorwic quarry ), on dolorite (e.g. Fair Head ), on iron rock (e.g. Hueco Tanks ), on gneiss (e.g. Magic Wood  [ fr ] ), on dolomite (e.g. Tri Cime ), on monzonite (e.g., The Buttermilks ), and on quartzite (e.g. Mount Arapiles ). Climbers also differentiate routes by challenges encountered and

1840-411: Is most commonly done by pairs using lead climbing , they have both been rope solo climbed , simul climbed (particularly for setting speed climbing records), and only Freerider has been free solo climbed (see photo). The broad range of types is also helpful in giving novice climbers alternative paths into the sport. Once, the main pathway was starting as a 'belayer' to an outdoor lead climber on

1920-466: Is needed, and it is length that differentiates the three major disciplines of rock climbing which are: The type of climbing protection employed also materially influences the type of rock climbing techniques used on a climbing route, regardless of whether it is single-pitch or multi-pitch (or big wall); protection doesn't apply to bouldering as none is used. The following broad distinctions are made in rock climbing types, which have been split into whether

2000-402: Is often used so that the climber is not brought to a sudden jarring stop. After a climber falls, the belayer can gently lower the climber to a safe point where climbing can be resumed. When a climber is finished climbing, belayers can lower climbers to the ground safely. The belayer should keep the rope locked off in the belay device whenever the climber is not moving. As the climber moves on

2080-541: Is tied to the development in rock-climbing equipment (e.g. rubber shoes , spring-loaded camming devices , and campus boards ) and of rock-climbing technique (e.g. jamming, crimping, and smearing). The most dominant grading systems worldwide are the 'French numerical' and 'American YDS' systems for lead climbing, and the V-grade and the Font-grade for bouldering. As of October 2024, the hardest lead climbing grade

2160-406: Is used. A belay device is a piece of climbing equipment that improves belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage his or her duties with minimal physical effort. Belay devices are designed to allow a weak person to easily arrest a climber's fall with maximum control, while avoiding twisting, heating or severely bending the rope. While the task of belaying is typically assigned to

2240-406: The 'belayer' will lock the rope, and the 'lead climber' will fall until they hang from the last 'protection device' that they had clipped the rope into. This protection can be removable (which is called traditional climbing ), or permanently fixed into the rock (which is called sport climbing ). If the 'lead climber' falls, the 'belayer' will immediately lock the rope using their belay device, and

2320-517: The American system (e.g. ... 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, ...). The UIAA system (e.g. ... VII, VIII, IX, X, ...) is popular in Germany and central Europe. Above the lowest grades, these three systems can be exactly aligned at each level. For example, Silence is graded 9c (French), 5.15d (American), and XII+ (UIAA). Climbing Too Many Requests If you report this error to

2400-541: The Trango Towers , present additional physical challenges. Traversing routes, by their horizontal nature, can extend to great distances, and the world's longest rock climb is the 4,500-metre (14,800 ft) El Capitan Girdle Traverse on El Capitan . Famous routes have been created on almost every climbable rock type, and particularly so on granite , which is noted for its grip and large cracks (e.g. El Capitan , Joshua Tree or Squamish ), on limestone , which

2480-489: The techniques required to overcome them. Some of the earliest rock climbs were smooth off-vertical ' slab climbs ' where balance and shoe grip (or 'smearing') were key; famous modern examples include Indian Face in the UK. Climbers then acquired the techniques to ascend near-vertical ' crack climbs ' by 'laybacking', 'bridging', and 'jamming'; famous examples include Super Crack , The Phoenix and Grand Illusion (all in

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2560-399: The 'belayer' held the rope fast — which they would have to do manually by looping the rope around their waist — the 'lead climber' would hang from the rope if it had stayed looped around a spike of rock — if it didn't, they fell to the ground. Modern rock climbers use mechanical protection devices placed along the route, into which the 'lead climber' clips the rope as they ascend; if they fall,

2640-429: The 'lead climber' is forced to leave large gaps between protection points — called a runout — so that any fall will be large (called a whipper ). The wide variety of types of rock climbing offers safer ways for beginners to access the sport before learning to lead climb, including top roping and bouldering . Finally, while rock climbing mostly involves ascending a route, climbers might also need to be able to descend

2720-409: The 'lead climber' will fall twice the distance that they are above their last piece of climbing protection. If this piece of climbing protection fails — a risk of traditional climbing — and rips away from the rock, they will keep falling until their next piece of protection holds the rope (a zipper fall is where several pieces fail). On some routes, the opportunities for placing protection are poor so

2800-538: The ICCC added bouldering and speed climbing as new events. In 2007, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) took over the governance of the sport and its two major competitions, the annual Climbing World Cup and the biennial Climbing World Championships ; it debuted as a full Olympic-medal sport in 2020: The rock-climbing equipment needed varies quite significantly with the route that

2880-788: The US). Climbers then took on blank vertical ' face climbs ' by 'crimping' and 'edging' on tiny holds, which required bolts drilled into the rock for their climbing protection; famous face routes include The Face  [ de ] and Wallstreet  [ de ] (Germany), La Rage de Vivre and Super Plafond (France), and To Bolt or Not to Be and Just Do It (the US). Eventually, they migrated to routes that were also severely and continually overhanging and which required 'dynos' (or jumps) to reach holds; famous examples include Action Directe (Germany), Realization/Biographie (France), La Rambla (Spain), Jumbo Love (the US), La Dura Dura (Spain) and Silence (Norway). In 1964,

2960-556: The Wikimedia System Administrators, please include the details below. Request from 172.68.168.133 via cp1102 cp1102, Varnish XID 548815684 Upstream caches: cp1102 int Error: 429, Too Many Requests at Thu, 28 Nov 2024 05:46:56 GMT Belaying Belaying is a critical part of climbing safety. Correct belaying methods allow a belayer to hold the entire weight of the climber with relatively little force and easily arrest falls. In its simplest form,

3040-416: The amount of friction on the rope by altering the rope's position. In one position, the rope runs freely through the belay device. In another position, it can be held without the rope sliding through the device because of the friction on the rope. This is called "locking off" the rope. While the rope is locked off, the climber's fall should be arrested and they will be left suspended, but safe, somewhere below

3120-439: The belay loop to a rock or tree. The anchor arrests any upward force produced during a fall thus preventing the belayer from "taking off". Unlike belays set up at the top of a climb, it is not usually necessary for belayers at the bottom to have more than one point of protection as long as the single piece is sturdy and safe – "bomber" in climber jargon. During multipitch climbs it is sometimes necessary to belay while sitting in

3200-432: The belayer stopping a long fall. The Australian belay is used on many high ropes courses for supporting participants on vertical, as opposed to traversing, elements. The Australian belay allows untrained participants to engage in the safety and support of their fellow participants on an element, and allows a single facilitator to oversee an element with multiple individuals participating. The Australian belay does not use

3280-436: The belayer to know & take in the rope, they may say "Tight" for a tight rope or "Take In" to take the rope in. When the climber is in a safe position independent of the belay "Safe" or "I'm safe". When the belayer has taken the climber off the belay "Off belay" Warning shouts for falling objects, "Rope!"; when throwing a rope off the edge "Rock!"; when a rock has been dislodged and is falling. When top rope belaying for

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3360-783: The beta information between online databases. Important new first ascents are also chronicled and discussed in specialist rock climbing media, including climbing magazines and climbing journals with notable examples including Alpinist , and Climbing , which are read globally. These are supplemented by popular online climbing websites such as UK Climbing and PlanetMountain , as well as country-level specialist rock climbing magazines such as Desnivel (in Spanish), Grimper  [ fr ] (in French) and Klettern  [ de ] (in German). The sport of rock climbing includes

3440-409: The bottom of the climb also means that if the leader falls, the belayer experiences a sudden pull inwards towards the rock and may be pulled off their feet or into the rock. Communication is also extremely important in belaying. Climbers should wait for verbal confirmation from the belayer that they are ready to begin. A climber is said to be "on belay" when they are correctly attached to the rope and

3520-433: The bottom of the route in order to decrease the angle of the rope through the first piece of protection. This, in turn, decreases the force pulling it up and out of the rock if the leader falls. Standing too far away from the rock can result in protection unzipping , with the lowest piece being pulled away from the rock, followed by the next, until all of the protection may potentially be pulled out. Standing too far away from

3600-429: The climb, the belayer must make sure that the climber has the right amount of rope by paying out or pulling in excess rope. If the climber falls, they free-fall the distance of the slack or unprotected rope before the friction applied by the belayer starts to slow their descent. Too much slack on the rope increases the distance of a possible fall, but too little slack on the rope may cause the climber to "whip" or swing into

3680-555: The climber is free climbing. With the development of the safer form of sport climbing in the 1980s, lead climbing competitions on bolted artificial climbing walls became popular. In 1988, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) created rules and created the International Council for Competition Climbing  [ de ] (ICCC) to regulate competition climbing , and in 1998,

3760-410: The climber prior to the climb. Walkie-talkies can be used in areas where communication is limited. When the climber is tied onto the rope and is ready to climb "Ready to climb" When the belayer has attached the rope to the belay device and is ready to belay "Climb when ready" (or in recent years, "On belay" or "Belay ready") When the climber is about to start climbing, "Climbing" When the belayer

3840-435: The conservation of energy and thus climb efficiently. Where possible, the arms should be kept straight, thus holding the body weight on the joints and not on flexed arm muscles, with the 'climbing' driven by the stronger legs. The hips should be kept close to the wall, which often involves the technique of 'back-stepping', where instead of the climber using their big toe to 'toe-into' a foot-hold, they rotate their hips and use

3920-533: The corners and cracks needed for these techniques to work. Famous early examples include Joe Brown 's Cenotaph Corner in 1952 in Dinas Cromlech in Wales. Notable modern examples of routes that require advanced laybacking and bridging include the much-photographed crux-pitch of the big wall route, Pre-Muir Wall , on El Capitan, and the groove-pitch of the multi-pitch route, The Quarryman , in Wales. One of

4000-465: The crack), the "arm jam", the "hand/fist jam", the "toe jam", and the "finger jam". Jamming techniques were notably employed on the long granite cracks of El Capitan, where they were used to free up important routes such as The Nose and The Salathe Wall , as well as on the photographic sandstone 'splitter cracks' of Indian Creek such as on the famous crack climbing route, Supercrack . Finger jamming

4080-412: The development of training tools such as the hangboard that increase the tendon strength needed for crimping; however, it is also a source of tendon injury. Crimping and edging are most associated with ' face climbing ' where there are no big features on which to 'layback' or to 'bridge', and no cracks in which to 'jam'. They can also feature in traversing as was dramatically shown on the crux pitch of

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4160-399: The famous Dawn Wall route in the film, The Dawn Wall . Many of the hardest modern routes feature painful micro-crimps from which the climber must launch a small "dyno" (i.e. a jump or lunge) to reach the next micro-crimps. Notable examples include the crux of the sport climbing route, La Dura Dura , and the crux of the bouldering problem, Burden of Dreams . 'Hooking' involves using

4240-463: The famous neighbouring El Capitan routes of The Nose and Freerider both require big wall climbing techniques as they are over 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) high. They can be ascended using aid climbing (on either all or just on the hardest pitches of the route) or can be fully free climbed ( The Nose is much harder and only rarely free climbed). As both are not bolted, they require traditional climbing protection to be inserted, and while it

4320-410: The form of fixed protection, such as permanent pitons or bolts , or in the form of removable protection, such as nuts , hexes , and spring-loaded camming devices . The other end of the rope is attached to the belayer, who remains lower than the climber. The belayer wears a harness to which a belay device is attached. The belay device acts as a friction brake, and allows the belayer to easily vary

4400-405: The hardest technical grades climbed in the outdoor natural environment. The ever-growing volume and range of new rock climbing routes are recorded via specialist diagrams called topos , which are collated in climbing guidebooks and more latterly on large online rock climbing databases such as theCrag.com and MountainProject.com . Guidebooks and databases record the local consensus view on

4480-417: The holds became smaller and smaller, until they were barely large enough to accommodate the tips of fingers of the smallest part of a toe. 'Crimping' means holding the fingers in a tight line to hold onto the smallest holds, while 'edging' involves a similar process but with the "edges" of the climbing shoe. A related technique is that of 'pinching' which is used on even smaller holds. Crimping is associated with

4560-399: The invention of belay devices, belayers could add friction to the rope by wrapping it around their body; friction between rope and the belayer's body was used to arrest a fall. This is known as a body belay , a hip belay , or a waist belay and is still sometimes used when climbing quickly over easier ground. On vertical rock it is no longer used as it is less reliable and more apt to injure

4640-434: The last piece of protection. Generally, the climber will not fall any farther than the length between them and their last piece of protection, plus the length of the rope between them and their last piece of protection. That is, if a climber climbs three feet higher than the last piece of protection in the rock, and then falls, the climber will fall six feet in total: three to the protection, and three below that. A dynamic rope

4720-404: The legs and feet to grab — or "hook" — onto features on the rock. While hooking is a long-standing technique in rock climbing, competition climbers need to be able to master every type of hook including "toe hooks", "heel hooks" and "leg hooks" when trying to overcome the challenges of route setters, who have developed particular challenges on artificial climbing walls that can only be overcome with

4800-407: The level of difficulty of the routes, however, where this is materially lower than the actual difficulty of the routes, it is termed sandbagging . The individual moves needed to complete a given rock climbing route are called the beta , and popular rock climbing routes have detailed step-by-step video guides of their beta available online, and which has led to legal disputes over the ownership of

4880-415: The most important revolutions in rock climbing technique was the development of 'jamming'. This involves placing — or "jamming" — the climber's body parts into cracks in the rock which they then pull on to gain upward momentum. Jamming brought free climbing to the world of ' crack climbing ', and rock climbers developed the technique for almost every body part, including the "body jam" (i.e. the whole body in

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4960-553: The natural environment. Artificial walls include novel features such as volume holds and sloper holds , which indoor route setters use to challenge climbers in very specific and unusual ways. As most competition climbing events are held on indoor walls, many contemporary climbers have spent their careers training and competing on artificial indoor walls. This revolution in the design of indoor climbing holds has affected how climbers now approach outdoor routes. Modern indoor walls can have their routes graded for technical difficulty in

5040-429: The outdoor environment. The wide range of types has helped more people access the sport in the way that best suits them. In rock climbing, the term "style" principally refers to whether the climber used any artificial aid to help them to ascend the climbing route, which is called aid climbing , or whether they used no aid whatsoever, which is called free climbing . Climbers who ascend a new route but using aid have made

5120-430: The outside edge of their opposite leg; this gives them greater upward reach while keeping their hips close to the rock face. Linked to 'back-stepping' is the use of the free leg as a counter-balance to avoid the climber swinging away from the rock, and to support other movements, which is called 'flagging'. Good climbing technique emphasizes the use of the legs to hold body weight and to gain upward momentum, which includes

5200-524: The related big wall climbing, adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes . Finally, aid climbing uses unique equipment to assist the climber in their upward movement (e.g. aiders ). The equipment used in rock climbing can be grouped into the following categories: The development of rock-climbing techniques was as important as the development of rock-climbing equipment in increasing standards and reaching new grade milestones. Several techniques were particularly notable for their impact on

5280-484: The rock at a high velocity, possibly injuring themselves. It is important for the belayer to closely monitor the climber's situation, as the belayer's role is crucial to the climber's safety. When belaying on overhanging bolted routes, particularly indoors, belayers often stand well back from the rock so that they can watch the climber more easily. However, when belaying a lead climber who is using traditional protection, can be very dangerous. The belayer should stand near to

5360-434: The rope if the 'lead climber' falls. Once the 'lead climber' reaches the top, they create an anchor from which they can act as the 'belayer' (but from above), controlling the rope while the 'second' ascends. Another key concept is that of climbing protection (or 'gear' or 'rack'). Early 20th-century rock climbers relied on the 'lead climber' looping the rope around natural spikes of rock as they ascended. If they fell, and

5440-447: The rope is correctly attached to the belayer by an appropriate belay method. Commonly-used commands in US climbing communities are: At times, it may be impossible for climbing partners to hear one another, as in bad weather, by the sea, or near a busy road. Silent belay communication is possible by tugging the rope. These are not standardized and should be communicated between the belayer and

5520-424: The route and overcome its challenges with a rope attached to their harness. The other member — the 'belayer' (or 'second') — will remain standing at the base of the route but controlling the other end of the rope, which is called belaying . The 'belayer' uses a mechanical belay device to attach the rope to their harness from which they can 'pay-out' the rope as the 'lead climber' ascends but with which they can lock

5600-440: The route many times before finally ascending it is called a redpoint ; most major new FFAs in rock climbing are done as redpoints. In 2021, German climber Alexander Megos expanded that "style" in rock climbing should include a detailed understanding of the conditions in which an ascent was made, saying "It seems like the climbing community is not differentiating at all and rarely mentioning HOW things are climbed". He felt this

5680-440: The route, the greater the danger and the greater range of techniques and equipment needed, however, the technical difficulty of a route is not correlated to its height. Climbers have spent as many years trying to ascend 4-metre (13 ft) routes such as Burden of Dreams , as they have on 1,000-metre (3,300 ft) routes like The Nose . Rock climbing routes at high-altitude, such as on big wall routes like Eternal Flame on

5760-403: The rubber grip of the climbing shoes to gain purchase on a featureless rock face with no edges or holds to step on. The advent of specialist rubber-soled climbing shoes dramatically increased the surfaces that climbers could "smear" on. While the technique is used to some degree on almost every type of rock climbing route, it is most associated with ' slab climbing ' where the ability to 'smear'

5840-544: The same manner as outdoor natural routes. The MoonBoard climbing wall has a 'grid' of 200 climbing holds that can be climbed in over 50,000 sequences, with sequences created and graded by an online community. Even the 2024 Olympic artificial climbing walls were graded with the women's walls at up to 5.14c  (8c+) for lead and V12  (8A+) for bouldering, and the men's walls at up to 5.14d  (9a) for lead and V14  (8B+) for bouldering. Artificial walls have been created that have been estimated to be at or above

5920-597: The smearing technique for upward momentum. 'Palming' is smearing with the open hands, and is used on smooth holds that cannot be gripped by the fingers, which are called 'slopers'. Palming is also often used when 'bridging' and 'chimneying' where the hands are pushing against the rock surfaces. The extensive use of large volume holds (also sloper holds) by route setters in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering has also made 'smearing' and 'palming' an important technique for contemporary competition climbers (see photo). As climbers tried harder and harder routes,

6000-453: The sport — and on particular types of climbing routes — and are key for any aspiring rock climber to master. The development of route setters in competition climbing , who can artificially fine-tune a route to require the accurate use of specific techniques, has further increased the range of techniques that contemporary rock climbers need to master. Rock-climbing technique is built on having an effective body position and balance to maximize

6080-523: The standard in the main competition lead climbing events, has led to greater emphasis and refinement of many more advanced techniques, notable of which are: Climbing routes in rock climbing are given a grade that reflects the technical difficulty—and in some cases the risks and commitment level—of the route. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade, but it will be amended to reflect the consensus view of subsequent ascents, and recorded in online databased or physical guidebooks . While many countries with

6160-424: The technique of 'high-stepping' (i.e. lifting the feet above the waistline), which can be combined with 'heel hooking' (see image below), and the technique of 'rock-over' / 'rock-on' weight-transfer movements (i.e. transferring the weight to the higher leg but without explicitly pulling up on the arms). Early rock climbers began to distinguish themselves from general mountaineering scrambling techniques by executing

6240-502: The use of bolted protection on outdoor routes is a source of ongoing debate in climbing. The sport's profile was increased when lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing became medal events in the Summer Olympics, and with the popularity of films such as Free Solo and The Dawn Wall . A key concept in many types of rock climbing is that of the ' lead climbing pair '. One member — the 'lead climber' — will try to climb

6320-422: Was a particular concern in bouldering where the use of knee pads and whether the climb was commenced as a full sit start (and from what point), can affect the technical difficulty of the climb, and needed to be recorded alongside the ascent of the route itself. The length of the climbing route materially influences the type of rock-climbing techniques that can be used and the type of rock-climbing equipment that

6400-412: Was also used to open harder routes up very thin cracks on many rock types around the world, and remains an important technique on the world's hardest traditional climbing routes — where cracks are needed to insert the temporary climbing protection — with notable examples such as on Cobra Crack (and its famous and painful one-finger jam) and on the micro-cracks of Rhapsody . 'Smearing' involves using

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