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61-696: The word stems from the Latin rochettum (from the Late Latin roccus , connected to the Old High German roch , roc and the Anglo-Saxon rocc ; Dutch koorhemd, rochet , French rochet , German Rochett, Chorkleid , Italian rocchetto , Spanish roquete ), which means an ecclesiastical vestment. In the Catholic Church , cardinals , bishops and certain other dignitaries use

122-411: A pan flute . Fortuny pleats are crisp pleats set in silk fabrics by designer Mariano Fortuny in the early 20th century, using a secret pleat-setting process which is still not understood. Honeycomb pleats are narrow, rolled pleats used as a foundation for smocking . Kick pleats are short pleats leading upwards from the bottom hem of garments such as skirts or coats, usually at the back. They allow

183-534: A "decline and fall", as Edward Gibbon put it, of imperial society. Writers taking this line relied heavily on the scandalous behavior of the Julio-Claudian dynasty and the bad emperors reported by Tacitus and other writers and later by the secret history of Procopius , who hated his royal employers to such a degree that he could not contain himself about their real methods and way of life any longer. They, however, spoke elegant Latin. The Protestants changed

244-404: A 5:1 ratio. They also create a bulkier seam. Inverted box pleats have the "box" on the inside rather than the outside. Cartridge pleats are used to gather a large amount of fabric into a small waistband or armscye without adding bulk to the seam. This type of pleating also allows the fabric of the skirt or sleeve to spring out from the seam. During the 15th and 16th centuries, this form of pleating

305-406: A decadency, that it became nothing better than a barbarous jargon. It is the style of these times that is given the name of Low Latin .... What indeed could be expected from this language, at a time when the barbarians had taken possession of Europe, but especially of Italy; when the empire of the east was governed by idiots; when there was a total corruption of morals; when the priests and monks were

366-554: A large empire, Latin tended to become simpler, to keep above all what it had of the ordinary." The origin of the term 'Late Latin' remains obscure. A notice in Harper's New Monthly Magazine of the publication of Andrews' Freund's Lexicon of the Latin Language in 1850 mentions that the dictionary divides Latin into ante-classic, quite classic, Ciceronian, Augustan, post-Augustan and post-classic or late Latin, which indicates

427-474: A panel of fabric. Plissé pleats are narrow pleats made by gathering fabric with stitches, wetting the fabric, and "setting" the pleats by allowing the wet fabric to dry under weight or tension. Linen chemises or smocks pleated with this technique have been found in the tenth century Viking graves in Birka . Rolled pleats create tubular pleats which run the length of the fabric from top to bottom. A piece of

488-431: A rochet with fairly wide sleeves narrowing towards the wrists, where they are confined by fur cuffs. This fashion continued until, in the 17th century, the sleeves became much fuller; only in the 18th century did they develop into the familiar exaggerated balloon shape, confined at the wrists by a ribbon, beyond which a ruffle projected. About the same period, too, arose the custom of making the rochet sleeveless and attaching

549-419: A rochet, a garment that is worn over the cassock for non-Eucharistic functions, or Masses at which the wearer is not a celebrant. The Catholic rochet is a tunic of white, usually fine linen or muslin ( batiste , mull) reaching about to the knee, and distinguished from the surplice mainly by the narrower sleeves which make its arms tight-fitting. It is frequently trimmed with lace . The lower edge and

610-598: A royal levee, or commencement ceremony. It may be worn with a stole , cope and mitre for more dignified occasions (such as Baptism outside the context of the Eucharist , Solemn Evensong , royal weddings and the coronation of the Sovereign ). In general it has retained the medieval form more closely than the Roman rochet and more resembles the alb , insofar as it is of plain, very fine linen, and reaches almost to

671-579: A second unity of style, infima Latinitas , translated into English as "Low Latin" (which in the one-period case would be identical to media Latinitas ). Du Cange in the glossarial part of his Glossary identifies some words as being used by purioris Latinitatis scriptores , such as Cicero (of the Golden Age). He has already said in the Preface that he rejects the ages scheme used by some: Golden Age, Silver Age, Brass Age, Iron Age. A second category are

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732-510: A single continuous style. Of the two-style interpretations the Late Latin period of Erich Auerbach and others is one of the shortest: "In the first half of the 6th century, which witnessed the beginning and end of Ostrogoth rule in Italy , Latin literature becomes medieval. Boethius was the last 'ancient' author and the role of Rome as the center of the ancient world, as communis patria ,

793-425: A smooth line rather than springing away from the seam they have been gathered to. The pleats have a 3:1 ratio–three inches of fabric will create one inch of finished pleat. Knife pleats can be recognized by the way that they overlap in the seam. Organ pleats are parallel rows of softly rounded pleats resembling the pipes of a pipe organ . Carl Köhler suggests that these are made by inserting one or more gores into

854-437: A wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference. Pleats are categorized as pressed , that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed , falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats sewn into place are called tucks . Accordion pleats or knife pleats are a form of tight pleating which allows the garment to expand its shape when moving. Accordion pleating is also used for some dress sleeves, such as pleating

915-520: A written language, Late Latin is not the same as Vulgar Latin , or more specifically, the spoken Latin of the post Imperial period. The latter served as ancestor of the Romance languages . Although Late Latin reflects an upsurge of the use of Vulgar Latin vocabulary and constructs, it remains largely classical in its overall features, depending on the author who uses it. Some Late Latin writings are more literary and classical, but others are more inclined to

976-498: Is 900 CE. until 75 BC Old Latin 75 BC – 200 AD Classical Latin 200–700 Late Latin 700–1500 Medieval Latin 1300–1500 Renaissance Latin 1300– present Neo-Latin 1900– present Contemporary Latin Pleat A pleat ( plait in older English) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather

1037-407: Is most corrupt. By corrupt, du Cange only meant that the language had resorted to nonclassical vocabulary and constructs from various sources, but his choice of words was unfortunate. It allowed the "corruption" to extend to other aspects of society, providing fuel for the fires of religious (Catholic vs. Protestant) and class (conservative vs. revolutionary) conflict. Low Latin passed from the heirs of

1098-410: Is not contemporary, but is used by costume historians in reference to these styles as portrayed in the paintings of Antoine Watteau . Clothing features pleats for practical reasons (to provide freedom of movement to the wearer) as well as for purely stylistic reasons. Shirts and blouses typically have pleats on the back to provide freedom of movement and on the arm where the sleeve tapers to meet

1159-572: Is understanding what media , "middle", and infima , "low", mean in this context. The term media is securely connected to Medieval Latin by du Cange's own terminology expounded in the Praefatio , such as scriptores mediae aetatis , "writers of the middle age". Du Cange's Glossary takes words from authors ranging from the Christian period (Late Latin) to the Renaissance , dipping into

1220-471: The Holy Roman Empire ) under Charlemagne . Toward the end of his reign his administration conducted some language reforms. The first recognition that Late Latin could not be understood by the masses and therefore was not a lingua franca was the decrees of 813 CE by synods at Mainz , Rheims Tours that from then on preaching was to be done in a language more understandable to the people, which

1281-491: The classical period if a word originated there. Either media et infima Latinitas refers to one age, which must be the middle age covering the entire post-classical range, or it refers to two consecutive periods, infima Latinitas and media Latinitas . Both interpretations have their adherents. In the former case, the infimae appears extraneous; it recognizes the corruptio of the corrupta Latinitas which du Cange said his Glossary covered. The two-period case postulates

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1342-407: The inferioris Latinitatis scriptores , such as Apuleius (Silver Age). The third and main category are the infimae Latinitatis scriptores , who must be post-classical; that is, Late Latin, unless they are also medieval. His failure to state which authors are low leaves the issue unresolved. He does, however, give some idea of the source of his infima , which is a classical word, "lowest", of which

1403-638: The surplice (e.g., in the administering of the Sacraments , following the Decree of the Congregation of Rites of January 10, 1852). Nonetheless, since it is used at choir services and is ordered to be worn over everyday dress at Mass (Missa rom. Rit. celebr. i. 2), it may be included among liturgical vestments in the widest sense. It is worn instead of a surplice by Canons Regular as part of their habit for liturgical use alone. The earliest notice of

1464-485: The vernacular . As such it is an important source of information about changes in the spoken language, while not being a simple replication of the state of the oral language at the time. Also, Late Latin is not identical to Christian patristic Latin, used in the theological writings of the early Christian fathers. While Christian writings used a subset of Late Latin, pagans , such as Ammianus Marcellinus or Macrobius , also wrote extensively in Late Latin, especially in

1525-544: The 12th century, the rochet is mentioned under the name of camisia , by Gilbert of Limerick and by Honorius, and, somewhat later, by Gerloh of Reichersperg as tunica talaris . From the 13th century onward, it is frequently mentioned. The name rocheltum is first traceable in England; in Germany and northern France, the rochet was also called sarohi (Latinized sarrotus ) or sarcos (Latinized sarcotium ). Outside Rome,

1586-505: The 15th century, the rochet only reached halfway down the shin; by the 16th and 17th, to the knee; in the 18th and 19th, often only until mid-thigh. In the Anglican churches the rochet is a vestment peculiar to bishops and is worn by them in choir dress with the chimere , both in ministration in church and also on ceremonial occasions outside, e.g. sitting in the House of Lords , attending

1647-534: The Italian renaissance to the new philologists of the northern and Germanic climes, where it became a different concept. In Britain, Gildas ' view that Britain fell to the Anglo-Saxons because it was morally slack was already well known to the scholarly world. The northern Protestants now worked a role reversal; if the language was "corrupt", it must be symptomatic of a corrupt society, which indubitably led to

1708-753: The Silver Age and then goes on to define other ages first by dynasty and then by century (see under Classical Latin ). In subsequent editions he subsumed all periods under three headings: the First Period ( Old Latin ), the Second Period (the Golden Age) and the Third Period, "the Imperial Age", subdivided into the Silver Age, the 2nd century, and the 3rd–6th centuries together, which was a recognition of Late Latin, as he sometimes refers to

1769-491: The author. Its origins are obscure, but the Latin expression media et infima Latinitas sprang into public notice in 1678 in the title of a Glossary (by today's standards a dictionary) by Charles du Fresne, sieur du Cange . The multivolume set had many editions and expansions by other authors subsequently. The title varies somewhat; most commonly used was Glossarium Mediae et Infimae Latinitatis . It has been translated by expressions of widely different meanings. The uncertainty

1830-468: The chimere under the cope by those bishops who use this vestment. At his consecration the bishop-elect is, according to the rubric , presented to the consecrating bishops vested in a rochet only; after the laying on of hands he retires and puts on the rest of the episcopal habit; i.e. the chimere. One exception to the normal Anglican-style is the rochet worn by the previous Archbishop of Canterbury Rowan Williams , which has open-ended narrow sleeves in

1891-459: The comparative degree is inferior , "lower". In the preface, he opposes the style of the scriptores aevi inferioris (Silver Age) to the elegantes sermones , "elegant speech", the high and low styles of Latinitas defined by the classical authors. Apparently, du Cange was basing his low style on sermo humilis , the simplified speech devised by Late Latin Christian writers to address the ordinary people. Humilis (humble, humility) means "low", "of

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1952-460: The cuff. The standard men's shirt has a box pleat in the center of the back just below the shoulder or alternately one simple pleat on each side of the back. Jackets designed for active outdoor wear frequently have pleats (usually inverted box pleats) to allow for freedom of movement. Norfolk jackets have double-ended inverted box pleats at the chest and back. Skirts , dresses and kilts can include pleats of various sorts to add fullness from

2013-440: The double reverse pleat variety, were commonplace in the 1980s and 1990s, but by the late 2000s they had fallen out of favour. A bellows pocket is patch pocket with an inset box pleat to allow the pocket to expand when filled. Bellows pockets are typical of cargo pants, safari jackets , and other utilitarian garments. The pleated blinds are curtains made of a dense fabric that folds up in an accordion when lifted. The model

2074-462: The early part of the period. Late Latin formed when large numbers of non-Latin-speaking peoples on the borders of the empire were being subsumed and assimilated, and the rise of Christianity was introducing a heightened divisiveness in Roman society, creating a greater need for a standard language for communicating between different socioeconomic registers and widely separated regions of the sprawling empire. A new and more universal speech evolved from

2135-554: The end of the Silver Age as the death of Hadrian at 138 CE. His classification of styles left a century between that event and his final period, the 3rd–6th centuries CE, which was in other systems being considered Late Antiquity. Starting with Charles Thomas Crutwell's A History of Roman Literature from the Earliest Period to the Death of Marcus Aurelius , which first came out in 1877, English literary historians have included

2196-467: The end of the elbow, with the fullness of the pleat gathered closely at the cuff. This form of pleating inspired the "skirt dancing" of Loie Fuller . Accordion pleats may also be used in hand fans. Box pleats are knife pleats back-to-back, and have a tendency to spring out from the waistline. They have the same 3:1 ratio as knife pleats, and may also be stacked to form "stacked-" or "double-box pleats". These stacked box pleats create more fullness and have

2257-483: The fabric to be pleated is pinched and then rolled until it is flat against the rest of the fabric, forming a tube. A variation on the rolled pleat is the stacked pleat, which is rolled similarly and requires at least five inches of fabric per finished pleat. Both types of pleating create a bulky seam. Watteau pleats are one or two box pleats found at the back neckline of 18th century sack-back gowns and some late 19th century tea gowns in imitation of these. The term

2318-530: The feet. Where the Roman rochet is descended from the surplice, the rochet in its Anglican form is equal to that of the earlier style albs worn by priests. The main modifications have been in the (usually) baggy 'lawn' sleeves that are gathered at the wrists with a band of black or scarlet cloth. At the time of the Reformation these were still narrow, though already showing a tendency to expand. The portrait of Archbishop Warham at Lambeth , for instance, shows

2379-457: The garment to drape straight down when stationary while also allowing freedom of movement. Kingussie pleats, named after the town in Scotland , are a very rarely seen type of pleat used in some Scottish kilts . They consist of a single centrally located box pleat in the rear of the kilt with knife pleats fanning out on either side. Knife pleats are used for basic gathering purposes, and form

2440-409: The ground". The Christian writers were not interested in the elegant speech of the best or classical Latin, which belonged to their aristocratic pagan opponents. Instead, they preferred a humbler style lower in correctness, so that they might better deliver the gospel to the vulgus or "common people". Low Latin in this view is the Latin of the two periods in which it has the least degree of purity, or

2501-412: The lawn sleeves to the chimere. This remained the fashion most of the 19th century, but there has since been a tendency to revert to the earlier less exaggerated form, and the sleeves have been reattached to the rochet. The ribbon by which the wrist is confined is red, except when conducting or participating in a formal, public funeral (e.g. of a head of state), when it is black. The rochet is worn without

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2562-419: The main elements: Classical Latin, Christian Latin, which featured sermo humilis (ordinary speech) in which the people were to be addressed, and all the various dialects of Vulgar Latin . The linguist Antoine Meillet wrote: "Without the exterior appearance of the language being much modified, Latin became in the course of the imperial epoch a new language... Serving as some sort of lingua franca to

2623-499: The mainstream philologists of Latin literature. A few writers on the periphery still mention it, influenced by the dictionaries and classic writings of former times. As Teuffel's scheme of the Golden Age and the Silver Age is the generally accepted one, the canonical list of authors should begin just after the end of the Silver Age, regardless of what 3rd century event is cited as the beginning; otherwise there are gaps. Teuffel gave

2684-662: The manner of the Roman rochet. Late Latin Late Latin is the scholarly name for the form of Literary Latin of late antiquity . English dictionary definitions of Late Latin date this period from the 3rd to 6th centuries AD , and continuing into the 7th century in the Iberian Peninsula . This somewhat ambiguously defined version of Latin was used between the eras of Classical Latin and Medieval Latin . Scholars do not agree exactly when Classical Latin should end or Medieval Latin should begin. Being

2745-447: The only men of letters, and were at the same time the most ignorant and futile mortals in the world. Under these times of darkness, we must, therefore, rank that Latin, which is called lingua ecclesiastica , and which we cannot read without disgust. As 'Low Latin' tends to be muddled with Vulgar Latin , Late Latin, and Medieval Latin , and has unfortunate extensions of meaning into the sphere of socio-economics, it has gone out of use by

2806-456: The provincial synod of Cologne decreed that the vestis camisialis must be long enough to cover everyday dress entirely. A good example of the camisia of the 12th century is the rochet of Thomas Becket preserved at Dammartin in the Pas de Calais . It is the only surviving mediaeval example, and remarkable for its pleating : this, as with albs, gave greater breadth and more elaborate folds. In

2867-468: The rochet was, until well into the 14th century, a vestment common to all the clergy, and especially to those of lower orders; and so it remained in some places as late as the 19th. Moreover, in especially in the German dioceses, it had a liturgical character, being used instead of the surplice. The rochet was originally a robe-like tunic, and was therefore girdled , like the liturgical alb. As late as 1260,

2928-409: The rule of Gothic kings prevailed. Subsequently, the term Imperial Latin was dropped by historians of Latin literature, although it may be seen in marginal works. The Silver Age was extended a century, and the four centuries following made use of Late Latin. Low Latin is a vague and often pejorative term that might refer to any post-classical Latin from Late Latin through Renaissance Latin, depending on

2989-478: The scenario to fit their ideology that the church needed to be purified of corruption. For example, Baron Bielfeld , a Prussian officer and comparative Latinist, characterised the low in Low Latin, which he saw as medieval Latin, as follows: The fourth age of the Latin tongue is that of the remainder of the middle age, and the 1st centuries of modern times, during which the language fell by degrees into so great

3050-404: The sleeves may also be garnished with lace, lined with violet or red silk (in the case of prelates ), or, more rarely, embroidered borders. The rochet is proper to, and distinctive of, prelates and bishops , but the right to wear it is sometimes granted by the pope to others, especially the canons of cathedral churches. It is not a vestis sacra , and thus cannot be used as a substitute for

3111-563: The spare century in Silver Latin. Accordingly, the latter ends with the death of the last of the five good emperors in 180 CE. Other authors use other events, such as the end of the Nervan–Antonine dynasty in 192 CE or later events. A good round date of 200  CE gives a canonical list of nearly no overlap. The transition between Late Latin and Medieval Latin is by no means as easy to assess. Taking that media et infima Latinitas

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3172-466: The term already was in professional use by English classicists in the early 19th century. Instances of English vernacular use of the term may also be found from the 18th century. The term Late Antiquity meaning post-classical and pre-medieval had currency in English well before then. Wilhelm Siegmund Teuffel 's first edition (1870) of History of Roman Literature defined an early period, the Golden Age,

3233-402: The use of the rochet is found in an 9th-century inventory of vestments of the Roman clergy. In this, it is called camisia , a name which it retained at Rome until the 14th century. It seems to have been proper to particular members of the clergy by that time. Other Roman names for the vestment were succa, sucta ; it was not until the 14th century that the name rochettum appeared at Rome, but it

3294-467: The waist or hips, or at the hem, to allow freedom of movement or achieve design effects. Pleats just below the waistband on the front of the garment are typical of many styles of formal and casual trousers including suit trousers and khakis. There may be one, two, three, or no pleats, which may face either direction. When the pleats open towards the pockets they are called reverse pleats (typical of khakis and corduroy trousers) and when they open toward

3355-504: The writings of those times as "late". Imperial Latin went on into English literature; Fowler's History of Roman Literature mentions it in 1903. The beginning and end of Imperial Latin is not well defined. Politically, the excluded Augustan Period is the paradigm of imperiality, but the style cannot be grouped with either the Silver Age or with Late Latin. In 6th-century Italy, the Western Roman Empire no longer existed and

3416-399: The zipper, they are known as forward pleats . Utilitarian or very casual styles such as jeans and cargo pants are flat-front (without pleats at the waistband) but may have bellows pockets. Pleated trousers were popular before World War II; fabric rationing during the war precluded the style, and flat front became the standard by necessity of cloth shortages. Pleated pants, especially of

3477-459: Was at an end." In essence, the lingua franca of classical vestiges was doomed when Italy was overrun by the Goths, but its momentum carried it one lifetime further, ending with the death of Boethius in 524 CE. Not everyone agrees that the lingua franca came to an end with the fall of Rome, but argue that it continued and became the language of the reinstituted Carolingian Empire (predecessor of

3538-522: Was not long before it had superseded all the native designations. In the Middle Ages , it was always plain. Outside Rome, too, the vestment is met with fairly early, e.g. in the Frankish empire (9th century) as alba clericalis , in contrast to the liturgical alb , and in England (10th century) under the name of oferslip (in the 46th canon of the ecclesiastical laws of Edgar). At the beginning of

3599-435: Was one style, Mantello in a recent handbook asserts of "the Latin used in the middle ages" that it is "here interpreted broadly to include late antiquity and therefore to extend from c. AD 200 to 1500." Although recognizing "late antiquity" he does not recognize Late Latin. It did not exist and Medieval Latin began directly from 200 CE. In this view all differences from Classical Latin are bundled as though they evolved through

3660-467: Was popular in the garments of men and women. Fabric is evenly gathered using two or more lengths of basting stitches, and the top of each pleat is whipstitched onto the waistband or armscye. Cartridge pleating was resurrected in 1840s fashion to attach the increasingly full bell-shaped skirts to the fashionable narrow waist. Fluted pleats or "flutings" are very small, rounded or pressed pleats used as trimmings . The name comes from their resemblance to

3721-421: Was stated by Tours Canon 17 as rustica Romana lingua , identified as Romance , the descendant of Vulgar Latin . Late Latin as defined by Meillet was at an end; however, Pucci's Harrington's Mediaeval Latin sets the end of Late Latin when Romance began to be written, "Latin retired to the cloister" and " Romanitas lived on only in the fiction of the Holy Roman Empire ." The final date given by those authors

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