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187-566: Princes Street Gardens are two adjacent public parks in the centre of Edinburgh, Scotland, lying in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle . The Gardens were created in the 1820s following the long draining of the Nor Loch and building of the New Town , beginning in the 1760s. The loch , situated on the north side of the town, was originally an artificial creation forming part of its medieval defences and made expansion northwards difficult. The water

374-720: A treasury , a national archive , a mint , a prison , a military fortress, and the home of the Honours of Scotland – the Scottish regalia . As one of the most important strongholds in the Kingdom of Scotland , the castle was involved in many historical conflicts from the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century to the Jacobite rising of 1745 . Research undertaken in 2014 identified 26 sieges in its 1,100-year history, giving it

561-600: A "key to the Interior". In 1852, after sending his family to Britain, Livingstone travelled north to the village of Linyanti on the Zambezi river, located roughly midway between the east and west coast of the continent, where Sekeletu , chief of the Kololo , granted Livingstone authority as a nduna to lead a joint investigation of trade routes to the coast, with 27 Kololo warriors acting as interpreters and guides. They reached

748-549: A 750-bay car park. Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh Castle is a historic castle in Edinburgh , Scotland . It stands on Castle Rock , which has been occupied by humans since at least the Iron Age . There has been a royal castle on the rock since the reign of Malcolm III in the 11th century, and the castle continued to be a royal residence until 1633. From the 15th century, the castle's residential role declined, and by

935-448: A church at Edinburgh, as well as at Dumbarton and other places. Similar names are shared by many other Iron Age hillforts and may have simply described a castle that had never been taken by force or derived from an earlier Brittonic name like mag dun . An archaeological excavation in the early 1990s uncovered evidence of the site having been settled during the late Bronze Age or early Iron Age , potentially making Castle Rock

1122-651: A claim to having been "the most besieged place in Great Britain and one of the most attacked in the world". Few of the present buildings pre-date the Lang Siege of 1573 , when the medieval defences were largely destroyed by artillery bombardment. The most notable exceptions are St Margaret's Chapel from the early 12th century, which is regarded as the oldest building in Edinburgh, the Royal Palace, and

1309-441: A clear shot at a large lion, but while he was re-loading it attacked, crushing his left arm, and forced him to the ground. His life was saved by Mebalwe diverting its attention by trying to shoot the lion. He too got bitten. A man who tried spearing it was attacked just before it dropped dead. Livingstone's broken bone, even though inexpertly set by himself and Edwards, bonded strongly. He went for recuperation to Kuruman, where he

1496-674: A combination that he hoped would form an alternative to the slave trade, and impart dignity to the Africans in the eyes of Europeans. He believed that the key to achieving these goals was the navigation of the Zambezi River as a Christian commercial highway into the interior. He returned to Britain in December 1856. The Royal Geographical Society awarded him their Patron's Medal in 1855 for his explorations in Africa. Encouraged by

1683-456: A dockside bar. On 15 March 1841 the ship arrived at Simon's Bay , and for a month while it unloaded and loaded, the three stayed at Cape Town with Mr and Mrs Philip . As resident director of the LMS, Philip had continued their policy that all people were equal before God and in law, leading to disputes with Boers , and with British settlers as Philip held that Xhosa people were not to blame for

1870-475: A door-to-door tea salesman. He read books on theology, travel, and missionary enterprises extensively. This rubbed off on the young David, who became an avid reader, but he also loved scouring the countryside for animal, plant, and geological specimens in local limestone quarries. Neil feared that science books were undermining Christianity and attempted to force his son to read nothing but theology, but David's deep interest in nature and science led him to investigate

2057-589: A fabrication, as Stanley later tore out the pages of this encounter in his diary. Even Livingstone's account of this encounter does not mention these words. However, the phrase appears in a New York Herald editorial dated 10 August 1872, and the Encyclopædia Britannica and the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography both quote it without questioning its veracity. The words are famous because of their perceived humour, Livingstone being

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2244-459: A family with a strong, continuing commitment to study reinforced his education. At the age of 21, he was excited by a pamphlet his father got from the church setting out Gützlaff's call for missionaries to China, with the new concept that missionaries should be trained as medical doctors. His father was persuaded and, like many other students in Scotland, Livingstone was to support himself, with

2431-545: A fight in September 1745, but the castle remained in the hands of its ageing Deputy Governor, General George Preston , who refused to surrender. After their victory over the government army at Prestonpans on 21 September, the Jacobites attempted to blockade the castle. Preston's response was to bombard Jacobite positions within the town. After several buildings had been demolished and four people killed, Charles called off

2618-573: A force of around 1,000 English troops, led by Sir William Drury , arrived in Edinburgh. They were followed by 27 cannons from Berwick-upon-Tweed , including one that had been cast within Edinburgh Castle and captured by the English at Flodden. The English troops built an artillery emplacement on Castle Hill, immediately facing the east walls of the castle, and five others to the north, west and south. By 17 May these batteries were ready, and

2805-599: A four-oared gig . In 1861 the Colonial Office provided a new wooden paddle survey vessel, Pioneer , which took the Universities' Mission to Central Africa (UMCA) led by Bishop Charles MacKenzie up the Shire river to found a new mission. Livingstone raised funds for a replacement river steamer, Lady Nyasa , specially designed to sail on Lake Nyasa. It was shipped out in sections, contrary to his request, with

2992-405: A garrison was continuously maintained at the castle. The medieval royal castle was transformed into a garrison fortress, but continued to see military and political action. The Marquis of Argyll was imprisoned here in 1661, when King Charles II settled old scores with his enemies following his return to the throne. Twenty years later, Argyll's son, the 9th Earl of Argyll , was also imprisoned in

3179-422: A gun was in 1384, and the "great bombard " Mons Meg was delivered to Edinburgh in 1457. The first recorded mention of an armoury for the manufacture of guns occurs in 1474, and by 1498 the master gunner Robert Borthwick was casting bronze guns at Edinburgh. By 1511 Edinburgh was the principal foundry in Scotland, supplanting Stirling Castle, with Scottish and European smiths working under Borthwick, who by 1512

3366-565: A historic building in Scotland, and special care was taken when installing 31 kW solar panels on the roof of the War Memorial, obscured by its parapet. The Old and New Towns of Edinburgh , a World Heritage Site inscribed by UNESCO in 1995, is described as "dominated by a medieval fortress". Edinburgh Castle is located at the top of the Royal Mile , at the west end of Edinburgh's Old Town . The volcanic Castle Rock offers

3553-422: A humble background, and manufactured events to make up for this supposed deficiency. Stanley's book suggests that this greeting was truly motivated by embarrassment, because he did not dare to embrace Livingstone. Despite Stanley's urgings, Livingstone was determined not to leave Africa until his mission was complete. His illness made him confused and he had judgment difficulties at the end of his life. He explored

3740-465: A major failing for Livingstone, and indicative of a pattern of putting his goals and career above the lives of those around him. Livingstone was now a celebrity, in great demand as a public speaker, and was elected to the Royal Society . He gained public backing for his plans, and raised finances for his next expedition by public subscription, as well as £5,000 from the government to investigate

3927-474: A means of opening my mouth with power among men. It is this power [with] which I hope to remedy an immense evil." His subsequent exploration of the central African watershed was the culmination of the classic period of European geographical discovery and colonial penetration of Africa . At the same time, his missionary travels, "disappearance", and eventual death in Africa‍—;‌and subsequent glorification as

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4114-495: A mission party including Mary Livingstone, and arrived in 1862. The Pioneer was delayed getting down to the coast to meet them, and there were further delays after it was found that the bishop had died. Mary Livingstone died on 27 April 1862 from malaria . Livingstone took Pioneer up the coast and investigated the Ruvuma River , and the physician John Kirk wrote "I can come to no other conclusion than that Dr Livingstone

4301-579: A naturally defended position, with sheer cliffs to north and south, and a steep ascent from the west. The only easy approach is from the town to the east, and the castle's defences are situated accordingly, with a series of gates protecting the route to the summit of the Castle Rock. In front of the castle is a long sloping forecourt known as the Esplanade. Originally the Spur, a 16th-century hornwork ,

4488-536: A posthumous national hero in 1874‍—‌led to the founding of several major central African Christian missionary initiatives carried forward in the era of the European " Scramble for Africa ". Livingstone was born on 19 March 1813 in the mill town of Blantyre , Scotland, in a tenement building for the workers of a cotton factory on the banks of the River Clyde under the bridge crossing into Bothwell . He

4675-474: A rebellion in the Highlands, climbed up the western side of the Castle Rock to urge Gordon to hold the castle against the new King. Gordon agreed, but during the ensuing siege he refused to fire upon the town, while the besiegers inflicted little damage on the castle. Despite Dundee's initial successes in the north, Gordon eventually surrendered on 14 June, due to dwindling supplies and having lost 70 men during

4862-438: A recognisable symbol of Edinburgh in particular and of Scotland as a whole. The castle stands upon the plug of an extinct volcano , which is estimated to have risen about 350 million years ago during the lower Carboniferous period. The Castle Rock is the remains of a volcanic pipe , which cut through the surrounding sedimentary rock before cooling to form very hard dolerite , a type of basalt . Subsequent glacial erosion

5049-479: A release from the fear of eternal damnation. Livingstone's reading of missionary Karl Gützlaff 's Appeal to the Churches of Britain and America on behalf of China enabled him to persuade his father that medical study could advance religious ends. Livingstone's experiences in H. Monteith's Blantyre cotton mill were also important from ages 10 to 26, first as a piecer and later as a spinner . This monotonous work

5236-541: A result, Livingstone became one of the most popular British heroes of the late 19th-century Victorian era . Livingstone's fame as an explorer and his obsession with learning the sources of the Nile was founded on the belief that if he could solve that age-old mystery, his fame would give him the influence to end the East African Arab–Swahili slave trade . "The Nile sources", he told a friend, "are valuable only as

5423-531: A sailing brig bound for the Cape of Good Hope , along with two other LMS missionaries: Ross, who had been ordained at the same service as him, and Ross's wife. During the long voyage he studied Dutch and Tswana language , and the captain gave him extensive tuition in navigation. At Rio de Janeiro , unlike the other two, he ventured ashore and was impressed by the cathedral and scenery, but not by drunkenness of British and American sailors so he gave them tracts in

5610-522: A seat of royal power principally through his administrative reforms (termed by some modern scholars the Davidian Revolution ). Between 1139 and 1150, David held an assembly of nobles and churchmen, a precursor to the parliament of Scotland , at the castle. Any buildings or defences would probably have been of timber, although two stone buildings are documented as having existed in the 12th century. Of these, St. Margaret's Chapel remains at

5797-551: A shortage of resources, although the battery's position obscuring the ancient David's Tower and enhancing the prominence of the palace block, has been seen as a significant decision. The battered palace block remained unused, particularly after James VI departed to become King of England in 1603. James had repairs carried out in 1584, and in 1615–1616 more extensive repairs were carried out in preparation for his return visit to Scotland. The mason William Wallace and master of works James Murray introduced an early Scottish example of

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5984-468: A side street off Princes Street. In 1771 the council acquired the land as part of the First New Town development. It began feuing ground on the south side of Princes Street (on the site of the current Balmoral Hotel and Waverley Market ) for the building of houses and workshops for a coach-builder and a furniture-maker. After a failed petition to the council the proprietors raised two actions in

6171-597: A siege, but eventually withdrew due to lack of supplies. At least by 1436-7, Sir William Crichton was Keeper or Governor of Edinburgh Castle, and soon after became Chancellor of Scotland . In an attempt to gain the regency of Scotland, Crichton sought to break the power of the Douglases , the principal noble family in the kingdom. The 16-year-old William Douglas, 6th Earl of Douglas , and his younger brother David were summoned to Edinburgh Castle in November 1440. After

6358-547: A variety of amusement park rides and the Christmas Market, which has food and gifts from all around the world. The most notable attraction is the 33 metre (108 feet) high Ferris wheel, often dubbed 'The Edinburgh Eye'. West Princes Street Gardens were originally the private property of "the Princes Street Proprietors" who overlooked them from their houses on the western half of the street. This

6545-471: A war zone, with Portuguese soldiers and their slaves fighting the Chikunda slave-hunters of Matakenya (Mariano), but both sides accepted the expedition as friends. The experts, stuck at Shupanga, could not make the intended progress, and there were disagreements. Artist Thomas Baines was dismissed from the expedition. Others on the expedition became the first to reach Lake Nyasa and they explored it in

6732-474: A window on a rope. The duke fled to France, then England, where he allied himself with King Edward IV . In 1482, Albany marched into Scotland with Richard, Duke of Gloucester (later King Richard III), and an English army. James III was trapped in the castle from 22 July to 29 September 1482 until he successfully negotiated a settlement. During the 15th century, the castle was increasingly used as an arsenal and armaments factory. The first known purchase of

6919-451: Is out of his mind and a most unsafe leader". When Pioneer returned to Shupanga in December 1862, they paid (in cloth) their "Mazaro men" who left and engaged replacements. On 10 January 1863 they set off, towing Lady Nyasa , and went up the Shire river past scenes of devastation as Mariano's Chikunda slave-hunts caused famine, and they frequently had to clear the paddle wheels of corpses left floating downstream. They reached Chibisa's and

7106-592: Is the Low Defence, while at the base of the rock is the ruined Wellhouse Tower, built in 1362 to guard St. Margaret's Well. This natural spring provided an important secondary source of water for the castle, the water being lifted up by a crane mounted on a platform known as the Crane Bastion. The areas to the north and west of the Argyle Tower are largely occupied by military buildings erected after

7293-647: The Church of Scotland for a local Congregational church , influenced by preachers like Ralph Wardlaw , who denied predestinarian limitations on salvation. Influenced by revivalistic teachings in the United States, Livingstone entirely accepted the proposition put by Charles Finney, Professor of Theology at Oberlin College, Ohio, that "the Holy Spirit is open to all who ask it". For Livingstone, this meant

7480-790: The Colonial Office steamer Pearl , which took them out on its way to Ceylon. They left on 10 March, at Freetown collected twelve Kru seafarers to man the river steamer, and reached the Zambezi on 14 May. The plan was for both ships to take them up the river to establish bases, but it turned out to be completely impassable to boats past the Cahora Bassa rapids, a series of cataracts and rapids that Livingstone had failed to explore on his earlier travels. Pearl offloaded their supplies on an island about 40 miles (64 km) upstream. From there, Ma Robert had to make repeated slow journeys, getting hauled across shoals. The riverbanks were

7667-613: The Court of Session to halt the building and to condemn the Corporation for having contravened their feuing terms by which they had presupposed open ground and a vista south of the street. After the Court found in favour of the council on the first point the decision was quickly appealed to the House of Lords and overturned, but when the Court again supported the council on the second point,

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7854-527: The Estates of Scotland , after convening to accept William formally as their new king, demanded that Duke of Gordon , Governor of the Castle, surrender the fortress. Gordon, who had been appointed by James VII as a fellow Catholic, refused. In March 1689, the castle was blockaded by 7,000 troops against a garrison of 160 men, further weakened by religious disputes. On 18 March, Viscount Dundee , intent on raising

8041-649: The Faculty (now Royal College) of Physicians and Surgeons of Glasgow on 16 November 1840 (in 1857 he was made an Honorary Fellow of the Faculty). On 20 November 1840 Livingstone was ordained a minister of the church, as was another missionary to South Africa, William Ross, in a service at the Albion Chapel , Finsbury. The ordination service was conducted by Cecil and J. J. Freeman. Though Livingstone had responded to Gützlaff's call for missionaries to China,

8228-507: The General Officer Commanding in Scotland, the first holder being Lieutenant-General Sir Archibald Cameron of Lochiel. The castle passed into the care of Historic Scotland when it was established in 1991, and was designated a Scheduled Ancient Monument in 1993. The buildings and structures of the castle are further protected by 24 separate listings , including 13 at category A , the highest level of protection for

8415-623: The Indiana University of Pennsylvania who scanned Livingstone's diary suggest that in putting his fragmentary notes about the massacre into the narrative of his journal, he left out his concerns about some of his followers, slaves owned by Banyan merchants who had been hired by John Kirk , acting consul at Zanzibar, and sent to get Livingstone to safety. These slaves had been liberated and added to his party, but had shown violent conduct against local people contrary to his instructions, and he feared they might have been involved in starting

8602-477: The London Missionary Society , he wrote up his journal, but unconventionally had his Missionary Travels published in 1857 by John Murray , making it a bestselling travelogue. The book included his field science and exceptionally sympathetic descriptions of African people. He proposed that missions and "legitimate commerce" by river into central Africa would end slave trading. Livingstone

8789-779: The Murchison Cataracts in April, then began dismantling Lady Nyasa and building a road to take its sections past the cataracts, while explorations continued. He brought the ships downriver in 1864 after the government ordered the recall of the expedition. The Zambezi Expedition was castigated as a failure in many newspapers of the time, and Livingstone experienced great difficulty in raising funds to further explore Africa. John Kirk, Charles Meller, and Richard Thornton, scientists appointed to work under Livingstone, contributed large collections of botanical, ecological, geological, and ethnographic material to scientific Institutions in

8976-706: The National Museums of Scotland . It was formerly known as the Scottish United Services Museum, and, prior to this, the Scottish Naval and Military Museum, when it was located in the Queen Anne Building . It covers Scotland's military history over the past 400 years, and includes a wide range of military artefacts, such as uniforms, medals and weapons. The exhibits also illustrate the history and causes behind

9163-645: The Nyangwe market on the banks of the Lualaba River , while he was watching next to the leading Arab trader Dugumbe who had given him assistance. The cause behind this attack is stated to be retaliation for actions of Manilla, the head slave who had sacked villages of Mohombo people at the instigation of the Wagenya chieftain Kimburu. The Arabs attacked the shoppers and Kimburu's people. Researchers from

9350-479: The Royal Geographical Society of London and was made a Fellow of the society, with which he had a strong association for the rest of his life. Livingstone completely lost contact with the outside world for six years and was ill for most of the last four years of his life. Only one of his 44 letter dispatches made it to Zanzibar . One surviving letter to Horace Waller was made available to

9537-620: The Royal Scots . The castle, in the care of Historic Environment Scotland , is Scotland's most (and the United Kingdom 's second most) visited paid tourist attraction, with over 2.2 million visitors in 2019 and over 70 percent of leisure visitors to Edinburgh visiting the castle. As the backdrop to the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo during the annual Edinburgh Festival , the castle has become

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9724-625: The Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Museum . The latter was opened in 1995 by the regiment's Colonel, Queen Elizabeth II . Also nearby, in the former Royal Scots drill hall , constructed in 1900, is the Regimental Museum of the Royal Scots (The Royal Regiment) . The military prison was built in 1842 as a detention block for the castle garrison and was extended in the 1880s. It was last used in 1923, when

9911-676: The Vaal River in January 1844, Livingstone rode out to meet them there, then sat in the Moffats' ox-cart talking with Robert for hours during the seventeen or eighteen days it took to get home to Kuruman. For the first time, he met their daughter Mary , who had been born and brought up in Africa. Lions often attacked the herds of the Mabotsa villagers, and on 16 February, Mebalwe and Livingstone joined them defending sheep. Livingstone got

10098-606: The Xhosa Wars over extending the Cape Colony . Missionary factions disagreed over this, and over his emphasis on missionary work among Griqua people of the colony, while others like Moffatt wanted more focus on new areas. There were also tensions between artisan missionaries engaged for lay expertise, and ordained missionaries. The ship took Livingstone and the Rosses on to Algoa Bay , from 19 May to 31 July they were on

10285-501: The relationship between religion and science . In 1832, he read Philosophy of a Future State , written by Thomas Dick , and he found the rationale that he needed to reconcile faith and science and, apart from the Bible, this book was perhaps his greatest philosophical influence. Other significant influences in his early life were Thomas Burke, a Blantyre evangelist , and David Hogg, his Sunday school teacher. At age fifteen, David left

10472-477: The slighting of the castle to prevent its re-occupation by the English. Four months later, his army secured victory at the Battle of Bannockburn . After Bruce's death in 1329, Edward III of England determined to renew the attempted subjugation of Scotland and supported the claim of Edward Balliol , son of the former King John Balliol , over that of Bruce's young son David II . Edward invaded in 1333, marking

10659-487: The "Last Journals", published in 1874, left out the context of Livingstone's earlier comments about Kirk and bad behaviour of the hired Banyan men, and omitted the villagers' earlier violent resistance to Arab slavers, so it portrayed the villagers as passive victims. The section on the massacre itself had only minor grammatical corrections. Further research into diary notes continues. The massacre horrified Livingstone, leaving him too shattered to continue his mission to find

10846-407: The "Maidens' Castle". The 16th-century English writer John Stow (c. 1525 – 1605), credited Ebraucus with building "the Castell of Maidens called Edenbrough" in 989 BC. The name "Maidens' Castle" ( Latin : Castra or Castellum Puellarum ) occurs frequently up until the 16th century. It appears in charters of David I (r. 1124–1153) and his successors in the Kingdom of Scotland , although

11033-414: The 17th century it was principally used as a military garrison . Its importance as a part of Scotland's national heritage was recognised increasingly from the early 19th century onwards, and various restoration programmes have been carried out over the past century and a half. Edinburgh Castle has played a prominent role in Scottish history , and has served variously as a royal residence , an arsenal ,

11220-402: The 1st and 2nd centuries AD, consistent with Ptolemy 's reference to "Alauna". Signs of occupation included some Roman material, including pottery, bronzes and brooches, implying a possible trading relationship between the Votadini and the Romans beginning with Agricola's northern campaign in AD 82, and continuing through to the establishment of the Antonine Wall around AD 140. The nature of

11407-473: The Bakgatla were proving indifferent to the Gospel. He abandoned Chonuane, his next mission, in 1847 because of drought and the proximity of the Boers and his desire "to move on to the regions beyond". At Kolobeng Mission Livingstone converted Chief Sechele in 1849 after two years of patient persuasion. Only a few months later Sechele lapsed. To improve his Tswana language skills and find locations to set up mission stations, Livingstone made journeys far to

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11594-477: The Bruce by Thomas Clapperton and William Wallace by Alexander Carrick were added in 1929, and the Latin motto Nemo me impune lacessit is inscribed above the gate. The dry ditch in front of the entrance was completed in its present form in 1742. Within the Gatehouse are offices, and to the north is the most recent addition to the castle; the ticket office, completed in 2008 to a design by Gareth Hoskins Architects . The road, built by James III in 1464 for

11781-441: The Castle Rock was first used for human habitation. There is no record of any Roman interest in the location during General Agricola 's invasion of northern Britain near the end of the 1st century AD. Ptolemy 's map of the 2nd century AD shows a settlement in the territory of the Votadini named "Alauna", meaning "rock place", making this possibly the earliest known name for the Castle Rock. This could, however, refer to another of

11968-441: The Castle Rock. The poem tells of the Gododdin King Mynyddog Mwynfawr , and his band of warriors, who, after a year of feasting in their fortress, set out to do battle with the Angles at "Catreath" (possibly Catterick ) in Yorkshire. Despite performing glorious deeds of valour and bravery, the poem relates that the Gododdin were massacred. The Irish annals record that in 638, after the events related in Y Gododdin , "Etin"

12155-543: The Castle Rock. Excavations at nearby Dunsapie Hill , Duddingston , Inveresk and Traprain Law had revealed relatively large settlements and it was supposed that these sites had been chosen in preference to the Castle Rock. However, the excavation in the 1990s pointed to the probable existence of an enclosed hillfort on the rock, although only the fringes of the site were excavated. House fragments revealed were similar to Iron Age dwellings previously found in Northumbria. The 1990s dig revealed clear signs of habitation from

12342-402: The Castle. Grange was a trusted lieutenant of the Regent, but after Moray's murder in January 1570 his allegiance to the King's cause began to waver. Intermittent civil war continued between the supporters of the two monarchs, and in April 1571 Dumbarton Castle fell to "the King's men". Under the influence of William Maitland of Lethington , Mary's secretary, Grange changed sides, occupying

12529-456: The City Architect Robert Morham including the building of a very picturesque gardeners cottage at the east end of the West Gardens. As part of a later agreement (c.1880) the council widened Princes Street (resulting in a far steeper embankment on that side). A series of statues were erected along the edge of the widened road. Modernization of the gardens is currently under discussion with the launch of The Quaich Project fundraising campaign from

12716-446: The Covenanter army at Dunbar in September. Edinburgh Castle was taken after a three-month siege, which caused further damage. The Governor of the Castle, Colonel Walter Dundas, surrendered to Cromwell despite having enough supplies to hold out, allegedly from a desire to change sides. After his Restoration in 1660, Charles II opted to maintain a full-time standing army based on Cromwell's New Model Army . From this time until 1923,

12903-411: The Edinburgh publisher William Nelson and carried out by Hippolyte Blanc , saw the Argyle Tower built over the Portcullis Gate and the Great Hall restored after years of use as a barracks. A new Gatehouse was built in 1888. During the 19th century, several schemes were put forward for rebuilding the whole castle as a Scottish baronial style château . Work began in 1858, but was soon abandoned, and only

13090-404: The English rather than the Regent Morton. Edinburgh Castle was handed over to George Douglas of Parkhead , the Regent's brother, and the garrison was allowed to go free. In contrast, Kirkcaldy of Grange, his brother James and two jewellers, James Mossman and James Cokke , who had been minting coins in Mary's name inside the castle, were hanged at the Cross in Edinburgh on 3 August. Much of

13277-432: The English to press their advantage, the Scots hastily constructed a town wall around Edinburgh and augmented the castle's defences. Robert Borthwick and a Frenchman, Antoine d'Arces , were involved in designing new artillery defences and fortifications in 1514, though it appears from lack of evidence that little of the planned work was carried out. Three years later, King James V (r.1513–1542), still only five years old,

13464-454: The Fittest, and during the city's Hogmanay celebrations. The Ross Development Trust proposed to rebuild the bandstand as a Ross Pavilion based on design by architects wHY following an international competition in 2017. The Ross Fountain is the focus of the western end of the gardens. Gifted by Edinburgh gunsmith Daniel Ross, it was originally installed in 1872 and restored in 2018 with

13651-499: The Indian Ocean, having mapped most of the course of the Zambezi river. For this, Livingstone became famous as the first European to cross south-central Africa at that latitude and was hailed as having "opened up" Africa, but there was already a long-established trans-regional network of trade routes. Portuguese traders had penetrated to the middle of the continent from both sides, in 1853–1854 two Arab traders crossed

13838-713: The King's forces and the Presbyterian Covenanters . The Covenanters, led by Alexander Leslie , captured Edinburgh Castle after a short siege, although it was restored to Charles after the Peace of Berwick in June the same year. The peace was short-lived, however, and the following year the Covenanters took the castle again, this time after a three-month siege, during which the garrison ran out of supplies. The Spur

14025-474: The King's party, with Grange confined to the castle. The truce expired on 1 January 1573, and Grange began bombarding the town. His supplies of powder and shot, however, were running low, and despite having 40 cannons available, there were only seven gunners in the garrison. The King's forces, now with the Earl of Morton in charge as regent, were making headway with plans for a siege. Trenches were dug to surround

14212-603: The Kololo in Barotseland , which Livingstone had promoted. That mission eventually suffered deaths from malaria of a missionary, his wife, a second missionary's wife, and three children. Livingstone had suffered over thirty attacks during his previous journey but had understated his suffering and overstated the quality of the land they would find, and the missionaries set out for the marshy region with wholly inadequate supplies of quinine. Biographer Tim Jeal considered this episode

14399-553: The LMS directors accepted Livingstone, and agreed to his request to continue studying with Cecil at Ongar until the end of the year, then have LMS support for medical studies in London. To gain necessary clinical training he continued his medical studies at the Charing Cross Hospital Medical School , with his courses covering medical practice, midwifery, and botany. He qualified as a licentiate of

14586-731: The LMS in October 1837, and in January was sent questions which he answered. He got no reply until invited to two interviews in August 1838. He was then accepted as a probationary candidate, and given initial training at Ongar, Essex , as the introduction to studies to become a minister within the Congregational Union serving under the LMS, rather than the more basic course for an artisan missionary. At Ongar, he and six other students had tuition in Greek, Latin, Hebrew and theology from

14773-760: The Lualaba and, failing to find connections to the Nile, returned to Lake Bangweulu and its swamps to explore possible rivers flowing out northwards. Livingstone is known as "Africa's greatest missionary," yet he is recorded as having converted only one African: Sechele , who was the chief of the Kwena people of Botswana (Kwena are one of the main Sotho-Tswana clans, found in South Africa, Lesotho, and Botswana in all three Sotho-Tswana language groupings). Sechele

14960-776: The Portuguese city of Luanda on the Atlantic in May 1854 after profound difficulties and the near-death of Livingstone from fever. Livingstone realized the route would be too difficult for future traders, so he retraced the journey back to Linyanti. Then with 114 Kololo men, loaned by the same chief, he set off east down the Zambezi. On this leg he became the first European to see the Mosi-oa-Tunya ("the smoke that thunders") waterfall, which he named Victoria Falls after Queen Victoria . Eventually he successfully reached Quelimane on

15147-486: The Reverend Richard Cecil, who in January 1839 assessed that, despite "heaviness of manner" and "rusticity", Livingstone had "sense and quiet vigour", good temper and substantial character "so I do not like the thought of him being rejected." A month later, he still thought Livingstone "hardly ready" to go on to theological studies at Cheshunt College , and "worthy but remote from brilliant". In June 1839

15334-487: The Ross Development Trust. The new design will improve accessibility and provide new pathways and connections across the city. In 1939 four huge air-raid shelters were created within this northern embankment. The distinctive shelters now on the upper walkway date from 1950 and were designed by Alexander Garden Forgie. As with most structures in the gardens they are listed buildings. The Ross Bandstand in

15521-534: The Theory and Practice of Art and is by William Brodie originally for the garden of Rockville, the home of his maverick architect son-in-law Sir James Gowans . It was moved here in the 1960s following the demolition of Rockville. The Swedish runestone U 1173 was located beneath the Castle walls ( grid reference NT25267352 ), however due to security concerns it was removed from its location in November 2017 and

15708-525: The United Kingdom. In January 1866, Livingstone returned to Africa, this time to Zanzibar , and from there he set out to seek the source of the Nile . Richard Francis Burton , John Hanning Speke , and Samuel Baker had identified either Lake Albert or Lake Victoria as the source (which was partially correct, as the Nile "bubbles from the ground high in the mountains of Burundi halfway between Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria " ), but there

15895-564: The adjacent churches of St. John's and St. Cuthbert's , near Lothian Road in the west. In 1846 the railway was built in the valley to connect the Edinburgh-Glasgow line at Haymarket with the new northern terminus of the North British line from Berwick-upon-Tweed at Waverley Station . The Gardens are the best known parks in Edinburgh, having the highest awareness and visitor figures for both residents and visitors to

16082-507: The agreement of the mill management, by working at his old job from Easter to October, outwith term time. He joined Anderson's University , Glasgow, in 1836, studying medicine and chemistry, as well as attending theology lectures by the anti-slavery campaigner Richard Wardlaw at the Congregational Church College, where he may also have studied Greek . To enter medical school, he needed some knowledge of Latin, and

16269-651: The blockade. The Jacobites themselves had no heavy guns with which to respond, and by November they had marched into England, leaving Edinburgh to the castle garrison. Over the next century, the castle vaults were used to hold prisoners of war during several conflicts, including the Seven Years' War (1756–1763), the American War of Independence (1775–1783) and the Napoleonic Wars (1803–1815). During this time, several new buildings were erected within

16456-544: The bombardment began. Over the next 12 days, the gunners dispatched around 3,000 shots at the castle. On 22 May, the south wall of David's Tower collapsed, and the next day the Constable's Tower also fell. The debris blocked the castle entrance, as well as the Fore Well, although this had already run dry. On 26 May, the English attacked and captured the Spur, the outer fortification of the castle, which had been isolated by

16643-539: The castle and replaced by canons , considered "fitter to live among soldiers". However, this story was considered "apocryphal" by the 19th-century antiquarian Daniel Wilson and has been ignored by historians since. The name may have been derived from a "Cult of the Nine Maidens" type of legend. Arthurian legends suggest that the site once held a shrine to Morgain la Fee , one of nine sisters. Later, St Monenna, said to be one of nine companions, reputedly invested

16830-494: The castle became a major garrison in the early 18th century. Adjacent to Mills Mount are the 18th-century cart sheds, now tea rooms. The Governor's House to the south was built in 1742 as accommodation for the Governor, Storekeeper, and Master Gunner, and was used until the post of Governor became vacant in the later 19th century; it was then used by nurses of the castle hospital. Today, it functions as an officers' mess , and as

17017-477: The castle for religious Nonconformism in the reign of King James VII . He escaped by disguising himself as his sister's footman , but was recaptured and returned to the castle after his failed rebellion to oust James from the throne in 1685. James VII was deposed and exiled by the Glorious Revolution of 1688, which installed William of Orange as King of England. Not long after, in early 1689,

17204-482: The castle in 1371. It was completed by his successor, Robert II , in the 1370s. The tower stood on the site of the present Half Moon Battery connected by a section of curtain wall to the smaller Constable's Tower, a round tower built between 1375 and 1379 where the Portcullis Gate now stands. In the early 15th century, another English invasion, this time under Henry IV , reached Edinburgh Castle and began

17391-498: The castle to England. A large garrison numbering 325 men was installed in 1300. Edward also brought to Scotland his master builders of the Welsh castles, including Thomas de Houghton and Master Walter of Hereford, both of whom travelled from Wales to Edinburgh. After the death of Edward I in 1307, however, England's control over Scotland weakened. On 14 March 1314, a surprise night attack by Thomas Randolph, 1st Earl of Moray recaptured

17578-428: The castle was subsequently rebuilt by Regent Morton, including the Spur, the new Half Moon Battery and the Portcullis Gate. Some of these works were supervised by William MacDowall , the master of work who fifteen years earlier had repaired David's Tower. The Half Moon Battery, while impressive in size, is considered by historians to have been an ineffective and outdated artillery fortification. This may have been due to

17765-588: The castle's role as a royal home subsequently declined. James IV did, however, construct the Great Hall, which was completed in the early 16th century, and the castle featured in his tournaments of the Wild Knight and the Black Lady . His daughter Margaret Stewart was lodged in the castle with her servant Ellen More . James IV was killed in battle at Flodden Field , on 9 September 1513. Expecting

17952-468: The castle, and St Margaret's Well was poisoned. By February, all Queen Mary's other supporters had surrendered to the Regent, but Grange resolved to resist despite water shortages within the castle. The garrison continued to bombard the town, killing a number of citizens. They also made sorties to set fires, burning 100 houses in the town and then firing on anyone attempting to put out the flames. In April,

18139-491: The castle, including powder magazines, stores, the Governor's House (1742), and the New Barracks (1796–1799). A mass prison break in 1811, in which 49 prisoners of war escaped via a hole in the south wall, persuaded the authorities that the castle vaults were no longer suitable as a prison. This use ceased in 1814 and the castle began gradually to assume a different role as a national monument. In 1818, Sir Walter Scott

18326-460: The castle. John Barbour 's narrative poem The Brus relates how a party of thirty hand-picked men was guided by one William Francis, a member of the garrison who knew of a route along the north face of the Castle Rock and a place where the wall might be scaled. Making the difficult ascent, Randolph's men scaled the wall, surprised the garrison and took control. Robert the Bruce immediately ordered

18513-449: The castle. However, Fordun's chronicle was not written until the later 14th century, and the near-contemporary account of the life of St Margaret by Bishop Turgot makes no mention of a castle. During the reigns of Malcolm III and his sons, Edinburgh Castle became one of the most significant royal centres in Scotland. Malcolm's son King Edgar died here in 1107. Malcolm's youngest son, King David I (r.1124–1153), developed Edinburgh as

18700-571: The castle. The King's party appealed to Elizabeth I of England for assistance, as they lacked the artillery and money required to reduce the castle, and feared that Grange would receive aid from France and the Duke of Alba in the Spanish Netherlands . Elizabeth sent ambassadors to negotiate, and in July 1572 a truce was agreed and the blockade lifted. The town was effectively surrendered to

18887-723: The centre of the West Gardens is named after William Henry Ross, Chairman of the Distillers Company Ltd., who gifted the first bandstand on the site in 1877. The present building and terraces date from 1935. The Princes Street proprietors contributed £500 as a goodwill gesture to the cost of the bandstand. Various concerts and other events are held at the Ross Bandstand including the Festival Fireworks Concert, Men's Health Survival of

19074-644: The city. In 1846, the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway company constructed a railway line in a cutting along the southern edge of the Gardens to join its Haymarket terminus to a new General Station adjoining the North British Railway Company's North Bridge terminus (both stations later renamed Waverley Station ). This involved constructing the Haymarket Tunnel (comprising separate north and south tunnels), 910 metres long, between

19261-433: The collapse. The following day Grange emerged from the castle by a ladder after calling for a ceasefire to allow negotiations for a surrender to take place. When it was made clear that he would not be allowed to go free even if he ended the siege, Grange resolved to continue the resistance, but the garrison threatened to mutiny. He therefore arranged for Drury and his men to enter the castle on 28 May, preferring to surrender to

19448-575: The continent from Zanzibar to Benguela , and around 1800 two native traders crossed from Angola to Mozambique. Livingstone advocated the establishment of trade and religious missions in central Africa, but abolition of the African slave trade , as carried out by the Portuguese of Tete and the Arab Swahili of Kilwa , became his primary goal. His motto—now inscribed on his statue at Victoria Falls—was " Christianity, Commerce and Civilization ",

19635-521: The course of many rivers, especially the upper Zambezi, and his observations enabled large regions to be mapped which previously had been blank. Even so, the farthest north he reached was the north end of Lake Tanganyika—still south of the Equator —and he did not penetrate the rainforest of the River Congo any farther downstream than Ntangwe near Misisi . Livingstone was awarded the gold medal of

19822-584: The court of Henry II of France , and was said to have the arms of France carved on it. James V's widow, Mary of Guise , acted as regent from 1554 until her death at the castle in 1560. The following year, the Catholic Mary, Queen of Scots, returned from France to begin her reign, which was marred by crises and quarrels among the powerful Protestant Scottish nobility. In 1565, the Queen made an unpopular marriage with Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley , and

20009-425: The direction of Lake Tanganyika, with his health declining. He sent a message to Zanzibar requesting that supplies be sent to Ujiji and he then headed west, forced by ill health to travel with slave traders. He arrived at Lake Mweru on 8 November 1867 and continued on, travelling south to become the first European to see Lake Bangweulu . Upon finding the Lualaba River , Livingstone theorised that it could have been

20196-542: The directors were "restricted in their power of aiding plans connected only remotely with the spread of the Gospel". This brusque rejection for new mission stations north of the Zambezi and his wider object of opening the interior for trade via the Zambezi, was not enough to make him resign from the LMS at once. When Roderick Murchison , president of the Royal Geographical Society, put him in touch with

20383-565: The double-pile block. The principal external features were the three, three-storey oriel windows on the east façade, facing the town and emphasising that this was a palace rather than just a place of defence. During his visit in 1617, James held court in the refurbished palace block, but still preferred to sleep at Holyrood. In 1621, King James granted Sir William Alexander the land in North America between New England and Newfoundland , as Nova Scotia ("New Scotland"). To promote

20570-735: The early 16th-century Great Hall. The castle is the site of the Scottish National War Memorial and the National War Museum . The British Army is still responsible for some parts of the castle, although its presence is now largely ceremonial and administrative. The castle is the regimental headquarters of the Royal Regiment of Scotland and the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards and houses their regimental museums , along with that of

20757-423: The end of the 12th century, Edinburgh Castle was established as the main repository of Scotland's official state papers. A century later, in 1286, on the death of King Alexander III , the throne of Scotland became vacant. Edward I of England was appointed to adjudicate the competing claims for the Scottish crown, but used the opportunity to attempt to establish himself as the feudal overlord of Scotland. During

20944-628: The explorer David Livingstone , the publisher and Lord Provost Adam Black and the essayist Professor John Wilson , who wrote under the pseudonym Christopher North . There is also a small commemorative stone honouring the volunteers from the Lothians and Fife who fought in the Spanish Civil War . Every year, in the weeks leading up to the end of the year, the East Gardens are transformed into 'Edinburgh's Christmas'. This includes

21131-523: The fact that the 9th Earl of Argyll had been held here prior to his execution in 1685. Described as "restoration in an extreme form", the rebuilding of the Argyle Tower was the first in a series of works funded by the publisher William Nelson. Just inside the gate is the Argyle Battery overlooking Princes Street , with Mills Mount Battery, the location of the One O'Clock Gun, to the west. Below these

21318-470: The first reigning monarch to visit the castle since Charles II in 1651. In 1829, the cannon Mons Meg was returned from the Tower of London, where it had been taken as part of the process of disarming Scotland after "the '45", and the palace began to be opened up to visitors during the 1830s. St Margaret's Chapel was "rediscovered" in 1845, having been used as a store for many years. Works in the 1880s, funded by

21505-490: The following year, in a small room of the Palace at Edinburgh Castle, she gave birth to their son James , who would later be King of both Scotland and England. Mary's reign was, however, brought to an abrupt end. Three months after the murder of Darnley at Kirk o' Field in 1567, she married James Hepburn, 4th Earl of Bothwell , one of the chief murder suspects. A large proportion of the nobility rebelled, resulting ultimately in

21692-593: The foreign secretary, Livingstone said nothing to the LMS directors, even when his leadership of a government expedition to the Zambezi seemed increasingly likely to be funded by the exchequer. "I am not yet fairly on with the Government," he told a friend, "but am nearly quite off with the Society (LMS)." Livingstone resigned from the London Missionary Society in 1857, and in May of that year he

21879-411: The gardens be opened during Christmas and New Year "with the object of keeping parties out of the dram shops (i.e. illegal drinking premises)" led eventually to them being opened to the general public on Christmas Day, New Year's Day and one other day in the year. In 1876, despite much opposition from residents, the town council reacquired the ground for use as a public park. The new park was laid out by

22066-486: The garrison moved to the city's Redford Barracks. West of the Governor's House, a store for munitions was built in 1747–48 and later extended to form a courtyard, in which the main gunpowder magazine also stood. In 1897 the area was remodelled as a military hospital, formerly housed in the Great Hall. The building to the south of this courtyard is now the National War Museum of Scotland, which forms part of

22253-513: The garrison who resented Regent Arran came to Norham Castle and offered to let the English in. Refortification in 1548 included an earthen angle-bastion, known as the Spur, of the type known as trace italienne , one of the earliest examples in Britain. Brunstane Castle the home of the traitor Alexander Crichton was demolished to provide building materials. The Spur may have been designed by Migliorino Ubaldini , an Italian engineer from

22440-473: The gates from closing. A larger force hidden nearby rushed to join them and the castle was retaken. The 100 English men of the garrison were all killed. The 1357 Treaty of Berwick brought the Wars of Independence to a close. David II resumed his rule and set about rebuilding Edinburgh Castle which became his principal seat of government. David's Tower was begun around 1367, and was incomplete when David died at

22627-744: The help of the Ross Development Trust. Along the south side of Princes Street are statues of the poet Allan Ramsay , the church reformer Thomas Guthrie , and the obstetric pioneer James Young Simpson . Other monuments are the Royal Scots Greys Memorial, the Scottish American War Memorial , the Norwegian Brigade War Memorial, and Wojtek the Bear . The statuary group on the lower path represents The Genius of Architecture crowning

22814-524: The high part of the Nile ; but realised that it in fact flowed into the River Congo at Upper Congo Lake . The year 1869 began with Livingstone finding himself extremely ill while in the jungle. He was saved by Arab traders who gave him medicines and carried him to an Arab outpost. In March 1869, Livingstone suffered from pneumonia and arrived in Ujiji to find his supplies stolen. He was coming down with cholera and had tropical ulcers on his feet, so he

23001-532: The hospital building was eventually remodelled in 1897. Following the death of Prince Albert in 1861, the architect David Bryce put forward a proposal for a 50-metre (160 ft) keep as a memorial, but Queen Victoria objected and the scheme was not pursued. In 1905, responsibility for the castle was transferred from the War Office to the Office of Works , although the garrison remained until 1923, when

23188-523: The imprisonment and forced abdication of Mary at Lochleven Castle . She escaped and fled to England , but some of the nobility remained faithful to her cause. Edinburgh Castle was initially handed by its captain, James Balfour , to the Regent Moray , who had forced Mary's abdication and now held power in the name of the infant King James VI. Shortly after the Battle of Langside , in May 1568, Moray appointed Sir William Kirkcaldy of Grange Keeper of

23375-559: The length of Princes Street "shall be kept and preserved in perpetuity as pleasure-grounds to be dressed up at the expense of the town council as soon as may be." Along the south side of Princes Street are many statues and monuments. In the East Gardens most prominent is the Scott Monument , a Neo-Gothic spire built in 1844 to honour Sir Walter Scott . Within East Princes Street Gardens there are statues of

23562-655: The long trek by ox-cart to the Kuruman Mission . The Moffats had not yet returned from Britain, and he immersed himself in Tswana life. From September to late December he trekked 750 miles (1,210 km) with the artisan missionary Roger Edwards, who had been at Kuruman since 1830 and had been told by Moffat to investigate potential for a new station. They visited and discussed the area called Mabotsa, Botswana, near Zeerust , North West Province, South Africa. In 1842 Livingstone went on two treks with African companions,

23749-477: The longest continuously occupied site in Scotland. However, the extent of the finds was not particularly significant and insufficient to draw any certain conclusions about the precise nature or scale of this earliest known phase of occupation. The archaeological evidence is more reliable concerning the Iron Age. Traditionally, it had been supposed that the tribes of central Scotland had made little or no use of

23936-533: The looming First Opium War made the LMS directors cautious about sending recruits there. When he asked to extend his probationary training at Ongar, Cecil told him of their wish that he should be employed in the West Indies "in preference to South Africa". On 2 July 1839 he wrote to the LMS directors that the West Indies was by then well served by doctors, and he had always been attracted to other parts of

24123-436: The many wars in which Scottish soldiers have been involved. Beside the museum is Butts Battery, named after the archery butts (targets) formerly placed here. Below it are the Western Defences, where a postern , named the West Sally Port, gives access to the western slope of the rock. David Livingstone David Livingstone FRGS FRS ( / ˈ l ɪ v ɪ ŋ s t ə n / ; 19 March 1813 – 1 May 1873)

24310-452: The massacre. His diary noted "Dugumbe's men murdering Kimburu and another for slaves" and implied that the slave Manilla played a leading part, but looking back at the events, he says Dugumbé's people bore responsibility, and started it to make an example of Manilla. In the diary he described his sending his men with protection of a flag to assist Manilla's brother. In his journal version it was to assist villagers. The version edited by Waller in

24497-400: The matter was submitted to judicial arbitration. This resulted in a judgement that the houses could be completed which later allowed the North British Hotel (Balmoral Hotel) to be built on the site, that the adjacent furniture-maker's premises must not rise above the level of Princes Street (which is the reason the roof of Waverley Market is at street level) and that the ground westwards for half

24684-407: The missionary Robert Moffat , who was then in England with his family to publicise the work of his LMS mission at Kuruman in South Africa. Livingstone questioned him repeatedly about Africa, and as Moffat later recalled; "By and by he asked me whether I thought he would do for Africa. I said I believed he would, if he would not go to an old station, but would advance to unoccupied ground, specifying

24871-417: The most eminent and principal place of Scotland." James' successor, King Charles I , visited Edinburgh Castle only once, hosting a feast in the Great Hall and staying the night before his Scottish coronation in 1633. This was the last occasion that a reigning monarch resided in the castle. In 1639, in response to Charles' attempts to impose Episcopacy on the Scottish Church , civil war broke out between

25058-409: The negotiations, Edward stayed briefly at Edinburgh Castle and may have received homage there from the Scottish nobles. In March 1296, Edward I invaded Scotland, unleashing the First War of Scottish Independence . Edinburgh Castle soon came under English control, surrendering after a three-day-long bombardment. Following the siege, Edward had many Scottish legal records and royal treasures moved from

25245-454: The north and west sides of the castle were built. These were designed by military engineer Captain John Romer , and built by the architect William Adam . They include the Argyle Battery, Mills Mount Battery, the Low Defences and the Western Defences. The last military action at the castle took place during the second Jacobite rising of 1745. The Jacobite army, under Charles Edward Stuart ("Bonnie Prince Charlie"), captured Edinburgh without

25432-419: The north of Kolobeng with William Cotton Oswell . In 1849 they crossed the Kalahari Desert and reached Lake Ngami . In 1850, he was recognised by the Royal Geographical Society which presented him a chronometer watch for 'his journey to the great lake of Ngami'. He heard of a river which could potentially become a "Highway" to the coast, and in August 1851 they reached the Zambezi which he hoped would be

25619-526: The nucleus of the later palace block, and a Great Hall was in existence by 1458. In 1464, access to the castle was improved when the current approach road up the north-east side of the rock was created to allow easier movement of the royal artillery train in and out of the area now known as the Upper Ward. In 1479, Alexander Stewart, Duke of Albany , was imprisoned in David's Tower for plotting against his brother, King James III (r.1460–1488). He escaped by getting his guards drunk, and then lowering himself from

25806-408: The office of the Governor since the restoration of the post in 1936. South of the Governor's House is the New Barracks, completed in 1799 to house 600 soldiers, and replacing the outdated accommodation in the Great Hall. They now house the Regimental Headquarters of the Royal Regiment of Scotland and the Regimental Headquarters of the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards (Carabiniers and Greys) as well as

25993-427: The only other white person for hundreds of miles, along with Stanley's clumsy attempt at appearing dignified in the bush of Africa by making a formal greeting one might expect to hear in the confines of an upper-class London club. However, readers of the Herald immediately saw through Stanley's pretensions. As noted by his biographer Tim Jeal, Stanley struggled his whole life with a self-perceived weakness of being from

26180-420: The potential for British trade via the Zambezi. In December 1857 the Foreign Office proposed a huge expedition. Livingstone had envisaged another solo journey with African helpers, in January 1858 he agreed to lead a second Zambezi expedition with six specialist officers, hurriedly recruited in the UK. The prefabricated iron river steamer Ma Robert was quickly built in portable sections, and loaded onto

26367-544: The principals were mission members Paul and Mebalwe, a deacon . In June 1843, Edwards got LMS approval to set up a mission station with his wife at Mabotsa. Livingstone moved there by agreement, and joined them in the physical work of building facilities. He wrote to tell LMS secretary Arthur Tidman, saying he would be delighted to call Mabotsa "the centre of the sphere of my labours", but would try to hold himself "in readiness to go anywhere, provided it be forward". The Moffats, accompanied by two new missionary families, reached

26554-559: The public in 2010 by its owner Peter Beard. It reads: "I am terribly knocked up but this is for your own eye only... Doubtful if I live to see you again..." Henry Morton Stanley had been sent to find him by the New York Herald newspaper in 1869. He found Livingstone in the town of Ujiji on the shores of Lake Tanganyika on 10 November 1871, apparently greeting him with the now famous words "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?" Livingstone responded, "Yes", and then, "I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you." These famous words may have been

26741-422: The reason for it is not known. William Camden 's survey of Britain, Britannia (1607), records that "the Britans called [it] Castle Myned Agned [winged rock], the Scots, the Maidens Castle and the Virgins Castle, of certaine young maidens of the Picts roiall bloud who were kept there in old time". According to the 17th-century antiquarian Father Richard Hay, the "maidens" were a group of nuns, who were ejected from

26928-464: The ridge slopes more gently. The defensive advantage of such a site is self-evident, but the geology of the rock also presents difficulties, since basalt is extremely impermeable. Providing water to the Upper Ward of the castle was problematic, and despite the sinking of a 34-metre (112 ft) deep well, the water supply often ran out during drought or siege, including during the Lang Siege in 1573. Archaeological investigation has yet to establish when

27115-496: The rock; that is around the area where St. Margaret's Chapel stands. This has been suggested that the chapel is the last remnant of a square, stone keep, which would have formed the bulk of the 12th-century fortification. The structure may have been similar to the keep of Carlisle Castle , which David I began after 1135. David's successor King Malcolm IV (r.1153–1165) reportedly stayed at Edinburgh more than at any other location. But in 1174, King William "the Lion" (r.1165–1214)

27302-408: The round Constable's Tower, which was destroyed in the siege. In 1584 the upper parts of the Gatehouse were completed by William Schaw , and these were further modified in 1750. In 1886–1887 this plain building was replaced with a Scots Baronial tower, designed by the architect Hippolyte Blanc , although the original Portcullis Gate remains below. The new structure was named the Argyle Tower, from

27489-422: The settlement and plantation of the new territory, the Baronetage of Nova Scotia was created in 1624. Under Scots law , baronets had to "take sasine " by symbolically receiving the earth and stone of the land of which they were baronet. To make this possible, since Nova Scotia was so distant, the King declared that sasine could be taken either in the new province or alternatively "at the castle of Edinburgh as

27676-449: The settlement in this period is inconclusive, but Driscoll and Yeoman suggest it may have been a broch , similar to the one at Edin's Hall near Duns in the Scottish Borders . The castle does not re-appear in contemporary historical records from the time of Ptolemy until around AD 600. Then, in the epic Welsh poem Y Gododdin there is a reference to Din Eidyn, "the stronghold of Eidyn ". This has been generally assumed to refer to

27863-425: The so-called "Black Dinner" had taken place in David's Tower, both boys were summarily executed on trumped-up charges in the presence of the 10-year-old King James II (r.1437–1460). Douglas' supporters subsequently besieged the castle, inflicting damage. Construction continued throughout this period, with the area now known as Crown Square being laid out over vaults in the 1430s. Royal apartments were built, forming

28050-523: The source of the Nile. Following the end of the wet season, he travelled 240 miles (390 km) from Nyangwe back to Ujiji, an Arab settlement on the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika—violently ill most of the way—arriving on 23 October 1871. Livingstone was wrong about the Nile, but he identified numerous geographical features for Western science, such as Lake Ngami , Lake Malawi , and Lake Bangweulu , in addition to Victoria Falls mentioned above. He filled in details of Lake Tanganyika , Lake Mweru , and

28237-401: The start of the Second War of Scottish Independence , and the English forces reoccupied and refortified Edinburgh Castle in 1335, holding it until 1341. This time, the Scottish assault was led by William Douglas, Lord of Liddesdale . Douglas's party disguised themselves as merchants from Leith bringing supplies to the garrison. Driving a cart into the entrance, they halted it there to prevent

28424-535: The status of the settlement during this period, although the midden deposits show no clear break since Roman times. The first documentary reference to a castle at Edinburgh is John of Fordun 's account of the death of King Malcolm III (1031–1093). Fordun describes his widow, the future Saint Margaret , as residing at the "Castle of Maidens" when she is brought news of his death in November 1093. Fordun's account goes on to relate how Margaret died of grief within days, and how Malcolm's brother Donald Bane laid siege to

28611-406: The summit of the rock. The second was a church, dedicated to St. Mary , which stood on the site of the Scottish National War Memorial. Given that the southern part of the Upper Ward (where Crown Square is now sited) was not suited to be built upon until the construction of the vaults in the 15th century, it seems probable that any earlier buildings would have been located towards the northern part of

28798-400: The three-month siege. The castle was almost taken in the first Jacobite rising in support of James Stuart , the "Old Pretender", in 1715. On 8 September, just two days after the rising began, a party of around 100 Jacobite Highlanders, led by Lord Drummond , attempted to scale the walls with the assistance of members of the garrison. However, the rope ladder lowered by the castle sentries

28985-421: The town and castle of Edinburgh for Queen Mary, and against the new regent, the Earl of Lennox . The stand-off which followed was not resolved until two years later, and became known as the "Lang Siege", from the Scots word for "long". Hostilities began in May, with a month-long siege of the town, and a second short siege in October. Blockades and skirmishing continued meanwhile, and Grange continued to refortify

29172-416: The transport of cannon, leads upward and around to the north of the Half Moon Battery and the Forewall Battery, to the Portcullis Gate. In 1990, an alternative access was opened by digging a tunnel from the north of the esplanade to the north-west part of the castle, separating visitor traffic from service traffic. The Portcullis Gate was begun by the Regent Morton after the Lang Siege of 1571–73 to replace

29359-451: The tribe's hill forts in the area. The Orygynale Cronykil of Andrew of Wyntoun (c. 1350 – c. 1423), an early source for Scottish history , names "Ebrawce" ( Ebraucus ), a legendary King of the Britons , as having "byggyd [built] Edynburgh". According to the earlier chronicler, Geoffrey of Monmouth (c. 1100 – c. 1155), Ebraucus had fifty children by his twenty wives, and was the founder of "Kaerebrauc" ( York ), "Alclud" ( Dumbarton ) and

29546-412: The troops moved to Redford Barracks in south-west Edinburgh. The castle was again used as a prison during the First World War, when " Red Clydesider " David Kirkwood was confined in the military prison block, and during the Second World War, when downed German Luftwaffe pilots were captured. The position of Governor of Edinburgh Castle , vacant since 1876, was revived in 1935 as an honorary title for

29733-563: The vast plain to the north, where I had sometimes seen, in the morning sun, the smoke of a thousand villages, where no missionary had ever been." He was excited by Moffat's vision of expanding missionary work to the north of Bechuanaland , and by the hotly debated topic of Christianity and commerce. The LMS missionary John Philip , after discussion with the abolitionist Fowell Buxton , published Researches in South Africa in 1828, proposing that Christianity would always bring "civilisation" including free trade and free labour . This argument

29920-405: The western end of the gardens and Haymarket Station . A shorter tunnel (again comprising two separate tunnels) was also dug through The Mound which separated the East and West Gardens. East Princes Street Gardens originated after a dispute between Edinburgh Corporation (town council) and the early New Town proprietors, among whom was the philosopher David Hume who resided in St. David Street,

30107-402: The world rather than a settled pastorate . With LMS agreement, he continued to get theological tuition from Cecil until the end of the year, then resumed medical studies. On beginning his clinical training in January 1840, he returned to Mrs. Sewell's missionary boarding house in Aldersgate , where he had stayed previously when in London. Others staying there were visited occasionally by

30294-579: Was a Scottish physician, Congregationalist , pioneer Christian missionary with the London Missionary Society , and an explorer in Africa. Livingstone was married to Mary Moffat Livingstone , from the prominent 18th-century Moffat missionary family. Livingstone came to have a mythic status that operated on a number of interconnected levels: Protestant missionary martyr, working-class " rags-to-riches " inspirational story, scientific investigator and explorer, imperial reformer, anti-slavery crusader, and advocate of British commercial and colonial expansion. As

30481-420: Was added to and "finalised" in May 2007 following the termination of the Royal Scots in 2006. This added additional Battle Honours gained since the 1950s. A new monument, in the form of a baby elephant by sculptor Andy Scott, was added to the gardens on 2 February 2019. Located by The Genius of Architecture, this is a permanent reminder of the 250 babies and their families affected by the Mortonhall scandal, which

30668-399: Was again forced to rely on slave traders to get him as far as Bambara—where he was caught by the wet season. With no supplies, Livingstone had to eat his meals in a roped-off enclosure for the entertainment of the locals in return for food. On 15 July 1871, Livingstone recorded in his field diary his immediate impressions as he witnessed around 400 Africans being massacred by Arab slavers at

30855-599: Was appointed "master melter of the king's guns". Their output included guns for the Scottish flagship, the " Great Michael ", and the "Seven Sisters", a set of cannons captured by the English at Flodden in 1513. Sir Thomas Howard, England's Lord Admiral, admired their graceful shape and brilliant finish, declaring them the most beautiful [cannon] for their size and length that he had ever seen. From 1510 Dutch craftsmen were also producing hand culverins , an early firearm . After Flodden, Borthwick continued his work, producing an unknown number of guns, but none have survived. He

31042-402: Was appointed as her majesty's consul with a roving commission, extending through Mozambique to the areas west of it. In February 1858 his area of jurisdiction was stipulated to be "the Eastern Coast of Africa and the independent districts in the interior". While he negotiated with the government for his new position as consul, the LMS thought that he would return to Africa with their mission to

31229-472: Was badly damaged and was demolished in the 1640s. The Royalist commander James Graham, 1st Marquis of Montrose , was imprisoned here after his capture in 1650. In May 1650, the Covenanters signed the Treaty of Breda , allying themselves with the exiled Charles II against the English Parliamentarians , who had executed his father the previous year. In response to the Scots proclaiming Charles King, Oliver Cromwell launched an invasion of Scotland, defeating

31416-515: Was besieged by the Angles under Oswald of Northumbria , and the Gododdin were defeated. The territory around Edinburgh then became part of the Kingdom of Northumbria , which was itself absorbed by England in the 10th century. Lothian became part of Scotland, during the reign of Indulf (r.954–962). The archaeological evidence for the period in question is based entirely on the analysis of middens (domestic refuse heaps), with no evidence of structures. Few conclusions can therefore be derived about

31603-429: Was born in 1812. His father died when Sechele was 10, and two of his uncles divided the tribe, which forced Sechele to leave his home for nine years. When Sechele returned, he took over one of his uncle's tribes; at that point, he met Livingstone. Livingstone immediately became interested in Sechele, and especially his ability to read. Being a quick learner, Sechele learned the alphabet in two days and soon called English

31790-431: Was brought to the castle for safety. Upon his death 25 years later, the crown passed to his week-old daughter, Mary, Queen of Scots . English invasions followed, as King Henry VIII attempted to force a dynastic marriage on Scotland. When the English burnt Edinburgh in May 1544 the gunner Andrew Mansioun firing from the castle destroyed an English cannon placed to bombard the forework. In 1547 disaffected members of

31977-477: Was captured by the English at the Battle of Alnwick . He was forced to sign the Treaty of Falaise to secure his release, in return for surrendering Edinburgh Castle, along with the castles of Berwick , Roxburgh and Stirling , to the English King, Henry II . The castle was occupied by the English for twelve years, until 1186, when it was returned to William as the dowry of his English bride, Ermengarde de Beaumont , who had been chosen for him by King Henry. By

32164-437: Was encouraged by the response in Britain to his discoveries and support for future expeditions. He proposed to do more exploration, primarily to find routes for commercial trade which he believed would displace slave trade routes, more so than for solely missionary work. The London Missionary Society (LMS) on learning of his plans sent a letter which Livingstone received at Quelimane, congratulating him on his journey but said that

32351-407: Was given permission to search the castle for the Crown of Scotland , believed lost after the union of Scotland and England in 1707. Breaking into a sealed room, now known as the Crown Room, and unlocking a chest within, he rediscovered the Honours of Scotland , which were then put on public display with an entry charge of one shilling . In 1822, King George IV made a visit to Edinburgh , becoming

32538-451: Was habitually polluted from sewage draining downhill from the Old Town . The gardens run along the south side of Princes Street and are divided by The Mound , on which the National Gallery of Scotland and the Royal Scottish Academy buildings are located. East Princes Street Gardens run from The Mound to Waverley Bridge, and cover 8.5 acres (3.4 ha). The larger West Princes Street Gardens cover 29 acres (12 ha) and extend to

32725-419: Was located here. The present Esplanade was laid out as a parade ground in 1753, and extended in 1845. It is upon this Esplanade that the Edinburgh Military Tattoo takes place annually. From the Esplanade the Half Moon Battery is prominent, with the Royal Palace to its left. The Gatehouse at the head of the Esplanade was built as an architecturally cosmetic addition to the castle in 1888. Statues of Robert

32912-420: Was moved to George Square, outside the school of Scandinavian studies in 2020. At the eastern entrance to the Gardens there is the world's first floral clock dating from 1903. The large curved monument to the Royal Scots stands slightly hidden just south of the gardener's cottage. It was designed by Sir Frank Mears with sculpture by Pilkington Jackson . Described as a "modern henge" it dates from 1950 but

33099-449: Was necessary to support his impoverished family, but it taught him persistence, endurance, and a natural empathy with all who labour, as expressed by lines that he used to hum from the egalitarian Robert Burns song : "When man to man, the world o'er/Shall brothers be for a' that". Livingstone attended Blantyre village school, along with the few other mill children with the endurance to do so despite their 14-hour workday (6 am–8 pm). Having

33286-422: Was passed to them from the council in 1816 and the gardens were opened to subscribers generally in the New Town in 1821. Dogs, cricket, perambulators and smoking were prohibited under their rules, and people using bath-chairs had to present a doctor's certificate to the Committee of the garden attesting to their ailment not being contagious. An application by the Scottish Association for Suppressing Drunkenness that

33473-440: Was reinforced for Livingstone when he attended the Exeter Hall meeting of 1 June 1840 where Buxton powerfully made the case that the African slave trade would be ended if chiefs, instead of having to sell slaves, could obtain desired European goods through "legitimate trade", its effect augmented by Christian missions preaching the gospel and introducing school education. Livingstone left London on 17 November 1840, passenger on

33660-406: Was resisted by the dolerite, which protected the softer rock to the east, leaving a crag and tail formation. The summit of the Castle Rock is 130 metres (430 ft) above sea level, with rocky cliffs to the south, west, and north, rising to a height of 80 metres (260 ft) above the surrounding landscape. This means that the only readily accessible route to the castle lies to the east, where

33847-640: Was still serious debate on the matter. Livingstone believed that the source was farther south and assembled a team to find it consisting of freed slaves, Comoros Islanders, twelve Sepoys , and two servants from his previous expedition, Chuma and Susi . Livingstone set out from the mouth of the Ruvuma river, but his assistants gradually began deserting him. The Comoros Islanders had returned to Zanzibar and (falsely) informed authorities that Livingstone had died. He reached Lake Malawi on 6 August, by which time most of his supplies had been stolen, including all his medicines. Livingstone then travelled through swamps in

34034-445: Was succeeded by French smiths, who began manufacturing hagbuts (another type of firearm) in the 1550s, and by 1541 the castle had a stock of 413. Meanwhile, the royal family began to stay more frequently at the Abbey of Holyrood , about 1 mile (1.6 km) from the castle. Around the end of the fifteenth century, King James IV (r.1488–1513) built the Palace of Holyroodhouse , by the abbey, as his principal Edinburgh residence and

34221-507: Was tended by Moffat's daughter Mary, and they became engaged. His arm healed, enabling him to shoot and lift heavy weights, though it remained a source of much suffering for the rest of his life, and he was not able to lift the arm higher than his shoulder. Livingstone and Mary were married on 9 January 1845. Livingstone was obliged to leave his first mission at Mabotsa in Botswana in 1845 after irreconcilable differences emerged between him and his fellow missionary, Rogers Edwards, and because

34408-451: Was the second of seven children born to Neil Livingstone (1788–1856) and his wife Agnes ( née Hunter; 1782–1865). David was employed at the age of ten in the cotton mill of Henry Monteith & Co. in Blantyre Works . He and his brother John worked 14-hour days as piecers , tying broken cotton threads on the spinning machines. Neil Livingstone was a Sunday school teacher and teetotaller who handed out Christian tracts on his travels as

34595-411: Was too short, and the alarm was raised after a change of the watch. The Jacobites fled, while the deserters within the castle were hanged or flogged. In 1728, General Wade reported that the castle's defences were decayed and inadequate, and a major strengthening of the fortifications was carried out throughout the 1720s and 1730s. This was the period when most of the artillery defences and bastions on

34782-439: Was tutored by a local Roman Catholic man, Daniel Gallagher (later a priest, founder of St Simon's, Partick ). Livingstone worked hard, got a good grounding in science and medicine, and made lifelong friends including Andrew Buchanan and James Young . The London Missionary Society (LMS) was at the time the major organisation in the country for missionary work, and unlike others was open to Congregationalists . He applied to

34969-472: Was uncovered in 2012. Running along the southern edge of the West Princes Street Gardens is a train line separating the garden from the Castle Hill Garden. You can access Castle Hill Garden via a bridge behind the Ross Band Stand. The garden has been closed for several years due to rockfall and subsidence. Until the 1960s on the western side of the West Princes Street Gardens the Castle Terrace Gardens were adjoined. In 1964 these gardens were dug up to construct

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