Made-to-measure ( MTM ) typically refers to custom clothing that is cut and sewn using a standard-sized base pattern. Suits and sport coats are the most common garments made-to-measure. The fit of a made-to-measure garment is expected to be superior to that of a ready-to-wear garment because made-to-measure garments are constructed to fit each customer individually based on a few body measurements to customize the pre-existing pattern. Made-to-measure garments always involve some form of standardization in the pattern and manufacturing, whereas bespoke tailoring is entirely made from scratch based on a customer's specifications with far more attention to minute fit details and using multiple fittings during the construction process. All else being equal, a made-to-measure garment will be more expensive than a ready-to-wear garment but cheaper than a bespoke one. "Custom made" most often refers to MTM.
27-422: Tailor Made may also refer to: Bespoke – clothing made by a tailor Tailor Made (album) , album by Brian Byrne A song by Colbie Caillat from the album Coco Brand-name cigarettes See also [ edit ] Taylormade (disambiguation) Topics referred to by the same term [REDACTED] This disambiguation page lists articles associated with
54-463: A "made-to-measure suit would be cut, usually by machine, from an existing pattern, and adjusted according to the customer's measurements," while "a bespoke suit would be fully hand-made and the pattern cut from scratch, with an intermediary baste stage which involved a first fitting so that adjustments could be made to a half-made suit." The ruling concluded, however, that a "majority of people... would not expect that bespoke suit to be fully hand-made with
81-427: A pair of spectacles"). One French bespoke shirtmaker was said to offer 400 shades of white, to satisfy vendor-customer relationships and desire for custom-made items. The New York Times devoted an article to bespoke cocktails, which they described as "something devised on the spot to a customer's precise and sometimes peculiar specifications". In another article, The New York Times described bespoke perfumes' taking
108-655: A particular specification (altered or tailored to the customs, tastes, or usage of an individual purchaser). In contemporary usage, bespoke has become a general marketing and branding concept implying exclusivity and limited runs. Bespoke is derived from the verb bespeak , meaning to "speak for something". The particular meaning of the verb form is first cited from 1583 and given in the Oxford English Dictionary : "to speak for, to arrange for, engage beforehand: to 'order' (goods)." The adjective "bespoken" means "ordered, commissioned, arranged for" and
135-469: Is first cited from 1607. Originally, the adjective bespoke described tailor-made suits and shoes. According to Collins English Dictionary , the term was generally British English in 2008. American English more commonly uses the word custom instead, as in custom-made, custom car , or custom motorcycle . Nevertheless, bespoke has seen increased usage in American English during
162-525: The Savile Row tailors who use the word to describe custom handmade suits. Made to measure The made-to-measure process is simple considering that its purpose is to make an existing garment fit a person better. The very first step is for the tailor to take precise measurements of both the customer and the garment itself. Basic measurements taken include measurements of the chest, waist, seat etc., and most importantly, these measurements are taken as
189-596: The "global communications boom" contributed to a "superset of English vocabulary"; another business writer explained that software companies in India were accustomed to adapting their language depending on the client, so that switching between bespoke software and custom software was the equivalent of switching between lift and elevator or queue and line . By 2008, the term was more often used to describe software, database and computer applications than suits, shirts or shoes. The BBC News Magazine wrote in 2008 that
216-518: The "world of personalization to an entirely new level". A 2016 The New York Times article describes a satirical video about bespoke water and observed: "The B word has become an increasingly common branding lure employed by interior design companies, publishers, surgeons and pornographers. There are bespoke wines, bespoke software, bespoke vacations, bespoke barber shops, bespoke insurance plans, bespoke yoga, bespoke tattoos, even bespoke medical implants." A 2022 Saveur Magazine article described
243-426: The 19th century, most clothing was made to measure , or bespoke, whether made by professional tailors or dressmakers , or as often, at home. The same applied to many other types of goods. With the advent of industrialised ready to wear clothing, bespoke became largely restricted to the top end of the market, and is now normally considerably more expensive, at least in developed countries. At some point after that,
270-419: The 21st century. The word bespoke is most known for its "centuries-old relationship" with tailor-made suits , but the Oxford English Dictionary also ties the word to shoemaking in the mid-1800s. Although it is now used as an adjective, it was originally used as the past participle of bespeak . According to a spokesperson for Collins English Dictionary, it later came to mean to discuss , and then to
297-525: The Oxford definition, others concluded that the ASA "took a rather ignorant decision to declare that there is no difference between bespoke and made-to-measure." In essence, MTM (made-to-measure) is a step up from pret-a-porter. It's affordable for most people and solves some of the common fit issues that shoppers may have with ready-to-wear garments. The main advantage of MTM is that the clothes will be adapted to
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#1732797437894324-491: The adjective describing something that was discussed in advance , which is how it came to be associated with tailor-made apparel. The word was used as an adjective in A Narrative of the Life of Mrs Charlotte Charke , the 1755 autobiography of the actress Charlotte Charke , which refers to The Beaux' Stratagem as "a bespoke play". After that, the adjective was generally associated with men's tailor-made suits. Before about
351-405: The bespoke drive was anti-tradition, and about a desire to be different rather than identify collectively with others. Newsweek described the word as "monstrously distorted, abused and otherwise mangled into near meaninglessness", saying that anything can now be labeled "bespoke". The same Newsweek writer used the word as a verb to describe ordering a custom-made pair of glasses ("bespeaking
378-442: The customer's measurements and is further altered to match the customer's measurements on the original garment. Lastly, the garment is given to the customer to try it on. Although the process is simple, it is however lengthy because tailors measure and remeasure the garment on the person to make sure it fits exactly how it's wanted. Made-to-measure items typically have a price markup compared to their ready-to-wear counterparts due to
405-515: The customer's physique and the customer can have the option of choosing fabric, details, sleeve length, pose adjustment, shirt length, jacket length, etc. The main disadvantage is that customers have to wait up to several weeks for the clothes to be ready and delivered. A typical price increase for a bespoke fashion item is 15% higher than the price of a ready-made garment. [7] Making bespoke MTM garments takes longer than ready-to-wear (RTW), but not as long as making bespoke garments. Unlike Bespoke, which
432-534: The customization and personalized service involved in their production. The primary benefits to the customer of made-to-measure clothing are that the garments will be well-fitted to the customer's body and the customer may have the opportunity to customize the fabric and detailing. However, the primary disadvantage of made-to-measure is that the customer must wait up to several weeks for the garment to be sewn and delivered. Made-to-measure retailers often travel internationally meeting clients in cities, providing samples of
459-497: The humble guacamole as "...bespoke: Diners could make their guac mild, medium, or hot". The UK Savile Row Bespoke Association has requirements for a garment to use the term bespoke , but those requirements are not followed by some manufacturers. In 2008, the British Advertising Standards Agency allowed a company, Sartoriani, to use bespoke to describe its suits, causing a controversy with
486-471: The latest materials and styles. Unlike bespoke garments, which traditionally involves hand sewing, made-to-measure manufacturers use both machine- and hand-sewing. Made-to-measure also requires fewer fittings than bespoke, resulting in a shorter wait between customer measurement and garment delivery. Made-to-measure is sometimes also referred to as personal tailoring . In the United Kingdom ,
513-585: The legal definition of "made-to-measure" has been conflated with bespoke tailoring by a ruling of the Advertising Standards Authority . The ruling is based on the Oxford English Dictionary definition of bespoke as "made to order". While this ruling clarified the difference between bespoke and ready-to-wear, it had the effect of blurring the line between bespoke and made-to-measure. The ruling established that
540-416: The pattern cut from scratch," effectively equalizing the terms bespoke and made-to-measure. While etymologist Michael Quinion observed that by definition "it was legitimate for a tailor offering clothes cut and sewn by machine to refer to them as bespoke, provided that they were made to the customer's measurements", since the traditional use of bespoke inside the tailoring community has been more nuanced than
567-408: The tailor studies the posture of the person to make sure the garment won't be uncomfortable for the customer to wear. Then, the tailor will proceed to either cut the fabric of the original garment to make it fight tighter/smaller or will select the fabric that closest resembles the original garment's fabric to make it looser/bigger. A base pattern is similarly selected which most closely corresponds with
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#1732797437894594-531: The term bespoke at the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office , with half of those having been filed only in the previous 18 months. The Wall Street Journal said that the term had started to proliferate in corporations and among investors a few years before that. A writer in The Independent said that consumers no longer wanted to "keep up with the Joneses", but wanted to set themselves apart, saying that
621-540: The title Tailor Made . If an internal link led you here, you may wish to change the link to point directly to the intended article. Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tailor_Made&oldid=997694372 " Category : Disambiguation pages Hidden categories: Short description is different from Wikidata All article disambiguation pages All disambiguation pages Bespoke Bespoke ( / b i ˈ s p oʊ k / ) describes anything commissioned to
648-565: The word bespoke came to be applied to more than tailoring, although it is unclear exactly when. Mark-Evan Blackman of the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York told The Wall Street Journal in 2012 that the "bespoke proliferation may be tied to young Hollywood types becoming enamored with custom suits about a decade ago". The Wall Street Journal article said that "language purists" were not happy, while suit makers said
675-403: The word had been "bastardized". In 1990, American writer William Safire questioned in a New York Times article what had become of "custom, a word fading from our fashion vocabulary in a blizzard of British usage". In a play on words, he wrote of the snob appeal of the word: "To be suitably trendy, bespeak to me of bespoke tailoring." Gentlemen's Quarterly magazine wrote that the word
702-559: The word had increasingly been used to describe things other than websites, suits and shoes—like cars and furniture. Some examples of usage of the word are: Deborah Tannen , a Georgetown University linguistics professor, told The New York Times that "Americans associate it with the British upper class", adding that the word for Americans tapped into "our individualism. We want everything made specially for us. Even when it comes to salad bars." As of 2012 , there were 39 applications using
729-549: Was "gaining in popularity", meaning "the opposite of off-the-rack". In its contemporary usage, it implies exclusivity, and is used as an aid in marketing and branding. A 2014 India Today article described bespoke as an emerging branding trend that marketers would need to embrace. A 2001 google search of "bespoke and software" produced 50,000 hits, many not in the UK or the US. The New York Times quoted an Indian tech director as saying
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