Tui Fiti or Tuifiti is the name of a figure referred to in different legends in Samoan mythology and in other parts of Polynesia . In other stories, "Tui Fiti" means "high chief of Fiti."
106-643: On the island of Savaiʻi in Samoa , a spirit deity called Tui Fiti resides in Fagamalo , a village said to have once been settled by Fijians . The special abode of Tui Fiti was a mound within a grove of large and durable trees called ifilele ( Intsia bijuga ). Tui Fiti's abode is called the vao sa , a sacred part of the forest which is tapu in Fagamalo. Tui Fiti is referred to as the aliʻi (high chief) of Fagamalo. There are no other aliʻi chiefly titles in
212-470: A change in the character of many articles of manufacture. The warclubs and spears were of uncommon form, and neatly made. On 24 October, Wilkes writes, that the Porpoise arrived back at Sapapaliʻi village, having been gone nine days. The team met paramount chief Malietoa and his son at the village. With local guides Dr Pickering had travelled some way into the interior of the island, reaching one side of
318-490: A chiefs' council ( fono o matai ) in each village. The fono o matai carry out 'village law' and socio-political governance based on their traditional authority and faʻa Samoa. The authority of the matai is balanced against central government, the Malo. Most of the matai are males, however, the women in each village also have a voice in domestic affairs through the women's committees. The main government administration offices of
424-615: A grave, in the midst of the white men's sugar fields". The Germans, in particular, began to show great commercial interest in the Samoan Islands , especially on the island of Upolu, where German firms monopolised copra and cocoa bean processing. The United States laid its own claim, based on commercial shipping interests in Pearl Harbor in Hawaii and Pago Pago Bay in eastern Samoa, and forced alliances, most conspicuously on
530-665: A larger force of Samoan rebels loyal to Mataʻafa Iosefo . Supporting Prince Tanu were landing parties from four British and American warships. After several days of fighting, the Samoan rebels were finally defeated. American and British warships shelled Apia on 15 March 1899, including the USS Philadelphia . Germany, the United Kingdom and the United States quickly resolved to end the hostilities and divided
636-593: A larger-scale war seemed imminent. A massive storm on 15 March 1889 damaged or destroyed the warships, ending the military conflict. The Second Samoan Civil War reached a head in 1898 when Germany , the United Kingdom , and the United States were locked in dispute over who should control the Samoan Islands. The Siege of Apia occurred in March 1899. Samoan forces loyal to Prince Tanu were besieged by
742-452: A luxury resort estimated to cost $ 450 – US$ 500 million. The developers pay less than one penny per square foot of land per month. The development will include a casino , timeshares and a cultural centre. The company is expecting to receive the casino licence for Savaiʻi island in a new law legalising casinos proposed by the government, the Casino and Gambling Bill 2010 tabled to parliament by
848-581: A number of different households situated close to each other. Like the rest of Samoa, Savaiʻi is made up of villages with most of the land collectively owned by families or ʻaiga . Most people on Savaiʻi, 93% of the island population, live on customary land . The heads of the family are called matai , the holders of family names and titles. An extended family can have a number of chiefs with different chief titles. Men and women in Samoa have equal rights to chief titles which are bestowed by consensus of
954-533: A partnership between the local matai and villages, government, conservation organisations and international funding such as the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP). These support community based projects in villages, many of which are developed with international support and micro financing in areas of sustainable livelihoods, land management and conservation on both land and in coastal marine areas. There are wetlands in
1060-457: A pool in Safune was converted into a film processing laboratory and two young men from the village were trained to work there. Flaherty cast people from Safune in the film including local boy Taʻavale who played the lead role of 'Moana'. Another boy called Peʻa played the role of Moana's younger brother. Peʻa later became a chief with the title Taulealeausumai from the village of Faletagaloa. Playing
1166-453: A population of some 38,000 Samoans and 1,500 Europeans. However, native Samoans greatly resented New Zealand's colonial rule, and blamed inflation and the catastrophic 1918 flu epidemic on its misrule. By the late 1920s the resistance movement against colonial rule had gathered widespread support. One of the Mau leaders was Olaf Frederick Nelson , a half Samoan and half Swedish merchant. Nelson
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#17327659556331272-497: A volcanic crater about one thousand feet above the sea and some seven miles (11 km) inland. One 10 November 1839, the Wilkes Expedition weighed anchor at Apia and sailed westward, and on 11 November, had lost sight of Savaiʻi. With the country's independence in 1962, Samoa incorporates both traditional political structures alongside a western parliamentary system. The modern national Government of Samoa, based in
1378-530: Is Apia . The Lapita people discovered and settled the Samoan Islands around 3,500 years ago. They developed a Samoan language and Samoan cultural identity . Samoa is a unitary parliamentary democracy with 11 administrative divisions . It is a sovereign state and a member of the Commonwealth of Nations . Western Samoa was admitted to the United Nations on 15 December 1976. Because of
1484-568: Is a church in every village, mostly Christian denominations. Sunday is sacred and a day of rest as 98% of Samoans identify themselves as religious. White Sunday is one of the most important days of the year in Samoa when children are treated with special attention by their families and community. During World War II , Savaiʻi came under the Allies 'Samoa Defense Group' which included Upolu, Tutuila and Wallis Island and later extended in 1944 to cover bases in other islands such as Bora Bora and
1590-414: Is a matai and a long-serving senior member of cabinet, who was elected Prime Minister in 2021. Other women in politics include Samoan scholar and eminent professor Aiono Fanaafi Le Tagaloa , orator-chief Matatumua Maimoana and Safuneituʻuga Paʻaga Neri (former Minister of Communication and Technology). The judicial system incorporates English common law and local customs. The Supreme Court of Samoa
1696-584: Is also the site of the entry into Pulotu , the spirit world. Nafanua's father Saveasiʻuleo was the god of Pulotu. Another well-known legend tells of two sisters, Tilafaiga and Taema , bringing the art of tattooing to Samoa from Fiti . Tilafaiga is the mother of Nafanua. The freshwater pool Mata o le Alelo 'Eyes of the Demon' from the Polynesian legend Sina and the Eel is situated in the village of Matavai on
1802-424: Is appointed by the head of state to form a government. The prime minister's choices for the 12 cabinet positions are appointed by the head of state, subject to the continuing confidence of the legislative assembly. Prominent women in Samoan politics include the late Laʻulu Fetauimalemau Mataʻafa (1928–2007) from Lotofaga constituency, the wife of Samoa's first prime minister. Their daughter Fiamē Naomi Mataʻafa
1908-597: Is called Salelologa . It is the main point of entry to the island, and is situated at the east end of Savaiʻi. A tar sealed road serves as the single main highway , connecting most of the villages. Local bus routes also operate, reaching most settlements. Savaiʻi is made up of six itūmālō ( political districts ). Each district is made up of villages that have strong traditional ties with each other — of kinship , history , and land — and that use similar matai (titles for their village chiefs). Savaiʻi's relatively limited ecotourism operations are organized mostly at
2014-457: Is dominated by a 15 to 20 m high canopy of Dysoxylum huntii , Omalanthus acuminatus , Reynoldsia pleiosperma and Pterophylla samoensis . Other common trees include Coprosma savaiiense , Psychotria xanthochlora , Spiraeanthemum samoense and Streblus anthropophagorum . There are nearly 500 species of flowering plants and about 200 species of ferns in Samoa, making it richer than that of any tropical Polynesian island other than those in
2120-455: Is known as O le Ao o le Malo in Samoan, and since its establishment only paramount chiefs have held the office. The current head of state is Tuimalealiʻifano Vaʻaletoʻa Sualauvi II , who was elected by the legislature in 2017 and again in 2022. The Legislative Assembly or Fono is the unicameral legislature, consisting of 51 members serving five year terms. Forty-nine are matai title-holders elected from territorial districts by Samoans;
2226-478: Is located. A regular passenger and vehicle ferry operates seven days a week in the Apolima Strait between Salelologa and Mulifanua wharf on Upolu. The ferry crossing takes about 90-minutes with views of Apolima and Manono islands to the south. The ferries operate only during the day. Local buses and taxis are available at the terminal and township. There's also a wharf at Asau at the north west end of
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#17327659556332332-416: Is mainly subsistence with locals reliant on the land and the ocean for survival. Dolphins, whales and porpoises migrate through Samoa's waters. The Palolo reef worm ( Eunice viridis ) is a Samoan cuisine delicacy which appear in the ocean only one day of the year. Palolo has cultural significance and entire villages flock to the sea for harvest. Surrounded by a variety of tropical fauna, Samoan mythology
2438-541: Is mountainous, fertile and surrounded by coral reefs. Lonely Planet describes the Savaiʻi landscape as 'spectacular tropical terrain'. The island has a gently sloping profile, reaching a maximum altitude of 1,858 metres at Mt Silisili , the highest peak in the country and the Samoa Islands chain. Volcanic craters in the highlands are strung across the central ridges from Tuasivi (literally, backbone ) village in
2544-670: Is of volcanic origin and the mountainous interiors are covered with dense rain forests. The surrounding landscape consists of fertile plateaux and coastal plains with numerous rivers and streams. Samoa Samoa , officially the Independent State of Samoa and known until 1997 as Western Samoa ( Samoan : Sāmoa i Sisifo ), is an island country in Polynesia , consisting of two main islands ( Savai'i and Upolu ); two smaller, inhabited islands ( Manono and Apolima ); and several smaller, uninhabited islands, including
2650-467: Is referred to as a manaia title, one of the highest chief titles in Matautu. The title Peseta is included in the faʻalupega genealogy in Samoan oratory for the people of Matautu. Savai%CA%BBi Savaiʻi is the largest and highest island both in Samoa and in the Samoan Islands chain. The island is also the sixth largest in Polynesia , behind the three main islands of New Zealand and
2756-423: Is rich with stories of animals incorporated into their culture, traditional beliefs and way of life. The island is rich in biodiversity and endemic native species which are also highly threatened. The Central Savaiʻi Rainforest comprising 72,699 hectares is the largest continuous patch of rainforest in Polynesia and contains most of Samoa 's native species. Seventy percent of Samoa's settlements are by
2862-623: Is the Malietoa Tanumafili II Hospital, situated in Tuasivi village. Another district hospital is in Safotu , on the central north coast. With most of the land in Samoa under customary ownership with local governance by matai , tourism experiences take place on village land and within local culture. There are hotels, but like the rest of Samoa, many villages provide beach fale accommodation for visitors all around
2968-525: Is the court of highest jurisdiction. The Chief Justice of Samoa is appointed by the head of state upon the recommendation of the prime minister. Samoa comprises eleven itūmālō (political districts). These are the traditional eleven districts which predate European arrival. Each district has its own constitutional foundation ( faʻavae ) based on the traditional order of title precedence found in each district's faalupega (traditional salutations). The capital village of each district administers and coordinates
3074-402: Is the first country in the 21st century to switch to driving on the left. Maota Airport is a small airstrip with basic facilities situated 10-minutes south of Salelologa ferry terminal and township. Flights operate between Maota and Asau airstrip and Faleolo International Airport on Upolu. The inter-island flights take about 30-minutes. Asau Airport is an airstrip at the north west end of
3180-491: Is the largest contiguous rainforest in Polynesia. It is dotted with more than 100 volcanic craters and contains most of Samoa 's native species of flora and fauna , making it one of the world's most globally significant conservation areas. Faʻa Sāmoa , the unique traditional culture and way of life in Samoan society, remains strong in Savaiʻi, where there are fewer signs of modern life and less development than on
3286-587: The Aleipata Islands ( Nuʻutele , Nuʻulua , Fanuatapu and Namua ). Samoa is located 64 km (40 mi) west of American Samoa , 889 km (552 mi) northeast of Tonga , 1,152 km (716 mi) northeast of Fiji , 483 km (300 mi) east of Wallis and Futuna , 1,151 km (715 mi) southeast of Tuvalu , 519 km (322 mi) south of Tokelau , 4,190 km (2,600 mi) southwest of Hawaii , and 610 km (380 mi) northwest of Niue . The capital and largest city
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3392-533: The Cook Islands . A military governor of the Samoa Defense Group was Brigadier General Henry L. Larsen who had secret orders mandating a defensive position of the islands from east to west. The code name for the entire group of islands was "Straw" and the code name for Savaiʻi was "Strawman". The code for Upolu was "Strawhat", Tutuila "Strawstack" while Wallis Island was "Strawboard". A small base
3498-500: The Hawaiian Islands of Hawaii and Maui . While it is larger than the second main island, Upolu, it is significantly less populated. Samoans sometimes refer to the island of Savaiʻi as Salafai : This is its classical Samoan name, and is used in formal oratory and prose . The island is home to 43,958 people (2016 census), and they make up 24% of the population of Samoa. The island's only township and ferry terminal
3604-621: The League of Nations , then through the United Nations. Between 1919 and 1962, Samoa was administered by the Department of External Affairs , a government department which had been specially created to oversee New Zealand's Island Territories and Samoa. In 1943, this department was renamed the Department of Island Territories after a separate Department of External Affairs was created to conduct New Zealand's foreign affairs. During
3710-705: The Malo on Savaiʻi are situated in the village of Tuasivi , 10 minutes north of the ferry terminal and market at Salelologa . There's a district hospital, police station, post office and court houses in Tuasivi. Vaʻai Kolone , a matai and businessman from Vaisala , at the west end of the island, became the Prime Minister of Samoa twice in the 1980s. Samoa has 11 political districts (itūmālō) and 6 are in Savaiʻi; Faʻasaleleaga , Gagaʻemauga , Gagaʻifomauga , Palauli , Satupaʻitea and Vaisigano . Savaiʻi
3816-592: The Pulemelei Mound in Palauli district. Archaeology in Samoa has uncovered many pre-historic settlements including sites at Vailoa and Sapapaliʻi . Rich in Polynesian history and oral tradition, Savaiʻi is mentioned in myths and legends across the Pacific Islands and has been called the "Cradle of Polynesia." Samoan mythology tells stories of different gods. There were gods of the forest,
3922-454: The Samoan white-eye ( Zosterops samoensis ) which is only found in the high cloud forests and alpine scrub around Mt Silisili , and Samoan moorhen ( Gallinula pacifica ), which was last recorded in 1873 near Aopo with possible sightings in 1984 and 2003. The tooth-billed pigeon , ( Didunculus strigirostris ), also known as the manumea is also endemic and now increasingly rare, leading to
4028-625: The election , ending the rule of long-term Prime Minister Tuilaʻepa Saʻilele Malielegaoi of the Human Rights Protection Party (HRPP), although the constitutional crisis complicated and delayed this. On 24 May 2021, she was sworn in as the new prime minister, though it was not until July that the Supreme Court ruled that her swearing-in was legal, thus ending the constitutional crisis and bringing an end to Tuilaʻepa's 22-year premiership. The FAST party's success in
4134-455: The 2021 election and subsequent court rulings also ended nearly four decades of HRPP rule. The 1960 constitution , which formally came into force with independence from New Zealand in 1962, builds on the British pattern of parliamentary democracy , modified to take account of Samoan customs. The national modern Government of Samoa is referred to as the Malo . The head of state of Samoa
4240-556: The Americans or the British. The second major incident arose out of an initially peaceful protest by the Mau (which literally translates as "strongly held opinion"), a non-violent popular pro-independence movement which had its beginnings in the early 1900s on Savai'i, led by Lauaki Namulauulu Mamoe , an orator chief deposed by Solf. In 1909, Lauaki was exiled to Saipan and died en route back to Samoa in 1915. By 1918, Western Samoa had
4346-525: The Government of Samoa. The lease is unprecedented in Samoa where 80% of the land is under customary ownership, 6% freehold and the rest owned by the government. Moana (1926), one of the earliest documentaries made in the world, was filmed in Safune on the central north coast. The film was directed by Robert J. Flaherty who lived with his wife and children in Safune for more than a year. A cave with
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4452-501: The Hawaiian archipelago. About 25% of the species are endemic to Samoa. The variety of tropical plant life is also a material source for floral adornment, tapa cloth , ʻie toga , perfumes, coconut oil as well as herbs and plants for traditional medicines. Common plants with everyday usage include the smooth reddish purple leaves of the ti ( Dracaena terminalis ) plant used with coconut oil for traditional massage, fofo , and
4558-478: The Japanese will and there may not be a great deal of time left. —8 February 1943 Report on Western Samoa defence by 2nd Marine Brigade's intelligence officer, Lieutenant Colonel William L. Bales. On 18 May 1942 the 3rd Marine Brigade with 4,853 officers and men were on Upolu and Savaiʻi under the command of Brigadier General Charles D. Barrett. In October 1839, Savaiʻi and the Samoa Islands were surveyed by
4664-506: The Mau as a legitimate political organisation, and Olaf Nelson was allowed to return from exile. In September 1936, Samoans exercised for the first time the right to elect the members of the advisory Fono of Faipule , with representatives of the Mau movement winning 31 of the 39 seats. After repeated efforts by the Samoan independence movement, the New Zealand Western Samoa Act of 24 November 1961 terminated
4770-562: The New Zealand authorities banned the organisation. As many as 1500 Mau men took to the bush, pursued by an armed force of 150 marines and seamen from the light cruiser HMS Dunedin , and 50 military police. They were supported by a seaplane flown by Flight Lieutenant Sidney Wallingford of the New Zealand Permanent Air Force . Villages were raided, often at night and with fixed bayonets. In March, through
4876-616: The Samoans' seafaring skills, pre-20th-century European explorers referred to the entire island group , including American Samoa, as the "Navigator Islands". The country was a colony of the German Empire from 1899 to 1915, then came under a joint British and New Zealand colonial administration until 1 January 1962, when it became independent. The islands of Samoa were formed during the Miocene period around 7 million years ago. For
4982-699: The Solomon Islands south of Bougainville, and (3) territorial alignments in West Africa. The German Empire governed the western part of the Samoan archipelago from 1900 to 1914. Wilhelm Solf was appointed the colony's first governor. In 1908, when the non-violent Mau a Pule resistance movement arose, Solf did not hesitate to banish the Mau leader Lauaki Namulau'ulu Mamoe to Saipan in the German Northern Mariana Islands . The German colonial administration governed on
5088-607: The Trusteeship Agreement and granted the country independence as the Independent State of Western Samoa , effective 1 January 1962. Western Samoa, the first small-island country in the Pacific to become independent, signed a Treaty of Friendship with New Zealand later in 1962. Western Samoa joined the Commonwealth of Nations on 28 August 1970. While independence was achieved at the beginning of January, Samoa annually celebrates 1 June as its independence day. At
5194-701: The UN treaty on the Prohibition of Nuclear Weapons . In June 2017, Parliament amended Article 1 of the Samoan Constitution to make Christianity the state religion. In September 2019, a measles outbreak resulted in the deaths of 83 people. Following the outbreak, the government imposed a curfew in December later during the same year. In May 2021, Fiamē Naomi Mataʻafa became Samoa's first female prime minister. Mataʻafa's FAST party narrowly won
5300-463: The activities of the great powers battling for influence in Samoa ;– the United States, Germany and Britain – and the political machinations of the various Samoan factions within their indigenous political system. Even as they descended into ever greater interclan warfare, what most alarmed Stevenson was the Samoans' economic innocence. In 1894, just months before his death, he addressed
5406-469: The archaeological record supports oral tradition and native genealogies that indicate interisland voyaging and intermarriage among precolonial Samoans, Fijians , and Tongans . Notable figures in Samoan history included the Tui Manu'a line, Queen Salamasina , King Fonoti and the four tama a ʻāiga : Malietoa , Tupua Tamasese , Mataʻafa , and Tuimalealiʻifano . Nafanua was a famous woman warrior who
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#17327659556335512-551: The arrival of the SS Talune from Auckland on 7 November 1918. The NZ administration allowed the ship to berth in breach of quarantine; within seven days of this ship's arrival, influenza became epidemic in Upolu and then spread rapidly throughout the rest of the territory. Samoa suffered the most of all Pacific islands, with 90% of the population infected; 30% of adult men, 22% of adult women and 10% of children died. The cause of
5618-404: The blue moon butterfly species ( Hypolimnas bolina ) on Savaiʻi found that males accounted for just 1% of the population and had almost been wiped out by an invasive species. Sampling a year later showed a dramatic comeback and recovery to 40%. The surrounding Pacific Ocean , coral reefs and lagoons are rich in marine life and some are harvested as an important source of food in an economy that
5724-480: The brig surveyed the island's coastline and tides. Dr Pickering and the lieutenant were hosted by the resident missionary at Sapapaliʻi, the Reverend Mr. Hardie. The Porpoise examined the bay of Palauli where there was a missionary station under the supervision of a Mr M'Donald. Wilkes' report also described Saleaula village, Asau at the west end of the island and 'the beautiful village of Falealupo ' which
5830-522: The capital Apia with the roles of Prime Minister, Members of Parliament and western styled political structure, is referred to as the Malo . Only Samoans with chief matai titles are eligible to become Members of Parliament. Alongside Samoa's national and modern political structure is traditional authority vested in family chiefs (matai). The term Pule is applied to traditional authority in Savaiʻi. The word Pule refers to appointments or authorities conferred on certain clans or individuals, sometime in
5936-425: The capital Apia , which can also help to settle disputes. At the village level, much of the country's civil and criminal matters can be dealt with directly by the matai chief village councils. The village of Falealupo on the westernmost point of Savaiʻi, is just 20 miles (32 km) from the dateline. It was arguably the last place in the world to see the sunset until a time zone change at end of 2011. Falealupo
6042-519: The coast with increasing threat from climate change and sea level rising. As most of the land in Samoa is under customary ownership, conservation projects are developed with the approval and cooperation of villages. The Government of Samoa supports conservation covenants for three natural areas on Savaiʻi, the Falealupo Rainforest Preserve, Tafua Rainforest Preserve and Aopo Cloud Forest Reserve. The conservation projects are
6148-417: The current proposition to upgrade it to critically endangered. It is the national bird of Samoa and is found on some of the local currency. It is likely that the extensive loss of lowland forest, hunting and invasive species are responsible for the decline of this stunning species. Samoa has more native species of ferns and butterflies than New Zealand , a country 85 times larger. In 2006, research samples of
6254-584: The demonstration. When he resisted, a struggle developed between the police and the Mau. The officers began to fire randomly into the crowd and used a Lewis machine gun , mounted in preparation for the demonstration, to disperse the demonstrators. Mau leader and paramount chief Tupua Tamasese Lealofi III was shot from behind and killed while trying to bring calm and order to the Mau demonstrators. Ten others died that day and approximately 50 were injured by gunshot wounds and police batons. That day would come to be known in Samoa as Black Saturday. On 13 January 1930,
6360-497: The dried root stems of Piper methysticum (Latin "pepper" and Latinized Greek "intoxicating") are mixed with water for the important ʻava ceremony conducted during cultural events and gatherings. Animal species include fruit bats such as the Samoa flying-fox ( Pteropus samoensis ), land and seabirds, skinks and geckos. The birdlife of Samoa includes a total of 82 species, of which 11 are endemic , found only in Samoa. Endemic birdlife found only on Savaiʻi include species such as
6466-699: The early economic development of Samoa. The Salem brig Roscoe (Captain Benjamin Vanderford), in October 1821, was the first American trading vessel known to have called, and the Maro (Captain Richard Macy) of Nantucket , in 1824, was the first recorded United States whaler at Samoa. The whalers came for fresh drinking water, firewood, provisions and, later, for recruiting local men to serve as crewmen on their ships. The last recorded whaler visitor
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#17327659556336572-422: The east towards Cape Mulinuʻu to the west. The lava fields at Saleaula village on the central north coast are the result of volcanic eruptions from Mt Matavanu (1905–1911). Most of the coastline are palm fringed beaches and there are rainforests, waterfalls, caves, freshwater pools, blowholes and coral reefs. There are also numerous archaeological sites, including star mounds, fortifications and pyramids such as
6678-578: The epidemic was confirmed in 1919 by a Royal Commission of Inquiry into the Epidemic concluded that there had been no epidemic of pneumonic influenza in Western Samoa before the arrival of the Talune from Auckland on 7 November 1918. The pandemic undermined Samoan confidence in New Zealand's administrative capacity and competence. Some Samoans asked that the rule of the islands be transferred to
6784-418: The evening meal and lasts about half an hour. It is usually signalled by the sound of a conch shell or the ringing of the church bell. The sa usually means no loud noise or walking through the village commons. Matai sometimes stand by the side of the main road, which pass through village land, to slow down traffic until prayers are over. Tourism is overseen by the government Samoa Visitors' Bureau, situated in
6890-530: The extended family. Traditionally, male and female roles are defined by labours and tasks, chiefly status and age. Women play an important role contributing to family decisions as well as village governance. Elders are revered and respected. Social relationships are dictated by cultural etiquettes of politeness and common greetings. The Samoan language has a 'polite' and formal variant used in Samoan oratory and ceremony as well as in communication with elders, guests, people of rank and strangers. In all villages,
6996-410: The famous United States Exploring Expedition led by Charles Wilkes . The survey of Savaiʻi was performed by Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold aboard the U.S. Brig Porpoise. Wilkes and other ships in the expedition were surveying Upolu and Tutuila at the same time. The Porpoise first touched down at the village of Sapapaliʻi . Some of the team, Dr Pickering and Lieutenant Maury were dropped off while
7102-552: The first known non-Polynesian to sight the Samoan islands in 1722. This visit was followed by French explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville , who named them the Navigator Islands in 1768. Contact was limited before the 1830s, which is when British missionaries of the London Missionary Society, whalers, and traders began arriving. Visits by American trading and whaling vessels were important in
7208-553: The first month of World War I , on 29 August 1914, troops of the New Zealand Expeditionary Force landed unopposed on Upolu and seized control from the German authorities, following a request by Great Britain for New Zealand to perform this "great and urgent imperial service." From the end of World War I until 1962, New Zealand controlled Western Samoa as a Class C Mandate under trusteeship through
7314-401: The four highest titles of Samoa – the elder titles of Malietoa and Tupua Tamasese of antiquity and the newer Mataʻafa and Tuimalealiʻifano titles, which rose to prominence in 19th-century wars that preceded the colonial period. These four titles form the apex of the Samoan matai system as it stands today. Contact with Europeans began in the early 18th century. Jacob Roggeveen , a Dutchman, was
7420-475: The government changed the rule of the road from right to left , in common with most other Commonwealth countries - most notably countries in the region such as Australia and New Zealand, home to large numbers of Samoans. This made Samoa the first country in the 21st century to switch to driving on the left. At the end of December 2011, Samoa changed its time zone offset from UTC−11 to UTC+13, effectively jumping forward by one day, omitting Friday, 30 December from
7526-699: The island chain at the Tripartite Convention of 1899 , signed at Washington on 2 December 1899 with ratifications exchanged on 16 February 1900. The eastern island-group became a territory of the United States (the Tutuila Islands in 1900 and officially Manu'a in 1904) and was known as American Samoa. The western islands, by far the greater landmass, became German Samoa . The United Kingdom had vacated all claims in Samoa and in return received (1) termination of German rights in Tonga , (2) all of
7632-560: The island chiefs: There is but one way to defend Samoa. Hear it before it is too late. It is to make roads, and gardens, and care for your trees, and sell their produce wisely, and, in one word, to occupy and use your country ... if you do not occupy and use your country, others will. It will not continue to be yours or your children's, if you occupy it for nothing. You and your children will in that case be cast out into outer darkness. He had "seen these judgments of God" in Hawaii , where abandoned native churches stood like tombstones "over
7738-418: The island of Upolu , where the capital , Apia , is located. Samoan society is communal and based on extended family relationships and socio-cultural obligations, so that kinship and genealogies are important. These faʻa Sāmoa values are also associated with concepts of love ( alofa ), service ( tautua ) to family and community, respect ( faʻaaloalo ) and discipline ( usitaʻi ). Most families are made up of
7844-467: The island such as Manase on the central north coast. These are small local businesses run by families within their villages and most of the income goes directly back to the community. There are island tours, diving, fishing, plantation trips, treks and other tourism related activities. Most shops are closed on Sundays with a few re-opening after church services in late afternoon. Every day, evening prayer ( sa ) takes place in every village around dusk before
7950-671: The island which mainly services chartered flights. A local market (open Monday – Saturday) at Salelologa sells fresh produce of fruit, vegetables and local crafts. There are also clothing stores, several small supermarkets, a wholesaler, petrol stations, bakeries, budget hotels and accommodation, buses, taxis, rental car companies as well as public amenities such as internet access, banks and Western Union money transfer outlets. There are small local shops in every village around Savaiʻi, selling basic groceries. Markets and most shops in Samoa close on Sundays with smaller outlets opening late afternoon after church services. The main hospital on Savaiʻi
8056-433: The island, sometimes used for yachting. Savaiʻi has an excellent tar-seal road circling the island. A leisurely drive around the island takes under 3 hours. The scenic drive is mostly along the coastline where most of the locals live in villages. Driving in Samoa is on the left side of the road, effective from 7 September 2009 when the government changed the law to bring motoring in line with neighbouring countries. Samoa
8162-481: The islands of Tutuila and Manu'a , which became American Samoa . Britain also sent troops to protect British business enterprise, harbour rights, and consulate office. This was followed by an eight-year civil war , during which each of the three powers supplied arms, training and in some cases combat troops to the warring Samoan parties. The Samoan crisis came to a critical juncture in March 1889 when all three colonial contenders sent warships into Apia harbour, and
8268-412: The lead female role in the film was Faʻagase, a girl from Lefagaoaliʻi . The film also showed the young hero 'Moana' receiving a peʻa , a traditional Samoan tattoo. Savaiʻi island lies north west of Upolu. These two largest islands of Samoa are separated by the Apolima Strait which is about 8 miles (13 km) wide with the small inhabited islands of Manono and Apolima between them. Savaiʻi island
8374-679: The local calendar. This also had the effect of changing the shape of the International Date Line , moving it to the east of the territory. This change aimed to help the nation boost its economy in doing business with Australia and New Zealand. Before this change, Samoa was 21 hours behind Sydney , but the change means it is now three hours ahead. The previous time zone, implemented on 4 July 1892, operated in line with American traders based in California . In October 2021, Samoa ceased daylight saving time . In 2017, Samoa signed
8480-614: The majority of people are largely sustained by plantation work and fishing with financial assistance from relatives working in Apia or overseas. Most people live in coastal villages although there are some settlements inland such as the villages of Aopo , Patamea and Sili . Behind the villages are cultivated plantations with crops of taro , cocoa koko , coconuts popo , yams palai , ʻava , fruit and vegetables as well other native plants such as pandanus for weaving ʻie tōga fine mats and bark for tapa cloth . There
8586-531: The mediation of local Europeans and missionaries, Mau leaders met New Zealand's Minister of Defence and agreed to disperse. Supporters of the Mau continued to be arrested, so women came to the fore rallying supporters and staging demonstrations. The political stalemate was broken following the victory of the Labour Party in New Zealand's 1935 general election. A 'goodwill mission' to Apia in June 1936 recognised
8692-445: The most meaning." The tropical climate and fertile soil results in a variety of flora. Vegetation types include littoral, wetland and volcanic vegetation. Rainforests include coastal, lowland and montane forests (above 500m elevation). Cloud forests are located in the highest elevations of the island which are often under cloud cover with wet conditions. At Mt Silisili, cloud forest occurs above 1200 m elevation. The Savaiʻi forest
8798-545: The name it had been called by in the United Nations since it joined. American Samoa protested against the name change, asserting that it diminished its own identity. In 2002, New Zealand prime minister Helen Clark formally apologised for New Zealand's role in the Spanish influenza outbreak in 1918 that killed over a quarter of Samoa's population and for the Black Saturday killings in 1929. On 7 September 2009,
8904-417: The north coast in the village district of Safune . Another figure of legend is Tui Fiti , who resides at Fagamalo village in the village district of Matautu on the central north coast. The village of Falelima is associated with a dreaded spirit deity called Nifoloa. Savaiʻi is known as the "Soul of Samoa." "Here the 20th century has put down the shallowest roots, and the faʻa Samoa —the Samoan way—has
9010-454: The other two are chosen by non-Samoans with no chiefly affiliation on separate electoral rolls. At least ten per cent of the MPs must be women. Universal suffrage was adopted in 1990, but only chiefs ( matai ) may stand for election to the Samoan seats. There are more than 25,000 matais in the country, about five per cent of whom are women. The prime minister , chosen by a majority in the assembly,
9116-461: The past 2 million years, the Samoan archipelago has experienced records of volcanic hotspots . Samoa was discovered and settled by the Lapita people (Austronesian people who spoke Oceanic languages ), who travelled from Island Melanesia . The earliest human remains found in Samoa are dated to between roughly 2,900 and 3,500 years ago. The remains were discovered at a Lapita site at Mulifanua , and
9222-483: The people of the place. However, he could be seen by strangers. In 1978, the Governor-General of Fiji , George Cakobau , arrived in Fagamalo during a state visit to Samoa. The High Chief of Fiji had requested a visit to Tui Fiti's burial ground. Cakobau was bestowed the chiefly title of Peseta by the matai of Matautu in recognition of Samoa's ancient connection with Fiji. The matai chief title of Peseta
9328-492: The period of New Zealand control, their administrators were responsible for two major incidents. In the first incident, approximately one fifth of the Samoan population died in the influenza epidemic of 1918–1919 . In 1918, during the final stages of World War I , the Spanish flu had taken its toll, spreading rapidly from country to country. On Samoa, there had been no epidemic of pneumonic influenza in Western Samoa before
9434-455: The political history of Samoa. This traditional Pule authority was centred in certain villages around Savaiʻi. In the early 20th century, these Pule areas on Savaiʻi island were Safotulafai , Saleaula , Safotu , Asau , Satupaʻitea and Palauli . Safotu, Asau, Satupaʻitea and Vailoa ( Palauli district) gained 'Pule' status at different times in the 19th Century, and together with the two older Pule districts, Safotulafai and Saleaula, became
9540-400: The prime minister Tuilaepa Aiono Sailele Malielegaoi in March 2010. The announcement of the tourist development raised concern among environmental group O Le Siʻosiʻomaga Society about the impact of the development. The Samoa Hotel Association also expressed concern at the size of the development and its impact on the island's environment and infrastructure. The development is supported by
9646-419: The principle that "there was only one government in the islands." Thus, there was no Samoan Tupu (king), nor an alii sili (similar to a governor), but two Fautua (advisors) were appointed by the colonial government. Tumua and Pule (traditional governments of Upolu and Savai'i) were for a time silent; all decisions on matters affecting lands and titles were under the control of the colonial Governor. In
9752-623: The scientists' findings were published in 1974. The Samoans' origins have been studied in modern times through scientific research on Polynesian genetics , linguistics , and anthropology . Although this research is ongoing, a number of theories have been proposed. One theory is that the original Samoans were Austronesians who arrived during a final period of eastward expansion of the Lapita peoples out of Southeast Asia and Melanesia between 2,500 and 1,500 BCE. Intimate sociocultural and genetic ties were maintained between Samoa, Fiji, and Tonga, and
9858-401: The seas, rain, harvest, villages, and war. There were two types of gods: atua , who had non-human origins, and aitu , who were of human origin. Tagaloa was a supreme god who made the islands and the people. Mafuiʻe was the god of earthquakes . There were also a number of war gods. Nafanua , Samoa's warrior goddess, hails from the village of Falealupo at the west end of the island, which
9964-408: The six Pule centres on Savaiʻi. In 1908, the 'Mau a Pule' resistance movement to colonial rule, which grew to become the national Mau movement , began on Savaiʻi and represented traditional authority against the German administration of Samoa. The equivalent term 'Tumua' is associated with traditional authority on Upolu island. At the local level throughout Samoa, traditional authority is vested in
10070-487: The south-west coast is owned by locals and was one of the first tourism accommodations attracting surfers. Other surfing spots around Savaiʻi include breaks off the villages of Lano , Aganoa Beach by Tafua , Lefagaoaliʻi , Lelepa and Fagamalo . In 2008, an American company South Pacific Development Group (SPDG) obtained a 120-year lease for 600 acres (2.4 km ) of prime oceanfront customary land in Sasina , to build
10176-488: The time of independence, Fiamē Mataʻafa Faumuina Mulinuʻu II , one of the four highest-ranking paramount chiefs in the country, became Samoa's first prime minister . Another paramount chief, Tuiaana Tuimalealiʻifano Suatipatipa II , was admitted to the Council of Deputies ; the remaining two – Tupua Tamasese Meaʻole and Malietoa Tanumafili II – became joint heads of state for life. On 15 December 1976, Western Samoa
10282-590: The village level. The Mau , Samoa's non-violent movement for political independence during colonialism in the early 1900s, had its beginnings on Savaiʻi, with the Mau a Pule movement . The island is the largest shield volcano in the South Pacific . Its most recent eruptions were in the early 1900s. Its central region comprises the Central Savaiʻi Rainforest , extending over 72,699 hectares (726.99 square kilometres; 280.69 square miles) which
10388-413: The village of Satoʻalepai on the central north coast where large sea green turtles ( Chelonia mydas ) are kept by the locals as an eco-tourism experience for visitors and provide extra income for communities. Another turtle habitat is at the village of Auala on the north west coast. Salelologa is the main port and township, situated at the east end of the island where the inter-island ferry terminal
10494-415: The village where all the matai chief titles are of orator tulafale status. Fagamalo is one of the pito nuʻu sub-villages of the greater Matautu village on Savaiʻi island's central north coast. The missionary George Turner wrote in Samoa, a Hundred Years Ago and Long Before (1884) that Tuifiti was the name of a village god in Savaiʻi who appeared as a man who walked about but was never visible to
10600-402: Was admitted to the United Nations as the 147th member state . It asked to be referred to in the United Nations as the Independent State of Samoa . Travel writer Paul Theroux noted marked differences between the societies in Western Samoa and American Samoa in 1992. On 4 July 1997 the government amended the constitution to change the name of the country from Western Samoa to Samoa ,
10706-596: Was deified in ancient Samoan religion and whose patronage was highly sought after by successive Samoan rulers. Today, all of Samoa is united under its two principal royal families: the Sā Malietoa of the ancient Malietoa lineage that defeated the Tongans in the 13th century; and the Sā Tupua, Queen Salamasina's descendants and heirs who ruled Samoa in the centuries that followed her reign. Within these two principal lineages are
10812-412: Was eventually exiled during the late 1920s and early 1930s, but he continued to assist the organisation financially and politically. In accordance with the Mau's non-violent philosophy, the newly elected leader, High Chief Tupua Tamasese Lealofi, led his fellow uniformed Mau in a peaceful demonstration in downtown Apia on 28 December 1929. The New Zealand police attempted to arrest one of the leaders in
10918-400: Was set up on the central north coast village of Fagamalo , which had a wharf and anchorage. Fagamalo was the main village for the colonial administration at the time on Savaiʻi, situated where the small post office is today. In its present unprotected state, Western Samoa is a hazard of first magnitude for the defense of American Samoa. The conclusion is inescapable that if we don't occupy it
11024-716: Was the Governor Morton in 1870. Christian missionary work in Samoa began in 1830 when John Williams of the London Missionary Society arrived in Sapapali'i from the Cook Islands and Tahiti . According to Barbara A. West, "The Samoans were also known to engage in 'headhunting', a ritual of war in which a warrior took the head of his slain opponent to give to his leader, thus proving his bravery." In A Footnote to History: Eight Years of Trouble in Samoa (1892), Robert Louis Stevenson details
11130-484: Was the site of Millennium 2000 celebrations and reported by the BBC as 'the last place on earth to enter the new millennium.' Falealupo also has protected rainforests. Savaiʻi has surfing off reef breaks all around the island, with more waves during summer on the north coast and the south coast in winter. The conditions are not for novice surfers and there can be dangerous undercurrents and rips. Satuiatua Beach Fales on
11236-493: Was under the charge of a Tongan missionary. At the 'north point' of the island, the brig found 'good anchorage' in the bay of Matautu (where the village of Fagamalo is situated). The brig was anchored and the harbour surveyed. Wilkes' wrote that this was the harbour on the island where a vessel could anchor in safety. Here, in Matautu, the explorers noticed a difference with other parts of Savaiʻi. A great difference in form, physiognomy and manners...was observed here, as well as
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