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32-424: Tweed is a rough, woollen fabric , of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun , but more closely woven . It is usually woven with a plain weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before it is spun. Tweeds are an icon of traditional Scottish, Irish, Welsh, and English clothing, being desirable for informal outerwear, due to

64-457: A cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease -free or wrinkle -free. In a similar way, mercerising , singeing , flame retardant , water repellent, waterproof , anti-static and peach finishing achieve various fabric properties desired by consumers. The use of 100% synthetic textiles has increased considerably since the development of textured yarns made of filaments and the growing production of knit goods. The use of open weave has enabled

96-462: A resin finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already exhibit these easy-care criteria and require only a heat setting operation. The greige cloth —woven cotton fabric in its loom-state—not only contains impurities, including warp size, but requires further treatment in order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable added value by applying one or more finishing processes. Singeing

128-411: A directional pile — in that the end consumer can 'stroke' the garment in a single direction (shoulder to cuff etc.), such as a casual jacket. This feels like the fibers are directionally arranged. Woolen yarn formation is also very common for knitwear , where the resultant garment has some bulk and the requirement for visual aesthetics (of fibre alignment) is minimal. The worsted processing route

160-572: A fabric in which any residual tendency to shrink after subsequent laundering is minimal. Fibers to fabric conversion lead to many mechanical tensions and forces during manufacturing, which includes following steps for fibre to yarn conversion with spinning then fabric with weaving , and knitting . When the products are immersed in water, the water acts as a relaxing medium and all stresses and strains get relaxed and try to come back to its original relaxed state. Even after finishing with sophisticated finishing machines, some residual shrinkage remains, which

192-551: A popular choice for hunters, cyclists, golfers, and early motorists, hence Kenneth Grahame 's depiction of Mr. Toad in a Harris Tweed suit. Popular patterns include houndstooth , associated with 1960s fashion , windowpane, gamekeeper's tweed worn by academics, Glen plaid check, originally commissioned by Edward VII , and herringbone . During the 2000s and 2010s, members of long-established British and American land-owning families started to wear high-quality heirloom tweed inherited from their grandparents, some of which pre-dated

224-413: A separate process known as fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring are prerequisites to most of the other finishing processes. At this stage even the most naturally white cotton fibres are yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is required. Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by

256-461: A source such as the sun is reflected off a pigment on the surface. The pigment selectively reflects certain wavelengths of light while absorbing others. A dye can be considered as a substance that can be fixed to a material that has these properties. The colour it reflects is defined by the structure of the molecule, and particularly the parts of the chromogen molecule called the chromophore group . There are two processes used to apply colour: Cotton

288-628: A trade-name taken from the River Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. The goods were subsequently advertised as Tweed and the name has remained since. Traditionally used for upper-class country clothing such as shooting jackets , tweed became popular among the Edwardian middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite. Due to their durability tweed Norfolk jackets and plus-fours were

320-404: Is a preparation method of textiles; it is applied more commonly to woven textiles and cotton yarns. Singeing in textiles is a mechanical treatment or finish to obtain a neat surface of the fabric or less hairy yarn. In a singeing machine, the yarns or fabrics are exposed to direct flames to burn the protruding fibers of the textile materials. Hence, also called "gassing". Depending on

352-450: Is an absorbent fibre which responds readily to colouration processes. Dyeing is commonly carried out with an anionic direct dye by completely immersing the fabric (or yarn) in an aqueous dyebath according to a prescribed procedure. For improved fastness to washing, rubbing, and light, other dyes such as vats and reactives are commonly used. These require more complex chemistry during processing and are thus more expensive to apply. Printing

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384-404: Is done by allowing twist into a short section of the rolag, and then pulling back, without letting the rolag change position in your hands, until the yarn is the desired thickness. The twist will concentrate in the thinnest part of the roving, thus when the yarn is pulled, the thicker sections with less twist will tend to thin out. Once the yarn is the desired thickness, enough twist is added to make

416-422: Is handspun using the long draw technique, and the yarn is spun from a rolag . Most handspinners make a blend of a woolen and worsted yarn, using techniques from both categories, and thus ending up with a mix. The first step to spin a true woolen yarn, however, is to card the fiber into a rolag using handcarders . The rolag is spun without much stretching of the fibers from the cylindrical configuration. This

448-432: Is mercerizing, during which the fabric is treated with a caustic soda solution to cause swelling of the fibres. This results in improved luster, strength, and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the tension is released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on grey cloth, or after bleaching. Color is a sensation caused when white light from

480-408: Is more complex and requires the removal of short fibres and the use of a focused mechanical process to make the individual fibres parallel to each other. The yarn formation process is significantly more comprehensive and results in a very sleek yarn which will offer a clean looking woven fabric, such as for suitings . The worsted process is more expensive and is seldom used for knitwear. Woolen yarn

512-413: Is passed between heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or embossed effects depending on roller surface properties and relative speeds. Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to produce low flammability, crease resist and other special effects. Mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates

544-440: Is raising. During raising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting hairiness, softness, and warmth, as in flannelette. Shearing is a kind of mechanical finish in which the appearance of the fabric is enhanced by cutting the loops or raised surface to a uniform and even height. The machine may have a spiral blade similar to a grass cutting machine . A Shearing machine can cut

576-505: Is the application of colour in the form of a paste or ink to the surface of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. It may be considered as localised dyeing. Printing designs on to already dyed fabric is also possible. The common processes are block printing , roller printing and screen printing Mechanical finish refers to machine finishes such as embossing, heat setting , sanforizing , sheering, various, luster imparting, surface finishes, and glaze finishes. Another finishing process

608-598: Is used to describe coverings on instrument cables and vintage or retro guitar amplifiers , such as the Fender tweed and Fender Tweed Deluxe . Despite the terminology, many of these coverings were not considered tweed but cotton twill due to the cover's design, which caused this misidentification of the design. Woolen The woolen and worsted process both require that the wool (and other similar animal fibres, cashmere , camel , etc.) be cleaned before mechanical processing. Woolen and worsted nomenclatures apply only to

640-565: Is woven while others are applied to the grey cloth directly after it is woven or knitted. Some finishing techniques, such as fulling , became outdated with the industrial revolution while others, such as mercerisation , are developments following the Industrial Revolution . In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different types of physical and chemical treatments. For example, wash and wear finish for

672-458: The loom or knitting machine is not readily useable. Called greige cloth at this stage, it contains natural and added impurities. Sometimes it is also processed at fiber or yarn stages of textile manufacturing . Grey fiber or yarn or fabric goes through a series of processes such as wet processing and finishing. Finishing is a broad range of physical and chemical treatments that complete one stage of textile manufacturing and may prepare for

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704-484: The Hebrides. The original name of the cloth was tweel , Scots for twill , the material being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance. Around 1831, a London merchant, James Locke , received a letter from a Hawick firm, Wm. Watson & Sons, Dangerfield Mills about some "tweels". The merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be

736-631: The Second World War. In modern times, cyclists may wear tweed when they ride vintage bicycles on a Tweed Run . This practice has its roots in the British young fogey and hipster subcultures of the late 2000s and early 2010s, whose adherents appreciate both vintage tweed, and bicycles. Some vintage Danemann upright pianos have a tweed cloth backing to protect the internal mechanism. Occasionally, Scottish bagpipes were covered in tweed as an alternative to tartan wool. The term "tweed"

768-399: The loop or the pile to a desired level. Peaching is also a mechanical finish comparable to raising but very gentle. The peach effect on fabrics is obtained by sanding the fabrics slightly; it imparts a protruded surface and soft feel. The peaching finish is also possible with certain chemicals or laundry abrasion. Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric

800-525: The material being moisture-resistant and durable. Tweeds are made to withstand harsh climates and are commonly worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting , in England , Wales , Ireland , and Scotland . In Ireland, tweed manufacturing is now most associated with County Donegal but originally covered the whole country. In Scotland, tweed manufacturing is most associated with the Isle of Harris in

832-404: The next step, making the product more receptive to the next stage of manufacturing. Finishing adds value to the product and makes it more attractive, useful, and functional for the end-user. Improving surface feel, aesthetics, and addition of advanced chemical finishes are some examples of textile finishing. Some finishing techniques such as bleaching and dyeing are applied to yarn before it

864-423: The production of lighter, breathable , fabrics to ensure better wearing comfort. The properties of petroleum -based synthetic fibers , most important among them being polyamide , polyester and polyacrylonitrile , are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and protein -based ( wool ) fibers. Hence the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic fabrics require

896-430: The required whiteness and absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent , such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide . If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example. However, for white bed sheetings and medical applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential. A further possibility

928-420: The size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a dilute acid and then rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the size. Scouring is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to remove natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (e.g. the remains of seed fragments) from the fibres and any adventitious oil, soiling or dirt. Scouring was used to carry in iron vessels called kiers . The fabric

960-400: The textile processing of animal fibres, but it has become common to include fibre blends under these terms. The resultant fabrics will be classified as being either woolen or worsted, but this designation is assigned during fiber processing and yarn formation, not in the cloth or finished garment. A woven woolen fabric is one which is subjected to fabric finishing techniques designed to add

992-489: The yarn strong. Then the yarn is wound onto the bobbin, and the process starts again. Finishing (textiles) In textile manufacturing , finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing . The precise meaning depends on context. Fabric after leaving

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1024-405: Was boiled in an alkali , which forms a soap with free fatty acids ( saponification ). A kier is usually enclosed, so the solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under pressure, excluding oxygen which would degrade the cellulose in the fibre. If the appropriate reagents are used, scouring will also remove size from the fabric although desizing often precedes scouring and is considered to be

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