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55-621: The Ice Climbing World Cup (or UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour , or IWC ) is an annual ice climbing competition organized by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) , who has regulated and governed the sport of competition ice climbing since the first IWC in 2002. It is the ice climbing equivalent of the IFSC Climbing World Cup in rock climbing . The IWC is organized as an annual tour consisting of over three to six events throughout

110-423: A dynamic kernmantle rope (usually via a figure-eight knot ). The second , who is belaying , will use a standard mechanical belay device that is clipped into the rope (i.e. same as that used in all lead climbing), and which pays out the rope as needed but can grip the rope tightly to catch the climber in the event of a fall. Top roping requires a fixed anchor at the top of the climb, from which two sides of

165-540: A curved serrated pick called the "Climax". This was followed in 1970, when Hamish MacInnes designed the all-metal aluminum alloy ice axe that had a radically dropped pick called the "Terrordactyl" (or Terror). These two ice axes revolutionized ice climbing and eventually became merged into the modern all-metal ice axe (later the ice tool) with its dropped pick but curved and serrated tip (the now familiar "banana shape"). Chouinard and McInnes' ice axes would lead to an explosion of interest in climbing on frozen waterfalls in

220-410: A fixed anchor at the top of the climb and then hang the rope down from this anchor at the rope's approximate mid-point (i.e. so that two parts of the rope are now hanging down the route). By definition, top-roping is only possible where the climber(s) can get to the top of the route by other means so that they can set up the anchor and pass the rope through it. Once the top rope is set up, the climber

275-483: A lead climbing format on an artificial bolted wall that employs dry-tooling techniques (e.g. stein pulls and figure-four moves ), and in a speed climbing format that uses a standardized wall of real ice. Since 2010, ice climbers at Helmcken Falls in Canada have been able to use the unique characteristics of the waterfall to create new severely overhanging bolted ice climbing routes, that are graded up to WI13, and are

330-448: A legitimate technique in preparing for a redpoint ascent. Top roping a new route is not considered a first free ascent of a climb, and because of the ability of the belayer to give aid to the climber, it is not strictly free climbing (although some advocate that with slack , it is similar to free climbing), and is thus differentiated from 'normal' lead climbing . In top-roping, the climber and their belayer (or "second"), arrange

385-455: A source of several ice climber fatalities. Ice climbing routes normally don't move beyond the sheer vertical for sustained distances due to the nature of ice (i.e. ice rarely stays in an overhanging fashion for any length of time). This means that standard ice-climbing grades broadly peak at WI6-7 (i.e. WI7 being completely sheer vertical ice and with additional risk issues). In contrast, extreme mixed-climbing routes have been developed beyond

440-429: A strong fixed anchor. Some indoor climbing walls offer auto belay devices that enable a solo climber to top rope without a belay partner. The auto belay is fixed to the top of the route and the climber clips into a wire that pays out from the device, which enables the device to belay the climber as if they were on a top rope. Top roping with auto belay devices is the format used in competition speed climbing and in

495-458: A top rope ascent cannot be used to claim a first free ascent (FFA) of a new climb. Before the arrival of sport climbing in the mid-1980s, practicing a traditional climbing route using a top rope before attempting to free climb the route was considered poor practice. A first free ascent where the climber had practiced the route on a top rope (called headpointing or hangdogging ), was noted in guidebooks to record its lesser status. When

550-406: Is a form of rock climbing where the climber is securely attached to a climbing rope that runs through a fixed anchor at the top of the climbing route , and back down to the belayer (or "second") at the base of the climb. A climber who falls will just hang from the rope at the point of the fall, and can then either resume their climb or have the belayer lower them down in a controlled manner to

605-405: Is a frozen waterfall, particularly one that cascades down a mountain face or a down-mountain gully. Ice climbing routes can also take the form of high alpine snow-covered couloirs that are permanently frozen year-round. Giant icicles (also known as ice-daggers) have also been climbed as ice routes, and also as part of mixed routes; although such icicles can often dangerously break off and have been

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660-414: Is an even riskier undertaking, or done as top roping which is a much safer form of ice climbing and the format used for novices being introduced to the sport. Ice climbing was developed as part of the broader climbing discipline of alpine climbing , where it is still a key component of the alpinist's skill set. Where the ice climbing route does not fully consist of ice and has elements of bare rock, it

715-494: Is done as mixed climbing (i.e. there are both ice and bare rock sections), a separate M-grading grading system is used, which goes from M1, M2, M3, ..... , M13, M14, etc. When ice climbing is done as dry-tooling , which is ice climbing on bare rock, the M-grade is replaced by a "D" prefix to denote a pure 'dry-tooling' route, however, the systems are otherwise identical. The following ice climbs are particularly notable in

770-479: Is enough rock for the bolts) that are graded above WI7 (currently at WI13, as at 2023) in Helmcken. For decades, ice and mixed climbing were part of the alpine climbing skill set. During the 1960s, ambitious early ice climbers began to use pitons to climb harder ice routes but this was dangerous and very unstable. The breakthrough came in the 1960s when Yvon Chouinard designed a new wooden-handled ice axe with

825-439: Is ensuring that the heels are neither elevated — as often required in rock climbing — or held too low; both scenarios which can result in the front teeth of the crampon shearing off from the ice and the climber losing their foothold(s). In moving upwards, ice climbers start from a balanced position with both feet exactly level, shoulder-width apart, and front-pointed into the ice, with the knees slightly bent forward and touching

880-444: Is known as mixed climbing . Where the route has no ice whatsoever, but the climber still uses the ice tools and crampons, it is known as dry-tooling . Because mixed climbing and dry-tooling routes can be fully bolted , like sport climbing rock climbing routes, they have become popular as safer alternatives to traditional ice climbing routes. Ice climbing can take on a broad range of climbing routes . A common type of ice route

935-446: Is then tied to one end of the rope (using a figure-eight loop follow-through knot), and the belayer clips their belay device into the other side of the hanging rope. As the climber ascends the route, the belayer " takes in " the " slack " in the rope, so that a climber who falls can simply hang from the rope, unlike a lead climber who falls at least twice the distance to their last point of climbing protection . In top-roping,

990-399: Is used in combination with auto belay devices in both competition speed climbing and competition ice climbing . Top roping is one of the relatively safest forms of rock climbing and is used by most beginners and novices of the sport. Before the era of sport climbing , top roping a route for practice (known as headpointing or hangdogging ) was considered poor practice; however, it is now

1045-452: Is very rare and usually attributed to overhanging ice with serious risk issues (i.e. unstable ice, little protection, and a risk of death). Mixed climbing has pushed the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes by crossing bare rock overhangs and roofs (using ice tools on bare rock is called dry-tooling ). Since 2002, the UIAA have regulated competition ice climbing , which is offered in

1100-495: The " R/X " suffix is used for danger. The WI-grade is for "hard ice"; steep snow slopes, which are encountered frequently on alpine climbing routes, are not explicitly graded but instead, their steepest angle (approximate figure or a range) is quoted (e.g. 60–70 degree slope). WI-grade is for "seasonal" hard ice; an AI prefix is used instead for "alpine ice", which is year-round and usually firmer, more stable, making AI-grade routes slightly easier than WI routes. In Canada,

1155-627: The Canadian Rockies blurred the distinction between waterfall ice and alpine climbing; the Moonflower Buttress (WI6 M7 A2, 1983) in the Alaska Range applied the highest levels of ice climbing skill to a major alpine first ascent; and the list goes on. Waterfall ice climbing, though initially pursued for its own sake, ended up revolutionizing alpine climbing". By the end of the 1980s, ice climbers had effectively reached

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1210-500: The IWC speed-climbing routes are on a standardized 40–50 ft (12–15 m) wall of ice that takes seconds for top roped ice climbers to complete (as per speed rock climbing). Over the years, the UIAA has increased the regulation and use around competition ice climbing equipment, including the prohibition of leashes on ice tools (so they cannot be used as aid), and increased controls on

1265-622: The North American Rockies and in the European Alps. Ice climber and climbing author Raphael Slawinski wrote in the American Alpine Journal : "By the early 1980s ice climbing, from being merely one of the techniques in the alpinist's arsenal, had evolved into a full-blown technical art. The skills gained on waterfalls also gave rise to a whole new generation of alpine climbs. Slipstream (WI4+, 1979) in

1320-414: The UIAA runs two main competition ice climbing events, the annual Ice Climbing World Cup (which is run as a series of events in the year) and the bi-annual Ice Climbing World Championships (a single, once-off, competition). Most of the IWC lead climbing routes are held on bolted dry artificial surfaces and thus employ dry-tooling techniques (e.g. stein pulls and figure-four moves ). In contrast,

1375-630: The WI prefix is sometimes dropped from the grade, and for longer multi-pitch ice routes, a " commitment grade " (a Roman numeral from I to VII) is also added to reflect the seriousness of the overall undertaking (e.g. the grade of a Canadian ice route can appear as III-5) The following WI-grades and descriptions are provided by the American Alpine Club (republished in 2013) who note: "Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. ... The following descriptions approximate

1430-402: The average systems:": Additional comment is from Will Gadd . In 2010, ice climbers Tim Emmett and Will Gadd began to put up ice routes at Helmcken Falls in Canada that had unique characteristics. Unlike WI7 ice routes that rarely overhang, these routes were significantly overhanging like extreme M-graded routes. This was due to the intense spray from the active waterfall, which covered

1485-436: The base of the climb. Climbers on indoor climbing walls can use mechanical auto belay devices to top rope alone. By definition, top roping can only be done on routes that are less than half the length of a typical climbing rope, which means single-pitch routes that are below 25–30 metres (82–98 ft) in height. Top roping is also used in ice climbing , and the related sports of mixed climbing and dry-tooling , and it

1540-475: The climbing rope needs to be at least twice the length of the climbing route (i.e. this is because the rope goes to the top of the climbing route and back to the climber who is starting at the ground level). As typical climbing ropes are 50–60 metres (160–200 ft) in length, it means that top-roping is only done on routes that are 25–30 metres (82–98 ft) in height (if not shorter, for safety), which are single-pitch routes. A belayer who takes in all

1595-404: The difficulty in construction, the common use of V-threads is as anchor points for abseiling or belaying , and not for lead climbing. The core techniques that are used in ice climbing are considered to be straightforward for even a novice to understand, however, it takes experience and skill to apply them efficiently and safely. This is particularly relevant on very steep ice (i.e. at or above

1650-482: The equivalent M8-grade (i.e. crossing bare overhanging rock roofs to get to the vertical hanging icicle, such as Jeff Lowe 's groundbreaking Octopussy WI6 M8 in Vail, Colorado ). In Helmcken Falls in Canada, an unusual situation arises where a perennially active waterfall keeps severely overhanging rock faces covered in thick ice, thus creating overhanging ice routes. Ice climbers have established bolted routes (there

1705-536: The evolution of ice climbing grade milestones and ice climbing standards from being a skill used by alpine climbing to a standalone sport in its own right: The grade milestones at Helmcken Falls are as follows: A number of ice climbers have set new grade milestones in a Solo climbing style (i.e. no protection such as ice screws but with equipment such as axes and crampons): A number of notable climbing films have been made that feature ice climbing, including: Top roping Top rope climbing (or top roping )

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1760-407: The grade of WI4) where inefficient technique will quickly drain the climber's energy, resulting in a potential break of the "golden rule of ice climbing", which is "don't fall". Modern ice climbing is built around the technique of front pointing , which means kicking the front spike(s) of the climber's crampon into the ice to enable the climber to ascend the face. A critical part of front-pointing

1815-506: The hardest technical ice climbs in the world. Ice climbing involves using specific pieces of specialized equipment, namely ice tools and crampons , to ascend routes consisting of frozen water ice, and/or frozen snow fields. As with rock climbing , ice climbing can be done as free climbing , and performed in pairs where the lead climber inserts climbing protection into the route as they ascend. The second climber (or belayer ), removes this temporary climbing protection as they climb

1870-448: The higher axe — will bring their feet up into a "squat position" until they are again level. Once the feet are secured and front-pointed into the ice, the climber will stand up straight and will start to swing with the other axe to reach the next position of maximum extension above their body. The technique has been described as "squat-stand-swing". Ice climbing uses a WI (for "water ice") grading system. WI-grades broadly equate to

1925-508: The ice climbing world around whether Helmcken-WI routes are M-grade climbs. In 2023, British ice climber Neil Gresham said that Helmcken routes are "definitely harder" than WI7 routes and that a confident M-climber will take time to adjust to the Helmcken WI-equivalent. Emmett has described Helmcken as the ice climbing equivalent of Yosemite , and it has attracted some of the world's best ice climbers. When ice climbing

1980-403: The ice. The ice axes (or ice tools) are rarely held at the same level — which can result in a very inefficient and energy-sapping "chicken wing" action — and thus there will usually be a higher axe placed at close to maximum extension above the climber and a second one placed below it (see photo opposite). Once the higher axe has been secured into the ice, the climber — resting their weight on

2035-525: The key tool for protection is the ice screw , a hollow metal threaded steel tube with cutting teeth on its base and a hanger eye on the opposite end. It is screwed into the ice and its stability is dependent both on the angle and quality of its placement and the soundness of the ice. Some ice climbs, such as in Helmcken Falls (see below), and mixed and dry-tooling routes, have enough rock to enable them to be bolted like sport climbs , avoiding

2090-401: The limits of what could be climbed at grade WI6-7; ultimately, the inherent tendency of the medium to hang in a vertical fashion limited the possibilities for development. It was mixed climbing that began to drive development in ice climbing as pioneers like Jeff Lowe dry-tooled bare rock overhangs and roofs to get to more radical ice features, such as hanging icicles; the culmination of which

2145-505: The mixed climbing M-grades from WI1 up to WI6, but after M6, mixed climbs become overhanging, which ice does not. WI-grades try to take some account of the difficulty of placing protection on the route but, as with M-grades, are more focused on the technical and physical challenge of the route, and are thus more akin to the French and US sport climbing grades, although as with the US system,

2200-494: The need for screws. As well as ice screws, the ice itself can be used for protection, with the most common technique being the Abalakov thread (or V-thread/A-thread). This consists of two intersecting tunnels bored into the ice using ice screws that form a V-shaped tunnel. A sling is threaded through this tunnel and tied into a loop. The climbing rope is passed through this sling, which remains left behind after use. Because of

2255-426: The next decade, grades were proposed up to WI13 with Mission to Mars in 2020. Emmett and Gadd consider Helmcken to be a potential Yosemite of ice climbing. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) has organized and regulated the sport of competition ice climbing since 2002 when the very first "Ice World Cup" (IWC) competition took place under the new UIAA rules and codes. Amongst others,

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2310-641: The overhanging routes in ice so that there was little dry-tooling , with all the movements on hard ice. As the routes were bolted like M-grade climbs (a metal detector is used to find the bolts), Emmett and Gadd re-established the link with M-grades as a guide on the WI-grade. The result was a series of new routes that laid claim to being the new "world's technically hardest ice climbing routes", starting with Spray On at WI10 in 2010, Wolverine at WI11 in 2011, Interstellar Spice at WI12 in 2016, and Mission to Mars at WI13 in 2020. There has been debate in

2365-445: The rope can be hung back down to the base. Because top roping is either done by novice climbers, or by experienced climbers practicing to attempt a route at the limit of their capabilities, there is a high probability that the anchor will experience a load, and it, therefore, needs to be strong. Some climbing areas place fixed artificial anchors (i.e. iron rings or cement blocks) at the top of routes to assist top rope climbers in creating

2420-521: The rope to pay-through as the climber ascends but will grip the rope tightly in the event of a fall. Big wall climbing can also use top rope solo climbing for the " second " (and other non-lead climbers), to speed up their follow-on ascent, and give the lead climber time to rest and/or look after other tasks (i.e. gear hauling). Ice climbing , and the related sports of mixed climbing and dry tooling , also use top-roping techniques to provide greater safety to climbers as an alternative to lead climbing

2475-401: The route after the lead climber has reached the top. In contrast to free rock climbing, the climbing protection used when leading ice climbing routes is based on the use of specialized steel ice screws . Ice screws require considerable experience to use properly and safely, and given that the underlying condition of the ice can change materially over time (including constantly breaking off),

2530-400: The routes. Lead climbing on ice is considered even more challenging than on rock, as the placement of secure ice screws is a complex task that requires judgment on ice quality and stability. The technique of top roping in ice climbing is identical to that of rock climbing but sometimes the creation of a secure anchor point at the top of the route can be more complex if it involves securing into

2585-440: The seriousness of leading an ice climbing route is considered to be greater than that of a traditional rock climbing route. For example, while an intermediate ice climber could top rope a WI4-graded ice climbing route, leading WI4-graded route is a far more serious undertaking. In contrast to rock climbing, "the leader must not fall" ethos is a core part of ice climbing. Ice climbing can also be done as Solo climbing , which

2640-439: The slack and maintains a high level of tautness in the rope is giving the climber a source of artificial aid in ascending the route. A physically strong belayer, or a belayer with a light climber (i.e. a child), can physically haul the climber up the route by pulling on the rope. Because of this aid that the belayer can give the climber, top roping is not considered free climbing (and nor is it considered lead climbing ), and

2695-419: The speed elements of competition ice climbing . Top rope solo climbing is where a single-length static fixed rope, anchored to the top of the route, is laid along the length of the climb (unlike normal top roping, the two sides of the rope are not needed). The climber then clips-into the fixed rope using at least one progress capture device (PCD) such as a Petzl Micro Traxion or a Camp Lift, that will allow

2750-436: The sport climbing definition of an FFA — the redpoint — became the standard definition in sport climbing and traditional climbing, such distinctions were dropped, and leading climbers now make extensive legitimate use of hangdogging and headpointing top-roping techniques when preparing (or projecting) for redpoint FFAs. In the 1998 climbing film Hard Grit , leading British traditional climber Johnny Dawes advocated for

2805-446: The use of " heel spurs " while climbing (to counter their use for resting). Ice climbing uses items of equipment that are common in rock climbing such as ropes , harnesses and helmets , as well as mechanical devices such as belay devices . However, the nature of the medium means that ice climbers also use equipment that is specific to their type of climbing. Where ice climbing is done as lead climbing (i.e. not top roping ),

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2860-417: The use of a top rope — with enough slack in the rope to avoid any implication of aid (i.e. in a fall, the climber would fall a few metres before the rope became taut)— to qualify as a free ascent on extreme traditional climbing routes, however, his view was not adopted by the wider climbing community. In common with lead climbing, top roping requires the standard equipment of a harness attached to one end of

2915-464: The year (the number has varied over the years), in which men's and women's lead climbing and speed climbing competitions are held. The lead climbing routes are held on largely bolted dry artificial surfaces (with some natural ice features) and thus employ dry-tooling techniques. The speed-climbing routes are on a standardized 40-50 foot wall of solid ice that takes seconds for top roped ice climbers to complete (as per speed rock climbing). Over

2970-588: The years, the UIAA has increased the regulation and use around competition ice climbing equipment, including the prohibition of leashes on ice tools (so they cannot be used as aid), and increased controls on the use of " heel spurs " while climbing (to counter their use for resting). * 2017: 2. Pavel Batushev doping Ice climbing From the 1970s, ice climbing developed as a standalone skill from alpine climbing (where ice climbing skills are used on ice and snow). Ice climbing grades peak at WI6 to WI7 as ice tends to hang vertically at its most severe. WI7

3025-462: Was Lowe's historic ascent of Octopussy (WI6, M8) in Vail in 1994, which lead to the birth of modern mixed climbing. It would not be until 2010 when Tim Emmett and Will Gadd began to put up ice routes at Helmcken Falls in Canada that ice climbing development would take a leap forward in technical development. Helmcken Fall's unique characteristics provided severely overhanging iced-routes, and in

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