Misplaced Pages

#570429

30-527: Viyella is a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England , and the "first branded fabric in the world". It was made of 55% merino wool and 45% cotton in a twill weave, developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Co , spinners and hosiers . The brand name, first registered as a trademark in 1894, and registered in the United States in 1907, soon covered not only

60-699: A Prime Minister of Australia . Reflecting on his country's geopolitical situation with the onset of war , Menzies commented that: "The problems of the Pacific are different. What Great Britain calls the Far East is to us the near north." Far East , in its usual sense, is comparable to terms such as the Orient ( Latin for "East"), Eastern world , or simply the East , all of which may refer, broadly, to East and South-East Asia in general. Occasionally, albeit more in

90-532: A "rich and interesting country in the Far East ( Extremo Oriente )." The term was popularized during the period of the British Empire as a blanket term for lands to the east of British India . In pre- World War I European geopolitics, Near East referred to the relatively nearby lands of the Ottoman Empire , Middle East denoted north-western Southern Asian region and Central Asia , and

120-455: A blending process. A polyester and viscose blend is used in baby wipes . For different items, distinct weight ratios are used. Far East The Far East is the geographical region that encompasses the easternmost portion of the Asian continent, including East , North , and Southeast Asia . South Asia is sometimes also included in the definition of the term. In modern times,

150-456: A fabric. Grey melange , marl and gaspe are examples of blending fibers and yarns. Blends are also used for cross-dyed fabrics. When dyeing fabric with two different classes of dyes in a blend, it is possible to dye both parts in completely different colors. It is called "cross-dyeing." Besides contributing to comfort and functionality, blends can produce economical materials. Nonwoven fabrics of various types can be manufactured using

180-417: A filament yarn is wrapped with staple fibers . Spandex filament may be wrapped with cotton fibers to form a core spun yarn. These yarns are called "composite yarns." Blends help in reducing the discomfort of certain synthetic clothing. Synthetic fibers, such as polyester, have a moisture regain rate of only 0.4'0.8 percent. Poor absorbency reduces the comfort of clothing that comes into direct contact with

210-464: A merger in 1961, Hollins became Viyella International, led by Joe Hyman, who in the next few years acquired a series of related companies, with Viyella growing to be one of the biggest textile businesses in the UK, owning 40 factories across the country. After a few years as Carrington Viyella and then Vantona Viyella, the company owning the brand became Coats Viyella (Coats Paton, now Coats Group plc), who in

240-418: A single fiber. Blending may add value and may reduce the cost of the product. For example, cotton is most often mixed with other fibers, particularly synthetics . This blending can be used to make cotton-like fabrics with improved functionality such as wrinkle resistance and dimensional stability. The addition of spandex to cotton improves the stretch of the product. Blending is also used to describe

270-420: A variety of aesthetic effects.: Blending is also used to create many weaving and knitting structures, such as plated fabrics . Devoré is a pattern-making technique that involves dissolving cellulosic fibers in acids . Typically, a polyester-cotton blend is used for this purpose. Heather is a term used to describe a color effect created by combining two or more different colored fibers or yarns in

300-475: A variety of fabrics. The original wool/cotton blend is no longer sold. Viyella was a soft dress-weight fabric that was more resistant to shrinkage than any comparable pure wool alternative ( challis , for example). In its early years it was marketed as a fabric which combined lightness and fashion with warmth and durability. One 1920s advertisement called it a "guaranteed unshrinkable fine wool flannel " for women who wanted both "daintiness" and "protectiveness". By

330-530: Is an old practice which became more widespread after around 1980. Recognizing the growing popularity of blends, the Wool Bureau introduced the "Wool blend" mark in 1970 for blends containing a high percentage of wool. Viyella was the first branded blended textile, and it is the oldest blended flannel structure. It features a twill weave of wool and cotton, and due to the cotton content, it can be washed more easily than an all-wool flannel. Any fiber has

SECTION 10

#1732797927571

360-564: Is sometimes excluded due to cultural and ethnic differences. The term is still used in Russia to refer to its sparsely populated easternmost regions (being "far" in this case from the political, economic and cultural centres, Moscow and Saint Petersburg ). Among Western Europeans, prior to the colonial era , Far East referred to anything further east than the Middle East. In the 16th century, King John III of Portugal called India

390-562: The Far East meant countries along the western Pacific Ocean and eastern Indian Ocean. Many European languages have analogous terms, such as the French ( Extrême-Orient ), Spanish ( Extremo Oriente ), Portuguese ( Extremo Oriente ), Italian ( Estremo Oriente ), German ( Ferner Osten ), Polish ( Daleki Wschód ), Norwegian ( Det fjerne Østen ) and Dutch ( Verre Oosten ). Significantly,

420-688: The Near East and the Middle East . Likewise, during the Qing dynasty of the 19th and early 20th centuries, the term " Tàixī ( 泰西 )" – i.e., anything further west than the Arab world – was used to refer to the Western countries. Since the mid-20th century, the term has mostly gone out of use for the region in international mass media outlets due to its perceived Eurocentric connotations. North Asia

450-576: The Second World War , and Viyella shirts were a desirable option. In the late 20th century it was 're-invented' as fashionable fabric. In 1987 The Times said it was used by designers interested in "vintage" style, like Laura Ashley , and creators of "modern classics". Clydella was a cheaper, less soft alternative made with 81 per cent cotton, produced at factories in the Clydeside area, including Glasgow and Hamilton , where Viyella

480-748: The 1980s built a new mill to produce Viyella cloth in Barrowford , Lancashire , but this was demolished in 1999. In the 21st century much of Coats manufacturing (now specialising in thread) has been moved abroad to far east countries and it is no longer possible to buy Viyella fabric in the UK. Coats underwent major restructuring in 2002 and sold off its Viyella fashion retail business (and Jaeger ) to entrepreneur Richard Thompson in 2003 for £1, who re-sold Viyella weeks later to venture capitalist Harris Watson. Viyella Ladieswear has since added home furnishings to its range of goods. The fashion chain entered Administration on 7 January 2009 citing "an assessment of

510-548: The Viyella trademark. It was also made into sheets, and at one time Viyella yarn was available for home knitting . In the mid-20th century the fabric was popular for children's clothes, from babies' nightgowns to winter shirts for British schoolchildren, and for pyjamas, shirts and dresses; it became associated with sensible, cosy clothing. Officers in the British and other Commonwealth armies purchased their own uniforms during

540-469: The current economic situation and the prospects for the future" as the cause. In 2009, the upmarket retailer Austin Reed agreed to buy Viyella for an undisclosed sum. In late 2011, Viyella opened its flagship store next to Austin Reed at 92 Regent Street, London. Blend (textile) Union or union fabric was a 19th century term for a blended fabric . It is no longer used. Blending in textiles

570-623: The early 20th century it came in various weights and widths, some rather narrow by today's standards, and in both plain colours and woven or printed patterns, and was exported from the United Kingdom to other English-speaking countries. Towards the end of the 20th century it was woven in 150 cm (59 in) wide lengths suitable for modern garment design and production. The first ready-made garments using Viyella were shirts and nightgowns, and soon came dresses, slips and other clothing, much of it produced under franchise arrangements using

600-417: The general name 'Far East.' Americans who reached China, Japan and Southeast Asia by sail and steam across the Pacific could, with equal logic, have called that area the 'Far West.' For the people who live in that part of the world, however, it is neither 'East' nor 'West' and certainly not 'Far.' A more generally acceptable term for the area is 'East Asia,' which is geographically more precise and does not imply

630-414: The original fabric, to be sold by the yard ( piece goods ), but also clothing. At first this was made by separate businesses, but it was not long before Hollins started producing their own clothes and offering franchises to manufacturers who would use the Viyella label. Following increasing emphasis on garment manufacture over the years, Viyella is now a fashion brand for clothes and home furnishings made of

SECTION 20

#1732797927571

660-924: The outdated notion that Europe is the center of the civilized world. Today, the term remains in the names of some longstanding institutions, including the Far Eastern Federal University in Vladivostok , Far Eastern University in Manila , the Far East University in South Korea, and Far East , the periodical magazine of the Missionary Society of St. Columban . Furthermore, the United States and United Kingdom have historically incorporated Far East in

690-604: The past, the Russian Far East and South Asia have been deemed to be part of the Far East. Commenting on such terms, John K. Fairbank and Edwin O. Reischauer (both professors of East Asian Studies at Harvard University ) wrote, in East Asia: The Great Tradition : When Europeans traveled far to the east to reach Cathay , Japan and the Indies , they naturally gave those distant regions

720-548: The potential to contribute to a blended fabric depending upon the intended use. Continuous testing is carried out to determine the best fiber blends and the percentages that are best suited to specific uses. Polyester is the most frequently used synthetic fibre, it has earned the name, "workhorse" fiber of the industry. The staple form of the Polyester fibers has been referred as "big mixer" because of its compatibility in blending. Polyester imparts many properties without affecting

750-474: The process of combining small amounts of the same fibers from various lots to produce a uniform result. The process is known as "blending" in spinning. The blending of similar kinds of fibers or different fibers is possible at various stages of yarn spinning, such as the blow room, draw frame, and roving. Blending helps in spinning those fibers which are weak and difficult to spin. For example, milkweed fibers lack strength and cohesion. In core spun yarns;

780-430: The properties of other fibers. Bicomponent fiber are the fibers produced by mixing two different polymers to achieve the properties of both fibers. For example, Polyester and Nylon may be mixed together in extrusion . The polymers in the bicomponent may have entirely different physical and chemical properties. Products with blends, mixtures, and combinations may have properties that differ from those obtained with

810-468: The skin. Blending polyester with absorbent fibers such as cotton improves the wearing comfort. Polyester-cotton blended clothing is more comfortable to wear in humid climates than polyester alone. A heavy pair of jeans made of 100% cotton that weigh 14 oz (396.9 g) can be cut down to 11 oz (311.8 g), without compromising durability, by changing the composition to a blend of polyester 50% with cotton or nylon 20%. Blends help to create

840-511: The term Far East has widely fallen out of use and been substituted by Asia–Pacific , while the terms Middle East and Near East , although now pertaining to different territories, are still commonly used today. The term first came into use in European geopolitical discourse in the 15th century, particularly the British , denoting the Far East as the "farthest" of the three "Easts", beyond

870-407: The term evokes cultural as well as geographic separation; the Far East is not just geographically distant, but also culturally exotic. It never refers, for instance, to the culturally Western nations of Australia and New Zealand, which lie even farther to the east of Europe than East Asia itself. This combination of cultural and geographic subjectivity was well illustrated in 1939 by Robert Menzies ,

900-711: Was also woven. Hollins also produced the related Dayella cloth used especially for babies' clothes. The name Viyella is based on the unusually-named valley road, Via Gellia (the A5012 ) near Matlock , where in 1890 Hollins & Co acquired a mill used for the early production of Viyella. Hollins had started business in 1784 in Pleasley , about 20 miles away on the Derbyshire / Nottinghamshire border. Later their offices were at Viyella House in Nottingham . After

#570429