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64-759: The Columbia Mountains are made up of four large ranges containing many subranges: Additionally lower areas to the west of the main ranges are sometimes included in the description of the Cariboo Mountains: Some classification systems end the Columbia Mountains at the North Thompson River , such that the Cariboo Mountains are assigned to the Interior Plateau . Where the Columbia Mountains meet

128-524: A mini-replica of the much larger rapid on the Fraser downstream from the mouth of the Thompson. About 17.4 kilometres (10.8 mi) upstream from the small town of Avola , the river is forced through a narrow chute only about 30 feet (9.1 m) wide creating a rapid that resembles the Fraser's famous rapid. At Kamloops, the combined Thompson River flows 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) from the confluence of

192-508: A quartz ledge on a tributary of it which appears to be very rich in silver." The Cariboo Sentinel of Barkerville commented on October 13, 1869: "About forty Chinamen are working the bench by shooting the gravel down to the Clearwater River, and are making from $ 4 to $ 9 a day. With proper water works this bench would yield a large amount of gold, and its extent offers employment to hundreds of miners." Neither of these reports suggests

256-422: A railway line could be got through it without a tunnel of considerable length, but this route would shorten the line so much that it is well worth consideration." In 1874, the railway dispatched a survey party to explore the headwaters of the Clearwater River, under the leadership of E.W. Jarvis. The altitude of the pass was calculated at 2,130 m (6,988 ft) (actually only 1,800 m (5,906 ft)) and

320-534: A range of mountains to the northeast of Quesnelle Lake , and nearly due east of the latter it expands into a lake, which can be reached by a pass...said to be easy and not very high. There is the short space between Clearwater lake and the north fork of the North Thompson River, about which I can get no information....This is undoubtedly part of the Selkirk Range, and I have no expectation that

384-472: Is assessing the repairs and the cost is well over $ 1 million. The road will remain closed to vehicles for the foreseeable future. The Clearwater River supports Kokanee, Chinook salmon, Coho salmon, Sockeye salmon, Rainbow trout, Dolly varden and Mountain white fish. Several thousand Chinook, 200 Sockeye and 500 Coho spawn in the river. Baileys Chute is a good place to view the Chinook as they try to leap

448-712: Is fed by the Little River , which drains Shuswap Lake , which is fed by several rivers and creeks. The North Thompson originates at the toe of the Thompson Glacier in the Cariboo Mountains west of the community of Valemount and flows generally south towards Kamloops and the confluence with the South Thompson. For most of its length, the river is paralleled by Highway 5 , and the Canadian National Railway (both of which cross

512-579: Is now the Columbia River drainage. This flow direction was influenced by large ice buildups in the Thompson valley, which created extensive glacial lakes . Two large glacial lakes, Glacial Lake Thompson and Glacial Lake Deadman, occupied much of the modern river's course from 13,000 BCE to 10,000 BCE. These deep, narrow, ribbon-shaped lakes held large volumes of water; Glacial Lake Thompson held nearly 84 cubic kilometres (20 cu mi) at its highest point. The lake stretched from Spences Bridge in

576-491: Is popular for fly fishing , whitewater kayaking , whitewater rafting , hiking, and wildlife viewing. The Overlanders expedition to the Cariboo goldfields rafted down the North Thompson River in 1862. When they arrived at the mouth of the Clearwater River, they noted its distinct clarity compared to the muddy North Thompson and named it Clear Water. In 1863, the first tourists, Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle , traveled through

640-475: Is rated as 4+. The Horseshoe is the longest stretch of calm water on the entire Clearwater River. Taking out at Deer Creek is critical because downstream is the start of 10 km (6 mi) of rapids, culminating in Gatling Gorge and Helmcken Canyon. Canoeing. The only safe section for canoeists downstream from Clearwater Lake is around The Horseshoe meander bend. There is a put-in at Alice Creek and

704-627: The Adams River , the Thompson has one of the largest sockeye salmon runs in the world. Pink salmon spawn mostly below Kamloops Lake, while coho spawning beds are found in 40 of the Thompson watershed's streams and rivers. Coastal rainbow trout ( Oncorhynchus mykiss irideus ), including an anadromous variety called steelhead, are found in the river along with a local strain the Kamloops rainbow trout which occurs in Kamloops Lake at

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768-905: The Cabinet Mountains and Salish Mountains , which lie south of the Purcells between the Kootenai River and the Clark Fork of the Columbia , but in US classification systems they are generally considered to be part of the Rocky Mountains. Physiographically, they are a distinct province of the larger Rocky Mountain System physiographic division. The following mountains are the 10 highest mountains (in order) contained within

832-666: The Cariboo region , eventually entering what is the modern-day Peace River drainage basin and ending up in the Arctic Ocean . This flow direction is estimated to have ended approximately 2 million years ago, as the Pleistocene era of heavy glaciation began. During the era of massive glaciers in the Thompson River valley, water from the area likely drained eastward, through the Shuswap Lake area into what

896-664: The Interior Plateau there are intermediary areas known as highlands - the Quesnel Highland (west flank of the Cariboos ), the Shuswap Highland (south of the Cariboos and west of the northern Monashees ), and the Okanagan Highland (west of the southern Monashees ). These are listed here but are often considered to be part of the Interior Plateau . Some geographic classifications also include

960-510: The North Thompson River . The river is home to several varieties of Pacific salmon and trout. The area's geological history was heavily influenced by glaciation, and the several large glacial lakes have filled the river valley over the last 12,000 years. Archaeological evidence shows human habitation in the watershed dating back at least 8,300 years. The Thompson was named by Fraser River explorer, Simon Fraser , in honour of his friend, Columbia Basin explorer David Thompson . Recreational use of

1024-628: The Salish Sea , more than 250 kilometres (160 mi) away. From this point, the Thompson waters stopped flowing eastward into the Columbia River system, and the river became a tributary of the Fraser. Because of large deposits of glacial silt, sand, and gravel in the lower Thompson River valley, large landslides are common. The area downstream from the town of Ashcroft is prone to landslide events; eight major events between 1880 and 1982 have been recorded. Several of them have obstructed

1088-595: The 1970s, based out of Spences Bridge. Notable whitewater features on the lower river include the Frog, named for a frog-shaped rock formation, and the Jaws of Death, named by CPR engineers. Rapids on the river reach up to Class 5 on the International Scale of River Difficulty . Clearwater River (British Columbia) The Clearwater River is the largest tributary of the North Thompson River , joining it at

1152-639: The British Columbia Fish Protection Act of 1997, the Thompson cannot be considered for future dam construction. Conservation of the Thompson's fisheries, especially its salmon population, has been a focus of provincial, federal, and international bodies, such as the Department of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO) and the Pacific Salmon Commission . From the 1950s through the early 1990s the Thompson River

1216-879: The Canadian Pacific Railway and the Canadian National Railway. From Ashcroft to Lytton, the river is completely confined within Thompson Canyon, making for spectacular scenery. The Thompson River joins the Fraser River in Lytton. There is a striking stretch of dark black cliffside just downstream from Ashcroft and visible from the Logan Lake-Ashcroft highway is officially named the Black Canyon. Just below

1280-539: The Clearwater River Road was built along the west bank, the river became easily accessible and was quickly fished out. The McDiarmids closed Trophies Lodge and their fishing camps in 1970. The Clearwater River remained almost devoid of fish for the next 30 years. An assessment in 1992 showed that the river downstream from the Mahood confluence had far fewer fish than upstream, proving the serious effect of

1344-539: The Clearwater River Road washout in 2020 has prevented access to the river further upstream. Interior Whitewater Expeditions has been on the river for over 25 years. Other companies are Liquid Lifestyles and Riverside Adventures. Kayaking requires expert skills for many sections of the river. Kayakers who are unfamiliar with the river should try it first at low to medium flows in July, August and September. The Clearwater River Road provides access to 11 km (7 mi) of

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1408-527: The Clearwater River Road. In 1994, new regulations came into effect which called for catch and release, a bait ban, a single barbless hook, and no fishing prior to July 15 each year. Another 10 years passed before the fishing improved and the regulations were relaxed a little around 2015. These rules apply only to the Clearwater River downstream from Clearwater Lake. Whitewater rafting is offered by three companies, all operating in Granite Canyon since

1472-546: The Clearwater River because there was no arable land. The closest one belonged to John Ray who arrived in 1911 and settled about 55 km (34 mi) up the Clearwater Valley from the North Thompson River. His nearest neighbour, Michael Majerus, was 16 km (10 mi) away. Ray cleared land and became nearly self-sufficient, making trips west to 100 Mile House only once or twice a year to pick up some supplies and trade his furs. He lived alone until 1932, then, at

1536-523: The Clearwater River for 38 km (23.6 mi) to the confluence with the Mahood River. This road is seldom out of sight of the Clearwater River and can even be closed in May or June due to high water. This road is usually maintained by its users and is rough and slow. A high clearance vehicle is recommended. The Kettle, a major rapid, is reached by an unsigned trail at km 8.0. Sabre Tooth Rapids are below

1600-463: The Clearwater River or at least 4 km (2.5 mi) east of it, so river access is only by hiking trails. This road is paved to Helmcken Falls, then gravel in good condition for the remaining distance to Clearwater Lake. Trails to the river from Clearwater Valley Road (distances from Yellowhead Highway) Clearwater River Road starts in Clearwater and extends north along the west bank of

1664-471: The Clearwater River was probably provided by H.R. Bellamy of Nelson in 1899: "I believe that all the streams from the west, flowing into the North Thompson River have brought down more or less gold, especially the Clearwater...This river has no doubt brought down vast quantities of gold and deposited it along the bed of the Thompson..." By the 1920s, much of Hobson Creek and the Clearwater River above Hobson Lake had been staked and active mining or hydraulicking

1728-433: The Clearwater River. Hobson Lake is 35 km (22 mi) long and averages 1.5 km (0.9 mi) wide. Clearwater Lake is 24 km (15 mi) long and averages 2 km (1.2 mi) wide. The Clearwater's largest tributaries are (from source to mouth) Hobson Creek, Goat Creek, Lickskillet Creek, Azure River, Falls Creek, Murtle River , Mahood River , Hemp Creek, Grouse Creek, and Spahats Creek . The river

1792-402: The Clearwater becomes navigable. Then it sweeps through two 90-degree bends in the next 2.9 km (1.8 mi) and enters Clearwater Lake. East of Clearwater Lake are Zodiac Mountain, Azure Mountain and Mount Ray, the last being a volcano that erupted about 20,000 years ago. The second half of the Clearwater River is mainly influenced by volcanic activity, so lava plateaus and lava cliffs hem

1856-723: The Columbian Mountains: "Columbia Mountains" . Peakbagger.com . The following passes are located within or on the perimeter of the Columbia Mountains: Thompson River The Thompson River is the largest tributary of the Fraser River , flowing through the south-central portion of British Columbia , Canada. The Thompson River has two main branches, the South Thompson River and

1920-698: The North Thompson Valley and solidified the Clearwater River name by publishing it in their journal, The Northwest Passage by Land (London, 1865) . The Clearwater River starts as a typical silt-laden glacial stream, then flows into Hobson Lake which acts as a huge settling basin for the glacial material. Clearwater Lake downstream continues the silt removing process. Three major tributaries all have large lakes on them as well: Azure River with Azure Lake , Murtle River with Murtle Lake , and Mahood River with Canim Lake and Mahood Lake . The North Thompson River, by contrast, has no lakes on it so silt from

1984-528: The North Thompson has been sparse, but artifacts near Bridge Lake to the west of the river have been dated to 3000 BCE, while pieces found near the tributary Clearwater River are possibly as old as 6000 to 7000 BCE. Explorer of the Fraser River and North West Company employee Simon Fraser named the river, after passing its mouth on the Fraser in 1808. He named the river after his colleague, David Thompson , who had mapped much of western Canada and

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2048-528: The North and South Thompson Rivers before reaching Kamloops Lake , which is roughly 30 kilometres (19 mi) in length, ending at the town of Savona . From there it flows in a meandering course westwards through a broad valley area. At Ashcroft , the Thompson Canyon begins and the river turns southwestward to its confluence with the Fraser. The river is paralleled by the Trans-Canada Highway,

2112-568: The Park's second highest at 2,930 m (9,613 ft); Mount Pierrway, #5 at 2,854 m (9,364 ft); Mount Winder, #9 at 2,767 m (9,078 ft); Mount Beaman, Mount Hogg and Mount Aves. All six were named in 1966 in honour of Canadian soldiers from the Quesnel area killed in action during World War II. The first 30 km (19 mi) of the Clearwater is through a broad U-shaped glacial valley before it enters Hobson Lake. Mountains along

2176-520: The Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada ( COSEWIC ), for Canada's Species At Risk Act (SARA) protections. The river is subject to catch and release angling only for steelhead and has severely restricted seasons to protect the wild stocks of remaining steelhead. The rapids of the lower Thompson are used for recreational whitewater rafting . The first commercial rafting operation on the river began in

2240-678: The Thompson Glacier at its origin as well as its glacial tributaries is carried the whole length of the river. The Overlanders bestowed only two place names during their perilous journey on the North Thompson River: Clear Water River and Raft Peak above the town of Clearwater. On August 20, 1866, the B.C. Tribune , published in Yale, reported: "...a party of prospectors which went up the Clear Water River about fifty miles, early this season, discovered

2304-434: The Thompson River headwaters and other nearby lakes. Other fish species include round whitefish , largescale sucker , bridgelip sucker , northern pikeminnow , longnose dace , and slimy sculpin . Several bird species are found in Thompson River environments, including osprey , merganser , wood ducks , and American dippers . Golden eagles are found near the confluence with the Fraser, and Bald eagles congregate on

2368-480: The Yellowhead Highway in Clearwater and extends north along the east side of the Clearwater Valley for 68 km (42 mi) to Clearwater Lake . Almost all Wells Gray Park's tourists drive this road as the major attractions such as Spahats Falls, Trophy Mountain, Helmcken Falls and Clearwater Lake are reached by this route. However, during the first 49 km (30 mi) this road is either high above

2432-544: The age of 54, he married Alice Ludtke, age 20. They raised three children on this remote homestead. In 1946, they decided to move to Clearwater so the children could be educated in a school. It took many trips to move homes and John did not return from his last one in December 1947. Some friends trekked into the remote farm and found that John had died of a heart attack there. Today, the Ray Farm buildings are deteriorating and

2496-508: The community of Clearwater, British Columbia . The Clearwater rises from glaciers in the Cariboo Mountains and flows in a mostly southerly direction for 201 km (125 mi) to the North Thompson. Its entire course, except the last 5 km (3 mi), is within Wells Gray Provincial Park . Its confluence with the North Thompson is protected by North Thompson River Provincial Park . There are two large lakes on

2560-751: The continental ice sheets of the last ice age . The ice moved out of the Thompson River region approximately 11,000 BCE, and migration by the ancestors of the Nlaka'pamux and Secwepemc people is thought to have occurred soon after. Some of the older archaeological sites on the lower Thompson include the Drynoch Slide site, near Spences Bridge, with artifacts dating to about 7350 BCE, and the Landels site, near Ashcroft, which dates to older than 8000 BCE. Archaeologists theorize early settlers lived in small groups, beginning with nomadic bands hunting ungulates on

2624-519: The east shore of Hobson Lake include Twin Spires; Mount Hugh Neave , seventh highest in the Park at 2,829 m (9,281 ft); and Garnet Peak , third highest at 2,876 m (9,436 ft). Below Hobson Lake, the Clearwater drops over a series of low waterfalls and many rapids, descending 178 m (584 ft) in the next 12 km (7 mi). At the inflow of the Azure River from the east,

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2688-509: The falls from mid-August through September. They are the largest of the Pacific salmon, weighing from 8 kg to 22 kg. Most spawn near The Horseshoe after a life cycle of four to six years. The Clearwater River was famous for its fabulous fishing starting in the 1940s. The McDiarmid family built four fishing camps along the east bank between Grouse Creek and the Mahood River. In 1950, they started construction of Trophies Lodge, named for

2752-488: The fertile benches of the river, and a North West Company trading fort at the confluence of the North and South rivers became the city of Kamloops , now the largest human population center in the watershed. The Thompson River supports 24 fish species, including two considered endangered. It also hosts carp , which are not native to the watershed. The river is home to large populations of Pacific salmon , including coho , sockeye , pink and chinook . Through its tributary,

2816-448: The fish, as headquarters for this operation. During the 1950s and 1960s, they hosted many anglers who came from around the world to experience the Clearwater. The guestbook for Trophies Lodge contains distinguished names such as Vanderbilts, DuPonts, H.R. MacMillan (who came twice a year), and even semi-royalty in the person of Wallis Simpson . According to Mac McDiarmid, the proprietor, fish up to four pounds were always thrown back. After

2880-528: The house has collapsed. B.C. Parks has no funds for restoration, but the trail is in good condition and some interpretive signage has been installed. The first half of the Clearwater River's course is among the peaks of the Cariboo Mountains and deep, glacially-carved valleys are typical. The source of the Clearwater is near the northern boundary of Wells Gray Park. The river pours out of an unnamed glacier, surrounded by peaks such as Mount Goodall ,

2944-573: The more dramatic white-water sections are Gatling Gorge, Helmcken Canyon, Sabre Tooth Rapids, Batholith Rapids, The Kettle, and Granite Canyon. The only extended section of calm water is called The Horseshoe, a 5 km (3 mi) long meander where the river almost inscribes a complete circle. Three mountains rise east of the Clearwater River: Battle Mountain , Trophy Mountain and Raft Mountain . Clearwater Valley Road (commonly called Wells Gray Park Road) starts at

3008-490: The nearby glacier. Between 1872 and 1881, about 20 survey parties fanned out across British Columbia trying to find the best route for the new railway between Yellowhead Pass in the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Coast. Three survey parties visited what is now Wells Gray Park. In 1873, Marcus Smith, searching for the ideal route to Bute Inlet, visited Hobson Lake and wrote in his diary: "The Clearwater River rises in

3072-485: The plateaus around the river, who then established more permanent dwellings along the river benches as their fishing techniques developed. The South Thompson has the watershed's oldest dated evidence of human habitation, at the Gore site near Pritchard . The human remains date to 8250 BCE, and bone analysis suggests the person was a hunter with small amounts of his protein coming from salmon. Archaeological investigation in

3136-467: The river a couple times). The North Thompson passes by several small communities, the most notable being Blue River , Clearwater & Barriere . The North Thompson picks up the Clearwater River at the town of Clearwater. The Clearwater, the North Thompson's largest tributary, drains much of Wells Gray Provincial Park . A notable feature along the North Thompson is Little Hells Gate ,

3200-521: The river are within provincial parks , including Steelhead , Juniper , Goldpan , and North Thompson Provincial Parks . Some of its tributaries, such as the Clearwater , are more protected through large parks like Wells Gray . However, unlike major river systems to the north and east like the Columbia and Nechako , the Thompson has no hydroelectric dams or major man-made water diversions. Under

3264-510: The river during the salmon run. Trumpeter swans use the South Thompson on their migratory route. Rattlesnakes are found in the dry sagebrush regions of the lower river. Aquatic insects found in the river system are dominated by three groups: mayflies , midges , and caddisflies . Many of these species emerge with the spring snowmelt, which greatly increases the volume of flow on the river. The Thompson River and its two branches are mostly unprotected through parks or reserves. Small sections of

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3328-557: The river includes whitewater rafting and angling. The South Thompson originates at the outlet of Little Shuswap Lake at the town of Chase and flows approximately 55 kilometres (34 mi) southwest through a wide valley to Kamloops where it joins the North Thompson. Highway 1 , the Trans-Canada Highway and the mainline of the Canadian Pacific Railway parallel the river. Little Shuswap Lake

3392-405: The river, and caused large, temporary lakes. An 1880 slide caused the formation of a short-lived lake over 14 kilometers long with a maximum depth of 18 meters. These slides have caused major damage to the rail lines and farming operations in the river valley. Heavy irrigation has been blamed for some of the events. The Interior region of British Columbia was first populated after the retreat of

3456-455: The river. Clearwater Lake was dammed by lava from an eruption called Dragon's Tongue about 8,500 years ago. Today, the river drops directly out of Clearwater Lake over 3 m (10 ft) high Osprey Falls which creates hazardous boating conditions at the lake's outlet. For the next 65 km (40 mi), the Clearwater races through one rapid after another and over three more waterfalls, Myanth Falls, Marcus Falls and Baileys Chute . Some of

3520-474: The river. The 8 km (5 mi) run through Granite Canyon is the most exciting section. Only a few expert kayakers have gone through The Kettle, rated at 6+. Many parts of the Clearwater River between Clearwater Lake and Deer Creek, a river distance of 17 km (11 mi), are accessible from the Clearwater Valley Road. Marcus Falls and Baileys Chute require a portage and Myanth Falls

3584-404: The road at km 21.1. Another unsigned trail starts at km 32.6 and leads to a beach on the river with White Horse Bluff opposite. At the end of the road, a trail leads to Sylvia Falls, 3.5 km up the Mahood River. 2023 update - A major washout in July 2020 has closed the Clearwater River Road at km 11.4. The rest of the road to the Mahood River is accessible by mountain bike or on foot. BC Parks

3648-638: The route skirted an immense glacier before descending to the Raush River, a tributary of the Fraser River — "clearly impracticable for a railway line". When the more southern Kicking Horse Pass was chosen instead in 1881, all the meticulously examined routes in the Clearwater River basin were abandoned. Only three place names in Wells Gray Park recognize those 10 wasted years of surveys: Murtle River & Lake , Mahood River & Lake , and Marcus Falls. No homesteads were ever established beside

3712-457: The specific location of the activities on the Clearwater River and, as mileage calculated in those days was generally inaccurate, the figure given by the B.C. Tribune is practically meaningless. Later reports about hydraulic mining, however, indicate that the Chinese miners were probably working upstream from Hobson Lake. The spark that ignited a flurry of prospecting and mining activity along

3776-490: The town of Spences Bridge was the site of a major rail disaster in the early 20th century. Communities along this section are Bighorn , Shaw Springs, and Goldpan. The Thompson River valley has existed in some form for at least 50 million years; however, for much of its history, it did not drain to the southwest into the Pacific Ocean as it does today. Geologists believe water from the river flowed northward, through

3840-429: The west to the eastern reaches of Shuswap Lake, as well as far up the northern reaches of the North Thompson river valley. The last large glacial lake, Lake Deadman, was drained by a catastrophic ice dam failure, called a jökulhlaup , in about 10,000 BCE. This event released as much as 20 cubic kilometres (4.8 cu mi) of water southwest into the Fraser River system, possibly depositing sediments as far away as

3904-414: Was 16 pounds (7.3 kg). By the late 1990s, steelhead populations began to decline due to a wide variety of adverse environmental conditions and overfishing by commercial and First Nations gill netters. In 2016, annual steelhead numbers entering the Thompson were estimated to be less than 400 fish. Low numbers have prompted conservation organizations and sportsman's associations to petition Committee on

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3968-409: Was at the time exploring the Columbia River basin to the east. Thompson never visited the river that bears his name. The first documented traverse of the Thompson from Kamloops to Lytton was by Hudson's Bay Company governor George Simpson in 1828. More Europeans entered the Thompson River valley in the early to mid 1800s, drawn by the fur trade and small gold rushes . Others started farming on

4032-491: Was considered one of the premier steelhead angling destinations in North America. The river hosted large runs of both summer and winter run anadromous coastal rainbow trout ( Oncorhynchus mykiss irideus ). In the late 1980s the runs were estimated at over 10,000 fish. The river attracted anglers from around the world seeking powerful Thompson River steelhead. In 1982, the average male winter run Thompson River steelhead

4096-419: Was underway. The Blue Ice Mine on Fred Wells Creek, a branch of Hobson Creek, was a unique endeavour. The name aptly described the site, located at an altitude of 2,075 m (6,808 ft), just 60 m (197 ft) away from an active glacier. Although showings of gold and silver were of an economical quantity during a 1938 survey, the site was never fully developed, because of the unpredictable movements of

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