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106-583: In the past, it used to produce non-military equipment, most notably sewing machines and typewriters , but those branches were deemed unprofitable and dropped in 2000. The company was founded in the Second Polish Republic to produce arms for the Polish Armed Forces . In 1925, the main building, steel hardening shop, power plant, boiler room, woodshop, bath, and the workers’ houses were erected. On 31 December 1927, production

212-400: A girth . The most common type is equestrian . However, specialized saddles have been created for oxen , camels and other animals. It is not known precisely when riders first began to use some sort of padding or protection, but a blanket attached by some form of surcingle or girth was probably the first "saddle", followed later by more elaborate padded designs. The solid saddle tree was

318-476: A mining engineer , who made the requisite drawings and submitted a patent application. The patent for his machine was issued on 17 July 1830, and in the same year, he and his partners opened the first machine-based clothing manufacturing company in the world to create army uniforms for the French Army . However, the factory was burned down, reportedly by workers fearful of losing their livelihood, following

424-421: A saddle blanket or pad in order to provide a comfortable fit for the horse. It also has sturdier stirrups and uses a cinch rather than a girth . Its most distinctive feature is the horn on the front of the saddle, originally used to dally a lariat when roping cattle. Other nations such as Australia and Argentina have stock saddles that usually do not have a horn, but have other features commonly seen in

530-730: A sword , spare horse shoes and other equipment. In the US, the McClellan saddle was introduced in the 1850s by George B. McClellan for use by the United States Cavalry , and the core design was used continuously, with some improvements, until the 1940s. Today, the McClellan saddle continues to be used by ceremonial mounted units in the U.S. Army. The basic design that inspired McClellan saw use by military units in several other nations, including Rhodesia and Mexico, and even to

636-509: A German-born engineer working in England, was awarded the first British patent for a mechanical device to aid the art of sewing, in 1755. His invention consisted of a double pointed needle with an eye at one end. In 1790, the English inventor Thomas Saint invented the first sewing machine design. His machine was meant to be used on leather and canvas material. It is likely that Saint had

742-534: A V-shaped arrangement of strap billets on the sideboards for the attachment of the girth. This girthing system could be moved forward or back to obtain an optimum fit on a wide range of horses. From 1902 the Universal Military Saddle was manufactured with a fixed tree, broad panels to spread the load, and initially a front arch in three sizes. The advantage of this saddle was its lightness, ease of repair and comfort for horse and rider. From 1912

848-488: A base of wood with a thin leather covering that frequently has a lacquer finish. Central Asian saddles have no pad and must be ridden with a saddle blanket. The horn comes in particular good use during the rough horseback sport of buskashi , played throughout Central Asia, which involves two teams of riders wrestling over a decapitated goat's carcass. In the Near East, a saddle large enough to carry more than one person

954-429: A case for patent infringement in 1854 and was awarded the right to claim royalties from the manufacturers using ideas covered by his patent, including Singer. Singer had seen a rotary sewing machine being repaired in a Boston shop. As an engineer, he thought it was clumsy and decided to design a better one. The machine he devised used a falling shuttle instead of a rotary one; the needle was mounted vertically and included

1060-445: A clutch motor. It does not make any sound unless the operator hits the pedal on the machine, but it cannot withstand the same kind of use as a clutch motor. Before sewing machines were invented women spent much of their time maintaining their family's clothing. Middle-class housewives, even with the aid of a hired seamstress, would devote several days of each month to this task. It took an experienced seamstress at least 14 hours to make

1166-706: A degree by the British in the Boer War . Military saddles are still produced and are now used in exhibitions, parades and other events. Saddles in Asia date to the time of the Scythians and Cimmerians . Modern Asian saddles can be divided into two groups: those from nomadic Eurasia, which have a prominent horn and leather covering, and those from East Asia, which have a high pommel and cantle. Central Asian saddles are noted for their wide seats and high horns. The saddle has

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1272-428: A diminished role in household management , and allowed more hours for their own leisure as well as the ability to seek more employment. Industrial use of sewing machines further reduced the burden placed upon housewives, moving clothing production from housewives and seamstresses to large-scale factories . The movement to large-scale factories resulted in a great increase in productivity; fewer workers could produce

1378-447: A dress shirt for a man; a woman's dress took 10 hours; and a pair of summer trousers took nearly three hours. Most people except the very well-off would have only two sets of clothing: a work outfit and a Sunday outfit. Sewing machines reduced the time for making a dress shirt to an hour and 15 minutes; the time to make a dress to an hour; and the time for a pair of summer pants to 38 minutes. This reduced labor resulted in women having

1484-557: A farmer from Raphine in Rockbridge County, Virginia, patented the first chain stitch single-thread sewing machine on June 2, 1857. In partnership with James Willcox, Gibbs became a principal partner in Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company. Willcox & Gibbs commercial sewing machines are still used in the 21st century, with spares parts available. William Jones started making sewing machines in 1859 and in 1860 formed

1590-464: A late date of 1854. In 1842, John Greenough patented the first sewing machine in the United States. The British partners Newton and Archibold introduced the eye-pointed needle and the use of two pressing surfaces to keep the pieces of fabric in position, in 1841. The first machine to combine all the disparate elements of the previous half-century of innovation into the modern sewing machine was

1696-428: A later invention, and though early stirrup designs predated the invention of the solid tree, the paired stirrup, which attached to the tree, was the last element of the saddle to reach the basic form that is still used today. Today, modern saddles come in a wide variety of styles, each designed for a specific equestrianism discipline, and require careful fit to both the rider and the horse. Proper saddle care can extend

1802-618: A leather covering. Japanese saddles are classified as Chinese-style ( karagura ) or Japanese-style ( yamatogura ). In the Nara period the Chinese style was adopted. Gradually the Japanese changed the saddle to suit their needs, and in the Heian period , the saddle typically associated with the samurai class was developed. These saddles, known as kura , were lacquered as protection from

1908-505: A lockstitch can be formed anywhere on the material being sewn; it does not need to be near an edge. Overlock, also known as "serging" or "serger stitch", can be formed with two to four threads, one or two needles, and one or two loopers. Overlock sewing machines are usually equipped with knives that trim or create the edge immediately in front of the stitch formation. Household and industrial overlock machines are commonly used for garment seams in knit or stretchy fabrics, for garment seams where

2014-434: A man's shirt in about one hour, compared to 14 + 1 ⁄ 2 hours by hand. In 1877, the world's first crochet machine was invented and patented by Joseph M. Merrow , then-president of what had started in the 1840s, as a machine shop to develop specialized machinery for the knitting operations. This crochet machine was the first production overlock sewing machine. The Merrow Machine Company went on to become one of

2120-665: A partnership with Thomas Chadwick. As Chadwick & Jones , they manufactured sewing machines at Ashton-under-Lyne , England until 1863. Their machines used designs from Howe and Wilson produced under licence. Thomas Chadwick later joined Bradbury & Co. William Jones opened a factory in Guide Bridge , Manchester in 1869. In 1893 a Jones advertising sheet claimed that this factory was the "Largest Factory in England Exclusively Making First Class Sewing Machines". The firm

2226-571: A pommel and cantle with detachable bone/horn/hardened leather facings, leather thongs, a crupper , breastplate , and a felt shabrack adorned with animal motifs. These were located in Pazyryk burials finds. These saddles, found in the Ukok Plateau , Siberia were dated to 500-400 BC. Iconographic evidence of a predecessor to the modern saddle has been found in the art of the ancient Armenians , Assyrians , and steppe nomads depicted on

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2332-546: A presser foot to hold the cloth in place. It had a fixed arm to hold the needle and included a basic tension system. This machine combined elements of Thimonnier, Hunt and Howe's machines. Singer was granted an American patent in 1851. The foot treadle used since the Middle Ages, used to convert reciprocating to rotary motion, was adapted to drive the sewing machine, leaving both hands free. When Howe learned of Singer's machine he took him to court, where Howe won and Singer

2438-417: A problem, as shorter trees are most often on saddles made for children, though a short tree with an unbalanced adult rider may create abnormal pressure points. While a horse's back can be measured for size and shape, the saddle must be tried on the individual animal to assure proper fit. Saddle blankets or pads can provide assistance to correct minor fit problems, as well as provide comfort and protection to

2544-512: A properly conditioned horse and rider. British Universal Pattern military saddles were used by the mounted forces from Australia, Britain, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa . The Steel Arch Universal Pattern Mark I was issued in 1891. This was found to irritate riders and in 1893 it was discontinued in favour of the Mark II . In 1898, the Mark III appeared, which had the addition of

2650-480: A short arc, which was an improvement over Singer and Howe's. However, John Bradshaw had patented a similar device and threatened to sue, so Wilson decided to try a new method. He went into partnership with Nathaniel Wheeler to produce a machine with a rotary hook instead of a shuttle. This was far quieter and smoother than other methods, with the result that the Wheeler & Wilson Company produced more machines in

2756-406: A single dedicated task and are capable of continuous use for long periods; they have larger moving parts and larger motors rated for continuous operation. Parts for different industrial machines, such as motors, sewing feet, and bobbins may be interchangeable, but this is not always so. The motors on industrial machines, as with most of their components, lights, etc., are separate, usually mounted to

2862-532: A solid tree nor stirrups, these early treeless saddles and pads provided protection and comfort to the rider, with a slight increase in security. The Sarmatians also used a padded treeless early saddle, possibly as early as the seventh century BC and ancient Greek artworks of Alexander the Great of Macedon depict a saddle cloth. The Greeks called the saddlecloth or pad, ephippium (ἐφίππιον or ἐφίππειον). Early solid-treed saddles were made of felt that covered

2968-417: A tension regulator. If the stitch is too saggy or too tight, the most likely cause is a tension problem. There are mainly two types of sewing machines available: industrial and domestic. Industrial sewing machines are larger, faster, and more varied in their size, cost, appearance, and task. An industrial sewing machine can handle heavy-duty sewing jobs. Industrial machines, unlike domestic machines, perform

3074-408: A western saddle, including a deep seat, high cantle, and heavier leather. The tree of a western saddle is the most critical component, defining the size and shape of the finished product. The tree determines both the width and length of the saddle as it sits on the back of the horse, as well as the length of the seat for the rider, width of the swells (pommel), height of cantle, and, usually, shape of

3180-764: A wooden frame. Chinese saddles are depicted among the cavalry horses in the Terracotta Army of the Qin dynasty , completed by 206 BC. Asian designs proliferated during China 's Han dynasty around approximately 200 BC. One of the earliest solid-treed saddles in the Western world was the "four horn" design, first used by the Romans as early as the 1st century BC. Neither design had stirrups. Recent archeological finds in Mongolia (e.g. Urd Ulaan Uneet site) suggest that

3286-419: A working model, but there is no surviving evidence of one. He was a skilled cabinet maker and his device included many practical and functional features: an overhanging arm; a feed mechanism (adequate for short lengths of leather); a vertical needle bar; and a looper. Saint created the machine to reduce the amount of hand-stitching on garments, making sewing more reliable and functional. His sewing machine used

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3392-432: Is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread . Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790, the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of

3498-435: Is a vital rule for fitting that no damage should occur to the horse's skin and no injury should be presented to any muscular or neural tissues beneath the saddle. Width of the saddle is the primary means by which a saddle is measured and fitted to a horse, though length of the tree and proper balance must also be considered. The gullet of a saddle must clear the withers of the horse, but yet must not be so narrow as to pinch

3604-409: Is an art and in ideal circumstances is performed by a professional saddle maker or saddle fitter. Custom-made saddles designed for an individual horse and rider will fit the best, but are also the most expensive. However, many manufactured saddles provide a decent fit if properly selected, and some minor adjustments can be made. The definition of a fitting saddle is still controversial; however, there

3710-458: Is called a howdah which is fitted on elephants. Some of the largest examples of a saddle, elaborate howdah were used in warfare outfitted with weaponry, and alternatively for monarchs, maharajahs, and sultans. Saddles from East Asia differ from Central Asian saddles by their high pommel and cantle and lack of a horn. East Asian saddles can be divided into several types that are associated with certain nationalities and ethnic groups. Saddles used by

3816-510: Is considerable friction across the center line of a horse's back. The stirrup was one of the milestones in saddle development. The first stirrup-like object was invented in India in the 2nd century BC, and consisted of a simple leather strap in which the rider's toe was placed. It offered very little support, however. Mongolic Rouran tribes in Mongolia are thought to have been the inventors of

3922-416: Is controlled by a cam . As the cam rotates, a fingerlike follower that is connected to the needle bar rides along the cam and tracks its indentations. As the follower moves in and out, the needle bar is moved from side to side. Very old sewing machines lack this hardware and so cannot natively produce a zigzag stitch, but there are often shank-driven attachments available which enable them to do so. Besides

4028-455: Is evidence, though disputed, that humans first began riding the horse not long after domestication , possibly as early as 4000 BC. The earliest saddle known thus far was discovered inside a woman's tomb in the Turpan basin , in what is now Xinjiang , China , dating to between 727–396 BC. The saddle is made of cushioned cow hide, and shows signs of usage and repair. The tomb is associated with

4134-454: Is its flatter appearance, the lack of a horn, and the self-padding design of the panels : a pair of pads attached to the underside of the seat and filled with wool, foam, or air. However, the length and angle of the flaps, the depth of the seat and height of the cantle all play a role in the use for which a particular saddle is intended. The "tree" that underlies the saddle is usually one of the defining features of saddle quality. Traditionally,

4240-415: Is known as a "safety stitch". A similar machine used for stretch fabrics is called a mock safety . Coverstitch is formed by two or more needles and one or two loopers. Like lockstitch and chainstitch, coverstitch can be formed anywhere on the material being sewn. One looper manipulates a thread below the material being sewn, forming a bottom cover stitch against the needle threads. An additional looper above

4346-401: Is pushed up through slots in the machine surface, then dragged horizontally past the needle. The dogs are serrated to grip the material, and a "presser foot" is used to keep the material in contact with the dogs. At the end of their horizontal motion, the dogs are lowered again and returned to their original position while the needle makes its next pass through the material. While the needle is in

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4452-449: Is very common on industrial two needle machines. Most household machines do not use needle feed. A walking foot replaces the stationary presser foot with one that moves along with whatever other feed mechanisms the machine already has. As the walking foot moves, it shifts the workpiece along with it. It is most useful for sewing heavy materials where needle feed is mechanically inadequate, for spongy or cushioned materials where lifting

4558-735: The Australian stock saddle . In Asia and throughout the world, there are numerous saddles of unique designs used by various nationalities and ethnic groups. English saddles are used for English riding throughout the world, not just in England or English-speaking countries. They are the saddles used in all of the Olympic equestrian disciplines. The term English saddle encompasses several different styles of saddle, including those used for eventing , show jumping and hunt seat , dressage , saddle seat , horse racing , horse surfing and polo . The major distinguishing feature of an English saddle

4664-685: The Han Chinese are noted by their use of inlay work for ornamentation. Tibetan saddles typically employ iron covers inlaid with precious metals on the pommel and cantle and universally come with padding. Mongolian saddles are similar to the Tibetan style except that they are typically smaller and the seat has a high ridge. Saddles from ethnic minority groups in China's southwest, such as in Sichuan and Yunnan provinces, have colorful lacquer work over

4770-745: The UK Patent Office , made adjustments to the looper, and built a working machine, currently owned by the Science Museum in London . In 1804, a sewing machine was built by two Englishmen, Thomas Stone and James Henderson, and a machine for embroidering was constructed by John Duncan in Scotland. An Austrian tailor, Josef Madersperger , began developing his first sewing machine in 1807 and presented his first working machine publicly in 1814. Having received financial support from his government,

4876-513: The Vis pistol (pistolet wz. 35 Vis) was developed. During World War II , it was captured and operated by the Germans. After World War II, the factory was renamed Zakłady Metalowe im. gen. "Waltera" (General Walter Metal Works). It received the factory code number of 11; to prevent confusion with an earlier Factory #11, the number received a single circle around it to differentiate it. In 1990,

4982-406: The chain stitch method, in which the machine uses a single thread to make simple stitches in the fabric. A stitching awl would have pierced the material, and a forked-point rod would have carried the thread through the hole, where it would have been hooked underneath and moved to the next stitching place, after which the cycle would be repeated, thereby locking the stitch in place. Saint's machine

5088-639: The clothing industry . Home sewing machines are designed for one person to sew individual items while using a single stitch type at a time. In a modern sewing machine, the process of stitching has been automated, so that the fabric easily glides in and out of the machine. Early sewing machines were powered by either constantly turning a flywheel handle or with a foot-operated treadle mechanism. Electrically-powered machines were later introduced. Industrial sewing machines, by contrast to domestic machines, are larger, faster, and more varied in their size, cost , appearance, and tasks. Charles Fredrick Wiesenthal ,

5194-406: The 1850s and 1860s than any other manufacturer. Wilson also invented the four-motion feed mechanism that is still used on every sewing machine today. This had a forward, down, back and up motion, which drew the cloth through in an even and smooth motion. Charles Miller patented the first machine to stitch buttonholes . Throughout the 1850s more and more companies were being formed, each trying to sue

5300-409: The 18th century, fox hunting became increasingly popular in England. The high-cantle, high-pommel design of earlier saddles became a hindrance, unsafe and uncomfortable for riders as they jumped. Due to this fact, Guérinière's saddle design which included a low pommel and cantle and allowed for more freedom of movement for both horse and rider, became increasingly popular throughout northern Europe. In

5406-476: The 20th century. Sewing machines continued being made to roughly the same design—with more lavish decoration—until well into the 1900s. The first electric machines were developed by Singer Sewing Co. and introduced in 1889. By the end of the First World War , Singer was offering hand, treadle and electric machines for sale. At first, the electric machines were standard machines with a motor strapped on

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5512-735: The Assyrian stone relief carvings from the time of Ashurnasirpal II . Some of the earliest saddle-like equipment were fringed cloths or pads used by Assyrian cavalry around 700 BC. These were held on with a girth or surcingle that included breast straps and cruppers . From the earliest depictions, saddles became status symbols . To show off an individual's wealth and status, embellishments were added to saddles, including elaborate sewing and leather work, precious metals such as gold, carvings of wood and horn, and other ornamentation. The Scythians also developed an early saddle that included padding and decorative embellishments. Though they had neither

5618-460: The Austrian tailor worked on the development of his machine until 1839, when he built a machine imitating the weaving process using the chain stitch. The first practical and widely used sewing machine was invented by Barthélemy Thimonnier , a French tailor, in 1829. His machine sewed straight seams using a chain stitch like Saint's model had, and in 1830, he signed a contract with Auguste Ferrand,

5724-630: The Mongolic Rouran tribes had sophisticated, wooden frame saddles as early as the 3rd century AD. The wooden frame saddle found at the Urd Ulaan Uneet site in Mongolia is one of the earliest examples found in Central and East Asia. The development of the solid saddle tree was significant; it raised the rider above the horse's back, and distributed the rider's weight on either side of the animal's spine instead of pinpointing pressure at

5830-628: The Subeixi Culture, which is associated with the Jushi Kingdom described in later Chinese sources. The Subeixi people had contact with Scythians, and share a similar material culture with the Pazyryk culture , where later saddles were found. Eurasian and Northern Asian nomads on the Mongolian plateau developed an early form of saddle with a rudimentary frame, which included two parallel leather cushions, with girth attached to them,

5936-426: The basic motion of needles, loopers and bobbins , the material being sewn must move so that each cycle of needle motion involves a different part of the material. This motion is known as feed, and sewing machines have almost as many ways of feeding material as they do of forming stitches. For general categories, there are: drop feed, needle feed, walking foot, puller, and manual. Often, multiple types of feed are used on

6042-449: The basic sewing machine. Their action must be synchronized with the needle and feed action built into the machine to avoid damaging the machine. Pullers are also limited to straight seams, or very nearly so. Despite their additional cost and limitations, pulling feeds are very useful when making large heavy items like tents and vehicle covers. A manual feed is used primarily in freehand embroidery, quilting, and shoe repair. With manual feed,

6148-555: The benefits of the patent. Elias Howe, born in Spencer, Massachusetts, created his sewing machine in 1845, using a similar method to Fisher's except that the fabric was held vertically. An important improvement on his machine was to have the needle running away from the point, starting from the eye. After a lengthy stay in England trying to attract interest in his machine, he returned to America to find various people infringing his patent, among them Isaac Merritt Singer. He eventually won

6254-463: The device built by English inventor John Fisher in 1844, a little earlier than the very similar machines built by Isaac Merritt Singer in 1851, and the lesser known Elias Howe , in 1845. However, due to the botched filing of Fisher's patent at the Patent Office, he did not receive due recognition for the modern sewing machine in the legal disputations of priority with Singer, and Singer reaped

6360-686: The early 20th century, Captain Frederico Caprilli revolutionized the jumping saddle by placing the flap at an angle that allowed a rider to achieve the forward seat necessary for jumping high fences and traveling rapidly across rugged terrain. The modern Western saddle was developed from the Spanish saddles that were brought by the Spanish Conquistadors when they came to the Americas . These saddles were adapted to suit

6466-444: The fabric is light enough that the seam does not need to be pressed open, and for protecting edges against raveling. Machines using two to four threads are most common, and frequently one machine can be configured for several varieties of overlock stitch. Overlock machines with five or more threads usually make both a chainstitch with one needle and one looper, and an overlock stitch with the remaining needles and loopers. This combination

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6572-535: The factory returned to its old name Zakłady Metalowe "Łucznik" (Metal Works "Łucznik"), "łucznik" meaning 'archer'. It became a state-owned company ( SA ). On 13 November 2000, the company was declared bankrupt, however, on 30 June 2000 a company Fabryka Broni "Łucznik" – Radom (Arms Factory Łucznik – Radom) was created by ZM Łucznik and the Industry Development Agency which took over arms production. Sewing machine A sewing machine

6678-400: The feed dogs. Sewing machines use special needles tailored to their needs and to the character of the material being sewn. Modern sewing machines may be equipped with a needle guard. Needle guards are a safety measure that are used to help avoid injuries. Tension in a sewing machine refers to the pull of the thread between the needle and the bobbin. Sewing machines have tension discs and

6784-501: The foot out of contact with the material helps in the feeding action, and for sewing many layers together where a drop feed will cause the lower layers to shift out of position with the upper layers. Some factory machines and a few household machines are set up with an auxiliary puller feed , which grips the material being sewn (usually from behind the needles) and pulls it with a force and reliability usually not possible with other types of feed. Puller feeds are seldom built directly into

6890-437: The horn. Traditional trees were made of wood or wood laminate covered with rawhide and this style is still manufactured today, though modern synthetic materials are also used. The rawhide is stretched and molded around the tree, with minimal padding between the tree and the exterior leather, usually a bit of relatively thin padding on the seat, and a sheepskin cover on the underside of the skirts to prevent chafing and rubbing on

6996-407: The horse's back, but no amount of padding can compensate for a poor-fitting saddle. For example, saddles that are either too wide or too narrow for the horse will cause change in pressure points and ultimately muscle atrophy in the epaxial muscles . The common problems associated with saddle fitting problems are: bridging, ill-fitting headplates and incorrect stuffing of the panels. Depending on

7102-441: The horse's back. The tree must be positioned so that the tree points (English) or bars (Western) do not interfere with the movement of the horse's shoulder. The seat of the saddle must be positioned so that the rider, when riding correctly, is placed over the horse's center of balance . The bars of the saddle must not be so long that they place pressure beyond the last rib of the horse. A too-short tree alone does not usually create

7208-421: The horse. Though a western saddle is often considerably heavier than an English saddle, the tree is designed to spread out the weight of the rider and any equipment the rider may be carrying so that there are fewer pounds per square inch on the horse's back and, when properly fitted, few if any pressure points. Thus, the design, in spite of its weight, can be used for many hours with relatively little discomfort to

7314-450: The integrated spring steel and gullet plate, some without). Synthetic materials vary widely in quality. Polyurethane trees are often very well-made, but some cheap saddles are made with fiberglass trees of limited durability. Synthetic trees are often lighter, more durable, and easier to customize. Some designs are intended to be more flexible and move with the horse. Several companies offer flexible trees or adjustable gullets that allow

7420-403: The issuing of the patent. A model of the machine is exhibited in London at the Science Museum . The machine is made of wood and uses a barbed needle which passes downward through the cloth to grab the thread and pull it up to form a loop to be locked by the next loop. The first American lockstitch sewing machine was invented by Walter Hunt in 1832. His machine used a needle with the eye and

7526-605: The largest American manufacturers of overlock sewing machines and remains in the 21st century as the last American over-lock sewing machine manufacturer. In 1885 Singer patented the Singer Vibrating Shuttle sewing machine, which used Allen B. Wilson's idea for a vibrating shuttle and was a better lockstitcher than the oscillating shuttles of the time. Millions of the machines, perhaps the world's first really practical sewing machine for domestic use, were produced until finally superseded by rotary shuttle machines in

7632-481: The lifespan and increased complexity of the electronic parts, electronic sewing machines do not last as long as mechanical sewing machines, which can last over 100 years. Sewing machines can make a great variety of plain or patterned stitches. Ignoring strictly decorative aspects, over three dozen distinct stitch formations are formally recognized by the ISO 4915:1991 standard, involving one to seven separate threads to form

7738-431: The material can form a top cover stitch simultaneously. The needle threads form parallel rows, while the looper threads cross back and forth all the needle rows. Coverstitch is so-called because the grid of crossing needle and looper threads covers raw seam edges, much as the overlock stitch does. It is widely used in garment construction, particularly for attaching trims and flat seaming where the raw edges can be finished in

7844-423: The material while the needle is in the material. In fact, the needle may be the primary feeding force. Some implementations of needle feed rock the axis of needle motion back and forth, while other implementations keep the axis vertical while moving it forward and back. In both cases, there is no feed action while the needle is out of the material. Needle feed is often used in conjunction with a modified drop feed, and

7950-581: The material, there is no feed action. Almost all household machines and the majority of industrial machines use drop feed. Differential feed is a variation of drop feed with two independent sets of dogs, one before and one after the needle. By changing their relative motions, these sets of dogs can be used to stretch or compress the material in the vicinity of the needle. This is extremely useful when sewing stretchy material, and overlock machines (heavily used for such materials) frequently have differential feed. A needle feed, used only in industrial machines, moves

8056-457: The modern English and Western saddles. One variant of the English saddle was developed by François Robinchon de la Guérinière , a French riding master and author of "Ecole de Cavalerie" who made major contributions to what today is known as classical dressage . He put great emphasis on the proper development of a "three point" seat that is still used today by many dressage riders. In

8162-516: The modern stirrup, but the first dependable representation of a rider with paired stirrups was found in China in a Jin Dynasty tomb of about 302 AD. The stirrup appeared to be in widespread use across China by 477 AD, and later spread to Europe. This invention gave great support for the rider, and was essential in later warfare . Accounts of the cavalry system of the Mali Empire describe

8268-497: The needs of vaqueros and cowboys of Mexico, Texas and California , including the addition of a horn that allowed a lariat to be tied or dallied for the purpose of holding cattle and other livestock. In the Western world there are two basic types of saddles used today for horseback riding , usually called the English saddle and the "stock" saddle. The best known stock saddle is the American western saddle , followed by

8374-604: The others for patent infringement. This triggered a patent thicket known as the Sewing Machine War. In 1856, the Sewing Machine Combination was formed, consisting of Singer, Howe, Wheeler, Wilson, and Grover and Baker. These four companies pooled their patents, with the result that all other manufacturers had to obtain a license for $ 15 per machine. This lasted until 1877 when the last patent expired. James Edward Allen Gibbs (1829–1902),

8480-481: The point on the same end carrying the upper thread, and a falling shuttle carrying the lower thread. The curved needle moved through the fabric horizontally, leaving the loop as it withdrew. The shuttle passed through the loop, interlocking the thread. The feed was unreliable, requiring the machine to be stopped frequently and reset up. Hunt eventually lost interest in his machine and sold individual machines without bothering to patent his invention, and only patenting it at

8586-556: The practice. Public debates surrounding the Contagious Disease Acts of 1864 and 1866 highlighted opposing views. For instance, Lucy Bull, a matron from the Royal Albert Hospital, rejected Acton’s moralistic interpretation and instead attributed prostitution to the poverty many women faced. Saddle A saddle is a supportive structure for a rider of an animal, fastened to an animal's back by

8692-512: The rider's seat bones, reducing the pressure (force per unit area) on any one part of the horse's back, thus greatly increasing the comfort of the horse and prolonging its useful life. The invention of the solid saddle tree also allowed development of the true stirrup as it is known today. Without a solid tree, the rider's weight in the stirrups creates abnormal pressure points and makes the horse's back sore. Thermography studies on "treeless" and flexible tree saddle designs have found that there

8798-410: The rider, the saddle may need to be adjusted or replaced entirely to ensure proper fitment. Riding a saddle that doesn't properly secure and balance the rider can cause pain in the hips and back, as well as saddle sores under the bones that make contact with the saddle during riding. On horseback, a rider's pelvis may receive a saddle-horn injury due to falling onto the saddle after being bounced into

8904-425: The saddle was built on an adjustable tree and consequently only one size was needed. Its advantage over the fixed tree 1902 pattern was its ability to maintain a better fit on the horse's back as the horse gained or lost weight. This saddle was made using traditional methods and featured a seat blocked from sole leather, which maintained its shape well. Military saddles were fitted with metal staples and dees to carry

9010-496: The same amount of clothing, reducing clothing prices significantly. As supply increased, prices also dropped. While many middle-class women enjoyed increased leisure during the Victorian era, working-class women faced intensifying demands, particularly in the clothing industry. The invention of the sewing machine, which revolutionized garment production, brought longer working hours for seamstresses, especially during peak times of

9116-402: The same machine. Besides these general categories, there are also uncommon feed mechanisms used in specific applications like edge joining fur, making seams on caps, and blind stitching. The drop feed mechanism is used by almost all household machines and involves a mechanism below the sewing surface of the machine. When the needle is withdrawn from the material being sewn, a set of " feed dogs "

9222-400: The same operation as forming the seam. A zigzag stitch is a variant geometry of the lockstitch. It is a back-and-forth stitch used where a straight stitch will not suffice, such as in preventing raveling of a fabric, in stitching stretchable fabrics, and in temporarily joining two work pieces edge-to-edge. When creating a zigzag stitch, the back-and-forth motion of the sewing machine's needle

9328-432: The same saddle to be used on different sizes of horses. Western saddles are saddles originally designed to be used on horses on working cattle ranches in the United States. Used today in a wide variety of western riding activities, they are the "cowboy saddles" familiar to movie viewers, rodeo fans, and those who have gone on tourist trail rides. The Western saddle has minimal padding of its own, and must be used with

9434-401: The same seam. Lockstitch is the familiar stitch performed by most household sewing machines and most industrial "single needle" sewing machines, using two threads, one passed through a needle and one coming from a bobbin or shuttle. Each thread stays on its own side of the material while being sewn, interlacing with the other thread at each needle hole by means of a bobbin driver . As a result,

9540-632: The side, but as more homes gained power, they became more popular, and the motor was gradually introduced into the casing. Sewing machines were strictly mechanical, using gears, shafts, levers, and so on, until the 1970s when electronic machines were introduced to the market. Electronic sewing machines incorporate components such as circuit boards, computer chips, and additional motors for independent control of machine functions. These electronic components enabled new features such as automating thread cutters, needle positioning, and back-tacking, as well as digitized stitch patterns and stitch combinations. Because of

9646-409: The stitch length and direction is controlled entirely by the motion of the material being sewn. Frequently some form of hoop or stabilizing material is used with fabric to keep the material under proper tension and aid in moving it around. Most household machines can be set for manual feed by disengaging the drop feed dogs. Most industrial machines can not be used for manual feed without actually removing

9752-399: The stitch. Plain stitches fall into four general categories: chainstitch , lockstitch , overlock , and coverstitch . Chain stitch was used by early sewing machines and has two major drawbacks: A better stitch was found in the lockstitch. The chain stitch is still used today in clothing manufacture, though due to its major drawbacks, it is generally paired with an overlock stitch along

9858-410: The tree of an English saddle is built of laminated layers of high quality wood reinforced with spring steel along its length, with a riveted gullet plate. These trees are semi-adjustable and are considered "spring trees". They have some give, but a minimum amount of flexibility. More recently, saddle manufacturers are using various materials to replace wood and create a synthetic molded tree (some with

9964-524: The underside of the table. Domestic machines have their OEM motors mounted inside the machine. There are two different types of motor available for industrial machines: a servo motor (which uses less electricity and is silent when not in use), and the more traditional clutch motor (which is always spinning, even when not in use). A clutch motor is always running and making noises when it is connected to electricity. The constant operation ensures consistency and speed. The servo motor uses less electricity than

10070-463: The use of stirrups and saddles in the cavalry. Stirrups and saddles brought about innovation in new tactics, such as mass charges with thrusting spears and swords. Saddles were improved upon during the Middle Ages , as knights needed saddles that were stronger and offered more support. The resulting saddle had a higher cantle and pommel (to prevent the rider from being unseated in warfare) and

10176-667: The useful life of a saddle, often for decades. The saddle was a crucial step in the increased use of domesticated animals , during the Classical Era . The word "saddle" originates from the Old English word sadol which in turn comes from the Proto-Germanic language * sathulaz , with cognates in various other Indo-European languages , including the Latin sella . Some saddles also include: There

10282-531: The weather. Early samurai warfare was conducted primarily on horseback and the kura provided a rugged, stable, comfortable platform for shooting arrows, but it was not well suited for speed or distance. In the Edo period horses were no longer needed for warfare and Japanese saddles became quite elaborate and were decorated with mother of pearl inlays, gold leaf, and designs in colored lacquer. A saddle, regardless of type, must fit both horse and rider. Saddle fitting

10388-453: The year when wealthy customers placed orders in preparation for "the Season”—the high point of the fashion season. Many women worked a minimum of eighteen hours, and sometimes up to twenty hours a day, particularly those employed by high-end London retailers. Despite the technological advancements, the industry’s seasonality left women with low wages during peak periods and no income for much of

10494-596: The year. Faced with such economic instability, some women turned to prostitution to survive. This moral and economic tension extended to broader societal concerns. A challenge working-class women in the textile industry often faced was the notion that factory work could lead to moral decline, fueling fears of widespread prostitution. This anxiety was reflected in literature of the time, with several novels depicting female characters who fell into prostitution after entering factory work. Often, these narratives attributed their downfall to spending wages on ‘finery’ or clothing, which

10600-593: Was built on a wooden tree that supported more weight from a rider with armor and weapons. This saddle, a predecessor to the modern Western saddle , was originally padded with wool or horsehair and covered in leather or textiles. It was later modified for cattle tending and bullfighting in addition to the continual development for use in war. Other saddles, derived from earlier, treeless designs, sometimes added solid trees to support stirrups, but were kept light for use by messengers and for horse racing . The saddle eventually branched off into different designs that became

10706-449: Was designed to aid in the manufacturing of various leather goods, including saddles and bridles , but it was also capable of working with canvas, and was used for sewing ship sails . Although his machine was very advanced for the era, the concept would need steady improvement over the coming decades before it was practical enough to enter into wide use. In 1874, a sewing machine manufacturer, William Newton Wilson, found Saint's drawings in

10812-424: Was forced to pay a lump sum for all machines already produced. Singer then took out a license under Howe's patent and paid him US$ 1.15 per machine before entering into a joint partnership with a lawyer named Edward Clark. They created the first hire-purchase arrangement to allow people to purchase their machines through payments over time. Meanwhile, Allen B. Wilson developed a shuttle that reciprocated in

10918-521: Was launched when, by an act signed by then Director of the plant Msc.Eng. Kazimierz Ołdakowski, the plant was officially taken over from the local government and became part of the Państwowe Wytwórnie Uzbrojenia concern. Ołdakowski insisted that his workers received free health care. He also arranged for child care services and regular leisure time, and built gymnasiums, theaters, gardens and housing for his workers. During his directorship,

11024-832: Was renamed as the Jones Sewing Machine Co. Ltd and was later acquired by Brother Industries of Japan, in 1968. Clothing manufacturers were the first sewing machine customers, and used them to produce the first ready-to-wear clothing and shoes. In the 1860s consumers began purchasing them, and the machines—ranging in price from £6 to £15 in Britain depending on features—became very common in middle-class homes. Owners were much more likely to spend free time with their machines to make and mend clothing for their families than to visit friends, and women's magazines and household guides such as Mrs Beeton's offered dress patterns and instructions. A sewing machine could produce

11130-667: Was seen as fostering vanity and eventual vice. Elizabeth Gaskell’s Mary Barton (1848), set in Manchester, exemplifies these themes. From the 1840s to the 1920s, such questions about the relationship between the clothing women wore and the clothing they made generated moral panics. Works like Benjamin Disraeli's Sybil (1845), Theodore Dreiser's Sister Carrie (1900), Emile Zola's Au Bonheur des Dames (1883), and Honoré de Balzac's Splendeurs et misères des courtisanes (1847) similarly explored these themes. Adding to these discussions

11236-419: Was the influence of William Acton, a Parisian-trained British doctor who argued that one of the primary causes of prostitution was women’s excessive love of finery, or clothing. Acton suggested that this "vanity" drove women into prostitution, although historians debate whether he meant that women engaged in prostitution to buy fashionable clothing or that admiration for the attire worn by prostitutes led them into

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