Jean Patou ( pronounced [ʒɑ̃ pa.tu] ; 27 September 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion designer, and founder of the Jean Patou brand .
51-662: Patou was born in Paris, France in 1880. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs. Patou worked with his uncle in Normandy , then moved to Paris in 1910, intent on becoming a couturier . In 1912, he opened a small dressmaking salon called "Maison Parry". His entire 1914 collection was purchased by a single American buyer. Patou's work was interrupted by the First World War . He was mobilised in August 1914, shortly after
102-595: A characteristic shared with the Channel Islands. The Channel Islands are considered culturally and historically a part of Normandy. However, they are British Crown Dependencies , and are not part of the modern French administrative region of Normandy . Although the British surrendered claims to mainland Normandy, France, and other French possessions in 1801, the monarch of the United Kingdom retains
153-619: A constant use of Old Norse during four or five generations in certain parts of Normandy. They then became the Normans – a Norman French -speaking mixture of Norsemen and indigenous Gallo-Franks. Rollo's descendant William became king of England in 1066 after defeating Harold Godwinson , the last of the Anglo-Saxon kings , at the Battle of Hastings , while retaining the fiefdom of Normandy for himself and his descendants. Aside from
204-566: A family-owned business until September 2001 when it was bought by P&G Prestige Beaute a division of Procter & Gamble , which also market perfumes for Jean Kerléo and Karl Lagerfeld . In 2011, the UK-based company Designer Parfums Ltd bought the Jean Patou portfolio from Procter & Gamble. Thomas Fontaine is the house perfumer. Normandy Normandy (French: Normandie ; Norman : Normaundie or Nouormandie )
255-458: A massive cerebral hemorrhage nearly 24 hours earlier. He died 4 months after his 48th birthday. His sister Madeleine and her husband Raymond Barbas continued the House of Patou. Designers for the House of Patou have included Marc Bohan (1954–1956), Karl Lagerfeld (1960–1963) and Jean Paul Gaultier (1971–1973). Christian Lacroix joined the label in 1981. The last fashion collection produced by
306-469: A rare osmanthus ) in 1972. Before Joy, the House of Patou released many other perfumes, many which were to celebrate particular events. For example, Normandie (an oriental forerunner to perfumes such as Yves Saint Laurent 's Opium ) celebrated the French ocean liner of the same name, and Vacances (a mixture of green and lilac notes) celebrated the first French paid national holidays. Other Patou perfumes of
357-410: Is Charles III and each have an appointed Lieutenant-Governor . The Bailiwick of Guernsey comprises three separate jurisdictions: Guernsey , Alderney and Sark . Administratively, Herm forms part of Guernsey . Much of Normandy is predominantly agricultural in character, with cattle breeding the most important sector (although in decline from the peak levels of the 1970s and 1980s). The bocage
408-483: Is a geographical and cultural region in northwestern Europe, roughly coextensive with the historical Duchy of Normandy . Normandy comprises mainland Normandy (a part of France) and insular Normandy (mostly the British Channel Islands ). It covers 30,627 square kilometres (11,825 sq mi). Its population in 2017 was 3,499,280. The inhabitants of Normandy are known as Normans ; the region
459-655: Is a patchwork of small fields with high hedges, typical of western areas. Areas near the Seine (the former Upper Normandy region) contain a higher concentration of industry. Normandy is a significant cider -producing region, and also produces calvados , a distilled cider or apple brandy . Other activities of economic importance are dairy produce, flax (60% of production in France), horse breeding (including two French national stud farms), fishing, seafood, and tourism. The region contains three French nuclear power stations . There
510-573: Is also easy access to and from the UK using the ports of Cherbourg , Caen ( Ouistreham ), Le Havre and Dieppe . Jersey and Guernsey are often considered to be tax havens, due to having large financial services sectors and low tax rates. In January 2006 the population of French Normandy (including the part of Perche which lies inside the Orne département but excluding the Channel Islands )
561-584: Is regardless still sometimes informally referred to by the title "Duke of Normandy". The historical Duchy of Normandy was a formerly independent duchy occupying the lower Seine area, the Pays de Caux and the region to the west through the Pays d'Auge as far as the Cotentin Peninsula and Channel Islands. Western Normandy belongs to the Armorican Massif , while most of the region lies in
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#1732791049838612-616: Is the historic homeland of the Norman language . Large settlements include Rouen , Caen , Le Havre and Cherbourg . The cultural region of Normandy is roughly similar to the historical Duchy of Normandy, which includes small areas now part of the departments of Mayenne and Sarthe . The Channel Islands (French: Îles Anglo-Normandes ) are also historically part of Normandy; they cover 194 square kilometres (75 sq mi) and comprise two bailiwicks : Guernsey and Jersey , which are British Crown Dependencies. Normandy's name comes from
663-591: The British Isles , and often turned the women into frilla , a Scandinavian tradition which became known as more Danico , medieval Latin meaning "Danish marriage". The first counts of Rouen and the dukes of Normandy had concubines too. While very little archeological excavations about the Vikings were done in Normandy, the Norman toponymy retains a large Scandinavian and Anglo-Scandinavian heritage, due to
714-608: The French Revolutionary Wars and the Napoleonic Wars (1792–1815), there was an economic revival that included the mechanization of textile manufacturing and the introduction of the first trains. Also, with seaside tourism in the 19th century came the advent of the first beach resorts. During the Second World War, following the armistice of 22 June 1940 , continental Normandy was part of
765-564: The German occupied zone of France . The Channel Islands were occupied by German forces between 30 June 1940 and 9 May 1945. The town of Dieppe was the site of the unsuccessful Dieppe Raid by Allied forces. The Allies coordinated a massive build-up of troops and supplies to support a large-scale invasion of Normandy in the D-Day landings on 6 June 1944 under the code name Operation Overlord . German forces dug into fortified emplacements above
816-559: The Mississippi Delta were opened up to establish Canada and Louisiana . Colonists from Normandy were among the most active in New France , comprising Acadia , Canada, and Louisiana. Honfleur and Le Havre were two of the principal slave trade ports of France. Although agriculture remained important, industries such as weaving, metallurgy, sugar refining, ceramics, and shipbuilding were introduced and developed. In
867-670: The Paris Basin . France's oldest rocks are exposed in Jobourg, on the Cotentin peninsula. The region is bounded to the north and west by the English Channel . There are granite cliffs in the west and limestone cliffs in the east. There are also long stretches of beach in the centre of the region. The bocage typical of the western areas caused problems for the invading forces in the Battle of Normandy . A notable feature of
918-692: The Wars of Religion . When many Norman towns ( Alençon , Rouen, Caen , Coutances , Bayeux ) joined the Protestant Reformation , battles ensued throughout the province. In the Channel Islands, a period of Calvinism following the Reformation was suppressed when Anglicanism was imposed following the Stuart Restoration . Samuel de Champlain left the port of Honfleur in 1604 and founded Acadia . Four years later, he founded
969-688: The regional elections in December 2015 . The Regional Council has 102 members who are elected under a system of proportional representation . The executive consists of a president and vice-presidents. Hervé Morin from the Centre party was elected president of the council in January 2016. The Channel Islands are not part of French territory, but are instead British Crown Dependencies . They are self-governing, each having its own parliament, government and legal system. The head of state of both territories
1020-591: The 1780s, the economic crisis and the crisis of the Ancien Régime struck Normandy as well as other parts of the nation, leading to the French Revolution . Bad harvests, technical progress and the effects of the Eden Agreement signed in 1786 affected employment and the economy of the province. Normans laboured under a heavy fiscal burden. In 1790, the five departments of Normandy replaced
1071-400: The Channel Islands and England. Jersey and Guernsey use three leopards in their national symbols. The leopards represents the strength and courage Normandy has towards the neighbouring provinces. The unofficial anthem of the region is the song " Ma Normandie ". The Norman language, including its insular variations Jèrriais and Guernésiais , is a regional language , spoken by a minority of
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#17327910498381122-748: The City of Québec. From then onwards, Normans engaged in a policy of expansion in North America. They continued the exploration of the New World: René-Robert Cavelier de La Salle travelled in the area of the Great Lakes , then on the Mississippi River . Pierre Le Moyne d'Iberville and his brother Lemoyne de Bienville founded Louisiana , Biloxi , Mobile and New Orleans. Territories located between Québec and
1173-525: The German invasion of Belgium. Patou served as a captain in the Zouaves . Reopening his couture house in 1919, he became known for eradicating the flapper look by lengthening the skirt and designing sportswear for women and is considered the inventor of the knitted swimwear and the tennis skirt . He, notably, designed the then-daring sleeveless and knee-length cut tennis wear for Suzanne Lenglen . He also
1224-892: The Great Count progressively claimed territories in southern Italy until founding the Kingdom of Sicily in 1130. They also carved out a place for themselves and their descendants in the Crusader states of Asia Minor and the Holy Land . The 14th-century explorer Jean de Béthencourt established a kingdom in the Canary Islands in 1404. He received the title King of the Canary Islands from Pope Innocent VII but recognized Henry III of Castile as his overlord, who had provided him with military and financial aid during
1275-428: The House of Patou label was in 1987 when the haute couture business closed definitively following Lacroix's departure to open his own house. After the closure of the haute couture business the company has continued to produce fragrances under the Jean Patou brand. Patou also produced fragrances for Lacoste , when Patou acquired the license in the 1960s, and Yohji Yamamoto in the 1990s. From 1967 to 1999 Jean Kerléo
1326-518: The area between the rivers Somme and Loire came under the control of the Frankish lord Clovis . Vikings started to raid along the river Seine during the middle of the 9th century. As early as 841, a Viking fleet appeared at the mouth of the Seine, the principal route by which they entered the kingdom. After attacking and destroying monasteries, including one at Jumièges , they took advantage of
1377-507: The area during this period and Rouen already had a metropolitan bishop by the 4th century. The ecclesiastical province of Rouen was based on the frame of the Roman Lugdunensis Secunda , whose limits corresponded almost exactly to the future duchy of Normandy. In 406, Germanic tribes began invading from the east, followed by dispersed settlements mainly in the Pays de Bray , Pays de Caux and Vexin . As early as 487,
1428-482: The beaches. Caen , Cherbourg , Carentan , Falaise and other Norman towns endured many casualties in the Battle of Normandy , which continued until the closing of the so-called Falaise gap between Chambois and Mont Ormel . The liberation of Le Havre followed. This was a significant turning point in the war in western Europe and led to the restoration of the French Republic. The remainder of Normandy
1479-523: The conquest of England and the subsequent invasions of Wales and Ireland, the Normans expanded into other areas. Norman families, such as that of Tancred of Hauteville , Rainulf Drengot and Guimond de Moulins played important parts in the conquest of southern Italy and the Crusades . The Drengot lineage, de Hauteville's sons William Iron Arm , Drogo , and Humphrey , Robert Guiscard and Roger
1530-560: The conquest. In 1204, during the reign of John, King of England , mainland Normandy was captured from the English by the forces of Philip II of France , ending some 293 years of relative Norman independence from the French crown. Insular Normandy (the Channel Islands) remained under control of the English, though still attached to the ecclesiastical province of Rouen. In the 1259 Treaty of Paris , Henry III of England recognized
1581-472: The first sun tan lotion. Louis Süe designed all the perfume bottles and boxes for Jean Patou. When the stock market crashed, so did the market for luxury fashion. The House of Patou survived through its perfumes. The best known of Patou's perfumes is " Joy ", a heavy floral scent, based on the most precious rose and jasmine, that remained the costliest perfume in the world, until the House of Patou introduced "1000" (a heavy, earthy floral perfume, based on
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1632-480: The former province. On 13 July 1793, the Norman Charlotte Corday assassinated Jean-Paul Marat . The Normans reacted little to the many political upheavals which characterized the 19th century. Overall, they warily accepted the changes of régime ( First French Empire , Bourbon Restoration , July Monarchy , French Second Republic , Second French Empire , French Third Republic ). Following
1683-519: The landscape is created by the meanders of the Seine as it approaches its estuary. The highest point is the Signal d'Écouves (417 m), in the Armorican Massif. Normandy is sparsely forested: 12.8% of the territory is wooded, compared to a French average of 23.6%, although the proportion varies between the departments. Eure has the most cover, at 21%, while Manche has the least, at 4%,
1734-590: The late 3rd century AD, Germanic raids devastated "Lugdunensis Secunda", as the modern area of Normandy was known at the time. The Romans built a system of coastal defences known as Saxon Shore on both sides of the English Channel. Coastal settlements were raided by Saxon pirates that finally settled mainly in the Bessin region. Modern archeology reveals their presence in different Merovingian cemeteries excavated east of Caen. Christianity also began to enter
1785-459: The legitimacy of the French possession of mainland Normandy. His successors, however, often fought to regain control of their ancient fiefdom. The Charte aux Normands granted by Louis X of France in 1315 (and later re-confirmed in 1339) – like the analogous Magna Carta granted in England in the aftermath of 1204 – guaranteed the liberties and privileges of the province of Normandy. Normandy
1836-799: The limit between them) was achieved by the usual methods: Roman roads and a policy of urbanisation. Classicists mention many Gallo-Roman villas and archeology found their traces in the past 30 years. In the Late Roman Empire a new province was created and called Lugdunensis Secunda , it sketched the later ecclesiastical province of Rouen , with the Metropolis civitas Rotomagensium ( Rouen ), Civitas Baiocassium ( Augustodorum , Bayeux), Civitas Abrincatum ( Ingena , Avranches), Civitas Ebroicorum ( Mediolanum , Évreux), Civitas Saiorum (Sées), Civitas Lexoviorum ( Noviomagus , Lisieux / Lieuvin) and Civitas Constantia (Coutances). In
1887-535: The metropolitan area) and formerly the capital of Lower Normandy; Le Havre (296,773 in the metropolitan area); and Cherbourg (117,855 in the metropolitan area). The traditional provincial flag of Normandy , gules, two leopards passant or , is used in the region and its predecessors. The three-leopard version (known in the Norman language as les treis cats , "the three cats") is used by some associations and individuals, especially those who support cultural links with
1938-709: The power vacuum created by the disintegration of Charlemagne 's empire to take Northern France. The fiefdom of Normandy was created for the Viking leader Hrólfr , known in Medieval Latin as Rollo . Rollo had besieged Paris but in 911 entered vassalage to the king of the West Franks , Charles the Simple , through the Treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte . In exchange for his homage and fealty , Rollo legally gained
1989-491: The pure perfume. Joy remains the world's second best-selling scent (the first is Chanel No. 5 ), Joy was created by Henri Alméras for Patou at the height of the Great Depression (1935) for Patou's former clients who could no longer afford his haute couture clothing line. Patou was discovered unresponsive in his home the night of March 8, 1936 and died less than an hour later. He had been found to have suffered
2040-620: The region in prehistoric times. Normandy also has many megalithic monuments . Celts (also known as Belgae and Gauls ) have populated Normandy since at least the Bronze Age . When Julius Caesar invaded Gaul (58–50 BC), there were nine different Celtic tribes living in this part of Gaul. The Romanisation of this region partly included in the Gallia Celtica and in the Gallia Belgica (the Seine being more or less
2091-405: The same time were: All these, with the exception of Le Sien, were re-released during the 1980s (under the name Ma Collection), and were available until recently, all in a 50 ml Eau de Toilette Spray, 75 ml Eau de Toilette bottle, and 30 ml pure perfume bottle, each with a unique art deco box. A Jean Patou silk scarf, printed in a pattern complementing that of the box was included with
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2142-474: The settlement of the territory by Vikings (" Northmen ") starting in the 9th century, and confirmed by treaty in the 10th century between King Charles III of France and the Viking jarl Rollo . For almost 150 years following the Norman conquest of England in 1066, Normandy and England were linked by having the same person reign as both Duke of Normandy and King of England . Archaeological finds, such as cave paintings , prove that humans were present in
2193-444: The surrender of French possessions in 1801, and the belief that the rights of succession to that title are subject to Salic Law which excludes inheritance through female heirs. Rivers in Normandy include: And many coastal rivers: The modern region of Normandy was created by the territorial reform of French Regions in 2014 by the merger of Lower Normandy , and Upper Normandy . The new region took effect on 1 January 2016, after
2244-471: The territory that he and his Viking allies had previously conquered. The name "Normandy" reflects Rollo's Viking (" Norseman ") origins. The descendants of Rollo and his followers created an aristocracy that step by step adopted the local Gallo-Romance language , intermarried with the area's native Gallo-Frankish inhabitants, and adopted Christianity. Nevertheless, the first generations of Scandinavian and Anglo-Scandinavian settlers brought slaves, mainly from
2295-660: The title Duke of Normandy in respect to the Channel Islands. The Channel Islands (except for Chausey ) remain Crown Dependencies of the British Crown in the present era. Thus the Loyal Toast in the Channel Islands is Le Roi, notre Duc ("The King, our Duke"). The British monarch is understood to not be the Duke with regards to mainland Normandy described herein, by virtue of the Treaty of Paris of 1259 ,
2346-538: Was devastated by various civil wars and the Hundred Years' War . Between 1419 and 1450, the English controlled all of Normandy apart from Mont-Saint-Michel , and made Rouen the seat of their power in France. Normandy ultimately saw its population decline by three quarters as a result of the various conflicts which took place in the region during the late Middle Ages. Afterwards, prosperity returned to Normandy until
2397-438: Was estimated at 3,260,000 with an average population density of 109 inhabitants per km , just under the French national average, but rising to 147 for Upper Normandy . The population of the Channel Islands is estimated around 174,000 (2021). The main cities (population given from the 1999 census) are Rouen (518,316 in the metropolitan area), the capital since 2016 of the province and formerly of Upper Normandy; Caen (420,000 in
2448-466: Was liberated by Allied forces only on 9 May 1945 at the end of the war, when the Channel Island occupation effectively ended. Despite the renunciation of the Duke of Normandy title by Henry III of England in the 1259 Treaty of Paris , and the extinction of the duchy itself in modern-day, republican France, in the Channel Islands the monarch of the United Kingdom (whether a king or queen)
2499-551: Was sold in flacons modelled after the originals by Louis Süe . Kerleo stepped down in 1999 appointing Jean-Michel Duriez as house perfumer. Duriez creations include "Un Amour de Patou" (1998), "Enjoy" (2003) and "Sira des Indes" (2006). " Joy " was voted "Scent of the Century" by the public at the Fragrance Foundation FiFi Awards in 2000, beating its rival " Chanel No. 5 ". Jean Patou remained
2550-642: Was the first designer to popularize the cardigan and moved fashion towards the natural and comfortable . Jean Patou is credited with inventing the "designer tie" in the 1920s when men's ties, made in the same fabric as the women's dress collection, were displayed in department stores next to Patou's perfume counter. The designer tie style is still prominent amongst contemporary fashion designers, such as Louis Feraud , Timothy Everest , Duchamp and Paul Smith and Patrick McMurray. In 1925 Patou launched his perfume business with three fragrances created by Henri Alméras . In 1928, Jean Patou created "Huile de Chaldée",
2601-443: Was the house perfumer, he developed all their perfumes during that time including "1000" (1972) and "Sublime" (1992), "Patou Pour Homme" (1980). In 1984, Jean Kerléo was responsible for the reformulation and reissue of twelve of Patou's fragrances from 1925 to 1964 in a series called "Ma Collection", including the first fragrances created for the house in 1925, the trio "Amour-Amour", "Que sais-je?" and "Adieu Sagesse". "Ma Collection"
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