Misplaced Pages

#805194

48-590: Maison Margiela was founded by Martin Margiela , a Belgian fashion designer, in 1988. Earlier, Margiela had studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Antwerp , and although he actually graduated a year earlier, in 1979, he is often mistaken for a member of the university's Avant-garde fashion collective the Antwerp Six . Among other influences, during the 1980s Margiela and other Belgian designers such as

96-578: A bag, coats with removable collars and fastenings, the iconic twice looping strap of the Cape Cod watch, and the losange , a diamond shaped scarf that has become one of Hermès' bestsellers. All shows were held at the ultra-luxurious rue St-Honoré Hermès store in Paris. In 2003, Margiela stepped down from his role at Hermes to focus on his own label and was succeeded by his former mentor, Jean Paul Gaultier . After leaving fashion, Margiela turned to art as

144-522: A deconstructed look [with his new label]… Vaguely Dadaist , as if Marcel Duchamp were reincarnated as a fashion designer, Margiela questioned every tenet of fashion and luxury." Vogue would later write that his early ideas "provoked shock and intrigue" in the fashion industry. On the label's garments, simple blank white labels with four white tacks were sewn to signify the brand. Distinct product ranges were given numbers as signifiers, in no particular chronological order. With New York Magazine describing

192-434: A deconstructivist philosophy to his work there. He pioneered a timeless wardrobe focused on quality and inspired by 1920s sports and leisure clothing. Despite initial doubts by fashion critics, he created several understated collections, from loose-fitting masculine tailoring to black crêpe evening dresses that were the height of discreet elegance. Among his original designs include a jacket that can be rolled and carried like

240-612: A documentary by Dries Van Noten ), it was called "the definitive study of this elusive, technically gifted designer" in Hollywood Reporter . He notably explained his withdrawal from the public eye and his desire to remain a designer, rather than "a creative director who directs his assistants". As with most media related to the designer, only Margiela's hands are shown on screen. Martin Margiela Too Many Requests If you report this error to

288-481: A fragrance that reflects Galliano's vision of the Maison Margiela women. Willow Smith , Teddy Quinlivan , Hanne Gaby Odiele , Sasha Lane , Princess Nokia and Molly Bair are the chosen “Mutinist” ambassadors, who will be representing the diversity and individuality of the fragrance. Maison Margiela is known for showcasing collections in atypical settings and manners, with The New York Times describing

336-411: A low profile, refusing to grant face-to-face interviews or be photographed. Since leaving fashion in 2009, he has emerged as an artist , exploring the themes that made him an iconic figure in fashion. He is considered to be one of the most influential fashion designers in recent history for his iconic deconstructed, upcycled aesthetic and oversized silhouette. Martin Margiela was born on 9 April 1957 in

384-653: A menswear collection in 1998, known as line 10. Martin Margiela was creative director for womenswear of the French design house Hermès from 1997 until 2003, with the Maison Martin Margiela team's designs for Hermès unveiled twice a year in Hermes’ rue St-Honoré store. The Independent called the collections "understated," with both "loose-fitting masculine tailoring" and "black crêpe evening dresses," among other items. New York MAgazine in turn described

432-605: A number from 0 to 23 as a reference code, with no particular chronological order. Examples include fine jewelry (12), footwear (22), eyewear (8), objects (13) and fragrance (3). The house produces both artisanal collections and ready-to-wear collections, with the former inspiring the designs of the latter. With formal allegiance to no particular fashion movement, Maison Margiela's designs are famous for deconstructionist traits such as exposed seams, being oversized and upcycling garments. Other deconstructionist tactics Maison Margiela has utilized include using traditional fabric linings as

480-436: A piece of cloth with the numbers 0-23. The badge is attached to the inside with four small, white pick-stitches, exposed to the outside on unlined garments. In stark contrast to most of his peers, he has always remained backstage and does not take a bow after his shows. Since 1988, he has never agreed to a formal interview or been photographed for any magazine. All media contacts were conducted via fax and later email. The idea

528-440: A public spectacle that shocked the industry. As opposed to the popular themes of extravagance, bold colors, and wide shoulders at the time, his collection included ripped sleeves, frayed hems, and clumpy shoes. To show respect for the community, local kids were also asked to hand draw invitations in art classes at school and were seated in the front row during the show. Maison Martin Margiela's ultra-discreet trademark consists of

SECTION 10

#1732790522806

576-457: A role he held until 1987. In 1988, Martin launched his own self-titled design label Maison Martin Margiela with business partner and fellow designer Jenny Meirens . Initially working out of a Paris apartment, they opened their first store in an unmarked white space in Paris, also opening a small studio on 12 Leopoldstraat in Antwerp. New York Magazine wrote that "the designer quickly defined

624-470: A search for his successor. His close associates speculated that he wanted to "enjoy his life outside the insistent glare of the fashion world." In early 2008, he approached Raf Simons , the creative director of Jil Sander , and offered to hand the reins of Maison Margiela to him, but Simons appeared to have declined the offer and instead renewed a three-year contract with Jil Sander. In December 2009, Margiela formally left his eponymous label. No successor

672-486: A show in an abandoned Paris metro station featured models walking down staircases lined with candles, and according to The Independent, other settings have included round dining tables arranged in neglected warehouses, stairwells of old town houses, and disused subway cars. Although the house has a reputation for avoiding booking celebrity models, for spring of 1993 models such as Cecilia Chancellor and Kate Moss showcased "minimalism paired with Victoriana." 1993 also saw

720-726: A show with models weaving among a brass band on the runway, and in 1994 the label staged a collection based on what Barbie ’s wardrobe would look like full size. Models sat amongst the audience in 1995, and on another occasion, in 1997 the company used a map to invite the fashion press to a street corner in France, and then had the models and a Belgian brass band showcase the newest collection after disembarking from an AEC Routemaster bus. Vogue also related that "one show challenged editors and buyers to seat themselves according to their perceived importance, while another saw models wheeled out on trolleys." According to Vogue, for two seasons in 1998

768-413: Is a diffusion line for the label. MM6 is aimed at the contemporary fashion market as opposed to the avant garde high fashion positioning of mainline Maison Margiela. As of 2023, MM6 is still showing runway collections during Milan fashion week. On 26 September 2018, after the spring/summer 2019 show, Maison Margiela's new fragrance, Mutiny was launched. Nose Dominique Ropion took six years to come up with

816-566: The Antwerp Six were inspired by deconstructive fashions introduced by Japanese avantgardists such as Rei Kawakubo —creator of the label Comme des Garçons . Margiela began utilizing the deconstructive style in the 1980s while a freelance designer in Milan , Italy , and early on his work would often reveal the garments’ structure, for example intentionally exposed linings and seams. In 1984 he became Jean Paul Gaultier ’s design assistant in Paris ,

864-546: The Dutch production company Mint Film Office. The documentary retrospectively explores the early days of the house and features interviews with members of the original Maison Margiela team, including the house’s co-founder Jenny Meirens . In November 2019, director Reiner Holzemer premiered the documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words . Co-produced by Aminata and Holzemer (who had previously worked on

912-540: The French design house Hermès from 1997 until 2003, with the design team working under Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas . In 2002, Maison Martin Margiela was acquired by the OTB Group,a holding company led by Renzo Rosso, also owner of the Italian fashion label Diesel. In December 2004, Maison Martin Margiela moved into a new headquarters in an eighteenth-century convent in Paris' 11th arrondissement . The interior of

960-633: The Wikimedia System Administrators, please include the details below. Request from 172.68.168.226 via cp1108 cp1108, Varnish XID 255562177 Upstream caches: cp1108 int Error: 429, Too Many Requests at Thu, 28 Nov 2024 10:42:02 GMT Martin Margiela Martin Margiela (born 9 April 1957) is a Belgian fashion designer , artist , and founder of the French luxury fashion house Maison Margiela . Throughout his career, Margiela has maintained

1008-559: The city of Genk in Limburg , Belgium . He became interested in fashion as a child after watching a TV show featuring influential 1960s designers André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne . As a teenager, he began putting second-hand clothes from flea markets together to create cheap but stylish looks. His taste for pre-worn clothes would later influence his work as a full-fledged designer at major fashion houses. He befriended Inge Grognard who shared his interest in fashion and would later become

SECTION 20

#1732790522806

1056-407: The designs as "quiet explorations of luxury that focused on classic clothes with subtle but masterful twists." Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first haute couture collection in 2006. In November 2008 the brand launched a small jewelry and eyewear collection including its first pair of sunglasses, described as "an impenetrable black band that wraps right around the face." The house's first fragrance

1104-555: The exhibit to Somerset House in London two years later. In 2017, MoMu showcased the 12 collections the label had produced while Margiela was appointed by Jean-Louis Dumas to work with Hermès. In early 2015 filmmaker Alison Chernick released The Artist is Absent , a short biopic on Martin Margiela that launched at the Tribeca Film Festival . In October 2017, director Menna Laura Meijer released We Margiela through

1152-463: The fall of 2014, sources estimated that the brand generated about $ 126 million in annual revenues, with around 50 directly owned stores. In October 2014 it was announced that John Galliano would take the position of creative director, after having previously served in that position at Givenchy , Dior , and his eponymous line, John Galliano. As reported by the Guardian, Margiela's only directions to

1200-470: The fashion media contended that the anonymity was a publicity stunt, although Maison Martin Margiela asserted that Margiela's anonymity was a reaction to an overly commercialized fashion industry and a genuine attempt to return the focus of fashion to the clothing, and not the personas behind it. The press dubbed Margiela the Greta Garbo of fashion as a result, a reference to Garbo's similar avoidance of

1248-439: The headquarters and furniture were painted entirely white with emulsion , creating an aged look. In addition to the white surroundings, employees all wear "blouse blanche", white coats traditionally worn by couture craftsmen. The white coats are both a nod to history and aesthetics, as well as an equalizer, as all employees wear them, regardless of title. By the summer of 2008 there were 14 Margiela boutiques. In October 2009, it

1296-406: The house featured items such as military coats, a parachute dress, neon face paint, and 19th-century garments. In September 2016, Maison Margiela partnered with Barneys New York for its fall windows on Madison Avenue , creating four vignettes to reflect the house's recent artisans and ready-to-wear collections. The spring summer 2024 couture presentation has been praised by critics. The collection

1344-405: The house premiered its first two collections with Galliano as head designer, initially the brand's "artisanal" collection. The second collection comprised 30 outfits including neon accessors, "Mary-Jane shoes and fake-fur slippers, short skirts, long coats, patent finishes." Galliano upheld house tradition by not taking a post-show bow, although he was in attendance at the shows. The July 2016 show by

1392-600: The house." With Galliano focusing on the haute couture element of the company, by the end of 2015 revenues were up 30%. In April 2024, Maison Margiela extends its Replica fragrance collection with vegetable garden notes. Prior to the brand's acquisition by OTB Group in 2002, its stores were not listed in the phone directory, and Margiela's name did not appear outside the shops. By the summer of 2008 there were 14 Margiela boutiques operating internationally, with expansion in Dubai , Hong Kong , Moscow and Munich taking place over

1440-460: The jewelry melts. First shown in 1989 and introduced in 1992, one of the company's more recognized pieces is the Tabi boot, an interpretation of the traditional split Japanese tabi sock which separates the large toe. In 1994 Maison Margiela debuted its first period pieces, with a line of "complete reproductions," after building its previous collection entirely from its archives. Maison Margiela debuted

1488-532: The label made do without live models, in one case instead using marionettes by Jane How . Maison Martin Margiela was invited to show their first haute couture collection in Paris by The Chamber Syndicale in May 2006. The house then held its 20th anniversary show in September 2008 in Paris, featuring a catwalk with a walking birthday cake and "an oom-pah band surrounded by Margiela's lab-coated assistants." Clothing

Maison Margiela - Misplaced Pages Continue

1536-465: The label's early shows as "perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions ‘80s Paris fashion is known for," in 1988, Maison Martin Margiela presented its debut womenswear collection in Paris . for the spring of 1989. Refusing to take bows at his live shows, Margiela began avoiding pictures and began handling all media via fax, with interviews taken collectively by the entire design team and correspondence signed with "we." Many in

1584-534: The make-up artist for all of his shows. He went on to study fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (Antwerp) and graduated in 1979, a year before the avant-garde fashion collective the Antwerp Six . After graduation, Margiela worked as a freelance designer for five years. In 1984, he moved to Paris to work as a design assistant for French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier until 1987. Margiela founded his eponymous label, Maison Martin Margiela , in 1988 with his business partner Jenny Meirens. Meirens,

1632-511: The models' faces are often obscured by hoods, fabric or long hair, in an attempt to direct attention to the clothes and away from the models themselves. In 1989 Maison Margiela staged a collection on a playground in the outskirts of Paris. With local children interacting with the models in an unrehearsed way and a first-come, first-served seating arrangement, according to Business of Fashion, "the critics loathed it. The industry loved it." Continuing to stage catwalks in unusual places, in spring 1992

1680-474: The new director were "make it your own." Giving rare interviews in the interim, Galliano presented his debut collection for Maison Margiela in January 2015, to broadly positive reviews. Coinciding with Galliano's debut collection, it was revealed that the house had dropped "Martin" from its name, in favor of "Maison Margiela." A spokesperson for Maison Margiela said that the name change "represented an evolution of

1728-520: The outer layers of garments, and the label's 1988 debut womenswear collection included what The Independent described as "a leather butcher's apron reworked into a seductive evening gown," and an old tulle dress worked into several tailored jackets. Other work with unconventional materials has included clothes fashioned of plastic carrier bags and wire coat hangers, trouser suits made from 1970s upholstery fabrics, tops made with leather gloves, and jewelry made of colored ice such that clothes are dyed as

1776-548: The owner of a designer clothing boutique in Brussels , described Margiela as "the most talented young designer" she had ever seen. Margiela presented the Spring/Summer 1990 collection in the first show for his eponymous label in the fall of 1989 on a derelict playground in a North African neighborhood on the outskirts of Paris. It was an unusual show with an uneven runway and intentionally stumbling models, which created

1824-416: The presentation. In his review for WWD , Miles Socha says the collection "will surely be remembered in history books, collected by museums, pored over by design students" and emphasizes its "litany of new techniques developed over the last year" re-focusing couture on its research and development origins. The Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp (MoMu) held a retrospective on the label's work in 2008, moving

1872-443: The shows as "alternately electrifying or humorous or sexy or just plain weird." According to New York Magazine , early shows were "perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions ‘80s Paris fashion is known for," as well as "radically personal and humanistic expressions about clothes [at a time] when fashion otherwise seemed estranged from everyday realities." Maison Margiela's runway shows are notable in that

1920-570: The spotlight, and in 2008 the New York Times called Margiela "fashion's invisible man." In 1994 the New York Times commented on the company's influence by writing that its "made-over flea-market clothes put an end to the conspicuous consumption [of the fashion industry] of the 1980s." That year Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first period pieces. In 1998, Maison Martin Margiela debuted a menswear collection, known as line 10. Maison Martin Margiela oversaw creative direction of womenswear for

1968-678: The subsequent six months. In late 2009 the brand opened a "pop-up store" at the Art Basel Miami Beach art fair. The number of standalone stores had grown to 17 by 2010, with 21 "shop-in-shops" internationally. As of 2017, Maison Margiela has stores in countries such as France , the United Kingdom , Belgium , China , Germany , Hong Kong , Italy , Japan , South Korea , Taiwan , the United States , and Thailand . Maison Margiela assigns each of its product ranges

Maison Margiela - Misplaced Pages Continue

2016-477: The time. CEO Giovanni Pungetti stated that "we want to stay avant-garde, and provocative, but without a new creative director. It’s a challenge. We know this. We will probably make mistakes, but the most important thing is to learn from them." The company expanded its homewares and interior design business in 2010, and in July 2011 the house designed several concept hotel suites for La Maison Champs-Élysées in Paris. By

2064-441: Was announced that Martin Margiela had resigned as creative director of Maison Martin Margiela, to varied speculation about the reasons. Following Margiela's departure, the anonymous design team continued to design the label, with no single creative director in place. It later became public that future Balenciaga designer Demna was appointed to the womenswear design team shortly after Margiela's departure, but worked anonymously at

2112-406: Was created in collaboration with L’Oreal , debuting in 2009. Maison Margiela debuted a capsule collection for H&M in 2012, consisting largely of reissued pieces from the Margiela archives. The company collaborated with Converse on shoe designs in 2013, and has also worked with the watch brand G-Shock and collaborated with Swarovski on ready-to-wear jewelry in 2013. Launching in 1997, MM6

2160-414: Was described as "coats made of synthetic wigs, bodysuits that fused parts of trench coats and tuxedo jackets, and mirrored tights made to look like disco balls." The house designed Kanye West ’s tour wardrobe in 2013 for his Yeezus tour. The spring show of 2014 "melded sweet, pioneer styles like floral house dresses with edgier fare like nude bodysuits and oversize Willy Wonka sunglasses." In early 2015

2208-448: Was inspired by the work of Hungarian-French photographer Brassaï , and focused on an aesthetic of the night-time underbelly of Paris with themes of corsetry, beadwork, and 1930's inspired silhouettes. For the show, Galliano collaborated with makeup artist Pat McGrath to achieve a moonlit porcelain doll effect for the models. Gwendoline Christie closed the show in a fit and flare white latex dress, one of several mid or plus size models in

2256-456: Was named and the house continued to be operated by a team of designers until John Galliano was appointed as creative director in 2014. Margiela was named creative director of women's wear at Hermès in 1997. The news of an avant-garde designer becoming the head of a conservative and classic French house surprised the industry. Though his designs for Hermès didn’t resemble the forward-leaning work of his own label, he nonetheless incorporated

2304-517: Was to emphasize that his designs should speak for themselves and they are the product of a collaborative team rather than his own. Maison Margiela was acquired by the OTB Group in 2002. Margiela remained as creative director , but "had not been involved in recent collections" according to Renzo Rosso , the CEO of OTB Group, in 2008. He had privately expressed his desire to stop designing and begun

#805194