A singe is a slight scorching, burn or treatment with flame. This may be due to an accident, such as scorching one's hair when lighting a gas fire , or a deliberate method of treatment or removal of hair or other fibres.
84-492: A singe is a treatment available at a barber 's. A lit taper (candle) or other device is used to lightly burn and shrivel the hair. The practice of singeing was popular approximately a century ago; it was believed that hair had "fluid" in it and singeing would trap the fluid in. Singeing is supposed to have beneficial effects – sealing cut ends, closing up the follicles , preventing the hair from bleeding (a belief that has since been debunked) and encouraging it to grow. Singeing
168-585: A French point blade is usually flat ground. A hollow grind produces a thinner blade than the flat grind because it removes more material from the blade ( hollows or thins the blade more). The hollow-ground blade flexes more easily and provides more feedback on the resistance the blade meets while cutting the hair, which is an indicator of blade sharpness. Hollow-ground blades are preferred by most barbers and some high-end razor manufacturers limit their production exclusively to hollow ground razors. The third and final category refers to blade width. The width of
252-542: A better value and more efficient product. Dovo [ de ] in Germany reports that since a production low of less than 8,000 units per year in 2006, the company sells 3,000 units per month, and has 110,000 orders with production lead time of three years. The Dovo spokesman commented that around 2006, “we were producing less than 8,000 straight razors per year, The tradition of straight razor manufacturing had almost come to an end.” Dovo explains, that after
336-547: A compromise, to the back of the blade while the mirror finish and gold leafing are applied to the more visible front of the blade. This way the blade will not be as expensive as a fully mirror finished one. Metal plating , using nickel or silver, is also used, but it is not preferred; the plating eventually erodes through use, revealing the underlying metal, which is often of inferior quality. Nickel-plated blades are very difficult to hone repeatedly and are made for mainly aesthetic reasons though lacking functionality. The blade
420-512: A disposable blade. Electric razors have also reduced the market share of the straight razors, especially since the 1950s. A 1979 comparative study of straight and electric razors, performed by Dutch researchers, found that straight razors shave hair approximately 0.002 in. (0.05mm) shorter than electrics. Since 2012, production of straight razors has increased multifold. Straight razor sales are increasing globally and manufacturers have difficulty satisfying demand. Sales started increasing since
504-429: A few are found with thin metal scales or wooden scales. The blade material is usually a high carbon steel or a stainless steel. Traditionally, carbon steel was used, but stainless steels are popular in modern times due to the ease of maintenance. The parts of a straight razor and their function are described as follows: the narrow end of the blade rotates on a pin called the pivot, between two protective pieces called
588-434: A flat ground blade, since by definition is not hollow (curved) at all, is the most stable of the blades but because its cross sectional area is the largest it also feels heavier than hollow ground and this can affect the feel and balance of the razor. A razor is well balanced if when opened it balances about its pivot pin, indicating that the torques about the pivot point, caused by the corresponding weight distributions of
672-458: A shape called the blank supplied by the steel manufacturer. The blank of the blade is produced by forging steel ingots or steel available in other forms such as wire, springs, etc.. After the blank is formed, the first step is to clean it using a heavy forge . The material used for open razors is steel with a minimum carbon content of 0.6%. This percentage of carbon content ensures optimum hardness, flexibility and resistance to wear. Following
756-411: A smaller radius of curvature . These two beveled areas have different curvatures and in a well-made razor they transition seamlessly in the ridge (belly) and the cutting edge respectively. Sometimes there are three bevels. The ridge stabilizes the blade against torsional flexing in a direction perpendicular to its longitudinal axis by acting as a lengthwise spine for the blade. The distance between
840-527: A smaller initial investment, although they cost more over time . Despite its long-term advantages, the straight razor lost significant market share. As shaving became less intimidating and men began to shave themselves more, the demand for barbers providing straight razor shaves decreased. Since 2012, production of straight razors has increased multifold. Straight razor sales are increasing globally and manufacturers have difficulty satisfying demand. Straight razor sales are increasing because they are perceived as
924-414: A standard straight razor is usually close to 3 inches of blade length, but this does vary. Blades are described by the depth from spine to edge, measured in eights of an inch. 3/8 is a very narrow razor mostly used for detail work, with 5/8 and 6/8 being the most commonly seen sizes. It is very rare to see old razors bigger than 8/8 however there are some out there at 10/8 or larger. The other major factor
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#17328013864481008-406: A treatment for Pseudomonas syringae bacterial infection. In the textile industry , loose fibres protruding on the surface of textile goods are singed to remove them. When done to fabrics containing cotton , this results in increased wetting , better dyeing characteristics, improved reflection, no "frosty" appearance, a smoother surface, better clarity in printing, improved visibility of
1092-486: A way to distinguish roles in society and wartime. Men in Ancient Greece would have their beards, hair, and fingernails trimmed and styled by the κουρεύς ( cureus ), in an agora (market place) which also served as a social gathering for debates and gossip. The barbers used a rough cloth (ὠμόλινον) on their shoulders to keep the hairs off their dresses. There were also female barbers (κουρεύτριαι). Barbering
1176-505: A wealthy landowner and industrialist, to ports in the Gulf of Finland , approximately 1200 miles (1931 km) from Sheffield. From there, these goods were probably sent to Finland and even Russia. By 1740, Benjamin Huntsman was making straight razors complete with decorated handles and hollow-ground blades made from cast steel, using a process he invented. Huntsman's process was adopted by
1260-468: Is a behavior where mice will use their teeth to pluck out hairs from the face of cage mates when they groom each other. It is practised by both male and female mice. The "barber" plucks the vibrissae of the recipient. The behavior is probably related to social dominance . Straight razor A straight razor is a razor with a blade that can fold into its handle. They are also called open razors and cut-throat razors . The predecessors of
1344-488: Is a brittle material and can exhibit cracks after some use. Resin impregnated wooden handles are water resistant, do not deform and their weight complements the blade's to provide good overall balance for the razor. Snakewood, Brosimum guianense , is also suitable for long term and intensive use. The mechanical properties of bone make it a good handle material. Handles were once made of elephant ivory, but this has been discontinued, though fossil ivory, such as mammoth,
1428-439: Is a place where men can be men. It is a place, in contrast to Gordone's bar , to be somebody." Barbershops from black barbers at first mostly served wealthy Caucasians. In the later part of the century they opened barbershops in black communities for serving black people. The average shop cost $ 20 to equip in 1880. It was about ten by twelve feet. A hair cut in 1880 would cost five or ten cents and shaving cost three cents. In
1512-406: Is called the heel . The endpoint of the cutting edge at the front of the blade, opposite to the heel , is called the toe . A thick strip of metal running transversely at the junction where the main blade attaches to the shank is called the stabiliser . The stabiliser can be double, single, or can be absent in some razor models. The first stabiliser is usually very narrow and thicker and runs at
1596-415: Is decorated by engraving or gold leafing depending on the price. Less expensive blades undergo an electrolytic black acid engraving process. For more expensive blades, gold leafing applied by hand is employed, following a traditional process. Sharpening is the final stage in the process. At first the blade is sharpened on a grinding wheel. Following that the blade can be honed by holding the blades against
1680-480: Is derisive jargon in craps , and refers to the commingling of " gaming cheques of different denominations". Wagers that combine different denominations are "supposed to be stacked with the highest denomination at the bottom". The market for barber supplies is estimated to have revenue of around twenty billion dollars. The industry in the U.S. market is expected to grow by around 3% per year between 2017 and 2022. The term "barbering" when applied to laboratory mice
1764-457: Is difficult. The converse is true for soft-tempered blades. The characteristics of medium-tempered blades are in-between the two extremes. Carbon steel blades can reach a maximum hardness of 61 HRC on the Rockwell scale . Following the processes of hardening and tempering, the blanks are ground, according to the two fundamental blade cross sectional area profiles. Subsequent to grinding,
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#17328013864481848-453: Is known as a barbershop or the barber's . Barbershops have been noted places of social interaction and public discourse since at least classical antiquity . In some instances, barbershops were also public forums. They were the locations of open debates, voicing public concerns, and engaging citizens in discussions about contemporary issues. In previous times, barbers (known as barber surgeons ) also performed surgery and dentistry . With
1932-474: Is more common in barbering schools than other cosmetology disciplines to get some business and ethics education, since entrepreneurship is especially common in the barbering trade with many professionals choosing to open their own barbershops. All the skills learned in barber school will be tested at the board exams, which typically feature a written and practical exam. The barber pole, featuring blue, red and white spiraling stripes, symbolizes different aspects of
2016-702: Is prone to nicking the skin of an Inexperienced shaver. The "handle" on a straight razor is not a handle at all, but a protector to prevent the delicate edge being damaged when not in use, and to prevent accidental cuts from the sharp blade. Construction is in the form of two scales, held by the pivot pin through the tang, and pinned through a wedge at the other end. Scales are thin, as they must be flexible. Typical scales are 2–3 mm thick and usually made from some form of synthetic (nowadays usually acrylic, but on older razors celluloid, Bakelite, xylonite, and others are common), bone, horn, or ivory on older razors. Some cheaper razors had compressed leather scales, and
2100-420: Is simply called the stabiliser (single or double) and indicates a hollow ground blade, since a flat ground blade is massive and stable enough to not need a stabiliser. A double stabiliser implies 1 ⁄ 1 (full) hollow ground blade. The stabiliser protects the blade from torsional bending in the transverse direction (transverse spine). In addition to the transverse stabiliser, a longitudinal stabiliser
2184-478: Is so demanding that a full 25% of the blades get rejected as not meeting standards. There is a tradeoff between stability and long term blade sharpness. A full hollow ground ( 1 ⁄ 1 ) blade can keep a very sharp edge even after a great number of honing cycles because of its high degree of hollowness but it is more susceptible to torsional bending because it is thinner. A partially hollow blade ( 1 ⁄ 2 or 1 ⁄ 4 for example) cannot sustain
2268-410: Is sometimes created in the form of a ridge parallel to the cutting edge and the blade is ground in two areas or bevels , each with different degrees of hollowness or curvature ; the area between the back of the blade and the ridge is typically less hollow featuring a larger radius of curvature , also called the "belly", and the area between the ridge and the cutting edge which is more hollow i.e. with
2352-716: Is still sometimes used to bond natural hair to hair extensions . Pre-industrialised cultures have also used singeing as a means to trim scalp or body hair, as a part of normal grooming or during ritual activity. Sir Francis Drake was famously said to have figuratively " singed the King of Spain's beard " when he raided Cadiz and burnt the Spanish fleet. In the agricultural industry , both poultry and pork are singed (after slaughter) to remove stub feathers and bristles during processing for packaging for sale and consumption. Kiwifruit vine leaders and canes are sometimes singed as
2436-439: Is still sometimes used, and antique razors with ivory scales are occasionally found (it is illegal to kill elephants for their ivory, but it is legal to buy an ivory-handled razor made before 1989). The geometry of the blade can be categorised according to three factors: the blade width and weight, the shape of the profile of the point of the razor, and the type of grinding method used for the blade (as grinding method determines
2520-533: Is the point shape. The most common is the round or Dutch point, with the French point being fairly common. The square point is also known as an American point, and is more common on razors from the USA. There is also the Spanish point, Spike point, and Barber's Notch. Inexperienced users should use either the round point, or a razor with a muted toe (the very tip of the edge rounded slightly) as an unmuted square or spike
2604-598: The Bronze Age (around 3500 BC ) in Egypt. The first barbering services were performed by Egyptians in 5000 BC with instruments they had made from oyster shells or sharpened flint . In ancient Egyptian culture, barbers were highly respected individuals. Priests and men of medicine are the earliest recorded examples of barbers. In addition, the art of barbering played a significant role across continents. Mayan, Aztec, Iroquois, Norse and Mongolian cultures utilized shave art as
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2688-499: The Gulf of Finland , approximately 1200 miles (1931 km) from Sheffield. From there, these goods were probably sent to Finland and even Russia. By 1740, Benjamin Huntsman was making straight razors complete with decorated handles and hollow-ground blades made from cast steel, using a process he invented. Huntsman's process was adopted by the French sometime later, albeit reluctantly at first due to nationalist considerations. In England, razor manufacturers were even more reluctant than
2772-558: The United States , the blue stripe is also sometimes used to match the flag . In South Korea , barber's poles are used both for actual barbershops and for brothels. In Forest Grove, Oregon , the "World's Tallest Barber Shop Pole" measures 72 feet (22 m). Because of its bright bands and colors, the redbanded rockfish Sebastes babcocki is referred to as "barber pole". Other pseudonyms include bandit, convict, canary, Hollywood, and Spanish flag. The phrase barber pole
2856-408: The cutting edge . Finally the other free end of the blade, at the opposite end of the tang on the spine, is called the point and, sometimes, the head or the nose . There are usually two, but sometimes three, pins in the handle. The middle pin, if present, is plastic coated and is called the centre plug . Its function is to stabilise the sides of the handle so that they cannot be squeezed in
2940-423: The forging stage, a hole is drilled in the tang at the pivot point. This is a crucial step, since after the steel hardening process it would be impossible to drill. This process requires great skill. The steel is hardened through a special process where the forged steel blade is heated up to approximately 760 °C (1,400 °F) depending on the specific steel. This heating enables fast and uniform heating of
3024-423: The scales or handle . The upward curved metal end of the narrow part of the blade beyond the pivot is called the tang and acts as a lever to help raise the blade from the handle. One or two fingers resting on the tang also help stabilize the blade while shaving. The narrow support piece between the tang and the main blade is called the shank , but this reference is often avoided because it can be confusing since
3108-401: The shank is also referred to as tang . The shank sometimes features decorations and the stamp of the brand. The top side and the underside of the shank can sometimes exhibit indentations known as fluting , or jimps for a more secure grip. The curved lower part of the main blade from the shank to the cutting edge is called the shoulder . The point where the shoulder joins the cutting edge
3192-421: The 2012 James Bond film Skyfall , sales of straight razors increased multifold, and that "built into a wave of sustained overdemand that we are still riding today". The increased sales have also led to an increase in the number of associated trades and artisans such as bladesmiths , leather craftsmen, and potters. The design of the straight razor is based on the grind of the blade, the width and length of
3276-584: The 4th millennium BC. The Roman historian Livy reported that the razor was introduced in ancient Rome in the 6th century BC by legendary king Lucius Tarquinius Priscus . Priscus was ahead of his time because razors did not come to general use until a century later. The first narrow-bladed folding straight razors were listed by a Sheffield, England manufacturer in 1680. By the late 1680s, early 1690s, razors with silver-covered handles along with other Sheffield-made products known as "Sheffield wares" were being exported by John Spencer (1655–1729) of Cannon Hall ,
3360-581: The French sometime later; albeit reluctantly at first due to nationalist sentiments. The English manufacturers were even more reluctant than the French to adopt the process and only did so after they saw its success in France. Sheffield steel, a highly polished steel, also known as 'Sheffield silver steel' and famous for its deep gloss finish, is considered a superior quality steel and is still used to this day in France by such manufacturers as Thiers Issard . After their introduction in 1680, straight razors became
3444-430: The French to adopt Huntsman's steel-making process and only did so after they saw its success in France. After their introduction in 1680, straight razors became the principal method of manual shaving for more than two hundred years, and remained in common use until the mid-20th century. Straight razor production eventually fell behind that of the safety razor , which was introduced in the late 19th century and featured
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3528-633: The U.S. Different states in the US vary on their labor and licensing laws. For example, in Maryland and Pennsylvania, a cosmetologist cannot use a straight razor , strictly reserved for barbers. In contrast, in New Jersey both are regulated by the State Board of Cosmetology and there is no longer a legal difference in barbers and cosmetologists, as they are issued the same license and can practice both
3612-458: The U.S. literacy project Barbershop Books, which sets up reading stations in barbershops to promote a culture of reading among African American boys. Public health researchers have also explored barbershops as a venue for sexual health education. In 1893, A. B. Moler of Chicago established a school for barbers. This was the first institution of its kind in the world, and its success was apparent from its very start. It stood for higher education in
3696-430: The art of straight razor shaving, coloring, other chemical work and haircutting if they choose. In Australia, during the mid to late 20th century, the official term for a barber was men's hairdresser ; barber was only a popular title for men's hairdressers. During this time, most would work in either a barbershop or hairdressing salon . The barber's trade has a long history: razors have been found among relics of
3780-520: The barber works. Despite the economic recession in 2008, the barbershop industry has seen continued positive growth. In 2018 there was a trial that had barbers check high blood pressure in barbershops and have a pharmacist meet and treat the patient in the barbershop, with positive results. In 2018, Arthur Rubinoff opened a museum with barber poles and antique barber equipment in Manhattan . The barber Sam Mature , whose interview with Studs Terkel
3864-404: The black barbershop also functioned as a complicated and often contradictory microcosm of the larger world. It is an environment that can bolster egos and be supportive as well as a place where phony men can be destroyed, or at least highly shamed, from participation in verbal contests and other contests of skill. It is a retreat, a haven, an escape from nagging wives and the cares of the world. It
3948-405: The blade is defined as the distance between the back of the blade and the cutting edge. It is expressed in units of eighth of an inch. The sizes vary from 3 ⁄ 8 in (9.5 mm) up to 7 ⁄ 8 in (22 mm), rarely 8 ⁄ 8 in (25 mm). A wider blade can carry more lather, much like a scoop, during multiple successive shaving strokes and thus it allows
4032-414: The blade is polished to various degrees of gloss. The finest finish, used in the most expensive razors, is the mirror finish. Mirror finish is the only finish used if gold leafing is to be part of the decoration of the blade. Satin finish requires less polishing time and therefore is not as expensive to produce. This finish is mostly used with black acid etching. Satin finish can sometimes be applied, as
4116-568: The blade, the handle, which also affects the balance of the razor, the material of the blade, and the finish and degree of polish of the blade material. Straight grinds range from true wedge, through near wedge, quarter hollow, half hollow, full hollow, and extra hollow. As the grind gets more hollowed, the blade becomes more flexible and the edge more delicate, making it shave closer but require more skill in sharpening and use, and reducing its suitability for heavy beards. Blades are usually categorised by grind, size, and blade shape. Sizing of
4200-541: The cost of barber school. Most barber schools cost between $ 6,500 and $ 10,000 to complete. Because each state has different minimums for training hours, the length and cost of the program can vary accordingly. Some schools' tuition includes supplies and textbooks, whereas others do not. Barber license exam fees typically range from $ 50 to $ 150. Length – Most states require the same amount of training hours for barbers as they do for cosmetologists. The number of hours required ranges from 800 to 2,000 training hours, depending on
4284-432: The craft. It is a symbol from the time when barbers used to perform medical procedures. The white and red stripes represent bandages and blood while the blue stripes represent veins. The pole may be stationary or may rotate, often with the aid of an electric motor . A spinning barber pole creates a visual illusion , in which the stripes appear to be traveling up or down the length of the pole, rather than around it. In
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#17328013864484368-429: The cutting edge compared to the other grades. This is considered the most expensive blade. At the highest end of hollow ground, more hollow than even the 1 ⁄ 1 grade, is the so-called singing razor, so named because its blade produces a specific resonant tone when plucked, similar to a guitar string , however such use is not recommended as it can distort the cutting edge. Its manufacturing process
4452-432: The degree of curvature — and therefore hollowness, or thinness — of the sides of the cross section of the blade). Straight razors are, at first, categorised according to their blade profiles, from the head of the spine to the blade toe, based on their point, or nose, type. The following are the main types of blade profiles called points, or nose shapes: The second category refers to
4536-460: The development of safety razors and the decreasing prevalence of beards in Anglophonic cultures, most barbers now specialize in cutting men's scalp hair as opposed to facial hair . In modern times, the term "barber" is used both as a professional title and to refer to hairdressers who specialize in men's hair. Historically, all hairdressers were considered barbers. In the 20th century,
4620-462: The duties of the barber included neck manipulation, cleansing of ears and scalp, draining of boils, fistula and lancing of cysts with wicks. Barbershops were influential at the turn of the 19th century in the United States as African American businesses that helped to develop African American culture and economy. According to Trudier Harris, "In addition to its status as a gathering place,
4704-436: The fabric structure, less pilling and decreased contamination through removal of fluff and lint. The process is usually to pass one or both sides of a fabric over a gas flame to burn off the protruding fibres. Other methods include infra-red or heat for thermoplastic fibers. Singeing of yarns is called " gassing ". It is usually the first step after weaving or knitting , though the fabric may be brushed first to raise
4788-572: The flat side of rotating round stones, or by drawing the blade across stationary flat stones. The cutting edge is finished using a strop . Sharpening is usually not completed during manufacturing, instead being done after purchase. Handle scales are made of various materials, including mother-of-pearl , Bakelite , celluloid , bone, plastic, wood, horn, acrylic, ivory and tortoise shell . Celluloid can spontaneously combust at elevated temperatures. Buffalo horn tends to deform with time and it possesses form memory so it tends to warp. Mother of pearl
4872-425: The greater the thermal deformation that can occur due to changing temperatures, a fact that can lead to loss of edge sharpness. The weight of the blade is inversely proportional to the pressure that is applied during shaving. The heavier the blade, the lighter the pressure that needs to be applied during shaving. The degree of hollowness and thus the cross sectional area (thickness) of the blade vary depending on
4956-404: The grinding method used. Higher degree of hollowness in the blade implies a thinner cross section and this affects the stability ( bending or buckling properties) of the blade; the thinner the blade the more flexible it is. The length and weight of the blade and handle and their relation to each other determines the balance of the straight razor. The cutting area of the razor is proportional to
5040-432: The handle. The blade can be made of either stainless steel , which is resistant to rust but can be more difficult to hone, or high-carbon steel, which is much easier to hone and obtains a sharper edge, but will rust more easily than stainless steel if neglected. Cheap stainless steel straight razors from Asia and more expensive stainless steel and carbon steel razors from Europe are available. A razor blade starts as
5124-522: The late 19th and early 20th century, barbershops became a common business in the United States where people would go to have their hair cut by a professional barber with good equipment. People would also play board games , talk about recent events, or gossip. They have also occasionally been used for public debates or voicing public concerns. Most modern barbershops have special barber chairs , and special equipment for rinsing and washing hair. In some barbershops, people can read magazines or watch TV while
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#17328013864485208-430: The length of the blade, therefore, a longer blade requires less frequent honing since its cutting edge does not deplete as fast as that of a shorter blade. For hollow-ground blades stability is augmented by a transverse stabiliser in the form of one or two narrow strips of thicker metal running from the back of the blade to the end of the shoulder (at the junction where the blade meets the shank). This piece, if present,
5292-403: The middle and acts as a bridge between them. When folded into the scales, the blade is protected from accidental damage, and the user is protected from accidental injury. During folding, the back of the blade, being thick and normally with a curved cross-section, acts as a natural stopper and prevents further rotation of the blade out of the handle from the other side. The frictional force between
5376-718: The modern straight razors include bronze razors, with cutting edges and fixed handles, produced by craftsmen from Ancient Egypt during the New Kingdom (1569 — 1081 BC). Solid gold and copper razors were also found in Ancient Egyptian tombs dating back to the 4th millennium BC. The first steel-edged cutthroat razors were manufactured in Sheffield in 1680. By the late 1680s, early 1690s, razors with silver-covered handles along with other Sheffield-made products known as "Sheffield wares" were being exported to ports in
5460-503: The number of associated trades and artisans such as bladesmiths , leather craftsmen, and potters. Forums and outlets provide products, directions, and advice to straight razor users. Straight razor manufacturers exist in Europe , Asia , and North America . Antique straight razors are also actively traded. Straight razors require considerable skill to hone and strop , and require more care during shaving. Straight razor design and use
5544-549: The principal method of manual shaving for more than two hundred years, and remained in common use until the mid-20th century. Electric razors have also cut into the straight razor's market share , especially since the 1950s. A variant of the European straight-edge was developed by a brother of Ghezo and it was employed as a weapon by the Dahomey Amazons . This variant was significantly larger and carried over
5628-455: The product was featured in the 2012 James Bond film Skyfall and have remained high since. Straight razors are also perceived as a better value and a more sustainable and efficient product. Dovo in Germany reports that since a production low of less than 8,000 units per year in 2006, the company sells 3,000 units per month, and has 110,000 orders with production lead time of three years. The increased sales have also led to an increase in
5712-446: The profession of cosmetology branched off from barbering, and today hairdressers may be licensed as either barbers or cosmetologists. Barbers differ with respect to where they work, which services they are licensed to provide, and what name they use to refer to themselves. Part of this terminology difference depends on the regulations in a given location. In the early 1900s, an alternative word for barber, "chirotonsor", came into use in
5796-409: The ranks, and the parent school was rapidly followed by branches in nearly every principal city of the United States. In the beginning of barber schools, only the practical work of shaving, hair-cutting, facial treatments, etc., was taught as neither the public nor the profession was ready to accept scientific treatments of hair, skin and scalp. Not until about 1920 was much effort made to professionalize
5880-406: The ridge and the back of the blade is inversely proportional to the hollowness of the blade and is described in fractional terms in ascending steps of 1 ⁄ 4 as, for example, 1 ⁄ 4 hollow, 1 ⁄ 2 hollow, or 4 ⁄ 4 or 1 ⁄ 1 (full hollow). Full hollow indicates that the stabilizing ridge is very close to the midsection of the blade and the farthest from
5964-504: The same degree of sharpness for as long, because as the cutting edge erodes it can eventually reach the stabilising ridge faster where there is more material and thus the cutting-edge bevel cannot be maintained without excessive honing of the stabilising ridge to remove the additional material, which could also destabilise the rest of the blade. However, the partially hollow blade is more stable because its additional material makes it stiffer , and thus more resistant to deformation. In addition
6048-435: The scales and the tang applied about the pivot is called the tension and it determines how freely the blade rotates about the point of rotation. A proper amount of tension should be present, for safety reasons, to ensure that the blade does not spin freely when opening or closing. Straight razors consist of a blade sharpened on one edge and a handle attached to the blade through a pin. The blade can then rotate in and out of
6132-400: The shank-to-blade junction, covering the shank and just spilling over to the shoulder. The second stabiliser can be distinguished since it is considerably wider, thinner, and longer, appearing after the first stabiliser and running lower toward the heel. The arched, non-cutting top of the blade is called the back or the spine while the cutting part of the blade opposite the back is called
6216-529: The shoulder. When folded, the razor measured about 24–30 inches long and it weighed over 20 pounds. When extended, the blade measured 4–5 feet. Straight razors eventually fell out of fashion. Their first challenger was manufactured by King C. Gillette : a double-edged safety razor with replaceable blades. These new safety razors did not require any serious tutelage to use. The blades were extremely hard to sharpen, and were meant to be thrown away after one use, and rusted quickly if not discarded. They also required
6300-727: The state's licensing requirements. Most programs can be completed in 15 months or fewer. Curriculum – The barber school curriculum consists of hair cutting, coloring and styling for men's hair and women's short hair. Chemical processes such as bleaching, dyeing, lightening and relaxing hair may also be taught. All cosmetology disciplines learn safety and sanitation best practices. Barber students can expect to learn some elements of anatomy, physiology, bacteriology and some small elements of pharmacology. It also teaches facial hair techniques, including traditional and modern shaves. Generally barber programs touch on scalp massage and treatments. Advanced barber training may include custom shave designs. It
6384-511: The steel at the optimum temperature for maximum hardness. The tempering stage follows the hardening process, where the blade is heated in a bath of oil at a temperature between 200–400 °C (392–752 °F). Tempering imparts the steel its flexibility and toughness according to the phase diagrams for steel. There are three types of steel blade according to the level of tempering it has received. Hard-tempered, medium-tempered and soft-tempered. Hard-tempered edges last longer but sharpening them
6468-725: The streets for low prices. Starting from the Middle Ages , barbers often served as surgeons and dentists . In addition to haircutting, hairdressing, and shaving, barbers performed surgery , bloodletting and leeching , fire cupping , enemas , and the extraction of teeth ; earning them the name " barber surgeons ". Barber-surgeons began to form powerful guilds such as the Worshipful Company of Barbers in London. Barbers received higher pay than surgeons until surgeons were entered into British warships during naval wars. Some of
6552-399: The surface fibres. Cellulose fibres such as cotton are easily singed because the protruding fibers burn to a light ash which is easily removed. Thermoplastic fibres are harder to singe because they melt and form hard residues on the fabric surface. Barber A barber is a person whose occupation is mainly to cut, dress, groom, style and shave hair or beards. A barber's place of work
6636-426: The type of grinding method used and, since it affects the curvature of the blade cross section, includes the following two main types of blade grinds: The combination of the types found in these two classification categories can, in theory, lead to a wide variety of blade types such as round point hollow ground, square point flat ground etc., but in practice some points are combined with a specific grind. As an example,
6720-405: The user more shaving time and minimises blade rinse cycles. The disadvantage of the wider blade is that it is not as manoeuvrable as a narrower blade. A narrow blade can shave tight facial spots such as under the nose, but it must be rinsed more often. The most popular blade width size is 5 ⁄ 8 in (16 mm). The width of the blade can also affect its sharpness. The wider the blade,
6804-464: The work. Training to be a barber is achieved through various means around the world. In the US, barber training is carried out at "barber schools". Cost – Many states require a barber license in order to practice barbering professionally. The cost of barber school varies from state to state, and also from metro area to metro area. Schools in larger metropolitan areas tend to cost more than those located in more rural towns. Brand names can also affect
6888-923: Was introduced to Rome by the Greek colonies in Sicily in 296 BC, and barbershops ( Latin : tonstrīna , lit. "clipperies") quickly became very popular centers for daily news and gossip. A morning visit to the barber ( tonsor ) became a part of the daily routine, as important as the visit to the public baths , and a young man's first shave ( tonsura ) was considered an essential part of his coming of age ceremony. Roman barbers employed rudimentary mirrors and wielded combs, razors, scissors, curling irons, specialized tools for beard removal and pomata to remove unwanted hair elsewhere. A few Roman barbers became wealthy and influential, running shops that were favorite public locations of high society . Most, however, were simple tradesmen who owned small storefronts or worked in
6972-498: Was once a major portion of the curriculum in barber colleges. Various forms of razors were used throughout history, which are different in appearance but similar in use to modern straight razors. In prehistoric times clam shells, shark's teeth, and flint were sharpened and used for shaving. Drawings of such blades were found in prehistoric caves. Some tribes still use blades made of flint to this day. Excavations in Egypt have unearthed solid gold and copper razors in tombs dating back to
7056-600: Was published in Terkel's 1974 book Working , says "A man used to get a haircut every couple weeks. Now he waits a month or two, some of 'em even longer than that. A lot of people would get manicured and fixed up every week. Most of these people retired, moved away, or died. It's all on account of long hair. You take old-timers, they wanted to look neat, to be presentable. Now people don't seem to care too much." Given their importance as social hubs in certain cultures, barbershops have been used in educational campaigns. These include
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