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Ganguro

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Alternative fashion or alt fashion is fashion that stands apart from mainstream, commercial fashion. It includes both styles which do not conform to the mainstream fashion of their time and the styles of specific subcultures (such as emo , goth , hip hop and punk ). Some alternative fashion styles are attention-grabbing and more artistic than practical ( goth , ganguro , rivethead ), while some develop from anti-fashion sentiments that focus on simplicity and utilitarianism ( grunge , rocker , skinhead ).

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51-510: Ganguro ( ガングロ ) is an alternative fashion trend among young Japanese women which peaked in popularity around the year 2000 and evolved from gyaru . The Shibuya and Ikebukuro districts of Tokyo were the centres of ganguro fashion; it was started by rebellious youth who contradicted the traditional Japanese concept of beauty; pale skin , dark hair and neutral makeup tones. Ganguro instead tanned their skin, bleached their hair and used colourful makeup in unusual ways. Ganguro has

102-470: A bihaku (light skin) craze emerged among young women who wanted to imitate the look of their favourite popular singers, specifically Ayumi Hamasaki , who debuted at the time. The ganguro trend faded out afterwards, although its influence can be observed in yamanba style. Ganguro appeared as a new fashion style in Japan in the mid-1990s and was prevalent mostly among young women. In ganguro fashion,

153-406: A break from the beliefs or mores of popular culture and as a form of self-expression that challenged the boundaries of what was considered appropriate, fashionable or practical. The use of subculture terminology in the 21st century to categorize or interpret dress style is often inaccurate, or at the least does not provide a complete picture of the individual being assessed by their 'look,' due to

204-504: A challenge to modern conceptions of aesthetic beauty and/or a basic form of self-expression, like painting or writing. Traditionally alternative clothing, shoes and accessories have been largely procured from independently owned businesses, such as the boutiques found in artistic districts of large urban centers. As some alternative fashion have become increasingly embraced by the mainstream, these types of small, specialized retailers have become displaced much like mainstream retail outlets by

255-480: A connection to Japanese folklore of ghosts and demons who are depicted with a similar appearance, such as those in kabuki and noh costumes. This connection is further underlined by the off-shoot style yamanba , named after a mountain witch in Japanese folklore. The ganguro trend started in the mid-1990s and reached its peak by the latter half of the decade; it purportedly became almost obsolete by 2000 when

306-547: A darker tan, and no facial stickers. Hair was usually neon/bright colors, with pink being a favorite. Wool-emulating dreadlocks, extensions, and clips were worn to make the hair appear longer. Clothing remained the same, although leis were worn less frequently. The male equivalent is called a Sentaa Guy ( センターガイ ), a pun on the name of a popular pedestrian shopping street near Shibuya Station in Tokyo called Center Gai ( センター街 , Sentā-gai ) . Ganguro practitioners say that

357-437: A deep tan is combined with hair dyed in shades of red to blonde, or a silver grey known as "high bleached". Black ink is used as eyeliner and white concealer is used as lipstick and eyeshadow. False eyelashes , plastic facial gems, and pearl powder are often added to this. Platform shoes and brightly coloured outfits complete the ganguro look. Also typical of ganguro fashion are tie-dyed sarongs , miniskirts, stickers on

408-435: A direct influence on the ganguro . Other popular ganguro magazines include Popteen and Ego System . The ganguro culture is often linked with para para , a Japanese dance style. However, most para para dancers are not ganguro, and most ganguro are not para para dancers, though there are many who are ganguro or gal and dance para para. One of the most famous early ganguro girls was known as Buriteri, nicknamed after

459-604: A human figure being hit by an atomic bomb, was unveiled in its new permanent location at the station, in the connecting passage to the Keio Inokashira Line entrance. There are two island platforms with a total of four tracks. One of the platforms serves the Yamanote Line and the other serves the Saikyō Line and Shōnan–Shinjuku Line . The station was opened in 1885 with one island platform serving what

510-546: A media frenzy focusing on drug use in the rave community. These factors led to an insurgence of young people interested in emulating rave style, and obtaining the substances associated with it, rather than in promoting the utopian precepts originally associated with raves. Alternative fashion is expressed, discussed, viewed and proliferated through many of the same channels as mainstream fashion, such as fashion shows , websites, blogs and magazines, however in non-mainstream forms of these spaces, fueled by personal creativity. It

561-416: A permanent post-adolescent basis. Alternative fashion generally lays down a challenge to accepted norms, though the reactions received by wearers of alternative fashion from those who adhere to more conventional stylings can be as diverse as the wearers themselves. It can be a visual language that people employ to communicate with each other indicating common interests or involvement with similar activities,

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612-522: A place in alternative fashion to the point where the use of mismatched second-hand clothing is considered cliche to alternative and liberal ideologies. Many forms of alternative fashion gain attention, and even notoriety, through their relationship to individuals or groups that are seen as socially undesirable – those involved in behavior considered criminal, deviant or anti-social – even though these types of behaviors may not be common among those involved in alternative fashion. For instance, greasers of

663-440: A positive expansion of what is socially acceptable, and easily available, fashion. Others consider the involvement of mainstream institutions in alternative fashion as a desecration of what the concept stands for and feel the mass marketing of previously underground styles, particularly to impressionable youth markets who are more concerned with a look than the meaning behind it, amounts to a non-violent form of cultural genocide. When

714-643: A previously non-mainstream style becomes popular the core group of a certain alternative niche may be watered down with dozens or even hundreds of individuals who are not genuinely invested in the advancement of alternative culture or its precepts of individuality and present an image of the subculture not at all related to its traditional members' behaviors. For instance, rave culture was heavily associated with ideas of racial, gender and sexual orientation equality and encouraged unity, creativity and individuality amongst its members. The commodification of rave fashions in chain outlets and internet boutiques coincided with

765-617: A result, Yamanote Line service was suspended between Ikebukuro and Osaki. To accommodate for delays, an additional special train service was run between Shinagawa and Shinjuku by way of the Yamanote Freight Line. Effective the timetable revision on 18 March 2023, through services onto the Sagami Railway commenced courtesy of the Tokyu and Sotetsu Shin-yokohama Line . Most southbound services routing through Hiyoshi on

816-884: A small niche community, may influence personal style. Alternative fashion is often considered a modern concept but it, and the concept of subculture it is often related to, have existed for centuries. As covered in Ken Gelder's exploration of the history of alternative culture patterns in Western society, Subcultures: Cultural Histories and Social Practice , alternative fashions have often been used to identify, and even stereotype, members of groups with value systems that diverged from common culture. Gelder states that alternative fashions have traditionally been related to subcultures that have been identified by mass society as: Those who utilize alternative fashion may vary greatly in beliefs and not identify with any of these concepts. Often it

867-445: A whole, though extremely diverse in religious and social beliefs, was pigeonholed by the media as a dangerous influence on children. Mainstream culture , particularly retailers and the mass media , have often looked to alternative fashion for up and coming trends and, increasingly, as an easy way to market products to a niche group that may not be having its tastes supplied elsewhere. Some in subcultures view this as flattering and as

918-504: Is a major railway station in Shibuya , Tokyo , Japan, operated by East Japan Railway Company (JR East), Keio Corporation , Tokyu Corporation , and Tokyo Metro . It serves as a terminal for six railway lines, five of which are operated by Tokyo Metro and Tokyu Corporation. The railway was recorded to cater an average of 2.4 million passengers on a weekday in 2004. It was considered as the fourth-busiest commuter rail station in Japan and

969-429: Is a more extreme style that evolved from ganguro . Old school yamanba featured deep tans and white lipstick, pastel eye makeup, tiny metallic or glittery adhesives below the eyes, brightly colored circle lenses , vibrant clothing, and incongruous accessories, such as Hawaiian leis . While yamanba faded in popularity it also started to become more extreme, with multicolored and usually synthetic hair. Manba in 2008 saw

1020-523: Is common for projects related to alternative fashion to be independently run by individuals or small groups and to be offered to the public cheaply or free of charge. However, just as alternative fashion has been commodified by chain stores , some level of commercialization may exist within outlets of alternative fashion seeking to exploit certain styles as "the next big thing" or taking financial advantage of customers with limited options. Shibuya Station Shibuya Station ( 渋谷駅 , Shibuya-eki )

1071-542: Is connected to the east gate of the station and several other department stores are within walking distance. The Shibuya River flows directly under the station, to the east and parallel to the JR tracks. Unlike most other Japanese department stores, the east block of Tokyu Department Store closed in 2013, and due for demolition as a part of the Shibuya Station redevelopment plan, did not have basement retail space due to

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1122-621: Is in the process of rebuilding the station, with reconstruction work starting in earnest in fiscal year 2015. On the platform of the Toyoko Line, which was moved to the east side of the station, Tokyu Corporation constructed a 230-meter (754 ft 7 in) high, 47-story commercial building " Shibuya Scramble Square ", which became the tallest building in Shibuya when it opened in November 2019. Several commercial buildings connected to

1173-573: Is now the Yamanote Line. To alleviate congestion, a second side platform was opened to the west in July 1940 and the original platform was converted to a side platform. In March 1996, the first Saikyō Line platform was opened. It was located to the south of the Yamanote Line platforms, approximately 350 m (1,148 ft 4 in) away. This platform was relocated to its current location during 30-31 May 2020. The original Yamanote Line platform

1224-478: Is the mass social perceptions of the meaning of certain fashions and their relation to a particular niche group that is important in understanding the interaction of alternative fashion with mass culture - a fashion is often more remembered for what it is related to in the popular consciousness than what its wearer's intended it to stand for. Particularly in a sociopolitical sense alternative fashion has often been intentionally adopted by an individual or group to display

1275-488: Is their attempt at individuality, self-expression, and freedom, in open defiance of school standards and regulations. Ganguro can be used to describe girls, or gals, with tan, lightened hair and some brand clothing; they can often be confused with Oneegyaru (Big Sister Gal) and Serebu (Celeb), although Oneegyaru is usually associated with expensive gal brands and Serebu focuses on expensive western fashions. Fashion magazines like Egg and Ageha have had

1326-486: Is viewed as "normal" society. Many styles are influenced by music and the dress style of individual bands or musicians. While the qualities of individuality and open-mindedness are associated with alternative fashion, levels of conformity within subcultures, judgemental behaviors and expressions of feelings of superiority exist within certain alternative fashion communities just as they exist in aspects of mainstream fashion and culture. Pressure to 'fit in,' even just within

1377-470: The Tokyu Group , opened in 2012 and contains department store retail, restaurants, and offices. The Tokyo Metro Ginza Line , originally built and operated by a Tokyu keiretsu company, continues to use platforms on the third floor of the station building. The JR lines are on the second floor in a north-south orientation. The Tokyu Toyoko Line originally used parallel platforms on the second floor of

1428-617: The 1950s were associated with street gangs and random acts of juvenile violence, hippies of the 1960s (along with ravers of the 1980–1990s) with promiscuity , anti-establishment agendas and, especially, drug use and those sporting hip hop style with the selling of drugs and other criminal behavior. There was a wave of anti- gothic policies and commentary in the wake of the Columbine High School massacre . The crime, perpetrated by two young men dressed in black trench coats who were known to be fans of heavy, dark themed music,

1479-527: The Den-en-toshi Line station was used by an average of 665,645 passengers daily. The daily passenger figures for each operator in previous years are as shown below. Found in online news in the middle of 2024, Shibuya is one of the 50 busiest train stations in the world with an average number of 3 million people using the station everyday, second to Shinjuku . Surrounding the station is the commercial center of Shibuya. The Tokyu Department Store

1530-571: The Fukutoshin/Tōyoko Line are given 60 min to do so outside the fare control area, but those needing to transfer to Hanzōmon/Den-en-toshi Line should transfer at the Omotesando station instead. In 2013 and 2014, Shibuya station underwent major renovations as a part of a long-term site redevelopment plan. While all rail and subway lines continued to operate, some station exits and entrances were changed for improvement. As of March 2013,

1581-523: The Ginza Line platforms were shifted about 50 meters (164 ft 1 in) east of the old platforms. On 1 June 2020, the Saikyo Line platforms were shifted about 350 meters (1,148 ft 4 in) north of the old platforms, and now sits right next to the Yamanote Line platforms. Major widening work took place on the Yamanote Line inner circle platform (Platform 2) on 23–24 October 2021. As

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1632-585: The Internet. Also, as fashion trends are co-opted by more and more people chain stores, which may offer a wider variety of products at a lower price and are easier to access in non-urban areas than boutiques, began to soak up a large part of the alternative fashion market. This change in the availability and commodification of alternative fashions has encouraged much broader use of styles in the mainstream once only found in niche groups. Items from thrift & vintage shops, altered and DIY fashions have also long held

1683-703: The Tokyu Shin-yokohama Line continue as far south as Shōnandai Station on the Sōtetsu Izumino Line . The former above-ground Tokyu Toyoko Line terminal station platforms were taken out of use after the last train service on 15 March 2013. From the start of the revised timetable on 16 March 2013, Toyoko Line services used the underground platforms 3-4 shared with Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line services. The station had four 8-car long bay platforms numbered 1 to 4, serving four tracks. JR East

1734-629: The Toyoko Line (1927), and the Teito Shibuya Line (1 August 1933; now the Inokashira Line). Between 1925 and 1935, the legendary Akita dog named Hachikō waited for his deceased owner, appearing at the station right when his train was due for nine years. In 1938, the station added platforms for the Tōkyō Rapid Railway, which began through service with the Ginza Line in 1939 and formally merged with it in 1941. In 1946,

1785-417: The black soy sauce used to flavor yellowtail fish in teriyaki cooking. Egg made her a star by frequently featuring her in its pages during the height of the ganguro craze. After modeling and advertising for the Shibuya tanning salon "Blacky", social pressure and negative press convinced Buriteri to retire from the ganguro lifestyle. Yamanba ( ヤマンバ ) , also sometimes shortened to just manba ( マンバ ) ,

1836-497: The constant evolution in the meaning, relevance and cohesion of certain subcultures and even the term 'subculture' itself. Alternative fashion is often looked at through the lens of social politics - it is considered a visual expression of opposition to societal norms, thus heavily associated with the idealism, energy and rebellion of youth culture. However, sociological studies into exploring alternative fashion have found individuals who retained statistically uncommon modes of dress on

1887-561: The distance between Ginza and Hanzomon Line platforms, the transfer announcements was announced at Omote-sando station instead. The Keio station consists of two bay platforms serving two tracks. On 1 March 1885, Shibuya Station first opened as a stop on the Shinagawa Line, a predecessor of the present-day Yamanote Line . The station was later expanded to accommodate the Tamagawa Railway (1907; closed 1969),

1938-626: The east side of the main station was transformed due to the provision of through train services between the Tokyu Toyoko Line and the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line . While much of the main station building, previously housing the Tokyu department store, had been closed and was set for demolition, the west building of the Tokyu department store continued to operate as before. The Shibuya Hikarie building, also owned by

1989-448: The face, and many bracelets, rings, and necklaces. Ganguro falls into the larger subculture of gyaru ( ギャル , from English "gal") , a slang term used for various groups of young women, usually referring to overly childish women. Researchers in the field of Japanese studies believe that ganguro is a form of revenge against traditional Japanese society due to resentment of neglect, isolation, and constraint of Japanese society. This

2040-525: The infamous Shibuya incident , a gang fight involving hundreds of people, occurred in front of the station. More recently, the Den-en-toshi Line (1977), the Hanzōmon Line (1978), and the Fukutoshin Line (2008) began serving the station. Between December 2008 and March 2009, piezoelectric mats were installed at Shibuya Station as a small scale test. From 22 February 2013, station numbering

2091-479: The nearby statue of the dog Hachikō and located next to Shibuya's famous scramble crossing , is a particularly popular meeting spot. The Tamagawa Exit ( 玉川口 , Tamagawa-guchi ) on the west side leads to the Keiō Inokashira Line Shibuya Station platforms. On 17 November 2008 (16 years ago)  ( 2008-11-17 ) , a mural by Tarō Okamoto , "The Myth of Tomorrow", depicting

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2142-435: The river passing directly underneath. An escalator in the east block of the store was constructed over the river stops a few steps above floor level to make space for machinery underneath without the need for further excavation. Rivers are deemed public space under Japanese law, so building over one is normally illegal. It is not clear why this was allowed when the store buildings were first constructed in 1933. Various parts of

2193-675: The same building, but effective on 16 March 2013, the Toyoko Line moved underground to provide rail service with the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line . The Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line and Tokyu Den-en-Toshi Line share platforms underground in another part of the station. The Keio Inokashira Line uses platforms on the second floor of the Shibuya Mark City building to the west of the main station complex. The main JR/Tokyu/Tokyo Metro complex has six exits. The northwest Hachikō Exit ( ハチ公口 , Hachikō-guchi ) , named for

2244-407: The station since the opening of the Fukutoshin Line in 2008, and the Toyoko Line uses platforms 3 and 4 since the start of through services with the two lines on 16 March 2013. As of January 2020, one island platform serves two tracks. Until December 2019, two side platforms each served one track, with one platform for terminating services and one for services departing towards Asakusa. Due to

2295-665: The station will be constructed by 2027. In fiscal year 2013, the JR East station was used by 378,539 passengers daily (boarding passengers only), making it the fifth-busiest JR East station. Over the same fiscal year, the Keio station was used by an average of 336,957 passengers daily (exiting and entering passengers), making it the busiest station on the Inokashira Line. In fiscal 2013, the Tokyo Metro Ginza station

2346-602: The term derives from the phrase ganganguro or gangankuro ( ガンガン黒 , exceptionally dark) . The word ganguro can be translated as "burn-black look", and "dark tanning". The term yamanba is derived from Yama-uba , the name of a mountain hag in Japanese folklore whom the fashion is thought to resemble. Alternative fashion Alternative fashion styles often originate as ways of expressing attitudes towards individuality, consumerism, social constructs on behavior, self-expression, and/or disillusionment with what

2397-498: The world (after Shinjuku , Ikebukuro , and Ōsaka / Umeda ). It handles a large population of commuter traffic between the city center and suburbs to the south and west. Note that while the Tokyo Metro Hanzōmon Line and Fukutoshin Line are directly connected to each other (and passengers can switch from one to another without passing through ticket gates ), the Ginza Line station is a standalone terminal. Transfers to

2448-442: Was immediately associated with the gothic subculture in the media despite the shooters' lack of association to the subculture and music. Policies were passed in schools across the country banning dress styles and items associated with the gothic subculture. Many individuals who dressed in any way related to the gothic style, whether or not they associated with this subculture, were targets of fear, anger and suspicion. The subculture as

2499-537: Was introduced on Keio lines, with Shibuya Station becoming "IN01". Station numbering was later introduced to the JR East platforms in 2016 with Shibuya being assigned station numbers JS19 for the Shonan-Shinjuku line, JA10 for the Saikyo line, and JY20 for the Yamanote Line. At the same time, JR East assigned its major transfer stations a 3-letter code; Shibuya was assigned the code "SBY". On 3 January 2020,

2550-451: Was then widened during 23-24 October 2021. It was widened further during 7-8 January 2023, when the west side platform was removed from service and both directions of the Yamanote Line were recombined into a single island platform. On the third basement (B3F) level, a single underground island platform serves two tracks. Two underground island platforms on the fifth basement (B5F) level serve four tracks. Tokyu has been managing

2601-569: Was used by an average of 212,136 passengers daily and the Tokyo Metro Hanzōmon and Fukutoshin stations were used by an average of 731,184 passengers daily. Note that the latter statistics consider passengers who travel through Shibuya station on a through service as users of the station, even if they did not disembark at the station. In fiscal 2013, the Tokyu Toyoko Line station was used by an average of 441,266 passengers daily and

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