63-394: [REDACTED] = Day (before 6 p.m.) [REDACTED] = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie colour [REDACTED] = Ladies [REDACTED] = Gentlemen Academic dress is a traditional form of clothing for academic settings, mainly tertiary (and sometimes secondary ) education, worn mainly by those who have obtained a university degree (or similar), or hold
126-707: A chain of office and, at some occasions, carries a scepter . The cap that accompanies the Talar is called Barett . As is the case with the Talar , which type of cap is used varies by university as well. Historically, caps made of soft materials rather than the square academic cap are common. The colour of the Barett matches the Talar . After the German student movement , following the years of 1967 all West German universities dropped their academic dress because they were identified with right-winged conservatism and reactionism by
189-552: A gown (also known as a robe ) with a separate hood , and usually a cap (generally either a square academic cap , a tam , or a bonnet ). Academic dress is also worn by members of certain learned societies and institutions as official dress. The academic dress found in most universities in the Commonwealth of Nations and the United States is derived from that of the universities of Oxford and Cambridge , which
252-457: A bright colour) to distinguish them from lower degrees. They tend to be the most expensive because they must be dyed in a specific colour and/or be trimmed in coloured silks. Many doctoral gowns have a special undress version so adding to the cost of a full set. A full set may cost about US$ 360 (£180) for cheap materials to as much as $ 5800 (£2900) for high-quality materials. Usually, ex-hire gowns are available for purchase at cheaper prices, though
315-441: A decorated sleeve but without specific faculty colours. Recently established universities may show a greater variety of colours. Academic dress is only worn on ceremonial occasions: the university anniversary or dies natalis , inaugural lectures, and the public defence of a doctoral thesis. On such occasions, the assembled professors line up as a cortège headed by the university beadle , who also wears an academic gown and carries
378-452: A degree but with the incumbency of a professorial chair: only full, chaired professors wear the toga with bib and beret. The beret is usually a soft cap, square or round and made of velvet; the gown (ankle-length, open in the front), is made of wool trimmed with velvet or silk It is traditionally black, as in the robes of early-modern humanists; some universities have gowns with wide slashed sleeves edged in faculty-specific colours, others have
441-461: A gown, a cape or a hood, and a cap with tassel ( pentagon-shaped mortarboard / bonnet ). Other items are also worn during graduation ceremony such as a medallion , tippet or academic stole . There are four elements in Indonesian academic regalia: In Italy there are several differences among the typical academic dress ( gowns , academic caps , etc.) of the different universities, due to
504-452: A potential comeback among men, though "the class conscious man recoils at the idea" of pre-tied bow ties and "[l]eft-wingers ... recoil at what they perceive to be a symbol of political conservatism." He argues that anachronism is the point, and that bow tie wearers are making a public statement of their disdain for changing fashion. Such people may not be economic conservatives, he argues, but they are social conservatives. In Smith's view,
567-444: A prescribed set of dress (known as subfusc ) to be worn under the gown. Although some universities are relaxed about what people wear under their gowns, it is nevertheless considered bad form to be in casual wear or the like during graduation ceremonies, and a number of universities may bar finishing students from joining the procession or the ceremony itself if not appropriately dressed (though this sometimes refers only to requiring
630-416: A range of types including artificial silk / rayon , Ottoman (i.e. ribbed or corded silk), taffeta , satin , alpaca , true silk , shot silk , or a mixture. Pure Ottoman silk is rarely used except for official gowns, as it is very expensive. Some gowns may be trimmed with gimp lace , cords, buttons, or other forms of decoration. In the past, fur has been used to line certain hoods (especially those of
693-558: A simple black gown, a square academic cap , and possibly a stole in faculty colour. At most other universities, faculties are responsible for organizing graduation ceremonies individually. Some faculties have decided for wearing academic dress at their ceremonies as well, e.g., the Faculty of Law at University of Marburg and the Faculty of Economics and Business Administration at Goethe University Frankfurt . This practice
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#1732779760681756-455: A status that entitles them to assume them (e.g., undergraduate students at certain old universities). It is also known as academical dress , academicals , or academic regalia . Contemporarily, it is commonly seen only at graduation ceremonies, but formerly academic dress was, and to a lesser degree in many ancient universities still is, worn daily. Today, the ensembles are distinctive in some way to each institution, and generally consist of
819-494: Is a list of the general hood colours of graduates: Most colleges and universities in the Philippines follow the traditional mortarboard , hood and gown during graduation. In some schools of the country, the colour of the gown corresponds to the school colour (Blue for Colegio de San Juan de Letran and Ateneo de Manila University , Green for Far Eastern University , and Red for San Beda University ). Some schools, like
882-428: Is commonly understood as following Anglo-American examples rather than reviving old traditions. Indian universities followed United Kingdom robe and gown system until 2013 when Banaras Hindu University replaced it with Indian traditional dress of Kurta , Dhoti , Pyajama for men and Saree for women, which led to students at other universities demanding similar dresses. Slowly Indian universities started replacing
945-591: Is for graduands in all degrees up to and including the master's degree to have black gowns, while the PhD candidate wears a scarlet gown. These days, academic dress is only used at graduation ceremonies. The wearing of traditional African attire, or modern clothes inspired by traditional attire, beneath the academic dress has been a distinct trend in recent years. The typical Spanish academic dress has Latin origin. It has been regulated since 1850, when Queen Isabella II established several rules about academic dress, according to
1008-491: Is identical to that of the hood for the Cambridge Master of Arts. A Bachelor's degree hood is lined with coloured satin and bordered with white fur (the exception to this are Canterbury and Waikato University which do not line their hoods with fur). The bachelor's degree with Honours hood is lined with coloured satin and bordered with white satin. The master's degree hood has no edging. A doctoral degree recipient wears
1071-697: Is not used. In Portugal, following an ancient tradition, university regular students also use a specific dressing. The "traje académico", as it is known in Portuguese, is recognized by its almost totally black color and cape. But other student dresses did exist, including the unique blue attire of the students of the University of Algarve (UAlg) in use until at least to the 2010s. Academic dress in South Africa varies from one institution to another, but generally follow UK patterns. A common distinction
1134-447: Is of a similar fashion to the bow tie but has a larger knot and drooping ends. To its devotees, the bow tie suggests iconoclasm of an Old World sort, a fusty adherence to a contrarian point of view. The bow tie hints at intellectualism , real or feigned, and sometimes suggests technical acumen, perhaps because it is so hard to tie. Bow ties are worn by magicians, country doctors, lawyers and professors and by people hoping to look like
1197-779: Is the following In Malaysia, most public university academic gowns incorporate Songket motifs, apart from being influenced by the academic dress system in the United Kingdom which incoporates Tudor bonnets for doctorates and mortarboard for Masters and Bachelor's Degrees holder. For instance, university chancellors who were royal heads of state usually incoporates yellow-colour academic gown to denote their royal status. Certain universities, especially Universiti Teknologi MARA , Universiti Utara Malaysia and Universiti Malaysia Kelantan includes an academic sash as academic regalia specifically for first class bachelor's degree holders. At Dutch universities, academic dress does not come with
1260-570: Is the use of the Sablay . The Sablay was inspired from the Malong of Muslim Mindanao, giving it a Filipiniana look. It features the indigenous baybayin characters for "U" and "P". During the commencement ceremony, graduates wear the Sablay at the right shoulder, it is then moved to the left shoulder after the President of the university confers their degree, "similar to the moving of the tassel of
1323-549: Is usually woven using 40% cotton and 60% wool (or similar compositions depending on the weaver). It is mainly used in the making of high quality black academical dress , as well as clerical dress and legal dress in the United Kingdom . It is woven using thicker strands so is heavier than princetta . Russell cord is a hardwearing fabric and generally keeps its shape for many years, unlike cotton or polyester which creases easily. This article about textiles
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#17327797606811386-488: The German Supreme Court are, e.g., completely dark red). The professorial Talar can be described as a long black gown with wide sleeves, often with lapels in faculty colour, while deans wear a Talar completely in faculty colour. Rectors typically have a distinguished, more elaborate Talar , e.g., made of velvet, coloured in red, or with gold embroidery. At some universities, the rector additionally wears
1449-495: The Talar for officials. Some traditional universities in West German states have since followed, such as University of Heidelberg . Since 2005, some universities introduced centrally organized graduation ceremonies for students of all faculties where academic dress is worn, most notably University of Bonn , Chemnitz University of Technology , and RWTH Aachen (only cap and stole ). The graduates' dress usually consists of
1512-664: The Thirty Years' War of the 17th century: the Croat mercenaries used a scarf around the neck to hold together the opening of their shirts. This was soon adopted (under the name cravat , derived from the French for " Croat ") by the upper classes in France, then a leader in fashion , and flourished in the 18th and 19th centuries. It is uncertain whether the cravat then evolved into the bow tie and four-in-hand necktie , or whether
1575-524: The University of Santo Tomas , due to their Spanish heritage, follow Spanish academic attire such as the academic biretta and mozetta . The biretta and mozetta are worn by those from the Graduate School and the Faculty of Medicine and Surgery. Graduates of the Bachelors' programs wear the traditional mortarboard, hood and gown. The professors of the university wear their academic regalia during
1638-465: The dies natalis ). University graduates in New Zealand wear an academic gown identical to those of the University of Cambridge and either a hood or scarf, depending on whether the graduate is receiving a degree or diploma. If the graduate is receiving a degree, a hood will be worn throughout the ceremony. If a diploma is received, the graduate will wear a diploma scarf. The hood, like the gown,
1701-541: The grand costume is equivalent to white tie , whereas the petit costume is equivalent to black tie . German academic dress generally consists of gown and cap. Nowadays, if in use at all, it is only found at special occasions, such as public processions, inaugurations of rectors, and graduation ceremonies. Historically, only the rectors, deans, professors, and lecturers wore academic dress—not students or graduates. Each German university had its own system of colours and drapings to signify faculty membership and position in
1764-514: The "bat wing", which is parallel-sided like a cricket bat , and the "thistle", also known as the "butterfly". An example of each can also be seen below. Which is worn is a matter of personal preference. Some other shapes do exist; for instance, the Diamond Point, with pointed tips at both ends. This is a double-ended type, with both ends shaped, though occasionally, ties are tied in the single-ended type, in which only one end flares out to give
1827-646: The Missa de Apertura or the Opening Mass of the Academic Year aside from Solemn Investitures (graduation ceremonies) and other academic activities. The academic colours are unique to this university as these depend on the official color of the faculty or college a student or an academe belongs into. A unique graduation garb worn at member universities of the University of the Philippines System
1890-546: The UK) which range from rabbit to ermine . In the past, sheepskin was widely used. Most now use imitation fur, instead, mainly because of cost and animal rights concerns. Some robe makers use fur if the customer requests and pays for it, as some feel that the quality and feel of artificial fur has yet to match that of real fur. Doctor's robes usually use wool flannel , panama wool (worsted), superfine cloth, damask , or brocade , and are brightly coloured (or black, but faced with
1953-602: The University of Toronto, academic gowns are still required for all students and faculty at Wednesday dinners, most college meetings, debates, and certain special college events. Most Canadian universities follow or adopted either the British University academic dress at Oxford or Cambridge universities, or the Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume ratified by most American universities in
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2016-403: The above. But perhaps most of all, wearing a bow tie is a way of broadcasting an aggressive lack of concern for what other people think. Popular perception tends to associate bow tie wearers with particular professions , such as architects, debt collectors, attorneys, university professors, teachers, waiters, and politicians. Pediatricians frequently wear bow ties, for infants cannot grab them
2079-490: The academic cap." The Sablay is worn over traditional Filipino attire – barong tagalog for men and Filipiniana dress for women. The garb was first worn at the University of the Philippines Diliman . Other UP campuses followed suit. Elementary and high school students also wear a certain kind of academic dress upon their graduation, usually a white gown and mortarboard for public schools. For private schools,
2142-672: The academic field in which the wearer graduated. It is nowadays little worn, except by doctors during the opening of the university year or the ceremony for a doctorate honoris causa . For doctors, it consists of: Professors who served 20 years are sometimes presented with a sword (identical model to that of French police commissars). The colours of the various academic fields are daffodil (yellow) for literature and arts, amaranth (purplish red) for science, redcurrant (reddish pink) for medicine, scarlet red for law, and violet (purple) for theology. University rectors, chancellors or presidents wear also specific costumes, which are violet regardless of
2205-410: The academic field in which they graduated. The dress exists in two versions: the petit costume ("small costume") and the grand costume ("great costume"). Both are identical in form, and differ only in the presence or absence of the mortarboard and the repartition of colours on the gown and sash (the other elements of the dress, especially the epitoga, being identical for both): In formal occasions,
2268-440: The batwing or thistle shape, and the other remains thin. To tie one of these requires careful consideration, to ensure the broader end finishes in front of the thinner one. Shown below on the right is one style of pre-tie/ready-tie bow tie. Wearing a ready-tied bow tie at formal occasions requiring a black or white tie dress code is usually considered a faux pas , though at occasions such as Schools Leavers' Proms or ones at which
2331-573: The bow tie is "the embodiment of propriety", an indicator of fastidiousness, and "an instant sign of nerddom in Hollywood movies", but "not the mark of a ladies' man" and "not exactly sexy". He attributes the building of this image to the association of the bow tie with newspaper editors (because of their fastidiousness with words), high-school principals, and bachelor English teachers. Most men, he observes, only wear bow ties with formal dress. There are usually two shapes of self-the bow ties available:
2394-413: The buckle or clasp of an adjustable bow tie. Adjustable bow ties are the standard when the tie is to be worn with a less formal, lie-down collar shirt that obscures the neckband of the tie. "One-size-fits-all" adjustable bow ties are a later invention that helps to moderate production costs. The lavallière is a type of cravat similar to the bow tie that was popularly worn in the 19th century in France. It
2457-402: The centuries-old Spanish custom. The typical Spanish academic dress for doctors is composed by: Bow tie The bow tie or dicky bow / b oʊ / is a type of necktie . A modern bow tie is tied using a common shoelace knot , which is also called the bow knot for that reason. It consists of a ribbon of fabric tied around the collar of a shirt in a symmetrical manner so that
2520-569: The corporate world, donning very conservative tailored suits, with a rise of almost 6 million units in sales. These were often worn with buttoned-up blouses, some with pleats up the front like tuxedo shirts, and accessorized with bow ties that were slightly fuller than the standard bow ties worn by their male counterparts, but typically consisting of the same fabrics, colors, and patterns as men's ties. Russell Smith , style columnist for Toronto's The Globe and Mail , records mixed opinions of bow tie wearers. He observed that bow ties were experiencing
2583-413: The cravat gave rise to the bow tie, which in turn led to the four-in-hand necktie. The most traditional bow ties are usually of a fixed length and are made for a specific size neck. Sizes can vary between approximately 14 inches (36 cm) and 19 inches (48 cm) as with a comparable shirt collar. Fixed-length bow ties are preferred when worn with the most formal wing-collar shirts, so as not to expose
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2646-1115: The extremely economical to the very expensive. In the United States, most Bachelor and master's degree candidates are often presented the " souvenir " version of regalia by their institutions or authorized vendor, which are generally intended for very few wearings and are comparatively very inexpensive. For some doctoral graduates, commencement will be the only time they wear academic regalia, and so they rent their gowns instead of buying them. These rented or hired gowns are often made of inexpensive polyester or other human-made synthetic fibre. In Britain, rented gowns are almost always polyester while Russell cord , silk, or artificial silk gowns are only available when bought. Undergraduate gowns are usually made from cotton or cotton and polyester mix and are relatively inexpensive to encourage students to own them. People who choose to buy their dress may opt for finer fabrics, such as poplin , grosgrain , percale , cotton , wool , cassimere , broadcloth , Russell cord, or corded/ribbed material. For silk, there are
2709-419: The formal occasions but since the 1990s people have started to use them again, mostly in humanities faculties . Furthermore, also students have started to wear gowns and cap in graduation ceremonies (usually for PhD) in some universities. Gowns are traditionally all hemmed with the colours of faculty, which have some variations following the tradition of each atheneum. However the most widely used table of colours
2772-404: The gown and mortarboard's color is at the discretion of the administration. There are several schools which make use of a hood-like design on top of their gowns which bears the school colors. The wearing of traditional academic dress is an important feature of Polish educational ceremonies. Academic dress varies from university to university. In some situations, such as in doctoral exams, the hat
2835-514: The graduate will usually be wearing the costume (as a faculty member at another institution, for example). In either case, the American Council of Education (ACE) allows for the comfort of the wearer, and concedes that lighter materials be used in tropical climates, and heavier materials elsewhere. In addition, it acknowledges cotton poplin, broadcloth, rayon, or silk as appropriate. The materials used for academic dress vary and range from
2898-466: The great number of ancient universities in the country (for example the University of Bologna , University of Pavia , University of Padua , University of Pisa , University of Siena , University of Florence , University of Rome , etc.). Usually gowns are worn only by professors during ceremonies and, in some faculties, during graduations. After the student protests of 1968 many professors in many universities had stopped wearing academical gowns also in
2961-437: The inauguration of newly endowed professorial chairs and inductions to some of the honour and professional societies with university chapters. Academic regalia typically consist of a headgear ( mortarboard , Tudor bonnet , or John Knox cap ), robe, and hood. Until the 1930s, Canadian universities customarily prescribed academic robes for its professors and students at classes and lectures. At the University of Trinity College at
3024-656: The late 1890s. Other universities contain elements of the British and American patterns for some or all of their academic costumes. A classic example is the academic dress of McGill University , whose British origins are evident in the regalia of its degree holders. The distinctive ceremonial regalia of McGill University officials, though, are closer to the American pattern for the master's robe with above-the-elbow, square, slit-cut sleeves. The scarlet, doctor of philosophy (PhD) regalia of McGill can now be worn closed-front, unlike
3087-400: The neck but clips to the collar points. Russell cord Russell cord is a finely corded fabric, generally constructed with a cotton warp and worsted weft (filling). Two or more warp threads are woven together to form the cord, thus the cord lines run warp-wise. Russell cord is visually similar to a very narrow-waled corduroy called pincord, but it is heavier and more sturdy. It
3150-413: The open-front only gown of the University of Cambridge higher doctoral full dress, from which it evolved. Gold strand tassels used in American doctoral regalia are wrapped around McGill's otherwise Tudor-style bonnet or tam. In France , academic dress, also called the toge (from the word toga , an ancient Roman garment), is similar to French judges' court dress, except for its colour, which depends on
3213-514: The participants are unlikely to have had much experience wearing bow ties, it may be commonplace. As shown in the pictures below, another type of ready-tie bow tie is the wooden bow tie , a fairly new product made mostly in the U.S and Canada. Other materials are also in use. An example would be bow ties that are made of natural bird feathers; this too is a fairly new product made mostly in the U.S. and Europe (in Poland). A clip-on does not go around
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#17327797606813276-750: The partly socialist influenced students at that time: The famous slogan "Unter den Talaren – Muff von 1000 Jahren" ( beneath the gowns the fug of 1000 years ) refers not to the old traditions of the Middle Ages, but especially to the Nazi regime and their self-declared "empire of 1000 years". In East Germany, which was a communist one-party state, Talare were abolished by law at about the same time. After East Germany began to dissolve in 1989, several universities, particularly University of Rostock , University of Greifswald , University of Jena , and University of Halle-Wittenberg , resurrected lost traditions including
3339-468: The proper wear of academic dress and not what is worn beneath it, if unseen). In the Commonwealth, gowns are worn open, while in the United States, with a few exceptions, it has become common for gowns to close at the front, as did the original roba . In general, the materials used for academic dress are heavily influenced by the climate where the academic institution is located, or the climate where
3402-708: The quality may be lower. Many institutions whose dress includes gowns of varying lengths prescribe the appropriate length of each gown with reference to parts of the wearer's body (undergraduate gowns at Cambridge, for example, must not reach the knees, whereas BA gowns should reach just beyond them, according to the university's statutes). As such, suppliers of academic dress produce gowns in many different sizes to fit persons of different heights. In Canada , academic regalia are worn by university officials, faculty, students, and honoured guests during Graduation exercises (commonly referred to as Convocation), installations of their presiding officers, and special convocations, such as
3465-497: The robes and gowns with traditional dresses. In 2019, India's University Grants Commission formally issued a circular to all public and private universities to opt for Indian traditional dress made of Indian handloom . Indian universities today prescribe Kurta , Pyajama for male students and Saree or Salwar Suit for women. In Indonesia, academic regalia, also called a toga is only worn in graduation ceremonies. An Indonesian toga generally comes in three pieces of clothing:
3528-540: The same as a graduate receiving a master's degree, except the gown is completely silk, either black or scarlet, with the option to wear a cloth gown. A Doctoral hood is completely silk and the headdress is a black Tudor bonnet, in place of the flat-topped mortarboard worn with bachelor's and master's gowns. Academic dress is rarely worn in New Zealand other than at formal academic events, such as by graduates and faculty at graduation ceremonies and teaching faculty at school prizegivings. Some traditional boys' high schools retain
3591-503: The tradition of the headmaster wearing a gown while leading assemblies. Undergraduates who live at College House at the University of Canterbury must wear academic dress to dinner. It is common for graduands to wear clothing or adornments significant to their culture at their graduation ceremony. For example, it is common to see Māori students wearing a traditional cloak known as korowai or kakahu huruhuru or Pasifika students wearing lavalava , ta'ovala and elaborate lei . Below
3654-401: The two opposite ends form loops. There are generally three types of bow ties: the pre-tied, the clip-on, and the self-tie. Pre-tied bow ties are ties in which the distinctive bow is sewn onto a band that goes around the neck and clips to secure. Some "clip-ons" dispense with the band altogether, instead clipping straight to the collar. The traditional bow tie, consisting of a strip of cloth that
3717-580: The university hierarchy. The gown of the German academic dress is called "Talar" (with the accent on the second "a": talár; from Latin talare which means to the ankles ). It can be traced back to the everyday clothes of the scholars in the Middle Ages. The same word Talar is also used for the robes of Protestant (Lutheran) pastors and rabbis (not for judges or lawyers, their gowns are called "Robe"), although these gowns often differ more or less in cut, length, drapings, and sometimes even in colour (the gowns of
3780-399: The university's mace. Male professors remove their beret when sitting down and put it on when standing up (e.g. to lecture or to address a doctoral candidate during the thesis defence). Female professors may keep the beret on at all times. Academic dress may be completed by a chain of office (for the presiding Rector or Dean) or the insignia of honorary doctorates or royal orders (only worn at
3843-691: The way they could grab a four-in-hand necktie. Bow ties do not readily droop into places where they would get soiled or where they could, whether accidentally or deliberately, strangle the wearer. Clowns sometimes use an oversized bow tie for comic effect. Classical musicians traditionally perform in white tie or black tie ensembles, of which both designs are bow ties. Bow ties are also associated with weddings , mainly because of their almost universal inclusion in traditional formal evening-wear. Bow ties, or slight variations thereof, have also made their way into women's wear, especially business attire. The 1980s saw professional women, especially in law, banking, and
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#17327797606813906-408: The wearer has to tie by hand, is also known as a "self-tie", "tie-it-yourself", or "freestyle" bow tie. Bow ties may be made of any fabric material, but most are made from silk , polyester , cotton , or a mixture of fabrics. Some fabrics (e.g., wool or velvet) are much less common for bow ties than for ordinary four-in-hand neckties. The bow tie originated among Croatian mercenaries during
3969-554: Was a development of academic and clerical dress common throughout the medieval universities of Europe . This overgarment had the practical purpose of keeping a scholar warm while they were sitting, immobile, or studying. Formal or sober clothing is typically worn beneath the gown so, for example, men would often wear a dark suit with a white shirt and a tie , or clerical clothing , military or civil uniform , or national dress , and women would wear equivalent attire. Some older universities, particularly Oxford and Cambridge, have
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