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25-658: The original name was probably Dent d'Hérens , the current name of the nearby Dent d'Hérens which does not overlook the Val d'Hérens . The nearby north face of the Dent d'Hérens is glaciated while the Dent Blanche holds much less snow, it was even called Dent Noire ( Black Tooth ) on the Woerl Atlas of 1842. In fact on older maps, in the area where both summits lie, only the name Weisszahnhorn (from German: White Tooth Peak )

50-570: Is credited as Switzerland's first female parachutist. She had made over 100 mountain descents via parachute before she formed a climbing team with Michel Vaucher , a mountaineer whom she married in 1962. One of Vaucher's most famous climbs was the Matterhorn in July 1965. When she reached the summit on July 14, she became the first woman to have climbed the Matterhorn's north face. She made

75-625: The Dent de Rong or the Dent d'Erins , contributing to the general confusion. The names used today have been the official ones since the completion of the Dufour map in 1862. The Dent d'Hérens is located on the main alpine watershed between the Swiss canton of Valais on the north and the Italian region of Aosta Valley on the south. The northern side of the mountain is part of the drainage basin of

100-586: The Rhone , while the south side is part of the drainage basin of the Po River . The Dent d'Hérens lies 4 km west of the Matterhorn and north of the village of Cervinia on the Italian (south) side. On the Swiss (north) side, the mountain rises above the Zmutt Glacier in the remote valley of Zmutt, 12 km away from the town of Zermatt . Despite its name suggests, the Dent d'Hérens does not overlook

125-529: The Val d'Hérens , as the Dent Blanche lying a few kilometers to the north do. The first ascent of the mountain was by Florence Crauford Grove , William Edward Hall, Reginald Somerled Macdonald, Montagu Woodmass, Melchior Anderegg , Jean-Pierre Cachat and Peter Perren on 12 August 1863. The mountain had been attempted a few days before by Edward Whymper , Jean Antoine Carrel and Luc Meynet but Whymper insisted that they retreat from their planned route up

150-490: The North Face Diagonal or 'Finch Route'. A traversing rather than a more directly ascending line, it avoided the main difficulties of the face; these were tackled two years later by the direct line of the 'Welzenbach Route' (Willo Welzenbach and Eugen Allwein) on 10 August 1925, which may be considered the first ascent of the face. On 5 August 1959 Wilfrid Noyce , together with C. J. Mortlock and Jack Sadler, made

175-467: The ascent in her mountaineering memoir, Climbing Days (1935). The first ascent of the north face is attributed to K. Schneider and F. Singer on 26 and 27 August 1932. They climbed from the left part at the base of the face to the summit. Only on 12 July 1966, Michel and Yvette Vaucher made a direct ascent on the north face. The first winter ascent by the north ridge was completed by P. Crettaz and J. Gaudin on March 2, 1963. A solo winter ascent on

200-591: The ascent with her husband on the 100th anniversary of the first successful ascent of the mountain, and their "surprise climb" was noted to have "stole[n] the spotlight" from two other climbing teams who were planning to climb the Matterhorn at the same time with film crews to broadcast their ascent on live television. An article in the St. Petersburg Times about the Vauchers' success was titled "Swiss Housewife Steals Matterhorn Show", and when interviewed about her plans after

225-588: The canton Valais and Ulrich Almer. They started from the Mountet Hut and arrived at the summit after a difficult 12 hours climbing on a dangerous ridge overlooking the north face. Almer said on the summit, "We are four asses", and the ridge was then named Arête des Quatre Ânes or Viereselsgrat ( Ridge of the Four Asses ). The north ridge was explored in 1899. On 28 August O. G. Jones, F. W. Hill with guides E. Furrer, C. Zurbriggen and J. Vuignier headed to

250-465: The descent down the south-west face. The injured climbers were stuck on the mountain for four days before rescue, with Berbeka later dying in hospital and Deweß and Naef requiring amputations. [REDACTED] Media related to Dent d'Hérens at Wikimedia Commons Yvette Vaucher Yvette Vaucher (née Pilliard ; 11 November 1929 – 30 September 2023) was a Swiss mountaineer and parachutist . Credited as Switzerland's first female parachutist, she

275-891: The descent, Yvette answered, "to go have a hair-do – fast." Yvette and Michel Vaucher made numerous significant climbs in the Alps throughout the 1960s and 1970s, including Piz Badile , the Aiguille de Triolet , the Aiguille du Dru , the Eiger , the Große Zinne and the Grandes Jorasses . In 1966, they made the first direct ascent of the north face of the Dent Blanche . They climbed frequently with Loulou Boulaz and her partner Michel Darbellay . Vaucher and her husband joined an international expedition to Mount Everest headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth in 1971; she intended to become

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300-500: The east face of the unconquered Matterhorn , almost reached the summit with the guides Peter Taugwalder and his son. But after a minor accident, Peter Taugwalder refused to go any higher. Kennedy would finally reach the summit only a few days later, on July 18, 1862 with W. Wigram , J. Croz and J. Konig , despite adverse weather conditions. A route on the east ridge was opened on 11 August 1882 by John Stafford Anderson and G. P. Baker , with guides Alois Pollinger of St. Niklaus in

325-499: The first British ascent of the Welzenbach route. This route was the scene of a large rescue operation on its first winter ascent on 14–17 March 1964. Having climbed the face and bivouacked on the summit, the combined team of German (Gerhard Deweß and Leo Herncarek), Polish (Jerzy Hajdukiewicz and Krzysztof Berbeka) and Swiss (Eckhart Grassmann, Pierre Monkewitz and Dieter Naef) climbers suffered two falls, one of 200 metres, on

350-530: The first woman to reach the summit of Everest. Tensions and conflict were rife within the team, however, and the expedition was ultimately unsuccessful. Vaucher, upset with Dyhrenfurth's leadership, is said to have thrown snowballs at him before leaving the expedition. Vaucher was denied membership of the Swiss Alpine Club until 1979, when she became one of the first women to be made an honorary member. As of 2012, she continued to hike regularly in

375-459: The mountain, Dent de Rong or Dent d'Erins , contributing to the general confusion. The contemporary names are official since the completion of the Dufour map in 1862. The summit of Dent Blanche is an important geographic place as it is the converging point of three ridges. The three valleys separated by them are the Val d'Hérens , Val d'Anniviers and Mattertal . The respective villages of Evolène , Zinal and Zermatt lie approximatively at

400-496: The north face was made for the first time in 1968 by C. Bournissen. Dent d%27H%C3%A9rens The Dent d'Hérens (4,173 m) is a mountain in the Pennine Alps , lying on the border between Italy and Switzerland . The mountain lies a few kilometres west of the Matterhorn . Notable summits along the east ridge are Punta Bianca (3917 m), the prominent Punta Carrel (3841 m) with its subpeak Punta Maquignaz, and

425-462: The north-west face of Dent Blanche rises above the homonym glacier. The four ridges encompass almost exactly the four cardinal directions. The west ridge is named Arête de Ferpècle and the east ridge is named Arête des Quatre Ânes . The Col de la Dent Blanche (3,531 m) lies at the foot of the northern ridge, the Bivouac de la Dent Blanche is located there. The Dent Blanche Hut lies at the foot of

450-740: The same distance of the mountain. The Dent Blanche has four steep faces rising over four glaciers: The north-east face (also called north face ) rises above the Grand Cornier Glacier (part of the Zinal Glacier ), the south-east face rises above the Schönbiel Glacier (part of the Zmutt Glacier ), the south-west face rises above the Manzettes Glacier (part of the Ferpècle Glacier ) and, finally,

475-501: The significant Punta Maria Cristina (3703 m). The Aosta hut (2,781 m) is used for the normal route . The mountain takes its name from the Val d'Hérens , a valley located further to the north. The original name was probably the Dent Blanche , which is now that of the nearby Dent Blanche which overlooks the Val d'Hérens. On older maps, in the area where both summits lie, only the name Weisszahnhorn (from German: White Tooth Peak )

500-454: The southern ridge which is used as the normal route. The grade of the route is AD (III+). The region around Dent Blanche consists of many 4000 metres peaks. The Ober Gabelhorn (west), Dent d'Hérens and Matterhorn (south) are the closest high summits. The first ascent was made via the south ridge (Wandfluegrat), which is the less difficult route to the summit and the actual normal route. On 12 July 1862, T. S. Kennedy , after an attempt on

525-582: The summit but they fell and only Hill survived. He reached alone the summit and a storm forced him to make a bivouac. He could report the news of the fatal accident in Zermatt only two days later. The first ascent of the north north west ridge – described as "one of the last great problems" of the Pennine Alps – was by Dorothy Pilley Richards and I. A. Richards with Joseph Georges and Antoine Georges on 20 July 1928. Dorothy Pilley Richards later wrote up

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550-498: The west ridge because of loose rock. Whymper was annoyed that he had not chosen the line taken up the Grandes Murailles glacier and the south-west flank by Melchior Anderegg on the first ascent and later wrote: The first winter ascent was by M. Piacenza, J. J. Carrell and G. B. Pellisier on 16 January 1910. The 1,300-metre north face was first explored by George Finch , T. G. B. Forster and R. Peto on August 2, 1923, via

575-627: Was also the first woman to climb the Matterhorn 's north face. Yvette Pilliard was born on 11 November 1929 in Vallorbe , Switzerland. She took up rock climbing in 1951 and climbed mainly on the Salève in the French Prealps near Geneva , where she joined a group of women climbers who were regulars on the Salève. In 1955, she moved to Neuchâtel , where she began free fall parachuting. She

600-474: Was given, the French name ( Dent Blanche ) appearing only in 1820. Because cartographers usually made their observations far away from the remoter areas and also because the Dent d'Hérens is sometime hidden behind the Dent Blanche, thus being less visible, the latter received the name. The inhabitants of the lower Val d'Hérens called the Dent d'Hérens, the Dent Blanche , but those of the upper Val d'Hérens called it

625-424: Was given, the French name ( Dent Blanche ) only appearing in 1820. Because cartographers usually made their observations far from the mountainous remote areas and also because the Dent d'Hérens is sometime hidden behind the Dent Blanche thus less visible, the latter received the name. The inhabitants of the lower Val d'Hérens called the current Dent d'Hérens, Dent Blanche , but the ones of the upper Val d'Hérens called

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