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90-572: A furisode ( 振袖 , lit.   ' swinging sleeves ' ) is a style of kimono distinguishable by its long sleeves, which range in length from 85 cm (33 in) for a kofurisode ( 小振袖 , lit.   ' short swinging sleeve ' ) , to 114 cm (45 in) for an ōfurisode ( 大振袖 , lit.   ' large swinging sleeves ' ) . Furisode are the most formal style of kimono worn by young unmarried women in Japan . The sleeves, like all women's kimono, are attached to

180-543: A dōnuki . Kimono that were in better condition could be re-used as an under-kimono, or to create a false underlayer known as a hiyoku . Children also traditionally wore kataire , kimono made of a fancier material in the okumi and upper back. Kimono are traditionally made from a single bolt of fabric known as a tanmono , which is roughly 11.5 metres (38 ft) long and 36 centimetres (14 in) wide for women, and 12.5 metres (41 ft) long and 42 centimetres (17 in) wide for men. The entire bolt

270-403: A broad sash, called an obi , and is commonly worn with accessories such as zōri sandals and tabi socks. Kimono have a set method of construction and are typically made from a long, narrow bolt of cloth known as a tanmono , though Western-style fabric bolts are also sometimes used. There are different types of kimono for men, women, and children, varying based on the occasion,

360-516: A common metaphor for primitiveness. When used by the ancient Chinese literati, the concept of pifa zuoren became a phrase, which held the symbolic of foreign people who were living a barbarous and civilized lifestyle; this concept also became a way to emphasize the customs differences between the Han people and other ethnic minorities and draw the line to distinguish who was were considered as civilized and barbarians. The zuoren thus also became

450-420: A few percent of the bought-new price. In the 1990s and early 2000s, many secondhand kimono shops opened as a result of this. In the early years of the 21st century, the cheaper and simpler yukata became popular with young people. Around 2010, men began wearing kimono again in situations other than their own wedding, and kimono were again promoted and worn as everyday dress by a small minority. Today,

540-501: A garment needs to be found outside (which is in the form of youren closure) to indicate that the power of the Yang aspect is suppressing the Yin aspect, which thus symbolizes the clothing of living people. On the other hand, the zuoren is a representation of the Yin aspect surpassing the Yang aspect, and thus, garments with a zuoren closure became the clothing worn by

630-532: A kimono as part of their profession, and rikishi ( sumo wrestlers) must wear kimonos at all times in public. Despite the small number of people who wear it regularly and its reputation as a complicated garment, the kimono has experienced a number of revivals in previous decades, and is still worn today as fashionable clothing in Japan. The first instances of kimono-like garments in Japan were traditional Chinese clothing introduced to Japan via Chinese envoys in

720-404: A left-to-right closure, following typical Chinese fashions. This convention of wear is still followed today, with a right-to-left closure worn only by the deceased. Clothing used by the upper classes was significantly simpler to don and wear than dress from the following Heian period. Sleeves, while narrow, were long enough to cover the fingers, since status was associated with covering more of

810-434: A leftover from the trailing length of most women's kimono, which had previously been either held up by hand when walking or tied up loosely with a shigoki obi ; though kimono were not worn as trailing towards the end of the 19th century, the excess length of most women's kimono remained, with the hip fold formalised and neatened into the ohashori of the modern day. Kimono have a set method of construction, which allows

900-455: A major influence. From this point onwards, the basic shape of both men's and women's kimono remained largely unchanged. The sleeves of the kosode began to grow in length, especially amongst unmarried women, and the obi became much longer and wider, with various styles of knots coming into fashion, alongside stiffer weaves of material to support them. In the Edo period, the kimono market

990-455: A part of everyday life. In the present day, furisode are by default considered to be formalwear, despite the existence of some yukata (informal summer kimono) with furisode -style sleeves; the furisode is generally worn for formal social functions such as tea ceremonies and weddings. Formality guidelines for kimono have also relaxed, to the point that the divide between wearing furisode and other types of formal kimono

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1080-558: A reference to Hufu and/or to the rule of foreign nationalities. Of note, some non-Chinese ethnicity who adopted Hanfu -style sometimes maintain their left lapels, such as the Khitans in the Liao dynasty . Jiaoling youren ( Chinese : 交領右衽 ) were cross-collars which overlapped on the front and closed on the right side following the youren ( 右衽 ) rule; they can also be described as cross-collar garments closing to

1170-415: A single formal kimono could support the seller comfortably for three months. The kimono industry peaked in 1975, with total sales of 2.8 trillion yen (~£18 billion). The sale of informal brand new kimono was largely neglected. The economic collapse of the 1990s bankrupted much of the kimono industry and ended a number of expensive practices. The rules for how to wear kimono lost their previous hold over

1260-728: A standing collar and closes with a central front closure. Fanling refers to the lapel collars, typically categorized as Hufu-style collars Square collars are referred as fangling (方领). U-shaped collar are known as tanling ( Chinese : 坦领 ; pinyin : tǎnlǐng ; lit. 'flat collar/ open-hearted collar'). Tanling could be used in garments and attire, such as tanling banbi and tanling ruqun . Pianjin ( Chinese : 偏襟 ; pinyin : piānjīn ; lit. 'slanted placket'), also called Pipa -shaped collars and sometimes referred as 'slanted' collar in English, were form of collars which overlaps and closes to

1350-462: A subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are more common in informal men's kimono. Informal men's kimono may also feature slightly brighter colours, such as lighter purples, greens and blues. Sumo wrestlers have occasionally been known to wear quite bright colours, such as fuchsia, in their kimono, which they are required to wear when appearing in public. The fabrics that kimono are made from are classified in two categories within Japan. Gofuku ( 呉服 )

1440-589: A trend that continued throughout the Taishō period, as social occasions and opportunities for leisure increased under the abolition of class distinctions. As Western clothing increased in popularity for men as everyday clothing, the kimono industry further established its own traditions of formal and informal dress for women; this saw the invention of the hōmongi , divisions of tomesode (short-sleeved) kimono for women, and montsuki hakama . The bridal kimono trousseau ( oyomeiri dōgu ), an uncommon practice of

1530-778: A variety of ways, depending on the type of kimono and its original use. When the cloth is worn out, it may be used as fabric for smaller items or to create boroboro (patchwork) kimono (which were also sometimes made for the sake of fashion ). The fact that the pattern pieces of a kimono consist of rectangles, and not complex shapes, make reuse in garments or other items easier. Sashiko are used to hold cloth together and decorate it. The cloth used for patchwork clothing must all be of similar weight , drape , and handle . Formal kimono, made of expensive and thin silk fabrics, would have been re-sewn into children's kimono when they became unusable for adults, as they were typically unsuitable for practical clothing; kimono were shortened, with

1620-635: A wide variety of fibre types, including hemp, linen, silk, Japanese crêpe (known as chirimen ), and figured damask weaves ( rinzu ). Fabrics are typically – for both obi and kimono – woven as tanmono (bolts of narrow width), save for certain types of obi (such as the maru obi ), woven to double-width. Formal kimono are almost always made from silk, with thicker, heavier, stiff or matte fabrics generally being considered informal. Modern kimono are widely available in fabrics considered easier to care for, such as polyester. Kimono linings are typically silk or imitation silk, and often match

1710-470: Is also an important symbol of the Han Chinese ethnicity. The youren closure was eventually adopted by other ethnic minorities and was also spread to neighbouring countries, such as Vietnam, Korea and Japan. Chinese people also wore another form of closure known as zuoren ( Chinese : 左衽 ; lit. 'left lapel'), which generally refers the way garment overlaps on the front, like

1800-410: Is common for women to wear a furisode on their "coming of age day". The furisode originated in the mid-1500s as middle- and upper-class children's clothing, worn by both boys and girls; it was not worn by adults. Initially, the furisode had relatively short sleeves, and was used as everyday wear by those who could afford it. Over time, as the sleeves lengthened and became more exaggerated,

1890-399: Is now one more of age, rather than marital status, with young women past their early twenties generally wearing shorter sleeved kimono instead. Both married and unmarried young women also have the choice to wear other types of formal kimono featuring shorter sleeves to formal events, such as the short sleeved irotomesode , as well as wearing formal Western clothing rather than kimono. It

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1980-620: Is the term used to indicate silk kimono fabrics, composed of the characters go ( 呉 , the Japanese pronunciation of "Wu") , referring to the State of Wu in ancient China where silk weaving technology developed, and fuku ( 服 , meaning "clothing") . The term gofuku is also used to refer to kimono in general within Japan, particularly within the context of the kimono industry, as traditional kimono shops are referred to as either gofukuten ( 呉服店 ) or gofukuya ( 呉服屋 ) – with

2070-455: Is used to make one kimono, and some men's tanmono are woven to be long enough to create a matching haori jacket and juban as well. Kimono linings are made from bolts of the same width. Some custom bolts of fabric are produced for especially tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, who must have kimono custom-made by either joining multiple bolts, weaving custom-width fabric, or using non-standard size fabric. For children, in

2160-506: The paofu as a general term, as well as Chinese jackets must typically cover the right part of their garment. Styles of garments which overlap at the front and close to the right side are known as youren ( Chinese : 右衽 ; lit. 'right lapel'). The youren closure is a style which originated in China and can be traced back to the Shang dynasty . The youren

2250-418: The dōura and the entirety of the hakkake – are known as dō-bitoe ( lit.   ' chest-single-layer ' ) kimono. Some fully lined kimono do not have a separate lower and upper lining, and are instead lined with solid panels on the okumi , the maemigoro and the ushiromigoro . Garment collars in hanfu#Youren (right lapel) Chinese robes , such as the shenyi and

2340-433: The furisode became a style of kimono worn mostly to special occasions. According to one 17th century text, boys could wear furisode until their 18th year, or until they went through their coming-of-age ceremony , which usually occurred in late adolescence. Girls were supposed to cease wearing the furisode upon marriage, or upon reaching their 20th year. Initially, furisode did not differ noticeably between

2430-402: The okumi taken off and the collar re-sewn to create haori , or were simply cut at the waist to create a side-tying jacket. After marriage or a certain age, young women would shorten the sleeves of their kimono; the excess fabric would be used as a furoshiki (wrapping cloth), could be used to lengthen the kimono at the waist, or could be used to create a patchwork undergarment known as

2520-523: The youren closure, but instead closes on the left side. According to the Shuowen Jiezi 《 說文解字 》, a form of paofu , known as xi ( 襲 ), was a robe with a zuoren closure while the coat known as zhe ( 褶 ; sometimes also referred as xi ), typically used as part of the kuzhe , was also a xi ( 襲 ) according to the Shiming . The use of zuoren , however,

2610-529: The zuoren -style according to what was recorded in ancient Chinese texts, such as the Qiang . As a result, the traditional way to distinguish between clothing of the "Barbarian" (i.e. non-Han Chinese), Hufu , and Chinese clothing, hanfu , was typically by looking at the direction of the collar. This can also be found in the Analects where Confucius himself praised Guan Zhong for preventing

2700-527: The Azuchi–Momoyama period (1568–1600), the decoration of the kosode developed further, with bolder designs and flashy colours becoming popular. By this time, separate lower-body garments, such as the mō and hakama , were almost never worn, allowing full-length patterns to be seen. During the Edo period (1603–1867 CE), both Japan's culture and economy developed significantly. A particular factor in

2790-727: The Donghu , the Wuhu , and the foreigners from Central Asia, such as the Sogdians , and the Mongols, at different point in time. Yuanling can be overlapping to the right or closing at the front in the duijin manner. Yuanling could be used in garments and attire, such as yuanlingshan , yuanlingpao , panling lanshan , and wulingshan (无领衫). High standing collars in the Ming dynasty are referred as shuling (竖领) or liling (立领). They appeared by

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2880-571: The Great Kantō Earthquake of 1923, cheap, informal and ready-to-wear meisen kimono, woven from raw and waste silk threads unsuitable for other uses, became highly popular, following the loss of many people's possessions. By 1930, ready-to-wear meisen kimono had become highly popular for their bright, seasonally changing designs , many of which took inspiration from the Art Deco movement. Meisen kimono were usually dyed using

2970-587: The Kofun period (300–538 CE; the first part of the Yamato period), through immigration between the two countries and envoys to the Tang dynasty court leading to Chinese styles of dress, appearance, and culture becoming extremely popular in Japanese court society. The Imperial Japanese court quickly adopted Chinese styles of dress and clothing, with evidence of the oldest samples of shibori tie-dyed fabric stored at

3060-466: The Meiji period , the opening of Japan to Western trade after the enclosure of the Edo period led to a drive towards Western dress as a sign of "modernity". After an edict by Emperor Meiji , policemen, railroad workers and teachers moved to wearing Western clothing within their job roles, with the adoption of Western clothing by men in Japan happening at a much greater pace than by women. Initiatives such as

3150-513: The Shōsōin Temple being of Chinese origin, due to the limitations of Japan's ability to produce the fabrics at the time. As early as the 4th century CE, images of priestess-queens and tribal chiefs in Japan depicted figures wearing clothing similar that of Han dynasty China. In 718 CE, the Yoro clothing code was instituted, which stipulated that all robes had to be overlapped at the front with

3240-573: The Victoria and Albert museum staged an exhibition called Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk , a "collection of around 300 garments, accessories, paintings, prints, photographs and film clips" relating to the history of the Kimono from the 17th century to the present. The final instalment of the exhibition's four-year international tour was at the V&;A Dundee in 2024. Both kimono and obi are made from

3330-459: The deceased . It was therefore a taboo in Chinese clothing culture for a living person to wear clothing with a zuoren closure. There are exceptions in which living Han Chinese would wear clothing with a zuoren closure. For example, in some areas (such as Northern Hebei ) in the 10th century, some ethnic Han Chinese could be found wearing left-lapel clothing. It was also common for

3420-404: The ikat ( kasuri ) technique of dyeing, where either warp or both warp and weft threads (known as heiyō-gasuri ) were dyed using a stencil pattern before weaving. It was during the Taishō period that the modern formalisation of kimono and kimono types began to emerge. The Meiji period had seen the slow introduction of kimono types that mediated between the informal and the most formal,

3510-447: The mо̄  [ ja ] ( 裳 ) grew too narrow to wrap all the way around and became a trapezoidal pleated train . Hakama (trousers) became longer than the legs and also trailed behind the wearer. During the later Heian period, various clothing edicts reduced the number of layers a woman could wear, leading to the kosode ( lit.   ' small sleeve ' ) garment—previously considered underwear—becoming outerwear by

3600-548: The "proper" kitsuke of upper-class women. However, kitsuke standards were still relatively informal, and would not become formalised until after World War II. While kimono were no longer common wear for men, they remained everyday wear for Japanese women until World War II (1940–1945). Though the Taishō period had seen a number of invented traditions, standards of kitsuke (wearing kimono) were still not as formalised in this time, with creases, uneven ohashori and crooked obi still deemed acceptable. During

3690-513: The 1930s. Many kimono motifs are seasonal , and denote the season in which the kimono can be worn; however, some motifs have no season and can be worn all-year round. Others, such as the combination of pine, plum and bamboo – a grouping referred to as the Three Friends of Winter – are auspicious, and thus worn to formal occasions for the entire year. Motifs seen on yukata are commonly seasonal motifs worn out of season, either to denote

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3780-556: The Han Chinese were supposed to use zuoren was when they dressed their deceased. This funeral practice was rooted in ancient Chinese beliefs; especially in the Yin and Yang theory, where it is believed that the left side is the Yang and stands for life whereas the right side is the Yin which stands for death. Therefore, according to the Yin and Yang theory, the left lapel of

3870-578: The Han Chinese women to adopt left lapel under the reign of foreign nationalities, such as in the Yuan dynasty . The practice of wearing the zuoren also continued in some areas of the Ming dynasty despite being a Han Chinese-ruled dynasty which is an atypical feature. The zuoren closure was also associated with the clothing of non-Han Chinese, ethnic minorities, and foreigners in ancient times. Some ethnic minorities generally had their clothing closing in

3960-527: The Heian period (794–1185), when Japan's nobility embraced a distinctive style of clothing. Formerly the most common Japanese garment, the kimono has fallen out of favor and is rarely worn as everyday dress now. They are most often seen at summer festivals, where people frequently wear the yukata , the most informal type of kimono. More formal types are worn to funerals, weddings, graduations, and other formal events. Geisha and maiko are required to wear

4050-525: The Meiji period, stores only retailing futomono kimono became less profitable in the face of cheaper everyday Western clothing, and eventually went out of business, leaving only gofuku stores to sell kimono – leading to kimono shops becoming known only as gofukuya today. Kimono can readily be resized, or unpicked back into tanmono (bolt) lengths. Outside of being re-woven into new fabrics, worn-out kimono have historically been recycled in

4140-507: The Tokyo Women's & Children's Wear Manufacturers' Association ( 東京婦人子供服組合 ) promoted Western dress as everyday clothing. Western clothing quickly became standard issue as army uniform for men and school uniform for boys, and between 1920 and 1930, the fuku sailor outfit replaced the kimono and undivided hakama as school uniform for girls. However, kimono still remained popular as an item of everyday fashion; following

4230-467: The additional character of ya ( 屋 ) meaning 'shop'. Cotton and hemp fabrics are referred to generally as futomono ( 太物 ) , meaning "thick materials", with both cotton and hemp yarns being considerably thicker than silk yarns used for weaving. Cotton kimono are specifically referred to in the context of materials as momenfuku ( 木綿服 ) , "cotton clothes", whereas hemp kimono are known as asafuku ( 麻服 ) , "hemp clothes", in Japanese, with

4320-414: The aristocracy and samurai classes, shown by their brightly-coloured kimono that utilised expensive production techniques, such as hand-painted dyework. Rinzu , a damask fabric, also became the preferred material for kimono at this time, replacing the previously-popular nerinuki plain-weave silk, which had been used to create tsujigahana . In response to the increasing material wealth of

4410-480: The body of the kimono only at the shoulder, with the inner edge left open past the shoulder. This both allows the underkimono ( juban ) to show when worn, and also allows the obi to be tied around the body above the hips. Furisode , like other formal kimono, are mostly made from silk, and are decorated in bright colours to reflect the wearer's youth. Furisode are often either rented or bought by parents for their daughters to wear on Coming of Age Day in

4500-599: The body. During the Heian period (794–1193 CE), Japan stopped sending envoys to the Chinese dynastic courts. This prevented Chinese-imported goods—including clothing—from entering the Imperial Palace . This also prevented dissemination to the upper classes, who were the main arbiters of traditional Japanese culture at the time, and the only people allowed to wear such clothing. The ensuing cultural vacuum facilitated

4590-451: The character for hemp – asa ( 麻 ) – also being used to refer widely to hemp, linen and ramie kimono fabrics. Until the end of the Edo period, the tailoring of both gofuku and futomono fabrics was separated, with silk kimono handled at shops known as gofuku dana , and kimono of other fibres sold at shops known as futomono dana . Stores that handled all types of fabric were known as gofuku futomono dana , though after

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4680-452: The child grew, and are mostly only seen today on the kimono of apprentice geisha in Kyoto, as apprentices previously began their training at a young age, requiring tucks to be let out as they grew. In the present day, apprentices begin their training in their late teenage years, and the tucks are retained merely as an anachronism. Though adult women also retained a 'tuck' at the hip, this was

4770-449: The coming season. Though men's kimono historically displayed just as much decoration and variety as women's kimono, in the modern era, the principal distinction of men's kimono in terms of seasonality and occasion is the fabric. The typical men's kimono is a subdued, dark colour; black, dark blues, greens and browns are common. Fabrics are usually matte, in contrast to the occasional satin weaves of some women's kimono. Some men's kimono have

4860-415: The cross-collars which closes on the left side instead of the right side. They were typically used by non-Han Chinese ethnicities in ancient China, but were also adopted by the Han Chinese in some circumstances, e.g. when they were ruled by non-Han Chinese rulers. Han Chinese women were also found sometimes found in the paintings of the Ming dynasty , which is an atypical feature. They were also used to dress

4950-571: The deceased of the Han Chinese. Collars which runs parallel and straight at the front are called duijin (对襟). Garments with duijin collars can either be closed at the centre front or be left opened in the front. They could be found with or without a high collar depending on the time period. Duijin could be used in garments and attire, such as beizi , banbi , and beixin . Round collars are called yuanling (圆领) or panling (盘领). In ancient China, clothing with round collars were typically introduced and/or influenced by foreign ethnicities, such as

5040-498: The development of a Japanese culture independent from Chinese fashions. Elements previously lifted from the Tang Dynastic courts developed independently into what is known literally as "national culture" or " kokufū culture" ( 国風文化 , kokufū-bunka ) . The term is used to refer to Heian-period Japanese culture, particularly that of the upper classes. Women's clothing in the imperial palace became increasingly stylised in

5130-436: The development of the Edo period was the early Genroku period (1688–1704 CE), wherein " Genroku culture " – luxurious displays of wealth and increased patronage of the arts – led to the further development of many art forms, including those of clothing. Genroku culture was led by the growing and increasingly-powerful merchant classes ( chōnin ), whose clothing was representative of their increasing economic power and rivaled

5220-439: The early 1900s, shorter lengths were used, and sometimes the body of the kimono was made only a single cloth width wide ( hitotsumi ). Tucks were also used to take in the garment; an outwards-facing pleat at each shoulder ( kata-nue-age ) and a kolpos -like overfold at the hip ( koshi-nue-age ), so that the child appeared to be wearing a sleeveless vest of the same fabric over their garment. These sewn tucks were let out as

5310-413: The early Meiji period to Western trade, a number of materials and techniques – such as wool and the use of synthetic dyestuffs – became popular, with casual wool kimono being relatively common in pre-1960s Japan; the use of safflower dye ( beni ) for silk linings fabrics (known as momi ; literally, "red silk") was also common in pre-1960s Japan, making kimono from this era easily identifiable. During

5400-415: The entire garment to be taken apart, cleaned and resewn easily. As the seam allowance on nearly every panel features two selvedges that will not fray, the woven edges of the fabric bolt are retained when the kimono is sewn, leading to large and often uneven seam allowances; unlike Western clothing, the seam allowances are not trimmed down, allowing for a kimono to be resewn to different measurements without

5490-497: The entire industry, and formerly-expensive traditions such as bridal kimono trousseaus generally disappeared, and when still given, were much less extensive. It was during this time that it became acceptable and even preferred for women to wear Western dress to ceremonial occasions like weddings and funerals. Many women had dozens or even hundreds of kimono, mostly unworn, in their homes; a secondhand kimono, even if unworn, would sell for about 500 yen (less than £3.50; about US$ 5),

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5580-489: The fabric fraying at the seams. This was also used to prolong the life of the garment by reversing the sleeves (hiding the worn cuff hem in the shoulder seam) or the back panels (swapping the high-stress center seam and the low-stress sides), like the European custom of side-to-middling or end-to-middling bedsheets. Historically, kimono were taken apart entirely to be washed – a process known as arai-hari . Once cleaned,

5670-408: The fabric would be resewn by hand; this process, though necessary in previous centuries, is uncommon in modern-day Japan, as it is relatively expensive. Despite the expense of hand-sewing, however, some modern kimono, including silk kimono and all formal kimono, are still hand-sewn entirely; even machine-sewn kimono require some degree of hand-sewing, particularly in finishing the collar, the hem, and

5760-409: The formal jūnihitoe , with some elements being abandoned by both male and female courtiers, such as the round-necked and tube-sleeved chun ju jacket worn by both genders in the early 7th century. Others, such as the wrapped front robes also worn by men and women, were kept. Some elements, such as the mo skirt worn by women, continued to in a reduced capacity, worn only to formal occasions;

5850-461: The formalisation. ). Kimono were promoted as essential for ceremonial occasions; for instance, the expensive furisode worn by young women for Seijinshiki was deemed a necessity. Bridal trousseaus containing tens of kimono of every possible subtype were also promoted as de rigueur , and parents felt obliged to provide kimono trousseaus that cost up to 10 million yen (~£70,000), which were displayed and inspected publicly as part of

5940-690: The kimono, and an increasingly tubular figure was promoted as the ideal for women in kimono. The kimono-retail industry also promoted a sharp distinction between Japanese and Western clothes; for instance, wearing Western shoes with Japanese clothing (while common in the Taishō period) was codified as improper; these rules on proper dressing are often described in Japanese using the English phrase "Time, Place, and Occasion" (TPO). As neither Japanese men or women commonly wore kimono, having grown up under wartime auspices, commercial kitsuke schools were set up to teach women how to don kimono. Men in this period rarely wore kimono, and menswear thus escaped most of

6030-491: The late Ming dynasty. There were two main forms of high standing collars garments based on their types of lapels and closure. Clothing with shuling dajin (竖领大襟), also called liling dajin or shuling xiejin or liling xiejin, has a standing collar and a large lapel which closes on the right. The dajin placket is also called xiejin ( Chinese : 斜襟 ; pinyin : xiéjīn ; lit. 'slanted placket'). Clothing with shuling duijin (or liling (or shuling) duijin) has

6120-519: The left side, was associated with the clothing customs of the northern nomadic ethnic groups who were considered as barbarians. From the standpoint of the Huaxia culture, pifa was a way to reject refined culture and being turned into a barbarian. By the Han dynasty , since Confucius himself was the first person to use the phrase pifa zuoren to refer to Non-Zhou dynasty people, this phrase became

6210-415: The lining, if present. Hand-sewn kimono are usually sewn with a single running stitch roughly 3 millimetres (0.12 in) to 4 millimetres (0.16 in) long, with stitches growing shorter around the collar area for strength. Kimono seams, instead of being pressed entirely flat, are pressed to have a 'lip' of roughly 2 millimetres (0.079 in) (known as the kise ) pressed over each seam. This disguises

6300-437: The majority of people in Japan wear Western clothing as everyday attire, and are most likely to wear kimono either to formal occasions such as wedding ceremonies and funerals, or to summer events, where the standard kimono is the easy-to-wear, single-layer cotton yukata . In 2019, the mayor of Kyoto announced that his staff were working to register "Kimono Culture" on UNESCO 's intangible cultural heritage list. In 2020,

6390-512: The merchant classes, the Tokugawa shogunate issued a number of sumptuary laws on kimono for the lower classes, prohibiting the use of purple or red fabric, gold embroidery, and the use of intricately dyed shibori patterns. As a result, a school of aesthetic thought known as Iki developed. They valued and prioritised the display of wealth through an almost mundane appearance, and the concept of kimono design and wear continues to this day as

6480-403: The more generic term wakiake ("open-sided"). Kimono The kimono ( きもの/ 着物 , lit.   ' thing to wear ' ) is a traditional Japanese garment and the national dress of Japan . The kimono is a wrapped-front garment with square sleeves and a rectangular body, and is worn left side wrapped over right , unless the wearer is deceased. The kimono is traditionally worn with

6570-439: The most formal kimono, this is more of a general suggestion than a strict rule. Formal kimono are typically decorated with dyed patterns, commonly found along the hemline. These patterns may feature embroidery in parts, couched gold and silver thread, and/or gold and silver foil. The layout of motifs can denote a kimono's age, with patterns that mirror along the vertical back seam ( ryōzuma ) being typical for kimono made before

6660-456: The right side with a big lapel. This form of collar was influenced by the Manchu clothing . The Manchu's front overlap opening was a Manchu innovation; their clothing was closed with buttons on the centre front of the neck, right clavicle, and under the right arm along the right seams. The Manchu overlap was more shaped like an S-curved overlap; it ran straight to the right of the centre-front of

6750-485: The right side, or y-shaped collar. The jiaoling youren started to be worn in the Shang dynasty in China. This form of collar eventually became one of the major symbols of the Sino Kingdoms and eventually spread throughout Asia. Garments and attire which used the jiaoling youren collar include: shenyi , jiaolingpao , mianfu , pienfu , diyi , dahu , and tieli . Jiaoling zouren refers to

6840-407: The season , the wearer's age, and – less commonly in the modern day – the wearer's marital status. Despite the kimono's reputation as a formal and difficult-to-wear garment, there are types of kimono suitable for both formal and informal occasions. The way a person wears their kimono is known as kitsuke ( 着付け , lit.   ' dressing ' ) . The history of the kimono can be tracked back to

6930-431: The seasons. Motifs typically represent the flora, fauna, landscape or culture of Japan; one such example is cherry blossoms , a famously seasonal motif worn in spring until just before the actual cherry blossoms begin to bloom, it being considered unlucky to try and 'compete' with the cherries. Motifs are typically worn a few weeks before the official 'start' of any given season, as it is considered fashionable to anticipate

7020-548: The second half of the 20th century, the Japanese economy boomed, and silk became cheaper, making it possible for the average family to afford silk kimono. The kimono retail industry had developed an elaborate codification of rules for kimono-wearing, with types of kimono, levels of formality, and rules on seasonality, which intensified after the war; there had previously been rules about kimono-wearing, but these were not rigidly codified and varied by region and class. Formalisation sought perfection, with no creases or unevenness in

7110-434: The sexes, but fabric designs started to become more gendered in the 19th century. In the 20th century, furisode became restricted to women and girls only, as part of the increasing gender-specificity of children's clothing that developed in the wake of Western influence. As the furisode became increasingly associated with young adult women, the term was removed from the shorter-sleeved children's garment, which acquired

7200-420: The spring just passed or the desire for cooler autumn or winter temperatures. Colour also contributes to the seasonality of kimono, with some seasons – such as autumn – generally favouring warmer, darker colours over lighter, cooler ones. A number of different guides on seasonal kimono motifs exist, with some guides – such as those for tea ceremony in particular – being especially stringent on their reflection of

7290-408: The stitches, as hand-sewn kimono are not tightly sewn, rendering the stitches visible if pressed entirely flat. A number of terms are used to refer to the different parts of a kimono. Kimono that are lined are known as awase kimono, whereas unlined kimono are known as hitoe kimono; partially lined kimono – with lining only at the sleeve cuff, the back of the sleeve, the lower chest portion of

7380-511: The time of the Muromachi period (1336–1573 CE). Originally worn with hakama , the kosode began to be held closed with a small belt known as an obi instead. The kosode resembled a modern kimono, though at this time the sleeves were sewn shut at the back and were smaller in width (shoulder seam to cuff) than the body of the garment. During the Sengoku period (1467–1615) and

7470-739: The top fabric in fibre type, though the lining of some casual silk kimono may be cotton, wool or linen. Kimono fabrics are often decorated, sometimes by hand, before construction. Customarily, kimono with woven patterns are considered more informal, though for obi , the reverse is true, with obi featuring dyed patterns being less formal than obi with woven patterns. Though kimono fabrics with woven patterns are typically not especially heavy and can be lightweight, obi fabrics with woven patterns are often very heavy, with many formal obi being made from thickly-woven brocade. Traditionally, woven kimono are paired with obi that are decorated with dyed patterns, and vice versa. However, for all but

7560-431: The upper classes in the Edo period, also became common throughout the middle classes; traditions of kimono bridalwear for marriage ceremonies were also codified in this time, which resembled the bridalwear of samurai-class women. Standards of kitsuke at this time began to slowly graduate to a more formalised, neatened appearance, with a flat, uniform ohashori and a smooth, uncreased obi , which also resembled

7650-420: The war, kimono factories shut down, and the government encouraged people to wear monpe (also romanised as mompe ) – trousers constructed from old kimono – instead. Fibres such as rayon became widespread during WWII, being inexpensive to produce and cheap to buy, and typically featured printed designs. Cloth rationing persisted until 1951, so most kimono were made at home from repurposed fabrics. In

7740-444: The weakened Zhou dynasty from becoming barbarians: "But for Guan Zhong, we should now be wearing our hair unbound [pifa], and the lapels of our coats buttoning on the left side [zuoren]. [微管仲，吾其被髮左衽矣]." Based on Confucius' sayings, pifa zuoren ( simplified Chinese : 被发左衽 ; traditional Chinese : 被髮左衽 ; pinyin : bèifà zuǒrèn ; lit. 'unbound hair left lapel'), bound hair and coats which closed on

7830-405: The wedding, including being transported in transparent trucks. By the 1970s, formal kimono formed the vast majority of kimono sales. Kimono retailers, due to the pricing structure of brand new kimono, had developed a relative monopoly on not only prices but also a perception of kimono knowledge, allowing them to dictate prices and heavily promote more formal (and expensive) purchases, as selling

7920-598: The year they turn 20. In previous decades, in particular before WWII , only young unmarried women wore furisode , as marriage signified the end to a woman's single youth and the beginning of her transition into married life; higher rates of marriage at a younger age left few women unmarried past their mid-twenties, meaning that furisode were never seen on older unmarried women. Though furisode were worn to formal events, informal furisode – sometimes featuring shorter sleeves and more subdued decoration – did exist, and would have been worn to less formal events, or as

8010-422: Was divided into craftspeople, who made the tanmono and accessories, tonya , or wholesalers, and retailers. In 1869, the social class system was abolished, and with them, class-specific sumptuary laws. Kimono with formerly-restricted elements, like red and purple colours, became popular, particularly with the advent of synthetic dyestuffs such as mauvine . Following the opening of Japan's borders in

8100-459: Was typically associated with funeral practices. This can also be found in the chapter Sang da ji ( 喪 大 記 ) of the Liji ( 禮 記 ): "At both the dressings the sacrificial robes were not placed below the others. They were all placed with the lapel to lie on the left side. The bands were tied firmly, and not in a bow-knot [小斂大斂，祭服不倒，皆左衽結絞不紐]." According to ancient Chinese beliefs, the only moment

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