A khalat ( Persian , from Arabic : خلعت , romanized : khilat ), is a loose, long-sleeved outer silk or cotton robe common in Central Asia and South Asia and worn both by men and women, although in differing styles.
16-709: Historically, richly adorned khalats have been used as robes of honour . Khilat was also used to denote the ceremony of awarding the honorific robe. Such social aspects of clothing have been known in many societies. By the 19th century in British India the word khilat had come to mean any gift of money or goods the Government of India awarded in return for service from tributary princes, khans and tribal leaders. Central Asian khalats can be thin, decorative garments or thick, full-length robes that provide good protection from exposure to heat, light, and cold. Khilat
32-451: A tashrīf . The practice remained very common until the early 20th century; in 19th-century India, the bestowal gift or khillaut ( khelat , khilut , or killut ) might comprise from five up to 101 articles of clothing. As the practice spread in the Muslim world , and robes began to be given for every conceivable occasion, they also acquired distinct names. Thus for example
48-550: A ceremony of appointment to a public post, or as a token of confirmation or acceptance of vassalage of a subordinate ruler. They were usually produced in government factories and decorated with the inscribed bands known as ṭirāz . The endowment of garments as a mark of favor is an ancient Middle Eastern tradition, recorded in sources such as the Hebrew Bible and Herodotus . In the Islamic world, Muhammad himself set
64-578: A government office, and in 1399 became inspector of markets for Cairo and northern Egypt. This post he soon gave up to become a preacher at the Mosque of 'Amr ibn al 'As , president of the al-Hakim Mosque , and a lecturer on tradition. In 1408, he went to Damascus to become inspector of the Qalanisryya and lecturer. Later, he retired into private life at Cairo. In 1430, he again went on Hajj with his family and travelled for some five years. His learning
80-489: A precedent when he removed his cloak ( burda ) and gave it to Ka'b ibn Zuhayr in recognition of a poem praising him. Indeed, the term khilʿa "denotes the action of removing one's garment in order to give it to someone". The practice of awarding robes of honour appears in the Abbasid Caliphate , where it became such a regular feature of government that ceremonies of bestowal occurred almost every day, and
96-399: Is a stub . You can help Misplaced Pages by expanding it . Robe of honour A robe of honour ( Arabic : خلعة , romanized : khilʿa , plural khilaʿ , or [ تشريف] Error: {{Lang}}: invalid parameter: |3= ( help ) , pl. tashārif or tashrīfāt ) were rich garments given by medieval and early modern Islamic rulers to subjects as tokens of honour, often as part of
112-854: Is one of many borrowings in Russian , where khalat has become a generic term for various robes. In Romanian the word is halat is used, meaning dressing gown , bathrobe , smock , camouflage cloak , etc. A similar garment is known as Chapan in Turkic. The khalat ( Yiddish : כלאַט , romanized : khlat ) was also worn by Ashkenazi Jewish men in Eastern Europe before the early 20th century. These were long, close-fitting coats with shawl collars and pockets. Khlats were cotton garments meant for everyday wear; more luxurious versions were made of velvet or silk and worn for Shabbat or other holidays . This clothing -related article
128-429: The khilaʿ al-wizāra ('robe of the vizierate ') would be given on the appointment to the vizierate, while the khilaʿ al-ʿazl ('robe of dismissal') upon an—honourable—dismissal, the khilaʿ al-kudūm might be given to an arriving guest, while the khilaʿ al-safar would to a departing guest, etc. Sums of money or other valuables were also given as part of the bestowal ceremony, or, in some cases, in lieu of
144-627: The Zahiri Revolt , and his vocal support and sympathy with that revolt against the Mamluks likely cost him higher administrative and clerical positions with the Mamluk regime. The name Maqrizi was an attribution to a quarter of the city of Baalbek , from where his paternal grandparents hailed. Maqrizi confessed to his contemporaries that he believed that he was related to the Fatimids through
160-642: The 10th forefather although he confessed to some of his close friends that he can trace his ancestry to al-Mu‘izz li-Dīn Allāh – first Fatimid caliph in Egypt and the founder of al-Qahirah – and even to Ali ibn Abi Talib . He was trained in the Hanafite school of law. Later, he switched to the Shafi'ite school and finally to the Zahirite school. Maqrizi studied theology under one of the primary masterminds behind
176-477: The members of the caliph's court became known as 'those who wear the khilʿa ' ( aṣḥāb al-khilʿa ). The bestowal of garments became a fixed part of any investment into office, from that of a governor to the heir-apparent to the throne. As important court occasions, these events were often commemorated by poets and recorded by historians. In Egypt in the Fatimid Caliphate , the practice spread to
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#1732772075531192-563: The robe. In the Ottoman Empire , such a sum was known as khilʿet behā ('price of khilʿa '); most commonly this referred to the donativum received by the Janissaries on the accession of a new sultan . Al-Maqrizi Al-Maqrīzī ( Arabic : المقريزي , full name Taqī al-Dīn Abū al-'Abbās Aḥmad ibn 'Alī ibn 'Abd al-Qādir ibn Muḥammad al-Maqrīzī , تقي الدين أحمد بن علي بن عبد القادر بن محمد المقريزي ; 1364–1442)
208-647: The robes of honour was the responsibility of the Keeper of the Privy Purse ( nāẓir al-khāṣṣ ), who supervised the Great Treasury ( al-khizāna al-kubra ), where the garments were stored. Al-Maqrizi provides a detailed description of the garments worn by the various classes and ranks; in addition, Mamluk practice included the bestowal of arms or even a fully outfitted horse from the Sultan's own stables as
224-464: The son of al-Muizz . Ibn Hajar preserves the most memorable account: his father, as they entered the al-Hakim Mosque one day, told him "My son, you are entering the mosque of your ancestor." However, his father also instructed al-Maqrizi not to reveal this information to anyone he could not trust; Walker concludes: In 1385, he went on the Islamic pilgrimage, the Hajj . For some time he was secretary in
240-511: The wealthy upper middle classes, who began conferring robes of honor on friends and relatives, in emulation of the aristocracy. Later, under the Mamluk Sultanate , the system was standardized into a system of classes reflecting the divisions of Mameluke society, each with its own ranks: the military ( arbāb al-suyūf ), the civilian bureaucracy ( arbāb al-aqlām ), and the religious scholars ( al-ʿulamāʾ ). The distribution of
256-595: Was a medieval Egyptian historian and biographer during the Mamluk era , known for his interest in the Fatimid era , and the earlier periods of Egyptian history. He is recognized as the most influential historian of premodern Egypt. A direct student of Ibn Khaldun , al-Maqrīzī was born in Cairo to a family of Syrian origin that had recently relocated from Damascus . When he presents himself in his books he usually stops at
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